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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographipues 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


Q 


D 


Q 


n 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endomi.iag^e 

□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pellicul6e 

□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

iloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue 

ere  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
En 


Coloured  r<ates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


□    Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6 


avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omiued  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  l-^rsque  cela  4tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  tSt6  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommay6es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  ddcolor^es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I  Pages  damaged/ 

I      I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~7|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      j  Showthrough/ 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in6gale  de  I'impression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 

□    Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  prrtiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6td  film6es  A  nouveau  de  fapon  it 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


t 


24X 


26X 


30X 


28X 


32X 


B 


Tha  copy  filmnd  h«r«  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  o*narosity  of; 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archival  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  inr.agas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  consldaring  tha  condition  and  laglblllty 
of  tha  original  copy  and  In  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spaclflcations. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  fllniad 
baglnning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  Impras- 
slon,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  approprlata.  All 
othar  original  copias  ara  fiimad  baglnning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  Illustratad  impras- 
sion,  and  ending  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  Illustratad  imprasslon. 


Tha  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  —^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  In  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bo:tom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'examplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grAce  A  la 
ginirositA  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Las  images  suivantas  ont  AtA  raprodultes  avec  le 
plus  grand  soln,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  st 
da  la  nettetA  de  I'exemplaira  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmaga. 

Les  exemplairas  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprlmAe  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  termlnant  soit  par  fa 
darnlAre  paga  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  flimAs  an  commandant  par  la 
premiere  paga  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  paga  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  6ue 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grard  pour  Atre 
raproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmi  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

S 

6 

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TRAVELS 

IN  THE 


GEEAT   WESTERN   PRAIRIES 

THE   AJiAlll'AC    AND   ROCKY  ilIOUXTALNS, 

AND  IN  THE 

OREGON     TERRITORY. 


BY    THOMAS    J.    FARNHAM. 


PREFACE. 

It  \"n»  customary,  in  old  times,  for  till  Authors  - 
to  enter  the  world  of  lellcrs  on  tlieir  \uinn,  and 
with    uncovered    head    and  u  lx)w  of  ehiirniin;^'  i 
meekness,  write  themselves  some  hrainlcsd  dolt's  j 
"  most     hunihlc    and    obedient     scrvaut."      In 
later  days,  the    Bamc  feigned   suhscrvieney  has 
fihown  itself   m  other  forms.     One  desires   tiiat 
Bomc  other  will  kindly  pardon  the  weakness  and 
imhce,ility of  his  production;  for,  although  these  i 
faults  may  exist  in  his  book,  lie  wrote  under  "  most '! 
adverse  cbcumstances,"  as  the  crying  of  a  hoixftil 
child— the  quarrels  of  his  [Kiultry,  and  utlicr  dis. 
asters  of  the  season. 

Anotlicr,  clothed  with  the  mantle  of  the  sweet. 
CBt  Bclf.coniplac<'n<'y,  looks  out  from  his  Preface 
like  a  sun-dog  on  the  morning  shy,  and  merely 
shinrs  uul  llir  query,  "  Am  I  nnl  a  .Sim  .'"  while 
he  wiCUrCB  a  retreat  for  his  solf-love,  in  case  any 
body  should  supjKjse  he  ever  indulged  s>uch  a  i>iu- 
gular  sentiment. 

Another  few  of  our  literary  shades  make  no  jiie. 
tensions  to  niDdesty.  Tliey  hold  out  to  llir  world 
no  need  of  aid  in  laying  the  foundalions  of  their 
fame.  .Vnd,  however  adverse  the  opinions  of  the 
times  may  l)c  to  their  claims  on  inunortal  renown, 
they  are  sure  of  living  hereafler — and  only  regret 
they  should  have  lived  a  lumilred  years  bcl'ore  llie 
world  was  prepared  to  receive  them. 


There  is  another  class  who — contidcnt  tha 
they  u:iderRtaiid  the  subjects  they  treat  of,  ifnotll. 
ing  eUe,  aiul  that,  epcaking  plain  truth  for  the  in. 
formation  of  piaui  men,  they  caimot  fail  to  narrate 
matter  of  interest  concerning  scenes  or  incidents 
they  have  vituesscd,  and  sens  itions  they  have  c.^- 
perienced — trouble  not  thenis-elves  witli  qU'ilnwof 
inability  or  lack  of  p'jl!.i!i,  but  speak  from  the 
heiu't  right  on.  These  write  tiieir  names  on  their 
title-pages,  and  leave  their  readers  at  leisure  Xft 
judge  of  their  merits  as  they  dcvelope  themselves 
in  the  work  it..jlf,  without  any  si>cciil  pleading  or 
any  deiueeatorv  prayers  to  tlie  reviews,  by 

"THE  AUTHOR." 


INTRODUCTIOX. 

The  Oiirj:o.\  TEiiiirroav  form:*  the  tcrmiima  of 
thr;ic  travels;  and,  as  lli:it  loimlry  is  an  object  of 
mui'li  interest  on  both  sides  of  the  .Vtlaiilic,  I  hava 
thought  proper  to  preface  my  wanderings  there  by 
a  brief  discussion  of  tlie  question  as  to  whom  it 
belongs. 

Hv  iredics  l)elwei'n  tlic  United  .States  and 
Spain  and  .Mexico  and  Russia  the  southern  boun- 
dary of  Oregon  is  fixed  on  the  I'-id  parallel  of 
.Vorth  Latitude;  and  Ihcnorlhcriion  an  East  and 
West  line  at  .'>  '  li)'.  North.  Us  natural  boundary 
on  tlie  Ivist  i  the  main  ridgr  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, situated  about  -I'H)  miles  East  of  the  Paciti'o 
Ocean,  which  washes  it  on  the  West.  From  these 


Entered  accords 
three,  bv  TiiOM.\s 


ing  to  an  Act  uf  Congress,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  ei^hle.n  hundred  and  forty 
J.  F.vn.MUM,  in  'the  Clerk's  Office  oj  the  Southern  Dis^'^"''  Ar*«-V«-;i, 


nsdc 


^m 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


data  the  reader  will  observe  tliHt  it  is  about  600 
iiiilee  in  length  and  400  in  brentli 


authorities  referred  to,  no  jurisdiction  had  been 
exercised  by  tlie  subjcctB  of  any  civiUzcd  power 


According  to  tlie  well  cstf.blished  laws  of  Na-  i  ""  any  part  of  llio  North-Wcsl  coast  of  America 
tions  applicable  to  the  prcniis<'s,  the  title  to  the     between  :)"  and  OOdogrccBof  North  latitude 
Bovereignty  over  it  depends  upon  the  prior  diseov. 
ery  and  occupancy  of  it,  and  uiron  cessions  liy 


treaty  from  the  first  discoverer  and  occupant. — 
These  several  important  matters  I  proceed  to  ex- 
amine with  Grccnough's  History  of  the  Northwest 
coast  of  America  and  the  works  therein  named 
before  me  as  sources  of  reference. 

From  the  year  1533  to  1540,  the  .SjisinlHli  fiov. 
cnunent  sent  four  expeditions  to  explore  the  North. 
West  Coast  of  Americii  in  search  of  what  did  not 
exist,— a  water  communication  from  the  I'a. 
cific  to  the  Atlantic.  These  iloets  were  severally 
commanded  by  Mazuehi,  tirijalva,  Bceera  and 
UUoa.  They  visited  the  coast  of  Califoniia  an<l 
the  South- WcBteni  shore  of  Oregon. 

The  next  Naval  Expedition,  under  the  same 
Power,  commanded  by  Bartolenie  Ferrelo,  pene- 
trated the  North  as  far  as  latitude  43°  and  (Uscov- 
cred  Cape  Blanco. 

Juan  de  Fuca  discovered  and  entered  the 
•Straits  that  boar  liis  name  in  the  year  1592. — 
He  Bi)ent  twenty  days  within  the  StraitR  in  ma- 
king  himself  acquainted  with   the   surrounding 


Thus  is  it  shown  on  how  firm  and  incontro. 
vertible  data  the  Spanish  claims  rest  to  the  prior 
discovery  and  occupancy  of  the  Oregon  Terrritory . 

But  as  against  England  this  claim  was  rendered 
if  possible  more  certain  by  the  treaty  of  February 
lOth,  17U3,  between  Spain,  England  and  Franco 
— by  which  England  was  confirmed  in  her  ('ana. 
diaii  possessions,  and  Spain  in  her  discoveries  and 
|)iirehaNed  jmsscssions  west  of  the  Mississippi.  If, 
then,  England  has  any  claim  to  Oregon  as  derived 
from  Spain,  it  must  rest  on  treaty  stipulations  en- 
tered nito  Hubsiquently  tn  the  lOtli  of  February, 
17t)3.  We  accordingly  find  her  to  liavc  formed 
a  treaty  with  Spain  iu  the  )-ear  180(1,  sotthng  the 
diffictdties  between  the  two  powers  in  relation 
to  Nootka  Sound.  By  the  first  article  of  thcron- 
vention,  Spain  agreed  to  restore  to  England  those 
jwrtinns  of  the  country  around  Nootka  Sound 
which  r.ngland  had  so  oecujjied  in  regard  to  time 
and  manner  as  to  have  acquired  a  right  to  them. 
The  5th  article  siipidates  as  follows : 


adjacent,  situate  to  the  north  of  the  coast  already 
occupied  by  Spain  wherein  the  subjects  of  either 
of  the  two  Hovers  shall  have  made  settlements 
since  the  month  of  April  1789,  or  shall  hereafter 
make  any.  'l"he  subjects  of  the  other  shall  have 
free  access  and  shall  carry  on  their  trade  without 
any  disturbance  or  molestation." 

The  inquiries  that  naturally  arise  here  are,  on 
what  places  or  parts  of  the  North-West  Coast  did 


"5th.  As  well   in  the  places  which  arc  to  lie 
restored  to   the  British  subjects  by  virtue  of  the 

country,  tracUng  with  the  natives,  and  in  taking  ;  ^,?S "51''^'';  "/  '"  ""  f '"  '^'"'''""f  ''""  '"^'°"'l- 
■',  ^  ...  1  AVest  t  oast  of  North  America,  or  of  the  Island, 

jiosscssion  of  the  adjacent  territories  m  the  name  ' 

of  the  Spanish  Crown.     The  Straits  dc  Fuca  en. 

ter  the  land  in  latitude  49°  North,  and,  running  ] 

one  hundred   miles    in    a  South-easterly    diree. 

tion,  change  their  course  North-westwardly  and 

enter    the    Ocean    again    under    latitude    51°  ; 

IJorth.     And  thus  it  appears  that  Spain  diseov.  \ 

cred  the  Oregon  Coast  from  latitude  4i.'°  to  49°  | 

North  251  years  ago— and,  as  will  appe.ir  by  ref-  !   tl.is  article  oi)erate;  what  rights  were  grant.  '  by 

erence  to  dates,  184  years  jmor  to  the  celebrated  ■   -^^^  ,„„i  (^  ^^,,,,1  patent  the  V'nited  States,  as  the 

English  Expedition  under  Captain  Cook.  |   j^^ccessors  of  Spain,  in  the  ownership  of  Oregon, 

In  1602, and  subsequent  years  Corran  and  Vis-  i|  ^fg  hound  by  this  treaty  I 
caiiio,  in  the  employment  of  Spain,  surveyed  many  jj      These  will  be  considered  in  their  order. 
parts  of  the  Oregon  Coast,  and  in  the  fullowing  ,       dearly  the  old  Spanish  settleinintsof  the  Call- 
year  Aguiler  in  the  same  service,  discovered  the  ,'  f„mias  were   not    ineluded    among   the  places  or 
mouth  of  thel'inpquariverinjatitiide44°  North.  :i  parts  of  the  Norlli-West  Coast  on  which  this  ar- 

In  August,  1774,  Pare/,  and  Martinez  under  tide  was  intended  to  operate,  for  the  reason  that 
the  Spanish  Hag  discovered  and  anchored  in  '[^  Kiigland,  the  party  in  interest,  has  never  claimed 
Nootka  Sound.  It  lies  between  49  and  50  de.  }  that  they  were.  But  on  the  contrary,  in  all  her 
grces  of  North  latitude.  !^  diplomatic  and  commercial  intercourse  with  Spain 

In  1774  and  1775  the  North- West  Coast  was  j  since  IHOil,  she  has  treated  the  soil  of  the  (/ahfor- 
explored  by  Parez  and  Martinez  of  the  S|)anish  j  nias  with  the  same  consideration  that  she  has  any 
nervice,  as  far  North  as  the  58th  parallel  oflati-'l  portion  of  the  Spanish  territories  in  Europe. — 
tude.  i  And  since  that  country  has  formed  a  department 

On  the  6th  day  of  May,  1789,  the  Spanish  cap.  jl  of  the  Mexican   Republic,  England   has  setup 
tain  Martinez,  commanding  two  national  onned  j  no  claims  within  its  limits  under  this  treaty, 
vesecls,  took  possession  of  Nootka  Sound  and  the  I      Was  Nootka  Sound  embraced   among  the  pla. 
•iiioiuijifr  country.   Previoua  to  this  event,  say  the    ccs  refcrcd  to  in  thii  article  ?    That  woi  the  onlv 


eel  111  f 
|ecls 

muiilll 
aii'l  u| 


in  the  Rocky  Mounlains,  the  Oregon  Tcrrilor;/,  ffc. 


icttldiiriit  on  tlu!  Nortli  Went  ('iKiHt,  of  the;  mil). 
jcclB  of  Si):iiii  or  Kti;;luinl,  nm<lr  lictwicii  thfi 
iiiuatli  of  April,  ITri?,  <iii:l  llio  >\niv  i>(  111"  (nsily. 
iiu^l  \v.i;i  uiiilfmlili(ll)-  (•ml)r;iiT<l  in  llw  'A\\  Arti. 
rlu.  Anil  so  wwi  tlif  rcniiiinilrr  of  llir  roasi,  ly. 
in'^  Norlliwiird  of  Nocilkii  on  wliicli  Spiiin  hul 
cltiinis.  It  (lid  not  cxtciil  Smilli  of  Noulkii  Somitl. 
Sol  an  in<-li  of  wiil  in  tlic>  vallry  of  the  ('nltniil)iii 
ami  its  Irilmt  uicM  wns  incliidcil  in  tli'  provisions 
of  Irciity  of  17(i.'). 

Our  ni'xt  inipiiry  rcl  ilcs  to  the  n;ilnrr  :inil  ex- 
tt'nt  of  llio  riglilH  iit  Noolka  und  nurlliward  which 
Kii'jlund  iiC(|nircd  by  this  Ircily.  'J'licy  urr 
(ktrK'il  in  tlir  conclndin'j;  jdirasr  of  tlir  :nii<drl)(". 
fo.iM'itcd.  Till'  suliji'i'ls  of  liolli  till- iT)iitrnclin<; 
I'owiTK  •' shall  have  fri'i'  across,  and  slidl  carry 
on  llicirlrado  willi'inl  distnrliancc  or  inoUsiition."' 
In  oIli'M'  words  llic  sulijccls  of  Kntrland  shall  have 
l.ii;  H  inic  rijjht  to  est  ililisli  tradin-j  posts  and  car. 
ry  on  a  trade  wilii  the  Indians,  as  were,  or  shonid 
he  enjiived  hy  SJ)•.lMi^:ll  snlijecls  in  those  r(';;ions. 
Docs  this  stipidatiiin  ahroriile  the  Sovi.'rriiriil v  <d 
.■-^p  lin  over  those  Territories  !  I)n;;land  Ik  rsilf 
has  si'arcely  inipu'lenite  eiioaffh  to  nrire  with  se. 
rinnsness  a  proposilinn  sc)  ridicnlimsly  absurd.  A 
j;rant  of  an  e([U  d  riirlil  to  sellle  in  a  coinitry  for 
piM'pc)ses  of  trade— anil  a  [fnacanty  afi'ainst  "dis. 
tnrbanee"'  and  "  molestation,"  does  not,  in  any  vn. 
cahulary  of  common  reason,  imply  u  cession  of  I  he 
KovereijTiily  of  the  IciTitory  in  whiih  Ihesoaclsare 
to  be  done.  The-  niniib.r  and  nalnre  of  tlie  rijjhis 
frranled  to  Kn;^l;Mid  hy  I  his  Ire  ity  ari' simply  a  r\<shl 
of  the  joint  oe.cnpiiiey  of  Xootlia  and  Ihe  Spanish 
territories  to  the  Nijiiliward  for  pii'pnscs  nt  trade 
with  the,  Indians  ;  a  joint  tenancy,  suhiecl  to  he 
terminated  at  the  will  of  Ihe  owner  of  the  lillelo 
the  feo  and  111'-  Sovereijruty  ;  und,  if  not  Ihiis 
tcrminaleil,  to  he  teniiinalevl  hy  llii'  opiTaliens 
of  the  ni'Cessity  of  thin:'s — the  lui'iilnl  ilioii  of 
the  trade — the  destrii-lion  of  the  Indians  llnni- 
selves  as  they  should  fall  hefoa^  the  march  of  civ. 
ili/ati'Xi.  It  eml.l  nol  have  bicna  perpelnal  riLrhl. 
ill  the  eimteniplation  of  either  of  Ihe  ei<ntraeliii;r 
parties. 

Uill  there  are  re  irons  why  the  provisions  of  the 

treaty  of  17().3  in  ver  hive  been  ao.l  n  vi  r  can  he 
hindinij  on  the  rnited  .States  as  ih  ■  Mieeessors  of 
Spain  in  the  Oregon  Territory. 

There  is  the  evidence  of  private  irentleineii  of 
tlie  niost  nndonblcd  idiaraed  r  ^oiii;;  lo  show,  that 
iSpain  neilliersiirrend'  red  lo  Ensjlandany  portion 
of  Nootka — or  ollii  r  parts  of  the  North- West 
Coast;  for  that  if  she  otVeivd  to  do  do,  the  oiler  was 
not  acted  upon  by  lliiiiland; — and  testimony  to 
the  same  elVecl  in  the  deliates  of  ihe  limes  in  Ihe 
Farliainunt  of  Britain,  iu  which  tliis  important 


,  fiict  is  distinctly  ussertcd,  anlhorisi!  iih  to  declitro 

I  that  the  treaty  of  1 7f i<i  was  itnnnlled  hy  Spnin,  nnd 
so  considered  by  Knijland  herself  And  if  Hni^land 
did  not  nil  an  lo  show  the  worbl  thai  she  aeipiicHced 
ill  the  iioii-liilliliiient   of  Spiin.  t.lie   shoiihl   have 

'  reasserled  her  ri;,r|ils.  if  she  lhoi|i;ht  she  had  any, 
and  not  lefl    third   parlies  to  infer  that  she  hail 

I  (Mliellv  aliindoned  them.     The  I 'nitcd  States  had 

I  every  reasfin  to  infer  such  iiliandoiiment  ;  and  in 
view  of  it,  thus  manilesled.  piireliased  <)rei,'on 
of  .Spain.  I'lider  these  ciicinnsl  inces,  with  what 
jiisliee  can  Ihigland,  after  the  hi|me  of  nearly  Intif 
a  century,  come  forward  and  demand  of  the  sni;- 
ccssor  of  Spain  ri!,dits  in  Oreiroii  which  shir  Ihim 
virln.illy  abandoned — which  were  refused  by 
Spain,  and  to  wliii  h  she  never  had  the  shadow  of 
a  ri;,'ht  on  the  score  of  prior  discovery,  oceiipan. 
cy  or  |iiirehase  >  The  perpelually  controlling  im- 
pudence aiul  selfishness  of  her  iMiliey  is  the  only 
plea  that  hislory  will  assif^n  lo  her  in  aecoimtiii|r 
for  Ik  r  pretensions  in  this  matter. 

Knjiland  also  (daces  her  claim  to  Dreijon  ii|>on 
the  ri^dil  of  di.seovery.      f.et  lis  examine  this: 

TIk  first  Ihiglish  vessel  wiiieli  visited  that  coust 
was  comiiianded  by  I'raneis  iMaUe.  lie  entered 
the  I'acilie  in  ITTH;  and.  allboiiirh  his  invn  eonn. 
try  was  at  peace  with  Spain,  rolilied  Ihe  towns  and 
shi|is  along  the  ^le.xiiMii  coast  with  all  the  hardi- 
hood and  rccklessncssof  a|ir:i  lieedpirate,  niidere. 
ated  siieli  a  sens  ilioii  alniii;  the  eoas!  that  his  namo 
was  a  terror  lo  Ihe  people  for  a  i"  ill  iiry  afterwards. 
After  he  had  amused  himself  in  this  manner  to 
his  salisfielioii.  he  saibd  up  'h"  coast  to  the  45111 

j  parallel  of  .North  lalilu  le.  and  then  returned  to  the 
.')H|li  deirrie — ai'cijiled  Ihe  crown  of  the  native 
Prince  in  the  name  of  his  l^neen — cidled  the  conn, 
try  .New  Albion — reliiiiiid  lo  lve,r|and.  and  was, 
in  virtue  of  the  kiiii;hlliood  eonlerred  upon  him, 
clmn<(ed  from  a  pirati  to  an  honest  irentlenian. 

The  p'  rtionsol  OriMronseen  by  Ihiikehad  been 
seen  an     e.vplored  by  Ihe   .Spaniards  several  times 

!  williin  the  previinis  thirty  y<  .us. 

Sir    'J'lionias   CaMiidish    next    came  n|)oii  the 

:  coast;  hut  did  not  see  .so  minli  ul  it  as  Drake  hud. 
The  celebrated  I'aplaiii  Cook  lollowcd  Caven. 
dish.  He  saw  the  coast  in  latitude  l.'J  and  48 
decrees.  He  passed  the  Sirails  ile  f'uca  wiMiont 
.si'ciiid  them,  and  anehoied  in  Nootka  iSound  on 
the  Itith  of  February,  \'il'J.  In  trading  with  the 
Indians  there,  he  found  th  it  they  had  wea|H)nsof 
iron,  ornainenis  of  bra.ss,  and  sjioons  of  .Sj)anisli 

'  nianiii'aelure.  Noolka  had  bein  discovered  and 
ociaiiiied  hy  the  .Spani.irds  4  vears  before  Cook 
arrived. 

The  snbseipicnt  Ihiglish  navigators — Mears, 
Vancouver,  and  otheni — bo  far  as  the  Oregon  coai 


Trnvnl»  in  the  Great.  IfViVrn  Pniiriet, 


TRAVELS.   .Vc 


w,i5  llir  (iilil  III'  llii'ir  luliorn,  wrre  iuIIhwimk  in  lliol 
Ir.ifks  |iniiilc-i|  out  liy  iIip  prrvloiix  ilisi-nvcrirn  of 
tlip  Spiniirds. 

So  riids  tlir  clniin  of  niis;lund  lo  Orccon  on  tlir 
rinlil  of  prior  (li-X'ovcry.  \;<oppoM(|  to  Kn;;!.!!!!!, 
Spiin'H  ri^^hls  on  lliis  principle  wire  iniiiiilolililc. 

Ity  till'  Iri-ity  of  Kloriili,  r;iliticfl  l''ilirti;irv  •-'•.M, 
IHl'.l,  Spiiiii  <Milcil  lo  llic  I'liihdSliilix  111  1  ri;;lilh 
ill  the  (.)rc!ioii  'I'frritory.  in  llic  rollowiiii:  wohIh  : 
"  Mia  Ciiiliolir  MiijcHly  crdcM  to  llic  s;i.id  t'liilid 
States  idl  his  iii;litM.  cluiinn  mid  prrliMisionx  !o 
liny  iPirilorirs  r  ikI  and  iiorlli  ol  s  lid  Wnf  ;  "  iin'aii. 
ill);  till'  I'Jd  paralli'l  of  moiIIi  lalitmli',  runiMn  iic- 
iiifj  at  llic  head  waters  ol  llic  ArliaiiKa«,  mid  niir 
niii;j  went  to  the  I'liciCic  ;  "  and  lor  hiiiiHel!',  liin 
liJB  licirH  and  wirpoHPorH  rciioiiiiccM  all  claiiii  to 
the  Raid  tcrrilorii  k   lorcviT." 

Hill  the  L'liiled  SlatcH  have  ri;;htK  lo  Orrjjon 
which  ol  llicinselves  annihilate  the  pietensions 
iiol  only  ol' i;n;;laiid  hilt  the  world,  llur  eilizeiis 
(irnt  diHCovcred  that  tlie  country  on  which  Noot- 
ka  Sound  is  iilnaled  was  an  island — tliev  lii'st 
imvijiateil  thai  part  of  the  Sirails  ile  |''nia  lyiinr 
iH'twi'cn  I'liiMfN  Soimd  and  t^iieeii  ('harlolte'H 
Inland,  and  diKcovered  the  main  coast  of  Xorlh- 
wt'Bt  America,  from  latitude  H  to  .'ill  de^rrres 
north.  Ainoriran  citizens  also  diRcovercd  Queen 
C'hurlotle'i!  Island,  sailed  around  it,  and  discovered 
the  main  lanil  to  the  east  ol  it,  as  far  north  as  lat- 
itude ;').")''.  l',iiu;laiid  can  show  no  discoveries  he- 
tweeu  these  latitudes  as  important  ns  these;  and 
consoqiienlly  has  not  equal  rights  willi  us,  as  n 
disoovcrer,  to  that  ;mrt  of  Ore;i;on  iiovtii  of  the 
4!Mli  decree  ol  laliludc.  \Vc  also  discovered 
the  Columbia  River;  and  its  whole  valley,  in  ! 
virtue  of  that  discovery,  accriicH  to  us  under  the 
laws  of  nations.  One  of  these  laws  is  that  the 
nation  which  discovcrH  the  inoiitli  of  a  river,  hy 
implication  discoveis  the  whole  eonnlry  watered 
hy  it.  We  discovered  the  inoiilh  of  the  Colnin- 
bia  and  most  of  its  hramhrs;  and  that  valley  is 
ours  as  astainsl  the  world.  Ours,  also,  hy  jmr. 
chase  from  Spain,  the  first  discoverer  and  occu- 
pant of  the  coast.  Ours  hy  prior  oecupanev  of 
its  (ircat  River  and  Valley,  and  hy  that  law 
which  gives  us,  in  virtue  of  such  discovery  and 
occupancy,  the  territories  naturally  dependent 
upou  such  valley.  Wo  are  the  rijfhtful  and  sole 
owner  of  all  those  parts  of  Orcfion,  which  are 
not  watered  hy  the  Colninhia,  lyin^  on  its  iiorlli- 
ern  and  Minthern  iHirdcr,  and  which,  in  the  Ian- j 
guage  of  the  law,  are  nalurally    (li  pendent   upon  li  oidv  response  of  these   martvrs  lo   hnniaii   snpre. 


CUVPTKR    I. 

Tlir.  Hpnili/niui— Till-  Diiliiiiil ion— Tlir  Kiliiraiinn  n( 
.Mu'f^  — 't'hf  Hmila  Ke  Trmltfrii— Tin*  MoriiKnii— Tli«' 
IImIV  W.ir  -Kiiiriinrp  ii)K>ii  111."  Imtim  'IVrrllnrV— A 
hi  ii'iii'— All  Kih-itiitp  ni'iil— A  ljO%«— A  lluiil— Tlii*  llmiKe 
Ui.cr— \  Ml  I  liiii:  lui  I  IViriinsf-  Knnz  iii<  Imliiiis— An  In- 
itt.iii  t'liii'iinipnii-nt— (^finiiril  Oriivc— Kiiln*— An  Imlinn 
anil  111*  W.iiit  — Kik— .\  riMii|ic»l— Ciipiiin  Ki-lly— A  Com- 
fiirllcNs  Ni^lil, 

On  the  '.'Ist  of  >ray.  HHil.  the  author  anil  six- 
Ircii  otherH  arrived  in  the  town  of  liidcpindencc. 
Mo.  Onr  dcsliiiation  was  the  Oiejron  Territory. 
Some  of  onr  iiinnher  soii;;hl  heallli  in  the  wilder. 
iiesM — others  Min(,'iit  the  wilderness  for  its  own 
Hake — and  still  olhi  rs  souifhl  a  residence  aiiioni; 
the  aiicienl  loiests  and  lofty  liii;hlH  of  the  valley 
of  llie  Coliniiliia  ;  anil  each  aelualed  liy  his  own 
peculiar  rcanins  ol  interest  heiraiihis  piep.ir.itionn 
lor  leavini;  the  rrontier.  I'aek  iiiiili  s  and  horses 
and  pack-siiddles  were  purchased  and  prepared  for 
i  service,  liaeoii  iiiiil  Hour,  salt  and  pepper,  siilli- 
eii'iil  fur  ini)  niilis,  were  secured  in  sacks;  onr 
jiowdcr-casks  wire  wrapped  in  painleil  canvass; 
and  laryje  oil-clollis  were  purchased  to  protect 
these  and  onr  sacks  of  clolhiiiix  I'ioin  the  rains; 
our  arms  were  ihoroiiijiily  repaired;  liiilli  Is  were 
moulded  ;  puwder-hurris  and  eap-hoM's  tilled  ;  and 
all  else  done  that  «as  deemed  iieeeiUnl,  liefore  wii 
struck  onr  lent   lorllie  Indian  'I'errilory. 

Hut  Im  role  leaviii;;  this  little  woodhnid  town,  it 
will  he  inlerestin;,' to  remenilHT  that  it  is  the  usual 
place  of  rcnde/.voiis  and  ■•oull'it"  for  the  overland 
traders  to  Santa  I'V  and  other  .Mexicii"  .States,  hi 
the  month  of  Mav  of  each  year,  these  tiaders  cou. 
^reijate  here,  and  liiiy  larjre  I'ennsylvaiiiii  wa(jons, 
and  teams  of  mules  to  convey  their  calicooB,  cot- 
tons, cloths,  hoots,  shoes,  &<•.&<■.,  over  the  plains 
to  Ihtit  distant  and  hazardous  niarkel.  And  it  is 
(|iiile  ainnsiu'T  to  a  '  ,rrccn-liorn,"  as  tho.sp  are 
called  who  Inve  never  liceii  rn^a)red  in  the  trade, 
to  .see  the  midi  s  make  their  first  atlempt  at  prac- 
tical piilliiiir.  'Till  y  iire  harnessed  in  a  team  two 
upon  the  shaft,  and  the  rcmainiler  two  abreast  in 
lonij  swiiiirinjf  iron  trices.  And  then  by  way  of 
initiary  iiiliinaliou  that  they  have  passed  from  a 
life  ol  mouoloniius  .'onteniplatiou.  in  the  seclusion 
of  their  nurscrv  pastures,  to  the  bustling;  duties  of 
the  "Sanli  I'l'  Trade,"  a  hot  iron  is  applied  to 
the  thijjh  or  shoulder  of  each  with  an  eiiihrace  so 
cordially  warm,  as  lo  leave  there,  in  blistered  iK-r. 
feelioii,  the  initials  of  their  last  owner's  name. — 
This  done,  a  Mexican  Spaniard,  as  chief  muleteer, 
inonnis  the  liirhl-hand  wheel  iiinle,  and  another 
the  left  hand  one  ol  the  span  next  the  leaders, 
while  four  or  live  olhi  is,  ns  |i)ot-};iiard,  stand  on 
cither  side,  armed  with  whips  and  thongs.  The 
team  is  sir.iiiilileiicil — and  nov.'  comes  the  trial  of 
passive  obeilii  iiee.  The  chief  niuleteer  gives  the 
shont  of  march,  and  drives  his  long  spurs  into  the 
sides  of  the  .'iniiual  thai  bears  him;  his  compan- 
ion before  lollows  liiseAample;  but  there  is  no 
movement.      A    leer — an   uue.irlhly   bray,   is    the 


till 
or  li 

ami 

tioii 

sum 

up 

en 

prei 

hill 

disi 


it.     Oregon   'I'errilory,  lor  all  these  reasons  and 
many  others  which   will  be  found  in  the  energy  ' 
with  wliicli,  if  necessary,  our  citizeuB  will  defend  i 


niai'v.  Again  the  team  is  straightened;  again 
the  hlfKidy  rowel  is  applied ;  the  body-guard  on 
foot  raise  the  shout;  and  all  as  one  apply  the  lash. 
The  untutored   animals   kick  and  leap,  rear  and 


it,  is  the  rightful  property  of  thcue  United  States,  li  plunge,  and  fall  in  their  hamcBS.  lafina.  tbau« 


in  the  Hockij  Mountains,  the  Oreeon  Terrilirri/,  i^v. 


Sec. 


I'Im-  Kiliiniiinn  nf 
'■  MnriiKiiia—'rhi' 
iin    iVrrlinrv-A 

lluiii-Tlie  liMiiii' 

II.  Iii.llii,«-Aii  In. 

llllln._/\„     |,„||„n 

"I  Kwiy-A  Cniu- 

■I'llluir  1111(1  nix. 
Iiiilc|>iii(|(.|iir, 
U^i>li  'IVirilorv. 
ill  till'  wilder. 

■™   r>>r  itH  own 

■sidcilCC   IIIIKIII^ 
'"  'll'lllf   Vhllcv 

||  li_v  liis  Kuii 

■  |'i'|iir,iii(iii» 

nil >  ^iiid  liorM'S 

iiid  prepared  lor 

<\   l>l|'P"''.    Nlllll. 

IN  s.ickH ;  our 
iiili'il  I'liiivnKH  ; 
<w<l  to  protect 
■')iii  Ihr  riiiiiH; 
;  ImiII'  Is  vverfi 
•vi'N  lilled ;  iiiid 
ill'id,  l)eforoH(! 
ilory. 

"lliiMil  (own,  it 
it  is  llie  iiKn.il 
irllie  overland 
icir  Sliii.K.  I„ 
■KO  li.idern  eon- 
Viinia  Wiijronn, 

•  CMlicOTR,    cot. 

"verlhrpluins 
'■'•      -VnclitiK 

ill*  tlio«c  uru 
il  in  tlie  Iradf, 
'■mi't  at  pnic- 
I"  '1  Irani  two 
v<>  al)re»Ht  in 
I'n  l)j'  way  of 
[>!i8Kcd  from  a 

tile  Hcclnsion 
lin(r  (lulicaof 

i«  applied  to 
II  I'liiliiaep  so 

WiKlercdjHT. 

<.T'n  name 

lii-riniilelier, 
■ind  another 

llir  leaderB, 
I'll,  stand  on 
l"llJfN.  'I'll,, 
»  Ilic  trial  ot 
■''I'  «ivfK  the 
I'lirsinto  (he 
liis  eonipan- 
tliere  in  no 
"'•ly,  is  the. 
iiiiin  Kiiprp. 
|'<<I ;  afjain 
y-tjuard  on 
'ly  tl>c  lash. 
J),  rear  and 


I 


the  rmilo ;  and  gcncrnlly  enceeod  in  breiikini  ncrk 
or  liiiili  01  Koine  oiii  of  ilirir  nnniher,  iinil  in  raiH   I 
iiiu  a  tiiiiiiilt  III. 1 1  w  I.I  ill!  (Ill  en  lilt  to  any  order  of  : 
iiniinals  uceiisloiiiiil  to  Imi:;  i  ar:i. 

Alter  a  lew  lr.iiriiii:;s.  Iinuevii'.  ol  tliix  ilii.iiip.  i 
lion.  tl|(y  move  oil'  in  tine  slyie.  \iiil.  allli(illi.'h 
wiine  liieklesH  oiii'  mnv  at  iiilervuU  lir.ice  liimmir,  ; 
lip  to  an  imeompi'iimiHinir  re-  ixtaiiec  ol  kiicIi  en.  { 
eroieliinenl  upon  Ins  Ireedom,  xtill,  the  iii.i|(iiily  ^ 
prelrrriiiu  passive oliedieiiee  to  active  p'  llmi;,  dratr 
iiiin  onward,  till.  liUe  tli('in.<elveH.  IiiniiIiiiiiIh  tu  tlie  i 
diHi'ipliiie  ol  the  Iraci  H. 

'Independence'  wax  the  I'iihI  lucation  ol'llie  Mm: 
»i(iH.s' West  ol  the  Mississippi.  Hire  they  laid  out 
tfroimilH  tor  tliiir  trmple.  ImiiIi  the  '  Lonrs  store,' 
und  in  oilier  ways  prepared  the  place  tor  the  per. 
inunent  eRlahlislmiiMl  ol  their  eiimnuimly.  Itiit, 
heenmintr  oi>iio\i(>iis  to  their  ni'ii;hl>iirs,  they 
crossed  the  Missniiii,  and  romiiled  the  lu.Mi  ol  '  I'ar 
\Ve;i|.'  In  IhlH  ihiy  reeoimm  need  rerl  on  prac. 
tie(Hof  their  hiilh  in  their  new  ahode,  and  Wi're 
ejectnl  iVoiil  the  State   hy  its  iiiililaiy  lorciM. 

I'he  inislortiiiK  s  ol'  thoc  piiipl|.  seem  to  h.'ive 
arisen  Iroin  plai'liciiiir  upon  ei  riaiii  rides  ol  a(  lion 
peculiar  to  theii'.^elyeH.  'I'lie  haMS  of  these  rules 
is  the  ussiiiii|ition  that  they  are  the  "  Saints  ol  the 
AIohI  lliirji,"  to  hIioim  the  i.ord  promisi d  ol'  old 
the  inheritance  ol'  the  earth;  und  that  as  siieli 
they  have  the  riijht  to  take  possession  ot  wlial. 
ever  tliey  niay  he  inspired  to  desire.  .Vny  moans 
are  jnstitialile.  in  tlieir  Ik  lief,  to  hriii^r  alHiiit  tlie 
restoration  to  the  "Chihlieii  ol'  (ioil"  ol  lint 
which  lie  has  he(pieathed  to  them.  In  ohedienee 
to  lliese  rules  ol  action,  any  .Morinon  or  •'  Latter. 
Day  Saint"  lahoriin;  lor  hire  on  a  "worldly" 
man's  plantation,  el.iimed  the  rigrht  to  dirrct  what 
iinprov(.ments  should  he  mnde  on  the  premisis; 
what  trecH  should  he  leMed,  and  what  (rroinids 
should  Iroiii  lime  to  time  he  eidtivaled,  II'  this 
prerogative  (d  siiintship  w(.ie  (luestioned  hy  tin 
warni.hlooiled  .Missoinians.  they  wen-  uith  jfri  at 
coolness  and  (rravity  iiiloiineil  that  their  uodly 
servants  e.\p(-(-led  in  a  short  liiiie  to  he  in  com. 
fortahle  iM)ssession  ol  their  iniployeis"  premises; 
tor  that  the  Latter  |)a\s  had  eoiiie,  and  with  them 
Iho  .Saints;  tli.it  wars  and  carnai;!'  wi-re  to  he  e.v. 
peeled;  und  that  tin-  l,aller.|)ay  Trophet  had 
Irnrned,  in  iiis  eiiimnimicatioiis  with  the  Ciiiirt  ol 
Heuvrn.  thai  tin  Missonriaiis  were  to  he  e.vler. 
niinated  on  the  first  enlarirement  ol  the  holders  of 
"  Zion  ;  "  and  that  over  tin-  (jraves  nl  tlm.se  "  eiie- 
niies  of  all  riirhteonsness"  would  sprinif  that  vast 
spiritual  temple  that  was  ■•  to  till  the  earth." 

The  provpeet  of  heiin;  tlnis  iminolaleil  upon  tlie 
nitur  ol  .Mormonisni,  did  nut  produce  fo  iiiiich 
hmnihty  ami  tremhlinir  amonij  tluw-  hardy  I'ron. 
tiersmen  as  the  pidpl'.et  .loe  liad  henevolenlly  ile. 
sired.  On  tli( 
that  their  thro: 

was  r(-sisteil  liy  some  rntliless  and  sinful  act  of 
self-deleiiee;    and  he    denniieiatioiis    of  the 

holy  hrotherlKHid  we.e  impiously  scorned  as  idle 
words.  However,  in  spite  of  the  irrelijrions  wiatli 
of  these  deluded,  henighted  .Missonriuns,  the  .Saints 
cut  timber  wherever  tliey  listed  on  the  domains 
that  were  claimed  by  tlie  people  of  the  world. 
And  if  the  "  l,ord's  hoj;s  or  imifes  "  wanted  corn, 
the  farms  in  the  hands  of  the  wicked  were  re. 
sorted  to  at  u  convenient  hour  of  the  iiiirht  for  u 


eontraiy,    the    pious    inlimation 
s  would  lie  (-lit    to    jrkirily  tJod, 


Mlpplv.  Ill  nil  Ihene  cniici',  llie  "Sainti"  iiliilii. 
h'sted  II  kind  refard  to  llie  lia|ipiness  even  of  llie 
elieinil  b  of  lliiir  t.iilh.  Tor  whelievi  r  they  l<Mlk 
corn  I'idlll  lielil>  in  po-^seMi  ion  ol  the  Wiillij',.  peo. 
pic,  tiny  not  only  avoided  i.\citiii;r  unholy  wratli 
hy  allowinir  thriiiselyes  to  In-  hcrii  ill  tin-  net,  lint, 
in  order  that  p(-acc  mlpjit  reiim  ii:  the  hosoms  of 
tli(.  wii-ked,  I  yen,  the  loiimsl  possible  tlliii,  ihey 
Hiripped  that  |M)ilion  of  llic  harvest  tiehl  which 
would  he   last  wi  n  by  the  iiiiifoillv  owner 

The'  (  h  III  I'll  iinlitaiit.'  linwi  ver,  beinir  iiielhcienl 
and  weak,  the  I'rophet  .loe  declared  that  it  WHS 
their  (inly  to  use  tthateyci  mi  ins  the  l.oid  iniithl 
fliinish  to  slrciii;th(-ii  thcmselyes.  And  as  one 
powerful  iiK  ans  would  he  the  kcepini;  its  doiil)iH 
as  mni-h  as  poshibic  liom  the  world,  il  wan,  lie 
s.iiil,  the  will  of  Heaven,  icvealed  to  liiin  in 
)ii'oper  form,  that  in  no  case,  whin  called  k-fore 
the  ini!£odly  li.hnuals  ol  this  perverse  and  blind 
(leneratiuii,  shuiild  they  uveal,  for  any  cinw-,  any 
matter  or   tliiiij;  thai    michl.  in   its  eoiisefpn-nces. 

brinir  upon   the  biothi  rl d  Ihc  inlhclioiis  ot  those 

preli-iided  mils  of  .Iii^lice.  by  the  woild  (-:illed 
Laws,  riiil(-r  till'  pidteciion  of  this  piuphecVi  a 
band  ol  the  bretlii'(U  was  nrftanm'd,  cdh-d  the 
"Tribe  of  Dan,"  whose  duty  it  was  to  take  and 
brill;;  to  the  "  I/ird's  ul(ii(-."  ni  the  far  Wi-st.  any 
of  the  Ixinl'a  personal  estate  whi.h  they  iiiit;ht 
lind  in  the  possession  of  the  world,  and  wliich 
iiiiiiht  b(-  iiseliil  to  the  •■  .Saints"  in  adyanciii(f 
their  kingdom,  (ireat  ifiMid  is  saiii  to  hav<!  Ik-ch 
(lone  by  this  Tribe  of  Dan.  For  the  liord's  store 
was  soon  tlllid.  and  the  Saints  praised  the  name 
of  .loe.  'I'he  rrophel's  l.ici  shone  with  the  li)tlil 
of  an  all.siihdiiiim  ileliubl  at  the  iii.-reas(.  of  "  Zi. 
on."  and  tin-  etlicirncy  of  his  ndmiiiistration. 

The  .Missonriaiis.  howe-.er.  W(-re  destitute  of 
the  Latter  Day  I'.iilh.  and  of  just  views  of  tln- 
riiibls  (Il  vised  to  ihoye.  who.  in  the  Lord's  iiiune, 
should  dolroy  his  adyersarns.  .iiid  rt-store  the 
earth  to  the  ilominiuM  of  milli  iiial  riirhteonsness. 
l'(H)r  mortals  and  deluded  sinners  1  They  believed 
that  the  vain  und  worldly  eiiai-lniinls  ol  Ic. 
^'islative  h(i(ii(S  were  to  pri  vail  against  the 
inspirations  of  the  Latter  Day  I'rophi  t  ,Ioe  ;  and 
in  their  iins.metilied  zeal,  declared  the  Saints  to 
Ik.  thiey(-s.  and  uniust,  and  mnrdiroiis;  and  tlie 
tribe  ol  Dan  to  be  a  pest  to  theconstitntionulund 
ai-knowb  (li.'i(l  inherent  and  natural  riirht  to  ae. 
(|iiir(-,  posMss,  and  (iijoy  prop(  rty.  Froni  lliis 
honi'st  liidi  rince  of  opinion  arost-  the  '•  Morinon 
War,"  wlioM-  ureal  eveni;: — are  they  not  recorded 
in  the  b(K)k  of  theehronieles  of  the  "  Latter  Day 
.Saints'''  Some  »'yents  iberc  were,  liowevcr,  not 
worthy  to  liinl  record  thvri ,  which  may  be  rela- 
ted In-re. 

'I'he  Cloyeriior  (d'  .Missouri  ordered  out  the  State 
Irisips  to  fi^ht  and  subdue  tin-  Mnrinons,  and 
lak(-  Iroiii  till  ni  the  pioperty  which  the  "  Trihc 
of  Dan''  had  deposited  in  the  •■  Lord's  brick 
store"  11  the  "(-itadcl  of  /.ion,"  cslled  "Far 
West."  It  U'iis  in  Is!).-*  they  appoared  helore  the 
camp  of  the  -•  Saints"  and  comm.inded  llii-ni  to 
siirreiidLr.  It  was  done  in  the  inanner  hereafter 
described.  Ikit  before  this  event  transpired,  I 
am  informed  that  the  Prophet  Joe  opened  hi^ 
mouth  ill  the  name  of  the  Lord,  and  said  it  had 
bcin  revealed  to  him  that  the  scenes  of  .lerioho 
Were  to  be  re(.mieti.(l  in  I'ar  \Vi  st ;  that  the  an. 
,  gelie  liost  would  ajipcar  on  the  day  of  buttle,  and 


Travfls  ill  ill  Grtnt  ]Visl(in  Prniiirs, 


liy  llnlr  ikiwit  L'ivi'  victory  to  llir  "  S;u;it»." — 
Anil  Id  lliiH  (Mil  III'  iiriliiril  a  liii  :ih|.\viiiU  I'l'  iiii'li 
pilir  liiiiirilK  III  III'  riiimil  iiroiiiiil  llir  r.iiii|i,  In 
HJinw  liy  lliiM  III  Ml'  luiili  rllmi  iijfiiliul  llir  iiilillrry 
iif  llinr  li«  M,  lliiil  llii  Ir  vln  ii!,'lli  wmh  in  llir"  lirriihl. 
|iliilr  III'  ii!;li(riiiitni'n  ."  mill  lliiil  liny  wili'  llic 
Nililii  rx  III  llii'  unlit, ml  |iiiitii>ii  iil  llir  Kiiitrilniii 
111  ll'iivill.  'I'lhii  Uiir  liliiliii  Ills  111'  invlul  MIS. 
|i>  lisr  III  llii'  r;iiii|i  III  llir  "S;iililn."  'llir  Mis. 
Niiiri  liiiyiiiii'N  liriKlliil  liiiirlillv  iiriir  llii'ir  iiiiKh, 
mill  nil  ih'imsmiiimI  Inilli  I  I'.iiili'sKly  |ii'iii  tr:il' il  the 
|ilnr.liiiliril  nilll|i.il'l,  rrL':irillr-H  ul  llir  illlllliitinn 
III  ilir  I'mpliil.  'i'lii'  III  .i\  I'll"  wirr  I'li/i  il  ii|m.ii 
liii'llii'  NJiiniii^  liiMl,  iiiiil  listi  iiiii:.'  riirn  tiinii'd  to 
iMlrli  till'  niHliiiii;  III'  wim;,'h  IIii'(iiii,'Ii  llir  liii|iiliiir. 
Till'  ili'iiiaiiil  III  .^iirniii.'i  I'  \\;\h  airniii  Iillil  inriiill 
rr|iral(  il ;  liill  h'iiilli  liail  Hri/.iil  oil  liiipi',  mill  Dr- 
lay  waH  llir  ritl's|n  iiiir. 

At  this  iKiirliiri'  ul'  iilliiirK,  a  nliirily  nlil  .Misfim. 
rimi  a|i|ii'iMirlii'il  llir  InicU  ^llll^,  pii'kaxc  in  liaiiil, 
apptiri  lltly  ili'lriliiinril  to  iln  \iiili  iii->  In  llir  wii'icil 
(l('|Mi)ii'  iiy.  (llir  111  till'  KislriN  111  nilicMir  wliili'iir. 
roHt  ,11111.  mill  with  prnprr  siilriiinil  v  niailr  kniiu'ii 
lliat  till'  '•  l.iPiil  iil'ilir  l-'ailliful  '  had  liM  aliil  niito 
.lor.  llir  I'riiplirl.  Iliil  iMTy  liiiiiil  raiwil  a|/aiii;.| 
thai  "  liiilv  Hiriirliiii  "  xvuiilil  iii'^liiiitlv  hr  willirrril. 
'I'hr  rniiilici'Kiiian  hrsitali  il.  Iiiil  llir  liarihliixiil 
rharartciistir  nl  thi'M'  iinii  ul'  Ihr  rillr  irliiriiinir, 
hr  rrpliril.  "  W  rll,  olil  lmI,  I'll  1:11  it  mi  mir  liainl 
any  linw."  Tlir  awiiil  Mow  was  hlriirk  ;  Ihr 
linild  (lid  nut  wither!  "  I  ilmililrs  up  now."  Kaid 
(he  daring  ni::ii.  iiiid  with  holli  hands  iiillirird  a 
lii'Hvy  hlow  upon  a  rorioT  lirirk.  It  Innililril  to 
till'  (ri'onnil.  and  tlir  luiildiiiir  ipiirkly  It  II  iindrr 
till'  wriirlit  ol  a  llioiisaiid  viyoroiis  arms.  'I'lir 
ronlidrncr  ol  tin-  Saiiils  in  tin  ir  I'roplul  wanril. 
and  a  Miirrrndrr  lollowi  il.      Sonu'  of  11 


> 


hr  piiiiripal 
men  wrrc  put  in  riislody.  hill  the  main  hoily  wrrr  1 
prniiiltt'd  to  Iravr  the  Slair  without  Carllirr  1110. 
Irslation.  W  r  allcrwanl  mrl  many  ol  llirni 
with  lliiir  111  rdn.  iVr.,  on  llir  road  troni  FarU'isl 
to  t^iiinry.  Illinois.  ||  u.is  ^lr(lnl;lv  intinialrd  liy 
Ihr  plaiitrrs  in  thai  si  riioii  ol'  ('oiniliy.  tli;it  Ihrsr 
I'lniliraliiid  ■■  lainis"  loiniil  lar;;('  ipianlilii  s  ol'tlir 
••  I,oii1'm  rorn"  on  Ihr  •,\ay.  wliirh  tlirv  a|ipropri. 
lid  as  need  siigijcHti  d  |o  their  own  and  tlirir  aiii.  1 
in. lis'  wants.  j 

'I'll;-  orijfin  of  the  '•  Hook  ol  "Mormon"  was  Cor  : 
some  tinir  a  niysli  ly.      liilt  rrn  nt  drvi  loprinriits 
provr  il  to  havr  lirrii  wnlti  n  ill  \i^\:i  liy  llir  Id  \-. 
Solomon  Spaiildinir.  ol  .Vrxv    ."salriii.  in  Ihr  Stair 
Hhio.     It  was  eoniposrd  liy  that   (frnllrman  as  a 
hisloriral  roniaiiee  ol'  the    lonir    extim't  rare  who 
limit  tlir  mounds  and    torts    wliirh    arr  sriittrri  (1 
over  the    valley  Slates.      .Mr.   Spailhliiiir   rrail  the 
work  while   eomposinir   it  to  some  ol'  hi.;   Iriends, 
who.  on  the  appeai'aner  of  the  hook  in  print,  were 
so  ihoroiiLrldy  eoiivinei  d  ol'ils  idinlily  willi  lliero.  ' 
iiiaiioc  ol   llirir   dreeased  pastor,   thai  scireli  waH  ' 
iiiadr,  and  the  on<;inal    nianiiseript   loimd  ;inioni,r 
his  papers,      lint  their  was  yrl  ii  marvel  how  the  1 
work  I'onld  have  [;ol  into  the  h.indsol  Joe  Siiiilli. 
On  I'urlher  investisralion.  liowevi  r.  il  appean  d  Ihit 
tlir  Kev.  author  had  enlerlained  llaaiyhts  ol'  piili-  1 
hshini;  it;  and,  in  pursiianec  ot  his  iiiti  iition.  had 
permitted    it    to    lie  a    loii<j  time  in    the   prinliii^ 
otlirr  in  wliieh  .*«iilney  Uiirdon,  who  has  li|;iiredso  '• 
]iromiiiently  in  the  hislorv  of  the  Mormons,  was  at    ' 
the    tiino  employed.      |{ii;don,    doiilitless.    copied 
jKKJr  iSiuiuUling's  novel,  uiid  with  il,  and  Ihu  aid  ii 


ol' Joe  .Smlih,  has  Miccicdcd  in  hiiildiii);  np  n  cyK. 

II  III  ol    siipi  istilion.  wli'i'li,   in  vili  in  rs  and  ImIix'. 
,  hood,  is  le.irccly  iipialid  hy  that  nt  Mahomet. 

I        .^'ohimon   .^paiddin^  waH   u  ;;riiiltiati  ol    Dart- 

[    limiith  Colli  lie. 

On  till  III  nil  olMay,  We  rnmidourKi  Ivcspri  pan  d 

{    to  nioM'  lor  the  li'diaii 'I'l  rrilory.     Our  pack. sad. 

;  (III  H  Iil  iiii'  till  ii  ,ot'i'  iiiria  d  upon  the  mninals.  oiir 
K,ii  ks  ol  piii\isions  \c.  Mindly  lai-hi  d  upon  llirlii, 
and  pi'oli  ell  d  in, in  llii'  rain  that  had  l,i  >;mi  In  tall, 
and  I'lii*-!  Ivi  H  wi  II  iiionnli  d  and  iiimid.  wr  took 
Ihr  road  llial  leads  oil' hoiilliw  <  si  I'lom  Indipeml. 
I  nee  in  the  (linclion  ol  ."^aiita  l''e,  lint  lla  rains 
that  li.iil  aeconipanii  d  li:  daily  since  we  lei:  I'co. 
ria,  Nl  I  III!  d  di  tern  1 1  lied  In  1  seorl  lis  still,  our  ill-lia- 
'tiired  Hciowls  III  the  conlrarv  nolw  illislaiidiui;, — 
We  had  Ir  iveird  only  three  miles  wl|i  u  siieh  tor. 

I   niilii  lell  that  wc  louiiil  il  mciisaiy  to  take  fhel. 

I  Icr  in  11  111  i!;hliorinii  school. house  Idr  the  niiihl. 
It  was  a  disni,il  one  ;  hut  11  hla'/ini;  lire  within, 
and  a  iiirriy  >on<_r  Irom  a  jovial  mi  iiihcr  nl  our 

J  conipaiiy  imparled  as  inu<  h  consolalion  as  our 
ciri'nmrlaiii'iN  seeiiii  d  toiliniaiid.  till  we  ri  spouil. 

III  to  the  liowlin'i   storm   the    sonorous  evideiici  h 
III'  ^wel  I  and  i|iiiit  slnnihi  r. 

'I'lir  lollow  iiijr  moriiiin.f  i '.  clear  and  pleasant, 
and  wr  were  early  oil  ou.  .u.ilc.  \\  c  ci.issed  the 
stream  called  liiij  111  lie.  a  trihiitary  of  the  Missouri, 
alioiit  I'io'cl  •'',  and  iipjiioaehed  the  horderol  the 
Indian  ilomaiiis.  .Ml  ui  re  an.xions  now  tosce  and 
liiiL'iT  ovi  r  (  very  olijcel  ihal  reiiiindid  us  wc  were 
still  on  the  coiiliiics  of  that  civili/ation  which  wc 
had  iiilii  riled  I'lom  a  Ihonsand  ircncrations ;  a  vaNt 
mid  iiiioerisli  ihlc  h  iriiey  ol  civil  and  mcial  hajipi. 
ness.  It  was.  Ihcrelore,  paiiiliil  loapproach  the  last 
fmiilier  (  uclosure — the  last  hahilatioii  ol  the  white 
man— llic  last  semhlancc  of  home.  'I'lie  last  ca. 
liin  at  Icnjith  was  approai  lied.  We  drank  lit  the 
well  and  liayiled  on.  It  w.is  iiowheliind  UK.  All 
was  heliind  us  with  which  the  syni|iatliicH  of  our 
yoiinjr  days  had  miMi;lcd  their  holy  mcinorii  s, — 
Hclorc  lis  werethc  In  I  li  ss  plainsof  (rreeii,  asllicv 
li:iil  hi  111  since  the  tlnoil — heanliliil,  nnhiokcn  hy 
liiisli  or  rock  ;  uiisoih  d  Ky  ploiii;hor  t  pailc  ;  sweetly 
Hc(  nil  il  with  till  lirsl  I  li>ssoiiiiii;>  ol  the  sprilljr. 
'I'llev  had  hei  11.  since  lime  1  oiiiinciiccd,  ilie  llica. 
Ire  III  ilie  Indians'  prowess — ol  their  liopcK,  joyH 
and  sorrows.  Here.  I,y  nations,  iik  the  eve  of 
deadly  lialllc  cUisi  d  iiroinid  them,  they  hail  knelt 
and  raised  the  votive  oircriii'.;  to  lliavcn,  and  ini. 
plored  the  lavor  and  priiti  etioii  of  thclircat  Spirit 
^yllo  had  fostered  their  fathers  upon  the  wnitry 
mounlaiusof  the  .\ortli  ;  and  when  hravcly  dyilijr, 
h'.id  hornc  them  to  the  islands  of  litdit  hi  ncatli  the 
seltiiiir  siin.  .A  lovely  landscape  this,  lor  an  In- 
dian's mi  dilution!  lie  could  almost  heliohl  in 
the  distance  where  the  plain  and  sky  met,  the  holy 
portals  oi  his  after  Kl;.ie — so  mazy  and  lieaiiiiful 
was  the  scene  ! 

Ilavimr  li'iveled  ahont  txvcutyf'ivo  miles  over 
this  Lcaiililnl  prairie,  wc  halted  on  the  liankn  of 
a  small  sin  am  at  a  place  called  Klin  (iroyc. — 
Here  we  pitched  oiir  lent,  tied  our  horses  tostakcH 
carried  lor  that  pnipose.  and  alter  considerahlc 
dillicully  havintr  olilaincd  luel  for  a  lire,  cooked 
and  ale  for  the  first  time  in  llie  Indian  'rerritory. 

.\l  this  encampment  linal  arran^'cments  were 
niailc  ior  our  joiiinev  over  the  Prairies.  To  this 
end  pi'iivisirns.  arm: .  aniiiiiinilinr.,  packs  and  pack- 
saddk'H  wtrc  ovcrliuulcd,  and  uii  uccouiil  taken  of 


\ 


\ 


our 
diiul 

WI 


"I'fx  1111(1  Ciili.e. 
"I  Miilimiii  t. 
iilii.ili  >,l    /)„r(. 

"■'  lvi>|ir(  (iiiri,| 

"lir|i;i(K.Mi,l. 

I'   Kiiiiiiiili..  iiiir 

'"'  'II'MI    fllclii, 

'  I'::mii  III  lull, 

ll""l.     \\V   IlKilj 

'IN  liiili  |ii ml. 

"ill  llii    riiliiN 

»'■  l<i     I'ci. 

"lill. 'iiir  ill-iiii. 

llif^l.iiii|jn;j 

'i'  II  Mii'li  Ifir. 

'"  likr  ^\u■l. 
'"'  'III'  liit'lil, 
'.  liri'  H-itliiii, 
ml" T  ol  our 
•ili'iii  lis  oiir 
line  r(H|i()ii(l. 

11  I  viilciir-iH 

"ml  |ilrili-.illl, 
'■  <■l.l^N(•||  III,. 

•  Ill'  .MiHrtiiiri, 
'''irdi  rill  ilir 
'»■  1(1  wr  mill 
'  IIS  «(■  wen- 
'II  uliicli  «|. 

'ii'iin;  II  v.-iKi 
i-'i'-i.il  liMjijii. 

"iicli  llirl.'iMl 
_"lllic«liil,. 

'I'll!'    I.'IHI    l-il. 

Iliillk  lit  llir 
lillll  IIH.  All 
"liKs  III' our 
iiciiiornK. — 

<■'  II.  llNlhcv 

I'lliiokcii  liy 

'!'•;  sviTtly 

llir  Hjiriinr. 

'I.  ;lic  llici. 

lldpCK,     JOVN 
llic     cvi'    ol' 

■  liad  kiicll 
II.  nnd  ini. 
■ri'iil  .Spirit 
I'll'  wnitry 
■<I.V  <lyiii^;, 
'  iiciitli  Die 
for  II M  Jn. 
lo'lidld  ill 
'Mllcll.ily 
I  Ix'iMiiiri'il 

ililrs  nyrr 

l':illl(H  (if 
(iroyi". — 
'londikcH 
it^idcriilili. 
f,  codkcd 
I'crritory. 
Ills  wori' 

'/'o  lliin 
iKljiack. 
tfikcn  of 


I 


in  the  Rnrli)  ^fulnlains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  S/v. 

ti-  . ■■;      ■ 

our  rommoii  ^tock  ofpomlH  fur  irndr  with  ilic  In.  I      Tim  next  dny  wr.  nmdr  .\\m\it  \')  milfn  thruiiKh 

dinnn.     The  rr^nlt  (if  iIiih  rx  imlinlioii  w.nn,  llial  llir  mud  niid  r.iiii,  nnd  Htoppcd  fnr  Ihi"  nighl  near 

wn  dill  riiiinid  In  rcniim   licrr  a  ulnli'  nnd  noiid  |  ii  wililnry  trrr  iiixiii  ihr  liink  of  a  xmnll  tributary 

buck  to  llii   Kaii/aiis  ImiIi:iii   mill  I'nr -''10  pouniU  i  of  the    [iomdi  river.     Mrrr   fortune  favorrd  our 

of  lloiir.     We   well   imlii I  to  lake  lliiH  Kleji  liy  i  fiisl-deprcnHiirr  larder.  •  liie  of  the  eoinp.iny  killed 

nMiiriineoH  rrecived  Iriiiii  eertnin  IrailorM  whom  wr  ii    liirlle,    wliieli     fiirnii'lied     iin  nil   nil  txrellrnt 

nift  I'oiiiiinf  from  llie  iiiiiiiMlaiiiH,  that  llie  InilVnlo  i  mipper.     'I'Iiih  waH  llic  indy  jfaiii'  of  any  diwrip- 

hid    not    iiilvaiired  so  l:ir  north  ;m  In  fiiniiHli  iiit  .  lion  lliiil  we  liiid  neeii   Kinec  lea   iii|r  the  fnmlicr. 


with  their  riiie  liuinp.nliH  iih  cirlv  liy  a  week  or 
lortiii^;lit  IIH  we  had  rxpi  eted.  (l|Vii'ern  wercnlBo 
ehoHiii  mid  their  pnwirH  ili  lined  ;  and  whatever 
leiHiire  we  loiiiid  friiiii  the^e  ihiliiH  diirini;  u  larry 
of  two  dil^H,  w  :iH  Hpeiil  in  re^jidiiiLj  iiiir>.<'lveH  with 
htrawlierni  H  ;ind  (roosehi  rrnH,  wliii  h  (,'riw  in  (;rcal 
idinndiiiiee  iieur  niir  euiiip. 

Dm  Irii  iiiIk  liavmif  retinniMl  from  llio  mill  with 
the  llniir  liir  wliieli  i  lad  Imi  ii  <le8|i.ilelicd,  we 
left  Kim  (irove  lai  Hie  .iii  f  .liine,  traveled  iiliinir 
the  .Santa  I'e  Ir.iil  alHiii,  .  .iiiIcm,  and  i  ni'am|MMl 
upon  a  hiu'li  knoll,  rroin  which  we  had  an  exlen. 
hivr  view  of  ilie  Hiirp.  .niliii!;  plains.  The  i;ra8K 
was  now  alioiit  :.eir  inelie-  in  Infill,  and  lieni  and 


On  the  Till,  UN  llie  sun  wan  Botlinj;,  we  rniehrd 
OHaL'e  Kiver — a  Hlreain  wliieh  empties  into  lllo 
.MinKiiiiri  helow  Jellirwin  City.  'I'lir  |Hiint  whore 
we  Nlniek  it,  wiin  IUII  inilcH  HoiilhwrKi  of  IndriH'ii. 
denee.  We  pilclied  our  lenl  Hnii(,'lv  hy  a  I'opmiof 
w'lKiil  within  It  few  yarilH  (•!  it  ;  Hiaked  down  our 
iimmalH  near  at  hand,  nnd  prepared  nnd  ate  iiitllO 
usual  foriii.  our  evenini;  repiiHl.  Our  eompnny 
wa.-.  divided  into  two  mewKH,  M'ven  In  one,  and 
ii(llit  in  the  iillirr.  (In  the  (rround,  with  CBch  n 
lin  pint  eiip  and  a  Ninall  round  plale  of  the  nnnin 
inatriial ;  the  lirsl  lilleil  with  eotf»i',  Ipn,  or  wa- 
ter, the  last  with  fried  side  haenn  nnddiiu(;h  fried 
111  fat;  eaeli    with  a  hiiteher.knifii  in  hand,  and 


re  Inly   iH'auty  under  llie  (JUsIh  of  '  each  iiieHH  oiltini;,  tiiilor-like.  around  itH  own  fry- 


rose  III   inoiil 

wind  that  at  iiitervals  sw.  ,il  o'  •  r  it.  We  reniiin- 
ed  here  a  ilay  and  ii  half,  wailiiii;  for  two  of  our 
niindier  who  hid  |roiie  in  M'areli  of  a  horse  that 
had  left  om  eneampiiieiit  at  Kim  (irove.  The 
tune,  however,  pnsseil  a(jreeahlv.  We  were,  in- 
deed,  lieyond  tlic  .saneluarieH  ol  Hoeiety.  nnd  wv- 
ered  Irom  the  kind  |iiilsalioiiH  of  friendship;  hut 
tlir  spirit  of  the  Keii  .Man,  wild  and  rrireless  ns 
Ihe  storms  he  liiitVels,  U^an  toeiiine  over  us;  and 


ini;'pan,  rntini;  with  Ihe  ap|M'llte  of  ti(rora,  wni, 
perhaps,  the  tMite.ensemhle  oiour  company  at  ■up- 
per oil  till'  huiiki  of  the  ()Ha);e. 

There  were  encamped  near  iih  dome  wagonfini  on 
on  their  return  to  Miswjuri,  who  had  liren  out  to 
Couneil  (irove  willithe  proyiBioiiHand  that  pqrt  of 
the  (tooiIh  of  the  .Santa  Fe  tradrm,  wliieh  the  trntns 
of  untrained  iiiuleii  had  liren  iinnhle  to  draw  when 
they  left  Iiidepeiideiice.  Willi  iheHeiiien  wepuuHcd 
wp  sliouhli  red  our  rilles  and   irallnjM'il  nwuy  for  a  i  a  v-ry  aurei'iihle  eveiiinj; !    they  ainiiHrd  lis  with 


deer  in  the  lines  of  liinher  thai  threaded  tlii' west- 
ern liori/oii.  Onrlirsl  liiinl  in  llii  depths  of  the 
lieaiiliriil  and  dr  ailliil  v  ilderuessl  It  was  alleiid. 
ed  with  no  siieeess ;  Imi  was  worth  the  elVort. — 
We  had  heiriiii  to  hiiiil  our  fooil. 

In  llie  afliriioon  ol  the  llli.  our  friends  relnriied 
with  the  strayed  animals.  'I'iie  keepers  iimnedi. 
ntely  tired  the  siirnal-dun?.  and  ull  wc  re  mmiii  in 
rump.  Our  road  on  lln  ."illi  was  Ihrou;;!!  a  rieh, 
level  prairie,  elolheil  with  the  wild  (fruns  eoinmon 
to  the  plains  of  the  West.  .V  skirt  of  hlaek  oak 
tiiiiher  oeeasioiially  lined  the  hori/.oii  or  slrayeil 
up  a  deep  ravine  near  the  trail.  The  extreme  eare 
of  the  pioneiTH  III  the  overland  Santa  l"e  trade  was 

every  where  nolieiahle,  in  tlii!  fait  that  the  track  j  near  the  fire,  and,  with  the  most  iinpcrturboblc 
ol  their  rielily-loadcil  waijoiiH  iievnT  approached  }  eulmncss,  commenced  Hiiiokiui;  the  eoiii|)ound  of 
within  inuskcl-shol  of  these  |«iiils  of  tinilMr.  Fif.  ^  willow. bark  and  tobacco  with  which  they  are 
teen  miles'  inarch  liroii;rlil  us  to  rnir  place  of  en-  \  wont  to  resale  Ihciiisrlvcs.  When  wc  Iclt  the 
runipiuent.  A  cerlain  portion  of  llie  Company  ground,  one  of  the  men  threw  away  a  pair  of  old 
.Tnottcd  to  lliat  lalmr,  unpacked  the  ('oinpaiiy'ij  boots,  the  soles  of  which  were  fuHtened  with  iron 
mules  of  the  coimuon-stoek  pnjperly,  provisions,  I  nails.  t)ur  savage  viBilers  seized  upon  them  with 
aininuiiilions,  &,o. ;  another  [lorlioii  pilclied  t)ic  |  the  greatest  eagerness,  and  in  their  pantominic 
tent;  iinolher  gathered  wood  and  kiiiijled  a  lire ;  language,  aided  hy  harsh,  guttural  grunlB,  CJn- 
wliilc  otliers  hioiiijht  water,  und  still  others  put  grutulated  themselves  upon  iK'coining  the  posscK- 
seelhing.pols  iiiid  liyiiig-|>aiiK  lo  their  appropriate  i  sors  of  so  iiiuch  wealth.  At  8  o'cljck  wo  were 
duties.     .So  that  at  this,  as  at  other  times  liefore    on  inarch. 


yarns  of  mouiitain-lif'  which  Irom  time  to  lirne  hod 
tloated  in,  and  formed  Ihe  tire-side  legi  nds  oi  ihat 
wild  iHirder.  In  the  iiioriiing,  while  wc  wcro 
saddling  onr  :inim-ils,  two  of  Ihe  Kauzaiii  IndiaiiH 
came  within  a  lew  rods  of  ..iir  camp,  nnd  waited 
for  an  invitalioii  to  approach.  They  were  armed 
with  iimsketB  and  knives,  'i'lie  inanner  of  car- 
rying their  firearms  was  peculiar,  and  strongly 
eharaclcrihtic  of  Indian  ca.ition.  The  breech  wan 
held  in  the  right  hand  and  the  Imrrcl  rested  on  the 
left  arm  ;  thus  they  are  always  prepared  to  tire. — 
They  watched  us  narrowly,  a8  if  to  ascertain 
whether  we  were  friends  or  foes;  and,  upon  our 
inakiuir  signs  lo  them  lo  approach,  they  lookscatN 


und   after,   a  few   miinites   transposed   our   little 
eavalcadc  from  a   moving   trixip   into  an  eating. 


'I'he  morning  breezes  were  bland,  and  a  thou- 
sand young  flowers giinincd  the  grassy  plains.     It 


drinking  and  joyous  eainii.  A  ihunder-slorm  vis.  ,  seemed  as  if  the  tints  of  a  brighter  sky  nnd  the 
iled  us  diinng  the  night.  The  lightning  was  in-  ]  increasing  beauty  of  the  cartli  were  lifting  the 
tensely  vivid,  .mil  the  cKplosions  were  singularly  1  clouds  from  the  future  and  Bhedding  vigor  upon 


freipieiit  and  loud.  The  sides  of  the  heavens 
warred  like  conteiiiliui.^  batteries  in  deadly  conflict. 
The  rain  came  in  Hoods ;  and  our  tent,  not  U'ing 
ditched  around,  was  flooded  booh  after  the  com- 
meiicemenl  of  the  storm,  and  ourselves  and  bag- 
gage thoroughly  dreii'-hed. 


our  hopes.  But  tliii'  illusion  lived  hula  moment. 
Three  of  my  valuable  men  had  determined  to  ac- 
company the  wagoiierB  to  the  Stales.  And  as  they 
filed  olVand  bade  adieu  to  the  enterprise  in  whieli 
they  had  embarked,  and  blighted  many  cheering 
expectations  of  Bocial  uitcicoursc  along  our  weary 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


way-faring  to  Oregon,  tin  c,\prr8Pion  of  deep  dis. ' 
coiirafrempnt  shnrlrd  cvpry  fair.  But  it  was  of 
»hort  duration.  'J'lic  drtcrniinalion  to  prnetnile 
tlie  vallrys  of  Orrgon  soon  swrpl  away  rvcry  f<'<l- 
itig  of  depression  ;  and,  two  lunitorH  being  pent  lor. 
ward  to  repleniiili  our  larder,  we  traveled  hapjiily 
onward. 


tlio  nercRBity  wliicli  we  supposed  exiisted  of  keep- 
ing a  flinrp  look-out  among  ilH  green  rr<-ChseB  lor 
till'  lurking  savage.  Tliif  grove  is  tlie  Northern 
limit  of  tlie  wanderings  of  the  C'umanches — a  tribe 
of  Indians  who  make  their  home  on  the  rich  plams 
along  the  Western  Ixirdeis  of  the  Heptdilic  of 
Texas.  Their  ten  thousand  warriors,  their  incoin- 


The  Osage  River  at  this  plaee  is  100  yards  wide,  '  parable  horsemanship,  their  terrible  charge,  the 


with  about  S.J  feet  water.  Its  banks  are  elollicd 
with  tiinber  of  eotton-wood,  >\yh  andhiekoiy.  We 
eroRsed  it  at  8  in  the  morning;  passed  through 
the  groves  which  border  it  :  and  eontinned  to  lol. 
low  the  .Sant.1  I'e  trail.  The  portion  of  rouulrv 
over  wliich  it  ran  to-day.  was  imdulating  and 
beautiful  ;  the  soil  rich,  very  deep,  and  intersect. 
rd  by  three  small  streams,  whieli  appeared  from 
their  eourses  to  be  tributaries  of  tlie  C>sa[Te.  -\t 
night-fall,  we  found  ourselves  upon  a  bight  over- 
looking a  beautiful  grove.  This  we  supposed  to 
be  Council  Grove.  On  the  swell  of  the  hill  were 
the  remains  of  an  old  Kauzaus  encampment.  A 
beautiful  clear  spring  gushed  out  I'lom  the  rock 
below.  The  whole  was  so  inviting  to  iis,  weary 
and   hungry  as  we  were,  that   w,'  determined  to 


uiicqualed  rapidity  with  which  they  load  and  dis- 
charge  their  lire-arms,  and  their  insatiable  hatred, 
make  their  enmity  more  fearful  than  that  of  any 
other  tribe  of  aliorigines.  yortuuately  for  us,  how- 
ever, these  Spartans  of  the  plains  did  not  appear; 
and  right  merrily  did  we  cross  the  little  s,ivannah 
between  it  and  Coimcil  (Jrove — a  lieautil'ul  lawn 
of  till!  wilderness  ;  some  of  the  men  hoping  for  the 
sweets  of  the  bee-tree  ;  others  lirir  a  shot  at  a  tur- 
key or  a  deer,  and  still  others  that  among  the 
drcmj)ing  boughs  and  silent  glades  might  be  found 
the  panting  loins  of  a  stately  ''Ik. 

Council  (Irovc  derives  its  name  from  the  prac- 
tice among  the  traders,  from  the  eominencemcnt 
of  the  overland  commcree  with  the  Mexican  do- 
minions, of  assembling  there  for  the  appointment 


make  our  bed  for  the  night  on  the  spot.    Accord-    of  otTiceis  and  the  establisbmentof  rules  and  regu- 


ingly,  wc  fired  signal-guns  for  the  hunters,  pitclird 
our  tents,  broke  up  the  boughs  which  bad  been 
used  by  the  Indians  in  building  their  wigwams, 
for  fuel,  and  proceeded  to  cook  our  supper.  'I'his 
encampment  was  made  by  the  Kauzaus  sixjears 
agq,  when  on  their  way  .^oiith  to  their  annual 
buffalo-hunt.  A  semi.eircular  piece  of  ground 
was  enclosed  by  the  outer  lodges.  TiiC  area  was 
fdlcd  with  wigwams  built  in  straight  lines  run- 
ning from  the  diameter  to  the  circumference. — 
Tlicy  were  constructed  in  the  following  manner : 
Boughs  of  aliout  two  inches  in  diameter  were  in. 
serted  by  thi^ir  butts  in  the  ground,  and  witlied 
together  at  the  top  in  an  arched  form.  Over 
these  were  spread  blankets,  skins  of  the  butValo, 
&.C.  Fires  were  built  in  front  of  each  ;  the  grass 
beneath,  covered  w  ith  skins,  made  a  delightful 
couch,  and  the  Indian's  home  was  complete. — 
Several  yards  from  the  outer  semi-eircular  row  of 
lodges  and  parallel  to  it,  wc  found  large  stakes 
driven  firmly  into  tlie  earth  lor  the  puqiose  of  se- 
curing their  horses  during  the  night.  We  appro- 
priated to  ourselves,  without  hesitation,  whatever 
we  found  here  of  earth,  wood  or  water  that  could 
be  useful  to  us,  and  were  soon  very  comfortable. 
About  9  o'clock  our  signal-guns  were  answered  by 
the  return  of  our  hunters.  They  had  scoured  the 
country  all  day  in  quest  of  game,  but  found  none. 
Our  hopes  were  somewhat  depressed  bv  this  result. 
We  had  but  100  pount-'s  of  flour  and  one  side  of 
bacon  left ;  and  the  bull'alo,  bv  the  best  estimates 
we  could  make,  were  still  300  miles  distant.  The 
country  between  us  and  these  animals,  too,  being 
constantly  scoured  by  Indian  liuutrrs,  aflbrdcd  us 
but  little  prospect  of  obtaining  otlur  game.  We 
did  not,  however,  dwell  very  minutely  upon  the 
evils  that  might  await  us ;  but  having  put  our- 
selves on  short  allowances  and  looked  at  our 
horses  as  the  means  of  preventing  starvation,  we 
Bought  rest  for  the  fatigues  of  the  next  day's  march. 
In  the  morning  we  moved  down  the  hill.  Our 
way  lay  directly  through  the  little  grove  already 
referred  to;  and,  however  we  might  have  ailmired 
it»  freshness  and  beauty,  we  were  diterred    Ifom 


lations  to  govern  their  march  'rough  the  danger- 
ous country  South  nf  it.  They  first  elect  their 
("ommander-in-Chief  His  duty  is  to  appoint  sub- 
ordinate leaders  and  to  divide  the  owners  and  men 
into  watelus,  and  to  assign  them  tlielr  several 
hours  of  duty  in  guarding  the  camp  during  the  re- 
mainder of  their  perilous  journey.  He  also  divides 
the  caravan  into  two  parts,  each  of  which  forms 
a  column  when  on  march.  In  these  lines  he  as- 
signs each  team  the  place  in  which  it  must  always 
be  found.  Having  arranged  these  several  matters, 
the  Council  breaks  up;  and  the  Commander,  with 
the  guard  on  duty,  moves  olT  inadvaiiceto  select 
tiie  track  .ind  anticipate  approaching  danger. — 
Alter  this  guard  the  head  teams  of  each  column 
lead  otV  aliout  thirty  leet  apart,  and  the  others  fob 
low  in  regular  lines;  rising  and  dipping  glorious- 
ly ;  2(10  men,  101)  wagons,  800  mules;  shoutings 
and  whippings,  and  whistlings  and  cheerings,  are 
all  there;  and,  amidst  them  all.  the  hardy  Vunkees 
move  iiappily  onward  to  the  siege  of  the  minesof 
.Montezuma.  Several  objects  are  gained  by  tliis 
arrangement  of  the  wagons.  If  they  arc  attacked 
on  march  by  the  Cumanehc  cavalry  or  other  foes, 
the  leading  teams  file  to  the  right  and  left  and 
close  the  front;  and  the  hindermost,  by  a  similar 
movement,  close  the  rear ;  and  thu.<  they  form 
an  oblong  rampart  of  wagnn.s  laden  with  cotten 
goods  that  efl'ectually  shiel.'s  teams  and  men  from 
the  small  arms  of  the  Indians.  The  sam;  ar- 
rangement is  made  when  tl.cy  halt  for  the  night. 

Within  the  area  thus  formed  are  tmt,  after  they 
arc  fed,  many  of  the  more  valuable  horses  and 
oxen.  The  remainder  of  th- animals  are  'staked' 
— that  is.  tied  to  stakes,  at  a  distance  of  20  or  30 
yards,  around  the  line.  Tiie  ropes  by  which  they 
are  fastened  are  from  30  to  -(O  feet  in  length,  and 
the  stakes  to  which  they  are  attached  are  care, 
fully  driven  at  such  distances  ajiart  as  shall  pre- 
vent   their  being  ent.iiigled    one  with  another. — 

Among  the-  ■  animals  tJie  guard  on  duty  is  sta- 
lioned,  standing  motionless  near  them  or  crouch- 
ing so  as  to  discover  every  moving  spot  upon  tlie 
horizon  of  night.     The  reasons  ataigned  for  tliis, 


entering  into  the  full  enjoyment  of  the  scene  by  i  by  those  who  urc  wise  in  such  matters,  arc  that  a 


in  the  Hotky  Mounta'tns,  the  Oregon  Terrilery,  4'C. 


■xistcd  of  keep. 

•  n  rrooHscs  (or 
»  llir  Norlhcni 
mcluH — a  irihe 

till- ricli  plains 

•  Kcpiililic  of 
s,  thrir  incom. 
If  oliarjTo,  tlio 

load  and  din. 

atial.lcliatiod, 
1111  that  of  any 

ly  for  us,  how- 
id  not  appear; 
ittip  K.tvaiinuh 
iH-autifiil  lawn 

hojiingforlhe 

sliot  at  a  inr. 
It  among  the 
iii^ht  l)c  Ibund 

^rom  the  piac 
minii  npcmont 
■  Mexican  do. 
!  appointment 
iilcH  and  rrgn. 
;h  the  danger, 
ret  ileot  tlieir 
a  appoint  sub. 
iierH  and  men 
tiieir   several 
during  there. 
[e  also  dividrj 
whirli  forms 
f  lines  lie  as. 
I  imist  always 
veral  mailers, 
inlander,  witli 
aiicc  to  select 

ig  danger 

fach  eolumn 
he  otlicrs  fol. 
ling  glorioiiB. 
s;  slioulingH 
lieerings,  are 
rdy  Yankees 
the  mincBof 
lined  by  tliis 
arc  attacked 
)r  other  foes, 
nd  left  and 
by  a  similar 
>  they  form 
witli  cotten 
nd  men  from 
e   sanu  ar. 
ir  the  night, 
t,  after  they 
liorseB  and 
are  'staked' 
of  20  or  30 
wiiich  they 
length,  and 
J    are  care. 
»  eliall  pre. 

another 

duty  i«  sta. 
or  crouch. 
)f  upon  the 
ed  for  tfiis, 
,  we  that  a, 


guard  in   motion  would  lie   discovero<l  and  firrd ! 
upon  by  the  caution!-'    iiavii<re    befoie  liis  presence  i 
could  lie  known  ;  and  f.irtlnr.  tinil    it  is  iMijiossi. 
blc  to  (liwern  the  appioacli  of  an  liidiai,  crceiiiii^' 
among  the  grass  in  the  dark,  inilcss  the  cnc  of  (lie 
observer  be  m)  close  to  the  ^noiiiid  as  to  bring  llic  | 
whole  surt'aee  lying  within  the  range  of  vision  be- ' 
tween  it    and  liie  line   of  light   aiiiimd  the  lower 
edge  of  the  horizon      If  the  camp  be  attacked,  the  ! 
guard  fire  and  retreat  to  i  le  wagons.     'I'ln;  whole, 
body  then  take  ]iosilioiis  lor  ilcfence  ;   at  one  timet 
sallying  out,    rescue  the'r  animals  IVoni  the  grasp; 
of  the  Indians;  and  at  another,  concealed  behind 
their  wagons,  load  and  lire  ii|ion  the  inlriidird  with  ' 
all  possible  skill    and  rapnli'y.     Au'l    many  v.<  re  : 
the  bloody  battles  fought  on  lii-  '  tr,(il,'  and  such 
were  some  of  ihe  anxielii  s   and  diMiircrs  that  at. '. 
tended  and  still   alteiid  the  'Santa    Ii'  'rradi-.' — 
And  many  are  the  gravcsalonir  llietrack.<if  those 
who  have  fallen  liclore  the  terrible  cavalry  of  tl,-! 
Cunianches.     'I'liey  slumber  alone  in   this  ocean  I 
of  plains.     Xo  tears  bedew  their  ijravcs.     No  la. 
ment  of  atVcction  breaksthc  stillnessof  tlieirtoinb. 
The  tramj)  of  savage  horsemen — Ihedeei)  bellow. 
ing  of  the  butlalo — the  ni;.'htly  howl  of  tliehinifrry 
wolf — the  storms  that   sweep  down    at  midniiilit 
from  the  groaning  caverns ot  the  'shining  bights;" 
or,  when  Nature  is  in  a  tender  niooil,  the  sweet 
breeze   that    seems   to    wliispi  r   among  the  wild 
flowers  that  nod  over  his  dust  in  the  spring — sav 
to  the  dead,  "  Von  are   alone;    no  kindnd  boiics 
moulder  at  you.'  side." 

We  traversed  ( ■oiincil  f irove  with  the  ranie  cau- 
tion and  in  the  same  manner  as  W(  had  the  other, 
a  plat(X)n  of  four  persons  in  advance  to  sec  tln' 
first  appearance  of  an  ambuscade;  behind  these 
the  pack  animals  and  their  drivers  ;  on  each  side 
an  unincumbered  horseman  ;  in  the  n  ar  a  platoon 
of  four  men,  all  on  the  look.ont,  silent,  with 
rifles  lying  on  the  saddles  in  front,  steadilv  wind- 
ing along  the  path  that  the  heavy  wamjiisol  Ibe 
traders  had  niadeamoni;'  ihe  matted  under-brush. 
In  this  manner  we  marched  half  a  mill'  and 
emerged  from  the  (irov<'  at  a  place  where  the  gen- 
tlemen traders  had  a  few  days  before  held  llieir 
council.  The  grass  in  the  vicinity  had  been 
gnawed  to  the  earth  by  their  numerous  animal." ; 
their  fires  still  smouldering  and  smokintr  ; 

and  the  rul^  .n  the  road  were  fresh.  These  indi- 
cations of  our  vicinity  to  the  great  body  of  the 
traders  produced  an  exhilaratin;;  efl'eet  on  our 
spirits  ;  and  we  drove  merrily  away  aloii!.''  the  trail. 
cheered  with  renewed  hojies  that  we  should  ovi-r. 
take  our  countrymen  and  be  saved  from  starvation. 

The  grove  that  wc  were  now  leaving  was  the 
largest  and  most  beautiful  that  we  had  passed 
since  leaving  the  frontier  of  the  States.  The  tn  es. 
maple,  ash,  hickory. black  walnut,  oaks  of  several 
kinds,  butternut,  and  a  great  variety  of  shrubs 
clothed  with  the  sweet  Ibliage  of  ,lunc — a  pure 
stream  of  water  murnmrinu  along  a  gravelly  bot- 
tom, and  the  songs  of  the  robin  and  thrush,  made 
Council  (irove  a  source  of  delighls  to  us,  akin  to 
those  that  warm  the  hearts  of  I'ilgrims  in  the 
great  denertB  of  the  F.ast,  when  they  behold  iVimi 
the  hills  of  scorching  sands  the  green  thorn. tree 
and  the  waters  of  the  Imbbling  spring.  For  wc  also 
were  pilgrims  in  a  land  destitute  of  the  means  of 
subsistence  ;  with  a  morsel  only  of  meat  and 
bread  per  day  ;  lonely  und  liungry  ;  and  although  i 


wc  were  among  the  irrassy  plains  instead  of  sandy 
wastes,  we  had  fri'ezinir  storms,  temjicsts,  torna- 
does of  lijilitninii  and  hail,  which,  if  not  similar 
in  the  ineaiis.  were  certainly  c(pial  to  the  sand- 
storms of  the  (Jreal  .Sahara  in  the  amount  of  (lis. 
conifort  tlu'v  produced. 

Hut  we  were  leavin'r  the  (jrove  and  the  protec- 
tion it  might  yield  to  us  in  such  disagrcealili'  cir- 
eiimslances.  On  the  slinili'ess  plain  again  I  To 
our  right  the  ])rriirie  rose  ^radii  illy,  and  stretched 
away  for  ten  miles,  forming  .-i  beautiful  horizon. 
The  whole  was  cnvcn'd  with  a  line  coat  of  grass 
a  foot  ill  hiiilit,  which  was  at  this  season  ol  the 
deepest  and  ricbi'sl  irreen.  Itehind  us  lay  a  dark 
line  of  liuilH'r,  reaebiiuf  Irom  Ihe  (Jrove  lar  into 
the  eastern  limits  olsitjhl,  till  the  leafy  tdpsseeined 
to  wave  .'iiid  mingle  among  the  grass  of  the 
wil(l  swelling  meadows.  The  eves  were  ])ained 
in  endeavoring  to  embrace  the  view.  A  sense  of 
vastiiess — beautil'iil  vastncss — was  the  single  and 
so'e  conception  of  the  mind  ! 

Near  this  grove  are  someiulerrsliug  Indian  ru- 
ins. Tl)e\  consist  of  a  cnllectiou  of  dilapidated 
mounds,  seeming  to  indicate  the  truth  of  the 
legenil  of  the  tribes  ivliieh  savs  that  lormcrly  this 
was  the  Holy  ground  of  the  nations,  where  tliey 
were  accusloined  to  meet  to  adjust  their  difficul- 
ties and  ex.'haiure  the  salutalious  of  peace  and  ce- 
ment the  bonds  of  union  with  smoking  and  dan. 
ciiitr  and  ]>rayei's  to  the  (Jreat  .Spirit. 

We  had  advnncc<l  a  few  miles  in  the  open  coun- 
try, when  we  discovered,  on  the  sunumt  to  the 
richt,  a  small  band  of  Indians.  They  proved  to 
be  a  partv  of  Caws  or  Kauzaus.  An  soon  as  they 
discovered  our  approach,  two  of  tl'.em  started  in 
dill'erent  diieclions  at  the  top  of  their  speed,  to 
spread  the  news  of  our  arrival  among  the  remote 
members  of  the  party.  The  remainder  urged  on 
with  all  practical  velocity  their  pack-horses  laden 
willi  iiKiit.  skins,  blankets,  and  other  parapher- 
nalia of  a  biintinir  excursion.  We  pursued  our 
way.  inakiii!:;  no  demonstrations  of  any  kind,  un- 
til one  oil!  brave  lelt  bis  party,  came  towards  us, 
and  stationing  himself  be^:ide  our  path,  awaited 
our  near  approach.  He  stood  bolt  u|)right  and 
motionless.  -\s  we  advanced,  we  noted  closely 
bis  appearance  and  position.  He  had  no  cloth- 
inn;,  save  a  blanket  tied  over  the  left  shoulder  and 
drawn  under  the  rijxhl  arm.  His  bead  was  sha. 
veil  cntirily  liare.  with  the  e.veeption  of  a  tuft  of 
hair,  about  two  inches  in  width,  extending  from 
the  centre  of  the  occiput  over  the  middle  of  the 
head  to  the  forehead.  It  was  short  and  coarse, 
and  stood  erect,  like  the  comb  of  a  cock.  His 
figure  was  the  perfection  of  physical  beauty.  It 
was  live  li'ct  nine  or  ten  inches  in  bight,  and  looked 
the  Indian  in  every  thing.  He  stood  by  the 
roadside,  apparently  perfectly  at  ease;  and  seemed 
to  regard  all  surroimdiug  objects  with  .as  much 
interest  as  lie  did  us.  This  every  body  knows  iy 
a  disiiniiuishing  characteristic  of  the  Indian.  If 
a  Iwilt  of  thunder  eoiii.!  iie  embodied  and  put  in 
living  form  before  their  eyes,  it  would  not  startle 
them  from  their  gravity.  .So  stood  our  savage 
fiiend,  to  all  appearance  unaware  of  our  approach. 
Not  a  muscle  of  his  Irody  or  face  moved,  untd  I 
lode  up  and  prolTered  iiim  a  friendly  hand.  This 
lie  seized  eagerly,  and  continued  to  shake  it  very 
warmly,  uttering  meanwhile,  with  great  empha- 
sis and  rapidity,  the  words  "  How   de,"    "how," 


10 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


"how."     Ab   soon    ns  one  individual  hud  with- 
drawn his  hand  Iriini  his  frasp.  In'  passed  to  ano. 
thcr,  rcpratinjf   tlip   sanir  procrss  and  lliu  same 
words.  From  thr  carcl'id  watch  wc  lia<l  krptiipon 
his  niovrniciits  since   he  look   his  station,  we  had 
noticed  that  a  very   dchcalc  operation   had    hern 
pcrl'onncd  npnn  the  lock  of  his  irnn.     ."^onKiliiii^r 
had  licen  warily  removed   lhcr<'lriini,   and  shppeil 
into  the  leathern  pouch  worn  at  his  side.      U'.'e.v. 
lu'cled,  therefore,  that   the  nover.failin'.'  appeal  to 
our  charities  wonld  he  made   for  somrlliinir ;  and  j 
in  this  wc  wore  not  <lisappoinle<l.     .As  soon  as  the  i 
grcetiu'^s  wore  over,  lie  showed  lis,  with  the  most  i 
solicitous  (re^tures.  lli.it    his  |)iece  had  no  Hint. —  [ 
Wo   furnished    him  with  one;  and  he  then  sijrni-  | 
(lod  to  us  that  he  would    lik<'  sometliini;  to  put  in  i; 
the  pan  and  liarrel  ;  and  liavinu;  ijiven  him  some,  ji 
tliinij  of  all.  he  de|>arted  at  the  rai>id  swiiijrinjgait  r 
so  piTuliar  to  his  race. 

As  wc  advanced,  the  pr.-.irie  liecamc  inorr  gen.  I 
tly  nmhdalinif.     'I'lie   heaving  ridtres  which  ha<l  i 
made  our  trail  thus  far,  appear  to  passover  an  ini-  ! 
mense  sea,  the  hillowsof  which  had  been  clianjred  1 
to    wavins;    meadows,    the  instant    thev    had  es.  | 
capcd   I'rom    tin'  endiraces   of  the   tempest,   {rave  | 
place  to  wide  and  (fentle  swells,    scarcelv  pcrcep.  | 
tihlc  over  the    increased    expanse  in  siiriit.     'IVn  1 
miles  on  the  dav's  march  ;  the  animals  wc  re  tujj. 
gin;;  lustdy  thronu'li  the  mud.    when   the  advance 
guard  shouted  "  Klk  1    E'dk"  a.ld  "steaks  hroiled'' 
Knd  "rihs  hoilcd"  anil  "  marrow  hones"  and  "no 
more  Inmin-rl'"  "  ( )re!.'on  for  ever,  starve  or  live," 
as  an  a|)pointed  inmiher  of  my  eompnnions  tiled 
otV  to  the  chase.  I 

The  hunters  circled  nroimd  thejmint  of  tlicshar])  | 
ridce  on  which  the  HIk  were  fecdin<r.  in  order  to  j 
hrin<r  them    hetween   themselves    and    the  wind:' 
and  layinp;  closely  to  their    horses'    necks,   they  ] 
rode  slowly  and    silently    up  the   ravine    towards  1 
them.     W  hilc    thes'  niovenients  were    makinij, 
the  cavalcade  moved  iiuietly   alonu   the   trail  for 
Ihcpuriiose  of  divertinf;  the  attention  of  tlic  Elk 
from  the  hunters.     .And  thus  were  the  latter  eu;i- 
liled  to  a])pro;ic]i  within   three    hundred    yards  of 
the  came  he|Vir<'  thev  were  discovered.      Hut  the 
instant — that  awful  instant  to  our  (ruawing  appe- 
tites— the  instant  that  they  ]M'rceived  the  eroucli. 
injr  forms  of  their  pursuers  nearintr  them,  tt.ssiii!:  j 
their  heads  in  the  air,  and  snutliui_'  disdainfully  at  i 
such  attempt  In  deceive  their  wakeful  senses,  Ihey 
put  hoof  to  turf  in  line  style.  The  Imnters  attem|)t- 
ed  pursuit  ;   lint  havin;;  to  ascend  one  side  of  the  i 
ridLTi',  while  the  F.Ik  in  their  tliirht  descended  the  I 
other,  they  were  at  least    four  liundred   vards  (lis-  | 
lant  helVire  the  lirsl  hullel  whistled  after  them. —  | 
None    killed  1   none  1     -\nd    we   were    ohiiired  to 
console  our  him'j;er  with  the  hope  that  three  hun- 
ters who  had  hieii  despatched  ahead  this  morninir. 
would  meet  with  more    success.     We  encamped 
soon  after  this  tninnevof  ill  luck — ate  one  of  the 
last  morsels  of  fund  that    rem.ained — jiitclied  our 
tent,  stationed  the  lULdit  (iiiard.  \c.,  and,  laliirned 
and  faniishi'd.  stretched  ourselves  within  it. 

On  Ihefollowinifdav  we  made  twenty. five  miles 
over  a  prairie  nearly  level, and  occasionally  marshy. 
In  the  al'ternoon  we  were  favored  with  what 
we  luid  scarcelv  liiiled.  for  asinsjledav  to  receive, 
since  the  coimnencemenl  of  our  journey,  viz  ;  all, 
several  and  sinjjnlar  tlii'  numerous  henefitsofa 
tiiuiidtr-storm,     Ab  wv  went  into  camp  at  night, 


the  fresh  ruts  along  the  trail  indic.itcd  the  near 
vicinity  of  some  of  the  Santa  Fe  teams.  No  sleep; 
spent  the  night  in  drying  ourdrenclicd  Iwdicsand 
elolhcR. 

( )n  the  1 0th  under  way  very  earlv  ;  and  traveled 
hriskly  alonij,  intendin^r  to  overtake  the  traderi* 
helore  nielli-fill  Miit  anollh-r  Ihunder.slorm  for 
a  while  arrested  the  proseculiou  of  our  desires. — 
It  was  aliniit  li  o'clock  when  a  hiack  cloud  arose 
in  the  south-east,  anollier  in  the  south-west,  and 
still  another  in  the  nnrlli-cast  ;  and  involvinj;  and 
evolvin;;-  tliemselves  hke  lliose  that  ai;eompany 
loruadfies  of  oilier  eoimlries,  the'-  rose  with  awful 
rapidity  lowirds  the  zemlh.  Mavin^  nujinh'd 
their  dreadlul  masses  over  our  heads,  for  a  mo- 
ment they  slnitrt;led  so  lerrilieally  that  the  winds 
appeared  liushid  at  the  voice  of  their  dread  artil. 
lery — a  moment  of  din  lid  battle;  and  yet  not  a 
lireath  of  wiiul.  We  looked  up  for  the  eomingof 
the  ealaslroplie  fori'told  hv  the  awful  slillncKH ; 
and  behold  the  cloud,  rent  in  fraifineuts.  hy  the 
most  terrilic  explosion  of  electricity  we  had  ever 
witnessed.  .And  then,  as  if  every  enerjjy  of  the 
destroyinir  elements  had  been  roused  hy  this 
mijrhly  <tl'orl,  peal  upfm  peal  ol'  thunder  rolle,! 
aroumi,  and  up  and  down  the  heavens;  and  th  • 
burniuif  bolts  leaped  from  cloiul  to  cloud  aer'/ss 
the  sky,  and  from  heaven  to  earth,  in  such  fcaclul 
rajiidity,  that  the  lurid  fjlare  of  one  had  sca'.celv 
lailen  on  the  sii,'ht,  when  another  followed  of  still 
fircaler  intensity.  The  senses  were  absolutely 
stunned  hy  the  conflict.  Our  animals,  partakiuif 
of  the  slupifyiii'j-  horror  tif  the  scene,  madly  hud- 
died  themselves  loifetliir,  and  became  innuovable. 
They  he'ded  neither  whip  nor  spur ;  but  with 
;  hacks  to  the  tempi  st  drooped  their  heads,  as  if 
waiting  their  dnom.  'I'lie  hail  and  rain  came  in 
torrents.  The  plains  were  converted  into  a  sea  : 
the  sky,  overtlowimj;  with  floods,  lifrhtcd  by  ii 
'  continual  blaze  of  electrii^  lire  1  the  creation  trem- 
bling at  I  lie  voice  of  the  warring  heavens  I  It  was 
such  a  scene  as  no  |)cn  can  adeipiatelv  deserihc. 

.After  the  violence  ol  the  storm  had  in  some  do- 
i  gree  abated,  we  |iursued  our  way,  weary,  celd  anil 
hungry,  .\bout  Ii  o'clock  we  overtook  a -lompany 
;  of  .Santa  I'e  trailers  commanded  by  f'aptain  Kelly. 
'I'he  gloom  of  the  aliuospliere  was  such  when  we 
aiiproaelied  his  camp,  that  Captain  K.  sup  losed 
us  Indians,  and  limk  measures  accordingly  to  dp- 
fend  himself.  Having  stationed  Ids  twenty-nine 
nil  n  witliiii  the  barricade  Ibrmed  hy  liis  wagons, 
he  liiinsell,  ai-coinpanied  by  a  siinjle  man,  came 
out  to  reconnoitre.  .And  he  was  not  less  agree- 
ably afl'eeted  to  find  us  whites  and  Iriends,  than 
were  we  at  the  prospect  of  societv  and  food. 
'I'raders  always  c'arry  a  supply  of  wood  over 
these  naked  plains,  and  it  may  be  supposed  that, 
dretudied  and  pelted  as  we  had  been  by  the  storm, 
we  did  not  hesitate  to  accept  the  otVer  of  their  fire 
to  cook  our  supper,  and  warm  ourselves,  lint  thn 
rain  continued  to  fall  in  cold,  shivering  floods; 
'  and.  fire  e.vei  jited,  we  might  as  well  have  been 
elsewhere  as  in  company  with  our  countrymen, 
who  were  as  badly  sliellerecl  and  led  as  ourselveH. 
'  We  therefore  cast  about  lor  our  own  means  of 
j  comfort.  -And  while  some  were  cooking  our 
j  morsel  of  supper,  otliers  staked  out  the  animals, 
;  others  pitched  our  tent;  and  all,  when  laskH 
!  were  done,  hudilled  under  its  shelter.  We  now 
I  numhered    thirteen.      This  quantity   of  hiimun 


I 


flesh 
diam 
heat 
some 
|)i  rs. 

SOUiJ 

bad 

ablei 

We 

lll'li 

iKiin 


mal: 

verv 

day ; 

llion 

llie 

as  u 

Ore;^ 


in  the  Bochj  Mountaiirs,  the  Oregon  Terrilori/,  c^r 


II 


^.itrd  the  nciir 
-aiiis.  NoHlccp; 
:licd  bodies  anil 

y ;  and  travrlrd 
ikc  the  lradt:ri< 
undd-.Ftorm  for 
1  iiiir  dcsircH. — 
n'k  cloud  aropr" 
oulli-wcst.  and 
I  iiivolviiifr  and 
at  ai'conipanv 
•'jsc  willi  awliil 
iving  niiiijrici 
ads,  (or  a  nio. 
tlial  the  winds 
lir  dread  anil, 
and  yot  not  a 
tin:  coniinfroC 
iwi'id  slillnpSH; 
minis,   by  the 

V  we  had  ever 
enerjry  of  tlio 

lused  l)y  iliis 
llinnder  rolle,! 
vens;  and  lb  • 
n  cloud  acr'iBB 
in  such  fearlul 

V  had  soa'.oelv 
)llowc(l  of  still 
TO  alisolulely 
lals.  partakiuif 
c.  madly  hud. 
lU-inunovablc. 
|)nr;  but  with 
•ir  licads,  as  it' 

rain  came  in 
■<l  into  a  sea  ; 
lighted  by  a 
•realiou  trcui. 
•(US  1  It  was 
y  deseribo. 
id  in  tomcdo- 
ary.  cold  and 
:k  a  .onipany 
aplain  Kelly, 
leh  when  we 
K.  sup  )osod 
•diufrly  to  dp. 
twcnly-ninc 
his  wafTons, 
man,  oamo 
lOt  less  njrrcr. 
triends,  than 
tv  and  food, 
wood  over 
upposed  thai, 
by  I  ho  slorui, 
T  ot  their  tire 
los.  Uut  Ihn 
•rinjr  Hoods  ; 
II  have  boon 
oountrymen, 
as  ourselves. 
ill  n'eans  (d' 
eookiujj  our 
the  animals, 
when  laskH 
I'.  ^Ve  no\v 
r   ol  hutnuii 


llesli,  slandinij  upon  an  area  of  eijrliteon  feet  in 
diameter,  ijave  oil' a  sullleirnl  (piaiilily  ot  animal 
heal  in  a  short  time  lo  render  our  Iremblin;';  lorms 
soniewhal  eomrortable.  We  ate  ..-'ir  scanty  sup- 
pirs.  drank  the  water  (Vom  tlie  puddles,  and 
souirht  r(sl.  Hut  all  our  p.ieks  luiu;,'  wet,  \vr 
had  no  ehau'ie  of  wardrobe  that  would  have  en. 
aided  us  to  have  doTie  so  with  a  hope  of  success. 
\Vi'  however  spread  our  wet  blaiduts  upon  the 
mud,  pot  our  saddles  mulrr  our  heads,  had  a  soni; 
Irom  o{ir  jolly  .loe,  a::;l  nnisod  and  shivered  until 
morniui,'. 

As  till'  suu  of  the  I. 'till  ruse,  we  drove  our  ani- 
nuds  li!roiij;li  t'oKouwdid  ereek.  It  had  been 
vciv  uMicli  swollen  liy  the  rains  nf  the  previous 
(lav;  and  oiu'  packs  and  ourselv(-s  were  again 
thnroM^■h^v  wet.  liut,  once  out  of  the  niin  anil 
the  daiitjers  of  the  Hood,  our  hearts  lieat  merrily 
as  we  lessened,  stop  by  step,  the  distance  from 
Oregon. 

IIIAI'TKR   II. 

Scarcity  nf  K-ifnt—An  Inri  li'ia  — Ii.i.iinfj  niui  I^IfatinB— 
M*-H-  «.  K*'iil  —  'I'rmlt — Liltic  Artnin^fts— A  N-iuht-iius 
Mi-al-'V  n,  1)1— An  Oiin-l— A  Ilnnl  Uhlp-Tli.- IJcliver 
am-.' — 'I'll*'  Arkagsai; — An  All-i,-k— i'l)*'  Si.njlil|i(!e  (il 
Deaili — Tlif  FfaM  amt  ii  liit  ol  I'liil'istiptiy — TUe  Tr.uleis 
VViilwiiilli  «';(!  Alvan'Z'ii  Teams— A  Kri(jtil— A  NnUiul  nl 
Ii.(liah>— 'i  hrir  ('anip  niid  Hums— A  Treats- A  'IVili. 
jv.l — Indian  HuiclifrinK — A  Hunt  nniniig^  itte'ltutTrito — A 
Wniinilt't  M.in— \  Drive— A  Slnrni  ami  ilsKneni\— Ni(/I)t 
nni'ii  IS  tin-  Uiiir.iln— Tlie  Cnuniry  ami  II. e  ll«>[iv-'-ri<. — 'iiic 
Kuril—  \  iMn'iny  ami  iis  Cniiseqiiciurcs— Blislereil  Fii  ^'er 
—  IjiliTly- BfHl'.>  Kurt — Dl^ttinHlill^. 

Our  liiiiiters,  who   had  been  despatchod    from  | 
t'ouneil  (Jriive  in  soach  of  gajue,  had  njoined  us  ; 
in  K'ellv's  camp.      And  as  our  larder  had  not  been 
ini|iroved  by  the  bunt,  aiiullier  party  was  sent  out  i 
unler    oiders  to  advance   to   the   biitl'alo   with  all 
possible  alacrity,  and  sf'ud  back  to  the  main  body 
a  portion  of  the  tirst  meat  that  should  be  taken. — 
Tills    was  a  day  of  mild    and    discomlort.     Our 
p  ek  and  riding  animals,  constantly  amioved  by 
the  >lip|iery    clay   beneath    them,    became  restilV,  ■ 
ami  iiol    iulVcipiently  relieved  themselves  nf  riders 
or  packs,  with  little  apparent  respect  tortile  wish- 
es of   their    masters.      And  yet,  as  if  a  thousand 
thorns  should  liatchi  1  out  at  least  one  rose,  we  had  ; 
one  iniMileul  of  lively  interest.      For,  while  halting  \ 
to  secure  the  load  of  a  ))ack.nmlr.  whose  obslina.  , 
ey  woiilil  have  entitled   him   to  that  name,  what- 
ever bail  been  Ills   form,  we  ispled   upon  the  side 
(d'  a  neighboring  ravine  several  elk  and  antelope. 
The  men  uttered   pleas  lor  thiir  stomachs  at  the 
i-i'_ht  of  so  imicli    line   meal,  and    with  teeth  shut 
in  the  agonv  of  expi'datioii,    primed   anew   their 
rilles,  and   rushed   away   lor  the   prize.      Hope  is 
verv  delusive  when    il   hunts  elk   upon  the    open 
plain.     'Tills    fact   was  never  more  painfully  true 
tiem    in    the    present    liislauee.      'I'hey   were  ap- 
proached against  the  wind — the  ravines  that  were 
deepest,  ami   run    nearest   the  elk,  were  traversed 
in  suidi  manner    that   the  huntsmen   were  within 
rt'll)  vards(d"tliembefore  they  Were  discovered  ;  and 
then    never    did   horses  run   nearer  lliclr  topmost 
Sjieed    liir  a  slake  in    dollars  than   did  ours  tor    a 
steak   of   moat.     Ilnl    alas!   the   little  advantage 
gained  at  the  start  from  the  bewlld'red  inaction  of 
the  game,  began  to  diminish  as  soon  as  those  lit  et 
coursers  of  the  prairie  laid  their  nliiible  hoofs  to  the 
sward,  anil  pledged  life  upon   speed.      In  tills  e\i- 
geiiev  a  few  balls  were  sent  wbislhiig  after  llieiii, 
but  they  soon  slept  '11  the  cuitli,  iiisleud   ol   tlie 


pimling  hearts  tlu-y  were  dr«ignrd  to  render  piilpp. 
hss;  and  wc  retuined  to  our  lonely  and  hungry 
march. 

\S  ecnonmijod  at  runset  on  the  banks  of  a  branch 
of  the  .\ikaiis;is.  Our  ratiiais  wiie  now  rediieed 
to  one-eighth  ot  a  |.hit  of  Hour  toeach  man.  This, 
as  our  ciistoni  was,  was  kneti(kd  with  water,  and 
baked,  or  rather  dilid.  In  our  Irvhig-pan  over  a 
lire  siitilelently  distltute  of  eoiuliustibles  In  ha\c 
satlslldl  the  most  lastldions  miser  in  that  llnr. — 
Thus  rel'reslied,  and  our  clothing  dried  in  the 
wind  during  the  day,  we  hugged  our  titles  to  our 
hearts  and  slept  smiiidlv. 

'I'lie  Mill  of  the  lollovving  ninrniug  was  unusu- 
ally bright,  the  sky  cloudless  and  ddlghtfullv 
libie.  These  were  new  pleasures.  Tor  the  heavens 
and  the  earth  luul,  till  that  niorning,  since  oiir 
departure  liom  home,  scoiirgdl  us  with  every  (lis. 
coiiriigcnient  wlileli  tlie  laws  of  matter  could  Jiro- 
ducc.  .Now  all  aKMind  ussni'ded.  Dame  Mature, 
a  prude  though  she  be,  seemed  pleased  that  she 
had  belabored  our  courage  with  so  little  sneccKs. 
.\ud,  lo  add  to  the  joy  of  the  occasion,  a  herd  of 
o\en  and  mules  wore  feeding  and  lowing  upon 
the  op|)oslte  bank  ol  llie  stream.  'I'liev  bolougfd 
to  the  Messrs.  ifeiits,  who  have  a  trading  post 
upon  the  .\rkansas.  One  of  the  partners  and 
Ihlily-odd  men  were  on  their  way  to  St.  I/iuls. 
with  ten  wagons  laden  with  peltries.  They  were 
also  driving  down  ^'(M)  Santa  To  sheep,  /or  the 
Missouri  market.  'J'bese  animals  are  nsiiallv 
|imclia.-ed  from  the  Spaniards;  ami  if  lli(;  In- 
dians |irove  far  enough  Irom  the  track  to  permit 
the  puridiasi  r  to  diive  them  Into  the  Slates,  his  In- 
vestiuciit  Is  imnsiiallv  protitable.  The  Indians  too 
residing  i.long  tlie  Alexicaii  fronller,  not  liilVe. 
(pieutly  lind  it  convenient  lo  steal  large  numbers 
of  mules.  \'e.,  t'rom  their  no  less  swarlbv  neigh- 
bors ;  and  from  the  case  with  wlileh  Ihey  acipiiip 
them,  rind  themselves  able  and  willing  to  sell 
them  lo  gentlemen-traders  for  a  very  easily  ar. 
ranged  conijieusatlon.  Of  these  several  sources 
of  gain  it  would  siein  lliP  .Messrs.  lients  avail 
themselves;  since,  on  lueetlng  the  geiitb  men  hi 
charge  of  the  v.agons  bi  lore  spoken  of.  heinlornied 
us  that  he  had  lost  thirty  Ah  xlcaii  niulcs  and 
,  seven  horses;  and  desired  us.  as  we  intended  to 
■  pass  bis  post,  lo  recover  and  take  Iheni  \y,u\i.  A 
recpiest  <d'  any  kind  from  a  white  face  in  Ihewll- 
(Urness  Is  never  denied.  .Aecordluglv  we  agreed 
lo  do  as  he  desired,  if  within  our  power. 

W  <■  made  little  progress  lo-,lav.  Our  packs, 
thai  had  been  soaked  by  storm  and  stream,  le- 
(piired  drying,  iid  !-  r  that  purpose  we  went  early 
into  camp.  The  eniiiilry  In  wlilidi  we  now  were, 
was  by  no  means  sacred  lo  safety  ol  life,  limb  or 
properly.  The  I'awnee  and  ( 'umanche  war-par- 
ties roam  through  It  during  the  spring  and  sum- 
mer months,  tor  plinder  and  scalps.  'J'he  guards, 
wliiidi  wc  had  had  on  I  be  ale  rt  since  leaving  Couueil 
drove,  wi>rc,  tin  lefore,  earet'ully  stationed  at  night- 
fall among  the  anlmalsarouiid  the  tent,  and  urged 
to  the  most  careful  walchliilncss.  Hut  no  '»•  nio- 
,  listed  iij'.  In  the  e.vprcsslve  language  of  the  gl. 
aiil  of  our  band,  prelaiad  always  with  an  a|ipro- 
prlale  sigh  and  arms  aklniho,  "  \\'e  were  not  mur- 
dered yet." 

.  .bout  l"-' o'clock  of  the  1  lib  wo  passeal  the  Little 

.\rkaiisas.     Our  Imntcrs  bad  been    there  the  pre- 

|i  viQUs  night,  uiid  hud  succeeded  in  taking  a  dozen 


12 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


cat-fisli.     Tlu'ir  own  keen   lumber  had  dovourcd  ; 
a  part  of  tliciu  willioiit  pepper,  or    sail,  or  l)read,  : 
iir  vejTetalile.     'I'lie  reiiuiiiider  we  foiinil  utiaelieil  ! 
to  a  liiisli  ill  the  Ktreaiii,  in  uii  liiiwliolesoille  slate 
of  drcoiiiposilioil.     'I'liey  were,  liowever,  lakeli  im 
and  exaninu'd  l)y  llie  senses  of  si(,'lil  and  smell  al-  . 
ternalely  I  and  viewi  il  and  smelt  a|;aiii  in  refennei' 
to  onr  ravenous  palates ;  and  illli"nt;li  some  donlit  ■ 
may  have  existed  in  reirard  tothi'  llelin  w  principle 
of  devourinjj  so  nnclr^an  a  lliinir,  onr  appetitei<  al-  ! 
Iciwed  of  no  demnrrintj.      We  roasted  and  ate  as  I 
onr  roinpanions  had  done.  j 

I  had  an  opporlnnilv  al  this  plaee  to  tiliservi' 
the  jrreat  extent  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  these 
streams  of  llie  plains  in  a  sin^'le  day  or  ni^dit.  Il 
wonid  readilv  l>e  presinneil  liy  those  who  liave  a 
eorreet  idea  of  the  floods  of  water  that  tiiethnn- 
der-stonns  of  this  rejiion  jionr  upon  the  lollinjr 
prairies,  itiat  a  few  I'ules  of  the  channels  of  a 
number  of  the  ereeks  overwhieh  the  storms  pass 
may  I'c  tilled  to  the  lirini  in  an  honr;  and  that 
there  are  phenonu'na  of  Hoods  and  falls  of  water 
nccnrrinj;  in  this  vast  den  of  tempesis,  sneh  as  are 
found  no  where  else.  Slill.  with  this  evidently 
true  explanation  in  mind,  it  was  with  some  dilll. 
culty  that  I  yielded  to  the  evideneis  on  the  hanks 
of  the  Little  .Arkansas,  that  that  stream  had  fal. 
Un  1.')  feel  during  the  last  I'J  hours.  It  was  still 
too  deep  for  the  safily  of  the  paek  animals  in  an 
attempt  to  ford  il  in  the  usual  w.iy.  'l"he  hanks 
also  at  the  fordinir  place  were  left  hy  the  relirini; 
flood,  a  most  inilriendly  (inai;nnre  :  so  soft  that  a 
horse  \vitho\it  hnrden  could  with  tln'  ^rrealcst  dif. 
ticnll  v  drair  himself  lhroui;h  it  to  the  w.iter  IkIow. 
In  our  e.xtrcinity.  however,  we  lied  oin-  lasliin;: 
lines  lof;ether.  and,  attacliinix  one  end  to  a  stronir 
stake  on  the  side  we  occMpicd,  sent  the  other 
across  the  stream  and  tied  it  lirndy  to  a  tree.  Our 
bupffaijc,  saddles  and  clothiiii,'  suspended  to  hook.- 
runuinir  toand  fmon  thisline,  were  securely  passed 
over.  The  hors(  s  liemi;'  then  driven  across  at 
llie  ill-omened  Foial,  .and  o.irselves  over  by  swim, 
miiifj  and  other  means,  we  s.-iddled  anil  loade<l  oi!r 
animals  with  their  several  burilenn  and  ie.c;oin- 
menced  our  march. 

The  Mill,  l.'itli  anil  llith  weie  days  oi'  more 
than  ordinary  hardships.  With  barely  looil  enoiijrli 
to  support  lili — drenched  daily  by  thunder-storms 
and  by  swunininu  '""I  lordini;  the  nuinerons 
drains  of  this  alluvial  rejfion.  and  wearied  bv  the 
continual  packiufj  and  unpaekin^f  ol  onr  animals, 
and  enfeeliled  by  the  dampness  of  .ny  eoucii  at 
night,  I  was  so  much  reduced  when  I  (lisnioiiiiti  d 
from  my  horse  on  tlu'  eyeniny  of  the  llith.  that  I 
was  unable  In  loosen  the  (rirtli  of  my  saddle  or 
spread  my  blanket  lor  re|)nse. 

The  soil  thus  far  liom  the  Frontier ap|)eared  to 
be  from  3  to  (i  feet  in  depth — jreuerally  nndiila- 
tiii(;  and  occasionally,  far  on  the  western  horizon, 
broken  into  ra(i|red  and  pieturisipie  bliiU's.  Hc- 
twecn  the  swells  we  oeeasionallv  met  small  tracts 
of  marshy  ground  saturated  with  braekisli  water. 

On  the  night  of  the  Ititli.  near  thelioiirofl^ 
o'clock,  we  were  suddenly  roused  by  the  rajiid 
trampling  of  animals  near  onr  eani|).  "'  Indians  1" 
was  the  cry  from  '.iie  guard.  "  Indians  !  "  We  had 
expected  an  encounter  with  them  as  wc  ap. 
proaehed  the  bu'Valo,  and  were  eonseiiuently  not 
unprepared  for  it.  Iv.ich  man  seized  liis  rilleaiid 
was  instantly  ni  position  to  give  the  intruders  a 


proper  reception.  On  thev  came,  rushing  furious, 
ly  in  a  dense  eolnmn  till  within  Hi)  yards  of  our 
tent  ;  and  then  whcelini;  shoii  to  the  left,  abrupt- 
ly hailed.  \ot  a  ritle  bd!  or  an  arrow  bad  yet 
eletl  Ihe  air.  Xor  was  il  so  necessary  that  they 
should,  as  it  might  have  been,  had  we  not  disco, 
yered  Ihat  instead  of  bipeds  of  bloody  ineinory, 
they  were  the  ipiadriipeds  that  had  eloped  from 
the  f.itherly  care  of  Mr.  Hent.  making  a  call  of 
cremony  upon  their  compatriol  mnles,  &.r.  tied 
to  stakes  wilbin  onr  camp. 

I  i"lh.   We  were  on  the  trail  at  7  o'cloeli.      The 

sun  of  a  tine  morning  shone  upon  onr  ranks  of 

beasts  and  men.       Were  I  able  to  sketch  the  wo. 

shriveled  visages  of  my  starving  men.  eontorted 

with  occasional  bursts  of   wrath  upon  -Mr.  lieiu's 

mules  as  they    displayed  their  ungraleful  heels  to 

us,   who  had  restored    them  from   the  indeecnciiH 

i  of  savage  life  to  Ihe  dominion  of  civilized  beings, 

'  my  readers   wonlrl  say  that   the  sun  never  looked 

y.  upon  biayrr  appearaiiees.  or  a   more    determined 

1  disregard  of  educated  loveliness.     Along   march 

before  u- — the   Arkansas  and   its  Yish  before  us — 

!;  the  biiliido  with  all  Ihe  ilelic.atc  bits  of  tendcr-loi  n 

i  and  111  irrow.boiies,  the  remembr.mce  of  them   in. 

'spires  nil — with  all  tliise  before   us,  who  that  has 

I;  the  [glorious  sym|)atliies  of  Ihe  gastric  sensibilities 

within  him,  can  suppose  that  we  did   not  use  the 

,  spur,  whip  and  goad    with    a    right    good   will  on 

i  tiiat  menioiHble  day  /    Thirty  or  forty  miles,  none 

but  Ihe  vexi  d  plains  can  tell  which,  were  traveled 

[l  hy    I    o'clock.       The    afternoon   hours,  too,  were 

ij  comiled  slowly.    H'eb  blurt:-,  and  bules,  and  rolls, 

[;  and  salt  iieushes  allernalely  appearing  and  falling 

j,  hehiiid  us,  with  here  uid  there  a  plat  of  the  thick 

j  short   grass  of  the   upper    plains   and  the   stray 

jj  bunches  of  the  br.ani'hiiig  cobinmar  and    foliated 

(  prickly  pear,  indicated  that  wc  were  ajiproaching 

I  some  more  imiiorlant  course  of  the  mountain  wu- 

*  lets  than  -.iw',  we  li.id  yet  seen  since  leaving  the 

ma|eslie  .Alissouri.     "  On.  merrily  on,"  rang  from 

|;  our    parclii  d    and    linncrv    nioulhs ;    and   if   the 

cheerliil  shout  did  nol  allay  our  appetites  or  thirst, 

,,  il  ipiickened  the  jiacc  of   our  mules   and  BatisHed 

|i  each    other  of  our  determined  purpose  to  ImIioIiI 

i;  the  .\rk  iiisas  by  the  light  of  that  day. 

i'       During   lll!^   hurried  drive  of  the  allernoon  we, 

j  heea me  separated    trom   one   anolher   among  the 

,  swellsoycr  which  onr  Iraek  ran.     Two  of  'be  ad. 

I  vanee  plate   •■   'ook  the  liberty,  in    the  absence  of 

I  their  I'omn.  .11  .   .,  to  give  chase  to  an  antelope  Ihat 

i;  seemed  to  tantalize  their  torbearance  by  exhibiting 

his  fine  surloiiis   to  their  view.       .\eyer  did   men 

better  earn  liiigiveness  ur  disobedience  of  orders. 

One  of  them  crept  as  I  h-.irned  half  a   mile  ii|)on 

his  hands  and  knees  to  get  williui  ritle  shot  ol  his 

game  ; — shot  at  .'tilt)   yards  ilistanee   and  brought 

him  down  I  And  nov,-,  who.  in  the  tanieness  of  an 

li  enough. and-to.s)iare  state  of  existence,  in  which 

I  every  emoliou  of  the  mind  is  siii'fi  ileil  and  gouty, 

j,  can  estiin.ite  our  pleasure  at  seeing  these  men  gal. 

Ij  lop  into  our  ranks  with  this  anielope  .'      Yon  may 

j,  •' guess,"   reader,    you    may   ••reckon."    von  may 

|1  •'  calculate, '•  or  il  learned  in  the  demi-senii-qiiaverti 

of  inoderii  exi|uisiteness,  you   may  thrust    rudely 

aside  all  these  wholesome  and  fat  old  words  of  the 

heart,  and  ••  shrewdly  imagine  "  and  still  you  can- 

not  eoin[irehend  ihe  feelings  of  that  moment  '.  Did 

;'  we  shout  '  were  we  silent  '   no,  neither.      Dili  wc 

ji  gutiier  ipiickly  uionnd  Ihe  horse  staiiit'd  w  ith  the 


i 


iHliiiifT  furious. 
II  y:iids  r)f  our 
ln'  Icll,  iiliiupl- 
iirrow  li;i(l  yet 
s:ily  lli:il  tl'icy 
wi'  not  disco, 
oody  inciiiorv, 
:id  eloped  I'roin 
akiup  a  rail  ol' 
lules,  &.r.  lied 

I'cloelt.  'I'he 
1  our  riiuks  of 
nitetoli  tile  HO. 
lien.  I'liiilnrleH 
"in  Mr.  lienrs 

•.Tlcllll    IllfU   lo 

he  iiuleeeneii'H 
ivilized  liriiiirN, 
1  novrr  looked 
re  deleriiiined 
A  lone  inareli 
isli  before  tin — 

s  offender-loin 
■e  of  Iheni   in. 
.  who  that  han 
e  sensibilities 
I   not  use  the 
Cood  will  on 
rty  miles,  none 
werp  traveled 
lurs,  too,  Were 
ules,  and  rolls, 
iiifr  and  fallinjr 
lit  of  the  thick 
iiid   the    stray 
r  and    foliated 
•e  niiproaehing 
mountain  wa- 
'e  leaving   the 
un,"  raiiK  from 
i;    and   if  the 
elites  or  thirst, 
<   and  Hatisficii 
insp  to  behold 
ay. 

alternoon  we 
r  among  tl,,. 
'wo  ol  'lie  ad. 
he  absence  of 
1  antelope  Unit 
hy  e.xhiliilinjT 
ver  <li<l   men 
iiep  of  orders. 
a   mile  U|him 
lie  shot  ol  bis 
and  brought 
inieness  of  an 
ice,  in  which 
'd  and  gout\ , 
lese  men  jjal- 
?     You  may 
ti,"  you  may 
semi-(iuavi'i» 
hrusi   rudely 
words  ol  the 
still  you  cull, 
loineiit  1   Did 
ler.      Did  \\c 
icd  with  the 


in  the  Roehj  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  8fc, 


13 


blofiH  of  thp  Hiisprnded  animal  ?  No,  nor  Ibis.  An 
involuntary  murmur  of  relief  from  the  most  fear. 
fill  forpbodings,  and  tlir  sudden  ball  of  the  riding 
animals  in  tlirir  tricks  were  the  only  movements, 
the  only  acts  that  indicated  our  grateful  joy  at  this 
deliverance. 

Our  intention  of  seeing  the  Arkansas  that  night 
however  soon  banished  every  ofbcr  Ibougbt  from 
the  mind.  Whips  ami  spurs  therefore  were  freely 
used  iijioii  our  animals  as  they  ascended  tediously 
a  long  roll  of  prairies  ciivereil  with  the  wild  grasses 
and  stinted  stalks  of  the  .^im-l'lowi'r.  We  rightly 
conceived  this  to  be  the  bordering  ridge  of  the 
valley  of  the  .\rkiiiisas.  Koroii  attaining  Its  siiin- 
niit  wp  saw  ten  miles  of  that  stream  lying  in  the 
sunset  like  a  beautiful  lake  curved  among  Ibe 
windings  of  the  bills.  D  was  six  miles  distant — 
The  sun  was  setting.  Tlie  road  lay  over  sirup  rolls 
of  laud  that  rendered  it  nearly  impossible  for  us  to 
keep  our  jaded  animals  on  a  trot.  Hut  the  swtrt 
water  of  thai  .Vinericaii  Nile,  and  a  copse  of  tim. 
her  u|)ou  its  banks  that  olVercd  us  the  means  of 
ciKiking  the  .-intelope  to  satisly  our  insnircrablc  bnn- 
ger,  were  motives  that  gave  us  new  euergv  ;  and 
on  wi' went  at  a  rajiid  pace  while  suHicient  ligbl 
ii'inained  to  show  us  the  trail. 

When  within  about  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  river 
a  most  aimovingcircumstancc  crossed  our  path. — 
A  swarm  of  the  most  gig.intie,  and  peisrvering 
mu.sipiitoes  that  evi'r  gathered  Iribule  from  binnau 
kind,  ligbtpd  on  us  and  dciuaiidcd  blood.  Xol  in 
Ibe  Icist  scrupulous  as  lo  the  maimer  in  which  lliev 
urged  their  claims,  they  lixcd  ibemsclves  boldly 
and  without  rereinony  upon  our  organs  of  siglii. 
smell,  and  whipping,  the  List  not  least  in  oursitii.a- 
tioii.in  siicb  numbers,  tint  in  conseipieuee  of  Ibe 
Pinploymenl  they  g.ive  us  in  keeping  them  at  the 
<listauce  wliieb  ii  welLdelincd  res[K'el  ibr  our  di. 
vine  faces  would  have  rendered  proper,  and  in  con. 
cpienceof  the  pain  which  they  iiitlieted  upon  our 
restilV  animals,  we  lost  the  Ir.iil.  And  now  came 
ipngmirps,  Hoimderiiigs  and  mud,  such  as  would 
liive  taught  the  most  li.irdcned  relnl  in  morals 
that  deviations  from  the  path  of  dutvleul  some. 
tiiucM  to  pain,  someliiiies  to  swamps.  Doug  per. 
sevcrancp  at  length  enabled  lis  to  reai'li  the  great 
"  Kiver  of  Ibe  I'lains.'' 

We  tarried  for  a  moment  ii|h)ii  the  banks  ol  the 
sireini,  and  east  about  to  extricate  ourselves  Irom 
the  Kgyptian  iilagucs  around  us.  'I'o  reg.iin  our 
track  in  the  darkness  of  night  now  mingled  uilii  a 
dense  fog,  was  no  easy  task.  We  however  look 
the  lead  of  a  swell  of  land  that  r.an  across  il.  aiirl 
in  thirty  minutes  enleicd  a  path  so  well  m.irked 
that  we  could  thread  our  u  ay  onward  till  we  should 
liiid  wood  siillicieiit  lo  cook  our  supper.  This  was 
a  dreary  riile.  'i'he  stars  gave  a  little  ligli!  among 
themisi,  wliieb  enabled  us  to  liiseeni  on  the  even 
line  of  Ibe  horizon,  a  small  speck  that  after  three 
bniirs  Ir.ivel  we  found  to  be  a  small  grove  of  colton- 
wood  upon  an  islaml.  We  encamped  near  it.  .\iid 
alter  our  baggage  was  jiilcd  up  so  as  to  form  a  eir. 
ele  of  breastworks  for  deli'iicc,  our  wearini'ss  was 
such  that  we  sink  among  il  supperless.  and  sbpi 
with  nolhiug  but  \\\f  heavens  over  us.  And 
although  we  weri'iu  the  range  of  the  ('iimancbe 
bunting  as  well  a.s  war-parlies,  tin  guard  slept  m 
spite  of  the  savage  eyes  that  might  be  gloating 
vengcancp  \\\mn  our  little  band.  No  fpar  nor  war 
wliooj)  could   huvc  Uokcn  the  Blumbcrg  of  tlial 


night.  It  was  a  tPinporary  dpalli.  Nature  hud 
made  its  rxtremr  etliirt,  and  tuink  in  helplcpsnCBH 
till  its  ebbing  pneigies  should  rpflow. 

On  the  morning  of  tlip  18lli  of  June  wc  were  ear- 
ly up — early  ninund  among  our  animals  to  jmll 
up  the  stakes  to  which  they  werp  tied,  and  drive 
them  fast  again,  where  iliey  might  graze  while 
we  should  eat.  'I'licii  to  the  care  of  our  noble 
selves.  We  wrestled  manfully  with  the  frying- 
pan  and  roisling.stiek  ;  and  anon  in  the  very  man. 
ncr  that  one  sublime  act  always  follows  its  prede- 
ccssor,  tore  bone  from  hone  the  antelope  ribs,  with 
so  strong  a  gri|)  ami  with  such  unrestrained  de- 
light that  a  truly  ))biloso|iliic  observer  might  liave 
(lisivivered  in  the  llasli  of  our  eyes  and  the  quick 
energetie  motion  of  the  nellier  |)ortions  of  our 
pbvslogiiomies,  that  eating,  though  an  iinconi. 
mou,  was  nevertheless  our  favorite  occupation. — 
.Vnd  then  "  catch  up,"  "  sadilbson,"  "packs  on,'' 
"mount,"'  "ma'cli,"  all  severally  said  and  done, 
we  were  on  the  route,  hurry-scurry,  with  forty 
loosp  mules  and  horses  leering,  kicking  and  briiy- 
ing;  and  some  si.x  or  eight  pack  aniirals  making 
every  honorable  ellbrt  to  free  themselves  from  scr- 
yitiide,  while  we  were  applying  lo  their  heads  and 
cars  certain  gentle  intimations  that  siieli  ambi. 
lions  views  accorded  poorly  with  their  master's 
wishes. 

In  uie  course  of  the  day  we  crossed  several 
tributaries  of  the  .Vrkausas.  .\t  one  of  these, 
called  by  Ibe  traders  Hig  'J'urkey  Creek,  we  were 
I'orced  to  resort  again  to  our  (.'bilian  bridge.  In 
conseipience  of  the  s|)ongy  natitre  of  the  soil  and 
the  scireily  of  limber,  tliere  wa'e  more  difficulty 
here  in  procuring  fastenings  for  our  ropes,  than  in 
any  |ircyions  insl-auce.  We  at  ienj;lli,  however, 
obiained  pieces  of  tl(«)dwood,  and  drove  them  in- 
to  the  soft  lumks  "  at  an  inclination,"  «aid  ho  of 
the  axe,  "  of  precisely  l.')  degrees  to  the  plane  of 
the  horizon."  'I'liiis  supported,  the  slakc«  stood 
siiflieieiilly  llrni  for  our  puqioses ;  and  our  bags, 
packs,  .<;elves,  and  beasts  were  oyer  in  ii  ti'icc,  and 
ill  the  lialfof  Ibal  malhematical  fraction  of  time, 
we  were  repacked,  rcmoiinted,  and  troltiiig'  otVat 
a  generous  ptice  up  the  Arkansas.  The  riv."r  iip- 
pe.ired  (|uite  unlike  the  streams  of  the  East,  and 
.'~^oulli,  and  Soiithwesl  portion  of  the  Slates  i.'i  all 
its  i|iialilics.  lis  biiiiks  were  low — one  and  ai'iall 
feel  above  the  medium  stage  of  water,  eompofcd 
111  an  allnvimn  of  sand  end  loam  as  li.ird  as  a  pub. 
lie  highway,  and,  in  the  main,  covered  with  u 
species  of  wiry  grass  that  seldom  grows  to  more 
than  one  and  a  half  or  two  iiiebes  in  bight.  Tlie 
sunllov.cr  of  slinled  growth,  and  a  lonely  IiubIi  fld 
willow,  or  an  ill-shaped  sapless,  cotton-wood  tree, 
whose  decayed  trunk  trembled  under  Ihc  weight 
of  years,  together  with  occasional  liliitVs  of  clay 
ami  sajid-slone,  formed  the  only  alb  vi  iting  fe*.. 
Hires  of  llip  landscape.  The  stream  itself  was 
geiieritlly  three-quarters  of  a  mill'  in  width,  with 
a  <-iirrciit  oi'  five  miles  per  hour.  \:atcr  tbree  and 
a  hill.'  lo  limr  feel,  and  of  a  chalky  whiteness.— 
It  wa.s  extremely  sweet— so  delicifiu.s  that  sonieof 
my  men  declared  it  an  excellent  siil)!ilili.'l('  f"''  """'• 

Ce.mped  on  the  bank  of  the  river  \,bere  the 
eoin.aiou  tall  grass  of  the  prairie  grew  pb.'U'i'"'- 
ly — posted  our  iiiglit-guarit,  and  imule  a  p.li  t  "' 
ov.v  meat  into  a  soup  for  supper.  Here  I  shall  t>c 
expected  by  those  civilized  monsters  who  live  by 
caliug  und  drinking,  to  give  a  description  of  the 


14 


Travels  in  the  Great  IVrstern  Prairies, 


inaniicr  of  innkin?  this  soup.  Il  wiih  iiulccd  a 
rare  dish.  And  my  Irinwls  of  iho  troiiclicr — y' 
who  Imvr  hrrri  ppicrd,  niid  pcpiicrcd,  ;iiiil  sidled, 
from  your  youlh  up,  do  not  liislorl  your  imsid  pro- 
tldieniiKTs  when  I  dcckiro  that  of  .-ill  the  vulvar 
innovations  U|H)n  kitclicn  scirrici'  wliii'h  <'ivili/.a- 
tion  has  patched  upon  the  '^'ood  ol<l  style  of  the 
patriarchs,  nolhin'j  has  produced  so  heaslly  an  I'f-  ' 
feet  upon  taste,  as  Ihesi'  self-same  condiments  of^ 
Fait,  pepper,  i!tc.  W'oful  heresy  1  human  nalurc 
pe|>perrd  and  s  dtrd  1  Hut  to  our  sou|).  It  was 
iiiadi'  of  simple  meat  and  water — of  |)ure  water, 
such  as  kin;rs  dranli  from  tlw  streamsoflhe  (rood 
old  land  of  pyramids  and  this;  and  of  the  wihl 
meat  oftlie  wilderness,  unl  linted  with  any  of  the 
albresaid  <-ondimcnls— simply  iHiilcd,  and  then 
raten  with  sironi;.  durahle  irons|K)ons  and  hnleh- 
cr-knivcs.  Here  I  eaimol  reslrain  myself  from 
pemiini.'  one  slrou!;  and  irrepressilile  emotion  that 
I  well  rememher  crowded  through  mv  heart  while 
strotehcd  upiui  my  conch  after  our  repast.  'I'hc 
exceedinjr  comfort  o(  hody  and  mind  at  that  mo- 
ment undoubtedly  jjavc  it  heinj;.  It  was  an  emo- 
tion of  condolenee  l()r  those  of  my  fellow  mortals 
who  lire  eniraiicd  in  the  mamU'acture  ol  rhiunia- 
tisms  and  ijout.  Could  they  only  lor  .an  hour  en- 
ter the  portals  of  prairie  liH — lor  one  hour  hnatlie 
the  inspiration  of  a  linntcr's  Iranscendeulalism — 
for  one  hour  teed  upon  tin  milk  and  honey  and 
marrow  of  life's  pure  nnpeppcred  and  nnsalled  vi- 1 
ands,  how  soon  would  they  forsake  that  ii_rnol)le 
emiiloyment — how  s<,on  would  their  hissiu'^  aijd 
vulj^ar  lahoi'atorics  of  diseasi^  and  [iraves  lie  forsa- 
kiMi.  and  the  cruleh  and  lirandreth's  pills  lie  ir;.,th- 
rrerl  to  the  loinlis  of  (he  fathers  1  Ihit  as  1  am  an 
inc'itTereiit  practitioner  of  these suhlime  leaehinjrs, 
I  will  Jiass  and  mlorju  my  readers  that  the  next 
day's  mandi  terminated  in  an  encampmeni  with 
the  hunters  I  had  sent  forward  li)r  i.'aine.  They 
liad  fared  even  worse  than  ourselves.  I'our  of 
the  seven  days  that  tlcy  had  hecn  ahsent  from  the 
eompanv,  they  had  been  without  food.  .Many  of 
the  streams,  too,  that  were  forded  easily  hy  ns, 
were,  when  they  passed,  wide  and  anirry  Hoods, 
'riicsi'lhcv  wereohlifjcd  toswim,  toihe  (freatdan-ij 
•rer  of  then'  lives. 

On  the  IHtli,  howc-cr.  they  oviTtook  IMes.srs. 
Wuhvorth  and  Alvarez's  teams,  and  w<'rc  ircated 
with  (Treat  hospitality  hy  those  ireiillemen.  On 
the  sam(^  day  the  '  died  a  hull'alo  bull,  pulled  cdl' 
the  tlesli  from  the  l,,..:k,  and  conunenced  dryin;;  it 
over  a  slow  lire  preparatory  to  paekin;;;.  On  the 
niornin(f  of  the  liMh,  two  of  them  started  oil'  for 
us  \yith  some  strips  oi'  meal  danj;lin!j  over  the 
shoulders  of  lli;ir  horses,  'i'hcy  met  us  about  1 
o'clock,  and  witli  n;;  returned  to  the  place  of  dry. 
ing  the  meat.  Our  horses  were  turned  loose  to 
eal  the  dry  [rrass.  while  we  leasted  ourselves  upon 
roasted  toniru<'  and  liver.  After  this  we  "  caudhl 
np"  and  went  on  with  the  intention  of  encamp, 
injr  with  the  ."^anta  ['"cans,  and  after  traveling 
briskly  onward  for  two  hours,  we  came  upon  the; 
brow  of  a  hill  that  overlooks  the  valley  of  I'.iwnee 
Fork,  the  larrrcst  hraneli  of  the  Arkansas  on  its 
northern  side.  The  Santa  l''e  traders  had  en- 
camped on  the  east  hank  of  the  stream.  The 
wamins  surrounded  'an  oval  jiiece  of  (ground,  their 
shafts  or  tonirucs  outside,  and  the;  I'orwai'il  wheel 
of  each  abreast  of  the  hind  wheel  of  the  one  he-; 
I'ui'e  it,    Tliia  arrangement  g'dvc  thcin  u  line  uu-  i 


pect  when  viewed  from  the  hill  over  which  wc 
were  passini;.  Hut  wi'  had  scarcely  time  to  see 
the  little  I  deserilie<l,  when  a  t<'rrilic  scream  of 
"I'awnecl"  "  I'avnec  1  "  .'iro.se  from  a  thousand 
lonjriies  on  the  farther  hank  of  the  river;  and  In- 
dian women  and  children  ran  anil  shrieked  horri- 
bly, "  i'awnecl"  '■  I'awnecl''  as  they  sou(rhl  the 
plens  and  hushes  of  the  nciirhborhooii.  \\  i'  wi'rc 
puz'^led  to  know  the  object  of  such  an  oulhursi  of 
savage  delicht  as  we  deemed  it  to  be.  and  for  a 
lime  tliou^hl  that  we  miirht  well  expect  om'  hinod 
to  shnnher  with  the  hull'alo,  whose  hones  lay 
blcachintj  around  us.  The  camp  of  the  tradcrH 
also  was  in  motion  ;  anus  were  sei-zcil  and  horses 
saddled  with  "hot  haste."  A  mom<'nt  more  and  two 
whites  were  {ridlopi]i(r  warily  ni'ar  us;  a  moment 
more  hroni,'ht  twenty  sava;;e  warriors  in  full  paint 
anil  pinmi' around  us.  .\  ipiiek  rcconiioilic.  and 
the  principal  chief  rode  briskly  up  to  me,  shook 
me  warndy  by  the  hand,  and  wilh  a  clearly  ap- 
parent Iricnilsliipsaid  "  .'^ai'ref(i;ilus"(holy  lea;rue,) 
"  Kanzaus,''  "Caw."  His  warriors  follo'ivcd  Ins 
example.  As  soon  as  our  friendly  irreetinifs  were 
discovered  by  some  of  the  mijior  chiels,  tliey  gal- 
loped their  lleil  horses  at  full  speed  over  the  river, 
and  the  women  and  chililrcn  issued  from  their 
concealments,  and  lined  the  bank  wilh  their  dusky 
forms.  'J'lie  chiefs  rode  with  ns  to  onr  cam|)lni; 
trround.  and  remained  till  dark,  examinin;,'  with 
ureal  interesi  llic  various  articles  ai  our  traveling 
cipiipa'^'c-  and  p'lrticul.-irly  our  tciil  as  il  unf'liled 
ils  broadsides  like  ma;rie.  and  assumed  the  form 
of  a  solid  white  cone.  Mvcry  arraniji  uienl  hein(r 
made  to  |ireviiil  these  aeeompllslied  Ibieves  from 
stealinir  our  horses.  &e..,  we  supped,  and  went  to 
make  calls  upon  our  neitrhhors. 

The  owners  of  the  .'>imta  l''e  wairons  were  men 
who  had  seen  nmeli  of  life.  Crbanc  and  bospita. 
blc,  they  received  ns  in  the  kindest  manner,  and 
};av(^  us  much  i;iformalion  in  rcirird  tollw  moun- 
tains, the  best  mode  of  defence,  iVc  that  [iroved 
in  our  experience  remarkably  correct.  Durinjj 
the  afternoon,  llie  chiefs  of  the  Kauzaiis  sent  mi! 
a  nnmhcr  of  buH'alo  ton(;ues  and  oilier  choice  hits 
of  meats.  Hut  the  lillli  discoverable  on  llieir  per- 
sons (jcnernlly  delerred  ns  from  nsin^'  IMcm.  For 
this  Ihry  carred  little.  If  their  presents  were  ac- 
cepted, an  obliualion  was,  by  their  laws  incurred 
on  onr  part,  from  which  we  could  only  be  relieved 
by  presents  in  return.  'I'd  Ibis  rule  of  Indian  eli. 
ipietie  wc  snbmilled  ;  and  a  council  was  aceord- 
in;ily  held  between  my.self  and  the  priiicipal  chief 
tbrouixh  an  inlerprelcr,  to  delcrmine  upon  the 
amount  and  fpadilyof  my  inilehledncss  in  this  rc- 
jrard.  The  final  arranijement  was.  thai  in  cfin- 
sidcr.ition  of  the  small  amount  of  properly  I  had 
then  in  poss<>ssion.  I  would  i;ive  him  two  pounds 
of  tobacco,  a  sldcdiiiife,  and  a  few  papers  of  ver. 
million;  but  thai,  on  my  reliirn.  which  would  be 
in  fourleen  months.  I  should  he  very  rich,  and 
jrivc  him  more. 

'I'o  all  which  obli'iations  and  pleasant  prophe. 
cies,  I  of  course  cave  my  mosi  bearly  eonenrrciua.'. 
The  ( 'aws,  or  Kanzaus.  are  notorious  Ibieves.  Wc 
Ihereliire  pul  oni  a  double  (rilaril  al  niu'lit,  to  wati'li 
llieir  predatory  opi  rations,  with  inslruelions  to 
tire  upon  them,  if  Ihcy  uttempted  to  take  our  ani- 
mals. Neither  (.nrird  nor  instructions,  however, 
proved  ol  use  ;  for  the  tempest,  which  Iheexpiri. 
cucedold  Santa  I'dulis  liad  tsccii  mil"*  1<-'>1'  "<■ 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  tfc. 


15 


tliunclcr.cloiul  in  the  nortliwrst  ;it  iimort,  proved  ii 
more  cnicR'nt  protection  llian  the  ;irui  ol' man. —  I 
Th(;  cloud  rose  nlowly  chirini;  the  early  part  of  the 
ni(;lit,  and  iipprared  to  hanir  in  suspense  ol'execnt-  ' 
ing  itH  awful  purpose.     The  linhlniuir,  and  lie.ivy 
ruinblinp;of  the  thunder,  were  friuditful.     Jt  came 
to  the  zenith  aliout  I'i  o'cloeU.      When  in  that  po. 
aition,  the  cloud  covered  ou<'-half  of  lh<'  lieaveUB.  . 
and  for  some  minutes  was  nearly  stationary.      Af- 
ter this,  the  wind  liroke  forth  upon  il  ul  tlw  hori- 
zon, and  rolled  up  the  dark   masses  over  otu"  heads 
— now  swellin;r,  now    rendinof  to  shre<ls  its  im- 
mense folds,      lint  asyel,  not  a  lire.ilh  olairnioved 
over  the  plains.     'I'lie   animals  slnod   motionless 
iind  silent  at    the  speetaele.      The  nucleus  of  elee. 
tricity  was  at  the  zeiiilli,  and  thence  larjje  bolts  at 
lust  leapi'd  in  every  direction,  and  liuhled  for  an  ' 
instant  the  e.ulh  and  sUies  so  intensely,  that  the 
eve  could  not  tndure  the  liriirhtness.     The  report 
that   followed  was  appalliufr.     The  ground  treni- 
liled — the  horses  ami  mules  shook   with   lear,  and 
attempted  to  esi'ape.     liut   where  could  they  or 
our.ielveH  have  Ibunil  shelter  '     The  cdoiids  at  the 
next  montent  appeared  in   the  wildest   eonnnolion. 
struafjjiinjr  with  the  wind.     "  Where  shall  we  tly  '" 
could  scarcely  have  heen  s|>oken,  liefore  the  wind 
struck  our  lent.  tr)re  the  sl.akes  from  the  (;n)nud. 
snapp<'d  the   centre  pole,  and  burii'd   us  in   its  en. 
raged  I'olds.      Kvery   man.  ihirlei'u  in  nund)er,  im- 
mediately seized  some  portion  and  held  it  willi  his 
misht.     Our  opinion   at   the  time  w.is,   that   the 
absence  of  the  weiirht  of  a  sinirle  man  would  have 
(riven  the  storm  the  victory — our  tent  woidd  have 
eloped   in  the  iron  embraces  of  the  tempest.      We 
attempted  to  (il  it  uji  a;rain  .after  the  violeneeof  the 
storm  had  in  some  deirrei'  passed  over,  but  were 
nntdile   so  to   do.     ."so  that  the   remainder  of  the 
niitht  was  spent  in  gatberinir  u|)our  loose  animals, 
and    in  shiveriufT  under  the  cold  peltinL's  of  the 
rain.     The  Santa  I'Vans.  when  on  march  throujrh 
thesj  plains,  are  inconstant   e.xpcclalion  of  these 
tornadoes.     .Xceordiniily,   when   the  sky   iit  niijht 
indicates  their  approach,  they  idiaiu  the  wheels  of 
adjacent  wa;,'ons  stronfjly  toffelher  to  pri.'vent  them 
from  beinir  upset — an  a(u'ident  that  has  olten  hap- 
pened,  when  this  precaution  was  not  taken.      It 
niav   well   be  conceived,  too,   th.it  to  prevent  their 
(r(x)ds  from  beinir  wet  in  such  eases,  reipiires  a  cov- 
eriu:^  of  no  <ir(linary  powersof  protection.     Dows 
in  the  usual  form,  save  thai    they    are  hiylu-r,  are 
raised  over  louf;   snidicn    I'ennsylvania   wagons, 
over  which  are  spretid  two  or  three  thicknesses  of 
woolen  blankets;  and  over  these,  and  e.xlemkd  to 
the  lower  cdfTc  of  the  body,  is  drawn  a  slroni;  can- 
vas«  covering;,  well  fjnarded  with  cords  and  leatlnr 
(itrups.     Thnnigh  this  covering  these  teiniJcsts  sel- 
dom penetrate. 

At  7  o'clock  on  the  morninj;  (d'  tbi''J7th,  "Catch 
up,  eatidi  up,"  rani;  around  the  wafions  of  the 
Santa  Feans.  Innnediattly  each  man  bad  his 
liand  upon  a  horse  or  mule  ;  and  ere  we,  in  atlempt- 
jliU  to  Ibllow  their  e.vamplc,  had  our  horses  by  the 
luilter,  the  teams  were  harnessed  and  ready  (or  tlie 
"  inarch."  .V  nolde  siirjit  those  ti  ams  were,  forty- 
odd  in  nundjcr,  their  innnensc  waj^ons  still  unmov- 
ed, forminj;  an  oval  breastwork  of  weallb,  girded 
by  an  iin|iatient  niaf;s  of  near  400  mules,  harnessed 
and  ready  to  move  again  along  their  solitary  wav. 
But  the  interest  of  the  sc<,'iie  was  nmch  increased 
wbcu.  at  tliu  cull  cit'  the  uoiuinanUci',  tlic  two  li'K'f, 


team  after  li-am,  straiirhlcned  themselves  into  the 
trail,  and  rolled  majcslically  away  over  the  undu- 
lating plain.  We  crossed  the  Pawnee  Fork,  and 
visited  the  ("aw  Camp.  Their  wigwams  were 
eonslructed  of  bushes  inserted  into  the  ground, 
twisled  together  at  the  top,  and  covered  with  the 
bull'alo  hides  that  they  bad  been  gathering  for  their 
winter  lodgi'S.  .Meat  was  drying  in  every  direc- 
tion. Il  had  been  cut  in  long  narrow  strips,  wound 
arf>nnd  slicks  standing  njirighl  in  the  ground,  or 
laid  over  a  rick  of  wiekor-work,  under  which  slow 
tires  are  kepi  burning.  The  slencli,  and  the  s(pi  did 
a|)pearani-e  of  the  women  and  children,  wcri'  not 
Mdllcienllv  int<Teslirig  to  detain  us  long  ;  and  we 
traveled  on  forllie  bull'alo  nhicli  were  bellowing 
over  the  bills  in  adv.inee  of  us.  Tliere  appeared 
to  be  about  I .  "lOO  souls  :  they  were  almo.st  naked  ; 
and  lillby  as  swim-.  'I'hey  make  a  yearly  bunt  to 
this  region  m  the  spring- — lay  in  a  large  (pianlily  of 
dried  naat — relurn  to  their  own  (errilory  in  Imr- 
vesl  time — g.ither  their  beans  and  corn,  make  the 
bull'ilo  hides,  taken  before  the  hair  is  long  enough 
for  robes,  into  conical  tents  ;  and  thus  prepare  for 
a  long  and  jollv  winler. 

They  take  wilh  ihem.ou  these  hunting  cxeur- 
siiins,  all  the  hor'^es  and   mules   belonging  to  the. 
tribe,  lint  can  be  spiU'ed    from  the   laljor  of  their 
lields  upon  (be   Konzas  river — no  south  till   they 
meet  thi'    butjalo — build    their  distant  wigwams, 
and  commence  their  labor.     Tliis  is  divided  in  the 
liillowing  manner  between  the  males,  females,  and 
children:  The    men  kill  the  game.     The  women 
dress  and  dry   the  meat,  and  ran  Ibe  hides.     'I'he 
inslrumeiils  used  in  killing  vary  with  the  rank  and 
wealth  of  e.ieh  individual.     Tlie  high  chief  has  a 
lance,  wi(h  a  handle  six  feel  and  liladi- three   feel 
in    length.     This  in  band,  mounli'd  upon  a  fleet 
horse,  he  rides  bobHv  (o  the  side  of  (he   (lying  buf- 
falo, and  thrusis    il    again  and  again  through  the 
liver  or  hear!   of  i>ne,  and   Ihen  anolber  of  the  af- 
frigliled  herd,  till    his  horse   is  no   longer  able  to 
kee))  near   them,      lie    is  thus  able  to  kill  live  or 
six,  more  or  le.-is,  at  .a  single   hea(.     Sonic   of  the 
inferior  chiefs   also   have    llii;se   lances;  but  they 
must  all  be  shorter  than  I  bat  of  his   Uoyal   Dark- 
ness.    The  common  Indians  use  muskets  and  pis- 
tols.     Uilles  are  an   abomination  lo    Ihem.     'I'he 
twisting  motiiin  of  the  ball  as  il  enters — Ibe  sharp 
crack  when  discharged — and   the   direful  singing 
of  the  lead  as  il  euls  the  air,  are  considered  synip- 
,  loms  of  wileheraft  that  are  unsafe  for  the  red  man 
lo  meddle  with.     Tliev  call  Ihem  nicdii  ines — in- 
scrutable  anil    irresistible   sources  of  evil.      The 
!  poorer  clashes  si  ill  uselhe  bow  and  arrow.     Nor  is 
;  Ibis,  in  ihe  wi'll-lrained  hand  of  the  Indian,  a  less 
,  etVeelive  w<M|)on  ihan  those  already  nienlioned. — 
.Vstride  a  giHid  horse,   beside  a  b<'llowing  band  of 
wild  beef,   le  ininj   forward    upon   the   neck,  and 
(  drawing  his  limbs  close  lo  tbesidesof  his  horse, 
;  (he  naked   liimler  uses  his  national  weapon  with 
I  astonishing    dexterity   and   success.       2S'ol  uiifre- 
(pienlly,  when  liitlin;;  no  bones,  does  he  throw  his 
'.  arrows  ipiile  throuirb  tliehuli'.do.    Twenty  or  thir- 
i  Iv  thus   variously  armed,  advance  upon  a  herd. — 
'i'he  chief  leads  the  chase,  and  liy  the  time  they 
;  conic  along  siile  the  band,  the  diH'crent  speed  of  (ho 
lior'?s  has  brought  them  into  a  single  tile  or  line. 
,  Thus  they  run  mitil  every  individual  has  a  buffa. 
lo  at  bis  side.     Then   the   whole  line   (ire  guns, 
I,  tlu'ow  anowit  or  diivc  luiicc^i  ai>  ul'tvii  uud  m  Igii^ 


16 


Travels  in  the.  Great  Western  Frames, 


UB  tho  Bficcd  of  the  horprs  will  iillciw  ;  iind  wldnin 
do  tliey  fail,  in  encounters  of  this  kind,  to  hiy  ii|)on 
the  dusty  plain  numhers  of  these  noble  animals. 

A  cloud  of  squiiws  that  had  hprii  lioverinir  in 
the  nciijhlHuhood,  now  liinry  up,  astride  of  pack 
iininiuls — strip  oil'  liidrs — cut  olV  the  hcst  flesh —  [ 
load  their  puck-saddles,  mount  themselves  on  the 
top,  and  move  slowly  away  to  the  eamj).  The 
lord»  of  creation  have  llnislied  their  day's  l.dtor. — 
'I'hc  ladies  cure  the  meat  in  the  m;in;iir  deseril)e;l 
above — Btreteh  the  hidi's  u|kpu  the  i;roMnd,  and 
with  n  blunt  woodin  adze  hew  them  into  leather. 
The  younger  shoots  of  the  trihe  durin'.' the  day 
arc  eufjaffed  in  watcing  and  [;uardint;  ti.e  horses 
and  mules  that  have  been  used  in  the  hunt — elian- 
(jiuj  their  stakes  from  one  spot  to  another  of 
fresh  (rrass,  and  erouehinjj  alouij  the  hiyhts 
around  the  camp  to  notice  the  approach  of  foes, 
and  sound  the  alarm.  Thus  the  Konzas,  Kausans, 
or  Caws,  lay  in  their  anmial  stores.  Unless 
driven  from  their  jrame  by  the  I'luvnees,  or  some 
other  tribe  at  enmity  with  them,  they  load  every 
animal  with  meat  and  hides  about  the  first  of  .Vu- 
puHt,  and  commence  the  march  back  to  their 
fields,  fathers,  and  wijjwams,  on  the  Konsas  Riv- 
er. This  return  march  must  present  a  most  in- 
terCBtinj;  scene  in  savage  life — 7tll)  or  i^dH  horses 
or  umles  loaded  with  the'  spoils  of  the  chase,  and 
the  children  of  the  tribe  iKildiu'.;  on  to  thi' packs 
with  midhi  and  main,  iriUed  as  eels,  and  shining 
with  bntValo  [;rease,  their  fallirrs  .  lul  mothers 
loapiuf;  on  foot  behind,  with  their  ^uns  |)oi.><ed  on 
the  left  arm,  or  their  bows  and  arrows  swunij  at 
their  back  ready  for  action,  and  turnin'^  their 
heads  rajjidly  anil  an.xiously  for  lurking;  enemies 
— the  attack,  the  scrcanvs  of  women  and  children 
— each  m.an  seizing  an  animal  lor  a  breastwork, 
und  surroundins  thus  their  wives  and  children — 
the  firing — the  dyini; — the  contpicst — the  whoop 
of  victory  and  rejoicin!r^■  of  one  parly,  and  the 
dojjged,  sullen  submission  of  the  other — all  this 
and  more  hi's  occurred  a  thousand  limes  U|x)ii 
these  plains,  and  is  still  occurriji!;.  Hut  if  vietn. 
ry  declare  for  the  Caws,  or  they  march  to  their 
lioine  without  molestation,  how  many  warm  af- 
fections spring  up  in  their  untamed  bosoms,  as 
they  see  again  their  parints  and  children,  and  tho 
ripened  harvest,  the  wonds,  the  streams,  and  bub- 
ling  springs,  among  which  the  glci'fid  days  of 
chUdhood  were  spent  1  And  when  greetings  are 
over,  and  welcomes  arc  said,  cmbrai-cs  exi-hanged, 
und  their  homes  seen  und  smiled  upon;  in  fine, 
when  all  the  holy  feelings  of  rcmi'mbr.ince,  and 
their  present  good  fortune,  find  vent  in  the  wild 
night-dance — who  that  wears  a  while  skin  and 
bcntimcntalizcs  upon  the  belter  lot  of  civilized 
men,  will  not  believe  thai  the  Indian  too,  relurucd 
from  the  hunt  and  from  war.  has  not  as  much  hap- 
piness, if  not  in  kind  the  s  imc,  and  as  many  sen- 
timents that  do  honor  toour  nature,  as  are  wrapped 
in  the  stays  and  lights  of  a  fantastic,  m;iwkish 
civilization — that  llattering,  pluming,  gormandi- 
zing, unthinking,  gilded  life,  which  is  beginning 
to  measure  mental  and  moral  worth  by  the 
amount  of  wealth  |)ossi>ssed,  and  the  adormnenis 
of  a  slip  or  pew  in  church.  Jiut  to  our  journey. 
We  traveled  eight  miles  and  encam|>ed.  .V  hand 
of  buffalo  cows  were  near  us.  In  other  woids,  wc 
were  determined  ujmii  a  hunt — a  deiermination, 
Uvranaoauwu'AoaluihichjaB  will  hereafter  appear, 


were  highly  disastrous.  Our  tent  having  been 
pitched,  and  baggage  piled  up,  the  lleetcst  horses 
tclecled,  and  the  lies!  marksmen  bf si  mounted,  wb 
trotted  slowly  along  a  circling  depression  of  tlio 
lilain,  that  wound  around  near  the  herd  on  the 

.  leeward  side.  When  we  emerged  insight  of  them, 
wc  put  the  horses  into  a  slow  gallop  till  withi,! 
.'10(1  yards  of  our  game  ;  and  then  for  the  nimblest 
heel  1  Jvich  was  on  his  utmost  speed.  We  nil 
gained  n|K)n  the  herd.  Hut  two  of  the  horses  were 
by  the  side  of  the  lubbers  before  the  rest  were  with- 
in rille.reach  ;  anri  the  rillcs  and  pistols  of  their 
riil"rs  discharged  into  the  sh'ck,  well-larded  Iwdy 
of  a  iioble  bull.  The  wounded  animal  did  not  drop  ; 
the  ba'ls  had  entered  neither  liver  nor  heart ;  and 
away  h"  ran  for  dear  life.  But  his  unwie;iy  fonn 
moved  Siower  and  slower,  an  the  dripping  blood 
oozed  from  the  bnllct-holes  in  his  loins,  lie  ran 
towards  our  lent  ;    and  we  followed  him  in  that 

'  direction,  till  within  a  fourth  of  a  niile  of  it,  when 
onr  heroes  of  the  ritle  laid  him  wallowing  in  his 
blood,  a  mountain  of  flesh  weighing  at  least  3000 
pounds.  W'f  butchered  him  in  the  following  man- 
ner:  Having  turned  him  upon  his  brisket,  split 
the  skin  above  the  spine,  and  pared  it  off  as  fur 
down  the  sides  as  his  position  would  allow,  we  cut 
ofVllie  flesh  that  lay  outside  the  ribs  as  far  bacli 
as  the  loins.  This  the  hunters  call  "  the  fleece." 
We  ne.ict  took  the  ribs  that  rise  perpendicularly 
from  the  spine  between  the  shoulders,  and  support 

'  what  is  tcrjucd  the  "hump."  Thi?n  we  laid  our 
heavv  wood    axes   u|K)n    the  enormous   side-ribs, 

■  opened  111'-  cavity,  anil  took  out  the  tender-loins, 
tallow.  &c., — all  Ibis  a  load  for  two  mules  to  carry 
into  camp.  it  wa'i  prepared  for  packing  as  fol- 
lows :  The  fleeiu'  was  cut  across  the  grain  into 
slices  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  spread 
upon  a  sc.itrolding  of  poles,  and  dried  and  smoked 
over  a  slow  fire.  While  we  were  engaged  in  this 
process,  inlbrmilion  came  that  three  of  .Mr.  Heiit's 

'  nudes  had  escaped.  The  proliabilily  was  that  they 
had  gone  to   the  guardianship  of  our  neighbors, 

'  the  Ciiws.  This  was  a  misforlune  to  ourhonor.i- 
ble  intention  of  restoring  them  to  their  lawful 
owners.  Search  was  immediately  ordered  in  tho 
Indian   camp  and   elsewhere   for  them.     It  was 

.  fruitless,  'i'iie  men  returned  with  no  very  favor, 
able  account  of  their  reception  by  the  Caws,  and 
were  of  opinion  that  farther  searidi  would  be  in 
vain.  Hut  bring  disposed  to  try  my  influence 
with  the  principal  chief,  I  gave  orders  to  raise  tho 
enmp  and  follow  the  Santa  FOiins,  without  refer- 
ence to  my  return,  and  mounting  my  horse,  in 
conipanv  with  three  men,  sought  his  lodge.  Tho 
wigu  ams  were  deserted,  save  by  a  few  old  women 

'  and  soualid  children,  who  were  wallowing  in  dirt 
and   grease,   and   regaling    themselves   upon   the 

'   roasted  intestines  of  the   buffalo.      I    intpiired  for 

i  the  chiefs — for  the  mules — whether  they  theni- 
j  selves  were  human  or  bestial  ;  for.  on  this  point, 
i  there  was  room  for  doubt :  to  all  which  inquiries, 

]   they  gave  an  appropriate  grunt.     But  no  chiefor 

other  pers:>n  eoidd  be  found,  on  whom  any  res])on- 

!  sibilitv  could  be  thrown  in  regard  to  the  lost  nuiles. 

!  .'Vnd  after  climbing  bights  to  view  the  plains,  and 

I;  riding  from  b;uid  to  band  of  Ills  Darkness's  quad- 

jl  rupeds  for  three  hours  in  vain,  we  returned  to  our 

camp  sulljeientlj' vc.ted  for  all  purposes  of  comfort. 

Yet  this  was  only  the  beginning  of  the  niis- 

forluncB  of  tliis  day.      During  my  absence,  one 


in  the  Forhf  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  Sfc. 


17 


nt  having  been 
ic  tlcrtrHt  horses 
)psl  mounted,  wc 
rproBfion  of  the 
lie  herd  on  the 
lnsi;r|,t  ofthcni, 
iillop  till  withiM 
for  the  iiiifibleHt 
Hprcd.  We  all 
r  the  horNi'B  were 

•  rest  were  witli. 
)istol»  of  their 

vrll-liirdcd  Ijody 
ml  did  not  drop  ; 
nor  heart ;  and 

I  iinwiiviy  form 
drippinc  blood 
loinn.     He  ran 

eil  him  in  that 
mile  of  it,  wlicn 
allowing  in  hiH 
ng  at  least  3000 

•  following  man. 
lis  l)rifiket,  Bplit 
red  it  otF  bh  fur 
l<l  allow,  we  cut 
ibs  as  far  bank 

II  "  the  tleeee." 
perpendicularly 
ITS.  and  support 
icn  we  laid  our 
mous  side-ribs, 
le  tender-loiuH, 
)  mides  to  carry 
piiching  as  fol- 

the  grain  into 
less,  and  spread 
icd  and  smoked 
( ngaged  in  this 
ecof  .Air.  IJent's 
y  was  that  they 

our  neighbors, 
'  to  our  honora. 

0  their  lawful 
ordered  in  the 
them.  It  Was 
no  very  favor, 
the  Caws,  and 
•h  would  be  in 

my  influeneo 
lers  to  raise  the 
,  without  refer. 
:  my  horse,  in 
lis  lodge.  'J'hn 
rew  old  wome?i 
diowingin  dirt 
Ives   upim   the 

1  inquired  for 
■r  thi'y  them, 
on  this  point, 
hieh  inquiries, 
'ut  no  ehiefor 
>m  any  respon- 
the  lost  mules. 
Ihe  plains,  and 
rknesB's  quad, 
cturned  to  our 
SCR  of  comfort. 
:  of  the  mis. 

■  absence,  one 


J 


of  those  potty  bickerings,  so  conimf>n  among  men  ' 
released  from  the  restraints  of  society  and  law, 
had  arisen  Iwtween  two  of  the  most  (piarrelsome 
of  the  company,  terminating  in  the  accidental 
wounding  of  one  of  thcni.  It  occurred,  as  I 
learned,  in  the  following  manner :  A  dispute 
arose  l)etw<!en  the  parties  as  to  their  relative  moral 
honesty  in  some  matter,  thing,  or  act  in  the  past. 
.\nd  as  this  was  a  question  of  great  [H'rple.xity  in 
their  own  minds,  and  doubt  in  those  of  others, 
words  rail  high  and  abusive,  till  some  of  the  men, 
more  regardful  of  their  duty  than  these  warriors, 
Iwgaii  preparations  to  strike  the  teut.  The  re. 
doubtable  cond>atant8  were  within  it ;  and  as  the 
cords  were  loosed,  and  its  folds  began  to  swing , 
U|)on  tho  i!entre  pole,  the  younger  of  the  braves, 
niled  with  wrath  at  his  oi)|H)uent,  attempted  to 
show  how  t(^rriblc  his  ire  would  be,  if  once  let 
loose  among  his  muscles.  I'oi'  t'lis  pur|iose,  it 
would  seem  h«  seized  the  muzzle  of  his  lille  with 
every  demonstration  of  might,  power,  &ie.  and  at. 
tempted  to  drag  it  from  among  the baggigcr.  The 
hammer  of  the  lock  caught,  and  sent  the  i-ontonts 
of  thi^  barrel  into  his  side.  Every  thing  was  done 
for  the  wounded  man  that  his  condition  required, 
and  our  circuuistanees  ])crmitted.  Doctor  Wal- 
worth,  of  the  Santa  FiS  caravan,  then  eight  miles 
in  advance,  returned,  examined,  and  dressed  the 
woimd,  and  furnished  a  carriage  ''ir  the  invalid. 
During  the  afternoon  the  high  rimf  of  the  ("aws 
also  visited  us  ;  and  by  introducing  discolored  wa- 
tcr  into  the  upper  oritice,  and  watching  its  pro. 
gress  through,  ascertained  that  the  hall  had  not 
entered  the  cavity.  But  notwithstanding  thatt)ur 
anxieties  alxiut  the  life  of  Smith  were  much  les. 
sened  by  the  assurances  of  Dr.  Walworth,  and  our 
friend  the  ('hief,  yet  we  had  others  of  no  less  ur. 
gent  nature,  on  which  we  were  called  to  act.  Wc 
were  on  tho  hunting.grouud  of  the  Caws.  They 
were  thieves;  and  after  the  Santa  F<''  traders 
should  have  left  the  neighborhood,  they  would, 
without  scruple,  use  their  superior  forci^  in  ai)pro. 
priating  to  themselves  our  animals,  and  other 
means  of  continuing  our  jouruej'.  The  Pawnees, 
too,  were  daily  expected.  The  Cuuianehes  were 
l)rowling  about  the  neighliorhood.  To  remain, 
therefore,  in  our  present  eucaiiipuient,  until  Smith 
could  travel  without  pain  and  danger,  was  deemed 
iertain  death  to  all.  To  travel  on  in  a  manner  as 
comfortable  to  the  invalid  as  our  condition  would 
permit — painful  to  him  and  tedious  to  us  though 
it  should  Ih! — appeared,  therefore,  the  only  means 
of  safety  to  all,  or  any  of  us.  W(!  accordingly  co- 
vered  the  bottom  of  the  carry.all  with  gra.ss  ai.d 
blanket-"  laid  Smith  n|ion  them,  and  with  other 
blank  Iwlslered  him  in  such  manner  that  the 
jolting  of  the  carriage  would  not  roll  him.  Other 
arrangements  necessary  to  raising  camp  being 
made.  I  gave  the  company  in  charge  of  my  lieu- 
tenant :  and  ordering  hin\  to  lead  on  after  mc  as 
fast  as  possible,  took  the  reins  of  the  carriage,  and 
drove  slowly  along  the  trail  of  the  Santa  F^'ans. 
It  was  continually  crossed  by  deep  paths  made 
by  the  bufl'alo,  as  a  thousand  generations  of 
them  had,  in  single  file,  followed  their  leaders  from 
(wint  to  (loint  through  the  plains.  These,  and 
other  obstructions,  jolted  the  carriage  at  every  step, 
and  caused  the  wounded  man  to  groan  pitiably. 
I  drove  on,  till  the  stars  indicated  the  hour  of 
midnight ;  and  had  hoped  by  thii  tim*  to  havs  I 


overtaken  the  traders,  but  was  disappointed.  In 
vain  I  looked  through  the  darkness  for  the  white 
einbanknjcnt  of  their  wagons.  The  soil  over  which 
they  had  passt'd  was  now  so  hard,  that  the  man 
in  advance  of  the  carriage  could  no  longer  find 
the  trail ;  and  another  storm  was  crowding  iti 
ilark  pall  up  the  western  sky.  The  thunder  aroused 
and  enraged  the  bulfalo  bulls.  They  pawed  th« 
earth  and  Iwllowcd,  and  gathered  around  the  ear. 
riage  madly,  as  if  they  considered  it  a  huge  animal 
of  their  own  species,  uttering  thunder  in  defianco 
of  them.  It  became  dangerous  to  move.  It  was 
useless  also  ;  for  the  darkness  thickened  so  rapidly, 
that  we  coidd  not  keeji  the  track.  My  men,  too, 
had  not  come  i>|>— had  doubtless  lost  the  trail— 
or,  if  not,  migh*  .ain  me  if  I  tarried  there  till  tha 
morning.  I  therefore  halted  in  a  deep  ravine, 
which  would  partially  protect  mc  from  the  mad. 
denarl  buffalo  and  the  storm,  tied  down  my  at  '.. 
m;ds  head  to  foot,  and  sought  rest.  Smith  was  in 
gr»iat  pain.  His  groans  were  sufficient  to  prevent 
sleep.  But  had  he  been  comfortable  and  silent, 
the  storm  |K)ured  such  torrents  of  rain  and  hail, 
with  terrible  wind  and  lightning,  around  us,  tltat 
life,  instead  of  repose,  became  the  object  of  our  so. 
licitudc.  The  horscmaii  who  had  accompanied 
mc,  had  s))read  his  blankets  on  the  ground  under 
the  cariiage,  and,  with  his  head  upon  his  saddle, 
attempted  to  disregard  the  tempest  as  an  old-fash, 
ioiied  Stoic  would  the  toothache.  But  it  beat  too 
heavily  for  his  philosophy.  His  Mackinaw  blank, 
ets  and  slouched  hat,  for  a  time  protected  his  un- 
gainly  Imdy  from  the  eft'ectsof  the  tumbhng  flood. 
But  when  the  water  began  to  stream  through  the 
bottom  of  the  carriage  u|X)n  liim,  the  ire  of  the 
animal  burst  from  his  lank  checks  like  the  coming 
of  a  rival  tempest.  IIu  cursed  his  stars,  and  the 
stars  lichind  the  storm — his  garters,  and  the  gar. 
ters  of  some  female  progenitor — consigned  to  pur. 
gatory  tho  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain,  and  wag. 
on,  alias  poor  Smith  ;  and  gathering  up  the  sham. 
bling  timbers  of  his  mortal  fraine,  raised  them  bolt 
u|)right  in  the  storm,  and  thus-  stood,  quoted 
•Shakspeare,  and  ground  his  teeth  till  daylight. 

As  soon  as  day  dawned  I  found  the  trail  again, 
and  at  7  o'clock  overtook  the  Santa  F<:diui.  Hav. 
ing  changed  .Smith's  bedding,  I  drove  on  in  the 
somewhat  beaten  track  that  forty.odd  wagona 
made.  Still  every  small  jolt  caused  the  unfortunate 
man  to  scream  with  pain.  The  face  of  the  coi'Ji- 
try  around  Pawnee  Fork  was,  when  we  saw  it,  a 
l)icturc  of  t)cauty.  The  stream  winds  silently 
among  blulTs  covered  with  woods,  while  from  an 
occasiond  ravine!,  long  groves  stretch  out  at  ri.(ht 
angles  with  itsmtiin  course  into  ihe  bosom  of  the 
plains.  The  thousand  hills  that  swelled  on  the 
iiorizon,  were  covered  with  dark  masses  of  bufTalo 
|>eiccfully  grazing,  or  quenching  their  thirst  at 
the  sweet  streams  among  them.  But  the  scene 
had  now  changed.  No  timber,  no,  not  a  shrub 
was  seen  to-day.  The  soft  rich  soil  had  given 
place  to  one  of  flint  and  st<nd,  as  hard  as  Mc- 
.•Vdam's  pavements — the  green,  tall  prairic.grast, 
to  a  dry,  wiry  species,  two  inches  m  hight.  The 
water,  too — disgusting  remembrance !  There  was 
none,  save  what  we  scoo|)cd  from  the  puddles, 
thick  and  yellow  with  burtido  offal.  We  traveled 
fifteen  miles,  and  halted  for  the  night.  Smith  was 
extremely  unwell.  His  wound  was  much  inflam- 
ed and  painful.    Dr.  Walworth  dr«a««d  it,  and  «a. 


18 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


cmirugcd  mo  tn  »u])poBc  that  no  diingcrof  life  wuh  ' 
to  be  npprrhi'ndcd.     INIy  coinpuny  joinitl  \\\v  iit  \'i 
o'clock,  on  the  'i'iA,  and  wc  fullowrd  in  the  rear 
of  the  cavalcndc.     After  mipiwr  waH  over,  and 
Smitli  made  eunifortable,  I  soiipht  from  houie  of  l 
tlicm  a  relation  of  their  forlunew  <liirin(;   the  \)i\»\.  \ 
night.     It  appeared  that  they  had  found  tlie  biiHa.  ; 
lo  tmublenonui   ax  noon   nn   night  eume  on ;  that 
tljc  bands  of  bulls  not  unfrrcpienlly  advanced   in 
great  numbers  within  a  few  feel  uf  them,  pawing  , 
and  bellowing  in  the  nioNt  threatening  manner; 
that  they  also   lost  the  trail  after  midnight,   and 
HpcBt  the  remainder  of  the  night  in  tiring  upon 
the  bulTalo,  to  keep  them  from  nnniing  over  them. 
Their  situation  was  indeed  dangerous  in  the  ex- 
treme.    For   when   buffalo   l)econie  enrageil,  or 
frightened  in  any  considerable  nundnr,  and  com- 
mence nmning,  the  whole  herd  Ktnrt  simultane. 
ously,  and  pursue  nearly  a  right-linc  courw,  re. 
gardJess   of  obetaclcs.     So  that,  had    tliey  l)een 
frightened  by  the  Santa  Kt^ans,  or  myself,  or  any  I 
other  cause,  in  the  direction  of  my  companionH, 
they  must  have  trampled  them  to  death.     'I'he 
danger  to  b«  apprehended  from  such  an  event  was 
rendered   certain  in  the  morning,  when  we  ])er. 
eeivcd    that  tlio  whole  circle  of  vision  was  one 
black  mass  of  these  animals.     What  a  sea  of  life 
— of  niuscuiur  |iower — of  animal  api)etite — ofhes.  ' 
tttol  cnipyment!     And  if  lushed  to  rage  by  some 
iMjrvading  cause,  how  fearfid  the  ebbing  and  flow- 
ing of  its  mighty  wrath !  { 

On  the  23d  the  buffalo  were  more  numerous  '. 
than  ever.  They  were  arranged  in  long  lines  from  j 
Hie  eastern  to  the  western  horizon.  The  bulls 
were  forty  or  fifty  yards  in  advance  of  the  bands 
of  oowB  to  which  tliey  severally  intended  to  give 
protection.  And  as  the  moving  embankment  of 
wagons,  led  by  the  advance  guard,  and  Hanked  by  ■ 
horsemen  riding  slowly  from  front  to  rear,  and 
guarded  in  the  rear  by  my  men,  made  its  majestic 
way  ak>ng,  these,  fiery  cavaliers  would  march  each 
to  his  own  band  of  dames  and  misses,  with  an  air 
tliat  seemed  to  say  "  we  arc  here ;"  and  then  back 
again  to  their  lines,  with  great  apparent  satisfac- 
tion, tJiat  they  were  able  to  do  battle  for  their  sweet 
ones  and  their  native  plains.  We  traveled  fifteen 
or  sixteen  miles.  This  is  the  lUstance  usually  made 
in  a  day  by  the  traders.  Smith's  wound  was  more 
inflamed  and  |minful ;  the  wash  and  salve  ol'  the 
Indtan  chief,  however,  kept  it  soft,  and  prevented, 
to  a  great  extent,  the  natural  iuflumniation  of  the 
case. 

llic  faoc  of  the  country  was  still  an  arid  plain 
— tlie  water  as  on  the  t22d — fuel,  dried  bull'  lo  otl'al 
— not  a  shrub  of  any  kind  in  sight.  .»nother 
Btonn  occurred  to-night.  lis  movements  wert!  more 
rapid  than  that  of  any  preceding  one  which  we  had 
experienced.  In  a  few  moments  after  it  showed 
ita  dark  outUnc  above  the  earth,  it  rolled  its  pall 
over  tlie  whole  sky,  as  if  to  build  a  wall  of  wrath 
between  us  and  the  increies  of  heaven.  The  flush 
uf  the  lightning,  as  it  bounded  uiwn  the  firmament, 
and  mingled  its  thunder  with  the  blast,  that  came 
groaning  down  from  the  mountains ;  the  masses 
of  inky  durknegs  crowding  in  wild  tumult  along, 
as  if  anxious  to  lead  the  leaping  bolt  upon  us — the 
wild  world  of  buflulo,  liellowmg  and  starting  in 
myriads,  as  the  drajniry  of  this  funeral  scene  of 
nature,  avast  cavern  of  fire  was  lighted  vp;  the 
rain  roaring  and  foainiug  like  a  cataract— 411  Uiis,  i 


a  ri-eling  world  tottering  under  the  great  arm  of  ita 
Maker,  no  eye  could  m c  and  lie  unblenehed ;  no 
mind  conceive,  and  ke<'p  its  clayey  tcntmenl  erect. 
I  drew  the  carryall  in  which  .'>mitli  and  myself  were 
attempling  to  Nh'rp,  eliiHc  to  the  >^unta  Fe  wagons, 
secured  the  curtains  as  firmly  as  I  was  able  to  do, 
spread  blankets  over  the  top  and  'iround  the  sides, 
and  laulie<l  them  firmly  with  rn|)«'S  passing  over, 
under,  and  around  the  carriage  in  every  direction  ; 
but  to  litlle  use.  The  |H'netrating  |M>wersof  that 
storm  were  not  resisted  by  such  means.  Again 
we  were  thoroughly  <lrenehed.  The  men  in  the 
tent  fared  still  worse  than  ourselves.  It  was  blown 
down  with  the  first  blast;  and  the  |KX)r  fellows 
were  obliged  to  lie  closely  and  hold  on  strongly  to 
prevent  it  and  themselves  from  a  flight  less  safe 
than  parachuting. 

On  the  morning  of  the  21th,  .Smith  being  given 
in  charge  of  mv  excellent  Iiieutenant,  with  the 
assurance  that  I  would  join  him  at  the  "  Cross- 
ings," I  left  them  with  the  traders,  and  started 
with  the  remainder  of  my  company  for  the  Ar- 
kansas. 

TIk!  buffalo,  during  the  last  three  days,  had 
rovered  the  whole  country  so  completely,  that  it 
apjieared  oftentimes  extremely  dangerous  even  for 
the  immeni)e  cavalcade  of  the  Santa  Fe  traders  to 
attempt  to  break  its  way  through  them.  Wo 
traveled  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  miles  a  day.  The 
length  of  sight  on  either  side  of  the  trail,  1.5  miles; 
on  Ixjth  sides,  30  miles  :— 15X  3=.|.5X  30=1,350 
square  miles  of  country  so  thickly  covered  with 
these  noble  animals  that  when  viewed  from  a 
bight  it  scarcely  afforded  a  sight  of  a  sipiarc 
league  of  its  surface.  What  a  quantity  of  food 
for  the  sustenaiu^c  of  the  Indian  and  the  white 
pilgrim  of  these  plains  I  I  It  would  have  lu'cn 
gratifying  lo  have  wen  the  Iteam  kick  over  the 
immense  frames  of  some  of  those  bulls.  IJut  all 
that  any  of  us  could  do,  was  lo  '  guess '  or  '  reckon ' 
their  weight,  and  contend  al)out  the  indubitable 
certainly  of  our  several  8Up|)osilions.  In  these 
disputes,  two  buteliiTs  took  the  li.-ad  ;  and  the 
Hubstancc  of  their  discussions  that  could  interest 
the  reader  is,  •'  that  many  of  the  large  bulls  would 
weigh  3,(100  |Hiunds  and  upwards  ;  and  that,  as  a 
general  rule,  the  buffalo  were  n'.ucli  larger  and 
heavier, llian  the  donieslicated  cattleof  the  .Stales." 
We  were  in  view  of  \\w  Arkansas  at  4  o'clock,  I'.M . 
The  face  of  the  earth  was  visible  again  ;  for  the  buf- 
I  falo  wen;  now  seen  in  small  herds  only,  fording  the 
river,  or  feeding  upon  the  bluffs.  I*fear  nightfall 
\  \\v.  killed  a  young  bull,  and  went  into  camp  for 
the  night. 

On  tlie25tli  we  moved  slowly  along  up  the  bank 
of  the  river.  Having  traveled  ten  miles,  one  of  tlie 
men  slu)t  an  antelope,  and  we  went  into  camp  to 
avoid,  if  possible,  another  storm  that  wus  lower, 
ing  upon  us  from  the  North-West.  Hut  in  spite 
I  of  this  precaution,  we  were  again  most  uncom- 
fortubly  drenched. 

!      On  the  2Gtli  wc  struck  across  a  sonthem  bend 

in  the  river,  und  mude  the  Santa  FC  "Crossings" 

at  4  o'clock,  P.  M.,  twenty-seventh,  we  lay  at  the 

j  "  Crossings"   waiting    for  the  Santa    Fcuns,  and 

:  our  wounded  companion.     ( )n  this  day  a  mutiny, 

1  which  had  been   riiK'iiing  ever  since  Smith  was 

.  woundiid,  assumed  a  clear  asjiect.     It  now  ap. 

peurcd  that  certain   individuals  of  my  company 

i  had  dctcriiiiiicd  to  leave  JriuiiUi  to  perisli  in  Uio 


encn 

Sll|l|> 

endr 

Sinl 
dc<l ; 

HHSIl 

ordc 

won 

will 

Ihr 

iikIi 

prcf 

liltr 
Mirrt 
pniv 
ion 

llllr 


JL 


in  the  RnrJcji  Mountahm,  the  Orrcron  Territnr;/,  \i 


19 


•  (f<''>t  nrniof  itH 

imMniclu'dj  no 

f  Inilmirit  rrcct. 

mid  inymlf  were 

iiitii  fV  wugniiH, 

w  iiH  iil)lc  to  do, 

round  Iho  Hides, 

Hs  parwinir  ovit, 

rvtry  direction  ; 

|iowrr«  of  Hint 

iMi'anH.     Again 

'lie  men  in  the 

"■  It  was  l)lown 

i<!  |KK)r  fellows 

il  on  Btronfrly  to 

flight  Iras  sufo 

itii  being  jjiven 
■nant,  with  tlio 
It  the  "("roBs- 
r")  nnd  started 
iiy  for  tile  Ar. 

irec  ilnys,  had 
ipletely,  that  it 
U'erouM  even  for 
a  Fe  trufleni  to 
Il  them.      Wo 
I  a  day.     'I"hc 
trail,  1.5  miles; 
LiX  30=  1,350 
'covered  witli 
iewed   from  a 
t   of  a  S(|iiarn 
lantitv  of  food 
ind   the  whito 
iild  have  Imth 
kick  over  the 
"ills.     Hut  all 
«' or 'reckon' 
'ic  indiihiluhic 
iHH.     In  ihe.««! 
•ud;    and  tho 
•■ould  interest 
te  bulls  would 
aiHl  that,  as  n. 
;li  larger  and 
of  the  .States." 
o'clock,  r.M, 
II ;  for  the  buf. 
Iv,  fording  the 
"oiir  nightfall 
iito  camp  lor 

r  up  the  bank 
IcH,  one  of  »(k! 
into  camp  to 
it  was  lower. 
Hut  in  spite 
Host  uncom. 

ulhcm  J)end 
"  Crossings" 
we  lay  at  the 

Fcans,  and 
ly  a  mutiny, 

>Sniitli  was 
It  now  ap. 
ly  company 
etiaU  intlio 


eneampminl  wli'-re  lir  w  im  kIihI  ;  Iml  I'liillnL'  in 
«u|i|)orterfi  nl  I'H  li^irli.iriiiiH  ;i  pnipiiMtinii,  lliry  now 
endciivorc'il  Id  iK'roinplisli  llieir  (ii'Mi^n  liy  less  oli. 
)ri;lionililp  niiiiiK.  'I'liey  f.iid  il  w.ih  evi<l(  nl  if 
Sinilli  rriniiii''il  in  llie  eonipaiiy,  it  mu»l  he  divi- 
ded;  lor  lliat  llii'>,piin"  en  iImiih,  could  not  lon'jer 
nsHii('i:ili'  with  w>  liii|iuri-  a  niiin.  An<l  lliiil,  in 
order  to  prcHiivi- llic  iitiily  of  tin'  ri>iii|Kiny,  tliiy 
would  pmpiiHc  IImI  ariiin'.'ciiiriilH  ^lJllMl(l  lie  ni:i(lc 
willi  llie  S.Milii  l'"iNinM  tip  t  ilic  liiiii  iilfiii^  willi 
llii'Mi.  Ill  llii"  winli  ;i  nnijorily  of  llic  i'om;i  iliy, 
indiii'eil  liy  ii  laud  ililo  d<'sir('  lor  peai'c,  imil  Ilie 
preHervalioM  of  our  Hiiiall  force  cnlire,  in  a  c  "iilry 
tilled  with  IiiiIImii  fill's,  riMilily  iiiiited.  1  w  iR  de- 
sirtil  to  irijikr  llir  arr.iii|;iiM(til  ;  bill  my  ellbrtH 
prnvi'il  I'mitlr^H.  (fi'iilli'iMi'ii  |r;iilrrs  wrri-of  opin- 
ion III  II  il  would  li"  InzirdoiiH  lor  .Smilli,  desli.  * 
lull'  of  the  nil' iiiH  of  ^l|||l|lorl,  lo  IniMt  himself 
aiiionij  il  pi'iiple  of  wliosi'  lainrii me  lir  was 
i'^iioniiil,  anil  amoii:;  wlioiii  lie  eniild  riiiisri|i|i'iit- 
ly  ijrl  no  ( iii|iloymi'iit  ;  liirtlicr,  lliat  Smilh  had  a 
ri^'hl  lo  e\|ii'rt  prolrclion  Iroiii  his  eomradi's;j 
and  lliey  would  nil,  liy  any  act  of  theirs,  vi  lii've  | 
llii'iii  from  Ki)  sarreil  a  duly.  I  riporled  to  iiiv  , 
roiii|iiiiiy  lliiH  reply,  and  dwell  at  Icil'illl  u;i<im  the  < 
reiisous  assii;Tied  liy  Ilie  lr:iilirH.  'I'll"  imiliiieers 
were  liij.'hlv  dis|ili'asi'd  Vi"illi  llir' sironi.' r'oiiilrjima. 
li'Hi  ronlaiiii'il  ill  llii'iii,  of  llirir  iiili'iilioii  lo  desert 
liiiil  ;  and  IkiIiIIv  propoM'd  lo  leave  ."^milli  in  llie 
e  irry.all,  and  m'Ti'IIv  <li|>arl  lor  llie  iiioiiiiI:umh.— 
Hull  we  iloiie  lliis  iiiliiiiinii  ai-l,  I  II  ive  no  iloiilil 
thill  he  would  II  ive  lieeii  treated  witli  t'i'eal  hii.  ' 
nianily  iiiid  Uiinliiess,  lill  he  should  have  recovered 
from  his  woiiiid.  Ilul  llie  iiieaiiiuss  of  llie 
proposition  to  leave  asieli  coinpinioiion  llie  hands 
of  llmse  who  liail  shown  us  inilioiinili'il  kiiidui'ss, 
and  in  violalioii  of  III"  solemn  aifrceuieiil  we  Iriil 
all  I'lilered  iiilo  on  llie  rroiiliirof  Missouri — "to 
protect  each  olher  lo  Hie  l!sl  evireiiiilv" — was  so 
luanifi'sl,  as  lo  cause  < ',  W'ooil,  ,loiiriloii,  ( )akly,  .1. 
^Vooll,  ami  llliir,  lo  la!<"  <ipei)  and  slroii,f  ground 
ai;ainsl  il.  'I'liev  deelared  tint  "however  nn. 
worthy  Smilh  iiiio-ht  he,  we  could  iieilliei' leave 
him  lo  liecaleii  liy  wolves,  nor  ii|hiu  the  merev  of 
slrainjers;  .-ind  that  neillier  sliould  lie  done  while 
Ihev  had  life  lo  prevent  il."' 

Ilaviiii;  tliusaseerlaiiii".l  that  I  could  rely  uiK.n 
the  co-operaliou  of  these  men,  Iwn  of  llie  coiupi. 
iiy  made  a  liller,  on  which  llic  nnrorlunalc  man 
mi'iht  lie  liorne  lielwccn  two  iimlcs.  In  llie  af- 
lerniKin  of  llie  ;i"<lh,  I  went  down  lo  the  traders, 
tivc  miles  below  us,  lo  briivj  him  up  lo  iiueaiiip. 
(Jenllemeii  Irailcrs  ifciieroiislv  reriised  lo  receive 
any  lliin^r  lor  tlic  usi-  of  llieir  carria-^c,  and  fur. 
uislied  Smith,  when  he  lell  IIh'IU,  with  every  lillle 
comliirt  in  iheir  power  for  his  liilure  use.  It  was 
past  suiiscl  when  we  left  their  camp.  Deep  dark, 
iicss  s<M)n  set  ill,  and  wv  lost  oiir  coiirsi'  anion',' 
Ihc  wiiidin;;  liliill's.  Hut  as  I  hid  rc.isfins  to  sup- 
fiosc  that  my  presence  in  Ihc  camp  llie  ncxi  luorii- 
ing  with  i^milh  wa.s  necessary  I'l  his  welfare,  I 
drove  on  till  ^  o'clock  in  Ihc  miirnin;^-  It  was  of 
no  avail ;  the  darkness  hid  heaven  and  earlli  from 
view,  \Vc  thcrerorc  hailed,  lied  ihc  mules  lo  the 
wheels  of  the  Ciirriaj^e,  and  waited  lor  the  si;rht  of 
morning.  When  it  came,  v.'c  found  that  we  had  ', 
traveled  during  the  night  al.  one  time  up  and  at  i 
another  lime  down  Ihc  ;^lream,  and  were  then  ; 
within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  traders' camp,  <  hi 
rcachiiitj  my  cnuampmcnt,  1  I'oiuid  every  tliiiijj ,. 


ready  lor  marching — fcnl  hack  the  carryall  to  ils 
owners,  and  alleinplcd  lo  swing  Smilh  in  his  lil- 
ler for  the  march  ;  liiil  lo  our  great  disappoint* 
niciil,  il  would  iiol  answer  the  purpose.  Ilow  it 
was  |iossible  lo  convey  him,  appeared  an  impiiry 
of  the  most  painful  imporiaMcc,  We  dclilx-raled 
long;  but  an  impossihilily  birred  every  ntleinpt 
to  remove  ils  dililcullies.  We  hud  no  carriage; 
wc  could  not  carry  him  upon  our  sliiiiildcrs ;  it 
seemctl  impossible  for  him  lo  ride  on  hurHchaek  ; 
the  mill iiieers  were  moimled;  Ihc  coiiipany  was 
ahaid  lo  slay  lunger  in  Ihc  vicinity  of  theCii- 
maiii'he  Indians,  with  so  many  animals  to  lenipt 
lliem  to  take  (iiir  lives;  the  Santa  Fii  wagons 
were  uuiying  over  llie  hills  ten  iiiilcM  away  on  the 
oilier  side  of  the  river;  Iliad  alijurcd  Ihc  com. 
maud,  and  had  no  coulrol  oyer  the  movements  of 
the  company  ;  Mvo  of  the  individuals  who  had  de- 
clared lor  mer'  v  Inward  Simlli  had  gone  with  Ihc 
traders;  then  was  but  one  course  lilt— one  eftbrt 
llril  could  be  ni'idc  ;  he  must  allcmpt  lo  ride  tin 
easy,  gciillc  mule.  If  thai  failed,  llmse  who  had 
111  Irieiided  him  would  not  then  liirsikc  him, — 
Alioiil  II  o"clock,  Iherelbrc^  on  Ihc  ijlttli,  Siiiilh 
being  carefully  moiiiiled  on  a  pai'iiig  mule,  oiir 
faces  were  liirneil  to  lleiil's  trading-post,  llilt 
miles  up  Ihc  \rkaiisaN,  ( liic  of  the  principal  mil. 
liiieers,  a  hard. laced  villain  of  no  honest  niemorv 
iimong  the  the  Iriders  ii|ioii  llie  I'lalle,  assumed 
lo  guide  and  cnmmand.  His  malice  toward  Smith 
was  oi  llie  liilli  rest  ell  iracler,  and  he  had  an  op. 
portnnilv  now  of  making  il  lell.  With  a  grin 
iipnii  his  lonir  ,ind  wilhcied  physiiignoiny,  that 
sli  iilov.a'd  oiil  the  licndisli  dilii^ht  of  a  heart  long 
iiieap able  of  heller  ell lol ions,  he  drove  oft' at  a  rate 
which  none  but  a  well  man  could  have  long  en. 
(hired,  ll's  innlivc  for  this  was  easily  uiidcrst(Hid, 
If  we  fell  behind,  he  wiiulil  gel  rid  of  the  wound, 
ed  man,  wliose  presence  seemed  lo  he  a  living  ev- 
idence of  his  iiimdei'oiiK  intenlioiis,  thwarted  and 
eiisl  back  blistcriii'r  upon  his  already  sulliciently 
fold  cliariclcr.  He  would,  also,  if  rid  of  those 
persons  who  had  dcvdled  themsilycs  to  saving 
him,  be  able  to  induce  a  large  number  of  the  re. 
maindir  ol  the  company  to  put  themselves  under 
his  especi  il  gil  inli  iiiship  in  llieir  journey  through 
the  moiiutains;  and  if  we  should  be  destroyed  by 
the  ('umanche  Indians  thai  were  prowling  around 
our  way,  the  blickuess  of  his  heart  might  be  hid. 
den,  awhile  nl  least,  from  Ihc  world. 

'I'hc  nipid  riding,  .iiid  Ihc  exiremc  warmth, 
well. nigh  proslraleil  the  rcniaiiiiiig  slrcnglh  of  Ihc 
invalid.  He  (liinled  once,  ami,  had  like  to  have 
fdlcii  headlong  to  the  ground  ;  but  all  this  was 
dclighl  to  the  sell'-constiliiled  IcaiU'r ;  and  on  he 
drove,  bclabnring  his  own  horse  unmercifully  to 
keep  up  the  giiil  ;  and  ipioliiig  Richard's  soliloipiy 
with  a  salisfactinn  and  emphasis,  that  seemed  lo 
say  "the  winter ''  of  liin  discontent  had  passed 
away,  as  well  as  that  of  his  ancient  prototype  in 
villany, 

'i'hc  Uufl'alo  wen^  seldom  seen  during  the  day  : 
the  herds  were  heeoniing  fewer  and  smaller, — 
.Some  of  the  men,  when  it  was  near  night,  gave 
chase  to  a  small  hand  near  tlic  tr.ack,  and  succeed, 
ed  ill  killing  a  yoniig  hull,  \  line  fresh  steak, 
and  night's  rest,  cheered  the  invalid  for  the  fa. 
tigucs  of  a  long  ride  the  following  dav.  And  a 
long  one  it  was.  'J'wenty-live  miles  iinilcr  a  burn- 
ins  ^ui)  ^'^''(''  "■  '''S''  '^'ver,  and  tluec  broken  ribti, 


20 


Travels  in  the  llrcai  Wcaleni  Prairies, 


requirprt  the  urrntput  nttrnlion  fwin  hin  fripniln, 
unci  thr  cxirtioii  nl'  llir  iitiiinHt  rnniiiiiiii;  nirrnirs 
of  ihr  iitiliirliiniili'  in.iii.  H.iw  tliMiii;li  lie  w.ih  in 
rvrry  lliiiii;  lli:il  makcH  ii  ni.iii  rslinmlilc  iiiiil  v;iln. 
itblc  lo  liiiiiM  U  Mini  iillicrn,  Siiiilli  WiiH  rrallv  an 
nl)jr<M  of  |iity,  niid  llir  mcwt  ;ihHi<liu>iiH  crirc.  Ilif 
roiirli  wiiH  K|irrii(l — liiH  ni|i  (if  Wiilcr  fii  fli  friiiii 
the  Hirriiiii,  wiim  iilwiiyK  hy  Iiim  hIiIi' — iiinl  IiIh  fiKid 
|irr|)iir('(l  ill  llic  immt  |iiil:it.'ililc  niitiiiiir  wliicli  mir 
rimiiiiiiliiiK'fN  |iiriiilllr(l.  Kvcry  lliiiij;  iiidicd 
tilut  li.n  Irii'iidH  (im,  iml  IiIh  frlciidM,  for  lir  wnn 
liu'u|mcitiilrd  li>  iitt.icdi  cillicr  [\\r  (rnod  cir  llir  liiid 
to  liiH  priHoii,  bill  lliKHC  wild  I'liiiiiiiiiaiTMli'd  IiIn  rill). 
ilitii>n,)  I'oiild  (III,  WUN  d(iii(<  tu  iiiiiki'  liiiii  ((iiii. 
fortiililc. 

Ill  (•(iiiMiTlion  with  this  kiiidiirss  lichlowcd 
on  Smith,  bIiohIiI  he  ri|((;ilrd  Ilic  n;iiiii'  nf  Mliiir, 
nil  (lid  iiK  ch.iiiii'  from  MisHouri,  who  Joined 
my  comiiMiiy  !il  the  ('ninsiinjM  of  tlii'  ArUiiiiHiiH. 
A  mini  of  II  kiiiilrr  hiMrl  iicvir  cxiwlcil.  h'roiii 
the  pliirr  when'  lir  jiiincd  im  Id  ( )|ci;oii  Territory, 
when  invHclf  or  (illiers  were  worn  with  fiiliirne,  or 
(liseaBe,  or  Htarvalion,  he  \v:ik  iiKviiyH  ready  lo  ad- 
liiiliiBler  whatever  relief  waH  in  liin  |Miwer.  lint 
towardit  .'^mith  in  liiH  lielpleHS  eonditioii  he  wan 
mprriallv  ohlinihj;.  lledrecHed  liin  wound  daily. 
Il(t  nlepl  near  him  at  niL'lit,  and  rone  lo  Kiipply  hit" 
leant  want.  And  in  all  the  lryi,i|;  (liHii'iillieN  tlial 
ocenrrrd  iilon)/  onr  perilous  joiirncv.  it  was  lii» 
(rreatest  d<lij;lll  to  ditrnso  pe.iee,  eoinforl,  anil  eon- 
tcnliiirnt,  to  the  exl('nt  oflii«  iiitlneiiee.  I  can 
never  for(;et  the  jjood  old  man.  lie  had  heeii 
elieated  out  of  his  properly  hy  a  near  relative,  of 
pretended  piety  ;  iiiiil  liad  left  Die  ehoseii  hi  eiies  of 
liiH  tnilH  and  hopes  ill  seareli  of  a  nsidiiiee  in  llie 
wilderiicFS  heyoiid  the  iiiounlaiiis.  For  the  purpose 
■  'I 


yellinii ""'  'heir  'aire ;  nnH  tmmpinp,  pnwinj;,  full. 
111(1  ll|ioll  their  knees,  imd  learinix  llie  earth  with 
llieir  horns;  lill,  as  if  iinahle  lo  keep  down  Ihe 
sil'ely. valve  of  iheir  eoiira^o  iiiiy  loiiger,  IliPy 
would  liimlile  into  the  nlream,  and  Ihiiiider,  nnd 
wade,  nnd  swim,  nnd  whip  the  wall m  wilh  theii 
tails,  and  Ihiis  llirow  olVa  ipianlily  of  liraverv  per- 
frelly  irresiHlilile.  Iliil,  like  Ihe  wralli  and  eoiirii(.'i 
of  eertain  nieniln  rs  of  Ihe  hipeil  race.  Iliese  niiiiii. 
feKtatioiiM  wern  not  hnllel-priMil  ;  for  Ihe  eraek  ol  a 
rille,  nnd  Ihe  niiiii;  111  ot  a  linllet  alioni  their  rilis. 
opiTiiled  inslaiilaneonsly  us  an  niuiilviie  lo  nil  siieji 
like  iiervons  exeilalioii.  We  pitehed  (Hir  lent  ill 
iiillhl  near  Ihe  river,  '('here  was  no  limlier  nnur. 
Hill  after  n  loiij;  and  ledioiis  Hcareh  we  (rnllierpd 
tire. wood  enoiiL'h  lo  make  onr  eveniiiu  lire. 

The  f.iHl  ndiiiL'of  the  day  had  wearied  ,'<inith 
I'xeeeiliii'ily.  An  hour's  rest  in  camp  had  resloreil 
ed  him,  however,  lo  siieli  an  exieiil,  thai  onr  aiix 
ietv  its  lo  his  aliililv  lo  ride  lo  lieiil's  was  miieli 
diiniliished.  lie:  iiolile  mule  proved  too  iiimhle  inul 
easy  lo  irralify  Ihi  inaliecof  Ihe  vairalsinil  loader. 
The  ninhl  liioiii.rlii  lis  its  usual  Irilmli — n  slorm. 
Il  w.is  as  Hcvrri  a'*  any  we  had  experieiieed.  Il 
We  may  dislinu'iiitli  hdweeii  the  severilie*  ol 
these  iiwl'iil  timinlls  of  nature,  Ihe  tliiiiider  was 
heavier,  deeper,  more  like  the  expirini;  (jroaii  of 
the  woild.  '{'he  wind  also  w.ih  verv  severe.  Il 
eanie  in  lonir  iiiiHts,  loaded  wilh  larjre  dropii  of 
rain,  that  struck  tliioiiirh  the  canvass  of  onr  tent, 
lis  if  il  had  heen  cair/.e. 

The  liisl  day  <d' June  L'ave  lis  a  lovely  morning. 
The  i^rass  looked  L'recn  upon  Ihe  flinty  plains. — 
Nor  dill  the  apparent  fact  that  they  were  doomed 
lollie  eoiislaiil  reeiirrenee  of  loni;  draii(,'lilslakn 
from  lliein  some  of  the  inlerest  that  ijathrrH 
around  the  hills  and  dales  wilhi'i  Ihe  lines  of  the 
.■^laUs.     There  is  indeed   a  wide  dilVerenee  in  the 


ofjjelliiiS  to  the  ()rei;on  Territory,  he  had  hired 

hiniFelf  ton  i;entleiiiaii  of  Ihe  traders"  earavaii.  v.illi 

the  inlentionof  iioiii'j  lo  the  eoimlry  hy  Ihe  way  of     oulliiie  of  Ihe  surf  lee  and  the  prodnetions  of  llies)! 

New  Mexico  nnd  Cililiirnia.   .\ii  lionesl  m:in — an      reirions.      In  Ihe  plains  there  are  none   of  Ihe  pv. 


honornlile  man — a  henevolenl,  kind.sy  nip  ilhiziiiir 
friend — Iip  deserves  well  of  those  who  may  have  the 
good  fortune  lo  heeonie  actpiaiiited  with  his  unpre. 
tondinc  worth. 

Ontlie3iMli,  Iwpniy.rivc  miles  up  the  river. — 
This  morniiiK  the  miscreant  who  acted  as  leader, 
exchanged  liorses  that  he  niiifhl  render  it  more  dif. 
ficiilt  for  Siiiitli  lokeep  in  company.  Diirinjr  the 
CI  tire  (lny"s  inarch,  Shakspeare  was  on  the  tapis. 
I'oor  old  genllemairs  dust  and  ashes  1  If  lliere 
be  cars  of  him  nhoiil  Ihe  ugly  world,  to  hear  his 
imnii' bandied  hy  boobicH,  and  his  immortal  verse 
mangled  liy  barbarians  in  civilized  elolhing,  those 
oars  Blood  erect,  and  his  dust  crawled  with  iiidig. 
nation,  as  lliis  savacfc  in  nature  and  practice,  dis. 
charged  from  his  polluted  mouth  the  inspirations 
of  liis  genius. 

Tiie  fact;  of  the  country  ^vns  such  as  tliat  found 
ever  since  we  struck  llu^  river,  l/mg  sweeping 
blufTs  swelled  away  from  Ihe  water's  edge  into  the 
l)oimdless  jdains.  The  soil  was  a  composition  of 
Rand  and  clay  and  gravel.  Tin;  only  vegelation — 
the  short  furzy  grass,  several  kinds  of  prickly  pear, 
a  stinted  growth  of  the  sun  flower,  and  a  few  de- 
crcpid  cotton-W(K)(l  trees  on  the  margin  of  the 
Btrcnm.  The  south  side  of  the  river  was  blackened 
by  th(!  noisy  builido.  And  it  was  amusing  when 
our  trail  led  us  near  the  bank,  to  observe  the  rising  , 
wrath  of  the  bulls.  They  would  walk  with  a  state. 


crgreeii  ridges,  the  cold  dear  sprint"!,  and  snug 
tlowerini  vallies  of  .New. Kngland;  none  of  the 
pulse  of  busy  men  that  beats  from  the  .\llanlic 
llirouirh  Ihe  uniat  Ixidy  of  liiiman  iiidiislry  to  tile 
weslern  border  of  Ihe  repiililie  ;  none  of  the  sweet 
villages  and  homes  of  the  old  .Saxon  race.  Hut 
there  are  Ihe  vast  sav.imiahs,  resembling  ni(dlen 
seas  of  emerald  sparkling  with  flowers,  arrested, 
while  stormy,  and  heaving,  and  fixed  in  elr ma! 
ri  |Mise.  Nor  are  there  lowing  herds  there,  and  bl(?n. 
ling  flocks,  that  dipendeiKc  on  man  has  reiidorrd 
subseryient  lo  his  will,  lint  there  arc  tlieri^  thou- 
sands of  lleet  and  silent  antelope,  myriads  of  the 
bellowing  biilValo,  the  perpelnal  patriinony  patri- 
mony of  the  wild,  uncullivated  red  man.  And 
however  other  races  may  prefer  Ihe  haunts  of 
tlufir  childhood,  the  well-fenced  domniii  and  tho 
stall-pampered  beast — still,  even  they  ennnot  fail 
lo  perceive  the  same  fitness  of  things  in  the  beau- 
tiful adaplalion  of  these  eondilions  of  nature  to 
the  wants  and  pleasures  of  her  uncullivated  lords. 
We  iiiadi^  ir>  miles  on  the  Ist  of  .Inly.  The 
blulVs  along  the  river  began  to  be  striped  with 
strata  of  lime  and  Hand-stone.  No  trees  that 
could  claim  the  denomiiuilioii  of  timber  appeared 
in  sight.  Willows  of  various  kinas,  a  cotton- 
wood  tree  at  intervals  of  miles,  wnc  all.  And 
so  utterly  sterile  was  the  whole  country,  that,  us 
night  apiiroaclied,  wo    were   obliged    carefully  to 


of    HlJ 

eam|| 
ll< 

ipi  iril 

CMIII|I 

mlerJ 
111111111 
mi-oil 
mcnj 

IMf 
llie 
llieiiil 
III  III 
servi 


lot 


b'.lil.l 
saw 
that  1 
II  ho 
I'luiil 
the 
"h. 
ibiiM 
llie  1 
of  ol 


ly  trsad  upon  the  verge  of  tho  bank,  ut  timei  ulmost  |i  learch  along  tho  rivcr'i  bendi  for  a  plat  of  graii 


in  Ihe  RocJei/  Mounluins,  the  Ortgon  Terrilnrij,  ffc. 


2t 


IR.  |mwrii!»,  full. 
a  flir  riirlli  wilh 

>  krrp  (JDU'ti  llir 
l.V  longer,  tliry 
I'l  lliiilldrr,  iinil 
■il<  m  Willi  ilicii 
V  "I'liniviTv  |iir. 

■  idl  IIIKJ  COIirilirc 
"•'',   llll'NC    llllllll. 

ir  the  inii'k  <>l  n 
"li'iiil  their  liliH. 
iilyiiPloiill  Hiieli 
in(l  (iiir  lent  III 
11"  liiiilicr  iiriir. 
I'll  "■!■  jrnllicret! 
'imiU  lire. 

"ciirlril  Smilli 
np  lind  reHloreil 
I,  that  our  anx 
Ill's  \v:iH   iniieli 

too  iiiinMi'  mill 
ij.''!!*'!!'!  Iniidrr. 
iliiilr— n  Morin. 
tprririiced.  1 1 
(•  pcvcrilin*  oi 
"•  llniiider  WiiK 

lirill^r  (rro.-lll  ol 
ly  Kivcre.  It 
liirjr,.  drops  of 
IBS  of  our  lent, 

>vcly  ninniinjr. 

liiity  plains 

'  Were  doomed 
draiifihlstakn 
lliat    irathorH 

I'  lines  of  the 

I'erence  in  thii 
•lionnof  thew! 
of  the  rv- 

iL'i,  and  Hniifr 
none  of  the 
the  Atlantir, 
idiistry  to  the 
'  of  thcBweol 
I  raee.  But 
hlinjr  molten 
<T».  arrewted, 
1(1  in  eleriKiI 
■re,  iind  blca. 
has  rendered 
'  Iheit^  thou. 

vriadH  of  thi! 
imony  i)atri. 
man.     And 

ic  liamitH  of 
lain  and  the, 

>'  cannot  fail 

I  in  the  bean. 
[if  nature  to 
ivalcd  lords. 
•Inly.  'I'he 
striped  with 

>  trees  that 
tier  ajipcared 
s,  II  cotton, 
•c  all.  And 
fry,  tlmt,  us 
carefully  to 
>lBt  of  grui 


of  miirinriit  Ki/.e  to  feed  our  aniinnln.  Our  en. 
•'ainpmeni  was  \'i  iiiilrs  above  ('hotiaii's  Nlulid. 
Here  wan  rcpealecl,  Icir  the  tweiilielli  tune,  llir 
•pi  irrel  alHiiil  llie  relative  moral  nlentfi  of  the 
company  'I'll is  \\;\*  always  a  i|iie«lion  of  deep 
iliterepl  uilli  tlir  imilmeerM ;  and  in  inv  were  Ihe 
aiiiUHiiiLr  arirmiieiilsaildiiied  and  iimiHled  upon  as 
ini'onli'Hlihle,  Id  prove  llieniHelves  (rriat  men,  purr 
men,  and  salntii.  Iliil  as  Ihrre  was  minli  ilitlir- 
em'e  of  opinion  on  maiiv  |hiiiiIh  inlrodiieeil  into 
■  he  ilehale,  the  aiillior  will  not  lie  ev|>i'elei!  lo  re- 
member all  the  iiii|i"rlanl  lud^emcnls  rendered 
HI  Hie  prniiisi  H.  Il,  linwever,  my  rreolleelioii 
serves  nie,  i|  was  ad|iidire(l,  on  the  aiilliorily  of  a 
ipiol  ilion  from  .""li  lUspeaie,  tli  'tour  <lislin'_'iiished 
leaiiri-  was  llir  "Illy  mall  ninoii;;  us  that  ever 
saw  the  plains  or  moiinlaiiis — the  only  one  of  us 
(hat  iver  dniM-  an  o\.vvai;"n  up  Hie  I'latH — stole 
a  horse  anil  rille  Iniiii  his  employirs — opeiud  anil 
plundered  a  "  eai'lii'"  of  (;rH)dM — and  r.in  baek  lo 
the  .States  Willi  well.foumleil  preleusioiis  to  an 
"honest  eliar.ieter."  Matters  of  this  kind  In^in^' 
thus  Halisrailijiily  settled,  we  nave  ourwlves  lo 
the  musipiitiM  s  lor  the  nii;ht.  'I'hese  eomp  mioiis 
of  our  Hliepmir  hours  were  iiiiieh  ultaehed  to  us — 
an  amiable  ipnlily  that  "  rims  m  the  bhsxl ;"  and 
not  unlike  tlie  liirtlirn;hl  virtues  of  aonthiT  rate 
111  its  elVecl  upon  our  liappmeMK. 

I I  can  srareely  l)i'  imparl  lu;;  information  lo  niv 
leaili'is  to  say  that  We  pasw'il  .isleepliss  nielli.  Hiit 
il  is  due  111  llie  Lmards  cMilside  Hie  Iciii.  to  remark, 
that  eaeh  and  every  of  them,  maiiil'ested  the  must 
priiiHiwoilhv  viyilaiiee,  watehliihii'ss,  and  iniliis. 
try,  dmiiii;  the  entire  mi,dil.  So  kern  a  sense  of 
duty  dill  imiHipiil'i  beaks  impart. 

'('be  111  At  day  we  traveled  I'J  miles,  and  fell 
ill  with  a  liaiid  of  hiiU'do.  'I'liere  lieinir  a  cpian- 
lity  of  wood  near  at,  hand  wherewithal  to  (!iire 
meat,  wi'  d(leriiiiii''il  to  dry,  in  this  place,  wh  it 
miifht  be  niediil,  till  wc  should  fall  in  with  hutKi. 
lo  a^aiii  biyniid  Ihe  liimtiii'i-ifidunds  of  the 
Messrs.  Iteiil'-..  ."^oiiie  of  the  nii  ii,  lor  this  pur- 
pose,  filed  oil'  to  the  gaiiir,  while  the  remainder 
formed  the  eu  •  inipnieiil.  Tile  eliase  was  spirit- 
ed and  loii'f.  They  sin'ei  edid.  however,  in  hriu'.'- 
iiii;  down  two  noble  bullocks  ;  and  led  their  horwes 
in,  loaded  with  Hie  ehoieest  meat. 

III  prepnriii;^  and  jerkin;;  our  meal,  our  man 
of  the  slob  11  rifle  here  nhsmiied  extraordinary 
jsiwers  in  Ihe  man  i);enient  of  allairs.  Like  otli. 
cr  braves,  arm  in  hand,  he  reeoiinled  the  exploits 
of  his  past  life,  consislin;;  of  the  i  ntert  limnenl 
of  HcrioilK  iiilriiliiiiin  lu  b  ive  killed  some  of  the 
men  that  had  left,  h  id  they  remained  wiHi  us  ; 
and,  also,  of  /loic  ilinifriron.s  hix  irnttit  wiiild 
linre  hern  in  the  settlements  and  el.sewnere.  had 
any  indii;nily  been  otl'ercd  to  his  honor  able  per- 
son,  or  hispiantalion  ;  of  which  latter  be  held  the 
fee  simple  title  of  a  "sipialler."  On  this  point 
"  let  any  man,  or  (.iovernincnt  even."  said  he. 
"  attempt  to  deprive  nie  of  my  inl)oni  rii;lils,  and 
my  rille  shall  be  the  jiidije  lietwceii  us."  "  (joy- 
crnment  and  laws  !  what  arc  tlicy  but  im]Wsition8 
upon  Ibo  freeman."  With  this  ebullition  of  wrath 
ut  the  possibility  that  the  institutions  of  society 
inijrht  demand  of  him  a  rillc.  or  the  tiovernnicnt 
a  price  of  u  portion  of  the  public  lands  in  his  |)08. 
session  '  J  appeared  satisfied  that  be  had  convinced 
us  of  bis  moral  acumen,  and  sat  himself  down, 
with  hii  woU-fed  (uiil  corpulent  coadjutor,  to  ilico 


the  iiirat  lor   drying'.      U'liilc    IIiiih    enira'.;id,    lin 

ai;iiiii    raisi'd    the  voier  of  wisdom.     " 'I'hrse  ile. 

moeralie  parlies  lor  Ihe  pi  unn  1  I   wh  it   are  they  ' 

what  IS  eipialily  any  where  '     A  OiiIkc."     "  (Jno 

iiMisI  rule;  tbn    rest  olsy,  and  no  (,'rnmblini;,    by 

(i**I"     The    imitinecrH    were    vastly   edilied  by 

these  timely   iiihtnietions  ;  and  the   man  of  part* 

eeasini;  'o  spciik,  direeted  his  atleiitii   i  ;  ,  iilyin({ 

the  meat.      Ili',  however,  whiii  broke  lorth  a|r,  in, 

toiiiid  laiilt  Willi  every  arran<rement  that  had  hi  en 

made — anil    with    his  ow  n    mighty  arm  w  roui;lit 

Ihe  chiuii,'es  be   desired,     (iod,  angels,  and  devils 

wen-  alternately  invoked  liir    aid   to  keep  his    pa. 

,  tieiiie  up  111  llie  trials  ol  his  "resjioiisible  stalioii.'' 

j  Me  inwhile  be  was  rousing'  the  lire,  aire  idy  biirn- 

I  iiii;  lierei  ly,  to  more   activity    and   still  more,  till 

]  the  droppiiiir    jrre.ise    bl.ized,  anil  our  seall'old    of 

I  nieat  w.is  wrapped  in  llamcH.     "  'I'ake  that  meat 

ill'"  roared  the  man    of  |Miwer.     ,\o  one  obeyed, 

mil  His  (ircatness  slood  still.     "  Take  that  meat 

itV."  he  cried  a;;ain.  with  the  emphasis  and  mien 

I  of  an  Kmpcror  ;  not    dei;;iiin;;  liiniM  If  lo  soil  IiIm 

j  runs,    by  obeyiii!;   bis   iiw  n    comin and.     No  one 

obeyiil.   'I'lii'  meat  liiirniil  rapidly.    His  ire  wa.vd 

I'll  hit;h  ;  bis  ti  elli  iiromid  U|hiii  each  other;  yet, 

I'stranu'c  to  record,  no  mortal    was  so  niueli  frijjli'. 

'  <  lied  as  lo   li>  e<l    his   eomni.ind.      .\t   leii'.Mh    bis 

sublime  l.irhc  irancc  h  id  an  end.     The  (jicit  man 

seized   the    blazini;    iiicil.    in  the  spirit  in  which 

.Napoleon  S(  i/.ed  the  liriil;;e  of  liOili,  d.islii-d  it  up. 

on  Ihe  ^I'liund.  raisi-d  Hie  temperalure    of    his  liir 

:  ners  lo  the  blislerin;;  point,    and  rested    from  his 

labors. 
I       The    moral    sense    is  said  lo   have  l)ern  coeval 
I  and    coextensive    with  the  liumaii  race.      Indeed, 
there  are  niaiiy  facts  to  sii]i|Hirt  this  opiiiiou.   Hut 
I  a  doubt  is  Honietinies    thrown    over  the  exihlence 
'  of  this  siibslratiim  of  liiimaii  ris|ionsibilil y.  by  the 
pre|Hiniler.itin!j    inlliienee    of   the    baser   passions 
I  over  all  the  hallowed  impulses  of  the  social  atl'ee. 
lions,  and  the  desire  to  be  just.    When  the  bandit 
enters    the   eavc   of  the    lonely  forest,  (llled  wilh 
the  tiiiils  of   bis    crimes,  or  the  pirate  treads    the 
I  (.'oiy  deck  of  his  vessel  far  at  sea,  doi'S  not  the  so. 
;  cial  priiieiple.  the  senlimcnt  of  ri{;ht,  of  liumuni. 
ty.    wither,  if  it  ever  existed  lliere,  beliirc  the  oft. 
eii-hi'ated  fuinaciMif  habiln  d  vice  '      .Nor   is    thf 
case  chaii'^ed  in  the    arid    plains  of   the   Wesl.- 
I  The    mind    that  his    trloated   itself  on  dishones 
j  acts,  has  wrenched    Iroiii  the  widow  and    orphan 
the  pill.mic  of  comlort  that  the  L'raye  has  spared 
'.  tliem.  has  rioti'd  ii])on  the   corpse  of   every  virtue 
thai  adorns  oin"  nature,   finds  no  allev'ation  of  its 
■  liab  fill  propensities,  when    nothin^r  but  desolation 
and  the  fearful  artillery  of   the  skies  op|)OBe    their 
'  manifestation.     Hut   still,  when    reason  controls, 
j  who    does    not   believe  that  in  the  coinimsitioii  of 
our   mental    lain;;,  there  is  a  sentiment  of  moral 
titncss.     .\nd,    iiideid,    in    my  little    band  there 
were  some  in  whose  Ixisonis  its  saitred  tires  burned 
britrhtly  under   the  most   liarrassinij    ditliculties, 
and  1  believe  will  continue  to  adorn  their  charac- 
ters with  its  holy  suhduiufj   ligbt  under  the  dark- 
est sky  that  malevolence  and  misfortune  will  cvpr 
cast  over  Hieii).     Nor   would  I  be  understood   to 
confine  iIuh  tribute  of  my  aft'ection  and  jrood  will 
to  those  that  penetrated   the  mountains  with  me, 
and   endured    hardshipB,    hunger,  and  thirst  with 
nie,  unioiii;  its  desolate  vallies.     There   were  oth- 
en  who  left  the  company  for  the  Platte,  Santa  Fi, 


22 


Travels  in  the  Great  Weslcrn  Prairies, 


ami  tlic  Sntrs,  v.lin  deserve  the  liiL'lusl  pruise  for 
their  grneroiiH  sinlininita,  ;iiid  patient  anil  manly 
endurance  of  tiillirinj;. 

Three  dayn  nioie  liiliuuin;;  travel  aloni;  the 
bank  of  the  ArktinsiH  1  rnu.'hl  ns  to  the  tradin'j- 
post  of  the  !\Iei--srH.  I!enls.  It  was  about  H  o'clock 
in  tile  afternoon  of  the  ."jlh  of  Jnly.  when  we  came 
in  tiiijbt  of  ilK  noble  hatllcnienls,  and  NirueU  onr 
e.iinivan  into  a  lively  pace  down  the  swell  of  Ihi^ 
nei^diborinu  plain.  The  stray  nudes  that  we  nad 
in  eliarfre  lielonijin!;  to  the  Ifi  nts.  sccntcci  their 
old  (irazin'r  ground,  and  irallopped  cliecrfMlly  on. 
ward.  And  onr  hearts,  relieved  from  the  anxie- 
ties that  liad  nia<lc  onr  camp,  for  weeks  ])ast.  a 
travclin'x  babel,  l<'a)ied  for  joy  as  the  i;ates  of  the 
fort  were  thrown  ~pen  ;  aiiil  "  welcome  to  Tort 
William" — the  hearty  wi'leonie  of  fellow-eoim- 
tryinrn  in  the  wild  wilderness — greeted  ns.  I'eaee 
again — roofs  atjain — safely  again  from  the  winged 
ari-ows  of  the  savage — relief  again  from  the  de- 
pravi'd  suggestions  of  iiihninanily — bread,  ah  I 
bread  again — and  a  prospeei  of  a  delighlfnl  tramp 
over  the  snowv  highls  between  me  and  ( Iregon. 
with  a  few  men  of  trne  anil  generoii;-  s|iuits,  were 
home  of  the  many  sources  of  pleasure  that  slrng- 
jfled  with  my  shiridwrs  on  the  first  niirhl's  tarry 
among  the  hospitalities  of  '•  Fort  William.'' 

i\Iy  coiii|)any  was  to  disband  hen — the  proper, 
lylield  in  common  to  be  divided-.aiid  I'a.h  individ. 
nal  to  be  left  to  his  own  resources.  .\nd  while 
these  and  other  things  are  being  done,  the  read(  r 
will  allow  nie  to  inlrodiice  him  to  the  (ireat  I'rai. 
rie  '.Vilderiiess.  and  the  In'ings  and  millers  I  here- 
in contained. 

CIlAi'TKU  HI. 

Thk  Great  Prairif  Wililerm'ss— iis  Kivers  anfl  Soil— iu 
Peoplp  and  Iheir  Terriittrics— Clinc.iaw.'*— (;hirka.'>aws— 
Ch»'nikf*c«— (Jreeks — SJcaccis  anti  Mia-.vnees— Seiiilrn!es 
—  P'ttlawoniiiies— Wra>4 — [*i'>rtkn>ha.s — Peniias  ami  Kas- 
ka»kia<< — t>Ilowas — Sliawnefsor.*^h^wannis — Delavvairs  — 
KHosan^— Km  kapoos— Sauks  and  l'\ixr.',— I(>w;i*— Otoes — 
Onit^has—  Pntk;alis—  Pawners,  rfnii  ant.- — Cariiiikanag — 
tnnianche,  rrniriains— Kriittinaux— .Naudow  is-efl  or  Hioux 
— *:hipp^way<,  and  llinir  tradiliuie.. 

'I'liK  tract  of  eoiinlrv  to  which  I  have  thought 
il  titling  to  apply  l!ie  name  of  the  "  (Ircal  I'laiiie 
Wilderness,"  embraces  the  terrilory  lying  bidwccn 
the  . "States  of  Iioiiisiana,  .Arkansas,  and  Missouri, 
and  the  I'pper  Mississippi  on  the  east,  and  the 
lllack  Hills,  and  the  e.i-itern  ranire  ol'  the  Rocky 
and  the  Cordilleras  moimlaiiis  on  the  west.  <  lie 
thousand  miles  of  loiiLriliide,  and  two  llions  iiid 
miles  of  latitude,  •J.OIill, 111)11  sipiare  miles,  cipial  to 
1  ,:2'<(l,ll(ll),lll»l)  acres  of  an  almost  mibroken  jilaini  I 
The  sublime  Prairie  Wilderness  !  I 

The  |H)rtion  of  Ibis  vast  region  UDII  miles  in 
wiilth,  along  the  coast  of  Te.\as  and  the  frontier  of 
the  States  of  liouisianii,  .\rkansas,  and  Missonri. 
and  that  lying  within  the  same  disiaine  of  the  l']). 
per  .Alississiiipi  in  the  Iowa  Terrilory,  |Kissess  a 
rich,  deep,  allnvial  soil,  capable  of  prodiic-iii'_r  ilie 
most  abundant  crops  of  the  grains,  vegelablis  iVe. 
thai  grow  in  such  latitudes. 

Another  [Kirtion  lying  west  of  the  irregular 
wesleni  line;  of  that  just  descrilxil,  "illO  miles  in 
width,  extending  from  the  month  of  SI.  Peters 
Hivcr  to  the  Kio  Del  Xorto,  is  an  idmosi  nnbro. 
ken  plain,  dcstiliiti!  of  trees,  save  here  and  Ihere 
one  scattered  at  inlcrvals  for  many  miles  along 
the  banks  of  tlu^  sIreamK.  The  soil,  except  the 
intcrvaUul'  iiontu  of  llic  Kiverri,   is  coinjioscd  of 


coarse  sand  and  clay  so  thin  .and  liaril  that  it  is 
diHiciilt  for  lrav(  lers  to  ])enelrati-  it  with  the 
stakes  Ibey  carry  with  them  wherewithal  to  fas. 
ten  their  animals  or  spread  their  tents.  Never. 
Ilieli  ss  il  is  covered  thickly  with  an  extremely 
;  nutritious  grass  peiniliar  lo  this  region  of  country, 
the  blades  of  which  arc  wiry  'ind  almiit  '2  inches 
I  in  bight. 

(       The  remair.dcr  of  this  (Ireat  Wilderi'.ss  lyiiif; 

I  three  lie.ndred  miles  in   width    along  the  Kastern 

!  Radices  of  the  Itlack  Hills    and  that    part  of  the 

Rocky  mountains  between  the  I'lalleand  the  Ar. 

kansas,  and  the  Cordilleras  range  east  of  the  Rio 

Del  \orle,  is  the   arid    waste    iisiiallv    called  the 

,  '  (Ireat  American   Deser'.'     Its  soil    is  composed 

of  dark  gravel  ini.ved  with  the  sand.   .Some  small 

:  |K)rlions  of  it,  on    the   banks  of  the   slreimis,  are 

covered  with  tall  Prairie  and  bunch  grass  ;  others, 

with  w  Id  wormwood  ;  but    even    these    kinds  of 

vi-geta.ion  decrease  and  finally    disappear  as  you 

apjmii'ch  Ihe  mountains.     A   scene  of  desolation 

scarce  y   cipialed  on    Ihe  eonliiient    is  this,  when 

;  viewed  in    the  dearth   of  mid-summer    from  the 

I  bases  <  f  the  Mills.      .Miove    you    rise    in  snbliinc 

'  confusion,    mass    upon    mass,    of  shattered   clills 

;  through  which  are  sirugirling  the  dark  foilage   of 

,|  stinted  shrub-cedars  ;  while    below    yon    spreads 

!  far  and  wide  the  liMrul  and  arid  desert,  whose  >-o\. 

'I  emn  silence  is  seldom  broken  by  Ihe  tread  of  any 

'  other  animal  than   the    wolf  or    Ihe    starved  and 

■  thirsly  horse  that   hears   the   traveller    across  its 
.:  wastes. 

'I"be  principal  streams  that  inlersect  the  (Jreat 
,   Prairie  wilderness  are  the  Colorado,  the   Urasos, 
i  Trinity,  Red,  .Arkansas,  (Jreat     Platte    and    the 
l'  Missonri.     The  latter  is  in   many   respects  a  no. 
ble  slream.     Not  so  miicb  so  indeed   for  the  in. 
tcnvairse  it    opens    between    the     Stales    and  tla^ 
plains,    as    the    the;  're    of    iigricullure    and    the 
:  other  [)nrsults  of  a  densely  populated  and  distant 
'  inli'riiir  ;   for  these  ]ilains  are  loo  barren  lor  gener. 
al  I'ullivalion.      liiil  as  a  ehaniH  I    for    the  trans, 
portation  of  heavy  arlilliTy,  inllilary  ;-tori's,  troops, 
iVc,  lo  posts  that  miisl  ullini.ately    bi' established 
along  onr  northern  frontier,  it  will  be  of  the  high- 
est n.se.     In  the  months  t)f  April,  M^iv,  .md  .lime 
il  is  navigable  for  sti  .in. boats  to  the  (ileal  Kails; 
but  the  scarcity  of  Water    during    the  remainder 
of  the  year,  as  well  as  the  searei'y  of  wood   and 
coal  alonu:  its  banks,  its  steailily  r.ipid  enrreni,  its 
tortnons  course,  its  falling  banks,    timber  imbed- 
lied  in  till'  mud  of  its  eliani:el,  and  ils  constantly 
shifting  sand  bars,   will    ever    prevent    Its  waters 
from  being  exienslvely  naviealed.   how    gieat  so- 
'  ever  may  may  be  the    d'lnaud    for  it.      In  that 
p.irt  of  il  which  lies  above  the  mouth  of  the  l,il. 
lie  Missouri  and  the  trilinlaries  tlowiini  into  it  on 
either  side,  are  said    to    be    many    eb.irmipg  and 
productive  vallies.  separated    from    each  other  by 
secondary  rocky  ridges  sptirsely  eoyered  with  cv. 
ergreen  trees;  and  high  over  all,  far  in  the  .South 
Wist,  Wist,  and  North   West,    tower    into  view, 
the  ridges  of  the  Rocky    Moimlaiiis,  whose  iiicx- 
'  lianslihie  magazines  of  ico    and    snow  have  from 
'  age  to  age  supplied  these  valleys  with  refri'shing 

■  springs — and   the    Missonri — liie    (ireat  Platte — 
,:  the  Colnmbia — and  Western  Colorado  rivers  with 

their  tribute  to  the  Seas. 
j       Lewis  and  Clark,    on    tlieir  way    to  Oregon  in 
I   1SU5,  iiwdo  the  Portu;;e  at   the   iireut   l'"«lls,  Id 


iu  the  Rochj  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  Sft 


23 


linnl  tliat  it  ig 
Ir-  it  with  tlin 
'U-illial  to  las. 
tents.  Never- 
an  exlrrniely 
ion  of  conntry, 
[ilKiut  i2  ineliea 

ilderiN'SS  Iviitjj 
\<X  tlu'  Kasteni 
at  part  of  the 
le  and  tlie  Ar- 
ast  of  the  Uio 
illy  railed  llie 
il  is  eoniposed 
il.  Some  small 
e  streams,  are 
grass  ;  others, 
these  kindii  of 
<a|)pear  as  you 
'  of  desolation 

is  this,  when 
mer  from  the 
si>  in  suhlime 
ihattererl  elills 
'ark  I'dilaije  of 

yon  spreads 
ert,  whose  sol- 
e  fead  of  any 
e  starved  and 
Her    aeroas  its 

seet  the  fireat 

0,  the  rinisos, 
altc  and  the 
respeets  a  no. 
ed  for  the  in- 
tales  and  tla^ 
lure  and  the 
d  and  dislant 
■ren  for  gener- 
I'or    the  trans. 

:-fores,  troops, 
he  eslahlished 
!•  of  the  high, 
lav,  .mil  ,hme 
■('Jreat  Falls; 
tiii^  remaimh'r 
of  \\  ood  and 
lid  enrreni,  its 
liinher  Nuhed. 
its  eonslantly 
nt  its  waters 
low  pi  cat  so- 
r  it.  In  that 
Ih  of  the  l,i|. 
•iii!r  into  it  on 
•harniiii'j  and 
eaeh  other  hy 
ered  with  ev. 
•  in  tlie  ."^outli 
er    into  view, 

1,  whose  iiiex- 
)W  have  from 
illi  refreshing 
Ireat  IMalte— 
do  rivers  with 

to  Oregon  in 
cut   iulLs,  la 


miles.     In  this  distance,  the    water  deseends  3fi3  '! 
feet.     The  lirst  great   pite.li  is  1)8  feet,  the  second 
1!),  the  tliird  \^,  the   fourth   26.     Smaller  rapids 
make  up  the  remaininder   of  the  descent,     .\lter 
passin<j  over   the    I'ortagc   with   their   lioats  and 
baggage,   tlicy   again    entrusted     themselves   to 
tlic  turbulent  stream — entered  the   chasms  of  the 
Kocky  mountaina  71  miles  alwve  the  upper  rapids  i 
of  the  Falls,  penetrated  them  180  miles,  with  the 
mere  force  of  their  oars,   against   the  enrreut,  to  ' 
(tallatiii,    Madison    ami    JetVerson's    Forks — and 
ill  tlie  same    manner   ascended   .lefTerson's  IJivor  i 
248  miles  to  the  e.xtreine  liead  of  navigation,  ma.  ; 
king  from  Oie  inouth  of  the  Missouri  whence  they  '■ 
started    HUDli   miles ; — 429    of  which  lay  among 
tlie  suhlime  crags  and  clifls  of  the  Mountains. 

The  (>reut  Platte  has  a  course  hy  its  Northern  i 
Fork  of  about  ITiOO  miles  ; — and  by  its  i^onthem 
Fork  somewhat  more  than  that  distance  ;  from 
its  entrance  into  the  .Missouri  to  th(^  junction  of 
these  Forks  aliout  40(1  miles.  The  North  Fork 
rises  in  Wind  River  Mountain — north  of  the 
(ireat  Pass  through  liOng's  rang<'  of  the  Kock^' 
Mountains,  in  Latitude  42°  North.  The  South 
Fork  riwB  100  miles  We.it  of  .lames  Peak  and 
within  1.5  miles  of  the  jioiiit  where  the  .Vrkansiis 
escapes  from  the  chasms  of  the  Mountains,  in 
liatitude  ,39°  North.  This  river  is  not  navigable 
for  Btcamlioats  at  any  season  of  the  year.  In  the 
spring  floods,  tlie  Battaux  of  the  .American  Fur 
traders  descend  it  from  the  T'orls  on  its  Forks. — 
But  even  this  is  so  liazardous  that  they  are  begin-  ' 
ning  to  prefer  taking  down  their  furs  in  wag</ns 
hy  way  of  the  Konsas  Riverto  Westporl,  Missouri, 
thence  by  steam-lioat  to  St.  Louis-  During  the  ' 
summer  and  autumn  months  its  waters  arc  tfio 
shallow  to  noatai:anoe.  In  the  winter  it  is  hound 
in  ice.  Useless  as  it  for  purposes  of  navigaation, 
it  is  destined  to  be  of  grc;>t  valuft  in  another  rc- 
sjieet. 

The  overland  iravel  from  the  .Sfate.-i  to  Oregon 
and  ("alifoniia  will  find  its  great  highway  along 
its  b.anks.  l*o  that  in  years  to  come  when 
the  Federal  Governmen'  shall  taki'  possession  of 
its  Territory  Wvst  of  the  Mountains,  the  hanks 
of  this  stream  will  he  studded  with  fortified  posts 
for  the  protection  of  countless  caravans  of.Vmer- 
icaii  citizens  emigrating  thitlier  to  establish  their 
alKide  ;  or  of  those  that  are  willing  to  endure  or 
destroy  tlic  jictty  tyranny  of  theCalifornian  tiov- 
ernmeiit,  for  a  residene(^  in  that  most  beautiful, 
(iroductive  country.  ICven  now  loaded  wagon? 
can  pass  without  serious  interruption  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Platte  to  navigable  waters  on  the 
Columbia  River  in  Oregon,  and  the  Bay  of  , Sim 
Francisco,  in  Calilbrnia.  .And  as  it  may  interest 
my  readers  to  peruse  a  description  of  these  routes 
given  mi'  hy  difTerent  individuals  who  had  often 
traveled  them,  I  will  insert  it.  "  Land  on  the 
north  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  ;  follow  up 
that  stream  to  the  Forks,  400  miles  ;  in  this  dis- 
tance only  one  stream  where  a  raft  will  he  needed, 
and  that  near  the  Missouri ;  all  the  rest  fordible. 
At  the  Forks,  take  the  north  side  of  the  North 
one  ;  14  days  travel  to  the  tlie  Black  Hills;  thence 
leaving  the  river's  hank,  strike  oft'  in  a  North 
West  dircelion  to  the  ywcet-water  branch,  at "  In- 
de;,eiidctice  Rock,"  (a  large  rock  in  the  plain  on 
whicli  tlie  old  trajipers  many  years  ago  carved  the 
word  "  Indepcndciico"  uiitl  tlioirowu  namciii  oval 


in  form  ;)  follow  up  the  Sweetwater  ,3  days ;  cross 
it  and  go  to  its  head;  eight  or  ten  day's  travel 
Ibis  ;  then  cross  over  westward  to  the  head  waters 
of  a  small  creek  nmning  Southwardly  into  the 
Platte,  thence  westward  to  Big  .Sandy  creek  2 
days,  (this  creek  is  a  la;ge  sliaam  coming  from 
Wind  river  Moimtiiins  mi  the  North  ;)  thence  1 
da_v  to  Little  Sandy  ireek — thence  westward  over 
'1  or  4  creeks  to  (ireen  River,  {\\•\^  ii  name 
.^heetsUadee,)  strike  it  at  the  niouliirif  Horse 
creek — follow  it  down  .3  days  to  I'ilot  Bute; 
theiice  strike  westward  one  day  to  Hams  Fork 
of  lireen  River — 2  davs  up  Hams  Fork — thenco 
West  one  day  to  iMiiddy  Branch  of  Orcat  Bear 
River — down  it  one  day  to  (Jriat  Bear  River — 
down  this  4  days  to  Soda  Springs;  turn  (o  the 
right  up  a  v.illey  a  quarter  of  a  mile  helow  the 
Soda  .Springs  ;  follow  it  uj>  in  a  North  West  di- 
rection 2  days  to  its  head  ;  there  take  the  left  hand 
vallev  leading  over  the  dividing  ridge  ;  1  day  over 
to  the  waters  of  Snake  River  at  I'ort  Hall ;  thence, 
down  snake  River  20  days  to  the  junction  of  the 
Lewis  and  Clark  River.s — or  20  days  travel  west- 
wardly  by  the  .Mary's  River — llii nee  through  a 
natunil  and  easy  jiassage  in  the  California  .Moun- 
tains to  the  navigable  waters  of  the  San  .loiquiii 
— a  iiohle  stream  emptving  into  the  Bav  of  San 
Francisco."  Tlie  Platte  therefore  when  consider- 
ed in  relation  to  our  iiitercomsc  with  the  habita- 
ble eoiintrion  on  the  Western  Ocean  assmnes  an 
imeipialed  imporlancc  among  Ilii!  streams  of  the 
(Jreat  Prairie  Wilderness  1  But  for  it,  it  would 
be  ini)iossihle  for  man  or  beast  to  travel  those  arid 
jilains,  destitute  alike,  of  wood,  water  and  grass, 
save  what  of  each  is  found  along  its  course.  Up- 
on the  head  watel.  of  its  North  Fork  too  is  the 
omIv  way  or  opening  in  the  Rocky  ^lounlains  at 
all  praciicable  for  a  c,  rriage  road  throngli  Ijieiii. 
That  traversed  by  Lew  !;•  and  v  'lark  is  covered 
with  ])erpetual  snow  ;  that  near  tlu  delMiuchurc  of 
(he  .Smith  liirk  of  the  river  is  over  liigd,  and  near. 
ly  impassable  precipices  ;  tliat  traveled  hy  myself 
farther  south,  is,  and  ever  will  be  impassable  for 
wheel  carriages,  lint  thi'  (ireat  (Jap,  nearly  on 
a  right  line  lirtwciu  (he  mouth  of  Alissoiiri  and 
I'ort  Hall  on  Clark's  River— the  )inin(  where  the 
trails  to  California  and  Oregon  diverge — seems 
designed  hv  nature  as  the  great  gateway  between 
the  nations  on  (lie  Atlantic  and  Pai'ific  seas. 

The  Reil  River  has  a  course  of  about  l.,VMI 
miles.  1 1  derives  its  name  from  a  rediiisli  color 
of  its  water,  proilueed  hy  a  rich  red  earth  or  marl 
in  its  banks,  far  up  in  the  Prairie  Wilderness.  So 
ahimdantly  is  this  mingled  with  its  waters  during 
the  spr'.ig  I'reshets.  that  as  the  tloods  retire  they 
leave  upon  ilie  lands  they  have  overfiowed  a  de- 
posit of  half  an  inch  in  thieklies.'..  Three  hundred 
miles  from  its  mouth  eommence.--  what  is  called 
"  The  Raft,"  a  covering  lormed  by  drift-wood, 
which  coneials  the  whole  river  lor  an  extent  of 
ahoul  40  miles.  .\ml  so  dee|>ly  is  (his  immense 
bridge  covered  with  the  stdimcnl  of  (he  stream, 
(bat  all  kinds  of  vegetable  eominon  in  its  neigh- 
Iniriiood,  even  trees  of  a  considerable  size,  aro 
growing  iipoB  i(.  The  annual  iiiundationN  arc 
said  to  he  cutting  a  new  channel  near  the  bills. 
Stcambxits  ascend  the  river  to  the  Rait,  and  might 
go  fidv  leagues  above,  if  thai  ohstruction  witc  re- 
moved Above  this  latter  point  the  river  is  said 
to  be  cl)lburral^Bcd  by  many  ruiiidB,  i>ituUowH,  fullMt 


24 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


iind  saiidburH.  Indord,  for  70(1  inilcR  its  broad  bed 
is  rrprcacntcd  to  bo  iui  rxtonsivc  and  |M'rfpct  Knnd 
bar  ;  or  rallicr  a  wrics  of  sand  bars  ;  anionsj  wliich 
during  Ibo  suniinrr  nionlhs,  the  water  stands  in 
jionds.  As  you  approach  tbi"  nioiinlaiiiK,  however, 
it  boconics  contrurtrd  within  narrow  hinits  over 
a  gravelly  bottom,  and  a  swift,  clear,  and  abund. 
ant  stream.  The  waters  of  the  Kid  |{iver  are  so 
bnekisb  when  low,  as  to  be  unfit  for  common  use.  I 

The  Trinity  River,  the  Firazos,  and  Ibc  Rio 
Colorado,  liavc  each  a  course  of  alniul  IliDII  miles, 
risini;  in  the  plains  and  mountains  on  the  North 
and  Northwest  side  of  Texas,  and  runninj^  South 
Southeast  into  the  (Juif  of  Mexico. 

The  Rio  Hravo  del  Norte  boimds  the  Circat 
Prairie  WiUlcrness  on  the  South  and  South-west. 
It  is  lt),")l)  miles  loni;.  The  extent  of  its  uavifta. 
tion  is  bltlo  known.  Lieutenant  I'ike  remarks  in 
regard  to  it,  that  "for  the  extent  of  four  or  live 
liundrcd  miles  before  vou  arrive  near  tli<'  moun- 
tuins,  the  bed  of  the  river  is  extensive  and  a  per. 
feet  Band  l)ar,  which  at  a  certain  season  is  dry,  at 
least  the  waters  stand  in  pomis,  not  ittbrding  suf. 
lieieut  to  jiroeure  a  runnini;  cou^.c.  NV'lien  yon 
come  nearer  the  mountains,  you  tind  the  river 
contracted,  a  gravelly  IkjIIoui  and  a  deep  naviga- 
ble stream.  From  these  circuinstaiK'cs  it  is  evi- 
dent tiiat  the  sandy  soil  imbiliis  all  the  waters 
wliieh  the  sources  pro'tict  I'roni  the  mounttiins,  and 
rcnderr  the  river  in  diy  seasons  /r.v,s'  imriirnlilf  tirr 
hnitilnd  mill's,  than  'JUO  from  ils  source."  Per. 
haps  wc  should  undeisland  the  lienUinnt to  mean 
that  .')()<)  •  iles  of  sand  bar  and  li'W  milcss  innne- 
diately  1-  ,w  its  source  being  taki  ii  from  its  whole 
course,  tne  reiiiaindir,  !l.)0  miles,  wonld  be  the 
leu'ithof  its  navigable  waters. 

The  Arkansas,  ul'ti-r  ihc  Alissoun,  is  the  most 
considerable  river  of  the  "ouutry  under  considera- 
tion. It  takes  ils  rise  in  that  e!'"<ler  of  secondary 
iiiounlains  which  lie  at  the  caste!  bascof  the  .\ii. 
ahuac  Kidge.  iu  latilude  II'-  iS'orlh — SO  or  1)0  miles 
North-west  of  .lames  Peak.  It  runs  .about  'JilO 
miles — first  iu  a  southerly  and  tleii  in  a  south- 
easterly dircclion  among  tlnse  mountain  ;  at  one 
time  along  the  most  eh  irmiiig  valleys  and  at  an-i   1   uded  to  prove   that  their  proximity  to  the  whitcH 


condition,  manners  and  customs,  &c.  I  will  give 
a  brief  account.  And  it  would  wcni  natural  lo 
commence  with  those  tribes  which  reside  in  what 
is  called  "  The  Ii.dian  Territory  ;"  a  tract  of  coun- 
try  lK>unded  south  by  the  Red  River,  cist  by  the 
States  of  Arkans,iB  and  Missouri — on  the  north- 
cast  and  north  by  the  Missouri  and  Punch  Rivers, 
and  west  by  the  western  limit  of  habitable  country 
on  this  side  of  the  Rocky  .Mountains.  This  the 
National  Govenunent  has  purchased  of  the  indi. 
gcnons  tribes  at  specific  prices  ;  and  under  treaty 
stipulations  lo  pay  them  certain  annuities  in  cash, 
and  certain  others  in  facilities  for  lea"niug  the  use- 
ful arts,  and  for  acquiring  that  knowledge  of  all 
kinds  of  truth  which  will,  as  is  supposed,  in  the 
end  excite  the  wants — create  the  industry — and 
confer  njion  thciii  the  happiness  of  the  civilized 
state. 

These  benevolent  intentions  of  Government, 
however,  have  a  still  wider  reach.  .Soon  aiter  tlia 
lOnglish  |Hjwer  had  been  extinguished  here,  the  cu. 
lightened  men  who  had  raised  over  its  ruins  the 
temples  of  equal  justice,  began  to  make  etrorts  to 
restore  to  the  Indians  within  the  colonies  the  few 
remaining  rights  that  Uritish  injustice  had  left 
within  their  power  to  return;  and  so  to  exchange 
property  with  llicin,  as  to  secure  to  the  several 
.•States  the  right  of  sovereignty  within  their  several 

'  limits,  and  to  the  Indians,  the  fnuctionsofa  sovc. 

I  reign  [lower,  restricted  in  this,  that  the  tribes  shovdd 

I  not  sell  their  lands  to  other  person  or  liody  cor|X)r. 

;  ate,  or  civil  authority,  beside  the  (iovcrmnent  of 
the  (Jnited  .States;  and  in  some  other  reRl>eclsre. 
stricted,  SI)  as  to  pres<'r\-e  peace  among  the  tribes, 
prevent  tyranny,  and  lead  them  to  the  greatest 
iiappiness  they  arc  capable  of  enjoying. 

And  various  iiiid  nimieroiis  were  the  etlbrts 
in  ide  to  raise  and  ainelioralc  their  condition  in 
iheir  old  haunts  within  the  precincts  of  the  .States. 
IJut  a  total  or  partial  ftiilure  followed  them  all.  In 
a  lew  eases,  indeed,  thi'rc  seemed  a  certain  pros- 
pect of  final  success,  if  the  authorities  of  the  States 
in  which  Ihey  resided   had    permitted  them   to  re- 

1  iM nil  wlicr"  they  were.      Rut    as   all   experience 


other  through  1  be  most  awful  ebasms— till  it  nish- 
<'S  from  theiji  with  a  foainiug  curri'Ul  in  l.ililude 
39'^  .North.  Kroiu  the  pl.ice  of  ils  delioiichure  toils 
(iitr.anee  into  llie  Mississippi  is  a  dislauee  oi'lilSl 
miles;  its  total  length  'IW.i  miles.  .Miout  TiO 
miles  below,  a  tribiilary  of  this  sireaiii.  (-alleil  the 
(irand  Saline,  a  series  of  sand-bars  comiuenee  aii<l 
run  down  the  river  several  bimdred  luiles.  Among 
them,  during  the  dry  season,  Ihe  water  slaiidsiii 
isolated  ]hjo1s,  with  no  apparent  current.    Hut  such 


induced  among  them  more  vice  than  virtue;  and 
as  the  (Jeiieral  GoverumenI,  before  any  attempts 
had  !>■  en  niidc  lo  elevate  them,  had  become  obli- 
gated lo  remove  them  from  many  of  the  Slates  in 
111  which  they  resided,  both  the  welfare  of  the  In. 
diaiis,  and  the  dulv  of  the  (Jovcrnmcnt,  urged 
I  heir  colonization  in  a  portion  of  the  western  do. 
main,  where,  freeil  Ironi  all  iinestions  of  confiictinff 
sovereignties,  and  under  the  protection  of  the 
I'liion,  and  Iheir  own  municipal  regulations,  they 


is  thi'  (|n  iiilily  of  water  sent  down  fioiu  llie  moun- ''  iiiighl  find  a   refuge  from   those   intlueiices  whicli 
tains  by  this  noble  stream  in  the  lime  o!   Ihe  an-'  llircatened  the  annihilation  of  their  race. 


nual  frchhcls,  that   there   is  siillieient   deplli  even 
upon  these  bars,  to  lloat  large  and    heavy   boats  ; 


The  "  Indian  Territory  "  lias  been  selected  for 
this  purpose.  And  assuri'dly  if  an  iuexhauslible 
and  having  once  passed  these  obstructions,  they '[  soil,  producing  all  tlii^  necessaries  of  life  in  greater 
eim  be  taken  up  to  llie  plac-e  where  the  river  es- ,j  abundance,  and  with  a  third  less  labor  than  they 
capes  from  Ihe  crags  of  the  mountains.  IJoals  in.  j  are  prod  iced  in  the  .\tlantic  Slates,  with  excellent 
tended  lo  ascend  the  river,  should  start  from  tliei!  water,  fi  legrovesoftimlicrgrowiug  by  the  streams, 
mouth  alKiut  the  \s\  of  i''cbru  iry.  The  .Vrkansasj  rocky  d.fls  rising  at  convenient  distunces  for  use 
will  hp  iwl'ul  in   conveying  munitions  of  war  lol  among  the  deep  alluvial  plains,  luines  of  iron  and 


our  southern  frontier.  In  the  dry  season,  flie  wa- 
ters of  this  river  are  strongly  iinpregn.ited  with 
salt  and  nitre. 

There  arc  alwml  Kt,"),000  Indians  inhabiting  the 
Groat  Pn  ui9  WddnrncH,  of  whoaa  .locial  nnd  civil 


had  ore  and  coal,  lakes  and  springs  and  streams  of 
salt  water,  and  innumerable  quantities  of  butTalo 
ranging  throngh  their  lands,  arc  sullieient  iiidicu. 
tiona  that  this  country  is  a  suitable  dwelling-place 
for  a  raccof  nicit  which  is  pauiiiK  from  tliu  iavag* 


in  the  Rucky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  S^v. 


2S 


tc.  I  will  (jive 
ni   niitiiral  to 
rrsirio  in  uluit 
tract  of  coun. 
cr,  cist  by  the 
"'1  lliR  north, 
'iinrh  Rivers, 
itahlp  nountry 
«•     'I'his   the 
I  of  tlie  ineli. 
'indiT  treaty 
iilicH  in  cisli, 
iiiiiarlhciiHo. 
"lediro   of  all 
x"*'''!,   in  thn 
idustry — and 
the  civilized 

Government, 
>ooii  niit-r  tho 
hfre,  the  en- 
its  ruins  the 
ike  efForta  to 
"lies  the  few 
IPC  had  left 
to  exchunffe 
tlie  several 
their  He veral 
nsof  a  80VC. 
tribes  should 
Mdy  (^orjjor- 
'eninient  of 
respects  re. 
■r  the  tribes, 
the  greatest 

i  the  ellbrls 
condition  in 
"  the  States, 
leuiall.     In 
'rtaiu  proH- 
)f the  States 
heiM    to  re. 
e.«|ierii>nec 
)  the  nhitcM 
.'irtue;  and 
>y  attempts 
econie  ubli. 
le  Slates  in 
of  the  In. 
eut,  urged 
vcHtcra  do. 
eon(lictin}r 
ion  of  the- 
tions,  they 
lees  which 

elected  for 
xhauHlible 
ill  greater 
than  they 
excellent 
e  streams, 
J"*  for  use 
'  iron  and 
itrea?ns  of 
of  I'litlalo 
lit  iiidicu. 
iiiff-placo 
11)  lavage 


f 


'o  the  civilized  condition,  tho  Indian  Territory  has 
l)eirn  well  eliosen  as  the  home  of  tlies<^  uiilorlunite 
people.  'I'liither  the  (Government,  for  the  last  thirty 
years,  has  been  eudeavorins;  to  iii(bic<'  tho.se  within 
the  jurisdiction  of  tho  Slates  to  emiirrate. 

'i'he  (Joveniment  punOiast^  the  land  wliieli  the 
emifrratinjj  tribes  leave — ),'iviu(j  I  hem  others  within 
the  Territory  ;  transport  them  to  their  new  alnxie; 
erect  a  ixirtioii  of  their  dwelling's  ;  ploim^li  and 
fence  a  portion  of  their  fiebls;  Cuniisli  them  teach- 
ers of  aifriculture,  and  implemints  of  husbaiuhy, 
horses,  ealtb  <.Vc. ;  erect  school  houses,  and  sup. 
port  te^ichers  m  thein  the  y'""'  ioiin<l;  mihe  pro- 
vision for  the  siibsistcnci'  ol'  Iho.se  who,  by  reiison 
of  their  recent  emiffratiou,  are  unable  to  subsist 
theuiselvis  ;  and  do  every  other  act  of  bcnevoli  'ice 
ncei'ssary  to  put  within  their  ability  to  enjoy, 
not  only  all  the  jihvsieal  comforts  that  they  left 
iKliind  them,  but  also  every  reipiisiti;  facility  and 
eneourafjeinent  to  become  a  r<'asf)nini;,  cullivatcil, 
and  happy  (leople. 

Nor  does  thissjiirit  of  libeialitv  stop  here.  The 
great  doctrine  that  (lovernmenl  is  formed  to  coll- 
ier U])Oii  its  subjects  a  greater  (legrce  ol' happiness 
than  they  could  <iijoy  in  the  natural  stale,  Ins  sug- 
gested that  the  system  of  hereditary  chicftaneics, 
and  its  depeiidaut  evils  among  the  tribes,  should 
yield,  as  circumstance  s  may  permit,  to  the  ordina- 
tion of  nature,  the  Huiiremacy  of  intcllert  aiul  vir-' 
tiic.  Accordingly  it  is  contemplated  to  ns<'  tlii' ' 
most  ctficient  means  to  abolish  them — making  the 
rulcrsclectivc-establishiiiga  form  of  government  in 
each  tribe,  siinilar  in  department  and  diitiis  to  our 
State  tiovcrnmcnts,  and  uniting  the  tribes  under  a  : 
(Jencral  (iovcniment,  like  in  jjowers  and  functions 
to  that  at  VVashington.  j 

And  it  is  encouraging  to  know  that  some  of  the  i 
tribes  have  adopted  this  system;  and  that  the  Go.  ■ 
vcrnmeni  of  the  Union  has  been  so  far  encouraged 
to  hope  for  its  ailoptioii  by  all  those  in  the  Indian  I 
Territory,  that  in  1H.17  orders  were  i.ssued  from 
the  Department  of  Indian  atJairs,  to  the  .Superin- 
tendent of  Sur\'cys,  toseU'ct  ami  rejiort  a  suitabi' 
place  for  the  Ceulral  (iovcmmenl.  A  selection 
was  accordingly  made  of  a  charming  and  valua- 
ble tract  of  land  cm  the  (Isage  river,  abfuit  7  miles 
squ.irc  ;  Mhich,  on  account  of  its  cfpial  distance 
from  the  northern  and  southern  line  of  the  Territorv, 
and  the  beauty  and  excellence  of  the  surrounding 
country,  appears  in  every  waj'  adapted  to  its  con- 
templated use.  It  is  a  little  ovir  Hi  miles  from  the 
western  line  of  Missouri.  Any  member  of  those 
tribes  lliat  come  into  the  confederation,  may  own 
property  in  the  district,  and  no  other. 

The  indigenous,  or  native  tribes  of  the  Indian 
Territory,  ari'^the  Osages,  alKiul  .'i,.">lll;  the 
Kanzaus  or  Caws,  1,7'20;  the  Omilias,  1,11)11; 
theOtoeanil  Missouri,  I, tiOO  ;  the  Pawnee,  10,111111; 
Pimcaii,  800;  tjiiapaw,  OOO— making  •JI,C-liO.— 
The  tribes  that  hive  emigrated  tliitln  r  from  the 
States,  an'— the  Choctaw,  l.'i.tiOO.  Thisestimite 
includes  900  while  men,  married  to  Choctaw  wo- 
men, and  GOO  negro  slaves.  The  Chickasaws, 
r>,:)00  ;  the  Cherokccs,  29,000.  This  estimate  in- 
cludes 1  ,'900  negro  slaves,  owned  by  them.  'Phe 
Cherokecfl  (including  !hlO  slaves) '  99,000;  the 
Creeks  (including  303  n.-gro  slaves)  99,r)00  ;  the 
Scnecas  aiidShawnces.Kil  ;  (he  .'Vminoirs,  l,riO0; 
the  Potlawatamies,  1,(!,">0;  the  VVeas, 'JOi;  ;  Ih" 
PiankashuB,  157;  tiic   Pwrias  uiid  Ivusk;\skius' 


M2;  thcOltowaH,  2(n;  the  Sh.awnceK,  S33 ;  tho 

Delawa.es,  091  ;  the  Kiekajioos,  100;  the  Sanks, 
(100;  the  lowas,  1,000.  It  is  to  be  nn<lerst(H)d 
that  (he  numbers  assiirned  to  the  emigrant  trilie-s 
represent  only  Iho.'.e  portions  of  tluiii  that  lia-.e 
actually  rinioved  to  the  Territory.  Large  num. 
hers  of  .several  tribes  arc  still  within  the  liordersof 
the  .Slates.  It  appears  from  the  alKjve  tabb  s,  then, 
tint  79,')00  have  li:n!  lands  assiguid  them  ;  and, 
abating  the  relalls  ■  ert'cets  of  births  and  deaths 
among  lliiin  in  increa^ang  or  diminishing  their 
numbers,  are  a<'tuilly  residing  in  the  Territory. — 
'i'liese,  adiliil  to  '91,1101)01  the  indigenous  .-ibes, 
amniint  to  1)  l,SI)l)  imdir  the  fostering  cire  of  the 
Ki'dcral  (loveninieiit,  in  a  fertile  and  delightful 
country,  (iOI)  miles  in  lenglli  frnm  north  to  south, 
and  east  iud  west  I'roni  the  froiilicrof  the  Uepub. 
lie  to  i..e  deserts  of  the  moun'.aiiis. 

'i'lie  Choctaw  country  lies  in  the  exiren.e  Houth 
of  the  'I'errilory.  Its  boundaries  are:  on  the 
south,  the  Red  Kivcr,  which  separates  it  from  the 
Kepnblic  of  'I'exas  ;  on  the  west,  by  that  line  run. 
ning  from  the  Red  River  to  the  Arkansas  River, 
whii'b  separates  the  Indian  American  Territory 
from  that  of  .Mixio;  on  the  north,  by  the  Ar. 
kaiisas  and  the  Canailian  Rivers  ;  and  on  the 
east,  by  the  Slate  of  .\rkansas.  'I'his  tract  is  ca- 
pable of  prodiK'ing  the  most  abundant  crops  of 
the  small  grains,  Indian  corn,  flax,  he;iip,  tobacco, 
cotton,  &e.  The  western  portion  of  it  is  poorly 
supplied  with  timber ;  but  all  the  distance  from 
the  -Arkans'is  frontier  westward,  '900  miles,  and 
extending  UiO  miles  from  its  northern  to  its  south- 
ern boundary,  the  country  is  cap.iblc  of  sup|xirt- 
ing  a  jiopniatioii  as  deusi;  as  that  of  England. — 
19,900,000  acres  of  soil  suitable  for  immediate 
settlement,  and  a  third  as  much  more  to  the  west, 
ward  tl  at  \i'oiild  produce  the  black  locust  in  ten 
years  after  planting,  of  siiHicient  size  for  fencing 
the  very  eonsidei.dile  part  of  it  which  iu  rich 
enough  for  agricullural  purposct  will,  dimbtlcsf, 
sustain  any  inercasid  population  oi  this  tribe  that 
can  reasonably  be  looked  for  during  the  next  .500 
years. 

Tiiey  have  sullercd  much  from  sickness  inci. 
dent  to  settlers  in  a  new  country.  But  there 
appear  to  bi'  no  nit  oral  causes  existing,  which, 
in  the  known  order  ol  things,  will  renrler  their 
location  perm  inenllv  uiihi'althy.  On  the  other 
bald,  since  they  have  become  somewhat  imirej 
to  IIk-  change  of  eliiu;ile,  they  are  ipiile  as  healthy 
as  the  whiles  near  thiiii ;  and  arc  improving  in 
civilization  and  coinlort ;  have  many  large  f.\rins ; 
much  live  stock,  such  as  hfirses,  mules,  cattle, 
sheep,  and  swine  ;  three  flouring. mills,  two  cot- 
ton-gins, eii^bty-cight  looms,  and  two  hundred 
and  twiiitv  spinning-wheels  ;  carls,  wagons,  and 
other  farmiu!;  utensils.  Three  or  four  thousand 
Choelaws  have  not  yet  settled  on  the  lands  as. 
signed  to  them.  A  jiart  of  these  are  in  Texas, 
between  the  rivers  IJrazo.s  and  Trinit)',  300  in 
number,  who  located  tliemsolv-;s  there  in  tho 
time  of  the  general  emigration  ;  and  others  in 
divers  places  in  Texas,  who  emigrated  thither  at 
various  times,  twenty,  thirty,  and  forty  years 
ago.  Still  another  band  continues  to  reside  east 
of  the   Misissippi. 

The  Choctaw  \ation,  as  the  tribe  denominates 
itself,  has  adopted  a  written  constitution  of  Gov- 
ernment, similar  to  the  Constitution  of  the  Uai- 


26 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


ted  States.     Their  Deelarution  (if  Ri-rlils  hc  jurcs  j]  tlie  Pri'siilent  of  the  Unitod  Slates,  for  the  term  of 
to  all    ranks  and  wrts    eijiiul    ri;;lils,  liluTly  of  1:  "JD  years.     Also,  (ho  sum   of  )j!:i,,")00  is  to  lie  i\|i. 


conscience,  and  triai  hy  jury,  ite.  It  may  be 
altered  or  amended  by  the  National  Council. 
They  have  divided  their  country  into  four  judi- 
cial  districts.  Three  of  them  annually  elect  nine, 
and  the  otlier  tliirteen,  members  of  the  National 
Assembly.  They  nie(!t  on  Ihc  first  Monday  in 
October  annually  ;  or(rani7.i'  by  the  election  of  a 
S|)eaker,  the  necessary  clerks,  a  li(jlit-liorseman, 
(stTjjeant-at.arms,)  and  do<ir.keeper  ;  adopt  by- 
laws,  or  rules  for  their  governance,  wliile  in  ses- 
sion ;  and  make  other  reifulations  requisite  for 
the  systematic  transaction  of  business.  The  jour, 
nals  are  kv'pt  in  tli<^  Enirlish  langua};e ;  but  in 
the  proifress  of  business  are  read  otV  in  Choc, 
taw.  'I'he  iii'climinary  of  a  law  is,  "  He  it  en- 
acted by  the  General  Council  of  the  Choctaw 
Nation." 

By  the  Constitution,  the  Government  is  com- 
posed  of  four  (le|iartments,  viz  :  Iiejrislative,  E.\. 
eeutive,  J\idicial,   and  Military.      'I'hree  judges  \\ 
ore  elected  hi  each  district  by  jxipular  vote,  who  [ 
hold  inferior  and  sujierinr  courts  within  their  res-  i! 
pcctive  districts.     'J'en  liffbt-borsc  men   in  each  ■ 
district  perform  tlie  duties  of  shiritls.     .\n  act  has  ■• 
been  passed  for  the  orpfauization  of  the  militia,  i 
Within  each  judicial  district  an  otticer  is  elected 
denominate  i  a  chief,  who  holds  bis  ollice  for  the 
term  of  four  years.     These  cbiefs  have  honorary  1 
seats  in  the  National  Council.     Their  sijjniit'ires  | 
are  necessary  to  the   passage  of  a  law.      If  lliey  ' 
veto  an  act,  it  may  become  a  law  by  the  concur- 
rence of  two-thirds  of  the  Council.     Thus  have 
the   influences  of  our   iiislitulions  began  to  tame 
and  change  the  savages  of  the  western  wilder- 
ness. 

At  tlie  time  when  the  lights  of  religion  and  sci. 
cncu  had  scarcely   begun  to  dawn   u|Hm  them —  , 
when  tliev  had   scarcely  discoviTcd   llie  clouds  of! 
ignorance  that  had  walled  (very  avenue  to  ration- 
al life — even  while  the  diisl  ot  ;iiiti(iuuted   liarbar- 
ism    was  still  banging  uikiii  tlui}'  giinjients — and 
the  niglil  of  ages  of  slotli  and  sin  hi  Id  thein  in  its 
cold   embraces — the    fires   on  the   towers  of  this 
great  temple  of   eivil  freedom  arrested  their  slum- 
liering    faculties — mid   they   read   on   all  the  holy  ; 
baltliinenls,    written    with   beams  ol   living  light, 
"  All  men  are,  and  of  right  ought   to  be,  free  and  ' 
equal."     This    teaching   leads   tliem.      It   was  a  i 
pillar  of  fire  moving  over  the  sili  nt   grave  of  the  | 
past — <'iilightening   the  vista  of  coming  years — 
and,  by  its   winning   brightness,   inviting  them  to 
rear  in   the  (Jreal-I'rairii'   wilderness,  a  saiicluaiy  ' 
of  republican  lilierly — oleipial  laws— in  which  to 
de|K)site  the  ark  of  their  own  future  well  being. 

The  (,'hiekasaws  have  become  -iierged  in  the 
Choctaws.  ^VIlen  they  sold  to  the  Governmenl 
their  lands  cast  of  the  .Vlississippi,  tliey  agreed  to 
furnish  themselves  with  a  hoini'.  This  they  have 
done  in  the  wcslem  part  ol  the  Choctaw  country, 
for  the  sum  of  fr)3(),()00.  It  is  called  the  Chick- 
asaw district ;  and  constitutes  an  integral  part  of 
the  Choctaw  body  iwlitic  in  every  respect,  e.\cept 
that  the  Cliickasaws,  like  the  Choctaws,  receive 
and  invest  for  their  own  sole  use,  the  annuities 
and  other  moneys  ])rocee(lirig  from  the  sale  of 
their  lands  east  of  tlii^  Misjissippi, 

The  treaty  of  1831)  provides  for  keeping  40 
Choctaw  youths  aX  school,  under  the  direction  of 


plied  to  the  sup|K)rt  of  three  teachers  of  schools 
among  them  for  the  same  length  of  time.  There 
is,  also,  an  ime.xpci  ded  '  ■•.lance  of  former  annui- 
ties, amounting  to  aUmt  )<j!25,IM)0,  which  is  to  be 
applied  to  tlu!  sup|iort  of  schools,  at  twelve  difl'er. 
cut  )ilaces.  Sclifsjl-houses  have  bei'll  erected  for 
this  purjxise,  and  iiaid  for,  out  of  this  fund.  Also, 
by  the  treaty  of  1825,  they  are  entitled  to  an  an- 
imity  of  ,$(i,(l(ll),  for  the  sujijiort  of  schools  within 
the  Choctaw  District. 

The  treaty  of  the  'Jlth  of  May,  1834,  provides 
that  !»!3,l)()l(  annually,  for  fifteen  yeara,  shall  be 
applied,   under   the   <lirection  of  the  Secretary  of 
i  \Var,  to  the  education  of  the  Cliickasaws.  These 
i  pco]ile  have  become   very  wealthy,  by  the  cession 
'  of  their  lands  east  of  the  Mississippi  ii,  the  I'nited 
I  States.     They  htive  a  large  fund  applicable  to  va- 
il rions  objects  of  civilization  ;  .*(l(l,llll()of  whii'h  is, 
i  for  the  presi'iil,  applied  to  puqiosesof  education. 
j      The   country    assigned   to   the  Cherokces     is 
n  boundeil  as  HilJows  :  beginning  on  the  north  bank 
[!  of  -Arkansas    Uiver,    where    tlii^  Western  line,    of 
•  the  State  of  Arkansas  crosses  the  Uiver  :  thence 
'  North  7^  3,-,'  West,  along  the  line  of  the  State  of 
,  Arkansas,  77  ,|,il,.s  to  the  South    West  comer  of 
the  State   ol   Miss<iuri  ;  llienee    North    along  the 
line  of  Alissonri,    eight   miles  to   Seiu'ca  River  ; 
1  thence  ^"esl  along  the  Southern   boundary  of  the 
1  Senecas  to  Neosho   Uiver;  thence    up  said  River 
'  to  the  ()s;ige  I, mils  ;  thence  West  with  the  South 
boundiiryoT  the  Osage  lands,  ■Jpf  J  miles;   thence 
South  to  the    Crick    lands,    and    East    along  the 
North    line  ol   the   Creeks,    to  a    point    about    1.1 
miles    West   of  the    State    ol   Arkansas,   ani'    iJ 
niilcs   North   of  -Vrkans.is    Uiver;   tlieiii'e    Soiilli 
,  tci  Venlii;ris  River,  tlienee  down    Verdigris  to  Ar- 
kimsus  Uiver  ;  llience    down    Arkansas   River  tn 
!  the  miiiilb  of  Neoslio    Uiver;  tlienee    South  .'13^ 
1  Wet  one  mile;  tin  nee    South  In^  19'    Wot    33 
miles  ;  theiiee    South   1    miles,    to  the  junction  of 
the  North   Eork    and    Canadian    Rivers;  thence 
down  the    bitter    to    the    Arkansas ;  and    thence 
down  the  Aik.-insas,  to  the  place  of  bei;iiming. 

They  also  ou  11  a  tract,  described,  by  beginning 
at  the  Soiilh  K:ist  corner  of  the  Osage  lands,  and 
rimiiing  iN'orlh  with  the  Osage  line,  ;'>l)m'"s; 
thence  Ivisl  L'.'i  miles  to  the  West  line  of  .Missiiu. 
ri ;  ihenee  West  '2'>  miles,  to  the  place  of  begin- 
ning. 

They  own  ninnerous  Salt  Springs,  three  ol 
which  are  worked  by  Cherokces.  The  amount  of 
Salt  in. inr.lai  lured  is  pmbably  alKiut  1110  bushels 
pir  (lay.  They  also  own  two  Lead  .Muies, — 
Their  Salt  Works  and  Lead  .Mines  are  in  the 
Eastern  portion  of  their  country.  All  the  set- 
tleinents  yet  formed  are  there  also.  It  embra- 
ces about  2,.'iO(l,()IIU  acres.  Tlicy  own  about 
ai),OIIII  head  of  cattle,  3,11(1(1  hors<s,  ir),f|()()  hogs, 
G(l(l  shirep,  110  wagons,  often  several  ploughs  to 
one  farm,  several  himdrcd  spinning  wheels,  and 
i  100  looms.  Their  lielils  are  enclosed  with  rail 
fences.  They  have  erected  for  theinsi  Ives  good 
I  log  dwellin'is,  with  stone  chimneys  and  plank 
,  lloors.  Their  houses  are  furnished  with  plain  ta. 
hies,  chairs,  and  licdstcads,  and  with  table  and 
kitchen  furniture,  nearly  or  quite  equal  to  the 
dwellings  of  white  people  in  new  countries. — 
They  have  aeven  native  merchants,  and  one  rcgu- 


4 


in  the  Rochj  Mountains,  the-  Oregon  Territory,  Sfc. 


27 


l"nP  till'  t.riil  <,f 
00  JH  to  lif  n|<. 
ITN  of  Kcliools 

time.  'I'),,.,-,, 
rornicr  aiiniii. 
"•hicli  JH  to  !)(' 

twelve  (lirtiT. 
<ii  ereeled  li.r 
s  fund.  Also, 
led  to  an  an- 
icIiooIn  williiii 

^'•''■1,  l)rovideM 
•(  aix,  shall  l)o 

Seeretary  of 
isaws.  'J'licRe 
>y  tlie  r(  ssion 
1''  llie  I'liited 
ilioal)le  to  va- 
Oof  which  is, 
r  eduialion. 
'hcrokeiH  is 
e  north  hank 
'Stem  lini;  of 
iver  :   Ihenee 

the  State  of 
I'st  comer  of 

ll     alollir  Ih,; 

ncca  IJiver  ; 
ndary  ol  the 
|i  said  l{iver 
111  the  South 
iles  ;  Iheiioe 
St  alonjr  ilip 
It  ahout  1.1 
sas,  nnii  i^ 
euee  South 
ili^rris  to  Ar. 
las   Uivir  to 

South  Ti.T^ 
)■   \Ve>t  :).•) 

junction  ol 
ers  ;  thence 
and  thtnec 
'uinninir. 
y  hefjiiininif 
■  l.mds,  and 
,  .")()  iii''s; 
of  .Miswiu- 
e  of  bc-riu- 

s,  three  of 
amount  of 
0(1  luLshels 

.Mines  — 
are  in  the 
II  the  Hit. 
It  cnihra. 
mil  ahout 
i/lOO  ho^rs, 
ploughs  to 
heels,  and 

with  rail 
Ives  (rood 
nd  plank 
1  plain  ta. 
table  and 
liil  to  the 
iintrips. — 
one  regu- 


lar physician,  beside  R'veral  "  (piueks."  Houses 
of  entertaiunieiil,  with  neat  and  coniforlalile  ac- 
copuiiiodutions,  an>  I'ouud  anion:;  llieni. 

'J'lieir  wtllenienls  are  divideil  into  lour  districts  ; 
eaeli  of  which  elects  lor  th(^  term  of  two  years, 
two  menihers  of  the  Nalioiial  Couucil — thi^  title 
of  which  is,  "  The  (iencral  ('oiiiicil  of  the  Cher- 
okee Nation."  liy  law,  il  meets  ainiually  on  the 
lirst  .Monday  in  ( Jclolxr.  They  have  llirei' chiefs, 
which  till  lately,  have  he<  n  chosen  liy  llie  (ieiKTal 
t'ouncil.  Ilcrcarier,  Iheyare  to  be  eledi'd  by  the 
pco|ile.  The  upprov.il  oi  IlieChiels  is  necessary 
to  the  |)ass,i^:e  ol   a  l.iw  ;  hut  an    act  ujiou    which 

tlicy     have     li.xcd     their     veto,     may     hcco a 

law  by  a  vote  of  two  thirds  of  the  Council. — 
TIk'  Council  eoiisisls  of  two  hiaiicla'S.  The 
'ower,  is  deiioininalcd  the  ('iniiiiiillvr,  and  the 
iipjicr,  the  ('i)iiiiri!.  The  ccjiieurrence  of  lH)th 
is  necessary  to  tin'  )  :issaj;e  ol  a  law.  'I'lie  Cliiels 
iiiav  call  a  Counc'i  at  pleasure.  In  this,  and  in 
several  other  r.  .-.pects,  they  retain  in  some  dcjirec 
the  aulliorily  coniinon  to  hercditarv  Chiefs.  'I'wo 
.lud^fes  heloii:;  to  each  dislrici,  who  hold  courts 
when  tie<'essary.  'I'wo  ollicers,  dcuomiii  ited 
l/i!;lit-liorscrncu,  ill  each  district  pcrlorui  the  du- 
ties of  .Sheritl's.  A  company  of  sl.v  orscven  l.i^jhl. 
h'.rseinen,  the  leader  of  whom  is  styled  Captain, 
constitute  a  Nalional  Corps  of  He^rnlatois,  to  pre- 
vent inlraetions  ol  the  l.iw,  and  to  brin;jr  oll'cnders 
to  jiisliee. 

it  is  stipulated  in  (lie  Irealy  ol  the  (ith  ol'  Alav, 
ly-iH,  that  Ihc  1  nilcd  Stales"  wil  pay  .>ii-J,li:iil  ail- 
nil, illy  to  the  Cherokees  for  1(1  years,  lo  be  expend- 
ed under  the  direction  of  tia.'  I'lesidcnl  of  the 
United  Slates,  in  the  eilucatiou  ol  their  eliildrcn, 
ill  l/ieir  iiir/i  roiiiilri/.  ill  lellcrsaiul  mechanic  arts. 
-\l3o  3l,0i)!l  toward  the  purchase  of  a  priutiii!;- 
press  and  tyjics.  JJy  the  Irealy  of  Deecinher  :J1), 
Ib3,'),  the  sum  of  .•Sil.'tO,(l:)t(  is  proviileil  for  the 
support  of  enmnion  schools,  and  such  a  literary 
institution  of  a  hi;rher  order  as  may  be  established 
in  the  Indian  country.  The  aUive  sum  is  to  be 
added  to  an  education  luud  of  .'i>(.')(l,()OII  that  pre- 
viously existed,  makinif  the  sum  of  .'ij|-JlMI,(M)(), 
wliich  is  to  remain  a  perniauent  school  lund,onlv 
the  interest  of  which  is  to  be  consumed.  Tin' 
application  of  this  money  is  to  he  directed  by  the 
CMierokec  Nation  under  the  supervision  of  the 
Tresideiit  of  the  I'nited  St  itcs.  The  interest  ol 
it  will  be  Hullicienl  constantly  to  keep  in  a  Ixiard- 
innr  si^hool  two  hundred  children  ;  or  ci(;lit  liiui- 
drcd,  if  b(jarded  by  their  parenls. 

The  country  of  the  ( 'reeks  joins  C.Tjiadian  Riv- 
er and  the  lands  of  the  Choctaws  on  liie  South, 
and  the  Cherokei-  lands  i>ii  the  l-iasl  and  North. 
Their  Kastern  limit  is  about  (ii  miles  from  North 
to  South.  Their  Western  limit  the  Mexican 
boundary. 

Their  country  is  fertile,  and  e.xiiiliils  a  healthy 
ap|K'arance;  but  of  tlu'  latter  Creek  Kmiifiaiits 
wlio  reached  .Arkansas  in  the  Winter  and  .Sprini; 
of  18,'t7,  alKiut  :il)l)  died  on  the  ro.id  ;  and  before 
tlic  tirsl  of  October  succeidiieT  the  arrival,  about 
3,r)UI)  more  fell  victims  lo  bilious  fev(^rs.  In  the 
B;iinc  year,  3,)0  of  the  earlier  emigrants  died. — 
Tliey  own  Sail  Spriiiirs,  cultivate  com,  vegetables. 
&.C.,  spin,  weave  and  sew,  and  follow  other  pur- 
Huits  of  eivili/.ed  people.  .Many  of  them  h  ivc 
iarfre  sb)cka  of  cattle,  llefore  the  crops  of  lc>37 
hud  l)ccii   gatliured,   tlioy   hud   Bold   cum    to  the 


amount  of  upwards  of  .3311, (1(10  ;  and  vast  quaii 
iticssliU  remained  unsold.  Even  the  l'hui;;rantH 
who  arrived  in  their  eounlry  duruii;  the  w'iuter 
and  s|)riii;^,  jircviou.s  to  the  croppin;;  season  of 
l^-'tT,  broke  the  turf,  bnced  their  fields,  raised 
their  crops  for  the  first  time  on  the  soil,  and  sold 
their  sm|ilus  of  corn  for  §1(1,(100.  'I'liey  have 
two  native  m'^rchints. 

The  civil  nfiverumcnt  ol  this  tribe  's  less  per- 
fect than  that  ol  the  Chciokccs.  There  are  two 
bands;  the  one  nn.Ier  .Mi'lnlcr.h,  theotb-r  under 
I. idle  IJoclor.  Tliat  leil  by  ihe  former,  brought 
willi  them  lioni  llieir  old  home  wrillen  laws  which 
Ihiy  I  iilbrcc-  as  the  laws  ol  llieir  band.  Tlial 
uiidir  till.'  filler  made  writlen  laws  alter  their  ar 
rival.  Each  parly  holds  a  (oncr.il  Conncil.  The 
memliers  of  each  are  berchtary  chiels,  and  a 
class  of  men  called  < 'ouiieilo.s.  Ivicli  of  tlieuc 
jjrcat  b.inds  are  divided  iiilo  lesser  ones  ;  which 
severally  may  hold  courts,  try  civil  and  criniinal 
causes,  sentence,  and  execute,  iVc.  Laws,  how- 
ever, are  made  by  the  (oiicr.il  Councils  only. — 
and  il  is  beconiin:r  eustom.uy  to  entertain  trials 
oi  eases  beli)re  these  hollies,  and  to  detail  soiiieol 
their  niembeis  lor  executioners.  The  I.e;i;islalive, 
Judicial,  and  K.xecutive  departineiits  of  their 
(iovernniclil  are  thus  liecnmin;;  .ilranjfcly  umtid 
in  one. 

The  treaty  of  the  (itli  .March,  IS!)'],  stiimlates 
that  :iii  .•innuily  of  .'«!3,0'l!l  shall  be  expended  by 
ihe  I'liited  J^lates,  under  the  direction  of  the 
I'rcsidi  III,  lor  the  term  of  twenty  yeais,  in  the 
iducaliou  of  their  children.  Another  .'ji  1,000  by 
the  treaty  ol  the  1  Ith  ol  February,  i^33,  is  to 
be  annually  expended  dnriii;.;  the  pleasure  ol'  Con- 
irress,  li)r  the  same  object,  under  the  direction  of 
the  I'residcnt. 

Ill  location  and  irovernniciil,  the  .Seininolcs  are 
incr'^ed  in  tlie  Creeks,  in  the  sprin;r  of  183li, 
aUjut  100  of  them  emi;rratcil  from  the  I'lasI,  and 
settled  on  Ihe  North  lork  of  Canadian  Kiver.  In 
October,  1^37,  they  were  reduced  by  sickness 
nearly  one. hall.  Uuriii^r  these  awful  times  of 
mort.ihly  aiiionir  them,  some  of  the  de.id  were 
de|)osited  ill  the  hollows  of  the  slaiidin:;  and  fallen 
trees,  and  others,  lor  want  of  these,  were  placed  in 
a  temporary  eiic|r)snrc  of  iMj.irds,  on  the  ojien  plains, 
(inns  and  other  articles  of  property  were  often 
buried  with  Ihe  ile.id,  accordui;;  to  ancient  cus- 
tom. .And  so  fircal  is  said  (o  have  luvii  the  ter- 
ror of  the  time,  th  ll,  h  iviu^r  abandoned  them- 
selves  awhile  lo  their  wjdiii;;s  around  the  burial 
places  of  their  friends,  lliey  tied  to  the  Western 
deserts,  I  ill  the  |>cstileiicc  subsided.  Oi  the  lJ,(W3 
emiirralils  who  li.id  reached  llieir  new  homes  prior 
to  Octolier  lo3',',  not  nioie  thin  1,(100  remained 
alive. 

The  Senecas  consist  of  tliree  bands,  to  wil: 
Senecas  -111),  Senecas  and  .'■^liawaiioes  i!l  1,  .Mu- 
li.iwks  50  ;  in  all  Kil.  'i'lic  finds  ol  tiie  Senecas 
proper  adjoin  those  of  i he  Cherokees  on  the  South, 
ami,  abultiiij^  on  the  .Missouri  iKirder,  the  distance 
of  13  miles,  extend  Norlii  to  Neosho  Kivcr.  The 
lands  of  the  mixed  baud  of  .Senecas  and  Sliawa- 
iioes,  e.xlend  .North  between  the  .State  of  .Missouri 
ar.l  Nroslio  Uiver,  so  far  as  to  in  hide  G0,000 
acres. 

These  people,  also,  are  in  some  me.isure  civil- 
ized. .'\lo.st  of  them  sjie.dt  Ihiirlish.  They  have 
tields  enclosed  with  rail  fences,  ami  raise  com  and 


23 


Teari'h  in  the  Great  Wcsit  m  Prdirie.i, 


vcffctahlis  siifTicinit  fcirtlu'ii'  own  use.  'I'lii'v  own  I 
about  800  horses,  l-JllO  rnlllc,  13  vnkc  of'oxcn, 
iJOO  liogs,  C>  Wiii£oMs,  iind  liT  ploiiijlis — cKvoll  in 
lic:it,  hewed  loaf  o;i!iins  erected  liy  llieniselves,  .■iiid 
furnislird  with  hcdsleiids,  ehiilrs,  t;dp|es,  \e.,  of 
their  own  inuMnrieliire  ;  and  own  inw  urist  nnil 
B.'iw-nnll,  ere<'ted  id  the  ex|)ens('  cjI'  the  I'niti  d 
Slates.  ^ 

'I'lie  eonidry  of  Ihi'  Osifres  hen  Xorth  (d'  tlie 
Western  [Hirtion  oftlie  (  'herokee  l:in<l-;,  eolninene- 
iii^  'J.'i  nnles  West  o|'  the  St  de  ol'  Missonri,  nod 
thence,  in  a  wiilth  ol  ."lO  rndisi  vtends  westward  :is 
lar  as  the  country  '•■>»  hi'  iidialiteil.  In  1S|7, 
they  nnmhered  lO.'illO.  W'ari  willi  the  Siouv, 
ami  other  I'ausis,  have  Irl't  only  r>,r)00.  Alionl  hall' 
the  tribe  riside  on  the  cistern  portion  of  their 
lands  ;  the  residue  in  the  ( 'herokee  eoimlry,  in  two 
villaires  r)n  Verdii;ris  iJiver. 

This  tribe?  Ii  is  made  scarcely  any  iiii|)roveinent. 
Their  lields  are  siiiall  and  h  idiv  t'enced.  Their 
hillH  arc  constructed  ol  |i(des  inserted  in  llic  L'roiiml, 
bent  toijethcr  at  the  top,  and  coverid  with  bark, 
mats,  iVc,  and  some  of  them  with  biilliilo  and 
ilk  skins.  The  tire  is  placed  in  the  ceiiire,  ami 
the  smoke  escapes  throiinb  an  a|>ertme  at  tlie  top. 
These  huts  are  liiiilt  in  villajfcs,  ami  crowded  to. 
(Tcther  without  oriler  or  arrauuement,  and  destitute 
nl'  liiruitiire  ol'  any  kind,  evcept  a  plairorm  raised 
about  two  I'eet  upon  stakes  set  in  the  ijrouml. 
This  e.xtemis  aUm^r  the  side  ol'  till'  but,  and  may 
serve  lor  a  scat,  a  table,  or  a  Itcdstcad.  The  j 
leirjjiu'^s,  and  moccasins  lor  the  feet,  are  si'ldom 
worn,  except  in  cold  weather,  or  when  they  are 
travelinir  in  the  (;rass.  TIksc,  with  a  leinporary 
(Tarmcnl  rastened  alioiil  the  loins,  and  exicndini; 
downward,  and  a  bnH'ilo  robe  or  blanket  thrown 
loosely  around  them,  constitiile  the  sole  waril- 
robe  of  the  males  anil  married  females.  The  un- 
in;\rricd  females  wi'ar  also  a  strip  of  pkiiii  cloth 
fiilbt  or  nine  inches  wide,  which  they  throw  over 
(mc  sboidder,  draw  it  over  the  breasts,  and  fasten 
under  the  op]Kisite  arm. 

The  Osaire,  were,  when  the  whites  first    knew 
tlicm,  brave,   warlike,  and  in  the   Indian  sense  of 
the  term,  in  ufllucnt  circumstances.      They  wi-re 
the   hardiest  and  fiercest  enemies  of  the  terrible 
•Sionx.       Hut    their   independent    spirit    is   jrone; 
and    they  have  dcjrencrated    into    the    miserable 
rondition    of    insolent,    starving    thieves.       The 
(iovcrnnicnl  has  been,  ami  is   makiii'i   the    most 
treneroils  ertiirts  to  elevate  them.     The  treaty  of 
\H2'>   provides,  "that  the  President  of  the  I'nited! 
States  shall  employ  such  iicrsons  loaid  the  Osaijes 
in  their  ajrricultural  pursuits,  as  to  him  may  seem  i 
expedient."      I'ndcr   this   stipulation,  !ij!l,'JOO  an-  : 
niiallv   have    been   expended,  lor  the   last   fifteen 
years.     This  Ixinnlvof  the  (iovernmeni,  however, 
has  not    been   of  any    permanent   benefit    to   the 
tribe.     The  same  treaty  of   IS-J."),  leipiired    lifty- 
lour  sections  of  land  to  be  laid  idV  and  solrl  under  ', 
the    direction    <d'    the    l'rcsi<lcnl    of    the    United 
States,   ami  the  proceeds  to  be  applied  to  the  edii-  ; 
cation    of  Osajre    children.       Karly    in    tln'  year 
1838,   Government    made    an    arranttement    by  ; 
whicll   they  were  to  he  paid  .$".?  per  acre,  for  the 
whole  tract   of  fifly-linir  sections,  .'( ti.StiO  acres.  ■ 
This    eouunulaliou   has    secured    to    the  Osajre  ^ 
trib*',  the  sum  of  ljjiti!t,li!!l  for  oducation  ;  a  princely 
fund  for  S.rilO  individuals.    Govtrninent  hcred. 
jtary  chivft«incicB.J 


The  band  of  t^uapaws,  was  orijrlnallv  con- 
nected with  the  OsiircR.  Their  lands  lie  inmic- 
diately  north  of  the  Senecas  and  Shawaiioes,  and 
extend  north  between  the  State  of  INlissouri  on 
the  east,  and  .N'cosho  IJivcr  on  the  west,  so  far  as 
to  include  ill),l)tll)  acres.  Their  country  is  south- 
east of,  and  near  to  the  I'oiinlrv  of  the  Osaj^es. 
Their  habits  are  somewhat  more  improved,  and 
their  cireumstancis  more  comlortahle,  than  those 
of  the  List  iiiiU'd  trihi'.  Tbev  subsist  bv  industry 
at  home,  cnllivate  lields  enclosed  with  rail  tences, 
and  about  three. toiirtlis  ol  them  hive  erected  lor 
llieniselves  small  lo^r  dwelbnirs  with  chinmevs. 
I 'nfortiin  itely  liir  the  l^uipaws,  Ihcv  settled  on 
the  lands  of  the  Senecas  and  Shawaiioes,  Irom 
wliicli  tbev  must  soon  riaiiove  to  their  own.  .\ 
small  hand  of  llicin,  I'orly  or  llftv  in  nmiiher,  have 
settled  in  Texas  ;  and  about  thirty  others  live 
amon^'  the  ( 'boclaws. 

The  I'ottawalaniies.  in  cmiifriiliinj  to  the  West, 
have  imfortmiatelv  be^'ii  divideil  into  two  liaiids. 
One  tlioiisanil  or  litteeii  lumdreil  have  located 
themselves  on  the  ■Northeast  side  ol  the  Missouri 
Uiver,  villi  miles  fioiii  the  comitr\  d.siirnated  by 
(lovermnent  as  their  permanent  nsidence.  Ne. 
LOitiatioiis  have  been  had  to  ell'eet  their  removal 
to  their  own  lauds,  hut  wiibout  success.  AlHiiit 
tilteen  himdied  olbeis  have  sillied  near  the  .Saiiks, 
on  the  Mississippi,  and  manilest  a  desire  to  re- 
main there.  'I'be  eomilry  desiv.nated  tor  them 
lii's  on  the  sources  of  the  ()sa;;e  and  Neosho  riv- 
ers. It  commences  sixteen  miles  and  lour  chains 
West  of  the  State  of  Missouri — and  in  a  width 
of  twenty-tour  miles  extiinls  West  two  hundred 
miles.  Ity  the  treaty  of  \!^'X),  they  arc  allowed 
the  sum  of  ,'jliTO,tltlO  for  purposes  of  <'ducalion 
and  the  encourairemeut  of  the  useful  arts.  Also 
hv  the  same  treaty,  is  secured  to  them  the  sum  of 
.■iji I, 'ill, 01)11,  to  be  'applied  to  tli(^  erci'tion  of  mills, 
farm-houses,  Indian  houses,  and  blacksmiths' 
shops  ;  to  the  pnrcba.se  of  a;rriciiltural  implements, 
and  live  stock,  and  for  the  support  of  physicians, 
millers,  farmers,  and  blaeksinillis,  which  the  Pre- 
sident of  the  rnilcd  Stales  shall  think  proper  to 
ap|K)int  to  their  service. 

The  Weas  and  Piankasli-.is  arc  bands  of  Miamis. 
Their  country  lies  north  of  the  Pottawatamies,  ad- 
joins the  State  of  Missouri  on  the  east,  the  Shawa- 
iioes on  the  north,  and  the  Peorias  and  Kaskaskias 
on  the  West — lti(),OIIO  acres.  These  peo|ile  own  a 
li'W  cattle  and  swine.  .Miout  one-lialf  of  their 
dwelliiiirs  are  conslriK^ted  of  loirs ;  the  remainder 
of  bark,  in  the  old  native  style.  Their  fields  arc 
enclosed  with  rails;  and  they  cultivate  corn  and 
veiret allies  suHicieiit  for  a  comfortable  subsistence. 
The  Piankasha  band  is  less  improved  than  the 
Weas.  The  former  liiive  a  field  of  about  ')0  acres, 
made  by  the  (ioverment.  The  latter  have  made 
their  own  improvements. 

The  Peorias  and  Kaskaskias  arc  also  bands  of 
the  Miamis.  'I'licir  land  lies  imiuediately  west  of 
the  Weas;  adjoins  the  Shawaiioes  on  the  north, 
and  the  Ottowas  on  the  west.  They  own  (Itl.OOO 
acres.  They  are  iinprovini;,  live  in  loir-bouses, 
have  small  fields  (renerally  enclosed  with  rail- 
f<!nc,es,  and  own  consider  ibli:  uuiiibcrs  ol  cattle 
and  Bwine. 

The  hinds  of  the  dttowas  lie  immediately  west 
of  the  Peorias  and  Kaskaskias,  and  south  of  the 
tshawaiwe*.  The  tiiut  band  of  emigrants  received 


^ 


3f.l 
inl 

cH 

fr 

hal 

in 
lb  I 
sc'l 
off 

(-'■' 
111' 

npl 
di; 


in  the  liock}!  Mountains,  the  Oref^on  Territory,  ffV.. 


29 


liirilllllly    con. 

"ids  lie  iiDiiif- 
liaw.iiiDcs,  ;ifi(l 
f  AliHsoiiri  on 
"■I'st,  so  far  tiH 
iMtry  is  Koiilli- 
r  (Ik'  OwiircH. 
•'ii|'i""Vr(l,  and 
'li'.  tliun  tliosc 
''  l>y  inilnslry 
III  l':iii  I'rnrcs, 
1 11  iiiil  liir 

nil   •■liiiinii'vs. 

ii'.v  Hiltlcd  on 

nv.iriiic's,  Ironi 
ii'  own.  A 
iiiiiiilii  T,  liavi" 

V    olliiT.H    live 

to  llic  West, 
I'l  •"■o  l)iin(lH. 
Iiavi-  lo(M|,.(l 
I  III'  MiHwmri 

l;sisfii:iicd  l)v 
i'lrni'c.      i\,'.. 

flirir  ivinoval 
■'s«.  .Alwiiit 
ii'lli<'S:iuks, 

ilKMO     lo     IC- 

''■'I   for  tlicni 
N<ok|io  liv- 
I  liiiir  rhiiins 
ill  11  width 
Iwo  liiindi'cil 
uir  uliowrd 
111  riluciilion 
'  11  lis.     .'VIbo 
I  till'  Sinn  (i( 
i"ii  of  mills, 
liliicksniillis' 
iiiiplrincnlK, 
I'liVsioimiH, 
ii'li  lilt.'  Vrv. 
ik  (iropcr  lo 

!"('  Miann'H. 
itiiinicM,  iid- 
llii'Sliawa. 
KaskiiskiuH 
'o|)li'  own  11 
ilr  of  tlirir 

iciuaindcr 
"  tiild.s  ari' 
«'  I'orn  and 
iilisiKtcnor. 

Iji.in  the 
t  CM  iirrrs, 
avc  niadi! 

liandH  of 
ly  svvHt  of 
111'  norlli, 
1-11  itIi.OOO 
nr-lion»cs, 
villi  rail, 
of  cattle 

tely  wpst 
li  of  the 

recuvtsd 


'I 


3fi,n00  acroB,  and  one  which  arrived  snliscfiurntl-  , 
■lO.OnO  aorre,  adjoininR  the  first.  Thry  all  live  in 
(Tood  lop.cabin.'i,  Invn  ficldH  onrlnscd  with  mil- 
fcnrrs,  raise  a  conifortablr  supply  of  rorn  and 
(Tirdi'ti  vri;rtal)lrs,  ari'  lu'iiinninil  lo  raiw  whral, 
liiiv"'  horses,  catllc  and  swine,  a  small  jfrist-niill 
ill  operalion,  and  many  olliei  convenii'iiees  of  life 
Ih  il  iiidieale  an  i'lereasiii'^  desire  anion;;  llieiii  lo 
s<ek  from  Ihe  soil,  rather  than  llie  chase,  the  means 
of  life.  Alioiil  r.,OI)ll  Oltowas,  residing;  in  Mielii- 
fran,  are  s<miii  to  he  removed  lo  their  hrethien  in 
th''  'I'errilory.  'I'lie  eoiiiilry  of  IlieOllowas  lies 
upon  Hie  wi'Hlern  veru'e  of  Ihe  eoiilemplaled  In- 
dian srllleinenl,  and  eonscipieiilly  opens  an 
niilimiled  rani;r  !o  Ihe  westward.  Their  (Jov- 
rrnnient  is  hased  on  Ihe  old  Hyslem  id'  Jiidian 
Cliieflaineies. 

Iininediately  on  Ihe  north  of  llic  Weas  and 
Piankashas,  the  1'oorias  and  Kask.iskias  and 
Oltowas,  lies  Ihe  eoimlry  of  Ihe  Shawiieis,  or 
Shawalioes.  It  e.xtends  aloni;  Ihe  line  of  Ihe 
Stale  of  Missouri  north  '^f*  miles  lo  the  Missouri 
Kiver  at  its  jniietion  with  the  Konzas,  llienee  lo 
11  |Kiiiil  111)  miles  on  a  direel  conrse  to  the  lands  of 
Ihe  Kanzans,  Ihenee  south  on  Ihe  Kanzans  line  li 
niileH  ;  and  from  these  lines,  with  a  hreadlh  of 
about  t'J  miles  lo  a  north  anil  south  line,  I'ill 
niilcK  west  of  llie  Slate  of  .Missouri,  eoiitainin;; 
1,1)011,111)11  aeres.  Their  prineipal  settlements  are 
on  the  iiorlh-easlem  corner  of  their  eoiinlry,  he- 
Iween  the  Missouri  lM)rder  and  Ihe  Kon/.as  IJiver. 
iMostof  them  live  in  neat-hewed  lo^.ealiins.i'reeled 
hy  themselves, and  partially  supplied  with  liiniiliire 
oflheirown  inaiinlactiirc.  Their  fields  are  inclosed 
with  rail-l'cnces,  and  snlUeienlly  larjie  to  yield  plen- 
litnlsnpplicsid'corn  and  culinary  ve[rilal)|eH.  'I'hi'y 
keep  cattle  and  swine,  work  oxen, and  use  horses  for 
draught,  and  own  s<inie  plonudis,  waj;ons  and  carts. 
They  lia.'o  a  saw  and  ^risl-niill,  erected  hv  <  Govern- 
ment at  an  expense  ol'  aUint  .'ii(.'^,IMHI.  'I'his,  like 
maiiv  other  cmiirranl  tribes,  is  much  S'-allired. 
Hesid<s  the  two  bands  on  the  Neosho,  already  nicii- 
tioncd,  there  is  one  on  Trinity  IJiver,  in  Ti  \as,  and 
others  in  divers  places. 

I  'nder  the  snperiiiteiidi'iicc  of  Missionarii's  of  va- 
rious dcnomiiiatioiis,  these  people  are  m.ikin<.r  con- 
nidcrable  progress  in  lOduealion  and  Ihe  .Mechanic 
Arts.  Tliey  have  a  rrinling-l'iess  anioii';  them, 
from  which  is  issued  a  niontlily  periodical,  enti- 
tled the  "  Shanwawnone  Kesanlliwan  "— Sliawa. 
noi'  Sun. 

'I'lie  lands  of  tlic  Dclawares  lie  north  of  the 
ShawanocH,  in  the  forks  of  the  Kon/.is  and  .Mis. 
souri  Hiveis;  cxIcndiM;;  up  the  liirmer  lo  the 
Kan/.  Ills  lands,  Ihenee  north  ".'  1  miles,  lo  ihc  iiorlh- 
c  ist  corner  of  the  Kau/ans  survey,  up  tin'  Missouri 
'JH  miles  in  .1  direct  course  to  t  'antounient  Leaven- 
worth, thence  with  a  line  westward  lo  a  point  ID 
miles  iiorlh  of  the  north-east  corner  ol  the  Kaiizaiis 
survey,  and  then  in  a  slip  not  more  than  II)  miles 
wide,  it  extends  wislwardly  aloiiir  the  northern 
Ixiimdary  of  the  Kuuzaiis,  liiO  miles  from  the  Stale 
of  Missouri. 

Thevlive  in  the  eastern  portion  of  their  eoiinlrv, 
near  the  junction  of  the  Konzas  and  .Missouri 
Rivers ;  htivc  good  hewn  log-honses,  and  sonic 
furniture  in  them  ;  inclose  their  lields  with  rail- 
fences  ;  keep  cattle  and  hogs ;  apply  horses  lo 
draught;  nse  oxen  andploiiglm;  oiillivalo  corn 
luid  garden  ve({etableM  «uHicieiit  for  use  ;    jiave 


eommenced  Ihe  ciiltiirp  of  wheat ;  and  own  a 
j  grist  and  saw-mill,  ercrtrd  hy  the  I'nitrd  Stntro. 
Some  of  these  people  remain  in  the  Ijakr  ronnlry; 
a  few  are  in  Texas;  about  !  1)1)  reside  on  the  f 'hoc. 
law  lands  ne.ir  .\rkansas  Uiver,  1'2()  miles  west  of 
Ihe  ."^tatc  of  .\rkansas.  These  Intter  have  aeipiired 
Ihc  languages  of  the  ('uniaiieli(s,  Keawa.s,  I'aw- 
.  CCS,  &■•;  and  are  extensively  employed  as  inler- 
piclers  bv  traders  from  the  Indian  Territorv.  The 
Treaty  of  Septenihcr,  \»i>[),  provides  ;hat'Hti  tier, 
tionsofthe  liinl  I  111(1  within  the  district  at  that  time 
ci'di'd  to  till  riiiled  States,  In'  selected  anil  sold, and 
Ihe  proceeds  apjiiii  d  lo  the  snpiMirt  of  .-^choolH  for 
the  ediiealion  ol  DelaUMre  children.  In  the  year 
If^.'l^,  Ihe  Dclawiiris  agreed  lo  . I  conimulation  of 
>^'l  per  acre,  which  secures  to  them  an  lOdiication 
riiud  of-Slfl,!)!)!). 

The  country  of  the  Kanzans  lies  on  the  Konzas 
River.  1 1  commeni'cs  til)  miles  wesi  fd'  the  Slate 
of  Missouri,  and  Ihenee,  in  a  width  of  ."10  miles, 
exieiids  westward  as  far  as  the  plains  can  be  in. 
habited.  It  is  well  watered  and  limheied  ;  and, 
in  every  respect,  delightful.  They  are  a  lawless, 
dissolute  race,  roriiicrly  they  comiiiitted  many 
depredations  ii|hiu  their  own  traders,  and  other 
persons  asieniling  Ihi'  .Mi.ssoiiri  Kiver.  j5iil, 
being  latterly  restrained  in  this  regard  hv  lh(^ 
t'nilcd  .States,  they  have  turned  llieir  predatory 
operations  upon  their  red  ncighlMirs.  In  lan- 
giiage,  habits  and  eondit  in  in  life,  they  are,  in 
elVeet,  the  same  as  the  ( )  ages.  In  mailers  of 
I'caec  and  War  Ihc  two  tribes  an^  blended. 
They  are  virtually  one  I'eoplc. 

Iiikc  the  O.sages,  Ihe  K.iiizans  arc  ignorant  and 
wrclclied  in  Ihe  exireme;  UMeomnionlv  servile, 
.and  easily  managed  by  the  white  men  who  reside 
among  them,  .\liiiost  all  ol  lliein  live  in  villages 
of  straw,  bark,  Hag  ,iud  earth  lints.  These  latter 
are  in  the  form  of  a  cone;  wall  two  feet  hi  thick- 
ness, siippirled  hy  wooden  pillars  within,  liikn 
the  other  huts,  these   have   no   floor   except    the 

earth.     'I'iic  lire  is  built    in   III litre  of  the  iii- 

Icrior  area.  'I'lic  smoke  escapes  at  an  opening  in 
the  ap'X  of  the  cone.  The  door  is  a  mere  hole, 
I  through  which  they  crawl,  closed  by  the  skin  of 
some  animal  suspended  Ihcriiu.  They  cnltivaln 
]  small  patches  of  corn,  beans  and  melons.  They 
dig  Ihc  groinid  with  hoes  and  sticks.  Tlicu' ticlds 
gciiirally  are  not  fi  need.  'I'licy  have  tine,  how- 
ever, of  .'t(l')  acres,  wliii'h  the  I'liitid  Stales  six 
years  ago  ploughed  and  fenced  for  them.  The 
principal  Chiefs  have  log-houses  built  by  the  tiov- 
crniiient  .\gent. 

It  is  eneoiiragiiig,  however,  to  know  that  tlirse. 
miserahle  creatures  are  beginning  to  yield  lo  Ihe 
elevating  indnciK  es  around  llicm.      .A  Missionary 
has  indneed  some  of  tin  in   lo  leave  the  villages, 
make  separate  settle  iiienls,  build   log. houses,  \<'. 
The  linited  Slates  have  liniiished  them  with  four 
j  yokes  of  oxen,  one   waL'on,  and  other  ineaim  of 
I  cnllivating    the   soil.       They  have   succeeded   in 
I  stealing   a    large   number   of   horses   anil   mules ; 
i  own  a  very   few  hogs;    no  stn"k  cattle.      Hy  a 
};  treaty  formed  with  llieiii  in  IHrJ.'i,  Dli  sections,  or 
:2!t,ll  II)  acres,  of  good  land  wire  to  be  selected  and 
sold  to  edniale  Kaiiz  tus  children  within  their  Ter- 
ritory.     Hut  proper  care  not  having  l«'en  taken  in 
making  the  selection.  '.I.OIIII  acres  only  have  lieeii 
sold.     'I'he  remaining   II, 1)11)  acres  of  the  tract, 
I  il  is  Slid,  will  Kcarcely  sell  at  any  price,  eo  utterly 


30 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


T 


wortlilcRR  iF  it.  Urticr  only  •$!  1,250  liavc  been 
realized  from  thin  iiiiiiiifit;ent  apprnprljilion.  Hy 
the  RuniP  trenty.pmviHinii  \\m»  made  Inr  the  appli- 
cation of  J^tiflli  per  annniii,  to  aid  tlirni  in  .\;;ri. 
cnlturi'. 

Till'  Kifka|Mio  lands  lii'  on  tiie  north  of  lln' 
l>rla\vari»;  rxli  nd  up  the  Missonri  river  ;tll 
iniU'H  (lirtcl,  thence  \vrt;t\vard  aliiMit  I,')  miles,  and 
thenee  Honth  ~'>  niilcK  to  the  Ihluware  line,  em- 
hraeini;  7()H,()(I(I  acTcs. 

They  live  on  the  M'litheastcrn  extremity  of  tiirir 
landH,  near  Cantoninrnl  Leavenworth.    In  regard 
to  eiviliv.ation,  their  eninliiion  is  hiinilar  to  th.-it  of  i 
the   Peorias.     'I'hey   ;iie  niipinjj  n  Kurplns  of  the  [ 

(rraioH,  \e. — hav dlle    and  \\ojth — ,<jj7(lll  worth  ; 

of  tho  latter,  and  .'lit)  iiead  of  the  former  from  the 
United  .States,  in  ohedienee  to  treaty  Kli|inlatioii»  ;  ' 
have  alHPiit  .'ID  yoke  of  oxi  n — 1  1  yoke  of  them  pnr- 
ehawd  chietly    with  the  prochiee  of  their   farms; 
have  a  saw  and   (rrist  mill,   erected  hy  the  I'niled 
States.     Nearly  one. half  of  the  Irihc.  are  unsettled 
and   scattered — some   in   Texas,  others  with   the  | 
Houtherii  trihes,  and  still  others  ran^insr  the  moini-  ' 
tauis.     The  treaty  of  ( )etoher  lil,  liilt'i,   |)rovides  , 
that  the  United  .sVilis  shall  pay   §.')l)0  per  annum 
for  II)  Rueeessive  years,  for  the  support  of  a  school,  ' 
purchase  of  hooks,  \.c.  for  theheneht  of  the  Kieka-  j 
|)0o  tnln,'  on  their  own  lamls.     A  schnol-house  and  : 
teacher  have  henn    furnished  in  eonforniily  with 
this  stipulation.     The  same  treaty  provides  JJil,IIUU 
for  labor  and    improvements    on    the   Kickapoo  | 
lands. 

The  Saukfi,  and  Keynards  or  Foxes,  speak  the  ' 
suiie  lanjruajre,  and  are  so  perfictly  consolidated 
hy  intermarriaj{e«  and  other  tii  s  of  interest,  as,  in  • 
fact,  to  he  one  nation.  They  formerly  owned  the 
northwestern  half  of  the  State  of  Illinois,  !ind  a  . 
large  p.irt  of  the  State  of  Missouri.  N'o  Indian 
tribe,  except  the  .Sioux,  has  shown  such  darin'j  in- 
trepidity and  such  imidacable  hatred  towards 
other  tribes.  Their  enmity,  when  once  excited,  was 
never  known  to  be  appeased,  till  the  arrow  and 
tomahawk  had  for  ever  prostrated  their  foes.  For 
centuries  the  prairies  of  Illinois  and  Iowa  were  tiie 
theatre  of  their  exterminatiiiL^  prowess;  and  to 
them  is  to  be  attributed  the  almost  entire  destruc- 
tion of  the  Missouris,  the  Illinois,  Cahokias,  Kas. 
kaskias,  and  Peorias.  'I'hey  \yere,  however,  steady 
and  sincere  in  their  friendship  to  the  whites  ;  and 
many  is  the  honest  old  settler  on  the  Ixirders  of 
their  old  (k)niinlon,  who  mentions  with  the  warm- 
est feeliiiirs,  the  resjieethil  treatment  he  has  re- 
ceived from  lliem,  while  he  cut  tin'  loj;sforhis 
cabin,  and  plou^fhed  his  "  potato  patch"  on  that 
lonely  and  iin|)ioteeled  frontier. 

Like  all  the  tribes,  however,  this  also  dwindles 
away  at  the  approach  of  the  whites.  A  sadden, 
iujj  fact.  The  Indians'  bones  must  enrich  the  soil, 
iM'fore  the  plougli  of  civilized  man  r;m  ojieii  it. — ' 
The  noble  lieart,  educated  by  the  lempesl  to  endure 
the  last  pann  of  departing;  life  without  a  erinije  of 
a  imiiiele ;  that  heart,  educated  by  his  condition 
to  love  with  all  the  powers  of  hein;,',  and  to  hati' 
H  ith  the  exasperated  mali(.rnity  of  a  demon  ;  that 
heart,  educated  by  the  voii'e  of  its  own  existence 
— the  sweet  whisperings  of  the  streame — the  holy 
flowers  of  spring — to  trust  in,  and  ndorc  the  Cireat 
producing  and  Bustaining  Cause  of  itself,  and  the 
broad  world  and  the  lights  of  the  upper  skies,  must 
fatten  the  corii-iiills  of  u  more  civilized  race  I  The 


sturdy  plant  of  the  \viUlrrnc»a  droops  under  the 
enervaling  culture  of  the  garden.  The  Indian  is 
buried  with  his  arrows  and  Ikiw. 

In  IH3:2  their  friendly  relations  withtlieir  wliitc 
neighlKirs  were,  I  believe,  lor  the  first  time,  scrioni- 
oiisly  interriipled.  A  treaty  had  been  formed  be. 
tween  the  chiefs  of  the  tribe  and  eominissioners, 
representing  the  United  States,  contiiiiiing,  among 
other  stipulations,  the  sale  of  their  lands  north  ol 
the  Kock  Uiver,  ite.,  in  the  State  of  Illinois. — 
This  tract  of  country  contained  the  old  villages 
and  burial  places  of  the  trilii'.  It  was,  indeed,  the 
saiieluary  of  all  that  was  yeiierabhr  and  sacred 
among  liiem.  They  winlireil  and  summorcd  there 
long  before  the  date  of  their  historical  legends. 
And  on  these  flowering  plains  the  sjioilsof  war — 
the  loves  of  early  years — every  thing  that  delights 
man  to  remember  of  the  past,  clung  closely  to  the 
tribe,  ind  made  Ih  :ii  disRatislied  with  the  sale. 
I!l;ick-Ilawk  was  the.  principal  chief.  He,  too, 
was  unwilling  to  leave  his  village  in  u  charming 
glen,  at  the  month  of  Kock  IJiver,  and  increased 
the  dissatisfaction  ol'  his  p((iple  by  declaring  that 
■'the  white  chiefs  had  deceived  himself  and  the 
other  contraetiii'r  chiefs"  in  this,  "  that  he  had 
never,  and  the  other  chiefs  had  never  eonsenled  to 
such  a  sale  as  the  while  chiefs  had  written,  and 
I  were  attempting  to  enforce  upon  them."  They 
dug  up  the  painted  tomahawk  with  great  enthusi- 
!  asm,  and  fought  bravely  by  their  noble  old  chief  for 
their  beaiitifnl  home.  lint,  in  the  order  of  nature, 
'  the  plough  must  bury  tlie  hunter.  And  so  it  was 
with  this  truly  great  chief  and  his  brave  tribe. — 
They  were  driven  over  the  Mississippi  to  make 
room  for  the  niarshalled  host  of  veteran  husband- 
nien,  whose  strong  blows  had  leveled  the  forests  of 
I  the  .'Vtlantic  Stales;  and  yet  unwearied  with 
planting  the  rose  on  the  brow  of  the  wilderness, 
dcinanded  that  tlie  Prairies  also  should  yield  frjod 
to  their  hungry  sickles. 

I      The  country  assigned  them  as  their  permanent 

;  residence,  adjoins   the  southern    boundary  of  the 

the  Kiekapoos,  and  on  the  north  and  noitheast  the 

Missouri  river.     They  are   but  little  improved. — 

;  I'uder  treaty  slipuliitions,  they   have  some  few 

houses  and  tields  made  for   them   by  the  United 

States,  and  are  entitled  to  more.     Some  live  stock 

;  has  been  given  them,  and  more  is  to  be  furnished. 

The  main  Imdy  of  the  Saiiks,  usually  denominated 

the  .Sauks  and  Foxes,  (sliinated  at  1,11(10  .sonis,  re. 

I  side  on  the  Iowa  river,   in  Iowa  Territory.     They 

I  will  ultimately  be  removed  to  iniappropriated  lands 

;  adjoining  those  already  occupied  by  their  kindred 

j  within  the    Indian  Territory.      Ilolh   these   bands 

I  number    13,100.       Hy  the"  treaty  of  Prairie  dn 

liChien  of  1^:10,  the  Sauks  arc  entitled  to  ,«i,')00  a 

jyear  for  the  pnrptises  of  education.     Hy  treaty  of 

li  Seiitember,    l^i|)ti,    they    are   entitled  to  a  school- 

!  master,  a  farmer,  and  blaidisniith,  as   long  as  the 

I  United    States    shall   deem   jiroper.     Three  com. 

!  .brtable  houses  arc    to  be  erected  for   them  ;  'MM 

'•  acres  of  prairie  land    fenced  and  ploughed  ;  such 

!  agricultural  im|deineiits  furnished  as  they  may 

need  for  tlve  years ;  one  ferry-boat ;  "JOS  head  of 

I  cattle;  lOU  stock   hogs;  and  a    flouring  mill. — 

'  These  benefits  they  arc  receiving  ;  but  are  making 

I  an  improyident  use  of  them, 

I       The  country  of  the  lowasctmtains  128,000  acres 

i:  adjoining  the  northeastern  lionndariesof  the  Sauks, 

with  the  Missouri  river  on  the  northeast,  and  the 


greal| 
tioii 
wbiel 
the  <| 

to  till 
lilW:| 

t[ 

withl 

latter 

a  IK  I 

sourl 

of  11 

tlieil 

the 

ulxii 

rxtti 

audi 

em  r 

HOUl 

of  t| 

as  i 

tra' 

froi 

leu; 

wii 


in  the  Roeky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  \<: 


31 


"ps  imrler  tlip 
''"I"'  IiKliun  JH 

Ih  llicir  wliilc 
tunc,  Hcrifjiii. 
■"  I'ormcd  lic- 
"iiinissioiiciH, 
I'li'iJ,',  niiiruitr 
iiiiIh  north  ol 
"<■  llUnm 

"l<l    VlllajrcH 

inclfcd,  (He 
"I'd  Kucri'd 
I'inored  llim; 
■'cnl  Ivirvmin. 
>"rlao('ttiir 

"lilt  dclifrlilH 

loHcly  lo  Ihc 
■|lll  tin;  siilr. 
'■     il'\  too, 
11  fhiirniinjj 
ikI  incrciiscd 
r'-'l-uiiiK  tlint 
'Sill'  nnd  till! 
'  I'lat  he  had 
t-'onwnUul  (o 
written,  and 
'I'licy 
•■"■"t  enthusi- 
old  ell  ief  for 
tr  of  nalnre, 
lid  KG  it  uaH 

"ivc  Irihe 

'I'i  to  make 
III  husband, 
'lie  forests i.r 
•aried  Willi 
wilrlerness, 
''  yield  food 

permanent 
lary  of  the 
>itheast  the 
iij)roved 

.'■■oiiic  f,.„. 

•I"'  I'liiird 
'  live  stock 

t'lirnislied. 
iiiiiiinatcd 
I'  souls,  re. 
ry-  They 
ated  lands 
r  kindred 
fsc  bands 
'rairie  du 
o  .'SSOOa 

treaty  of 

a  school. 
■Iff  as  the 
i'<'e  coiii- 

i?d;  such 
ipy  may 

head  of 
:  mill.— 

inakiiijT 

"JO  acres 
e  Sauks, 
and  the 


lliey  unit 

iv  the  Sal 


great  Neinalm  river  on  l)ie  north.  Their  nondi- !  is  to  ho  furnished  them  for  the  snmfi  lcn(jtli  of 
tion  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Sauks.  The  aid  lime.  Another  treaty  obligates  the  I'nited  Sintcii 
wliieh  they  have  received,  and  are  lo  receive  from  to  ploupli  and  fence  one  hundred  acres  of  land 
the  (Jovernmcnt,  is  alKiiit  the  name  in  iiroportion  for  tliem,  and  to  expend  for  the  term  of  ten  years, 
to  their  iiuiuIkts.  The  villa^re  of  the  S.iiiks  and  !$50n  annually,  in  educatiii!;  (/•maha  children, 
lovvas,  are  within  two  miles  of  each  other.  The  T'lmealis  or  I'onsnrs,  are  the  remnant  of  a 

The  Otoes,  arcllKMlescendaiMsof  llie  Missouris, '  nation  of  respectahh^  iniportimce,  formerly  living 
with  whom  lliey  uniteil  iller  the  rediulion  of  the    U|H)n    Red    river,   of    Lake    Winnipeg.    IIavin(r 

been  nearly  deslroyed  by  the  Sioux,  tliev  removed 
to  the  west  side  of  the  Missouri  riv(T,  where  they 
built  a  forlifiid  villa<;e,  and  remained  sonu^  years; 
but  beinj;  piirKiied  by  their  ancient  enemies,  the 
Sioux,  ami  reduced  liy  continual  wars,  they  joined 
the  Omalias,  and  so  far  lost  their  ori|rinul 
character,  as  to  be  undiHliniruishablc  from  them. 
They  however,  after  a  while,  resumed  ii  separate, 
cxislence,  which  they  continue  to  maintain.  They 
n  side  in  the  nnrtliein  extremity  of  the  Indian 
Terrilorv.  Tbiir  circumstances  are  similar  tu 
those  of  the  Pawiiei"^. 

TIk'  r.iwnees  own  an  extensive,  counli-j-,  lying 
west  of  the  OloiS  and  Omahas,  on  Ihi'  (ileal 
I'lalle  river.  Tliiir  villa;ris  are  upon  this  stream, 
and  its  lower  trilnilarieii.  They  are  said  to  liavi^ 
iiboul  .•}.')l)(l  warriors,  .\nionir  them  are  still  to 
be  found  every  custom  of  old  Indian  life.  The 
earth  hut — the  sealpiii;;  Unite — the  tomahawk — 
and  the  scalps  of  their  foes,  danj;liiii.j  from  the 
posts  in  their  smoky  (hvcllinys— the  wild  war. 
erii  8 — the  venerated  medicine  baj;,  with  the  ralu. 
uinet  of  peace — the  sacred  wampmn,  that  records 
their  treaties — the  feasts  and  dances  of  peace,  and 
of  war — those  of  m;irria(;e,  and  of  sacriliee — the 
moccasins,  and  leir;iiiis,  and  war.caps,  and  horrid 
paintiii^rs — the  moons  of  the  year,  as  March,  the 
worm  moon,'  .\])ril  the   '  iikkhi   of  plants,'  .May 


latter  tribe  by  t[ie  Sauks  ami  Koxes.  They  claim 
a  isirlioil  of  liiid  Ivin;;  i'l  the  fork  between  Mis. 
souri  and  (Ireat  I'Fatle  rivers.  'I'he  (iovernmeiil 
of  the  I'nited  States  undcistaiid,  however,  that 
their  lands  extend  southward  from  the  i'lalle  down 
Ihe  .Missouri  to  Little  Nemaha  river,  a  distance  of 
alKiul  forty  miles  ;  thenee  their  southeni  iHPundary 
extends  westward  up  Litlb^  Nemaha  lo  its  source, 
and  thence  duo  West.  Their  western  and  north, 
erii  boundarii  s  are  not  particularly  defined.  Their 
soullier  Ixiuiidary  isalKiut  twenty. live  miles  N'orlli 
of  Ihe  lowa'shmd.  lly  treaty,  such  of  their  tribe 
as  an;  related  lo  Ihc  whiles,  have  an  iulerest  in  a 
lra"t  adjoinin;f  the  ^Missouri  liver,  and  exiendini; 
IVoiii  till!  Iiillle  .N'emalia  lo  Hie  (ireut  Xemalia,  a 
leu^rth  of  alHiul  Iwenly-ei^lil  miks,  and  ten  miles 
wide.     N^o    IndiallH   reside  fin  this  tract. 

The  condition  of  this  people  is  similar  lo  that  ol' 
the  Osajreii  and  Ivair/.aus.  The  Uniled  Stales 
(ioveniment  has  I'eneed  and  ploughed  for  theiii 
Kin  acres  of  land.  In  IhilJS,  they  cultivated  ;tO(l 
acres  of  corn.  Thev  own  six  plom^lis,  furnished 
by  (iovcrnmeiit.  '1  heir  pro^enitoib,  l!ie  Mi«sou. 
ris,  were,  when  the  French  first  knew  the  country, 
the  most  numerous  tribe  in  the  vicinity  of  S.iiiil 
IjOuIs.  And  the  (jrcat  stream,  on  whose  banks 
they  reside,  and  Ihe  .St.ilr  which  has  risen  upon 
their  huntin;;  ({rounds  when  the  race  is  extinct, 
will  bear  their  name  to  the  [jcneratioiis  of  coming    the  '  moon  of  flowers,'  .luiie  the  '  hot  moon,'  July 


time.  They  are  said  to  have  been  an  ener;;etic 
and  thrifty  race,  Indore  they  were  visited  b}'  the 
iinallpox  an<l  the  destroyiii};  veuffeanee  of  the 
Sauks  aixl  Fo.xcs.  Tlie  site  of  their  ancient  vil. 
laj^e  is  to  be  seen  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river, 
honored  with  their  name,  just  below  where  (iraud 
river  now  enters  it.  'J'lieir  territory  embraced  the 
fertile  country  lying  a  considerable  distince  alons; 
the  .Missouri,  II tjove  their  villaije — and  down  lo 
the  mouth  of  the  ()s;i;;c,  and  tlienc-e  to  the  Mis. 
sissippi.  The  O.sages  consiiier  theiii  their  inferiors, 
and  treat  them  oftentimes  with  (rreat  iiidi;rnity- 
The  Omahas  own  Ihe  country  north  of  the 
inoiith  of  the  (Jreat   Flalte.     The    .Missouri  river 


the  '  buck  moon,'  Aui.;ust  the  '  sturi^eoii  moon,' 
Seplemlier  Ihe  '  corn  moon,  October  the  '  travelinpr 
moon,' NovcihImt  the  'Ix'avcr  moon,' December 
the  '  liuiilini;  moon,'  January  the  '  cold  moon,' 
February  the  'snow  moon ;'  and  in  reference  toils 
phrases,  the  "  dead  moon,"  and  "  live  moon  j" 
and  days  arc  counti'd  by  '  sleeps,'  and  their  years 
by  '  snows.'  In  a  word,  the  Pawnees  ere  as  yet 
uiiclianiied  by  the  enliijhtcnini;  influences  of 
knowledjje  and  reiijjion.  The  pliilanlliropy  of 
Ihe  United  Slates  (ioverimient,  however,  is  put. 
tinU  within  their  reach  every  inducement  to  iiu- 
provi  ineiil.  l!y  treaty,  .Sii.tHtl)  worth  of  agricul. 
lural  implements  are  to  Ih:    furnished  them  annu. 


is  considered  its  northeaslerii  limit  ;  the  northern  ally,  for  the  term  of  five   years  or   lonp;er,    at  the 

and  westfrn  lHum<lary  are  undefined.     This  tribe  discretion  of  the  President  of  the   I'nited  States; 

was  formerly  the  terror  of  their  neiijhiiors.    They  also,  !$ 1, 1)00  worth    of  live   slock,   whenever  the 

had,  in  early  times,  about  one   thousand  warriors,  President   shall    believe   them   jircpared  to  profit 

and  a  proportionate   number  of  women,  and  I'liil.  thereby  ;  also  )jJ^,(IO(l  annually,  to  1m>  ex]Kndcdin 

dren.     IJul  the  small-iKix  visited  them  in  the  year  supporlinw  two   sinitheries,    with   two   smiths  in 

1H02,  and  reduced   the  tribe  to    about  three  liiiii-  each;  for  su]>plvin}r  iron,  steel,  &c.,   for  the  term 

dred  souls.     This  so  dislie.irtcned  those   that  siir.  of  ten  years;  also  four  prist  mills,  propelled  by 

vived,  that  they  burnt  their  vilUiffe  and  Ixcame  a  horse  |K)wer;  also  four  farmers  durinir  the  term  of 

wandcriii);  pco])Ie.     They  have  at  last  taken  pos.  five  years.     Also,  the  sum  of  §1,000  annually, 

session  ajrain  of  their  country,  and  built  a  villajje  for  ten  years,  is  to  be  allowed  for  the  8up|X)rt  of 

on  the  southwest  bank  of  the  Missouri,  at  a  |ilace  schools  ainontj  them. 

chosen  for  them    by    the    I'nited    States.     Their        These  are  the  einiirrant  and  native  Indians  with, 

huts  arc    constructed   of  earth,    like  those  of  the  in  the  '  Indian  Territory,"  and  their  several  con. 

Otoes.     A  treaty  made  with  them  in  July,  183!),  ditions  and  circumstances,  so  far  as  I  have  l)cen 

lirovides  that  an  annuity  of  !j!5(IO  shall  be  paid  lo  able  to  learn  them.  The  other  Indians  in  the  Great 

them   in   agricultural   nnplements,   for  ten  years  Prairie  Wilderness    will  bo  briefly  noticed  under 

thereafter,  and  longer  if  the  President  of  the  Uiii-  two  division.s — those  living   South,  nnd  those  liv- 
tcd   fc>t»tc8  thinks  proper.      A  blacksmith   also,  J  ing  North  of  the  Great  Platte  river. 


»e 


Travels  in  the  (Ureal  Western  Prairie*, 


Tlitrr  iirr  living  on  tlic  liriul  uiilcrH  nl'  |{((l  riv- ' 
cr,  and  l)rt\viTn  (Imt  rivtr  ami  llji'   Rio  llravo  drl 
Nortr,  Ihc.  rcin.iinB  of  twelve  (litlerriil  Irilirs — ten  [ 
of  wliieli  have  tin  nveru(,'e  populiitioiinf  twolnm- 
(Ircd  houIb;  none  of  tlieni  nninlier  morn  llinii  four  I 
hundred.      The  CaninkouiiK  and  Tetans  or  Cii.  | 
jnanrheN,  arc  more  ninnercMis.     Thi'  fornier  live 
iib'iut  the  Bay  of  St.  Ilernar<l.  They  were  always 
ininiiciil  to  the    Mexieant*  and  Spaniards;  never  | 
would  Huccuinb  to  their  aulliority,  or  reeeive  their  j 
rolijriouH  tenejiers.     And  many  hard  Ipatlles  were  I 
fought  in  muintainin;;  their  inile|iendenei'  in  these 
reepeetH.     In  \!il'i,  they  amonnlid  to  alioiil  three 
thousand  individuals  ;   ni  wliieli  six  hundred  were 
warriors. 

'riieCumaneliPsaresupposed  to  lie  Iwcrily  llion- 
sandhtroiiK.  'I'lii'v  are  ii  hrave,  vaprant  tribe,  and 
never  reside  hut  ..  few  days  in  a  place;  hut  travel 
north  with  the  ludValo  in  the  .sunnner.  and  as  win. 
tcr  eomcH  on,  return  willi  them  to  the  plains  west 
of  Te.xas.  They  traverse  Ihe,  inmunse  nyial-v 
of  eountry  exteiuinii;  from  the  'I'rimty  and  Urazoti 
to  the  Ued  IJiver,  and  Ihe  liead  waters  of  the  .\r. 
kansas,  uud  Colorado  o(  Ihe  west,  lo  the  I'aeilic 
Oer  III,  und  llience  (o  the  head  streams  of  the 
Missouri,  und  tlienei-  Ui  their  winter  hainils.  They 
liHve  tents,  made  of  ni'ally  dret.srd  skins,  in  the 
form  of  cones.  Tliese,  «  hen  ll.i  y  stop,  are  pitched 
BO  as  to  forn"  streets  and  squares.  They  pilch 
nnd  strike  these  tents  in  an  aslonishincly  short 
ispaee  <d  time.  To  every  ten!  is  attached  two 
paek.horscs,  the  one  to  carry  Ihe  tint,  and  the 
other  the  (Kjlishcd  cedar  poles,  with  which  it  is 
spread.  Tlicse  loaded  in  u  tricf — the  saddle  lioisi  s 
Iiarnesscd  in  still  less  time — twenty  thousand  sav- 
ages— men,  women,  children,  warriors  and  chiefs  — 
st.irlat  a  signal  whoop,  travel  the  day,  again  raise 
tlieir  eity  of  tents  to  rest  and  feed  themselves  anil 
animals,  for  another  march. 

Thus  passes  life  with  the  ( 'umanehes.     Their 
plains  are  covered  with  hulValo,  elk,  deer,  and  wild  i 
horses.     It  is  said  that  they  drink  the  hlood  of  tin 
bufl'alo  warm  from  the  veins.     'I'hey  also  cat  the  I 
liver  in  its  raw  state,  using  the  gall  as  sauce.    The 
drcBS  of  the  women  is  a  long  loose  robe  that  icaelies  i 
from  the  chin  to  the   ground,  made  of  deer  skin  ' 
dressed  very   neatly,  and  painlid   with  tigiires  of 
difl'erent  colors  and  signilicatioiis.     The  dress  of 
the  men  is  close  pautakions,  and  a  himting.sliirt  or  j 
frock  made  of  the  sami^  heaulil'iil  uiatirial.     'I'hey  I 
are  a  warhkc  and  hrave  riiee,  and  stand  in  the  rela- 
tion of  con<|uerors  amoiig  the  trihes  in  the  south. ; 
The  ."Spaniards  (     Xew  .Me.\ieo  are  all  ai'(iuainled  ], 
with  the  strength  of  their  enemy,  and  their  power  | 
to  punish  those  whom  they  hale.      I'or  many  are  ! 
the  sculps  and  death  dances  among  these  lu<iians,  | 
that  testify  of  waisaiul  tomahawks  which  have  dug  [ 
tombs  for  that  |)oor  apology  of  European  extrne-  II 
tion.  'I'hey  are  cvcceciinidy  fondof  stcalingllie  oh-  I 
jccts  of  their  eniinies'  atieeti. >n.      J'emale  children  ''. 
are  sought  with  the  greatest   a'-idily,  and  adopted  i, 
or  married.    "  Alxiiit  sixty  years  a  ;o,"  as  the  tale  | 
runs,  "the  danghter  of  the  (ioveriior-lM'iicral  at: 
Chihuahua,  wasalolen  liy  them.  The  father  imme-  ['■ 
diately  pursued,  and  hy  an  agent  after  sonic  weeks  |: 
liad elapsed, purchased  her  laiiv' 'in.   I!ut  shcrehised  | 
to  return  to  her  parents,  anil  si  iit  them  these  words  : 
'  That  the  Indians  had  tat  looed  her  face  according 
to  their  style  of  beauty — had  given  her  to  Ix-  the 
wife  of  a  yoiuig  man  by  whom  bIic  believed  herself  J 


eiiciente— that  her  husband  treated  her  well,  and 
rccouc-iled  her  to  his  mode  of  life — that  she  would 
be  iiinde  more  unhappy  by  returning  to  lirr  father 
under  these  eircuiiiBtances,  than  by  remniniriK 
wlirre  she  was.'  !^he  continued  to  live  with  li(T 
hiiihand  in  the  nation,  and  raised  a  family  of 
ehildicn." 

There  arc  the  reniuins  of  fifteen  or  twenty  tribe* 
in  that  part  of  the  (Jreat  I'rairie  VVilderiiesH  north 
of  the  (ireat  Platte,  and  north  .ind  west  of  thn 
Indian  Territory.  They  average  aliout  HOO  each. 
The  Sioux  and  the  Biiiall-pox  have  reduced  them 
thus. 
i  The  Kiiistcneau  cliieny  reside  in  the  Drilinh 
|K)s,sessions  along  the  norlhcrn  shorcKof  Lake  Sn- 
jicrior.  .'■iome  hands  of  them  have  established 
themselves  south  of  latitude  l!l  degrees  Norlh, 
near  the  head  waters  of  these  branches  of  Ked 
Kiver  of  Ijake  Winnipeg,  which  rise  wmtli  of  thn 
sources  of  the  IMississippi.  They  are  niodorato 
in  stature,  well  proportioned,  and  of  great  ai^tivily. 
'  .Alaeken/.ic  remarks  that  their  i^ounlenanees  arc 
frank  and  agrceahle — that  the  females  are  well- 
formed — and  their  features  are  more  regular  and 
comely  than  those  of  any  other  trilw!  In'  saw  n|X)n 
Ihcconlinent.  Tiny  are  warlike— iimnber  al>out 
.■|,IMI(I ;  hut  the  Sioux  are  annihilating  them. 

'I'he  Sioux  claim  u  country  eipial  in  extent  to 
some  of  the  most  powerful  cin|)ires  of  l')nro|M'.— 
Tliiir  iKinndaricB  "  coiiimenee  at  Ihe  I'rairie  dcR 
Chillis,  and  ascend  the  .Mississippi  on  l)oth  sides 
lo  the  river  iJeCorbeaii,  and  up  that  to  its  source; 
from  thence  to  the  sources  of  the  .St.  Peters,  thence 
to  the  '  .Montaigne  de  la  Prairie,'  thence  lo  flic 
,Mis,-«)nri,  and  down  that  river  to  the  Oinahas, 
thence  to  the  sources  of  the  river  Des  MoinB,  and 
thence  to  the  place  of  beginning."  They  also 
claim  a  large  tenilory  south  of  the  Missouri. 

The  country  from  Kinii  liiver  to  the  River  de. 
(■orlH'au  is  claimed  by  them  and  Ihe  CliipjiewayB, 
and  has  been  the  source  of  many  bloody  encoun- 
ters for  the  past  "MM  years.  ThcBe  Indians  have 
coin|uered  and  destroyed  immense  nuinberH  of 
their  race.  They  have  swept  the  banks  of  Ihe 
.Mis.wnri  from  the  (Jreat  Falls  to  the  ninnlh  of 
(jre.it  Platte  and  the  plains  that  lie  north  of  the 
latter  streaiii,  helwecn  the  Itlack  Hills  and  the 
Mississippi.  They  are  divided  intonix  bands,  viz, ; 
the  .'\lenowa  Koulong,  which  resides  around  thn 
falls  of  .St.  Anthony,  and  Ihe  lower  jKirtion  of  St. 
Peter's  Kiver;  the  Washpetoiig,  still  higher  on 
thai  stream;  the  .Susselong,  on  its  head  waters 
and  those  of  Red  River,  of  Lake  Winnipeg;  the 
Yaiiklons  of  the  North,  who  rove  over  the  plains 
on  the  Imrdrrs  of  the  .Missoiiii  valley  south  of  the 
sources  of  the  St.  Peter's;  the  Vonktons  .Ahnah, 
who  live  on  the  Missouri  near  the  entrance  of 
.lames  River;  the  Telons  Itniles  ;  Tetons  Okan- 
(landau  ;  Telons  IMinnekincazzo,  aiul  Tetons  Sa- 
hoiie,  who  reside  along  the  banks  of  the  .MiKsouri 
from  the  tircat  lleml  northward  lo  the  villages  of 
the  Riccarees.  'J'hcirs  is  the  country  from  which 
is  derivi'd  the  coloring  matter  of  that  river.  The 
|)laiiis  are  strongly  imiiregnati  (1  with  GlaulKT  B"lts, 
alum,  copperas,  and  sulphur.  In  the  sprii  ;  of 
the  year  immense  bhill's  fall  in  the  stream;  and 
these,  together  with  the  leacliings  from  these  medi- 
cated prairiex,  give  to  the  waters  their  mud  color, 
and  purgative  qualities. 

Tlicse  bajids  comprise  about  28,000  souls.  They 


in  the  RorJcy  Mountnina,  the  (htfron  Territory,  i^. 


88 


Wfll,  (ind 

hrr  lather 
(MiinininjT 
•  with  licr 
faiiiily  of 

•nlytrilwB 
i<  SH  north 
I'Ht  of  thii 
HOOrach. 
|'<(I  llirni 


rnhniKl  iip(m  btifTHlo  inn'  nnil  Ihr  will!  friiiln  of 
thrir  forrnls.  Thr  form  i  is  prcpiircd  for  winter, 
nnd  for  travHini;  iiRe,  in  the  follnwinfj  innnner: — 
The  Irnn  pnrtp  <  '  'he  bntFnlo  nre  rut  into  Ihiii 
pheeo,  dried  over  a  slow  tire,  in  the  Hun,  or  by  ex- 
)w>aing  it  to  frost — |Kpmided  fine,  and  then,  with  a 
|«irtion  of  berricH,  mixed  with  an  iipial  ipiantity 
of  fill  from  the  hnmpH  and  brihldt,  or  willr  mar- 
row, in  a  iNiihntr  Htale,  mid  sowed  up  tightly  in 
HaekH  of  yreen  hid«,  or  paeked  elowly  in  liankels 
of  wieker  work.  This  "  |«'miciiii,"  an  they  rail 
it,  will  keep  for  wvoral  years.  'I'liey  also  use 
iniieh  ofihe  wild  liee — avena  fatiia — which  (;rows 
ill  preat  almndanee  on  the  St.  I'eterV,  and  anion:; 
the  lakes  and  head  slreamH  of  t{ed  Kiver,  ol 
\Viiinipeir,  and  in  other  |>artH  of  their  territory. 
It  crows  in  water  from  four  to  seven  feel  deep  wiih 
a  muddy  iHittoni.  The  plant  rises  from  four  to 
eight  feet  alHive  the  surface  of  the  water,  iilmul 
the  si/.eof  the  red  eatie  of  Tennessee,  full  of  jomls, 
and  of  the  color  and  texture  of  hullriislicH ;  the 
Blalks  alHivc  the  water,  iind  the  hraiiehes  which 
bear  the  (Traill,  resemble  oats.  To  these  slraiiL'c 
grain  fields  the  wild  duck  nnd  geese  ritiort  for  fond 
in  the  Fiimnier.  And  to  prevent  it  from  iH'ing  de- 
voured ))y  them,  the  Indians  tie  it,  when  the  ker. 
ncl  is  in  the  milky  state,  just  IkMow  the  head,  into 
large  biiiiehes.  This  arr.ingemeiit.  prevents  these 
birds  from  pressing  the  heads  down  within  their 
reacli.  When  ripe,  thi^  Indians  pass  among  it  with 
eanops  lined  with  lilankets,  into  whi<'li  they  lieiid 
thestalks,  and  whipofflhe  grain  with  sticks;  and 
so  abundant  is  it,  Ihatan  expert  sipiaw  will  soon  fill 
ii  canoe.  After  being  galliered,  it  is  dried  and  put 
into  skins  or  baskets  for  use.  Thcv  Iniil  or  parch 
it,  and  eat  it  in  the  winter  season  with  their  peiiii- 
can.  'i'liis  plant  is  found  no  farllier  south  than 
Illinois,  no  farther  east  than  .S.mdusky  liay,  and 
north  nearly  to  Iliidt^n's  Itay.  The  rivers  and 
lakes  of  the  .Sioux  and  Cliippeway  coiinlrvaie  said 
to  prodilie  annually  several  million  bushels  of 
it.  It  is  equally  asniitrilioiis  and  jiiilatable  .is the 
Carolina  rice.  I'arverulso  says  that  the  St.  I'eters 
flows  through  a  country  producing  s|)oiitaneiiiislv 
all  the  neeessaries  of  life  in  the  greulesi  abumi. 
aiiee.  llesides  Hie  wild  rice,  he  inforiiis  us  that 
every  part  of  the  valley  of  that  river  "  is  filled 
with  trees  bending  under  their  loads  of  plums, 
grapes,  anil  apples — the  meadows  with  hops,  and 
many  wrls  of  vegetables — while  the  ground  ,is 
stored  with  edible  roots,  and  covered  with  such 
amazing  ipiantities  of  siigar-inaple,  that  llicv 
would  produce  sugar  enough  for  any  number  of 
inhabitants." 

jMr.  Carver  seems  to  have  been,  to  say  the  least, 
rather  an  iiithusiastie  admirer  of  n.itiire;  aiidal. 
♦  hough  later  travelers  in  the  eoimlrv  of  the  Naii- 
dowessies  (Sioiixl  have  not  l«  i  ii  abli-  to  Hud 
grouped  within  it  all  the  fruits  and  fiowersof  an 
I'jden  ;  yet  that  their  lands  Iving  on  the  Missis. 
sippi,  the  .St.  Peters,  imd  the  Ued  Rivera,  pioduee 
ii  luxuriant  vegetation,  groves  of  fine  timber  sepa. 
rated  bj'  open  plains  of  the  rich  wild  grasses,  and 
by  lakes  and  streams  of  pure  water  well  stored 
with  fish  ;  and  that  tliere  are  many  valuable  edible 
roots  lluTe ;  and  the  wliorlleberry,  blackberry, 
wild  pnmb  and  crab.appic  ;  other  and  later  trav- 
elers have  seen  and  declared  ;  so  that  no  doubt 
can  be  entertained  that  this  talented  and  victori. 
ous  tribe  posscsH  a  very   dciirublo  and  beautiful 


country.  .\  revolted  band  of  tiir  Sioux  enlled 
Osini|)oillcH,  live  near  the  Kocky  .'Nloiintnins  u|ion 
the  .SnBcatehiwine  River,  n  pleas.Tnt  ''liampaign 
country,  alioimding  in  game.  Tliry  subsist  by 
by  the  cliase,  and  the  spoils  of  war.  Their  num. 
ber  is  estimated  to  be  H.llllll.  Their  dwellings  arn 
neat  conieal  tents  of  tanned  liiilValo  skins. 

The  Chippewyaiisor(  'liippeWiivs,weresiip|iosi  d 
by  Iicwis  and  Clark  to  inhabit  liie  country  lying 
between  the  (iOHi  and  ILIth  parallels  of  north  lati- 
tude, and  10(1  and  I  Ml  degrees  of  west  longiliiile. 
<  tiller  aiilhorities,  and  I  believe  the  more  eorieel, 
assert  that  tlev  also  occupy  the  head  walcrs  oftlic 
>lississi|ipi,  Oilcrtail  and  l/cacli,  I)e  Corbciiii  and 
Red  Rivers,  and  Winnipeg  lake.  They  are  ii 
niimeious  tribe,  speak  a  copious  language,  are 
linioioiis,  v.ignint,and  sellisli ;  stature  rather  low  ; 
features  coarse  ;  hair  lank,  and  not  iiifreipiently 
a  siiiiburnt  brown  ;  women  more  agreeable  (and 
who  can  doubt  the  fact^  than  llie  men;  but  have 
.III  awkward  siile-ala-time  gait  ;  which  proceeils 
from  their  Iniiig  aceusloineil,  nine  months  in  the. 
year,  to  wear  snow-shoes,  and  ilrag  sledges  of  a 
weight  from  SJMII  to  100  pounds.  They  are  en- 
tirely  submissive  to  their  hiisbands;  and  for  very 
trilling  causes  are  treated  with  such  cruelty  as  to 
produce  death.  These  people  iK^troth  their  eliil- 
dreii  when  ipiite  voiing ;  and  when  they  arrive  at 
jiiiberty  the  eeremony  of  marriage  is  perfoim^d  ; 
that  is,  the  bridcgriMim  |>ays  the  market  price  for 
his  bride,  and  lakes  lier  to  his  lodge,  not  "  for 
belter  or  for  worse,"  but  to  put  her  away  and  lake 
another  when  he  pleases.  I'liiralily  of  wives  is 
eiisloniaiy  among  llicni.  Tliey  generally  wear 
the  hair  long.  The  braves  (aimetiines  clip  it  in 
faiilaslii'  forms.  The  womi  ii  always  wear  it  of 
great  lenglli,  braided  in  two  queues,  and  dang- 
ling diiwii  llie  back,  .lealous  husbands  sonietimes 
des|Miil  llieiii  of  these  tresses.  Itoth  se.xe.s  make 
from  one  to  four  bars  of  lines  upon  the  lorehead 
or  cheeks,  by  drawing  a  thread  dipped  in  thi'  proper 
color  beneath  the  skill  of  tlmsi'  parts. 

No  people  all' more  attentive  loeomforl  in  dress 
lliati  llie  Chippeways.  It  is  eoiii|>osed  of  decrand 
fawn  skill;",  ilressed  with  the  hair  on,  for  the  win- 
ter, and  without  the  hair  for  summer  wear.  Tli» 
male  wardrobi^  consists  of  shoes,  l<  ggins,  frock 
and  ciip,  \c.  The  shoes  are  madi'  in  the  usual 
moccasin  I'orni,  save  that  they  sometimes  use  the 
green  instead  of  the  tanned  hide.  The  leggina 
are  madi'  like  Ihe  legs  of  pantaloons  unconnected 
by  a  w.iistban  1.  They  reach  to  the  waist  ;  and 
are  siipjKirlcd  Ipv  a  bell.  I'nder  the  Islt  a  small 
piiee  of  leather  is  drawn,  which  serves  as  an 
apron  iHl'ore  and  behind.  The  shoes  and  leggins 
arc  .u'wed  together.  In  the  former  are  [iiil  quan- 
tities of  moose  and  reindeer  hair  ;  and  addition. d 
pieces  III  leather  as  socks.  The  frock  or  hunt, 
iiigshirl  is  in  the  form  of  a  peasant's  frock. 
When  girded  aioiind  the  waist  it  reaches  to  the 
middle  of  the  lliigh.  The  niilti  lis  are  sewed  to 
the  sleeves,  or  sus|iended  by  strings  from  the 
shoulders.  A  kind  of  tippet  surrounds  the  neck. 
The  skin  of  the  deer's  head  furnishes  a  curious 
covering  to  the  head ;  and  a  robe  made  of  several 
deer  or  fawn  skins  sewed  together,  covers  the 
whole.  This  dress  is  worn  single  or  double,  as 
circumstances  suggest ;  but  in  winter  the  hair 
side  of  the  undersiiit  is  worn  next  the  person,  and 
that  of  the  outer  one   without.     Thus  arrayed, 


34 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


ihr  f'hl|iprw.iy  will  hy  liiiiiscU'  down  im  tlio  icr,  ]. 
Ill  llic  iiiiildK'  ol'  a  l;ikc,  uiiil  rr|Mw  in  conirort; 
:in(l  wlun  rolcd,  nml  dim  ncuinlxrcd  of  llic  miiow- 
driflH  III  It  li.ivr  idviri'd  liiiii  wliilc  ll^l(•l•|>,  lid 
iiKiiinlH  liin  niiow-nIioi'h,  mid  tnivilx  on  witlioiil 
Tear  ol'  IroslH  or  utoriii.  'I'lir  iUvhh  of  tlm  women 
dillirs  fiiiiii  tliiit  of  null.  'I'lliir  lc,rjriiin  urr  tird 
lirlow  llic  kiii'i' :  iiikI  tlirlr  I'roi'U  or  I'liniilHc  r.\- 
li  ndN  ilcuvii  lo  llii!  aiiklr.  MhIIiith  iiiiilii'  tlirno 
(,MiiiirMlH  lurijr  inoii({li  uIhuiI  (lie  slioiildiTH  lo  hold 
nil  iiilUiit;  and  wlun  tnivcliii^;  r.arry  llicir  litlUi 
oiH'H  ii|><iii  llicir  l>ai'U»  iikxl  llie  skin. 

'I'liclr  iiriiiH  and  (loincntii' ii|i|iiiriiliiN,  in  iiddilion 
lo  i;iiiis,  &,!■.,  ol)t;iiiiiil  from  llic  wliilr.i,  arc  Imiwk 
and  arrow.!,  rifliin^,'-n('lH,  and  lines  iiiiidi' <d'  ijireii 
di'cr  Hkin  iIioii^h.  and  luUof  llir  Hiiinc  niatiri.d  lor 
cati'liin^  till'  ln'uvrr,  iih  lie  cNCapCH  from  liis  lodnc 
into  llir  Wilier;  and  Hled;ieH  and  hiiow-sIioih,  'I'he 
Hiiow-filioeH  are  o(  very  Hii|i<'rior  workininisliii). 
'I'he  iniu  r  part  of  the  liaine  is  Hlraiylit  ;  tin:  outer 
one  IH  eiirvdl;  the  ends  are  hro\ijr|it  to  a  poinl, 
and  in  front  turned  up.  'This  frame  done,  they 
are  neatly  plaeed  wdli  li!clil  lhon;,rH  of  deer  skin. 
'I'luir  8ledi;es  arc  made  of  red  lir.trec  Iwards, 
neatly  polished  and  turned  np  in  front.  'I'he 
iiRiiiiH  of  Biistainiiif;  life  in  the  eouiitry  claimed 
liy  tlu'se  Indians  arc  aliimilaiit  ;  and  if  snUk-ieiit 
loretlioii^'ht  were  used  in  layni;^  in  food  for  win- 
ler,  tli'V  minlil  live  in  eonipurative  (oinforl.  The 
W(Hldle^s  hills  arc  Co V'  red  with  a  moss  that  sus- 
taiii-i  tin:  deer  and  moose  and  reindeer;  and  when 
lioiled.    lorniH    a   (XelatinouH    suhslanec    ipiito    ac.  ■ 

I  :plalilc  to  the  human  palate.  Their  streams  and 
lakes  are  stored  with  the  (rrealest  uliundance  of 
valuible  lisli.  [tut  although  more  provident  than 
any  other  Indians  on  Ihe  contiiicni,  they  often 
snll'er  severely  in  llic  dead  of  winter,  when,  lo 
prevent  dculli  from  rold,  Ihey  lire  fioin  their 
lisliiiijf  Flations  to  their  scanty  woods. 

'I'liey  are  siipcr.stilious  in  the  c.vlreme.  Almost 
cv(  rv  aelioii  of  their  lives  is  iiithunccd  by  sonic 
"himsiral  iiolion.  'I'hey  hclievc  in  the  c.xislcnei- 
'.:  .1  (rood  and  evil  spirit,  Ihil  ruli'  in  their  several 
dc]'  nimeiils  over  the  fortunes  of  men  ;  and  in  a 
si.ilc  of  lulurc  rewards  and  punishiru'iils.     'I'hey 

II  ive  an  older  of  priists  who  administer  the  riles 
of  their  religion— <dl'er  sucriliees  at  their  solemn 
leasts,  i.'ce.  They  have  conjurois  who  cure  dis- 
eases—as rheimialism,  tlu.\  and  eoiisinnplion. 

'•  The  notion  which  these  people  cntcrlain  of  the 
crc.ition  is  of  a  very  siinjular  nature.  They  hclicvp 
that  al  lirsl  llieearih  was  one  vast  and  entire  ocean, 
inhaliileil  liy  no  liviiii;  creature  e.\e.cpt  a  iiiifjhly 
Hird,  wliosi'  eves  were  lire,  wlios.'  jrlaiices  were 
lij,'hlninj;,  and  the  llappini;  of  whose  winjjs  was 
lliunilir.  On  his  dcseeiil  to  the  ocean,  and  touch- 
in;;  it,  the  eurlli  instanlly  arose,  and  remained  on 
the  surface  of  the  waters.  This  omnipotent  Itird 
then  called  forth  all  the  variety  of  animals  from 
the  earth  except  lli(>  ('hippewavs,  who  were  pro- 
duced from  a  do(j.  And  this  eircunistanee  occa- 
sions their  avi'ruion  to  the  llesli  of  that  animal,  as 
well  as  the  people  who  cat  it.  This  extraordinary 
tradition  proceeds  lo  relate  that  the  (jreal,  liird, 
havinir  iinishcd  his  work,  iiuidc  un  arrow,  which 
was  to  be  preserved  w'illi  great  care  and  to  re- 
main untouched  ;  but  that  the  C'hippewuys  were 
so  devoid  of  understniidini;  as  to  carry  it  away; 
and  the  sacrilcfrc  8f)  curugcd  the  great  liird  that 
he  huB  never  since  apiwareU." 


"  They  have  nl«o  a  Iriidilioii  nnioni;  llicm  thai 
tlioy  oriifiually  came  from  anollnT  country,  in. 
hibiled  by  very  wicked  people,  and  hail  travermil 
a  i;reat  hike,  which  was  narrow,  shallow  and  lull 
of  islaiida,  where  lliey  hail  sntVcred  i;real  misery — 
it  heini;  always  winter,  with  ice  and  diep  snow. 
At  the  ('opperniine  liiver,  where  they  had  made 
the  first  laiiil,  the  ground  was  cnvereil  with  cop- 
per, over  which  a  body  of  earth  had  silicic  been 
collecled  to  the  ileplli  of  a  man's  lii);lit.  They 
believe,  also,  that  in  ancient  limes,  their  ancosloiH 
lived  till  their  feel  were  worn  out  with  walkiuc 
and  their  Ihni.its  with  caliii;;.  They  descrilie  a 
delu[;e  when  Ihe  waters  spread  over  the  whole 
earth,  e.iicept  the  lii(;liest  momitains,  on  the  lops 
of  which  Ihey  preserved  thcmsilvos.  They  be- 
licv(^  lliat  immediately  after  their  death  they  pass 
into  another  world,  where  Ihey  arrive  at  a  lur({e 
river,  on  which  Ihey  enibark  in  n  stone  canoe; 
and  that  a  gentle  enrreiit  bears  lliem  on  to  an 
exlcnsivc  lake,  in  the  ei  litre  of  which  Ih  u  most 
beautihd  island ;  and  that  in  view  id'  this  deli|rht. 
ful  abode  they  receive  that  pid^jenient  for  their 
eondnet  durin>;  lili:  which  deterniines  their  final 
slate  and  undlerablc  allotment.  If  their  good 
actions  are  declared  to  predominate,  thoy  are 
I  laiiilod  U|inii  the  island,  where  tlmrc  is  to  bn  no 
end  to  their  happinesH  ;  which,  however,  to  their 
notion,  eonsints  in  an  elernal  enjoyment  of  sensual 
i  pleasure  iwul  carnal  (rralificatiou.  Itut  if  there  be 
I  bud  actions  to  wei)rli  down  the  balance,  the  st«ne 
'  canoe  sinks  at  once,  and  leaves  them  np  to  their 
;  chins  in  water,  to  behold  and  regret  the  reward 
enjoyed  by  Ihe  good,  and  clcrnally  struggling,  but 
I  with  unavailing  endciivors,  to  reaeli  the  blissful 
island  from  which  Ihey  are  excluded  for  ever." 

It  would  be  interesting,  in  closing  IhiB  notice  of 
the  (ircat  I'rairie  wilderness,  lo  give  an  account  of 
Ihe  devoted  ^lissionaries  of  the  various  denomina- 
tions who  arc  laUirmg  to  cullivatc  the  Indian  in 
I  a  manner  which  nl  once  licspeukH  their  goo^i  senHC 
and  honest  intentions.  Hut  as  it  would  requite 
more  space  and  lime  than  can  be  devoted  lo  it 
merely  to  jircscnt  a  skeleton  view  of  their  mulli- 
f.irions  doings,  I  shall  only  remark,  in  passing, 
!  that  llicy  appetir  lo  have  ailopicd,  in  their  plan  of 
operations,  the  principle  that  lo  civilize  these  peo- 
|de,  one  of  the  first  slejis  is  lo  create  and  gratify 
those  physical  wants  peculiar  to  the  civilized 
state;  and  also,  that  the  most  successful  meauB 
of  civilizing  their  mental  st.ite,  is  lo  teach  them 
a  language  which  is  filled  with  the  learning  and 
pcienees  and  the  religion  which  have  civdized 
lOurope,  that  Ihey  may  enter  at  once  and  with 
:  the  fuUest  vigor  into  the  inimense  liarvcsts  of 
knowledge  and  virtue  which  past  ages  and  su[h'- 
rior  races  have  prepared  for  tlicni. 

rilAI'TER  IV. 

four  Wn.i.iAM— its  Sirumue,  Owiien,   People,  AnImiiU, 

I      Buf^inrhs.  Ailventurrk,  and  llu/.^rilii — A  Oivhion — A  Mdrcl) 

i     —Fori  El  Puelilu— Trappers  ami  WUiskey— A  (jenius— 

A'l  AilvfiilunJUs   Trnriuois— A    Keiilurkinn— llnr^e*  bijiI 

SiTVaut— A    Trnile— A   Start— Arkflil.iitti  anil    Country— 

Wnlfiiiin  Mow  liiliit,— Creek*— Kco  Waliaitn — A  I'iugue  i»  f 

I      Kurpt— t'wrditi'lHS— J.iiil's'ji  IV»k— PikeV  Peak— A   HhUi 

—  riie   Piison  1)1  ilie  Arkansas— Kutraiie  of  ibe  Rocky 

MouDiaini, — A  Vale. 

j  FoiiT  WiLi.iA.M  or  Bent's  Fortoii  (lie  north  side 
I  of  the  Arkansas  8(1  miles  north  by  east  from  Taos 
i|  in  the  Mexican  dominions,  and  iilmut  IliU  miles 
;i  from  the  inuiuiiuins,  wus  erected  by  gentlemen 


ill 


owners  in   IM-3,  for  pnr 

Spaniards  of  Santa  I'c  a 

Clirymic  and  < 'unianelii 

,,raparallelogr.im,lhcn< 

of  which   are  nUml    l.'d 

western  llltl  led  in  li  ng 

s(  veil  feel  ill  thickness  a 

or  cighlicn   feci    in    liigl 

Ihroiigh   a   large    g.itew: 

which  swing  a  pair  of  ii 

the  iiorth-wiHl   and  soul 

cylindrical  baslioiis,  alKi 

:H   feet  in   higbt.     The 

for  the  use  of  llic   eanii 

command  the  fort  and  I 

iiili Tior  area  is  divided 

and  the  l.irger  of  them 

|Mirtiou.     It  is  nearly  a 

story  bouses,  the   well, 

are  on  the  north  side;  i 

ranircs  of  oiic-Hlory  liou 

Hiuillishop,  llii'gale,  at 

Ihe  place  of  business. 

hcrvants  have  their  sli 

meiils,  and  here  arc  lb 

the  IndiaiiH  in  Iheseasi 

numbers  and  barter,  an 

guardianship  of    the   i 

loaded  with  grape,  and 

this  area  a  passage  lea 

wall  and  tlieone.slory 

yard,  which  occupies 

within  the  walls.     'I'll 

mules,  tVe.  to  reiK)sc  i 

dationa  at  night,      lb' 

ami  adjoining  the  wal 

strongly  built,  and  la 

I,")  of  those  large  vehi 

vcying    Ihe    licltrics 

thence  to  the  post. 

mcr  renders  it  necess, 

sun. 

The  walla  of  the   f( 

arc  conBtrueled  ol  ai 

nienled  together  with 

lloors  of  the  bnildin 

moislcned  andlieali'i 

lets  ;  the  upper  tlooi> 

the  roofs  of  all  are  n 

the  same  material,  f 

transverse  timbers  ci 

of  Ihe  houses  beiiiL' 

tine  priimeii'ide  in  lli 

charming  climate. 

in  the  business  of  ll 

III  be  alK)Ut  (ill.      I'" 

charge  of  one  of  the 

ing  lo  market  tln'  I 

gathered  at  Ihe  fori 

them  new  slocks  o 

Another  parly  is  d 

meal  in  Ihe  neiglilx 

in    gnarding   the    a 

daily  food  on  tliebai 

parly    still,   under 

trader,   goes  into  s- 

trade,     t'nc  or  mo 

onolhcr  of  these  par 

post  defend  it  and 

eomjmny,  &c.     Kt 


in  the  Rorky  Mountains,  the  Ortgon  Territory,  ffi: 


8S 


nwnen  in  1839,  (br  piir|inM-fi  «{  trailr  with  tlir :! 

SpnriiiirdK  of  Snnin  I'f  iiiiil  'I'aoH,  iiml  llir  Kiil.iw, 
(  licvcmir  lUid  ('iliiiiiiK'lii'  lull:  iiiH.  It  ik  jii  IIii'  riinii 
III  II  |iai'allrliii;r.iiii,  llir  iiorthrru  iinil  Hiiiitlirni  nIiIcn 
iir\\liirli  arc  nli'iiil  l.'id  lirt.  iiml  tlirraxtcrii  ami 
wrslrrri  Mill  li'cl  m  |riii;tli.  'I'lic  walls  arr  nix  or 
Hrvc?i  I'lrl  ill  tllirkliiHH  at  llic  lian',  and  si  vriitn  ii 
or  ciiilitriii  lift  ill  liii;lit.  'I'lir  lort  in  intend 
lliiKiiL'li  a  laryr  (rali'way  mi  llir  iMHlcrn  sidr,  in 
wliirll  Hwiiii;  a  Jiaii'  id'  ininirliHi'  plaiiU  diMirn.  At 
till' niirtli-wrsl  and  NUitlirisl  rnrnrrn  Htaniltu'ii 
rvliiiilriral  liaHliniiH,  alHiiit  III  I'rrl  m  iliaiiii'trr  and 
;t'l  fict  III  liiillit.  'I'ln'Hc  arc  |prii|)(rlv  pi  rloralcd 
liir  the  use  nl' tlii^  raiiiinn  and  Hiiiall  arnis  :  ami 
I'Miiiniand  tin'  Inrl  and  thr  pliiinsarnund  it.  'I'lii' 
inti  'iiir  .111  II  in  divided  inlu  two  parts.  'I'lie  one 
and  the  Inner  of  llieni  oeciipiiH  tlie  iiorlli-e.mtorn 
|H)rlioii.  It  in  nearly  u  mpiare.  A  raii^'e  ol' two 
Htnry  liiiilKeH,  tile  well,  and  tlie  lilaeksniitli  shop 
ale  on  the  iiiirlh  Hide;  on  \\ir  west  and  xoiitli  are 
ran','eH  ot  oiie.Htory  lionses  ;  on  the  c  ii^t  the  hluek- 
sniilli  Hliop,  the  ({ale,  and  the  outer  wall.  This  is 
the  place  ol' ImsinesH.  IIi  lo  the  ."Wnefs  and  their 
servants  have  (heir  sleepintr  ami  cookiiii;  aparl- 
nienls,  and  here  ale  the  stnrelnaiM.  In  this  are 
the  IndiaiiH  in  theseaKon  of  trade  (r,,ther  in  larjre 
nninhers  and  harter,  and  trade,  and  liny,  under  the 
;;iiariliansliip  of  the  (■arinnades  of  the  ha^tioiis 
III  ided  with  lifape,  and  liiiikin'4  upon  lliein.  From 
this  area  a  passaj^e  leads  lielwein  the  eastern  outer 
wall  and  theone-slory  houses,  to  the  ear.il  or  e. ivy- 
yard,  whieli  neeupies  the  reinaimler  of  the  spaee 
within  the  walls.  'I'liis  is  the  place  tor  the  horses, 
iniileB,  iVe.  to  re|K)se  in  salcty  Iroin  Indian  depre. 
datioiin  at  iiijjht.  lieyond  the  earal  to  the  wist 
and  adjoinintj  the  wall,  is  the  w.iitoii. house.  It  is 
Ktron^rly  huilt,  and  hir(;e  eiion<;li  to  shelter  l'^  or 
ITiof  those  lari;e  vehicles  which  are  ns<'d  in  eon- 
veyinff  the  pellricH  to  .St.  Ijoiiis,  and  gcKids 
Ihcneo  to  the  post.  'I'lie  loni;  ilroiiijht  of  snni. 
nier  renders  it  necessary  to  jirotect  tin  in  from  the 
sun. 

The  walls  of  the  I'oit.  its  haslions  and  houses, 
are  eoiiBlnicteil  of  adohirs  or  nnlmrnt  hrieks,  ee- 
iiKiiled  tDfiellier  with  a  mortar  nfelay.  The  lower 
IliMirs  of  the  Iviiildiirj  are  in  iilc  of  clay  a  little  ; 
iiioistene<l  and  hrateii  liaril  with  larf^'e  wooden  mal- 
lets ;  the  iipper  floors  of  the  two.story  houses  and 
the  roofs  of  all  are  made  in  the  same  way  and  of 
the  same  material,  and  are  supported  hv  heavy 
transverse  timbers  covered  \iithlinish.  'I'lie  tops 
of  the  hon.ses  heiii'i'  tlat  and  (rn-velcd,  fuinish  a 
tine  proniinade  in  tlii'  inooiiliifht  eveii'.iifjs  of  that 
ehiirininK climate.  The ninnlxrof  men  employed 
in  the  hiisiness  of  this  eslahlishment  is  supposed 
to  he  alK)Ut  (ill.  Filteen  or  twenty  <d"  them  in 
ehar(r(!  of  one  of  the  owners,  are  employed  in  tak- 
inj;  to  ninrket  the  Unlliilo  rohes,  &:e.  which  are 
!,ratliered  (it  the  lort,  and  in  hrinirini;  hack  with 
them  new  stocks  of  (joods  for  liitnre  purchases. 
Another  iiarty  is  employed  in  linntinir  Imtlalo 
meal  in  the  iieijfhlHirinf;  plains;  and  still  another 
in  I'uardinir  the  animals  while  they  cut  their 
daily  food  on  the  hanks  ol  the  river.  And  another 
])arty  still,  under  eommand  of  im  experienced 
trader,  (roes  into  some  distant  Indian  camp  to 
trade.  Due  or  more  of  the  owners,  ami  one  or 
onother  of  these  parties  that  chances  to  lie  at  the 
post  defend  it  and  trade,  keep  the  liooks  of  the 
comi)any,  &c.     Ench  of  these  parties  encounters 


(lanKerit  -'iiil  Imrdsliipii  from  whir.li  peiMoni  within 

the  Uiriler^of  civili/.iition  would  shrink. 

The  country  in  which  the  liirt  is  sitimted  is  in  a 
nniiucr  the  common  liiid  of  several  trilMS  iinfriend. 
ly  alike  toone  anotherand  the  whiles.  The  Kiltaws 
and  ('Iwyeimcs  of  (lie  moimtaiiiH  near  ."»iiiita  !''(■, 
and  (I,  i'awnecH  of  the  (ireat  I'latle,  eonie  to  the 
L'|>|'er  .Arkansas  (onieet  tin  ImlValoin  their  annual 
miirrations  to  the  north;  ami  on  the  trail  ol  these 
animals  lollow  up  the  ( 'innanelii's.  And  thus 
in  the  iiionlhs  of  June,  An(;nst  and  SeptcmlMT, 
I  here  are  in  the  ueiirhliorlKKid  of  these  traders  from 
liftei  II  to  tw(  nty  thous.ind  sava(»es  ready  iiiid  pant. 
liii(,'  for  plunder  and  hlooil.  Il  they  cn(;a[;e  in  l)al_ 
llini;  out  old  causes  of  conti  iition  aiiioui;  them. 
si'lvit",  the  .Messrs.  Ilents  feel  eonip.iratively  sain 
in  their  solitiiry  fortress.  Hut  if  they  spare  each 
other's  properly  and  lives,  there  are  (rri'al  anxieties 
at  I'ort  William  ;  evi'ry  hour  of  day  and  iii(,'ht  is 
preirii.int  with  (laii(;er.  These  iintamealile  sava. 
jjes  may  drive  heyonil  naili  the  liulllilo  on  wliieli 
the  (rarrison  suhsisls  ;  may  he;;irl  the  fort  with  their 
Icjjions  and  cut  ott' supplies;  may  prevent  thcni 
from  Ici'din;;  their  animals  iijion  the  plains ;  may 
lirini;  u|Mm  them  slurvatioii  and  the  knawinjj  their 
own  iKsh  at  the  door  of  death  1  All  these  are  ex. 
peetations  which  as  yel  the  iijnorance  alone  of  the 
Imliansof  the  weakin  SHof  the  I'ost,  lirevents  Ijom 
liecoming  realities,  lint  at  what  momeiil  some, 
cliieflain  or  white  desperado  may  (jive  them  the  re- 
ipiisite  knowli'dire,  an  uncertainty  around  which 
are  assemhled  at  I'orl  William  many  v  ell  (rroundcd 
fears  for  life  aiiiUmiperly. 

Instances  of  ffle  dariii'^  intrepidity  of  the  Cu. 
niamlies  thai  occnncd  just  before  and  after  my 
arrival  here,  will  scrvi  to  show  the  ha/,  irds  and 
dangers  of  which  I  have  s()okcn.  Alsiut  iln 
middle  of  June,  18311,  a  hand  of  sixty  of  them  uji. 
der  cover  of  ni(;lit  crossed  the  river  and  concealed 
tliemsi  Ivi  samonir  the  bushes  that  j;row  thickly  on 
the  hank  near  the  place  where  the  animals  of  the 
eslalilisliment  Iced  dnrini;  the  day.  i\o  sentinel 
iH'injr  on  duty  al  the  time,  their  pres<'ncc  was  im. 
observed  ;  and  when  inorniiif;  eanie  the  Mexican 
hors(!-i;uard  nionnted  his  horse,  and  with  thenoiso 
and  shoutings  usual  with  that  class  of  servants 
when  so  em])li)yeil,  drove  his  eliar(;e  out  of  the, 
lort  ;  and  ridini;  rajiidlv  from  side  to  side  of  th-; 
rear  of  the  baud,  nijri  d  them  on  and  sisiii  had  them 
iiil)bliii(j  the  short  dry  (;rass  in  a  little  vale  within 
ijrape  shot  distance  of  the  (;uii8  of  the  bastions.  It 
is  customary  for  ii  (fuard  of  animals  alnml  these 
tradiiiK-posts  to  lake  his  station  beyond  bis  eh  iri;e  ; 
and  it  they  stray  from  each  other,  or  attempt  to 
stroll  too  far,  to  drive  tlicin  toi;ether,  and  thus  keep 
tlieiii  in  the  best  [lossihle  situation  to  be  hurried 
hastily  to  the  earal,  should  the  Indians,  or  other 
evil  persfins,  sw<k>|)  down  n|)on  them.  And  as 
there  is  constant  daiijjer  of  this,  liis  horse  is  held 
by  a  lon(f  rope,  and  (;ra/,es  around  him,  thai  he 
may  be  in'i':;!le<l  quickly  at  the  first  alarm  for  a  re. 
treat  withi.:  ihe  walls.  The  faithful  guard  at  Bent's 
on  the  inorniiijj  of  the  disaster  I  uin  relating,  had 
dismounted  after  drivin((  out  his  animals,  and  sat 
n|K)n  the  ground  watching  with  the  greatest  fidelity 
for  every  call  of  duty ;  when  these  M  or  Ul)  Imlians 
sprang  from  their  hiding-places,  ran  upon  the  nni- 
,  mals,  yelling  hombly,  and  att,.'mpted  to  drive  them 
across  the  riv(T.  'riio  guard,  however,  nothing 
I  (luuntod,  mounted  quickly,  and  drove  liis  horse  ut 


36 


Travels  in  the  Great  Wcslern  Prairies, 


fiill  speed  nmoiiif  them.     The  niuleR  and  horsep  | 
hearing  his  voice  amidst  the  rrighlniniT  yells  of  the  : 
savages,  immediately  Flatted  at  a  lively  pnre  lor  i 
the  fort  ;  but  the  Indians  were  on  p11  sides,  and  he-  ' 
wildered  them.     The  guard  ctill  pressed  llieni  on-  ' 
ward,  and  called  for  help;  and  on  they  rnslicd, 
despite  the  eft'nrts  of  the   Indians  to  the  contiMry. 
The  battlements  were  covered  with   men.     They  i 
shouted  encouragement  lo  thi^  brave  guard — "  On.  j 
ward,  onward,"  and  the  injunction  was  oheycd. 
He   spurred  his  horse  lo  his  greatest    speed   lioin 
side  to  side,  and  whijiped  the  hinderinost  of  Ihi' 
band  with  his  leading  rope,      lie  bad  saved  every 
animal :  he  was  within  :J0  yanls  of  Ihe  open  irah' ; 
he  fell:   Ibree  arrows  from  Ihe  Ihiws  of  Ihc  Cu- 
mancbes  had  cloven  his  heart.     And  relieved  of 
him,  tlie  lords  of  the  fpiiver  galhered  their  l)rey- 
and  drfive  Iheni  lo  Ihe  lK)rders  of  Texas,  wilhout 
injury  to  life  or  limb.      I  saw  Ibis  faithful   guard's 
grave.      He   had   lieen  buried  a  few    d.iys.     The  ' 
wolves   liad  been  iligsing  into  it.     Thus  IK  or  .'ill  1 
nndes  "nd  horses,  and  their  hesi  servant's  lili',  were 
lost  lo  Ihe  Alcssrs.  IJenIs  in  a  single  daj'.     1  have 
heei    informed  also  that  those  horses  and  uuiles.  ; 
which  mv  eompanv  had  taken  great  pleas'iie  in  re.  ' 
covering  for  them  m  the  plains,  were  :iiso  stocn  ui  i 
a  similar  manner  soon  afler  my  'ieparlure  li>in 
the  |)osl  ;    and   that  genllemen    owners  were   in 
hourly  cciioclation  of  un   attack    ui)on  the  fort  , 
itself.  I 

The  same  liabililv  to  the  loss  ei  life  and  jirop.  ! 
eriy  attends   llic^   trailing   e.vpeditions   to   Ihe  en- 
campmenls  of  the  Irllies.  >  1 

An  anecdote  of  Ibis  ;.^rvii'e  v/as  related  lo  me. 
An  old  trappc"  wasseni  from  Ibis  fort  lo  Ihe  laitaw  i 
eump,  wilh  a  well  assorted  slock  of  [foods,  and  a 
Imdy  of  men  to  guard  tbeni.  Afler  a  tedious  ma  rib 
among  llii^  snows  and  swollen  sireanisand  dceliv- 
ilies  of  the  mountains,  be  <-ame  in  siubl  oi  (!ie  vil- 
lage. It  was  situated  in  a  sniiken  valley  .■uiiong 
the  hideously'  dark  clifl's  of  IIk'  Kulaw  nioiml.iius.  , 
And  so  small  was  il,  and  .so  deep,  liiat  Ihi'  over- 
banging  liigbis  not  onlv  proleclcd  il  from  Ibe  ' 
blasts  of  approaching  wuilcr.  but  drew  lo  llieir 
frozen  embrace  Ibe  falling  snows,  and  left  lliisviil. 
ley  ils  grasses  ami  llowers,  wliili'  Ibeir  own  a'vliil 
beads  were  gliilering  wilh  perpclual  IVosls.  'I'be 
lrade,-s  encamped  upon  a  sm.ill  s,  ell  of  land  Ihat 
overl(H)ked  Ibe  smoking  wigwaui;-.  ami  i^cnl  a  ile- 
pulalion  to  Ihe  cbi.  '  lo  parley  for  Ihe  privilege  of 
opening  a  trade  will.  Ihe  tribe.  'I'bey  wr'rc  re. 
ceived  wilb  great  h.iughtiness  by  lliose  mouarelis 
of  Ibe  wilderness,  and  were  askeil  •*  why  lliey  had 
dared  euler  the  Kutaw  moniilains  wilhoul  Ibeir 
pcMinissioTi."  licinir  answered  Ibal  Ibcy  "bail 
traveled  from  Ihe  lorl  In  Ibal  place  in  order  lo  ask 
their  biglmesscs  permission  lo  trade  wilh  llw 
fcelaWH  ;  '  the  principal  cbief  leplied.  thai  no  |ier. 
missioii  had  been  i;ivi  ;i  to  Ihcm  lo  cuuie  Ihcrc  nor 
to  remaii;.  Theinlervicw  einleil  ;  and  the  traders 
r.innied  to  llieir  camp  wilh  no  very  pleas.iul  .in- 
lieipations  an  lo  Ibe  result  of  their  expedition. — 
Their  baggage  was  placed  alH)Ul  for  breastworks  ; 
their  animals  drawn  in  nearer,  and  lied  tirinly  to 
dtakei'  ;  and  a  patrol  guard  slationcd,  as  theevin. 
ing  shut  in.  I'very  |ircparation  li)r  Ihe  attack. 
winch  apr>eared  determined  upon  on  Ihe  part  of 
the  Indians,  being  made,  they  waited  lf)r  the  tJrst 
rav  of  day--thal  sign.il  of  drcadlnl  havoc  among 
alf  the  tribes — with  tho  dctoriiuncd  anxiety  which 


fdls  the  iHisom,  sharpens  the  sight,  nerves  Ihc  arm, 
and  opens  Ibe  ear,  lo  Ibe  slightest  rustle  of  a  leaf, 
so  remarkably,  among  the  grave,  self.ptissesscd, 
and  brave  traders  of  Ihe  Great  Prairie  and  .Moun. 
tain  Wilderness.  inuring  the  first  part  of  tho 
night.  Ihe  Indians  hurrying  to  and  fro  througl. 'he 
village — their  war  speeches  and  war  danci-s  - 
and  Ihe  painting  their  faces  wilh  red  and  Mack,  in 
.illenuite  stripes,  and  an  occasional  scout  wanly 
approaeliiug  the  camp  of  the  whites  imlieatcd  nn 
appclile  for  a  coufiiet  thai  appeared  lo  (ix  with 
prophetic  eert.iinty  Ibe  fate  of  Ibe  traders.     Kighl 

I  himdrcd  Indiant*  In  fitty  whiles,  was  fearful  odds. 

:  The  morning  light  streamed  faintly  up  Ihc  Kasl 
at  last.  The  traders  held  their  riHes  wilh  Ihe  grasp 
of  dying  men.  Another  and  anolhcr  iH'ani  kin- 
dled on  Ihc  dark  blue  vault,  an  i  (me  by  one 
(]nenclicd  Ihe  sliirs.  The  silence  i.rii,,.  lond.  rested 
on  the  world.  'I'hcy  brealbed  heavily,  with  teeth 
.sti  in  terrible  rcs'ilulinn.  The  hour — the  ■noment 
— had  arrived.  Itchind  a  pro|eeling  ledge  the 
dusky  forms  of  three  or  four  inmilrcJ  Kulaws  un. 
didated  near  the  irround.  like  herds  of  bears  intent 
on  their  prey.  Tlicy  approached  the  h'dge.  and 
for  an  instant  lay  flat  on  their  faces,  iind  motion- 
less. Two  or  three  of  them  gently  raised  their 
heads  high  enough  to  look  over  n|K)ii  the  camp  of 
Ibe  whiles.  The  dav  bad  broken  over  half  Ihe 
lirmaincnt ;  the  rilles  of  the  traders  were  leveled 
ii-'iu  bcliiud  the  I'.iggag",  and  glistened  faintly  ; 
a  crack — a  wb''.op — a  sbi.ul — a  rout  1  The  scalp 
of  one  of  Ihe  peepers  over  the  ledge  bad  been  Ixired 
by  the  whistling  lead  lioiii  one  of  Ihe  the  rilles — 

:  Ihechief  warrior  had  fallen.  The  Indians  retreated 
to  their  camp,  and  the  uliites  retained  their  [Hisi- 
tion  ;  each  watcbiuir  Uu' other's  movemculs.  The 
position  of  the  traders  was  such  as  to  eommaud 
the  country  within  long  rille-shot  on  all  sides. — 

•■  The  Indians,  tbereliirc,  deeliucd  an  attack.  The 
iiuuiIk-is  of  their  foes,  and  perhaps  some  pruden- 
tial consideration  as  to  liavini<  an  advantagcon.i 
location,  prevenlcil  the  traders  from  making  an 
assault.  Well  would  it  have  been  lor  Ihcm  had 
Ihcy  conlinned  to  be  careful.  AUint  !•  o'clock,  the 
warlike  appearances  gave  place  lo  signs  of  peace. 
Thirty  or  liirly  unarmed  Indians,  dcnuiied  of 
clothing  and  of  paint,  came  towards  the  caiiip  of 
the  traders  singing,  and  dancing,  and  bearing  the 
Sacred  Calumci,  or  (■real  I'iiic  of  reaee.  A  chief 
bore  it  who  bad  a-ted  as  lieutenant  lollic  warrior 
that  bad  been  shot.  Ils  red  marble  IkiwI,  ils  stem 
broad  and  long,  and  carved  into  bierologlyphicH 
of  various  colors  and  sigiiilieclions,  and  adorned 
wilh  Icalbers  of  licaiitiliil  birds,  wi  soon  recog- 
ni/.cil  by  the  traders,  and  seemed  Ihe  bearer  and 
his  allendauts  a  n-ccption  iiilo  Ibeir  camp.  Itolli 
parties  seated  lliemsclves  in  a  great  circle;  the 
pipi'  was  lilleil  with  lohaceo  and  herbs  from  Ibe 
venerated  mediciiie  bag;  the  well-kiiiilled  coal 
was  rcvcrcnlly  placed  uism  Ihe  bowl  ;  its  sacred 
stem  was  then  liirned  towards  Ihe  bcavcnsto  invite 
Ihe  (ill  it  .Sic'il  lo  ihc  solemn  asscinbly,  and  to 
implore  bis  aid  ;  it  was  ilicn  tiuned  towards  the 
earth,  to  ivert  the  intlucnce  of  malicious  demons  ; 
it  wasllun  Ikpiiic  in  a  borizonlal  position,  till  it 
completed  a  circle,  lo  call  to  their  help  in  the  great 

:  smok",  the  bcnehcenl,  invisible  agents  which  live 
on  the  earth,  in  the  waters,  and  the  iijiper  air  :  the 
chief  look  two  whitlii,  and  blew  the  smoke  first  fo. 

i,  wards  licuvcn,  und  then  roiuid  U|wii  ilic  groiuid  : 


in  the  RocJ:>i  Mountains,  tlie  Oregon  Territory,  etc.. 


3r 


and  so  did  othrrii,  until  nil  had  inliaird  the  smoke  l| 
— llic  Imiilh  ol  Indian  tidrlity — and  blown  it  to  tlir 
earth  and  heaven  loadcil  wllh  the  pionsvows,  that 
art- supposed  to  niiiijile  with  it  while  il  eurlnanion;r 
tlielnni;»  near  the  heart.  'I"he  (Inef  then  rose  and 
said,  ill  the  Spanish  laiiifiiaire,  whieli  Ihe  I'aitaws 
east  of  the  inoniilaiiis  speak  well,  "  Ihat  he  was 
anxious  that  peaei^  niiijlit  he  restored  iietween  the 
parlies  ;  that  hiniseJCand  people  were  desirous  that 
the  Iriders  shoidd  rriuaiii  with  them:  and  that  it 
presents  were  made  to  him  to  the  small  ainoimt  ol 
>!!70ll.  no  ohjeelion  wonlrl  remain  to  Ihe  proposid 
proeee(lini;s  ul'  the  whit's;  hill  on  no  aeeoniil 
eonid  Ihev  enter  the  lOnlaw  eoinilrv  willioni  pay- 1, 
iiiir  Irihiile  in  some  I'orni.  'I'hi'V  '■' ere  in  the  I'ailaw  !' 
connlrv — the  Irihiile  was  due—  (liev  had  killed  ii 
Kntaw  eliiel'.  anil  the  IiIihiiI  ol'a  eliiet  was  line  ;  hut 
that  the  taller  eoiihl  he  eoinpnimised  liy  a  piompi 
I'onipliaiiee  wllh  his  proposilion  in  regard  In  the  j 
presents."  Till  ehiel  liader  was  e.vplieil  in  his  I 
reply.  "That  hi  had  eoiiir  inlo  Ihe  eoimtiy  to 
sell  griHiils,  not  ti){j;ive  Iheiii  awav  \  thai  no  trilinte 
eoidd  he  paid  to  him  or  to  inv  oilier  lailaw  ;  and 
llial  if  liifhlinij  were  a  desideralimi  willi  Ihe  ehiel 
and  his  people,  he  would  do  his  pari  lo  make  il 
siillieienlly  lively  to  h"  iiileresliii!^.''  'I'he  eoimeil 
liroke  lip  Inmiiltiioiisl y.  The  Indians  carried  Uiek 
Ihe  wnmpiim  hells  to  their  eaiiip  —held  war  eoiin- 
eds — and  whippid  and  ilaiiecd  aroimd  posts 
piinted  red,  and  reeoiml>  d  Ihiir  deeds  of  valor — 
iiid  showed  hi irh  in  air,  as  thev  hapeil  in  the' 
.'ren/.y  of  niimie  warfare,  the  store  of  sealps  Ihal 
Itarmshed  the  doors  of  the  family  lod'fes.  And 
aroinid  their  eamp-lires,  the  liillowin;;  niirlit,  wen 
seen  leatnres  dislorted  with  the  most  {.dia'liy 
wrath.  Indeed,  the  savages  appealed  resoK  d  to 
destroy  the  whites.  And  as  they  we .e  alile  liy 
their  sii|H'rior  mmihers  to  do  so,  i'  wasiiei'ined  ad- 
visalile  to  );et  heyond  their  reach  willi  all  piaeli- 
riihle  liasti'.  At  inidniirhl,  Iherefore,  when  the 
iires  had  smoiihlered  low,  Ihe  trailer.-:  saddled  in 
silent  iuisle — iMiiind  their  hales  upon  Iheir  pack- 
mules — and  departed  while  the  wolves  were  howl- 
inif  the  hour ,  and  sneeeded  by  the  dawn  of  day 
'H  reaehiiii;  a  ijiirirc  wlie  ,•  they  had  suspeeled  Ihe 
Indians — if  they  had  discovered  their  departure  in 
Beas.)ii  lo  reach  il— would  oppose  their  retreat. — 
On  reeonnoiteriiii.',  however,  il  was  Ii  I  clear; 
and  with  joy  did  lliey  eiiler  the  delile,  and  luliold 
from  its  eastern  opcMiiny^,  the  wide  cold  plains,  and 
the  sun  risiiiir,  red  and  cheerful,  on  the  dislani 
outline  of  the  moriiiii(r  sky.  V  few  days  alter.  Ihey 
leaehed  Ihe  poal — not  a  lillle  sjlad  that  their  llesh 
was  not  rotting  with  many  wii.j  had  hecii  less  siie- 
e.essfnl  than  themselves,  iii  esrapinji  death  at  the 
hands  of  Ihe  I'taws.  Thus  rniis  Ihe  tfile.  liut 
lor  the  insults,  i'ohl)eri,'S,  and  murders,  committed 
liy  this  and  oilier  liihes,  the  tradeiv  Henls  have 
soiisrht  opporl unities  lo  lake  well-measured  veil- 
(fcaiiee  ;  and  liherally  and  hravely  have  Ihey  oflen 

dealt  il  out.      Itiil  lli nseipicnce  seems  lo  have 

hieii  the  exeitinir  of  Ihe  hilli  rest  eiimily  lulween 
Ihe  parlies:  which  resiihs  in  a  Irille  more  ineon- 
venienee  lo  the  Inn'. is  than  to  Ihe  Indians.  For 
Ihe  latter,  to  jrratily  their  propensity  to  theft,  and 
their  hatred  to  the  liiriner,  make  an  iiniiual  levy 
u|Kin  the  eavy-yard  of  the  fortress,  which,  as  il  con- 
tains iiBiially  from  r-*!!  lo  UK)  horses,  mules,  &c., 
furnishes  to  the  men  of  the  loniahawk  a  very  eom- 
Ibrtublu  and  tmliatuctory  retribution  tor  tUc  iiihibi-  ^ 


lion  of  the  owners  of  Ihein  upon  their  iinmenmrial 
rlylil  to  roll  and  muriler,  in  niamier  and  form  um 
as  preserihed  hy  the  customs  of  their  race. 

'i'he  business  within  Ihe  walls  of  the  post,  is 
done  by  elerks  and  traders.  The  former  of  theoc 
are  more  commonly  yoiin;;  );eiilleuien  from  the 
cities  of  "heSl.iles:  their  duly  islo  keep  the  Iniokn 
of  the  eslahlishmenl.  The  iradeis  are  [fenerally 
seleeled  from  anionir  those  ilarinit  individuals  who 
have  traversed  Ihe  I'lairie  and  ^louiilain  Wilder- 
ness willi  sroods  or  trap-,  and  understand  the  best 
mode  ol  dialini;  wilh  lie  Indians.  Their  duty  is 
lo  wi  i;rh  siijT.ir,  coHie,  powder,  iS;e.,  in  a  ('omiie,. 
licnl  pml-ciip;  and  me.isiiiv  red  bai/e,  beads, 
ite.,  and  speak  the  several  Indiini  I  iinjil  iifes  that 
have  a  name  for  beaver  skins,  bnlValo  robes,  and 
money.  They  are  line  fellinvs  as  can  any  where 
be  found. 

Kort  William  is  owned  hv  Ihreehrolhers.  by  ihe 
name  of  HenI,  from  Si.  l/iiiis.  Two  of  iheiii 
were  at  the  post  when  we  arrived.  They  seemeil 
lo  he  llioroin;lily  iniliated  inlo  Indian  life  ;  dressed 
like  eliiefs— ill  moecasins  IhoroiiLdily  fjaruishiil 
with  heads  and  poieiipiiie  ipiills ;  in  Irowsers  of 
deer  skin,  wilh  lonir  IVinuos 'if  the  same  exteiidiu){ 
aloiiu  the  outer  se.iiii  from  the  ancle  .o  the  hip; 
in  the  splendid  liiiiilni!i-shirl  of  Ihe  seme  iiiato- 
rial,  wilh  sleeves  IVini;ed  on  the  elUiW  se.ini  from 
the  wrisi  lo  the  shoulder,  and  ornainenled  with 
lliriires  of  [Kirciipih.'  ipiills  of  various  colors,  and 
lealhern  fringe  around  the  lower  edL;eof  lluliody. 
.Vnd  ehiels  Ihey  were  in  Ihe  autlmnly  exercised 
in  Iheir  wild  and  lonely  fortress. 

A  Iradinir  esliiblishmenl  lo  be  known  iiiiisl  \v. 
seen.  A  solitary  alnide  of  men.  Me'ckiiiir  Wi'altli  in 
the  teeth  of  dan'^crand  hardship,  reariiii;  ils  lowers 
over  the  imcullivated  wastes  of  nature,  likeanold 
baronial  easlle  Ihat  has  willislood  the  wars  and  des. 
olalions  of  eentaries;  Indian  woiiien  Irippiiiff 
around  its  hutllciiients  in  their  filitteriii!;  moeeasiiiH 
and  loiiir  deer  skin  wrappers;  Iheir  children,  with 
most  perfect  forms,  and  the  canialion  of  the  Sa.iioii 
cheek  strujrulinir  tliroui;li  the  shadiiii;  of  the  In- 
dian, and  'hatteriii!;  now  liidii'ii,  and  now  Spanish 
or  Knijlish  ;  the  urave  owners  and  their  elerks  and 
traders,  seated  in  the  shade  of  the  piazza  smokiiiii,' 
the  liiiiifnalivc  pipe,  )iassiiiii  it  from  one  to  another, 
drauinii  ihe  precious  smoke  inlo  the  limits  hy  short 
hyslerieal  sucks  till  tilled,  and  then  ejeetinir  it 
throoirh  Ihe  no-ilrils  ;  or  it  may  ije,  seated  around 
their  rude  table,  spread  with  cotl'ee  or  tea,  jerked 
hutlalo  me.it,  and  bre.td  made  of  iinliolled  wheateil 
meal  from  Taos;  or, after eatinir,  laid  eomfoiiahly 
upon  their  palhls  of  straw  and  .Spanish  blankets, 
and  dreamliii;  lo  the  sweet  Holes  ofatlntr;  the 
■  (I  trappers  withered  with <'X|H)sure  to  the  leudiiif; 
elements, the  half-tallied  Indian,  and  hall  civilized 
.Mexican  servants,  sealed  on  the  (rroiind  around  a 
larirc  tin  pan  of  drv  meat,  and  a  lankard  of  water, 
their  only  rations,  rclalini;  ailvenliires  aliont  the 
shores  of  llndsiin's  Hay,  on  the  rivers  ("olumbia 
and  .MacUenzii',  in  the  (Jreal  I'lairie  Wilderness, 
and  eii'  iir  Ihe  snowy  liijjhl-  of  the  mountains; 
and  di  I  •  riiifT  sa(ie  opinions  alKiiil  the  destination 
of  eerlam  hands  of  hulValo  ;  of  Ihe  distance  lo  the 
Ulaekliiot  connlrv.  and  whether  my  wounded  inaii 
was  burl  as  badly  as  Bill  tin  mule  was,  when  the 
'•  meal  parly"  was  tired  iiiKin  by  the  I'limaiiehes; 
pri  sent  a  tolerable  idea  of  every  tliinir  within  its 
wallH,    And  it'  wv  I'dd,  tlie  opnin^  of  tliu  gutc« 


38 


Travels  in  (he  Great  Western  Prairies, 


iif  n  winter's  iiuiiiiiMi; — tlifriuilioiis  slldlnjr  in  and 
out  of  tlir  Iniliiiiis  wliosc  tents  slanil  iiround  tlie 
i'ort,  till  the  whole  area  is  tilled  six  leet  deep  willi 
their  \mvi  liiiiiTin'^  hiaek  loeks.  and  dark  watelil'iil 
rtushinn;  eyes  ;  and  traders  aiul  elerUs  hiisv  at  their 
work;  and  the  patrols  walking  the  haltli'nienls  ^ 
with  loaded  muskets;  and  the  (juirds  in  the 
bastions  standinir  with  hurninjj  niitelics  hv  the 
earrouades;  and  when  the  sun  sets,  the  Indians 
retirin'^f  ajrain  to  tlieir  eanip  outside,  to  talk  ov<'r 
their  newly  pun-h  ist'd  hlankels  and  heads,  and  to 
sinij  anil  drink  and  d.niee  ;  and  the  niijlit  sentinel 
on  the  I'ort  that  treads  his  wearv  w  iteli  awav;  we 
shall  present  a  tiilettd)le  vii'w  ol'  this  post  ii.  the 
season  of  hnsiness. 

It  was  e:isy  suunner  liiue  with   ni\n  and  beast  i! 
when  1  WIS  there.     The  line  davs  spi  lit  in  the  en- 
jovment  of  its  hospitalities  were  ot    [jreat  servl<'e 
to  ourselves,  and    in  reeruitiu';'  our  jaded  iiiiinv  i 
'1  tie   man,   too,    who  had  been  wounded  on   1. 
Santa  V^  trade,  reeovered  asiolli^■hinl;l3•. 

'I'ho  nuiliiH'crs,  on  tbi'  lldi  ol'  .liilv,  started  Tor;! 
Henfs  Fori,  on  the  I'latle  ;  and  invseH'.  with  tliree  ' 
sound  and  LTood  men.  and  one  wounded  and  bad', 
((111 ,  strode  our  auinials  and  look  lr.i',1  i  jr.iin  for; 
t!ie  mountains  and  (Jri'jrciu  'l'(Tritor\ .  I''  ve  miles 
aliove  Korl  William  we  e  ihie  to  Koi't  V,.  I'm-lil  i. 
It  is  eonstriieted  ot  adobiis.  and  eonsisis  ol'a  si  ries 
of  one-slors'  hiiiifrs  built  around  a  (|u:idr:uiLrle,  in 
the  ffcneral  style  of  thf.s''  at  Fort  Williani.  It 
lielon^fs  to  ii  company  ol'  Viiwriean  and  Mixieaii 
trappers,  who.  wearied  with  the  serviia',  have  re. 
tired  to  this  spot  to  spend  the  remainder  ol  their 
<lays  in  raisin;;  ;rrain,  ve;ret  ibles.  horses,  imdes, 
&,c.  for  the  various  trailiie;  eslahlisliinents  in 
llii'se  rei;ions.  And  as  the  .Arkansas,  some  lour 
miles  aliove  tli"  post,  ean  be  turned  from  its 
course  over  larj^e  Iraets  ol'  rieb  land,  these  indi. 
vidiials  miijiil  realize  Ih'  hi|ipiesl  results  from 
their  industry ; — for,  as  it  is  impossible,  from  the 
looseness  of  the  soil  and  the  seareity  of  rain,  to 
raise  any  thin;'  tbereahoul  v.illioiit  irrijfalion ; 
and,  as  this  is  the  only  spot,  for  a  loiiLr  dislaiiee 
lip  and  down  the  Arkansas,  wlii're  any  eonsider- 
ahlo  tracts  oi'  land  ean  be  wati  r,  lliey  I'ouldsupidy 
the  in-ii-K^t  with  these  artiides  without  any  fear  of 
ron  'c'ition. 

Liu  these,  like  the  resiiltsof  m my  li'inest  intcn- i 
tions.  are  wholly  crippled  hy  ;i  p  iiieily  of  money  and  , 
a  Kuper.dmndance  of  whisky.  The  |)roprietor.>  are 
poor,  and  when  thekei;-  isoti  tap.  die  im  away  their 
e.vistence  under  its  dani;eious  tascinations.  Hence 
it  is  that  thesi'  men.  destitute  of  the  meaiin  to  carry 
on!  their  ib'si[rns  in  regard  to  larmiiiiT,  have  found 
ihemselves  not  wholly  uni'iiiploved  in  reeliu'j;,  roll- 
inn;  and  voiiiiliiei-  ;  a  substitute  wliieh  many  indi- 
dividuals  of  undrliiable  taste  have  before  been 
known  to  jin  I'er.  'I'liey  h  ive,  lioweyer,  a  small 
stock,  oonsistinir  of  horses  and  mules,  cattle, 
sheep  and  jroats;  and  still  maintain  tluir  oriijinal 
intention  of  irriiratin;;  and  ciillivatinf;  the  land  in 
the  vicinity  of  their  eslahlisliincnt. 

\Ve  arrived  here  about  I  o'clock  in  the  after, 
noon  ;  and,  being  desirous  of  purchasing  a  imrse 
;'or  one  of  the  men,  and  uiaking  ■.«,\;.f  iartlicr  ur. 
rangements  for  \i.\  Jou;  i  'y-  i  eon.  'vili-d  to  Blop 
for  the  night.  At  tliie  place  I  found  ..  .<  nber  of 
independent  trappers,  nl.o,  aftel  lie  pii..;r-hunt. 
had  come  down  from  the  mountains,  taken  rooms 
free  of  reut,  etorcd  their  fur,  and  opened  a  trade  for ;, 


whisky.  One  skin,  valued  at  !$  t,  buys  in  that 
market  one  pint  of  whisky ;  no  more,  no  less  ; 
unless,  indeed,  some  theorists,  in  tlir  vanity  of 
their  dogmas,  may  consider  it  less,  when  plenl.- 
i'lilly  molliliial  with  water — a  process  that  in- 
creases ill  value,  as  the  lancet  falters  in  the  en- 
ei"gy  of  its  action.  For  the  seller  knows  that  if 
the  pare  liipiid  should  ,so  mollify  the  whisky  as  to 
delay  the  lio|)es  of  merriment  too  long,  another 
heaver-skin  will  be  taken  Irom  the  jolly  trap|)er"s 
pack,  and  another  <piaiitity  of  the  joytiil  mixlu.'e 
obtained.  And  thus  matters  will  proceed  until 
the  stores  of  furs,  the  hardships  of  the  hunt,  the 
toils  and  exposures  of  trapping,  the  icy  streams 
of  the  wilderness,  the  bloody  light,  foot  to  fiHit, 
with  the  knife  and  tomahawk,  and  the  long  days 
and  .ightsof  fhirsl  and  starvation,  ar"  satisfac. 
t(  '■.  cii'iia  led  in  the  dreamy  felicity  tli.il  whisky, 
n,  :    brandy  and  ijiccacuinlia,  if  pro|)erly  ad- 

.:  d,  are  iiccuslomei'  to  produce. 

Uneol  these  trappers  was  from  -Vcw-Ilaiipshire: 
he  Iiad  b;  en  eduealed  at  l)iUtnioii!li  ('iil!eg(>,  and 
was,  'dlogether.  on<'  of  the  most  .■em.i"'-.able  men  I 
eye^  knew.  A  splendid  gentliiiian.  a  liiiisheil  schol- 
ar, a  critic  or  F.uglishand  Hoiiian  lileratiire,  a  po. 
lilic. 'ii.  .a  irapper.  an  Indian  1  Mis  s!atiir>'  was 
something  more  than  six  feet  ;  his  shoulders  and 
eliesl  were  hiviad,  and  his  arms  and  lower  liiiihs 
well  formed  and  veiy  imiscniar-  His  l(;reliead 
was  high  and  expansive;  Causality,  Comparison. 
I'Jventuality.  and  all  thi^  perceplive  organs,  to  iise 
a  ])!irenological  description,  remarkably  large ; 
Locality  was,  however,  larger  than  any  other 
organ  in  the  I'miital  region  ;  llenevobnee.  Won- 
der, Ideality,  l^eereliyeness,  Destriietiveness  and 
.Adhesiveness,  Combat iveness,  .Self-Fsteem  and 
Hope  were  very  high.  Tbc^  remaining  org.ins 
were  low.  Ills  head  ivas  clotheil  with  hair  as 
black  as  jet,  "il  feu  in  k'ng'b,  smoothly  combed 
li.)  back.  He  w.is  dressed 
iii-ings  and  moccasins;  not 
I;  -  person.  On  my  first  in- 
aldivssed  me  with  the  still', 
■  C'  scions  of  liis  own  iiii- 
I  a  iiier  that  he  thought 
1  the  movement  of  every 
muscle  of  my  face  am.  ,  .  y  word  that  I  nitereil. 
-Vnd  when  any  thing  was  siid  of  political  events 
.1  ''•  '  States  or  l')nro|)e,  he  gave  silent  and  intense 
att  't..'!i  I  left  him  without  any  very  g.tod  im- 
p.  e  f  his  cir.ir.icler  ;  iiir  I  i' rd  imhici'd  him 
to  open  ..IS  compressed  momh  ImiI  oiiei',  and  then 
to  make  the  no  very  agreeable  inipiiries — ■'  When 
do  you  st.art  ?  "  and  ■•  What  ■•' .ile  do  you  take  .' '' 
\{  my  second  interview,  he  was  inure  familiar. 
Having  ascertained  tint  hi'  was  proud  of  his 
li~ari>ing,  I  approaela  d  liiiii  through  that  me- 
dium, ii  "penied  pleased  at  this  compliment  to 
his  supen.i!;l,y  over  thise  around  him,  and  at 
once  bee'er.,  'Msy  anil  talkative.  His  "  .Mina 
.M.ter"  ,,■  !■  -.ei-,  'cd  and  redcscrihed  ;  all  the 
fields  and  w.ilks  anil  rivulets,  the  beautitui  Con- 
nccticiit,  the  evergreen  primitive  ridges  lying 
along  its  banks,  which,  ia'  said,  '•  had  smiled  for 
a  thousand  ages  on  the  inarch  of  decay";  were 
successive  themes  of  his  gigantic  imagination. 
Ills  descriptions  wv]^'  minute  and  exipiisite.  lie 
s.tw  in  every  thing  all  that  Si'ience  sees,  together 
with  all  that  his  capaeiouH  Intellect,  instrncted 
and  imbued  with  the  wild  funcyiiigs  and  legends 


1  b.angii'g  (le 
in  a  dcer-SKin  '    i.  ;•.   . 
a  shred  of  e'        ,.    ■•: 
teryiew  wi'l;         .  . 
cohl   lorma;  ,., 
portance ;    a.  .,     le 
unobserved,   scrulio. 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc. 


f)f  liis  rare,  could  wo.  I  inquired  tlui  rrasoii  of 
his  Icaviiii;  ("ivili/od  lift;  for  ii  |inc;irious  livcliliood 
in  llir  wildorncss.  "  For  reasons  I'ound  in  (lie  nii- 
ture  of  my  nine,"  lie  replied.  "  The  Indicin's  eye 
euniiot  be  siilisfied  willi  it  description  of  thinirs, 
how  Ix'uutifiil  soever  iiiiiy  he  the  style,  or  the  har- 
monies of  verse  in  wliieli  it  is  eoiive^-ed.  For 
neither  the  p'Tiods  of  burniii);  eloipienee.  nor  the 
niifflily  find  beautiful  ereiilioiis  of  the  iinaf.-ini- 
tion,  ean  lUlliosoin  llie  treasures  and  reulilies  as 
tlieyhvo  in  their  own  native  niaffiiilie.inee  on  the 
eternal  nioiintaiiis.  and  in  the  secret,  untrodden 
vale. 

As  so<jn  as  you  tliriist  the  plouirhsli  ire  uiiiler 
tlie  earth,  it  teems  with  woiiiis  and  useless 
weeds.  It  increases  popiilalioii  to  an  unnatural 
extent — creates  ilu'  necessity  of  |«'iial  enact- 
ments—builds  the  jail erects  the  gallows 

spreads  over  the  hiiniaii  face  a  masli  of  dcreplion 
and   selfislmess — and  substitiiles  villaiiy,  love  of 
wealth,  a!id  power,  and  ttie  slaughter  ol   millions 
for  the  ffratitication  of  some  royal   cnt-throat,  in 
the  place  of  the  siu;,de. minded  honesty,  the  liospi- 
talit}-.  the  honor  and  the  purit)-orili<>  natural  state. 
Hence,  wherever  .Vjfricullure  appears,  tlu'  iiiercaso 
of  moral  and  physical   wretehe(lii(>ss   induces  the 
tlioiisaiids  of  necessities,   as  tir  v  are  termed,  (or 
al)ri(bj;ing  liumaii  liberty;    lor  fettering  down  the 
mind  to  the  principles  o(   ri',dit.  dciived.  not  IVoni 
nature,  but  froiu  a  restrained  and  1'  iced  condition 
o''  existence.      .\uil  hence  my  ra-  e.  with  mental 
and   physical   Inhits  as    free   as  ibe    waters  lliat 
(low    from    the    hills,    become   nstitV    under    the 
rules  of  eivili/.cd   life  ;    dwindle  to   tluir  graves 
under    the    control    of   laws,    and    eustoins,    and 
forms,   which    have    grown   out    of    the   endless 
vices,  and  the  fictitious   virtues  of  anotlicr  race, 
lied  men   olten   acipiire   and   love   the   .'^cii  uces. 
Hut  with  the  nature  which   the  (Jreat   Spirit   has 
given  them,  what  are  all   their   tnitlis   to   llicni  ' 
Would  an   Indian  ever  measure   the  liiglit   of  a 
mounlaiii  that  he  could  (!ii:'ib  '     No.  never.     The 
legends  of  his  irilic  tell  him  nothing  aliont  <pi  id- 
rants,  and  h;iso  lines  unil  angles.    Their  old  braves, 
however,  have  f/rages  watched  j'lnni  the  eliHs  the 
greiMl  lile  in  tlie  spring,  and  the  yellow  death   in 
the  autumr.,  of  tlicv  holy  forests.     Why  should  he 
ever  calculate  an  eclipse  ,'     lie  always  Uncw  such 
occurrence.';  to  lie  the  doings  ol   the  (Jrcat  .Spirit. 
Science,  it  is  true,  ean  tell  the  times  and  sc:isons 
of  their  coming;    but   the   Indian,   win  n  they  do 
occur,  looks  through   .Vature,  without  the  aii!  of 
Science,  up  to  itsCausc.     Of  what  use  is  a  Famar 
tr  him  .'      Ills  swift  canoe  bai.  the  green  emliow- 
ered  shores,  and  wi  ll-knowii  headlands,  to  guide 
its  course.      In  line,  what  arc  the  arts  of  IVacc, 
»if  War,  of  Agriculture,  or  any  thing  civili/ed,  to 
him  !     His  nature  and  its  elements,  like  tlii'  pine 
which  hIkkIows  its  wigwam,  are  too  mighty,   too 
(jraiid,  of  too  strong  a  fibre,  to  lorm  a  stock  on 
wliieli  to  engrail  the  rose  or  the  violet  of  |Kilisheil 
life.    No.     I  must  r.inge  the  hills  ;  I  must  always 
Im-  able  to  oiil-travel  my  horse  ;  I  must  iilwa3-s  he 
able  to  strip  my  own  wardrobe  t'roin  the  backs  of 
the  deer  and  buiralo  ;   and  to  feed  upon  their  rich 
loins ;  I  must  alwiiys  be  able  to  punish  my  enemy 
with  my  own  hand,  or  I  am  no  longer  an  Indian. 
And  if  I  ,un  nny  thing  else,  I  am  a  mere  imitation, 
nn  a;.!'."     The  enthusiasm  with  which  these  sen- 
timci)tB  were  uttered,  iinprtBHcd  lue  with  an  awe  1 


Imd  never  previously  felt  for  tiie  imliorrowed  dig- 
nity and  indepeiKlcnee  of  the  genuine,  original 
charaeter  of  the  .American  Indians.  Knlcclilcd, 
and  reduced  to  a  slate  of  dcpi  ndeiic"  by  dise.ise 
and  the  crovdiiig  hosts  of  ci  llizcd  n."i,  we  liiid 
among  tlicin  still,  too  much  of  their  nvn,  to  adopt 
the  cliaraet"r  of  another  race  ;  too  much  bravery 
to  feel  like  a  eoiirpiered  |>eoplc ;  and  a  preference 
of  aiiuihilalion  to  the  abandonment  of  that  course 
of  life  consecrated  by  a  thousand  generations  of 
venerated  .inci  stors. 

'I'liis  Indian  Ins  been  trapping  among  the 
Kocliy  Mouulaiiis  for  seventeen  years.  During 
that  time,  he  has  been  often  employed  as  an  e.v 
lircss  to  carry  news  (rom  one  trading-|K)sl  to  ano- 
tlicr, and  from  tin'  mountains  to  Missouri.  In 
these  journeys  he  has  been  remarkable  for  the  di- 
rectness ol  his  courses,  and  the  cxccediHgly  short 
spaces  of  time  leipiired  to  accomplish  them. — 
Mountains  that  neither  Indian  nor  white  man 
ilared  attempt  to  scale,  if  opposing  bis  rightdine 
trick,  be  has  crossed.  .\i!,'rv  streams,  heavy 
and  cold  from  the  snows,  and  plimgiiig  and  roar- 
ing among  the  girding  caverns  of  the  hills,  he 
has  swim  ;  he  has  met  the  tempest  as  it  groaned 
over  ..ic  ]ilains.  .md  hung  upon  the  Irembrmg 
towers  of  the  everlasting  hills  ;  and  without  a 
horse,  or  even  a  dog,  traversed  olten  the  terrible 
aiiil  boiindliss  wastes  of  nioinitaius,  and  plains ; 
and  desert  v.dlevs.  through  whiidi  I  Mil  tr.iveiiiig  : 
and  the  ruder  the  blast,  the  larger  the  bolts,  and 
the  loudi'r  the  pcils  of  the  dreadlul  tempest,  wli.n 
tb.''.,irtli  and  the  sky  s( em  joined  by  a  moving 
"■.it.uact  of  tlood  and  tlame  driven  by  the  wind, 
the  more  was  it  like  himself  a  trie,  unuiarred 
manil'estatiou  of  the  sublime  energies  of  .Nature. 
He  says  that  he  never  intinds  again  to  visit  the 
.Stales,  or  any  other  part  of  the  rartli  •'  which  has 
been  torn  and  spoiled  hy  the  si  ivcs  of  agricnl- 
ture."  "  I  shall  live."  says  he,  "  and  die  in  the 
wilderi'ess."  .\nd  assuredly  he  slionid  thus  live 
and  die.  The  music  of  the  nisliing  waters  tboiild 
be  his  reipiiem,  and  the  (Ireal  Wilderness  bis 
tomb. 

Another  of  these  peculi.ir  men  was  .m  Iroipmis 
from  Canada  ;  a  stout,  old  man,  with  a  flat  no.fc, 
broad  face,  small    twinkling    black   eyes,  a  sw.ir- 
tliy,  dirty  eninplexion.  a  mouth  that  laughed  from 
car  to    ear.  and  always    rcl  iliiig    soiik'  wonil'rliil 
tale  of  a  (rapper's  life.      He  was  paiticnlarly  loud 
of  describing    his    escapes   (rom    (Iw  Sioux,    and 
Itlaekfeel.    while   in   the  scrvici' of  (lie  Hudson's 
Hay  <'oni|iauy.     On    one    eccasiiai    he  had  Bejia- 
rated  from  his  fellow-tr.iiipi  .s  and  traveled  lar  up 
,  the  .Missouri    into  a  |)articularly  beautiful    valley. 
It  was  the  verv  spot  he  had  sought  in  all  his  wan- 
diriiigs,  for  a  retreat  lor  liim.-ielf  and  his  sipiaw  to 
'  live   in    till  they  sliould   die.      It  appeared  I.)  him 
like  the   gatcwiiy  to  the  Isles  of  the  IMest.     The 
lower    mountaiiis    were    covered  with   (all  pines  ; 
:  and  alMive  and  aroimil,  e\.-,pt    in  the  east,   where 
the  morning  sun  sent  in  bis  rays,  the  bright  glit- 
tering ridges  rose  high  against  tin   sky,  deidtcd  in 
the  garniture  of  perpetual  frosts.   .Mougthe  valley 
\  lay  a  clear,    pure    lake,    ill    the    centre  of  which 
'  plaveil  a  number  of  tduntains,  that    threw    their 
'  waiers  many  feet    aliove  its  surliice.  and  sending 
t  tiny  waves    rip])liiig  away   to   the   pebbly  shores, 
I  miide  the  monntaiiiK  and  groves  that  were  rctleet- 
|i  cd  from  its  rich  bosom  eecm  to  leap  uiid  clap 


40 


Travels  in  the  Great  Wester  a  Pnuries, 


their  liamis  for  joy,  at  the  sacred  quiet  that  reigned 
aiiionjj  thciii. 

The   old    liuhan   pitched  his  skin  tent  on   Iho 
shore,  in  a  little    copse    of   hcinloek,  and    sit  his 
traps.     Havinir    done    this,  he   cxplort^d  carefully 
every  part  of  the  nfi}rhl><)rinir  mountains  ior  in. 
};ress   and   ejjress,  "  sii^ns,"  &e.     His  oliject    in 
this  was  toaseerliiiu  if  the  valley  were  Imiuenled 
hy  Innnan  heinpfs  ;  and  if  there  were  places  of  es. 
cape,  if   it    should   h(^   enlen-d    hy  hostile  persons 
tliroui;h  the  pass  that  led  hiiusilf  to  il.     lie  lound 
no  other  pass,  e.\e(  j>t    one    lor   the   waters  of   the 
lake  throuirh  a  dn  p  eliasin  of  the  niotnilain  ;  and 
this  was  sueli  thai  no  one  eould  diseend  il  alive  lo 
the  lower  valleys.    l''or  as  he  waded  anil  swam  hy  ; 
turns  ilinvn  its  still  waters,   he  soon  louinl  hiinseif 
drawn  hy  an  inereasinr;  eurnnl,  wliieh  sulliiicnt- 
ly  indicated  lo   him   thr    cause   of   the  deep  roar 
that  resounded  I'rom  the  caverns  lieyond.     lie  ae- 
cordini^'ly    made    the    shore,   ami    elind>ed   alonij 
anionjf  the  projeetiiiir  rocks   till  he  overlooked  an  ! 
uhyss  of  fallen  rocks,  into  which  Ihe  stre.im  poured 
and    foamed    and   was  losi    in  Ihe  mist.     He  re. 
turned  to   his  eamji  satisliid.     He  had  lound  an 
undiscovered  valley,  stored  with  he;iviraml  troul. 
and    grasses    lor   his   horses,  where  he  could  trap 
and  tlsh  and  dream  awhde  in  safely.      And  every  ■ 
morning,  lor  three  deliirliilid  weiks,  did  he  draw  I 
the  ijeaver   from   the   deep  pools  mto  which  they  | 
had    pluiiired    when    the    ipiick    trap    liad  seized  ; 
them  ;  anil  strinniici,  them   two  and  two  tosjcllicr  i 
over  his  pack-horse,  Ixae  them  to  his  camp  ;  and 


Huch  Btuir,  lie  said  he  had  l>eeii  ao  lonaf  away  from 
j  civilization  that  he  could  never  ajjain  enjoy  it. 
'  As  Ion;;  as  he  could  jret  friHid  huftalo  cows  to  oat, 
the  tine  water  of  the  snowy  hills  to  drink,  and 
(rood  huckskins  to  wear,  he  was  satisfied.  'I'hc 
mountaineers  were  free ;  he  could  go  and  come 
when  he  chose,  with  oidy  his  own  will  for  l.iw. 
!My  inlercoursc  with  him.  however,  led  mc  after- 
wards lo  assign  another  cansi'  for  his  ahandon- 
mini  of  home.  There  were  times  when  we  were 
encamped  at  niirht  on  the  cold  mountains  alK)ut 
a  hlazinir  fire,  that  he  related  anecdotes  of  his 
younirer  days  with  an  inlensily  of  iVcliufr  which 
discovered  that  a  deep  fountain  of  emolioii  was 
still  0))en  in  his  lx)si)m,  never  to  he  sealed  till  he 
shuidiers  under  the  sands  of  the  desert. 

We  pas-si'd  the  nijrht  of  the  1 1  III  of  .(uly  at  tlie 
I'uilila  One  of  my  companions  who  had,  jjre. 
viously  to  the  division  of  my  company,  used 
horses  helonfjim^r  to  an  individual  who  left  ns  for 
Santa  Fc,  and  tlu'  excellent  .Mr.  Blair,  were 
without  ridiiii;  animals.  It  hecanie,  therefore,  an 
'■(lit  for  them  lo  purehasi.'  here;  and  Ihe  more 
.  IS  there  would  he  no  other  opportunity  to  do 
so  for  some  hundreds  of  miles.  Hut  tliesi^  indi- 
viduals had  no  money  nor  froi)ds  that  the  owners 
of  tlic  liorsi'S  would  receive  hi  c.\cliaii)ri'.  They 
wanted  clothing  or  cash.  And  as  1  had  a  sur- 
plus quantity  of  linen,  I  hc};an  to  harjfain  for  one 
of  Ihe  animals.  The  first  price  charijed  was  enor- 
mous. A  little  lianlerinjr,  liowevcr,  brought  the 
o\vnir  lo  his  proper  senses;  and    the   articles   of 


with   his   lonn   side-kiiife  stripped  otF  the  skins  of  |i  payment    were    overhauled.     In    doing   this,  my 


fur,  pinned  them  lo  the  ground  lo  dry,  and  in  his 
camp  kettle  cooked  the  much  prized  tails  for  his 
midday  repast.  "  Was  it  not  aline  limit  that  V 
asked  he,  '•  heaver  as  Ihiek  as  nmsipiitoes,  trout 
us  plenty  as  water."  '•  Hut  the  ungnilly  Ulack- 
feetl"  The  sun  liad  thrown  a  lew  hrlght  rays 
n|X)n  Ihe  rim  of  the  eastern  lirmamenl,  wlien  the 
Hlackfeet  war-whoop  rang  iiround  his  teni — a 
direful  '•  whoop-ah  hooh."  ending  willi  a  yell, 
piercing  harsh  and  shrill,  through  the  clenched 
teeth.  He  h  id  tml  one  means  of  escape — the 
lake.  Into  it  lie  plunged  heneatli  a  shower  of 
poisoned  arrows — plunged  deeply-  -and  swiim  un- 
der while  he  could  endure  the  ahsenee  of  air  ;  he 
rose  ;  !ie  was  in  the  midst  of  his  foes  swimming 
and  shouting  around  him  ;  down  again  ;  up  to 
breathe  ;  and  on  he  swam  with  king  and  power- 
ful sweeps.  Tne  pursuit  was  long  ;  hut  at  last 
our  man  entered  the  chasm  he  had  explored, 
plunged  along  Ihe  cascade  as  near  as  he  dared, 
clung  lo  a  shrub  that  grew  from  the  crevice  of  the 
rock,  and  lay  under  water  for  the  apjiroach  of  his 
pursuers.  (Jn  they  came,  they  p;iisid,  they  shrieked 
and  plunged  for  ever  into  the  abyss  of  mist 


whole  wardrobe  was  ex|M)scd,  and  the  vender  of 
horses  breame  extremelj'  enamored  of  my  dress 
coal,  the  only  one  remaining  not  out  at  theclliows. 
This  he  dell  rniined  to  have.  I  assured  liini  il 
was  impo.ssible  for  me  to  part  with  it ;  the  only 
one  I  |K)ssesscd.  Hut  he  with  quite  as  much  cool- 
ness, assured  me  that  it  would  then  lie  impossible 
for  him  to  part  with  his  horse.  These  two  impos- 
sibilitics  having  met,  all  prospects  of  a  trade  wcrt' 
sus|)ended,  tilt  one  or  the  other  of  them  should 
yield.  After  a  little,  the  idea  of  walking  cast 
such  evident  dissatisfaction  over  the  countenances 
of  my  friends,  that  the  coat  was  yielded,  and  then 
the  pants  and  overoat,  and  all  my  shirts  savo 
four,  and  various  other  articles  to  Ihe  value  of 
three  such  animals  in  the  .States.  The  horse  was 
then  transferred  to  our  keeping.  .\nd  such  a 
liorse  1  The  biography  of  her  mischief,  would  it 
not  fill  a  volume  '  And  tiiat  of  the  vexations 
arising  therefrom  to  us  poor  mortals — would  it  not 
fill  two  volumes  of  '•  Pencilings  hy  thi'  Way,' 
who.-ic  oidy  deficiency  would  lie  the  want  of  a  love 
incident  '     Another   horse   was   still  necessary  ; 


but  in  this,  as  the  other  case,  a  coat  was  a  '  sine 

these!   veteran  trappers   i  qua  nun.'     And  theri;  being  no  other  article  of 

a    blaeksmilh  by    trade,:   the  kind  to  dis|K>s<M>f  among  us,  no  bargain  could 

He  left  his  native  .State  about  |;  be  made.     The  night  euine  on  amidst  these  our 

ittle  jireparations.  The  owners  of  the  horses 
mil  mules  iMlonging  to  El  i'uebla,  drove  their 
inimals  into  the  court  or  quadrangle,  around 
whieh  their  houses  were  built.  We  gathered  our 
goods  and  chattels  into  a  pile,  in  u  corner  of  the 


Another    individual 
was    my    guide,    Kelly 
from    Kentucky 

twelve  years  ago,  and  enlircd  the  si'rviee  of  thi 
America  Fur  Company.     Since  that  time,  he  has 
been  in  the  .Stales  hut  once,  and  that  for  a  few 
weeks  only.      In   bis  opinion,  every  thing  was  an 
dull  and   tiresome  that  lie  was  compelled  lo  flee 


to  the  mountains  again.  The  food,  too,  had  well  I  most  comfortable  rtMun  we  could  obtain,  and  so 
nigh  killed  him  ;  "The  villainous  pies  and  cake,  '  arranged  our  blankets  and  bodies,  that  it  would  be 
bacon  and  beef,  and  Ihe  nicknaeks  that  one  is  i  diirieult  for  any  one  to  make  depredations  U|>on 
obliged  to  eal  among  cousins,  would  destroy  the  j  them  during  the  night,  without  awaking  us.  And 
constitution  o(  ua  ostricli,''    And  if  ho  <;oulil  eat  ij  after  cgnvvrniiig  witlj  my  DwttnoutU  friend  con- 


mil  away  from 

main  enjoy   it. 

'o  cowH  (o  oat, 

Id  drink,  and 

iiliHiicd.     Tlio 

i;o   un<l   ooiui! 

will   for  law. 

,  lid  nir  iiftcr- 

r  Ills  ali;indon- 

wliin  \vr  wcri! 

jiiiilaiiis  alMxit 

ii'f.dotts  ol   IiIh 

liclinf;  wliicli 

I   rniotion  was 

scaled  till  lie 

sert. 

of  .Fnly  at  the 
wlio  hud,  |)r«. 
onipany,  uwd 
«lio  li'lt  us  for 
r.  lilair,  were 
llirn  fori',  un 
;  and  I  lie  nioro 
jortnnity  to  do 
{ut  these  iiidi- 
liat  (he  owners 
;han(;e.  Thoy 
as  1  had  a  siir- 
)ar|faiu  for  one 
irged  was  enor- 
ir,  broiijrlit  the 
the  articles  of 
loin};  this,  my 
■  e  vender  of 
Id  of  my  drcHH 
It  at  the  cll)owH. 
ap.sured  liini  it 
til  it ;  the  only 
■  us  niiicli  cool- 
n  he  iinpossihle 
use  two  ini|K)S- 
of  a  trade  wore 
f  them  should 
f  wulkiii}(  cast 
le  I'ountenances 
elded,  and  then 
iiy  shins   suvo 

0  the  value  of 
'l"he  horse  wus 

And  such  a 
scliief,  would  it 
F  the  vexations 
< — would  it  not 
liy  the  Way,' 
want  of  a  love 
itill  necessary  ; 
>ut  was  a  '  sine 
itlicr  article  of 

1  haifruin  could 
nidsl  these  our 

of  the  horses 
)la,  drove  their 
•an(;lc,  around 
c  gathered  our 
.  corner  of  the 
obtain,  and  so 
hat  it  would  be 
redations  ujHjn 
akinj;  us.  And 
uth  irieud  con- 


in  the  Rocky  Mounl'.aiiis,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc 


41 


ci-rnin'j  the  niountainnus  roiuitry  through  which 
we  were  to  travel,  and  the  incidents  of  frustinf; 
and  biiltle  lliut  hafl  befallen  him  durinij  his  trap. 
liiniT  cveursions,  we  rclircd  lo  our  couches.. 

At  8  o'clock  on  Ihc  l;!lh,  we  were  hnrnessed 
and  on  route  ugain  lor  the  mountains.  I'l  was  a 
tine  mellow  morning.  The  snowy  peak  s  of  the 
W'alfano  mountains,  170  miles  lo  the  southwest, 
rose  hiixh  un<l  clear  in  view.  The  almo-^pliere 
was  bland  like  that  ol  the  Indian  simimcr  in  .V(  w 
Krigland.  Five  miles  travel  brou'^bt  us  lo  the 
cue  inipinent  of  Kelly's  servant,  wiio  had  Ihcm 
Hcnl  abroad  tin:  night  berore  lo  (ind  gran.<  for  his 
horses.  Here  atiolber  horse  was  purchased  of  .t 
Wexiean,  who  had  followed  us  from  I'liebla.  Ibit 
on  adjiisling  our  bagg.igi',  it  appeared  thai  Ihri  e 
animals  witc  reqiiiied  lor  Iransporling  it  over  the 
broken  connlrv  which  lay  Inloie  us.  Messrs. 
Hlair  and  Wood  would,  lliercriire,  still  have  but  a 
single  saddle-hoise  lor  their  joint  use.  This  wasi!  general  dearth 
fell  lo  be  a  great  misrortiine,   lH)tli  on   account  of  |j  a  gravish   blue. 


I  art.  Embattlcmcnts  raised  by  the  ccmniotions  of 
j  warring  clcmeiiis — by  Ihc  storms  (hut  have  galli- 
I  cred  anil  marshalled  Ihcir  armies  on  tin;  higlits  in 
I  view,  and  poured  iheir  desolating  power  over 
,  these  devoted  plains  1 

I      The  Arkansas  smce  we  loft  Foit  William  had 
I  preserved  a  medium  width  of  a  rpiarlcr  of  a  mile, 
;  the  water  still  turbid  ;  its  general  i-oursc  cast  south- 
east;  sf)il  on    cither  sill;   as    far  as  the    rye  could 
reach,  light  sand,  and  clayey  loam,  almost  dcati- 
Illtc  of  vegelalion. 

On  the  l.')lh  Iraveleil  aUiut  18  miles  overa  s/iil 

!  so  light  Ibat  our  animals  sunk  over  Iheir   lellocks 

I  at  every  slep.      During  Ihc  Ibrenoon  we  kept  along 

j  the    lH)llom    lands   of  llie   river.     An   oecasioual 

willow  or  col  Ion-wood  tree,  ragged  and  gn:y  with 

j  age,  lira  willow  bush  trembling,  it  almost  si'cmcd, 

I  at  ihc    tale  of  desolation    thai  the    winds   told   in 

I  passing,  were  the  only    relieving    features  of  Ihc 

The  usual  color  of   Ihc  soil  was 

At  \'i  o'clock   we  slopped  on  a 


the  hardships  of  .such  a  journey  on  Iih)I,  as  well  ii  plat  of  low  ground  which  the  waters  of  Ihc  river 
au  the  delay  it  would  necessarily  cause  hi  the  Ij  moistened  by  filtration  Ihrougli  the  sand,  and 
proseculion  of  it.  Hut  these  men  felt  no  such  L  baited  our  horses.  Here  were  forty  or  fifty  de- 
obstacle  lo  be  insurmoimtable,  and  declared  that  \'  crepidold  willows,  so  [Kjor  and  shriveled  thai  one 
while  the  plain  and  the  mountains  were  before  |l  felt,  after  en|oyiiig  their  shade  in  the  heal  of  that 
them,  and  they  could  walk,  I  hey  would  conquer  il  siillrv  day,  like  bestowing  alms  upon  them.  At 
every  dilViculty  that  lay  between  them  and  j  1  "2  o'clock  we  mounled  and  struck  out  across  Ibn 
( )regon.  ,\ftcr  we  h;id  eaten,  Kelly's  horses  were  ';  plain  to  avoid  a  sontliward  bend  in  the  river  of  30 
rigged,  and  we  moved  on  four  or  five  miles  up  the  "  miles  in  length.  Near  the  centre  of  Ibis  Ix'nd  is 
liver,  where  we  halted  for  ihe  niglil.  Our  pro.  jthe  monlli  of  the  river  FontcquelKinir,  which  Ihc 
visions   consisted   of  a   small  quantity  of  wheat  jl  trappers  who  have  traversed  it  for  beaver  say  rises 


meal,  a  little  salt  and  jicppcr,  and  a  few  pounds  i 
of  sugar  and  cofl'cc.  I''i)r  meat  we  di'pended  on  | 
our  rifles.  Hut  as  no  game  appeared  during  the  ' 
day,  we  spent  Ihe  evening  in  atlempting  to  take  ' 
cat-fish  from  the  Arkansas,  line  weighing  a 
])Oun(l,  after  niiicb  practical  angling,  was  caught —  1 
a  small  consolation  surely  to  the  keen  uppclilesof 
seven  men.  Hut  lliis,  and  porridge  made  of  wlicit 


in  .iaincs's  Peak  80  miles  to  the  northwest  by  north. 
V>'p.  came  ui)on  Ihe  banks  of  this  stream  at  sun. 
set.  Kelly  had  informed  nstluit  we  might  e.vpcct 
lo  find  deer  in  the  groves  which  border  its  bankp. 
.\nd.  like  a  true  hunter,  as  soon  as  we  hailed  at 
the  place  of  encampment,  he  sought  them  before 
they  should  lie.ar  or  scent  us.  He  traver.sed  the 
groves,  however,   in     ain.     The   beautiful  inno. 


meal  and  water,  constiiiited  our  snpiK'r  that  night,     cents  had,  as  it  afterwards  appeared,    been  lately 

hunted  by  a  parly  of  Delaware  trappers;  and  in 
consideration  of  the  ill  usage  received  from  these 
gentlemen  in  red.  had  forsaken  their  old  retreat 
for  a  less  desirable  but  .safer  one  among  the  distant 
hills  in  the  north.  .So  that  our  e.xpectutiong  of 
iranic  and  meat  subsided  in  a  snjiper  of  '  tole' — 
plain  water  porridge.  .\s  our  appetites  were  keen, 
it  relished  well  with  all.  except  the  Mexican  ser- 
vant, who  declared  upon  his  veracity  that  '  tolc 
was  no  biieno.'  Our  guiiie  was.  if  possible,  as 
happy  a'  our  evening  fire  as  .some  one  else  was 
whcii  he  •  shouldered  his  crutch  and  told  how 
batllcs  were  won  ;"  and  very  much  for  the  same, 
reasons.  For,  (hiring  Ihe  afternoon's  tramp,  much 
of  his  old  hunting  ground  had  loomed  insight. — 
Pikes  and  James's  peaks  showed  their  bald,  cold, 
shining  heads  as  the  sim  wl.  And  the  mniuitaiiin 
on  each  side  of  the  upper  river  began  to  show  the 
irregularities  of  their  surfaces,  f'o  that  as  we  rodo 
along  ga/.ing  nt  these  stupendous  piles  of  rocks 
and  earth  and  ice.  be  would  often  direct  his  atten- 
lion  to  the  outlines  of  chasms,  faintly  traced  on  the 
shadings  of  the  clitTs,  Ihrongh  which  various 
streams  on  which  he  had  trapped,  tumbled  into  the 
plains.  I  Was  particularly  intcrcHted  in  his  ac. 
count  of  Rio  Wulfano,  a  branch  of  tlic  .Arkatisw 
on  the  ;\Ioxicttn  side  ;  the  mouth  of  which  is  lli 
nvlof  Iwlow  that  ol'  the   Fontcqnobouir.    It  has 


ml  brcakfa.st  next  moming. 
.luly  l.'l,  l.'i  miles  along  the  banks  of  the  Ar- 
kansas;  the  soil  composed  of  siiid  slightly  inter- 
mixed with  clay,  too  limse  to  rela>u  moisture,  and 
too  little  impregnated  with  the  niilritive  salts  lo 
produce  any  Ihnig  save  a  sjiarsc  and  stinted 
growth  of  bunch  grass  and  sun-flowers.  Occa. 
iiional  blufl's  of  sand  and  limestone  bordered  the 
valley  of  Ihe  stream.  In  the  alternoon  the  ran  ire 
of  low  mountains  that  lie  at  Ihc  eastern  base  of 
the  Ureal  rordiUeras  and  Long's  ranges  became 
visible  ;  and  even  these,  though  pigmies  in  the 
mountain  race,  were,  in  inid-sninmer.  partially 
covered  wilh  snow.     Pike's  peak   in   tin:  south- 

west,  and  .luines's  peak  in  the  norlliwest,  at  sun- 
set  showed  their  hoary  heads    above   the    clouds 

which  hung  around  them. 

On   Ihe    Mill,  made  "Jll    miles.      Kelly  relieved 

his  servant  by  surrendering  to  him  bis  riding  horse 

for  short  distauecs  ;  and  others  relieved  Hlair  .ind 

Wood  in  a  similar  manner.   'I'lie  face  of  the  plain 

Iwcaiue  more  broken  as  we  a])proached  Ihe  moun- 
tains.    The   waters   descending    from  the  lower 

hills,  have  cut  what  was  once  a  plain  into  isolated 

bluff's  300  or  400  feet  in  higlil   surmounted   and 

surrounded  with  eolmnnar  and  pyramidal  rocks. 

la  the  dislnnce  they  resemble  immenso  fortreBses, 

with  towers  and  bastintis  an  skillfully  arranged  as  „ 

lUeycoiUd  have  been  by  the  Iwnt  (iugjcutions  ofX  iwo  jirmoipal  UanohM.    '4'ha  ono  orJitKWW  ii» 


*2 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


Pike's  pTiilt,  70  or  80  miles  in  the  Koutli ;  tlio  otlior 
riKcs  far  in  tlic  west  amonj;  the  Eutaw  nuiiintain!!, 
and  has  a  course  of  about  200  miles,  nearly  paral- 
lei  willi  the  Arkansas. 

Vi'c  traveled  28  miles  on  the  IGth  over  broken 
barren  liillH  sparsely  covered  with  shrub  cedars  and 
pines.  'I'he  foliage  of  llies<>  trees  is  a  very  dark 
treen.  'I'hey  cover,  more  or  less,  all  the  low  hills 
that  lie  alonfT  the  roots  of  the  iiioiuiIainH  from  the 
Arkansas  north  to  the  .'Missdiui.  Ilencc  the  nanu; 
"  FJlack  Hills"  is  piven  lo  that  |Mirtion  of  them 
whieh  lie  between  the  Swuctwater  and  the  nioiilh 
of  the  Little  Mis.souri.  The  soil  of  our  track  to. 
day  was  a.  (;ray  barren  loam,  gravel  knolls,  and 
blurt's  of  sand  and  limestone. 

Alx)ul  1  o'clock,  P.  M.,  wc  met  an  miheard  of 
annoyance,  ^\'e  were  crossing  a  small  plain  of  red 
sand,  (fazinj;  at  the  mountains  as  they  opened  th<ir 
outlines  of  rock  and  .^now,  when,  in  an  instant,  we 
were  enveloped  in.a  cloud  of  Hyinj;  a  nts  with  (,'ray. 
ish  winpfsand  dark  bodies.  'I'hey  lit  upon  our  horses' 
heads,  necks,  and  shoulders,  in  such  lunubers  as 
to  cover  them  as  bees  do  tlu!  sides  of  a  hive  when 
alwut  to  swarm.  They  ficw  aroimd  our  own  heads 
too,  and  covered  our  hats  and  faces.  t)ur  eyes 
seemed  special  objects  of  their  attention.  \\'e 
tried  to  wipe  them  ofT;  hut  while  the  band  was 
passing  from  one  side  of  the  face  to  the  other,  the 
part  that  was  left  bare  was  instantly  covered  as 
thickly  as  before  with  these  creeping,  hovering, 
nauseous  insects.  Our  animals  were  so  nnieh  an- 
noyed by  their  jjcrtinacily,  that  they  sto])jied  in 
their  tracks;  and  (indiug  it  impossible  to  urge 
them  along,  guide  them  and  keej)  our  faces  clear 
of  the  insects  at  the  same  time,  we  dismounted 
and  led  them.  Having  by  this  means  the  free  use 
of  our  hands  and  feet,  we  were  able  in  tlie  course 
of  half  an  hoiu  to  pasr  the  infested  sands,  and  once 
more  sih:  and  breathe  like  (Christians. 

We  dined  at  the  mouth  of  Kelly's  ("reek,  another 
stream  that  has  its  sourei:  in  .lumes's  peak.  l'"n- 
eamped  at  the  mouth  of  ( (ukley's  ereeU.  auolher 
branch  of  the  Arkansas.  It  rises  in  the  hills  llial  lie 
35  miles  to  the  north,  llisaclear,  cool  little  brook, 
with  a  pebbly  Iwttom,  and  banks  clothed  with  shrub 
cedars  and  pines.  Wc  had  a  pleasant  evening  here, 
a  cloudless  sky,  a  cold  breeze  from  the  snow-elad 
mountains,  a  blazing  cedar-wood  fire,  a  song  from 
oiu'  merry  Joe,  a  dish  of  'tole'  and  a  due  couch  of 
Hand.  Uho  wants  more  comforts  tlian  wc  en- 
joyed ?  My  debilitated  system  had  begun  to  thrive 
mider  the  bracing  influence  of  the  mountain  air; 
my  companions  were  well  and  liappy ;  our  horses 
uTid  mules  were  grazing  u|>on  a  plat  of  rich  grass ; 
we  were  almost  within  touch  of  those  stupendous 
ridges  of  rock  and  snow  which  stay  or  send  forth 
the  tempest  in  its  course,  and  gather  in  their  rug. 
gcd  embrace  the  noblest  rivers  of  the  world. 

July  17.  Wc  made  20  miles  to.day  among  the 
deep  gullies  and  natural  fortresses  of  this  great 
gateway  to  the  mountains.  All  aromid  gave  evi. 
dencc  that  the  agents  of  nature  have  struggled 
here  in  their  mightiest  wrath,  not  the  volcano, 
but  the  floods  of  ages.  Ravines  hundreds  of  feet 
in  depth  ;  vast  insular  mounds  of  earth  towering 
in  all  directions,  sometimes  sunnoiinted  by  frag- 
ments of  mountains ;  at  others  with  stratified  rocks; 
the  whole  range  of  vision  was  a  flowcrless,  blade, 
lees  desolation  !  Our  encampment  for  the  night 
was  at  the  mouth  of  Wood's  creek,  5  miles  from 


the  debouchure  of  the  Arkansas  from  the  moun- 
tains. The  ridges  on  the  south  of  the  river,  as 
viewed  from  this  place,  prcaenled  an  embankment 
of  congregated  hUls,  piled  one  aliovc  another  to  the 
region  of  snow,  and  scored  into  deep  and  irregular 
chasms,  frowning  precipice  s,  tottering  rocks,  and 
black  glistening  strata,  whose  recent  fractures  in- 
dicated that  they  were  continually  sending  upon 
the  humble  hills  IkIow  weighty  testimony  of  their 
own  superior  bight  and  might.  Nothmg  could 
be  more  perfeetly  wild.  The  sunuuils  were 
capped  with  ice.  The  ravines  which  radiated 
from  their  aj)iees  were  /illrd  with  snow  far  (jown 
their  course;  and  so  utterly  rough  was  the  whole 
mass,  that  there  did  not  apjicarto  be  afoot  of  plain 
surface  upon  it.     Eternal,  sublime  confusion  I 

This  range  runs  down  the  Arkansas,  bearing  m 
little  south  of  a  parallel  with  it,  the  distance  of 
alHHil  .'')(1  miles,  and  then  turning  southward  Inars 
olV  to  Taos  ai.d  .Santa  Fe.  Hack  of  this  ri<l^r(  t'> 
lh(!  westward,  and  i;oiiiieclC(l  with  it,  there  is  said 
to  b<>  a  viry  extensive  tract  of  mountains  which 
embrace  the  sources  ol  the  liio  liravo  del  Norte, 
the  Wolfano,  and  other  branches  of  the  Arkansas; 
and  a  numbir  of  streams  that  fall  into  Klo 
('olorado  of  the  West,  and  the  (iulf  of  Caiifornia. 
Among  these  bights  live  the  East  .iiid  West 
hands  of  the  Kutaws.  The  valleys  in  which  thrv 
reside  are  said  to  be  overlooked  hy  mountains  of 
shining  i;laciers,  and  in  every  other  respect  to  re. 
semblc  the  valleys  of  Switzerland.  I'hey  are  a 
brave,  treacherous  race,  anil  said  to  number  alKiut 
8.000  souls.  They  raise  mules,  horses,  and  sheep, 
and  cultivate  corn  and  beans — trap  the  beaver — 
manufacture  woolen  blankets  with  u  darniuL'^- 
needlo — and  intermarry  witli  the  Mexican  !Spa. 
niards. 

Sixty  miles  east  of  these  monntain.s,  and  .'iO 
south  of  the  Arkansas,  stands,  isolated  on  the 
plain.  Pike's  Peak,  and  the  lesser  ones  that  clus- 
ter around  it.  This  Peak  is  covered  with  perpi'- 
lual  snow  and  ice  <lown  one-lhird  its  hight.  The 
sulmrdinatc  ones  rise  near  to  the  line  of  perpetual 
congelation,  and  stand  out  upon  the  sky  like  giant 
watchmen,  as  if  to  (iroteet  the  vestal  snows  alK)v(! 
them  from  the  |)olluting  tread  of  man.  On  the 
north  side  of  tli(!  river  a  range  of  mountains,  or 
hills,  as  they  have  been  called  by  tho.sc  who  are 
in  the  habit  of  looking  on  the  Great  Main 
Hidges,  rise  almut  2,000  feet  above  the  plain. — 
They  resemble,  in  their  general  characteriBticn, 
those  on  the  south.  Like  them,  they  are  dark 
and  broken — like  them,  sparsely  covered  on  their 
sides  with  shrub  pines  and  cedars.  They  diverge 
also  from  the  river  as  they  descend :  and  after 
descending  it  40  miles,  turn  to  the  north  and  Ios<; 
themselves  in  ths  bights  which  congregate  around 
James's  Peak. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th  we  rose  early, 
made  our  simple  repast  of  tole,  and  prepared  to 
enter  the  mountains.  A  joyfid  occasion  this, — 
Tho  storms,  the  nnni,  the  swollen  streams,  the 
bleakness  and  barrenness  of  the  Great  Prairio 
Wilderness,  in  an  hour's  ride,  would  be  behind 
us  ;  and  the  deep,  rich  vales,  the  cool  streams  and 
breezes,  and  transparent  atmosphere  of  tlic  more 
elevated  regions,  were  to  be  entered.  Wood's 
crc(;k,  on  whieh  wc  had  passed  the  night,  is  a 
cold,  heavy  torrent,  from  the  nortliem  hills.  At 
tlitt  ford,  it  was  about  tltrcc  feet  deep  ai^d  Bcvcn 


in  the  Rochj  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc. 


43 


II 


yards  wide.  Hut  the  current  was  bo  slronir  as  to 
brar  away  two  of  ot"-  saddk'-liorws.  One  of 
thriir  was  my  I'uebla  animal.  She  entered  llie  ' 
Ktreani  willi  all  the  eautiiui  neertiwary  lor  tli<^  re. 
unit.  Stepiimt;  alternately  l>aek,  forward,  and 
Hidcwise,  and  examining  the  eirect  of  every  lollinji 
filonc  upon  the  lawn  of  her  own  ;.'ravily>  she  final- 
ly (fathered  her  ii^'ly  lonn  u|H)n  one  of  Hull'icient 
size  and  moliility  to  phmpe  liers'lf  and  rider  into 
the  Ktreain.  She  Hoateil  down  u  tew  yards,  and. 
eonlrary  to  my  in'*t  fervent  de-siie,  eanie  upon 
her  feel  ajjain,  and  made  the  land.  Hy  dint  of 
■wadini;,  and  partially  drowninij,  and  oiIht  like 
a^rrei'ahlc  ablutions,  we  found  ourselves  nt  last  on 
the  ri'^ht  tide  of  the  water  :  and  hiivini;  bestowed 
upon  it  Kundry  connnendatory  epithels  of  lonjr 
and  approved  nsi-  under  like  eireunistanees,  we 
remounted  ;  and  shiverinir  in  the  Ireeziu'^'  winds 
from  the  n<i^bl)orinir  snows,  trotte<l  on  at  a  piee 
BO  merry  and  fast,  that  thiee.cpiarters  of  an  liour 
brought  us  to  the  buttress  of  the  elitls,  where  the 
Arkansas  leaps  foaminfr  from  them. 

This  liver  runs  'illO  miles  anions;  the  moiin- 
taiiis.  'J'hc  first  halt  of  the  distanee  is  auionij  a 
series  of  eliarminij  vallies,  stf)eked  with  an  endless 
number  of  deer  and  elk,  wliieli,  in  the  sununer, 
livi' ui)()U    the  nutritious    wild  ;rrass  of   the  vales, 


ArkansaB,  to  tlio  dividing  ridge  l)otwccn  the  wa. 
lers  of  that  river  and  those  of  the  southern  head- 
waters of  (lie  south  fork  of  the  lireat  Platte. 

About  midway  its  liiiglh,  the  trail  or  Indian 
Iraek  divides  :  the  one  hraneh  makes  a  eireuit 
among  the  bights  to  the  westward,  terminates  in 
till'  great  valley  of  the  South  I'ork  of  the  Platte, 
within  th(^  mountains,  eonmionly  e.illid  "  Hoyou 
Salaile  ;"'  and  the  other  anil  shorter  bads  north- 
wardly  up  the  gorge  to  the  same  point.  Our 
guide  earefidly  ex.iuiined  both  trails  at  the  di- 
verging point  ;  :ind  lluding  the  more  western  one 
most  traveled,  and  believing,  lor  this  reason,  the 
eastward  one  least  likely  to  be  oeeupii'd  by  the 
Indians,  he  led  us  up  it  to  the  foot  of  the  niouu- 
tain  wliieli  separates  it  from  the  vales  beyond. — 
We  arrived  at  a  littU'  open  spot  at  the  base  of  the 
bight  about  1:3  o'eloek.  'I'lie  slerpest  \>;iTl  of  the. 
trail  up  the  declivity  was  a  loose,  moving  surface 
of  sand  and  pel)bles,  eoustanlly  falling  under  its 
own  weight.  Other  jtortions  were  j)recipitf>'.is, 
lying  along  overhanging  elitls  and  the  '■  i.uis  of 
deep  ravines  strewn  with  fallen  rock..  To  as- 
cend it  seemed  impossible  ;  but  our  old  iteiituck- 

ian  w.is  of  a  difl'eieul  opinion. 

In  his  hunting  e.\peditions  be  had  often   as- 

•euded  and  descended  worse  steeps  with  jiacks  of 


and  in   the  winter,  ujion  the  buds  and  twigs   and   j  beaver,    traps,    &,c.     .Vnd    after  a  descrijition    of 


bark  of  trees.  The  Hit)  miles  of  its  course  ue.vt 
below  is  among  jicrpendieular  clilFs  rising'  on  both 
sides  hundicds,  and  sometimes  thousands  of  fiet 
in  bight.  Through  this  dismal  ehunnel,  uilh  a 
rapid  ciu'reul  down  lolly  pieei|)iees.  and  through 
compressed  passes,  it  pluiigi'S  anil  roars  to  this 
point,  where  it  escapes  nnhly  and  irlei'lully,  as  if 
glad  for  iiaving  tied  some  fe.irful  eiliel  of  nature, 
consigning  it  to  j)erpetual  im|>risoniMent  in  those 
dismal  caverns. 

Here  we  entered  the  Uocky  ]Mouulains  tlirough 
u  dee]>  gorge  at  the  right,  Ibrmeil  by  the  waters 
of  a  little  br(M)k  whii.h  eonus  down  from  the 
north.  It  is  a  sweet  stream.  It  b  ilibles  so  -.Ic- 
lightfully  upon  the  car,  like  those  that  flowed  by 
one's  home,  when  youth  w.is  dreaming  of  the 
lioi)es  of  coming  years  in  the  sinile  of  the  hendock 
by  the  family  spring.  On  its  banks  grew  the 
dandelion,  the  angelica,  the  elder,  the  alder  and 
birch,  ami  the  mount  ain-tla.v.  The  pebbles,  too, 
seemed  old  aciiuaintancis,  they  were  sf>  like 
those  whieli  I  had  often  g  itliered  with  a  lovely 
sister  long  since  dead,  who  would  teach  me  how 
to  select  the  prettiest  and  best.  The  verj'  moun- 
tains  were  dark  aiul  mighty,  ami  overhanging 
and  striped  with  the  departing  snows,  like  those 
that  I  viewed  in  the  first  years  of  remembraiu'c 
as  1  frolicked  with  my  liiotlK  is  on  the  mossy 
rocks.  We  soon  lost  sight  of  the  Arkansas  among 
the  small  pines  and  cedars  of  the  valley,  and  this 
wo  were  sorry  to  do.  The  good  old  stream  had 
given  us  many  a  fine  cat-fish,  and  many  a  bum- 
per of  delicious  water  while  we  traveli'd  wearily 
along  its  parched  banks.  It  was  like  parting 
with  an  old  companion  that  had  ministered  to 
our  wants,  and  stood  with  us  in  anxious,  danger 
ous  times.  And  it  was,  therefore,  ])leasant  to 
hear  its  voice  come  uj)  fro.u  the  caverns  like  a 
sacred  farewell  while  we  wound  our  way  up  the 
valley. 

This  gorge  or  valley  runs  about  ton  miles  in  a 
nortiiwardly  diroclion  from  the  d'  bouchitfc  uf  the 


others  of  a  much  more  diflieult   nature,  which  he 
'  had  made  with  worse  animals  and  heavier  packs, 
j  through  storms  of  bail    and  heaps  of   snow  ;  and 
j  alter  the  assuraneclh.it  theKutaw  village  of  tents, 
I  and    women    and    ehildieii,    had   passed  this  not 
j  many  moons  ago,  we    lelt    nettled  at  our  own  ig- 
i  noranee  oljiossibilities  in  these  regions,  and  drove 
oil' to  till' task.     Our   worthy  guide   led  the  way 
with  his   saddle-horse    following   iiim  ;  the   pack 
animals,  each   under   the  c.icouraging  guardian- 
j  ship  of  a  vigorous  goad,  and    the  men  and  myself 
;  leadiuL'  our  riding    animals,  brought  up  the  rear. 
Now  for  a  long  puil  and  a  slr-'iig  pull  and  a  pull, 
I  not  .dtogelhcr,  but    carb    leg  on  its  own  account. 
;  Five  or  six  rods  of  a  zigzag  claiiiberuig    and  sli]i- 
ping  and  gathering  am!  tiigguig,  advanced  us  one 
I  oil    the   ascent  ;  and   then  a  hall  for   brealh  and 
stniigtli  for  a  new  etVort.     And   tlie    puffing  and 
j  blowing  over,  a  general   shout,    "go   on,  go  on," 
started  the  cavalcade  again.     The  pack  animals, 
i  with    each    1.51)    pounds    weight,    struggled    and 
I  floundered,  as    step    alter    step    gave  way  in    the 
I  .<liding  sand  ;  but   they  labored   madly,  and   ad. 
vaneed  al  intervals  of  a  few   yards   end   resting, 
and  on   again,  till  they  arrived   at  the  rocky  sur- 
face about  midway  theascent.  Here  a  short  pause 
n]Km    the   declivity  was    interrupted   by  a  call  of 
"  onward"  from  our  guide  ;  and  again  we  climbed. 
The  track    wound    around  a  beetling  clilV,  which 
crowded  the  animals  upon  the  edge  of  a  frightful 
precipice.     In  the  most  dangerous  part  of  it  my 
I'uebla  marc   ran    her   pack   against  a  projecting 
rock,  and  for  an  instiuit  reeled  over  an  abyss  .Kit) 
feel   in   depth.      Hut    her    fortune  favored ;  she 
blundered  away   from    her   grave,    and   lived  to 
make  a  deeper   |ilungc  farther  along  the  journey. 
The    up])er   half,  though    less  steep,  proved  to  Ix! 
the  worst  part  of  the   ascent.      It  was  a  bed   of 
rocks,  at   one   place  small  and  rolling,  at  another 
large   and   fixed,  with    deep   openings    between 
thcni.     So   that   our  animals  were  alnioBt   con- 
Btautly  falling,  and  l^  itwiiig  uixjn  the  brink  of 


44 


Trnvch  in  the  Great  Western  Prnincs, 


the  clifTK,  as  tlipy  rose  nj;aui  and  made  (hrir  way 
nmonR  Ihcni.  An  hour  and  a  hall'  of  tliis  most 
danfjcrouB  and  lirrsonic  chiinhrrinjj  drpotiilrd  up 
in  a  (jrove  of  yrllow  pincK  nrar  thr  smnniil.  f)Mr 
aniinalK  wrrc  covcrrd  wllh  sweat  and  dirl,  and 
trrnd)lc'd  as  if  at  tlial  instant  fn>ni  (he  riicc. track. 
Ni>r  were  tlirir  masters  free  from  ivery  ill  of 
weariness.  Our  knees  smote  each  oilier  with  fa- 
tijine,  as  Helshazzar's  did   willi  fear. 

Many  of  the  pines  on  this  ridije  were  two  feel 
in  diameter,  and  a  hmxlred  feet  lii{;li.  with  small 
chisters  id'  limhs  aronnd  the  lops.  Others  were 
low,  and  elollied  with  slronfj  limhs  tpiile  near  Ihe 
yromul.  I'lider  a  mnnhir  of  these  latter  we  li:id 
spated  onrwives,  holding  the  reins  of  our  riding; 
horses,  when  a  slorm  arose  with  the  rapidity  of  a 
whirlwind,  and  poured  upon  us  hail  and  rain  and 
Hnow  with  all  iinai;inal)li'  liheralily.  A  most  re- 
niarkalile  lempfsl  was  this.  I'niike  those  who^e 
monotonous  jj;roans  are  hoard  amon;;  tludni'n 
Mountains  for  days  hefore  (hey  assendile  their  lii- 
ry  arounil  you,  it  i-auie  in  its  slreni;th  at  once, 
and  roeked  the  stately  pines  to  their  most  distani 
roots.  Uidike  those  Ion;;  "  hlows,''  whieh,  gene-  J 
rated  in  Ihe  frozen  zone  of  Ihe  Atlantic  seas,  |1 
brini;  down  Ihe  frosly  hiasts  of  (iroenland  upon 
the  warmer  climes  of  Ihe  Slates,  il  was  Ihe  meet, 
intr  of  dilVerent  eurreiils  of  Ihe  aiirial  seas,  lashiil 
and  lorn  hy  Ihe  live  lhund<r,  amonj;  Ihe  soumlini; 
mountains.  I'idike  any  Ihiiiir  hut  itself,  one 
portion  of  it  ha<l  jjathered  its  elcelrieily  and  mist 
around  .lames's  I'eak  in  Ihe  east  ;  another  amoni: 
the  while  hiyhls  norlhwest  ;  and  a  third  amouji 
Ihe  snow V  pyramids  of  the  Kutaws  in  Ihe  soulh- 
wcHl ;  anri,  marshallinir  their  hosts,  met  over  Ihis 
coiuiectinij  ridfje  helwccu  the  eastern  and  central 
ranges,  as  if  hv  fxciaral  haltle  to  sellle  a  vexed 
question  as  to  the  heller  liirht  lo  the  I'ass  ;  and  il 
was  sublimely  fonchl.  'I'lie  opposini;  storms  met 
i»v\rly  at  Ihe  zenilh.  an<l  fiercely  rolled  tojrether 
their  aUjiry  masses.  And  as  if  In  carry  mil  the 
simile  I  liave  here  aUcmpli'd,  at  the  monienl  of 
their  junelion,  Ihe  elec  ricity  of  each  leaped  upon 
its  aniajronist  transversely  across  Ihe  lieavi  ns, 
and  in  some  instances  fell  ill  imiuense  holts  upon 
the  Iremblinu  dill's  ;  and  Iheii  instantly  c.ime  a 
volley  of  hail  as  lartje  as  irrape-shol,  suHieienl  lo 
whiten  all  the  towers  of  this  horrid  war.  It  last- 
ed an  hour.  I  never  hefore,  not  even  on  Ihe 
pluiiiH,  Haw  siieh  a  moveiiK'nl  of  Ihe  eli'iiients. — 
And  if  anythin!^  had  heeu  wauling  lo  eslahlish 
Iho  theory,  this  cxhihilinn  suHiced  lo  eonvince 
thoKc  who  saw  its  movtmeiils  and  fell  its  |H)wer, 
that  these  mountains  arc  Ihe  ureal  lahoralory  of 
mist  and  wind  and  electricity,  which,  formed 
into  Ktorins,  are  sent  in  such  awful  fury  upon  tlu' 
great  plains  or  prairies  llial  slrcteh  away  from 
their  bases  to  the  Slates  ;  and  that  Ihii^  alone  may 
be  witnessed  the  e.vtronie  i>ower  ol  the  warring  el- 
snients. 

After  the  violence  of  the  tempest  iiad  abated, 
we  traveled  up  the  remainder  of  Ihe  ascent  and 
halted  a  few  minutes  on  Ihe  summit  lo  view  the 
scene  around  us.  Hehinil  was  the  valley  up 
which  we  had  lravele<l,  covcreil  with  evcrjrrc(  n 
shrubH.  On  the  east  of  this,  rose  a  preciiiitous 
wall  of  stratified  rock,  2,00(1  or  .•J.OOO  feet  hi^r],, 
Etrctchinjr  ofT  towards  llio  Arkansas,  and  doited 
I'.eirt  and  there  with  the  ninall  shrub  pine  strug^lin^f 
(I'oio  th«  orevioei  ul'  tho  rocki,    ■  ■•■.  tlio  Notiiiiwciit, 


the  monnlains,  less  preeipilons,  rose  one  nhnve 
another  in  the  dislanee  till  their  blue  tops  faded 
into  the  semblance  of  Ihe  sky.  To  Ihe  east  of 
eur  iwisilion,  there  was  nothing  in  si);ht  but  piles 
of  mountains,  whose  d.irk  and  rajjijed  masses  in- 
creased in  liighl  and  magnilude  till  they  lowered 
in  naked  graiiik  iir  around  .lames's  reali.  From 
that  frozen  bight  ran  uU'lo  IIk'  north  that  seiond- 
ary  ra.igc  of  monnlains  lliat  lie  bclwcen  Hie 
hc",i(l-walers  of  Ihe  Soulh  h'ork  of  Ihe  I'lallc  and 
Ihe  plains.  'I'his  is  a  range  of  lirown,  barren,  anil 
hiokeu  ridges,  dcstilule  alike  of  eai'lh  and  shruh, 
with  an  average  bight  of  HODII  feel  above  the 
plain.  On  Ihe  weslern  side  of  il.  and  north  of 
Ihe  |il,ice  where  we  were  viewing  Ihein,  hills  of  a 
conslaully  decreasing  highl  fall  oir  for  M  miles  lo 
Ihe  noilhwcsl,  till  liny  sink  in  Ihe  bcaiiliful  val- 
lev  of  Itoyoii  Sal.iile,  and  then  rising  again  lower 
higher  .lud  higher  in  Ihe  west  iinlil  lost  in  the 
haze  about  Ihe  base  of  the  ,\nahuac  range  ;  a. 
vast  waste  of  midusled  rocks;  wilhoiil  a  Ihnver 
or  leaf  Id  adoiii  il,  save  Ihose  Ihal  hide  their 
sweelness  from  ilH  elenial  winters  in  the  glens 
down  which  we    v  ere   to  travel. 

'I'he  Analmai-  ridiic  of  the  snowy  range  was  vis- 
ible for  at  least  1 1 10  miles  of  latitude  ;  and  Ihe  near- 
est point  was  so  f'Vilisliinl  Ihal  Ihe,  dip  of  Ihe  hori- 
zon concealed  all  that  portion  of  il  below  Ihe  line  of 
periieliial  congelation.  The  whole  mass  was  purely 
white.  The  principal  irregularity  perceptible  was  a 
slight  undulation  on  the  upper  edge.  There  was, 
however,  perccplible  shading  on  Ihe  lower  edge, pro- 
ilueeil.  perhaps,  by  great  laleral  swells  protruding 
from  Ihe  general  outline,  liiil  Ihe  mass,  at  least 
0(1  miles  dislani.  as  white  as  milk,  Ihe  home  of 
Ihe  frosts  of  :.ll  e!_res,  slrelching  away  lo  Ihe  north 
by  wesi  full  a  hundred  miles,  unsealed  by  anv 
living  Ihiin;.  e.ieept  perhaps  by  the  bold  bird  of 
our  national  ar'}i:> ; 

**  Branil,  hifjli,  etprmil  ami  subliinr. 
Tlie  niOi:k  otrtiies,  anil  Ihe  twin  o(  lime." 

is  an  objeel  of  amazing  gramleur,  unequalcd  pto. 

i  bably  on  the  f'ai  e  of  Ihe  i;l(ibe. 

We  left  this  inlercstiuir  pniorania  and  traveled 
down  five  miles  to  Ihesiile  of  a  lillle  si;vam  run. 
ning  norlh.  ami  eiieaui|ied.  AVe  were  wel  from 
head  lo  fool,  and  shiveriii'i'  with  cold.     The  day 

i  had  inde'il  been  one  of  nmcli  diseomfort  ;  yet  we 
had  been   well  repaid  for  all  this  bv  Ihe  absorbing 

!  freshness  and  sublimilv  Ihal  liuilg  around  us.  'I'he 
lightning  bounding  on  the  crags;  the  thnnder 
breaking  Ihe  slumber  of  the  mountains  ;  a  cooler 
eliinate.  and  Ihe  noble  jiine  again  ;  a  view  of  the 
(ireat  .Main  snowv  range  of  the  "  Uoekv,  " 
"  Stone  "  or  ". 'Shining"  inountains,  soulh  of  the 
Cereal  (iap.  from  a  bight  never  before  trodilen  by 
a  civilized  lourisl,  Ihe.  sight  of  the  endless  assem- 
blage of  rocky  peaks,  among  which  our  weary  feet 
were  yet  to  tread  along  unexplored  waters,  were 
Ihe  delights  which  lay  upon  the  track  of  Ihe  day, 
and  made  us  liajipy  at  our  evening  lire.  Our  sup- 
per of  water  porridge  being  eaten,  we  tried  lo  slec]). 
But  the  cold  wind  from  Ihe  snow  soon  drove  us 
from  oiir  blankets  to  our  fire,  where  we  turned 
onrselveslike(  'hrislinns  lurkics  till  morniiUj.  The 
mountain  (lax  grew  around  our  encampment. 
lOvery  stidk  was  stiircned  hy  the  frosts  of  the 
night  ;  ajid  the  waters  of  the  brooks  were  barred 
with  ice.     This  is  the  birlh-iduce  of  the  Platte. 

Fruiu  thcw  gorge*  iii  iloodii  receive  oxintencci 


in  Hic  Roekii  Monnlaint,  llie  Oreffon  Tcrrilori/,  etc. 


45 


nimvr 
fndrd 

P.IRl  of 

piliH 

iSl'K   ill. 

)W(ri(l 

I'Vom 

rioiid. 

tlir 

Itc  anil 

II,  mill 

Klinili, 

the 

Mill  of 

lis  (if  II 

lilcH  III 

"ill  Vill- 

towrr 

till 

"  (In'    " 


nmnng  llic  sturdy  solcnm  pines  nnd  niirsip;^  I"-,!!.  |j 
pcstn,  12  iniirs  liorlli  of  the  ArkaiisaK's  dcmiirlir.  | 
mpnl  from  the  nioimlaiiis,  mid  '10  miles  due  west  1 
from  James's  Peak. 

Oil  the  inili  we  tnivelrd  in  n  norlliward  eoiirse  ! 
down  the  little  Hlreanis  hiirsliiiL.'  from  the  hills  and  t' 
balililiiij;  ainollj,'  the  liiishes.      W'c   were   U|hiii  an  ' 
Indian  trail  full  ot  sharp  uravel  that  aniioved  our  | 
iinimals  exreedin^rly.     'I'ji,.,   pines  were  niten  dif-  '' 
lleiilt  to  pass,  SI)  tliiek  were  they,      lint  the  rii.'hl  : 
emirse  was   easily  diseiivi  red   aninir^f  them,  even  ' 
vv  hen  the  soil  was  m  hard  as  tii  have  rereived  no 
impression     frniii    previous     traveling,    hy   t^inall  | 
stones  wliieh  the  I'liil.iws  had   plaeed  ammi);  the  , 
liraiiehes.   .Mmiil  mid-day  we  saw  seatleriiit;  spears 
ef  the  wild  lla.v  ajfain,  and   a    few  smiill  slirnhs  of  I 
the   hiaek    liireli    near   the   w.iter   emirses.     'I'lie  | 
r  nilless  elimhini;  and  deseeiidin;,'iir  liills  prevented 
I'lir    makini;    miieli    pmijress.     At  'i  ii'i'lnili   we' 
indjred  ourselves  lint  ID  miles  IVom  the  last  niirht's 
1  iieampmi-nt.      A    eloiid  of  hiil   then    liey;inniiis 
to  pelt  and  ehill  iis,   we  took   shelter   in    a   small  I' 
(M-ove  of  pines.      Hut  as  the   hail    had    fallen    twoj 
iiie!ies  in  depth  over  the  whole  adjuliiinir  eoimtrv, 
every  movement  of  tlw   atmosphere   was   like  a  i 
lilasi  of  Deeeniher.     'I'lio  eold  to  sleep  ;  we  there-  ] 
t'lre  liiiilt  fires  and  dried  our  jiaeks,  \e.  till  the' 
howl  ot  the  wolves  [raviMiotiee  of  the  approaeh  of 
moriiinij.     'J'ole  for  lireakfast.      It   had   Ihiii  our 
only  food  for  nine  days.     It  seemed  slranyie  that 
we  should  have  traveled    lf<!l  miles  in  a  eoimtry  ] 
like  that  we  had  passed  thronirh  siiiee  leaving  I''ort 
\\  illiam,  without  killiiip;  an  animal.     Hut  it  eeused 
til  appear  so,  when  our  worthy  ijuide  informed  us 
that  no  iiiiliviiliial    had  ever  eoiiie  from  the  Ar-  ' 
kaiisas,  in  the  refrion  of  the  I-'ort,   to  the   iiioiin-  , 
tains,  with  as  little  siilVeriii'.'  as  we  had.     "  It  is," 
said  lie,  "a  Htarvintj;  eouiiliy;   never  any  came  i 
found  in  it.     'I'ho  hiiHalo  come  into  these  valley  i 
from  the  north  thioujjh  the  Itiill  Peii  ;  and  ^o  out 
tliiTe  when  the  Ktornis  of  the  autumn  warn  Ihern  ' 
to  llei  ;■!  the  south  fur  warm  winter  ipiarters.   I!ut  ! 
that    valley  oti'  iliere,  (pointiiii;  to  a  low  smooth  ''. 
vpot  in  the  horizon)  looks  niii;hly  like  Moyou  ."^a-  '' 
lade,    my  old  sl.-inipiiur  (rrouiid.     It  it  should  lie,  ' 
we  will  have  meat  before  the   sun   is  liehiud  the 
snow."'      We  were  well  pleased  with  thi.-;  prospeet. 
( )ur  .Mexieaii  servant  eried  at  the  top  of  iiis  voice 
"  I'Ista   miiy   hiieno,  Senor  Kelly,  si,  muy  hueiio,  | 
esle  Uoyou  i^alade  ;  mueho  earne  por  nusotros."  j 
And  the  poor  fellow  had  some  reasons  for  this  e.x-  | 
prission  of  joy  ;  for  the  tole  reijimen  had  hecn  to  ' 
iiim    what  tie- wat(  r  j;niel  of  the  miidfniir  work-' 
house  was  to  Oliver  'I'wist,  e\eepl  that  its  exeel- 
leut   ll.ivor  had   never  indueed  the  .Mexiean  "  to  | 
ai^k  tor  more."      He  had,  on  iirevioiisoeeasions,  in  I 
I'onipany  with  Kelly,  gnawed  the  rihs  of  many  a  , 
fat  eow  in  Hovou  Salade  ;  and  the  instinels  of  his  ^ 
sloinaeh   put   him  in  such  a   tren/.y  at  the  recol.  i 
leelion,    that  althoujrh  he  eoiild  only  imdirstand 
till'  words  "  linyoii  Salade,"  these  were  sutlieieiit 
to  iiiduec  him  to  cross  himself  from  the  forest ep  to 
the  ahdomen,  and  to  swear  h)-  Santa  (taudaloupc 
that  tole  was  not  food  for  a  Christian  mouth. 

On  theSDtli  we  were  earl}- on  our  way.     The  I 
small  prairie  wolf  that  had  howled  us  losleep  every  1 
eveninjr,   and   howled   is  awake  every  morning  i 
«'1CP.    wo   left    Indepcndcnee,     was    continually 
greeting  UH  with  un  ill-natured  growl,  as  uc  rodo 
ftlong  among  hiu  hidiug  plucov.  'i'ho  iUcaiiiB  tlitkt  | 


wvrv  mere  rivulets  2(1  miles  hack,  Imviilg  received 
a  thousand  (riliutaries,  were  now  heavy  and  deep 
tern  iits.  The  peaks  and  niountain  swells  were 
clad  with  hail  and  snow.  I'lVery  tiling,  even  our. 
selvi  s,  shlveriiii;  in  our  hlaiikels,  (jave  evidence 
that  we  were  Iraversinu'  the  realms  of  winter.  Still 
many  of  the  crasses  and  tlowers  that  usually 
llourish  in  hi;;h  latitudes  and  elevated  places  were 
tfpiu  iiej;  aloni;  the  radices  of  the  lulls,  and  aided 
mill  h  ill  );ivin;;  the  whole  scene  an  unusuidlv  sin- 
ijiilar  a!-pec(.  We  were  in  line  spirits,  and  in  the 
iiijoynient  of  a  voracious  appetite.  <  hir  expect  i- 
tiouii  of  haviii;;  a  shot  soon  at  a  ImfTilo,  were  pcr- 
liap-  .111  accessory  cause  of  this  last,  liiit  he  th.it 
as  it  may,  we  dodifcd  aloii^  anioii;;  the  pines  and 
spruce  and  hemlock  and  lirs  alHnit  Id  miles,  and 
ro^:covrr  a  swell  ol  land  covcied  with  siiiail  trees 
in  tiillviewofa  i|uict  little  hand  of  liutl'ilo.  Ye 
diiliis  who  presided  of  old  over  the  trencher  and 
(fi.h'ct,  did  not  our  palates  leap  (or  a  tender  loin  ' 
A  halt  — the  crecpinir  away  of  our  famous  old  Iven- 
tii'kian  around  a  copse  of  wood — the  crack  of  his 
de  lOly  rille--(lie  \\rilliin;f  of  the  hiitl'do  '.  lie  lays 
hill'.-'  If  trenlly  down  ;  all  is  silent,  intense  anxiety 
if  If  will  rise  airaiii  and  run,  us  they  often  do  un- 
der till'  smart  of  a  wound,  hcvoud  our  reach  ainonjj 
the  liills.  Nol  he  curls  his  tail  as  in  the  last 
a(_'ni:v  ;  he  voiiiils  hlooil  and  elioaks ;  he  is  ours  I 
III'  1:  oursl  1  Our  knives  are  quiiddy  hauled  from 
th'ir  sheaths — he  is  lulled  upon  his  brisket — his 
liidi  is  slit  alonir  the  s|iiue.  and  pealed  down  mid 
rib;  line  siile  of  it  is  cut  olV  and  spread  upmi  the 
sand  to  receive  the  meat ;  the  flesh  on  e;ich  siric  of 
the  spine  is  parreil  otV;  the  moiiili  is  npened,  and 
till  l.piii.'Ue  wrenched  from  his  jaws;  the  axe  is  laid 
to  his  rib  ;  the  cavitv  opens  :  the  heart — the  (at — 
llii'  (cnder  loins — the  te|>id  blood— the  intestines, 
of  ;;lorious  savorv  sausafe  nicniory,  are  lorn  out — 
his  lejrs  are  ritlcil  of  their  jrcneroiis  marrow  l)one.< ; 
all  wrapped  in  the  irnru  hide,  and  loaded  on  ani- 
mals, .mil  olVio  camp  in  a  charniini;  }rrovcot  while 
pine  hv  a  cold  slie.un  of  water  under  a  woody  hill  I 
Ah  1  yes  I  Who  that  had  seen  us  stirring  our 
fires  that  niirhl  in  the  starlight  of  bright  skes 
ainom;  llie  mountain  forests  ;  who  that  had  seen 
the  liutV.dll  ribs  propped  up  before  the  eracklill^; 
i  blaze- -the  brisket  iKiilinj;  in  our  cami). kettles; 
'  who  thai  had  seen  us  with  open  counlcnanees  yield 
to  these  well  cooked  and  drippini;  invitations  to 
I  "  drive  dull  care  away,"  will  not  believe  that  we 
aecepted  tlieiii.  and  chewed  and  swallowed  against 
tiiiie,  and  liuii[,'er.  and  tole  >  Yes.  we  ate  that 
blessed  nit;lil  till  there  was  a  reiisonable  ])resmiip- 
tionthitwe  had  caleii  enough.  .\iid  when  we 
bad  s]iciit  a  half  hour  in  this  delightful  einploy- 
j  nicnl.  tli;it  presumption  was  supported  by  a  pil.'  of 
tjiiawcd  bones,  that  if  put  together  by  Uul'jii  in 
bis  best  style,  would  have  supported  not  only  that 
;  but  another  presmiiptioii  to  the  like  etreei.  Hut 
our  hearty  old  Kciituckian  was  at  home,  and  wc 
;  were  his  iniesls.  He  sat  at  the  head  of  his  own 
I  board,  and  claimed  to  dictate  the  number  of  course 
with  which  we  should  be  served.  "  No,  no,"  said 
he.  as  Kv  rolled  away  iVoiii  the  bare  ribs  strewn 
around  us,  to  our  couches  of  pine  leaves,  '"no,  no, 
I  have  eaten  with  you,  fared  well,  and  now  you 
must  put  courage  u|)  while  you  cat  with  nie  ;  no, 
no,  not  done  yet ;  mighty  good  eating  to  come. 
Take  a  rest  upon  it  if  you  Ukc,  wliile  I  cook  un. 
other  turn ;  but  I'll  \n»wc  you  to  «at  till  da/  pQO\)t, 


46 


Travels  in  the  Ortat  Western  Prairies, 


Our  mini  licrc-  in  llic  inouiitaiiis  iirvfr  painH  one. 
Nolliiii'.;  iKirniB  liorc  but  pills  ami  Irad ;  iniiiiy> 
the  tiinc  llial  I  li.ivo  starved  six  and  ciglil  days; 
ami  wlirii  I  liavr  found  moat,  ate  nil  nijjiil: 
that's  llio  cntilnm  of  the.  romitry.  Wr  never  Imr- 
r<i\v  troidile  from  linnger  or  thirst,  and  when  we 
liave  a  plenty,  we  eat  the  best  pieees  first,  for  fear 
of  beinjr  killed  by  some  brat  of  an  Indian  lielori' 
we  have  enjoyeil  lliem.  You  may  eat  as  much  as 
yon  ean ;  my  word  for  it,  this  wild  meat  never 
liurtH  one.  Hut  your  ehickens  an<l  bacon.  iVe.  in 
the  s<'ttleineiilH,  it  eaine  rifjhl  near  Hhovini,'  me 
into  llie  Keny.m  when  I  was  down  there  Inst.'" 
While  the  (xei'lle.-it  man  was^jiviii;;  vent  to  lliet.e 
kind  feelinjis,  he  was  busy  makini;  preparations 
for  anothiT  eourse.  The  marrow  l)ones  were  un. 
derpoinjj  a  sovrrc  llajrellalion  ;  the  blows  of  the 
old  hunter's  hatiliel  were  er.iekinj;  Iheni  in  pieees. 
and  liiyinj;  bare  the  rolls  of  "  trapper's  bnller" 
within  them.  A  pound  of  marrow  was  thus  e.\- 
Irucled,  and  pill  into  a  jjallon  of  water  healed 
nearly  lotlie  boiliiii;  point.  The  blood  wliiili  hi' 
had  (lipped  from  the  cavity  of  the  lintlido  was  then 
Btirred  in  till  the  mass  beeame  of  the  consistency 
of  rice  soup.  A  little  salt  and  black  pcp))cr  liuislicil 
the  preparation.  It  was  a  (hie  liisli  ;  too  rich, 
perhaps,  for  some  of  my  esteemed  aeipiaintaiii'es, 
whose  dijfcslive  ort;ans  partake  of  llic  jrcncral  lazi- 
ness of  their  habits  ;  but  to  us  who  liad  so  Ion;;  dc. 
sired  a  healthful  portion  of  luiilily  excieise  in  that 
(pnrter,  it  was  the  very  marrow  .iihI  life-blood  oI — 
not  Grahamism,  for  our  frieixl  (.inli  iin  1  think 
does  not  Inlieve  in  marrow  and  fatness — the  miir. 
row  and  fatness  and  life-blood  ol  whalsocvcr  is 
(rood  and  wli(desomc  for  famished  earnivirons  ani- 
mals like  ourselves.  It  was  excellent,  most  excel- 
lent. It  was  lictler  than  our  father's  foamint;  ale. 
l''or  while  it  loosed  our  tongues  and  warmidoiir 
hearts  towards  one  another,  it  had  the  additional 
erteet  of  Aaron's  oil  ;  it  made  our  faces  to  .'^liine 
with  (Tie  isc  and  ijladncss.  Hut  the  rcmeiubrance 
of  the  palate  pleasnresof  the  next  course,  will  not 
allow  me  to  dwell  lonjier  n|)on  this.  Tlie  crown- 
injr  deliirht  was  yet  in  store  for  us. 

While  enjoyin;;  the  soup,  which  I  have  just 
described,  wi'  believed  the  bumper  of  our  pleas- 
ures to  be  sparkliinf  to  the  brim  ;  and  if  our  ex- 
cellent old  trapper  had  not  been  there,  we  never 
should  have  desired  more.  Hut  how  true  is  that 
philosophy  which  tc.iclies,  that  to  be  Ciipable  of 
liappiness,  we  must  be  coiKscious  of  wants  !  Oi.r 
friend  Kelly  was  in  this  a  practical  as  well  as  tlieo- 
relioal  Epicurean.  "  No  givin<r  up  the  beaver 
so,"  said  lie ;  "  another  bait  and  we  will  sleep." 
.Sayinj;  tliis,  he  sei/,ed  the  intestines  of  the  Imf. 
falo,  which  had  Ircu  properly  chancd  for  the 
jiurjiose,  turned  them  inside  out,  and  as  he  pro. 
ceeded  stuffed  them  with  strips  of  well  sailed  and 
])ep|M'rcd  tenderloin.  t>nr  "  boiidies"  thus  made, 
were  stuck  u|K)n  sticks  before  the  (ire,  and  roastod 
till  they  were  thoronghly  cooked  and  bro«ncd. 
The  sticks  were  then  taken  from  their  roastiir^r  i>o. 
Bition  and  stuck  in  position  for  eatinj;.  That  is  to 
say,  each  of  us  with  as  fine  an  appetite  as  ever 
blessed  a  New-l'hijrlanil  boy  at  his  (jrandsire's 
Thanksgivinff  Dinner,  seized  u  stick  spit,  stuck  it 
in  tlie  earth  near  our  couches,  and  sitting  upon 
our  haunches  ate  our  last  course — the  desert  of  our 
mountain  host's  entertainment.  These  wilderness 
situsagcB  would  have  gratiiiud  the  appetite  of  tlioso 


who  had  been  deprived  of  meat  a  less  time  than  we 
had  been.  The  envelopes  preserve  the  jiiiees  of 
with  which  while  cookinii,  the  ndlieriuK  fat,  turned 
wilhin,  ininirlcsand  Ibrnis  a  pravy  of  the  liiust  fla- 
vor,    .'^nch  is  a  feasi  in  the  inoimtains. 

Since  Isaviiif;  I'ort  William  wc  had  been  occa. 
sioiially  erossini;  the  trails  of  the  I'litaw  war  par- 
ties, and  had  fell  some  solieiliide  for  the  safety  of 
our  little  band.  An  overwhelming  number  of 
them  mi(;ht  fall  ii|Hin  ns  at  nifrht  i:nil  aimihilalu 
us  at  a  blow,  lint  we  had  thus  far  selected  such 
encanipmenls,  am!  liad  such  conlidenee  in  our 
rides  and  in  our  dofj,  who  never  lailid  to  f;ivc  us 
notice  of  the  least  niovenient  of  a  wolf  or  pan- 
ther at  niirlil,  that  we  had  not  stationed  a  Kuard 
since  leavinj;  that  post,  (hir  pnideloo  Bnnclioned 
this  course;  alw.ays  saying;  when  llie  subject 
was  inlroilueed  that  the  dawn  of  day  was 
the  time  lor  Indian  allacUs,  and  that  they 
would  rise  early  lo  find  his  eyes  slilit  after 
the  howl  of  the  wolf  on  the  hills  had  nnnouneid 
the  approach  of  li^lit.  We  however  look  the 
preeaulion  to  eneaniji  at  nijjhl  in  a  deep  woody 
irlin,  whicii  conceali'd  the  h(;lil  of  our  fins,  and 
slept  with  our  etpiipments  upon  ns,  and  our  well 
primed  rifles  across  our  breisls. 

On  the  moniinK  of  the  'Jlst  wt  were  awakened 
at  sunrise,  by  our  servant  who  had  Ihuseaily  been 
in  .search  of  our  aniinalv.  Tlie  sun  rose  ovi  r 
the  eastern  niounlaiiis  brillianlly  and  jrave  prom- 
ise of  a  fine  day.  Our  route  lay  amonu  vast 
swelliiiL'  hills,  the  sides  of  wliie'i  weri'  eovcred 
with  en  VI  s  of  the  larjrc  yellow  pine  and  asj)en. 
These  \\\'  r  trees  exclude  every  othi  r  from  Ihi  ir 
society  .  "iiy  stand  sf)  idosily  that  not  the  half  of 
their  number  live  nnlil  they  are  five  inches  in  di- 
ameter. Those  also  that  <;row  on  the  lM)rders  of 
the  ifroves  are  |;eni  rally  destroyed,  beinij  deprived 
of  tiieir  bark  seven  or  eiirlit  lei  t  uji,  by  tlie  elk 
which  resort  to  tliein  yearly  lo  rnb  oil'  the  annu- 
al i;rowlh  of  their  boms.  The  .miow  on  the  tops 
of  the  hills  was  mrltinff,  and  almii;  the  lower 
edge  of  it,  where  the  grass  was  green  and  tender, 
herds  of  builalo  were  gr  izing.  So  far  distant 
were  they  from  the  vales  Ibrongh  which  we  trav- 
ilid,  that  Ihey  appeared  a  vast  colleelion  of  dark 
sjiecks  on  the  line  of  the  sky.  Hy  the  side  of  the 
|iebbly  brooks,  many  beautiful  plants  grew.  A 
sjiecics  of  eonvolviilons  and  honeysuckle,  two 
species  of  wild  hops  and  the  mountain  flax,  were, 
among  them.  Fruits  were  also  beginning  to  ap- 
pear;  as  wild  |)liini8, currants,  yellow  and  black; 
the  latter  like  those  of  llie  same  color  in  the  gar- 
dens, the  former  larger  than  either  the  red  or 
black,  but  of  an  unph'asant  astringent  flavor. — 
We  liad  not,  since  entering  the  mountains,  seen 
any  indication  of  volcanic  action.  The  roeky 
strata  and  the  soil  appeared  to  be  of  primary  form- 
ation. We  made  15  miles  to-day  in  a  general 
course  of  north  by  west. 

On  the  2".Jd  we  traveled  8  miles  through  a  coun- 
try similar  to  that  passed  the  day  before.  WV. 
were  still  on  the  waters  of  the  Platte ;  but  seldom 
in  sight  of  the  main  stream.  Nnmerous  noisy 
brooks  ran  among  the  rolling  hills  over  wliieh  wc 
rode.  During  the  early  part  of  the  morning  buf- 
falo  bulls  were  often  seen  crossing  our  path  :  they 
were  however  so  poor  and  undesirable  that  wc 
shot  none  of  them.  About  10  o'clock  we  came 
upon  a.  fresh  trail,  diBtinctly  marked  by  hoofs  and 


in  the  Roehj  Mountains,  the  Orei;on  Territory,  etc. 


47 


draRjflnj;  lor^r.  polcd.  Kclloy  judjifil  i\\cm  "nlgiiH" 
to  be  nut  more  timn  'J'l  lioiirH  oM,  and  \n  Imvr 
brcii  mnclc  by  ii  parly  of  EutaWB  which  hud  piiBHid 
into  Ilaynu  Snhtdc  U)  himt  thr  hiitralo.  Iloxlili; 
liidiatm  in  our  immediate  nci){ldKirhoorl  was  by  no 
ineaiis  an  ai;riTahle  circuniHtancr  lo  us.  We 
roiild  not  contrnd  with  any  hope  ol'sncceBU  ajfaiiiHt 
l.'>ll  lomahiiwltfi  and  an  rqnal  iiimdicr  of  niUHkcts 
and  Ikiwh  and  airows.  'I'hcy  wuuld  alwj  frighten 
the  hiilFalo  hark  to  llie  Bull  pin  and  llint  pirvcnt 
iiH  from  layinjj  in  a  htmk  of  meal  f.irther  alon;;  lo 
Hup|N)rl  us  iierciss  Ihr  desert  in  advance  'if  us.  We 
therefore  drtermined  to  kill  the  next  hidl  that  wi- 
should  meet,  lurelhe  best  pieeis  lor  paekini;,  and 
lliuM  prepare  oiuselveB  for  a  wicj^'e  or  a  retreat,  as 
eireums'anires  nii(rht  dietale ;  or  if  the  Indians 
Hliould  ,)revent  our  obtaining  other  and  better 
meat  anil  y'  not  interrupt  us  by  any  lioHtili-  de. 
niotislralioi  ,  in  purHuini;  "ur  journry,  we  nui;hl, 
by  an  eruiHomiial  use  of  what  we  could  pack  from 
tliiH  point,  be  able  lo  reach,  before  we  tihould  perish 
with  huiijrcr,  llic  (fauK!  which  we  hoped  to  fmil 
on  tributaries  of  (jnuid  F{iver.  We  thcreliire 
moved  on  with  (;r«at  c-aution  ;  and  at  alKiul  "J 
o'lloek  killed  a  lincyounK  bull,  lie  fell  in  a  (jlcn 
Ihrouirh  which  a  lilllc  brook  munnured  alon;j  lo  a 
copw  just  ImIow.  'I'lic  bulls  in  considerable  num- 
ber were  lielehiiii;  their  sur|)luH  wrath  on  llie  other 
Hide  of  the  liltU^  wood  with  us  much  ajiparent  com- 
placency as  certain  aniinalfl  with  fewer  le);s  and 
iioriiK  often  do,  when  there  is  not  likely  to  l)e  any 
Ihin^  in  l)artieular  to  opjMiBe  tin  oi.  Hut  fortu- 
nutely  for  the  rejiiitiition  of  their  j>relentiuiis,  as 
"fionietimcs  iLipjieiis  to  I  heir  biped  hn'thern,  a  eir. 
ennislancc  chanced  to  occur,  when  their  eouniye 
seemed  waxiiif;  to  the  burstiii};  slalis  on  which  it 
could  exjiend  its  enerjjies.  'I'hc  blood  of  their 
Blaughtcred  eoinjianion  scented  the  breeze,  and  on 
thry  came,  2(1  or  more,  tail  in  air,  to  take  proper 
vengeance.  We  dropjicd  our  butcher  knives, 
mounted  (juiekly,  and  wore  about  to  acconiniodate 
tlicni  with  the  contents  of  our  rifles,  when,  like 
many  )ier))eiidieular  bi'llowcrs,  as  certain  dinger 
comes,  lliey  tied  as  bravely  as  they  hud  approachid. 
Away  they  racked,  for  butl'alo  never  trot,  ovirthe 
brown  barren  hills  in  the  northeast,  lookinj;  neither 
to  the  ri;,'ht  nor  left,  for  the  lonnr  hair  around  the 
head  does  not  |)ernii  t  nuch  aberrations  of  their 
optics  ;  but  onward  (jloriously  did  they  roll  their 
massive  bulks — now  sinking  in  the  vales  ndliow 
blowing  U|)  the  ascents  ;  stopping  not  an  i.isiant 
in  the  career  of  their  indomitul>le  eoiirse  until 
they  l<X)ked  like  crecpinif  insects  on  the  brow  of 
the  distant  mountain.  Having  tlms  vanquished 
by  the  most  consinnmate  generalship  and  a  stern 
patriotism  in  the  raidis  never  surpassed  by  Jew  or 
Gentile,  these  "abandoned  rebels,"  we  butchered 
our  meat,  and  as  oni'  of  the  works  of  returning 
peace,  loaded  it  ujmn  our  atiiinals,  and  traveled 
in  search  of  (|uukinj;sap  wood  wherewithal  to  dry 
it.  'I'hc  traders  and  tra])pers  always  prefer  this 
wood  for  such  purposes,  l)ccau8c  it  is,  when  dry, 
more  inodorous  than  any  other;  and  consequently 
docs  not  BO  sensibly  change  the  flavor  of  the  meal 
dried  over  a  fire  made  of  it.  Half  an  hour's  ride 
brought  us  to  a  grove  of  this  timber,  where  we 
encamped  for  the  night — dried  our  meat,  and 
Eutaws  near  or  far,  slept  soundly.  In  f Jiis  remark 
I  should  except,  perhaps,  the  largest  piece  of  hu- 
man nature  among  us,  who  had,  aa  iiis  custom 


l|  was,  curle<l  down  hard-by   our   brave  old  guide 
1  and  slept  at   intervals,   only  an  eye  at  a  tini4',  for 
fear  of  Indians. 

2.'ld.     Eightcrn  miles  to-day  among  rough  pri . 
I  cipices,  overhanging  crags,  and   roaring  lorrerls. 
There  were,  however,  Iv-tween  the  declivities  and 
I  among  the  copses  of  cotton-WooH,  ipiakingnsp  and 
I  Kr,  and  yellow  pine,  some  open  gladi-<i  ,-uiil  Isauti- 
i  fill  valleys  of  green   verdme,  WiiKred  by  the  rivu- 
lets gusliing    from   the    stony   hills,    and   spark- 
\  \'nvx  with  be;uitil'ul  llowers.  i'ive  or  six  miles  from 
lour  hisl  encanipiiient  we  came  iqifin  thi^  brow  ol  a 
1  woody  hill  thai   overlooked    tlu    viilley,  where  llie 
|Watei.s  on   which  we  were  traveling   unite   willi 
I  others  that  come  down  from  the  mounlains  in  the 
norlli,  and  from  what  is  projierly  c.illi'd  the  South 
;  Fork  of  the  (Jreat  l'litl<'.   within    the  niouiilains. 
Here  we  I'oimd  fresh    Indian  tricks;  and  on  lliiil 
uceoiml  deemed  it  prudent  lo  take  to  the  timlii  red 
higlils  Ixirdering  the  valley  on  the  west,  in  ordi  r 
:|to    iiRccrlaiil   the    iHisilimi    of  the    Indiaiis,    Iheir 
nmulu  IS,  &ir..  before  venliirinu  within  their  reach. 
I  We  aecordinuly  li>r   Ihrfe  hours   wound  our  way 
in  silince  among  fidleii  timber  and    thick-set  eot- 
1  ton. wood — climbed  every  neighboring  height  unci 
j  examined  the  depressions  in  the  plain  which  could 
not  be  seen  from  the  lower  hills.   I  Living  searched 
n  the  valley  tboniiiL'lily   in    this   miiinier,  onil  per. 
('.living   from  llie    peaceable  and  ('areless  beuriii:,' 
j  of  the  small  bunds  of   bntliilo  around   its  liorders, 
I  that  if  there  were  Indians  within  it   they  were  at 
|!  some  distance  from  our  tr.iil,    we  descended  from 
jitlie   heighlH   and   struck    lhron;;h   a  deep    ravine 
l|ni  ro.<.s  it,  to  the  jimclionofthe  norlhern  and  soiith- 
lern  walcr^  of  tiieslream. 

We  found  the  river  at  Ibis  place  150  yards  wide, 
j  and  of  an  average  depth  of  alxml    b  i'ei't,  with  a 
I  current  of  five   miles  the  hour.     Its  course  henee 
lis  E.  N.   E.   about  IIIO   miles,   where  its  rushes 
Ij  through  a   magnifiient   keiiyon  or  chasm   in  the 
jieaslejii    range  of  the    IJoeky    .Mountains   to  the 
I  plains  of  llu^  Ci'rcal  I'rairie  Wildemes.s.    This  val- 
i  icy  is  a  congeries   or  eollcction  of  valleys.     That 
i!is,  along    the   banks   of  the   main  anil  tributary 
streems  a  vali^  extends  a  few  rods  or  miles,  and  is 
'neuily  or  quite   se]iarated    from  a   similar  one  be- 
yond, by   a  rocky  ridge  or  buleor  a  rounded  hill 
covered  with  grass  or  timber,  whiih  pn)tru(lcs  from 
the  height  towards   th(!  stream.     Tliis  is  a  buirs 
eye  view  of  Hoyou    Sulade — so  named  from  the 
circumstencc  that  native  rock  salt  is  found  in  some 
parts  of  it.     We  were  in  the  central  |K)rtion  of  it. 
To  the  north  and  south  and  west  its  isolated  plains 
risti  one  above  another,  always  beautiful  and  cov- 
ered with  verdure  during  the  inontha  of  spring  and 
summer.     But  when  the  storms  of  autumn   and 
winter  come,  they  arc  the  receptieles  of  vast  liodles 
of  snow  which   fall   or  arc  drifted   there  from  the 
Anahnac  Ridge,  on  its  western  horizon.    A  sweet 
spot  this,  lor  the  romance  of  the  future  as  well  as 
tiic  present  and  past.     The  Imffulo  have  for  ages 
resorted  here  about  the  last  days  of  July,  from  the 
arid  plains  of  the  Arkansas  and  the  Platte  ;  and 
thither  the  Eutaws  and  Chcyennes  from  the  moun- 
tains around  tlio  Santa  F6,  and  the  tshoshonies 
or  Snakes  and  Arrapahocs  from  the  west,  and  tho 
Blaekfeet,  Crows  and  Sioux  from  the  north,  have 
for  ages  met  and  hunted  and  fought  and  loved. — 
And  when  tlieir  battles  and  hunts  were  interrupt- 
ed by  tlto  chdls  and  snows  of  November,  they 


48 


TiifcLs  in  lilt  (JrciU  Western  Pruirici, 


Unvi:  nrp.TMlod  fur  llii'ir  Mvcriil  wiiili  r  rc.JirlN. — 
lliiw  wild  iiiid  Ik  iiilitid  Ihi  |i:iMt  iih  il  ciiiiirM  up 
llr(1i;ril  Willi  till'  |iliim:iw  rd  llii;  iiimuinilifiii  I — 
'I'lichr  viili'H  hliiddiil  Willi  II  lliciiiHniid  villiifrrs  nf 
I'iMiii'.-il  xkiii  wii^wiiins,  willi  llirir  lliniiNiinds  of 
(iriH  lili/iiii;  on  llir  nlan y  linnv  id  niylil  1  I  we 
llir  dusky  fiiriuh  crfiucliiii','  iinmiid  tln'  i;l<(«inx 
pill's  id'  i;;nil('il  Idl"*.  in  liiiiiily  frioups  wliis|MTiiii; 
lllf  drr  iiiiN  id'  llii'H'  liidf  liivi' ;  nr  l^l(lll■r^ll  iiniiiud 
llir  Ml. iKv. Ill  riuiii  id  H'liii'  iioldr  rliii'l  III  tlir  liniir 
id'  iiiiiliii'.;lil,  liHli'iiiii!,'  In  llii'  li.ir:iiii;iii'  iil'  vi'iiu'r- 
lUirc  iir  llir  wliiKip  111  vv.ir  lliiil  is  In  r;inl  llir  do.idly 
iirrinv  willi  llii  rn>il  jM'' i"' "'  'i""'""!!!  In.'lil.  "r 
liiny  vvi'  mil  Ml'  lli'iii  i;iilliri'i'il.  :i  riirlrid  Ihmvi's 
aiiiillid  ill!  iii;ril  Irri',  -ill  iniMidcilrirli  liy  tin'  lllilsly 
triipliii'N  III  hid!  II  rriiliiry'K  iI.hmi!;  drnl.-i.  'I'lir 
('l(lr.<l  mid  rirlii'sl  in  Hi'iilps  risr.s  Iniiii  llir  rriilirid 
llir  rill!I  lIMll  Hllvillirrs  In  llli  llir.  Ilrir  llilll. — 
"  J'd'lv  WIlllriN  iiirii,  wlirii  llir  hrvriilli  iiuhiii'h  i'ust 
linrii  liimj;  nvcr  llir  (;irrii  Imr.sls  nf  llir  l^iil.iw 
hills,  liiysrir  mill  (ivr  iilliriurn  rlril  ii  Inil^'r  („r  |||(. 
(ilrill  .'^piril  oil  111"  MHiWK  ol  llir  Wllllr  illilr.mid 
rariird  llirlcnur  waiiipiliii  and  i. kins  mid  llir  liidr 
III  II  wllllr  liullili).  VN  I'  lillii^  lliriil  ill  llir  (iiral 
Spilil's  |iid;;i' mid  sralril  iiiirMlvrs  ill  silriir.r  lill 
till'  nioipii  liad  dr;iri  iidril  llir  wislrni  ninuiil'iin, 
and  lliiiii<;lit  ii<  llir  lilimd  id  iiur  lalliris  llial  Hie 
I'linimullrs  ll  id  killril  uliril  tlir  liinoil  was  liiuiul 
and  lay  on  llir  raslriii  plain.  My  iiwn  l.illirr  wa;i 
I'i'alpril,  and  llir  liillirrs  id  Tur  olliriti  wrir  sralprd, 
and  llirir  hlnoily  lu-ads  wiTr  (ruawril  liy  llir  wullC. 
W'r  roiild  Mill  livr  wliilr  mir  I'allirr's  lodirrs  wvrv. 
ciiiplv  anil  tlir  si  ilps  id'  llirir  iniirdrrors  wrrr  iinl 
111  llir  liiil,rrs  III'  Diir  iiinlli'Ts.  t  )urlit-ails  lold  us  to 
niakr  tliisr  idlrridixs  lo  llir  jrrral  npiril  wdio  hid 
fiislrrrd  lliriii  on  llir  iiionnlaiiis;  and  wlirii  Ihr 
iiioDU  was  ilowii  and  llir  shulows  ol  ihr  Whilr 
Itntr  wvtf  as  dark  as  llic  Ilrir  ol' a  hrar,  wi;  said 
to  the  <Jrrat  .Spirit,  '  .No  man  ran  war  with  the 
arrows  rroiii  llir  ipiivrr  of  lliy  Hlornis;  no  man's 
word  r.iii  hr  heard  w  lirii  thy  voirr  is  anion);  the 
i'IoiiiIh  ;  no  iniin's  hand  is  slioiiir  wlini  thy  hand 
lots  liwsr  its  winds.  'I'hr  wolI'Mrnawrd  Ihr  lirads 
ol  our  lalhrrs  miil  tin-  sralps  of  llirir  innrdrrris 
hanj;  not  in  Ihr  lodiri's  of  uiir  luolhrrs.  (iirat  fa. 
Ilirr  spirit,  sriid  iiol  Ihiiir  ainxrr  out ;  hold  in  thy 
liiuiil  llir  winds;  Irl  iiol  thy  irrral  viiirr  ihiiwii 
tlir  (k'atli  yrll  whilr  wr  hunt  Ihr  ninrilrrrrs  of  our 
lathrrK.'  [  and  Ihr  rivr  otlirrs  thru  liuill  in  Ihr 
niiddir  of  Ihr  lodirr  a  lirr,  and  in  its  hritjiil  lichl 
Ihr  (irrat  .Spirit  saw  Ihrwanipiim  and  Ihr  skins 
and  Ihc  wliitr  hnll'alo  lililr.  l''ivr  days  and  niiihls 
I  and  llir  livr  nllirrs  danml  and  smokril  Ihr  Mcili- 
ciii  and  lioiit  tlir  Ujard  willi  stirks  and  rhinntril 
iiway  till'  powrr  of  llir  [rrral  rdiriii  .Mini  u  that 
they  nii^xlit  not  hr  ovil  to  us  and  liriiiif  sirknrss  into 
our  Ixim'H.  'I'lirn  wlirii  llir  slurs  wnr  shlninsr  in 
the  rlcar  sky  wr  sworr,  (I  luusl  iiol  Irll  wdial,  lor 
it  was  in  tlir  car  of  ihr  (iirat  Spirit,)  mid  wrnl 
out  of  the  lodirr  willi  our  l)osi)m.-<  full  of  miirrr 
against  llir  innrdrrris  ofonr  fatlirrs,  whosr,  hours 
WIMP  in  till' jaws  of  I Iit3  wolf ;  and  wrnl  for  llirir 
scalps  to  hill!;  thrill  in  llir  liiil;;rs  of  our  iiiollirrs." 
Scr  liiin  strike  thr  aired  trrc  with  his  war  rliib, 
a(;ain,  aj;ain,  iiiiir  tinirs.  "  .So  iiiuiiy  Cuinanclirs 
did  1  slay,  llir  inurdrrs  of  my  father,  heforc  the 
moon  wan  round  iii;ain  and  la"  U|X)ii  the  eaHlrrn 
plain."  This  is  not  merely  an  iinu){ined  scene  of 
former  timeB  in  J3uyou  Sulado.  All  ihn  ewtntiul 
incidaati  Klfttcd,  huppviKii)  y«arly  u\  tk^l  Art4 


olhi  r  hnnliirr  ^'roniids,   win  iirvir  tlio  old  liravrii 

assriiililed  to  la  leliratr  the   valorous  dmlH  (if  their 

1  yiiuii);i'r  days.       When    tlirsr    rxnliiiK     M'lalions 

wirr   linifihril,  Ihr  yoiiiii;    iiirii    of  llie  Irilw,  who 

'  had  not    yet    di»tiiii;uiNlii  d    IheniwIvrH,    werr    ex. 

Iiorlid  lo  srrk  L'lorv   III  a    iniilar  way.      And  won 

'  to  liini  who  p.issrd  lii^:  luinh'iod  »  ilhout  ornainent. 

I  111';  Ihr  door  of  Ilis   |i)d;;e    with  the   sealps  of  Iuh 

'  rnemirs. 

I       'I'liis  valli'v  is  slill  firipiriilril  hy  soiilr  id    llirsn 

Irilirs  as  a  siiiiinirr  haniil    wlini    ihr    liril  id  the 

plains  rriidri's  llinii  iinrnmlorlalilr.     'I'lii    l')iilawi 

.  Wrrr  srouriii'.;  il  when  WI-  passrd,      Wr  Iherrforr 

I  rniNwil  Ihr  rivrr  to  ils  iiorlhrrn  lunk  and  followi  d 

up  ilM  norlhrni  hrmirli  riijlil  iiiiirs,  with  rvrry  eye 

'  kenily  srareliiii:;  for  Ihr  appr  iranrr  of  furs;   and 

ni.idr  our    enranipnirnl    for  Ihr    ni>rht    in  a  dnp 

'  ill  asm  ovrrhiiiii;  hv  Ihr  loiii;   liranelirs  of  a  i;rovi' 

'  of  whilr  pini  s.      \\r  hiull  our  lirr  in  Ihr  dry  IkiI 

ofa  luoiiiilam  lorrrnt,  sliaili  (I  liy  IhisIiih  on  llirsidr 

Inward  Ihr    vallry,    and  alHivr,    hy    a  dense  iiia.^H 

of  Imiiirhs,  mi  rUrrlu.dly,    as  not    only  lo  eoiieral 

Ihr  hla/.r  from  .my  oiir  in  tlir    vallry,  liiil  also  to 

pirvriit  Ihr  lelleel imi  from  i;uililiii:;  loo    lii(;li  the 

j  eoiispienoiis  fiiilii);e    of  Ihe    nriirhlKirini;    Irres. — 

t  .Ml       mr  horHis  had  frd  tliniiselves  we  lied  them 

j  e'  our  eoiielii  s,  that  thry  iiiit;ht  Iiol,  in  ease. 

I  <  ii'k,  hr  drivrii    aw.iy    helorr    we  had  aii 

'  f  y  of  (l(  feiidiii';  lliriii,  and  wlirii  we  re. 

i  lirrii,  thrrw  wiiler  upon  our  lire  that  il  inii;lit  not 

;  i;uiile  the  Indians    ill    a    seaieh    for  us ;  put  new 

j  raps  upon  our  anus,  and  Iriisliiii;  to   our  doi;  nnd 

ninlr,    Ihe  latlrr  in    sin  h   rawH   always  Ihr  most 

skilful,  lo  scent  their  approarli,    tried    to  sleep. — 

Hut  wr  wrrr  too  iirar  Ihe  snows.     Chilliiii;  winds 

;  Slicked  down    Ihr,  valr    and    drove    us    from  our 

hhiiikris  to  a  sliiveriu;;  watidi  during  Ihr  remain. 

der  of  Ihe  night.      Not  a  rap  however,  was  hurst. 

-Vlas  for  our  hravc    inleiituins,    they    ended  in  an 

agile  lit. 

Our  guide  informed  us  that   the  Euluws  reside 
on  IhiIIi  sides  of  the  liliitaw  or  Aiiahiiae  ninuntansj 
thai  lliry  arr  eonlinually  migrating  from  oiicsidi! 
lo  the  oilier;  thai  lliey    s[)eak    Ihe    Spanish   lan- 
guage; lliat  some  few  half  lireeds  haveemhraecd 
Ihr  ( 'alholic  failli ;  that   Ihr    remainder    yet  hold 
Ihe  simple  and  siihlime  faith  of  their    forefathers, 
in  Ihe  r.vistrncr  of  our  great  creating  and  sustain- 
iiig  caiisj,    mingled    with  a  helief  in    the  ghoslly 
visitrxlinns  of  thrir  deerasrd  .VIrdirin   nien.or    di. 
:  viners  :  that  thry  iinniln'r  KIDtl  fainilirs.     He  also 
stated  lliat  Ihr  Chiyrimes    are  a  hand  nf  renega- 
docs  from  Ihe.  Kiitaws  andCiimaneheH  ;   that  they 
are  less  hrave  and  more    Ihirvish    than  any  other 
trihe  living  in  the.  plains  south  of  .Vrkansas. 
We  started  at  7  o'clock  on  the  mnrning  of  the 
I  ^llli,  traveled  b  miU'siii  a  north  by  west  (lircclion, 
:  killed  another  hulValo  und  wild  into  camp  to  jerk 
the  meat.     Again  wr  were  among  the  frosts  nnd 
snows  and  storms  of  anntlier  dividing  ridge.  t)iir 
camp  was  on    the    height   of  land    heteween  the 
waters  of  the   I'latte    and    those  of  Grand  River, 
1  Ihe  liirgrst  Hoiithern    hraneli    of  the   C'olerado  of 
,;  the  West.     From  this   eminence    wc    had  a  fine 
1  view  of  IJoyou  Salade,  and  also  of  the  Anahnac 
!i  range,  which  wr  had    heforc  seen    from  the  ridge 
!i  between  the  Arkansas  and  the  southern  waters  of 
J  the  Platte.     160  miles  lo  the  Bouth   east  towered 
;i  tlie  bald  liead   of  Jumcs   Peak,  to  iho   cunt  KH) 
;{  milvii  iltnttiut,  w«r«  tha  brolr.cn  uitd  frownini;  olitfi 


in  the  Rocky  Mountaint,  the  Oregon  Territory,  ifc. 


49 


thrnuKh  wliicli  t]i<^  Wmth  Tcrk  i>r  tlir  Pliiltp,  nftcr 
havii>K  (rntliiTKil  nil  iIh  tiiouiituin  trihiitnrii'H,  lor. 
ro*  iti  rnnrini;,  (■ai*i,'udr  coiirw  to  tin:  plains.  To 
till!  iiortli,  the  low,  tiiiilxTiyl  1111(1  KrniwyhillH,  Hoiiir 
li|>|M-<l  with  Hiiow  iind  olIicTM  crowned  with  tol'ty 
puiiti,  r.uli'd  into  u  miiooth,  dim  and  ri'Kiilur  lion- 
vm. 


CIIAl'TLU  V. 

An  Aicent— A  Miilcrtunc— A  D.'illi— Ttic  MiiuaUiu  o(  the 
llbiT  ('r<M«— Lmpiiie  Pinra— Killini;  «  BuAtli>— Aaw*  itn't 
Tyranu— i'anllirr,  Co.  —  ()«n(r«nliy— HomiMliinr  «l)OUl 
Dckcpn'liiii'  <hi  Cnl<truil<t  dI  (lie  Wfnt— Divuiioif  KIiIki^k— 
A  Sc«n)>— Tunili  rUHU  l'«rk— A  Wnr  WUiiop— Mffliiiu  nl 
Oil)  ITrllciw  i'rippi-rii— A  Ndtalilf  Tr.iinp— My  Marr— 
The  KiKiortleol  Uir  Muuiiulni— Kelly '■  nlj  Camp,  Ur 
—A  Urrut  Heart-  Liule  Bear  Illwr— Vvifl'lil'i  and 
Hitterii-14-Tw'i  Willie  Men  a  Hquaw  and  Ohilil— A 
Deail  nhm— What  It  Tadelul— Trappini;— HUrkrool  ami 
Hlou«— A  Blmirty  Inciileiit— A  Ca»e— Hdl  Mprinr— The 
(Ujuntry~A  Hurprme  -  Aiuerii*aii  and  ('nnailiau  Trappers 
The  eirand  Itirer— Old  Para  — Ueiili  Befiiie  q»— $!■  u— 
Oetpalr-Bear  Hum— Sulphur  Puddia— The  Hi»er— 
Wiif»et  and  Ihelr  Kare— Dti<  Katiiii;— 1.  ti|>  Naake  Kiver 
-Tulmi—  U"iertii_Mnunt«iiii— Muuu>aln  Hmientou— 
Browii'a  Mule— Kort  l>avhi  Cmckeil— Vil^ndiliip — "tub 
lime  and  Beiiuiiiul— Trail  Winierandiu  llllariiii'k— 
l<o»e— The  way  in  if.'t  i  W|l«— A  Reaiiiiimendaiinn  to 
(^iffilii>*d  PniiplH--T*ie  Cntiiradu  (if  the  Wati — riah  in. 
dlan» — Tlie  HMoiihnnle^— An  Indian  Teiiiperanre  N<ict«iy 
—The  Cr.iwt-Tae  Hlickleel-700  •4lielei..».— Tlie  Arra. 
pahnei,  aa4  Oliiianihip  aninn);  ihein— War  Pariie>— 
l/>di;c  ni  the  Great  H  >irii  -Itelii^laua  Cerrinimiej  —  The 
VowiiiidaM  Incident— The  tint  Staoahunie  who  mw  a 
White  Man. 

The  ascent  to  thiH  higlit  wits  not  kr  laburiotig 
as  tliP  onfi  near  the  .Vrkiinwia.  It  lay  ii|i  the  fuee 
of  n  niountniii  timt  Ibrnied  ;i  liirger  iiiigle  with 
pinne  of  the  horizon  than  did  the  other.  But  it 
waa  clothed  with  a  dense  forcHt  of  pines,  h  species 
of  double  leaved  hemlock,  and  spruce  and  fir 
trees,  which  prevented  our  animals  from  fallinij 
over  the  precipieen,  and  enabled  us  to  make  loni; 
sweeps  in  a  zigingf  course  Uiat  inucli  relieved  the 
fatigue  of  the  ascent.  We  however  met  hero  a 
misfortune  of  a  more  serious  n;tture  to  us,  than 
tlic  Htonn  that  pelted  us  on  the  other  ridge.  One 
of  the  horRcH  belonging;  to  our  puidc  sickened  just 
before  arriviiij;  at  the  summit  and  refusing  to 
bear  farther  the  burden  which  ho  iiad  theretofore 
borne  with  case  and  apparent  pride,  sunk  under  it. 
We  roused  him — he  rose  upon  his  legs  and  made 
a  wilUng  attempt  to  do  liis  duty — but  the  ))oor 
animal  failed  in  liis  generous  effort.  We  f  bereforo 
took  off  his  pack,  put  it  upon  luy  saddle  horse, 
and  drove  him  lieforc  us  to  the  sunmiit,  from 
whence  we,  enjoyed  the  Iteautil'ul  prospect  I  have 
juit  described.  But  we  felt  little  interest  in  the 
expanse  of  sublimity  before  us ;  olir  eyos  and 
■yinpatliiofi  too,  were  turned  to  the  noble  nniinal 
which  was  now  suffering  great  pain.  He  had 
Wen  reared  in  the  niountains  ;  and  it  seemed  to 
be  his  highest  pleasure  to  tread  along  tlieir 
giddy  brinks.  Every  morning  at  his  post,  with 
the  other  horse  Iwlonging  to  his  master,  he  would 
ktand  without  lieing  fastened  and  receive  his  bur- 
den ;  and  with  every  demonstration  of  willing- 
ness, bear  it  over  the  mountaijis  and  through  tor. 
rents  till  his  task  wait  ended  in  the  night  citcani|)- 
inent.  Such  a  horse  in  the  desolate  regions  we 
were  traversing,  the  bearer  of  our  wearing  apparel 
and  food,  the  leader  of  our  band  of  animals,  the 
property  of  our  k  id  old  Kcntiickian,  the  one- 
third  of  all  his  worldly  estat-    waa  no  mean  ob. 


jcct  of  interest.  After  noticing  him  awltiln,  w« 
|N'reeivcd  syniptoiiis  of  his  Uiing  iKiinoned,  ad- 
ministered whatever  mediciiicH  we  [KMWvuHt'd  iiiilcd 
to  the  case,  and  let\  liiiii  to  his  fate  for  the  night. 
Kaiii  during  the  day,  frost  during  the  night ;  icA 
in  our  camp  kettU'S  an  inch  in  Ihicknciw. 

Wu  were  out  early  on  the  moniingof  the2,5tli, 
and  found  our  guide's  liorst-  living.  VN  e  arcording. 
ly  Hitddled,  jiacked  and  started  liowii  the  valley  of 
a  linall  head  stream  of  (irand  Kiver.  The  sick 
honv!  was  driven  slowly  along  for  alsiiil  five  milcii 
when  he  refused  to  go  fartlier.  It  now  became 
evident  that  he  had  Ix'cn  eating  the  wild  pars, 
nips  at  our  last  eni'ampment  on  the  other  bide  of 
lh(^  ndge.  That  he  must  (Uc  iMu'aine,  therefore, 
certain,  and  we  unpacked  to  see  the  breath  from 
his  lK)dy  lieforc  he  sho'.ild  Ijc  left  to  the  inercilews 
wolves,  lie  died  near  daylight  down,  and  as  thu 
patli  liefore  us  was  rough  and  bushy,  we  concluded 
to  remain  on  the  s|Kit  for  the  night.  Our  anxiety 
for  the  life  of  this  excellent  aniniid  had  well  nigli 
led  us  to  pass  uiiol>s(;rved  one  of  the  most  singular 
eiirtioHities  in  nature — a  erossof  erystalized  quartz 
in  the  eastern  face  of  a  conical  motuitain  ! 

There  were,  on  the  western  side  of  the  stream 
which  we  were  following  down,  a  (uilleetion  of 
biites  or  conical  |>eaks  clustered  around  one,  whose 
top  was  somewhat  in  the  fonn  of  the  gable  end  of 
an  auciciit  church.  This  cluster  was  flanked  on 
each  side  by  vast  rolls  or  swells  of  earth  and  rouk, 
which  rose  so  high  as  to  l>o  capped  with  snow.  In 
the  distance  to  the  West,  were  seen  through  the 
openings  between  the  hutes,  a  nirniWr  of  spiral 
peaks  tiiat  imagination  could  have  said  formed 
the  western  front  of  a  vast  holy  edifice  of  the  eter. 
nal  hills.  On  the  eastern  face  of  the  gable  bute 
there  were  two  transverse  scams  of  what  appeared 
to  be  erystalized  qu  irtz.  The  upright  was  about 
GO  feet  m  length  ;  the  cross  scam  about  20  feet, 
thrown  athwart  the  upright  near  its  top  and  \ying 
parallel  to  the  plane  of  the  horizon.  I  viewed  it  be 
the  sun  rose  over  the  eastern  moimtains  and  fell 
upon  the  glittering  crystals  of  this  emblem  of  the 
i$aviour°s  suffering ;  built  with  the  foundations  and 
treasured  in  the  bosom  of  these  granite  solitude*. 
A  cross  in  a  church,  however  fallen  we  may  sup. 
pose  it  to  be  from  the  original  purity  of  wor»hip, 
excites,  as  it  should,  in  the  minds  of  all  reasonablo 
men,  a  sacred  awe  arising  from  the  remembrance 
of  the  scene  in  Judea  which  spread  darkness  like 
the  night  over  the  earth  and  the  sun.  But  how 
much  more  impressive  was  this  cross  of  living 
rock — on  the  temple  of  nature  where  priest  ne\'er 
trod ;  the  symbol  of  redeeming  love,  engraven 
when  Eden  was  unscathed  with  sin,  by  God's  own 
hand  on  the  brow  of  his  everlasting  mountains, — 
The  trappers  have  reverently  named  this  peak  the 
"  Moimtain  of  the  Holy  Cross."  It  is  about  500 
feet  in  hight  above  the  level  of  the  little  brook, 
which  runs  a  few  rods  from  its  base.  The  upper 
end  of  the  cross  is  adout  100  feet  below  the  sum- 
mit. There  are  many  dark  aud  stately  groves  of 
pine  and  balsam  fir  in  the  vicinity.  About  the 
brooks  grow  the  black  alder  and  the  laurel ;  tha 
honeysuckle  and  a  great  variety  of  wild  flowers 
adoni  the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  The  virgin  snows 
of  ages  wliiten  the  lofty  sumn'its  around;  th« 
voice  of  the  low  murmiuing  rivulets  trembles  in 
the  sacred  silence  :  "  O  soUtude,  thou  art  here," 
tlie  lip  moves  to  speak.  "  Fray,  kneel,  adore,"  on« 


60 


Travels  in  the  Cheat  Western  Prairies, 


Bcems  to  hear  softly  breathed  in  every  breeze.  „  It 
i»  holy  ground. ' 

2Ctli.  On  march  at  6  o'clock  and  traveled  down 
the  small  strear.i  which  had  accompanied  us  on 
the  24th  and  25th.  As  we  advanced  the  vallies 
opened,  and  the  trees,  pine,  ftir,  white  oak,  cotton 
wood,  quukinjrasp,  &c.  became  larger  and  taller. 
The  wild  flowers  and  jrrass  became  more  luxuri- 
ant. As  we  were  on  an  Indian  trail,  our  course 
Was  as  nearly  a  right  line  as  the  eye  of  that  race 
could  trace  ai.iong  the  lower  hills.  Hence  wo 
often  left  the  stream  and  crossed  the  woody 
swells ;  not  hilis ;  not  mountains  ;  l)ut  vast  kwoII. 
ing  iracts  of  land  that  rise  among  tliese  vales  like 
half-buried  spheres,  on  whicli,  frequently  for  miles 
about  us,  pine  and  fir  trees  of  the  largest  size  had 
been  prostrated  by  the  winds.  To  leap  our  ani- 
mals  over  these,  and  among  them,  and  into  them, 
and  out  of  them,  and  still  among  them,  flounder, 
ing,  tearing  packs  and  riders — runjiing  against 
knots  and  tumbling  upon  N]ilintery  stubs  and 
rocks,  were  among  the  amusements  of  getting 
througli  'hem.  The  groves  of  small  quaking.isp, 
too,  having  been  killed  by  the  elk,  in  some  places, 
had  fallen  across  our  track  so  thickly  that  it  Ix'. 
came  necessary  to  raise  yie  foot  over  one  at  al. 
most  every  step.  Here  my  Puebhi  mare  performed 
mrny  a  feat  of  "  high  and  lofty  tumbling."  She 
could  leap  the  large  pines,  one  at  a  time,  with 
satisfaction  to  lierself;  that  was  wortliy  of  lier 
blood.  But  tu  I  tep,  merely  step,  over  one  small 
tree  and  then  over  another,  seemed  to  be  too  muili 
condeHCeiision.  Accordingly  she  t<)f>k  a  firm  uu. 
alterable  stand  upon  her  rcnerveil  rights,  from 
which  njither  ptdling  nor  whipping  seemed  iikciv 
to  move  her.  At  length  she  yielded,  as  great  mrn 
Hometimes  do.  her  owi.  opinion  of  '.■onstitutiunid 
duty  to  the  will  of  the  people,  and  Uai>ed  amoiiii 
them  with  a  desperation  that  ought  to  have  an. 
nihilatcd  a  square  mile  of  such  obstacles.  But 
instead  thereof,  slie  turned  a  summerset  into  about 
the  same  quantity  of  them,  and  there  lay  "alone 
in  her  glory,"  till  she  was  tumbled  out  and  set  u|) 
again.  i 

The  valley  during  the  dey's  journey  had  aj).  i 
peared  five  miles  in  width.  On  its  lK)rders  huiiir 
dark  mountains  of  rork,  some  of  wliieh.  lying 
weslwiird,  were  tipped  with  shining  iee.  Far  be- 
yond these  aj)peareil  the  Analiuae  lidge.  .Snow 
m  the  south  w.is  yet  in  sight — none  seen  in  the 
east  and  north.  The  valley  ilsi  U  was  nuu.li 
broken,  with  minor  roeky  declivities,  bursting  up 
between  the  "swells,"  and  with  fields  of  large 
loose  Bloni'S  laid  bare  by  the  torrents.  'I'lie  bul. 
falo  were  seen  grazing  in  siuidl  detached  herds 
on  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  near  the  lower 
line  of  snow,  those  grein  fields  of  Ihe  skies. — 
Many  "elk  signs,"  treks,  &e.  were  met;  but 
none  of  these  animals  w  ere  seen.  Our  guide  in- ' 
formed  me  that  the  habit  ol  them  is  to  "follow! 
the  snow."  In  other  words,  that  as  the  snow  in 
Bummer  melts  away  from  Ihe  lowlands,  lliey  foli 
low  its  retiring  banks  into  the  mountains.  And 
when  it  begins  in  autumn  to  descend  again,  they 
descend  with  it,  and  pass  the  winter  in  Ihe  val- 
ley. He  also  accounted  for  the  absence  of  the; 
male  deer  in  a  similar  way  ;  and  added  that  the 
do"B,  when  they  bring  forth  their  yoimg,  forsake 
their  male  compunionB  until  the  kids  are  four  or 
five  months  old ;  and  this  for  ttiu  reason  that  the 


unnatural  male  is  disposf  1  to  destroy  his  ofTspring 
I  during  the  ])criod  of  its  helplessness.  Some  rain 
I  fell  to.day. 

j      27th.  Wc  commenced  our  march  this  morning 

I  at  6  o'clock,  traveled  as  our  custom  usually  was, 

Ij  tdl  the  liour  of  11,  and  then  halted  to  breakfast , 

,|  on   the  bank   of  the   streaui.     The   face   of  the 

;|  country  along  the  morning's  trail  was  much  the 

ii  same  as  that  passed  over  the  day  iH^fore  ;  often 

:  be.u  liful  but  ofteuer  sublime.  Vast  sphirical  svcHs 

1  covered  witli    bufiido,   and   wild  flowering  glen.s 

M  echoing  the  voi.;es  of  a  thousand  cascades,  and 

,:  coimtlesg   nund)ers   of  lofty  peaks  crowding  the 

:|  sky,  will  give  perhaps  a  Tamt  idea  of  it.     As  the 

I  stream   that  we   had  been   following  bore  to  the 

westward   of  our   course,    wc   in    the  afternoon 

struck   across   a   range   of  low  hills   to  anol'ie-- 

I  branch   of  it  that  came  down  fro.ni  thi'  eastirn 

/'  mountains,  and  encamped  n\mn  its  biinks.  Tlu  s(^ 

:  hills  wc!re  composed  of  hard  gravel,  ciyered  with 

;  two  or  three  inches  of  black  loaii..      In  the  deep 

I  vales  the  mountain  torrents  had  swcj  t  away  the 

'■  soil  and  left  the  strata  bare  for  miles  along  their 

I  courses.    The  mountain  flax  and  the  large  thistU^ 

'  flourished  everywhere-    The  timber  wa  ;  flic  same 

]t  in  kind  as  we  had  passed  the  three    last    days. 

'  The  groves  were  principally  coi.i'ned  i.o  the  lower 

portions  of  the   ravines  whieli   s'--,  pt   down  from 

Ihe   snowy  bights.     The  A!»ahoiic  range  in  the 

]  west    appeared  to  dip  'l.eper  in  the  horizon,  and 

recede  i'arlher  Inim  us.     (  ''le  half  only  of  its  alti- 

tiide   as  seen   tmiii   the  (i,    iding   ridges  was  now 

visible.     We  were   doubtU  a    lessening   our  own 

altitude  m:iterially.  but  the  dilference   in   the  up. 

liareiit  liiirht  of  this  ridge  was  in  part  [irodiiced 

liy  its  increased  distance.   It  had  evidently  begun 

to  tend  rapidly   towards  the  f'acific. 

An  agi'd  knight  of  the  order  of  horns  strode  iieross 
our  path  near  1  o'clock,  and  by  hisi)rineely  lic;iriiig 
invited  our  old  trapper  to  a  tilt.     His  Kentucky 
blood  could  nut  be  eh.dlenged  with  impunity.   He 
!  dropped  upon  one   knee — drew    a    close    sight — 
clove  the  bull's  lieart  in  twain  and  s(  lit  him  groan- 
ing upon  the  sand.    He  was  very  poor,  but  as  we 
I  had    riMson   to  tear  that  we  were  leaving  the  Imf- 
faln  "  beat,"   it  was  deemed   iirudent  to  increase 
Ihe  weight  of  our  packs  with  the  better  portion  of 
his  flesh.      Aceiirdingly  the  tongue,  heart,  leaf  fat 
I  and   the   "  fleece  "   were   taken,  and  were   Ix  iii^T 
lashed  M|«jn  our  mule,  when  an  attack  of  liillidus 
lir.-iveiy  seized  our  giunt    in   the    extri  niities,  ami 
he  began  to  kick  .■iiid  be;it  his  horse   for   presimi- 
in:r   to  stand   on  lour  leet,  or  sonic  finiilar  act, 
witfiout  his  permission,  in  such  gallant  style,  that 
our  mule  on  which  Hie   meal   was  placed   leaped 
I  artVightcd    from  us  and  droppiil  it  on  the  sand. 
I  Wc  were  all  exiremdy  vexed  at  this,  and   I   be. 
i  lievc    made    some    disparaging    comparisons    be- 
I  tween  the  intellects  of  asses  and  tyrants.   Whctlar 
I    lur    mule  or  .^mith   felt    most  aggrieved  thereby 
!  we  wire  never  inlbrmed.     Hut    the   matter  was 
j  very  pleasaiitly  disposed  of  by  our  benevolent  old 
!  guide.      He   luined   thi'   moat   with   his  foot  and 
kicked  it  good  naturcdly   from  him,  and   said    in 
his  hiandist  manner,  '•  iSo  dirt  in  the  moiuiting 
but  sand — the  te(  lb  can't  go  that ;  "  anil  mounted 
his    horse  for  the  march,  we    traveled  2U  miles 
and  encamped. 

28th.  18  miles  down  the  small  valleys  between 
the  slinrp  and  rugged  hills ;  crossed  a  number  of 


in  the  Roclcy  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  dj-r. 


51 


small  streams  runiiiiis  westward.  The  moun- 
tains nlons  our  \v:\y  ililTrred  in  rhnructrr  from 
any  wo  liiul  lierrlol'ore  passed.  Some,  of  tli'-in 
were  composed  entirely  of  earth,  and  semi  .'lipti- 
cal  in  form  ;  nlliers  endjraced  tlionsaiids  of  aeres 
of  wh.it  seemed  to  he  mere  elevations  of  fine 
brown  pravel,  rising  swell  ahovi!  swell  and  sweep. 
iufT  away  to  tlie  hijrlit  of  201)0  feel  ;  destitute  of 
timber  save  a  few  slender  strips  which  frrew  alon^r 
the  rills  that  triekled  at  long  intervals  down  their 
sides.  We  eneamped  a^'ain  on  the  hank  of  the 
main  stream.  It  was  1(11)  yards  in  width  ;  water 
1  i  feet  deep,  current  (i  miles  the  lionr. 

diJth.  To-day  we  struek  (Irand  River,  (the 
[treat  southern  braneli  of  thi^  Colorado  of  the 
Wrsl,)  20  miles  from  our  Inst  ni(;ht"s  encamp, 
ment.  Ft  is  lierr  300  yards  wide,  eiirri'nt  (I  miles 
the  hour;  water  from  (i  to  lOfict  in  depth — 
transparent,  hut  lik(?  the  utmosph  j  of  nui'di 
liigher  temperature  than  we  had  met  wUli  since 
leaving  the  Arkansas.  The  vallies  th.it  lie  iipon 
this  stream  and  some  of  its  tributaries,  are  called 
by  the  Imnters  "'I'heOld  I'ark"  If  the  quah- 
fyini(  term  were  omitted,  they  would  be  well  d.- 
seribed  by  their  name.  M.xtensive  meadows  run- 
ninpr  up  the  v.illevs  of  the  streims,  woodlands 
skirling  the  mouutain  bases  anil  dividiu'.'  the 
plains,  over  which  the  antelope,  bliek  and  white 
taih'd  deir,  the  IOiij;lisli  hare,  the  big  horn  oi- 
mountain  slice]),  the  griv'y,  grey,  ri'd  and  black 
bears,  and  thebutl'alo  and  elk,  r.uige, — a  splendid 
Park  iniieeil ;  not  old,  but  new  as  in  the  tirst 
fresh  morning  of  the  creation.  Here  also  are 
found  the  prairie  an<l  the  large  grcv  wolf,  the 
American  jianthcr,  beaver,  pole  cat,  and  land  ot- 
ter. The  grisly  bear  is  the  largest  and  most  fcro. 
r'ous — with  hair  f  a  dirt}-  brown  color,  sparsely 
mi.ved  with  those  of  a  yellowish  white.  The 
males  not  unfre<pienlly  weigh  ;")  or  II  hundred 
pounds.  The  grey  bear  is  less  in  size,  hair  nearlv 
black,  interspersed  along  the  shoulocrs  and  hips 
with  white.  The  red  is  still  less,  s.ay  the  tra|)pcrs, 
an<l  of  the  e»>lor  indicated  liy  the  ii  ime.  'J"he 
black  bear  is  the  same  in  all  rcspecis  as  ili.').--c  in. 
habiting  the  States.  'I'he  prairie  <log  is  also  IoiukI 
here,  a  singular  animal  parh;dly  dL:cril)ed  in  a 
previous  page  ;  but  as  they  niav  be  lietir'  known 
from  liieutcuint  Pike's  disenplion  of  them,  1 
shall  here  introduce  it.  "  'I'iiev  live  in  towns  and 
villages,  having  .an  r\''  ''it  police  established  in 
their  eonnuunitics.  'l"l  •  sites  of  these  towns  are 
generally  on  the  br  n.  of  a  hill,  near  some  creek 
or  pond,  ill  order  t'  oe  convenient  to  water  and 
to  be  e.\emjit  Ironi  iinnulatlon.  Their  resilience 
is  in  burrows,  which  descend  in  a  spiral  lorm." 
The  Lieutenant  caused  1  10  ketlles  of  water  to  he 
poured  into  one  of  tlieir  IioIc.h  iii  order  to  drive 
out  the  occupant,  but  failed.  "  Thev  ii<  ver  travel 
more  than  iialf  a  mile  from  tlieir  homes,  and 
readily  associate  with  rattle  snak  s.  They  arc  of 
a  dark  brown  color,  e.vccpt  their  bellies,  which 
are  red.  They  are  something  larger  than  a  grcv 
squirrel,  and  very  fat  ;  siippcwed  to  be  graminivo- 
rous. Tlieir  villages  sometimi's  e.\lciii'.  over  t«o 
or  three  miles  square,  in  which  then'  must  be  in- 
numerable hosts  of  thei.i,  as  tliere  is  generallv  a 
burrow  every  ten  steps.  \s  you  approach  the  ir 
to'vne,  you  arc  saluted  m  all  sides  by  the  cry  ot 
"  v  iaiiloiiu'ish,"  uttered  in  a  shrill  piercing  man- 
nur."    Tlie  birds  of  these  regions  arc  tlic  spurrow,  | 


hawk,  the  Jiiekilaw,  a  species  of  grouse,  of  the 
size  of  the  I'.nglisb  grouse  ;  color  brown,  a  tufted 
bead,  and  limbs  feathered  to  the  feet  ;  the  raven, 
very  fM;;e,  turkey,  turkey-bnzzards,  geese,  all  the 
varieties  of  ducks  known  in  sneli  latitudes,  the 
bald  and  grey  eagle,  mctidow  l.irk  and  robin  red 
breast.  (.)f  reptiles,  the  small  striped  lizard,  horned 
frog  and  garter  snake,  are  the  most  common. 
Uattli'  snakes  arc  said  to  be  found  among  the 
(■litis,  but  I  saw  none. 

\\'c  forded  (Jrand  River,  and  encamped  in  the 
willows  on  the  uorlhcrn  shore.  The  mountains 
ill  the  west,  on  which  the  snow  was  lying,  were 
still  in  sight.  The  view  to  Ihe  e  ist  and  south 
w.is  shut  in  by  the  neighboring  hills  ;  to  Ihe  north 
and  north-east,  it  was  o|)eii,  and  in  the  distance 
ajipeared  the  Wind  River  and  other  mountains,  in 
till'  vicinity  of  the  '  threat  (iap.'  During  the  eve- 
ning, while  the  men  were  angling  for  trout,  Kellv 
give  me  some  account  of  (Jr.iiid  River  and  the 
Colorado  of  the  West,  (iraiid  River,  he  Hiid,  is 
a  briinch  of  the  Colorado,  it  rises  far  in  the  cast 
among  the  pn  ci|)itous  liights  of  the  eastern  range 
of  the  Rock^'  .Mountains,  about  midw.iy  from  thc> 
(ireat  (Jap  and  the  Keiiyon  ol' the  .'■Miuth  Kork  of 
theT'lalte.  It  interlocks  the  distance  of  111)  miles 
with  the  walers  of  Ihe  (In  at  I'latte  ;  its  course 
to  llie  |)oint  where  we  enisscd,  is  nearly  due  west. 
I'rom  thence  it  eouliimes  in  a  west  hy  mirth  coiirse 
lliO  miles,  where  it  breaks  through  the  Anahiia-, 
Ridge.  The  elills  of  this  Ki  nyon  are  said  lo  Iv 
many  hundred  I'eet  high,  and  overlianging;  williin 
them  is  a  series  of  cascades,  which  roar  like 
Niagara  when  the  river  is  swollen  bv  Ihe  freshets 
in  .lime.  Alter  jiassing  this  K'enyon.  it  is  said  to 
move  with  a  dashing,  loaming  cnrrcnl  in  a  west- 
erly direclion  TiO  mill  s.  where  it  unites  with  Green 
River,  or  .'^licetskadee.  and  forms  the  Colorado  of 
Ihe  West,  i'rom  the  junction  of  these  branches 
the  Colorado  has  a  general  eonrse  from  the  north- 
east to  the  south-west,  of  TOO  ■"•''■s  lo  the  head  of 
the  (Jull  of  Calilornia.  Kour  nnndred  of  this  700 
miles  is  an  almost  imbroken  chasm  of  kenyon — 
with  perpciuiiciilar  sides  Imndicdsof  feel  in  liigbt, 
at  the  iKittoni  of  which  the  waters  rush  over  con- 
limioiis  cascades.  This  kenvon  terminales  .10 
miles  above  the  (iiilf.  To  this  jxiini  the  river  is 
navigable.  The  country  on  each  side  ol  its  whole 
course  is  a  rolling  desert  of  brown  Ioobc  earth,  on 
which  the  rains  and  dews  never  fall. 

-\  few  years  since,  two  Catholic  ^lissionariesand 
their  servants,  on  their  way  from  the  mountains  !o 
Caliiornia.  atteni])ted  lo  desee:id  Ihe  Color,- i_.  >. 
They  have  never  been  seen  since  Ihe  morning  lliev 
eomnienced  their  fatal  undertaking.  A  party  of 
iLijipcrs  and  others  made  a  strong  boat  and  manned 
it  well,  with  Ihe  di  Icrminalion  ot  tloaling  down  the 
river  to  laki  the  beaver  that  they  supposed  lived 
along  its  banks.  IJut  tiny  found  themselves  in 
such  d.inger  alter  entering  the  kenyon.  that  with 
might  anil  main  they  thrust  their  trembling  boat 
ashore  and  sueeecded  in  leajiing  upon  the  crags 
and  lightening  it  helore  it  was  swallowed  in  the 
dashing  torrent.  Jiul  the  dealli  which  they  had 
eseajicd  in  the  stream,  still  tbrcalened  them  on 
the  crags.  I'cqieiidicniar  and  overhanging  rocks 
frowned  above  them  ;  these  they  could  not  ascend  ; 
they  could  not  cross  the  river;  they  could  not  as- 
ceiid  the  river,  and  the  I6:unmg  cascades  below 
furUadu  the  thought  of  coianutting  thcmsclvca 


Hi 


Pavels  in  the  (^reat  Weitem  Prairies, 


Bjrain  to  tlirir  lioat.  Nicht  cnnie  on,  and  flic 
(lifficiill  y  of  kpopinji  Ihoir  l)oat  lioiii  Ixiiicf  biokrn 
to  pit'ccs  on  tlu'  rocks,  inrroascd  tlio  anxiotirs  of 
tluir  situation.  Tliej'  must  have  |)asscd  a  liorri. 
ble  night, — so  full  of  fearful  cxpcctalions,  of  Ihf 
rrrtainty  of  Btarvation  on  the  rrags,  or  drowniu;; 
in  the  Ptrrani.  In  the  iiioniinij,  however,  they 
examined  the  roeks  a^aiM,  and  I'ound  a  small  pro. 
jeeting  crap,  some  2(1  feet  aliove  Ihem,  over  which, 
after  many  eflbrlH,  they  threw  their  small  hoat-rope 
and  drew  the  noose  tau^rht.  One  of  the  nuniher 
then  climlx'd  to  explori'.  lie  found  a  p'atform 
above  the  crag,  of  sullieirnt  size  to  contain  his  six 
companions,  and  a  narrow  chasm  in  the  over- 
hanging wall,  through  which  it  appeared  possible 
to  pass  to  the  upper  surface.  Having  all  reached 
the  platform,  they  indooscd  their  lassoo,  and, 
bracing  themselves  as  well  as  they  could,  with 
their  rilles  in  the  moving,  dry  earth  benealh  tlii'ir 
feet,  Ihc)'  undertook  the  iisccut.  It  was  so  sleep 
that  thev  were  ofUii  in  danger  of  being  plunged 
togetiier  in  the  abyss  bclriw.  Hut  by  digging 
steps  in  the  rocks,  where  tliey  could  be  dug  with 
their  rifle-barrels,  and  by  making  use  of  their 
lassf)0  where  it  could  be  used,  they  reached  the 
upper  surface  near  simsil,  anii  made  their  way 
back  to  the  place  of  depart\ire.  The  .above  is  a 
mnnntaiii-legend,  interesting  indeed,  but 

"  I  cannot  Icll  lin*'  tlip  Irulli  mny  I)p, 
J  tell  till'  talc  an 't  wa-.  loKl  to  nie." 

At  day-light,  on  the  'fOlii,  oiu'  cavalcade  was 
moving  across  the  woody  ridges  and  verdant  val- 
leys between  the  crossings  of  (irand  River  anil  its 
great  north  fork.  \Vi'  struck  that  stream  alxjut 
JO  o'clock.  Its  water  was  beautil'ully  clear, — 
average  depth  'J  feet,  and  current  4  miles  the 
hour.  It  is  said  to  take  its  rise  in  the  moimtains, 
near  the  south  side  of  the  '(Ircat  0;ip,'  and  to 
flow,  in  a  soulb-westerly  course,  through  a  country 
td' broken  and  barren  plains,  into  (Jraiul  River,  i2d 
miles  lielow  the  crossings.  We  ascended  rapidly 
all  the  day.  'I'here  was  no  tiiil  to  guide  ns  ;  but 
our  worthy  guide  knew  every  moimtain-top  in 
Bight.  Itee  lines  through  immens'-  fields  of  wild 
Hage  and  wormwood,  and  over  gravelly  plains — a 
short  halt  for  a  short  breakfast — a  constant  spur- 
ring, and  trotting,  and  driving,  deposited  tis  at 
sunset  at  the  loot  of  a  lofty  inoimtain,  clothed 
with  heavy  timber.  It  was  the  dividing  ridgi 
bclween  the  waters  of  (irand  and  (Jreen  Rivers. 
\\'e  must  crops  it.  We  therefore  turned  out  the 
animals  to  feed — ate  a  scanty  morsel  of  dried 
meat,  and  went  to  our  couches,  for  the  strength 
re<|\iisite  for  the  task.  .\l)out  the  middle  of  the 
night  the  panthers  on  the  mountain  gave  ns  a 
spccinion  of  their  growling  capacities.  It  was  a 
liideouB  noise  :  lUrp  and  broken  by  the  most  im. 
earthly  Bcreamsl  They  were  gathering  for  prey; 
for  our  horses  and  ourst  Ives.  We  drove  up  the 
animals,  however,  tied  them  near  the  camp,  built 
II  large  ami  bright  (ire,  and  slept  till  daylight. 

At  simrise,  on  the  inorning  of  the  ,'tlsl,  we  stood 
on  thcBuniniitof  Ihemounlain,  at  the  base  of  which 
we  had  slept  the  previous  night.  It  was  the  very 
place  from  which  I  wished  to  view  the  outline  (if 
the  valley  of  (irand  River,  and  the  snoWy  ridge  of 
the  Analiuac.  And  it  was  as  favorable  an  hour 
for  my  piiriHise  -.s  I  eoidd  have  seleeteil  from  the 
whole  day.  Thu  biut  liad  just  risen  over  the  eoBtem 


bights,  sufficiently  to  give  the  valley  of  the  Grand 
Uiver  to  the  south-east  of  me,  those  strong  con- 
trasts of  light  and  shade  which  painters  know  bo 
well  how  to  i;se  when  sketching  a  mountain, 
scene  at  early  morning,  or  wlien  the  Bim  is  half 
hiildcn  at  night.  The  peaks  were  bright,  the, 
deep  shadows  sprang  <dl"  from  the  western  sides, 
above  faintly,  and  deeixning  as  they  dcBcended  to 
the  bases,  \yhere  the  <leep  brown  of  the  roeks  and 
earth  gave  the  vales  the  semblance  of  uudisturiM  d 
night.  The  depression  of  the  valley,  as  I  have 
termed  it,  was  in  truth  a  depression  of  a  vast  tract 
of  mountains  ;  nol  unto  a  plain  or  vale ;  but  a  great 
ravine  of  bules  and  ridgi'S,  decreasing  in  bight  from 
the  limitof  vision  in  Ihe north-east, eastand  south— 
and  falling  one  below  another  toward  the  stream, 
into  Ihe  diniimitivc  bluflfi  on  its  banks.  The  val- 
ley below  the  crossing  was  less  distinctly  seen.  Its 
general  course  only  could  be  dislinguished  among 
the  bare  hills  upon  its  borders.  Rut  Ihe  grt^at  main 
chain,  or  Aualuiae  range,  came  sweeping  up  from 
the  -Arkansas  more  sublime,  if  possible,  in  its  aspcci 
than  will  Ti  viewed  from  Ihe  bights  farther  south. 
It  was  aliout  100  miles  dislant,  the  length  of  the 
section  in  view  about  Hill  ;  not  a  speck  on  all  ils 
vast  outline.  It  did  nol  show  as  glaciers  do;  but 
like  a  drift  of  newly-falk  ii  snow  heaped  (/ii  moun- 
tains— by  some  mighty  eni)rlsof  the  elements ;  piled 
from  age  to  age  ;  and  from  day  to  day  widening  and 
highlening  ils  untold  diineusiims.  Its  \yi(llh,  ils 
bight,  its  cubic  milis,  its  mass  of  rock,  of  earth,  of 
snow,  of  ice,  of  waters  ascending  in  clouds  to 
shower  the  lowl.inds  or  renew  its  own  robes  of 
frosts,  of  waters  sent  rushing  to  the  seas,  are  some 
of  the  vast  ilenis  of  this  sublimity  of  existence. 
The  light  of  the  rising  sun  falling  upon  it  through 
the  reniarkably  trans])arent  atmosphere  of  these  re- 
gions, madi'  Ihe  view  exceedingly  distinct.  The 
inlerveuing  space  was  thickly  tlottcti  with  lesser 
peaks,  which,  in  the  lengthened  distance,  melted 
into  an  apparent  plain.  Itiit  the  elevation  of  the 
great  .Vnahuac  ridge,  iircsenting  its  broad,  while 
side  to  Ihe  morning  light  in  that  dry,  clear,  upper 
air,  seemed  as  dislinctly  se<  n  as  the  tree  at  my 
side.  An  immensity  leaning  on  the  vault  of 
heaven  !  In  the  north-west  it  manifestly  trended 
toward  the  north  did  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 
Hut  I  must  leave  this  absorbing  scene  for  the 
journey  of  the  ilay.  The  asci  nt  of  the  dividing 
ridge,  from  which  I  look  this  extensive  survey  of  all 
this  vast,  iinknown,iinexplored  portion  of  the  moim- 
tains, was  comparatively  easy.  We  threaded,  in. 
deed,  some  half-dozen  |)reci|)ices  in  going  up,  within 
an  inch  of  graves  TiOO  feet  deep.  Yet,  as  none  of 
us  lost  our  brains  on  the  rocks  below,  these  nar- 
row and  slippery  jialbs  caimot  be  remembered  in 
connection  with  incidents  either  remarkable  or  sad. 
With  this  notice  of  mountain  tunipikes,  I  will 
lie  obliged  to  my  readers  to  step  along  with  me 
over  the  Inild  smmnit  and  look  at  the  descent, 
yes,  the  drurfiil,  my  friends.  It  is  ii  lH>ld  one  : 
one  of  the  men  saicf  "  four  miles  of  perpendicu- 
lar ;"  and  so  it  was.  Or  if  it  was  not.  it  ought 
to  have  been,  for  many  very  good  reasons  of 
mathematical  propriely  that  "are  as  ditficult  to 
write  us  to  eomprelicnd.  It  was  partially 
covered  with  bushes  and  t.ecB,  and  a  soft  vegeta- 
ble  mould  that  yielded  to  our  horses"  Itet,  but  we,  by 
dint  of  holding,  bracing,  and  sliding,  arrived  safe, 
ly  at  the  bottom,  and  joggcU  on  merrily  lix  or 


in  the  RocJcy  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  S^r. 


53 


KCvcn  miles  over  barren  rirfircs,  rich  plains,  nnd 
woody  hills  to  the  head  of  'riiinlilcton  park.  Wc 
had  turned  out  our  animals  to  rat,  hung  our 
camp-kettle  over  the  fire  to  Iwil  some  hits  of  (jris- 
ly  meat  tliat  we  had  found  anionfr  the  ruhl)ish  of 
our  packs,  and  wero  resting  our  wearied  frames 
in  the  shade  of  the  willows,  conversiiiaf  about  the 
tracks  which  wc  had  seen  five  miles  back  ;  one 
BUi)poBiii;r  that  they  were  made  by  Indians,  the 
Arrapuhoes  or  the  IShoshonieH,  while  our  old  jjnidc 
insisted  that  they  were  mai'o  by  while  men's  hor- 
ses ;  and  assigned  as  a  reason  for  this  opinion, 
that  no  Indians  could  be  traveling  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  that  one  of  the  horses  had  shoes  on  its 
fore  feet ;  when  tlic  Arrai)ahoe  war-whoop  and 
tlio  clattering  of  liooft  U|wn  the  side  hill  alwne, 
brought  us  to  our  feet,  rifle  in  liand,  for  a  conflict. 
Kelley  swmed  for  a  moment  be  in  doubt  !.s  to  his 
own  coneluHions  relative  to  the  tracks,  and  as  to 
the  color  of  those  unceremonious  visiters.  Hut  as 
they  dashed  up,  he  leaped  tlie  brook,  and  seized 
the  hands  of  three  old  fellow-trappers.  It  was  a 
joyful  meeting.  They  hail  often  stood  side  by 
side  ,1  battle;  and  among  the  solemn  mountains 
dug  the  lonely  grave  of  some  slaughtered  com- 
panion ;  and  together  sent  the  avenging  lead  into 
the  hearts  of  the  Hlackfeet.  'I'Ik  y  were  more 
than  brothers,  and  so  they  met.  \\\:  shared  with 
them  our  last  scraps  of  nu'at. 

They  ijiformed  \ib  that  they  had  fallen  in  with 
our  trail,  and  followed  us  umler  a  Ixlicf  that  we 
were  certain  friends  whom  they  were  ex|>ecting 
from  St.  Louis  with  goods  Im  llir  post  at  Hrown's 
Hole  ;  that  the  Arrapahocs  uin>  lain  iiuig  on  l.ii). 
falo  in  the  Bull  Pen.  on  the  north  fork  of  the 
Platte  ;  (hat  the  Imiiiesor  Snakes  were  starv- 

ing on  roots  on  (  Hear  River  ;  that  the  Blaek- 

fc"'  and  Sioux  wir.  ni  the  iieighliorhiMiil  ;  that 
there  was  no  game  m  the  iiiountaiiii  t  xeipt  on 
the  head-waters  of  Snake  Kiver;  ;i!i.|  that  them, 
selves  were  a  [jortion  of  a  parly  •■  >iliile  men,  In- 
dians, and  squaws,  on  their  way  to  B'  iifs  Fort 
(m  the  Arkansas,  to  meet  Mr.  Thomps'i,  uilh  the 
goodf  iK'fore  named  ;  that  we  might  reasou:ibly 
anticipate  starvation  and  the  arrows  oftheSiou.x. 
nnd  other  kindred  comforts  along  our  journey  to 
Brown's  Hole.  Air.  Craig,  tbe  cliiel  ol  the  party, 
and  i)art  ownier  with  Mr.  Thompson,  assured  iV* 
that  the  grass  on  the  ( 'oluiuhia  was  already  dr\ 
and  scarce  ;  and  if  there  should  prove  to  be  ciiougli 
to  sustain  our  horses  on  the  way  down,  that  the 
snows  on  the  Blue  Mountains  would  prevent  us 
from  reaching  Vancouver  Idl  the  .spring,  uiul 
kindly  invited  us  to  j)ass  the  wuiter  at  bis  Post. 
After  two  hours'  tarry  with  us  he  and  his  party 
returned  to  their  cain|(. 

Tuinbletoirn  I'ark  is  a  beautiful  savannah, 
Htrelching  norllnveslerly  from  our  camp  in  an  ir- 
regular manner  aiiiong  groves  of  pine,  spruce,  fir, 
and  oak.  Three  bundri'd  yards  from  us  rose 
Tumblcton's  Koek,  one  of  those  singular  spir<'s 
found  in  the  valley  of  the  mountains,  called 
Uutes.  It  was  alniut  HI)  feet  in  bight,  iii)  in  di- 
ameter at  the  Ikisc.  and  terminatiMl  at  the  toj)  in 
a  pohit.  Soon  after  our  new  ae()uaintaui'es  ha<l 
left  us,  we  "  caught  up"  .and  struck  across  the 
hills  in  a  north-easlerly  course  toward  ibe  north 
fork  of  Little  Hear  River.  'I'he  traveling  was 
very  rough,  now  among  fields  of  loose  stones  and 
bittUca,  und  now  among  Uenec  I'orcBtH ;  no  truU  to 


aid  us  in  finding  the  way ;  new  ground  even  to 
our  guide.  But  he  was  infallible.  Two  hours' 
riding  had  brought  us  upon  an  Indian  trail  th.at 
he  had  heard  of  ten  years  before ;  and  on  we  rushed, 
reader,  among  the  fallen  pines,  two  feet,  three 
feet  in  diameter,  raised,  as  you  see.  one  foot,  two 
feet  from  the  ground.  The  horses  and  mules  are 
testing  their  leaping  powers.  Over  they  go,  nnd 
tip  ofF  riders  and  packs,  A,c.,  &,c.  A  merry  tinu) 
this.  There  goes  my  Puebla  mare,  bead,  heels, 
and  neck,  into  an  acre  of  cravy  logs.  Ho,  halt  ! 
Puebla's  down,  mortally  wounib'd  \vith  w.mt  of 
strength  I  She  's  unpacked,  and  out  in  a  trico  ; 
we  move  again.  Ho  I  whistle  that  mule  into  the 
track!  he'll  be  ofT  that  ledge  there.  Move  them 
on  I  move  I  cut  down  that  sapling  by  the  low  part 
of  that  fallen  tree  !  drive  over  Puebla  !  Thcro 
she  goes  !  long  legs  a  benefit  in  bestriding  forests. 
Hold  !  hold  !  hold  I  that  paek-horsc  yonder  has 
anchored  upon  a  pine  !  Dismount  !  back  her  out  I 
she  has  hung  one  side  of  herself  and  pack  upon 
that  knot  I  away  I  ho  !  But  silence  !  a  deer 
si)i"ing8  up  in  yonder  thicket  I  Kelly  creeps  forward 
—halt!  hush!  Iiii— !  Ah!  tbe  varlet!  he  is 
gone  ;  a  murrain  on  his  fat  loins  !  a  poor  sui)per 
we  'II  have  to-night  !  no  meat  left,  reader,  not  a 
particle  ;  nor  eolTee,  tea,  nor  salt !  custom  of  socie- 
ty here  to  starve !  suppose  you  will  conform ! 
.Stay,  here  "s  trouble!  but  they  move  I  one  goes 
down  well  !  another,  another,  and  another  !  .My 
PiK'bla  mare,  reader,  that  si.x  foot  frame  standing 
there,  hesitating  lo  desi-end  that  narrow  track 
around  the  precipice!  she  goes  over  it!  bravely 
done  !  A  ten  feet  Iea|) !  and  pack  and  all  stuck 
in  the  mud.  That  mule,  uls<i,  is  down  in  tho 
(luagmin- !  a  lift  at  the  pack  there,  man  I  the  ae. 
tive,  tireless  creature  !  he  's  up  and  oil'.  (Jiiide, 
this  forest  is  .  mill  >  !  sha'  n't  get  out  to-night.  But 
here  we  go  nrr  I y  onward  !  It  is  dark  eu'  igli 
lor  the  lro;;~  "f  Kgypt  !  Halt  I  halt  I  ho  I  I'uc. 
hie  down  again — laid  out  among  th>'  logs  !  Pull 
.aw  I  upon  that  pack  there,  man  1  In  l|>  tbe  sinner 
to  hi  I  teet  again  lor  aiiolber  attempt  to  kill  herself, 
lii'autilul  pirns,  tirs,  and  bemlocks.  'luse.  reader; 
but  a  sa-1  '<i  hurrieanis  has  In  en  let  lfH)B(! 
among  iIki  .  U'li  lung  siiu'c.  The  prostrate  shiii- 
;lc  timber,  "h  '  'I  would  cover  a  ro(jf  over  the  city 
il  London  ;  and  make  a  railroad  to  run  the. 
Thames  into  Holland.  H.ilt  !  halt!  unpack! 
we  e:niip  hi  re  lo-nigbt.  .\  litlle  prairie  Ibis,  eiii- 
biisomiil,  nesUi'd.  ktc,  among  the  swert  evergreen 
wiK)dlanils.  \\  ait  a  little  now,  reader,  till  we 
turn  In  ■•  animals  loose  to  feed,  aiul  we  "11  strike 
UM  n-  when  withal  to  dry  your  wet  garments, 
.iisperst^  a  portion  of  Ibis  darkness.  It  is  dif- 
ii'iill  kindling  this  wil  bark.  Jnsepli,  sing  a 
song!  titiil  a  hollow  tree!  get  some  dry  leaves  ! 
Thai  horse  is  making  into  the  forest '  better 
tie  him  to  a  bough  !  That  's  it;  .losepli  !  that's  a 
yoillhful  bla/e  I  give  it  slii'iiglli !  fied  it  oxygen  ! 
it  grows  !  Now  for  our  guest.  Seat  yourself,  sir, 
on  that  log  !  rather  damp  eniufort !  the  best  we 
have  I  homespun  fare!  the  ton  of  the  eountry  ! 
We're  in  the  iiriineval  stale,  sir,  where  the  wjul 
goes  back  to  its  elemeiit-ary  impulses — to  the  re- 
pos<'  of  tirst  priiieiples.  We  regret  our  inability 
lo  furnish  you  food,  sir.  But  as  we  have  not.  for 
the  la.st  lew  days,  indulged  much  in  that  merely 
animal  gralillcation,  we  beg  you,  sir,  to  aceom. 
niodato  yuuriulf  with  a  disli  of  xransccndeiUal- 


ism  ;  and  wltli  us  nwait  palionlly  a  liroilcd  steak,  I 
a  lew  days  aloinj  ilic  track  of  time  to  conic.  j, 

It  was  1(1  o'clock  at  niglit  wlicn  wc  arrived  at : 
this  cnnanipniont.     It   had  been   raining  in   tor.  \, 
rents  ever   since   nij,rlit.lall.     The   rippiinfr   of  a  j, 
small  stream  had    fiuided    us   after   the  darkness  I 
shut   in.     Drenched   with    rain,   shivering   with  , 
cold,  destitute  of  lijo<l,  aiul  with   the    appetite  of 
wolves,  we  availed  oursi  Ives  of  the  only  comforts  ij 
within  our  reach — a  cheering  pinc-knot    lire,  and 
such  slee])  as  wc  could  gel    under   the  open  hea- 
vens in  a  pelting  slorni.     The  general  face  of  the  ' 
country  through  which  the  afternoon's  travel  had 
carried  us,  was  much    broken  ;  hut   the  incquali- 
licH  or  hills  and  valley",  to  n  very  considerahleex- (; 
lent,  were  covered  with    a  rich   vegetable   loam,  '\ 
supporting  a  heavy  growth  of  pine,   spruce,  (jua.  li 
king-asp,  vVc.     The  gliiden   that  iutervened  were 
more  beautiful  than  I  had  seen.     i\I any  were  cov-  [' 
ercd  with  a   heavy   growth    of  timothy   or  herds 
grass,  and  red    to|>   in    blos.'^om.     Large  tracts  in  i; 
the  skirts  of  the    tindjcr   were    thickly   set    with 
.^weet-sicily.    The  mountain  tiax,  was  very  abun- 
dant-    I  had  previously  seen  it    in  small  patches 
only  ;  but  here  it  covered  acres   as   densely  as  it 
\isually  stands  in  liilds,  and  presented  the  beauti- 
ful sheet  of  blue  blossoms  so  grateful   to  the  lords 
of  the  plough.      I  had  noticed  some  days  previous, 
a  few  blades  of  the  grasses  just    named,  standing 
in  a  clump  of  bushes;  but  we  were  riding  rapidly, 
and  coidd  not  slop  to   examine   them    and  I  was 
disposcd^o  think  that  my  sight  had  deceived  me. , 
What !  the  tame    grasses  of  Kuro|)e,    all  that  are  j 
valuable  for  stock,  the   best   and   most  sought  by  >j 
every  intelligent    farmer    in    Christciulom ;  these  ; 
indigenous  to  '.!ic  vales  of  the  Uocky  mountains  .'  . 
It  was  even  so. 

August  1st.     As  oiu'  horses  had    found  little  to 
eat  during  the  pa.st  night,  and  seemed  nmeh  worn 
by  the  exceeding  fatigues  of  the  previous  day,  we. 
at  early  dawn,  drew  them  around  our  camp,  loaded 
the  strongest  of  ihcJU  with  our  packs,  and  led  and 
<lrove  the  poor  animals  tlirongli  thr<  c    miles  more 
of  standing    and    fallen    lind>er,  to    tin    opening 
on  Little  Bear  River,   and    turned    them  loose  to 
feed  upon  the  first  good  grass  that  we  l'o\nnl.     It 
chanced  to  be  in  one  of  Kelly's  old  ini'ampmenls  ; 
where  he  had,  some  years  before,  I'ortitied  himself: 
with  logs,  and  remained  7  days  with  a  sick  fellow' 
trapper.     At  that  lime,  the  valley    was  alive  with 
hostile  Indians  ;  but  the  groal  man  valued  the  hf)- 
ly  jirinciples  of  humanity  more  than    his  life,  and 
readily  put  it  at    hazard  lo    save  that  of  his  com- 
|>anion.     "A    fearful    time    that,"    said  he    "the; 
redskij'S  saw  every  tuni  olour  heads  during  those 
seven  days  mnl  nights.      liut   I    bailed  our  horses  : 
within  reach  of  my  .lifle   during  the  day,  and  put 
them  in  thai  pen  at  night  ;  so  that  tin  y  could  not ; 
rush  them  otr,  without  losing   their  brains.     The|! 
buft'alo  were  j)lenty   In  !■    then.     The    mountains 
were  then  r  h.     Why,  s.r,  the  bulla  were  so  bold 
that  they  would  come  ilnso  to  the    fc nee  there  at 
night,   and  bellow  and    roar    tdl    I  eased    tlnin  of  i 
their  blood  by  ;i  pill  of  lead  in    the  liver.     So  you  I 
Bcc  I  did  not  go  tar  ler    meat.     Now,    the  moun-  ■ 
tains  arc  so   |K)or  ImiI   one    would   stand  aright 
pood   chance   of  sl.iring   if  he    were   obliged  to 
hang  up  here    for   seven    days.     The  game  is  all 
driven  out.     No  plaee'here  for  u  white  num  now. 
Too  poor,  too  poor.     \N'hat  little  wc   get,  you  sec 


is  bull  beef,  Forni(!rly,  wc  ate  notliing  but  cows, 
fat  and  young.  ]\Iore  danger  then  to  be  sure  ; 
but  more  beaver  too  ;  and  plenty  of  grease  about 
the  bufl'alo  ribs.  Ah  I  those  were  good  times ; 
but  a  white  m.-ui  has  now  no  more  business  lierc." 

Our  general  course  since  entering  the  moun- 
tains  at  the  Arkansas,  had  been  north  by  west. — 
It  now  changed  to  northwest  by  north. 

Our  horses  and  nmles,  having  eaten  to  their  Bat- 
isfaction  the  rich  gras,s  about  our  guide's  old  en- 
canijjinent,  we  moved  on  down  laltle  TivM  River. 
The  country,  as  we  descended,  became  more  and 
more  barren.  The  hills  wi'rc  destitute  of  timber 
and  the  grasses;  thejilains  bore  nothing  but  prick- 
ly pear  and  wild  wormwood.  The  latter  is  u 
slirub  growing  from  2  to  (>  feet  in  hight.  It 
branches  in  all  directions  from  the  root.  Tiie 
main  stem  is  from  'J  to  4  inches  in  diameter  at 
the  ground,  the  bark  rough,  of  a  light  greyish  col 
or  and  very  thin.  The  wood  is  firm,  fine  grained, 
and  difiicillt  to  break.  The  leaves  arc  larger,  but 
resemble  in  form  and  color  those  of  the  common 
woriiuvof>d  of  the  g.irdens.  The  flavor  is  that  of 
a  compound  of  garden  wormwood  and  sage : 
hence  it  has  received  the  names  of  "  wild  worm, 
wood  and  "  wild  sage.''  Its  stiff  and  knotty 
branches  are  peculiarly  unpleasant  to  the  traveler 
among  them.  It  stands  so  thickly  over  thousands 
of  acres  of  the  mountain  vallics  that  it  is  well 
nigh  impossible  to  urge  a  horse  through  it ;  and 
the  individual  who  is  rash  enough  to  attempt 
it,  will  'umself.  be  likely  to  be  deprived  of  his 
moccasins,  and  his  horse  of  his  natural  covering 
of  his  legs.  There  are  two  species  of  the  prickly 
pear  (cactus)  here.  The  one  is  Ihc  plant  of  low 
growth,  thick  eliptical  leaves  armed  with  thorns, 
the  same  as  is  foi.nd  in  the  gardens  of  certain  cu- 
rious people  in  the  .States.  'I'hc  other  is  of  higher 
growth,  olten  reaching  .3  feet.  The  color  is  a 
deep  green.  Il  is  a  coluumar  plant  without  a  leaf; 
.he  surface  of  Ihc  stalk  is  checked  into  diamondB 
of  the  most  perfect  proijort  ions,  swelling  regularly 
from  the  side«  to  the  centre.  At  the  comers  of 
these  figures  grr>w  stnaig  thorns  from  an  inch  to 
an  inch  and  a  '  df  in  length.  Six  inches 
from  the  grotin  .,  branches  shoot  irom  the 
parent  st.dk  in  all  directions,  making  an  angle 
with  it,  of  about  l.")  degrees,  and  growing  shorter 
as  the  point  of  union  with  the  central  st.alk  in- 
creases in  height.  The  coiisislency  of  the  whole 
plant  is  .dternalcly  puljiy  and  fibrous.  We  were 
making  our  tedious  way  among  these  tiioniy  com- 
panioiis,  nmsing  upon  our  emply  stomachs,  when 
we  were  overtaken  by  two  men,  a  scpiaw  and 
child,  fro|i  ("raig'sjparty.  They  made  their  camp 
with  us  at  higlil.  .N'olhiug  to  eat,  sturviiig  and 
weak,  wc  followed  the  example  of  the  s(piaw,  in 
eating  the  inner  portion  of  large  thistle  stalks. 

L'd.  A\e  ros(!  at  daybreak,  sonunvhat  refreshed 
by  sleep,  but  weak,  weak,  h.iving  eaten  but  little 
for  four  days.  The  longings  of  appetite — they 
are  horrible  1  Our  guide  was  use<l  to  long  fasts, 
and  was,  Iherefore.  little  incommoded.  He,  how- 
ever, had  b(  1  u  out  with  his  rille,  since  the  peep  of 
day,  and  as  wc  were  lifting  the  i)ackB  upon  our 
mules,  it  cracked  in  the  direction  of  the  trail  we 
Were  about  to  travel.  We  h  stened  away  to  him 
with  the  eagerness  of  starving  men,  and  found 
bini  resting  uueoucernedly  upon  his  rille,  wailing 
lor  us  to  enjoy  witli  liiui  tlic  roasted  loins  of  an 


iu  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  Sfv. 


5S 


elk,  which  had  tumblod  from  a  ncighborinij  cliff, 
ill  obedience  to  hisimorriiiff  aim.  Lrivinfj  his  sud- 
dlc-lioise  to  pack  the  meat  on,  our  little  eavnlcade 
pissed  aloiifj  a  m'le,  and  encani|ii;d  among  the 
willows  on  the  bank  of  Little  Bear  Iliv-r.  'l"he 
first  work,  alter  turninjj  lof)se  our  animals,  was  to 
Iniild  a  fire  to  cook  meat.  Our  squaw  companion 
thou'^ht  otherwiRc.  She  selected  a  place  for  her 
camp  beneath  the  willows,  cleared  a  spot  wide 
enough  lor  her  bed,  formed  an  arch  of  the  Imuijlis 
overhead,  covered  it  with  apiece  of  bufTa.o  tent 
leather,  unloosed  her  infant  from  its  prison,  and 
laid  it  upon  skins  in  the  shade  she  had  formed. 
After  this,  the  horses  of  herself  and  husband  were 
unharnessed  and  turned  loose  to  feed.  .She  'vas  a 
pood,  cleanly,  afTectionate  body,  equall3-  devoted 
lo  the  happiness  of  her  child,  husband,  and  horses  ; 
and  seemed  disposed  lo  initiate  us  into  every  little 
piece  of  knowleilu'C  that  would  enable  us  to  dis- 
cover the  wild  edible  roots  of  the  country,  the  best 
method  of  taking  fish,  hoppling  horses,  Iving 
knols  in  ropes,  repairincr  saddles.  &c.,  which  e.v- 
jierience  had  taught  her.  Our  lire  had  just  began 
to  burn  brightly,  when  our  guide  arrived  with  Ihe 
elk.  It  was  very  much  '  ruised  by  it.s  fall  from 
the  cliir  when  shot.  Yet  it  was  meat  ;  it  was 
broiled  ;  it  was  eaten  ;  it  w.is  sweet.  \o  bread, 
or  vegetables,  or  salt,  to  the  contrary,  it  was  deli. 
ciouB.  Four  days'  fasting  is  confessed  to  be  an 
excellent  panacea  for  a  bad  appetite  ;  and  as  all 
good  and  wholesome  rules  work  lK)th  ways,  it  is, 
without  doubt,  a  tii.itefiil  addition  to  bad  fofjd.  I 
must,  however,  bear  my  humbl(>  testimony  to  the 
fact  that  meat  alone,  unqualitied  with  gravy,  un. 
sprinkled  with  salt  or  pepper,  unaided  by  any  veg. 
etablc  or  farinacious  aceompaniment.  is  excellent 
food  for  men.  It  neither  makes  them  tigtrsnor 
crocodiles.  On  the  contrary,  it  prevents  starva. 
lion  when  nothing  else  can  be  had,  and  cultivates 
industry,  the  parent  of  virtue.  In  all  the  multiplied 
departments  of  the  gastric  svstcm. 

3d.  IJemained  in  camp  all  dav  to  refresh  our 
animals,  to  eat,  and  hear  yanis  of  mountain  life. 
During  these  conversations,  the  great  dangers  of 
u  residence  among  the  mountains  was  often  re. 
verted  to.  One  class  of  them,  was  sai<l  to  arise 
from  the  increasing  scarcity  of  buffalo  and  beaver 
among  them.  This  cireuinstaace  compelled  the 
trappers  to  rove  over  a  wider  range  of  country, 
and,  by  consequence,  multiplied  the  chances  of 
of  falling  in  witli  th.'  !Siou.\  and  Hlackfeet,  their 
deadliest  enemies — enemies  on  whom  no  de))en- 
dinee  could  be  placed  other  than  this,  that  they 
always  fight  well  whenever  and  wherever  met. 
Our  new  friends  related,  in  this  connexion,  the 
death  of  one  of  their  old  compajiions,  a  brave  old 
trapi)er  by  the  name  of  Redman.  This  man,  and 
anolher  called  MarkhCad,  weic  (rapping  on  the 
head-waters  of  (Jreen  River,  when  tliey  were  dis. 
covered  by  a  war  party  of  youiif;  S'ouv,  and 
robbed  of  their  horses.  'I'liis  was  a  grea' annoy, 
anee  to  tliem.  The  loss  of  the  value  of  llnir  ani- 
mals was  inconvenient  for  the  pior  men  ;  but  the 
loss  of  their  services  iu  transporting  tluir  traps 
and  furs,  and  "  pos.sibles.  "  (clothing,  cooking 
niensils,  4c.,)  was  Bovereiy  felt.  They  must  re- 
cover them  or  "  rarhe  ,•"  that  is,  burv  iii  some  se. 
eret  place  in  the  dry  sanil  their  remauiing  proper- 
ty ;  forsake  their  hunt,  and  abandon  all  their 
prospects  of  gain  for  the  season.    Redman  had 


\r. 


lived  with  the  Sioux,  and  relying  on  their  fonncr 
friendshi])  for  him  in  their  village,  dotcnnlncd  to 
go  with  Markhcad  and  attempt  to  reason  a  Sioux 
war  party  into  a  surrender  of  their  plunder.  They 
approached  them  rifle  in  hand,  and  held  n  parley 
near  the  Pilot  Hutc.  The  ri^sult  was,  that  the  In. 
dians  demanded  and  obtained  their  rifl^-s,  dis. 
charged  them  at  their  owners,  killed  Redman  in. 
stantly,  and  severely  wounded  lilfi  companion. — 
This  occurred  in  the  S))ringof  1831). 

•1th.  We  were  early  on  route  this  morning, 
down  the  banks  of  Little  Bear  River  ;  course 
northwest.  Our  track  lay  so  low,  that  the  moun- 
tains  were  seldom  seen.  A  portion  of  the  Anahu. 
ac  ridge  in  the  southwest,  was  the  only  hight  con- 
stantly  in  view.  The  plains,  as  they  arc  called,  on 
either  side  of  the  river,  were  cut  into  vast  ravines 
and  bluffs.  In  their  side  sometimes  appeared  a 
i  thin  stratum  of  slate.  Few  other  rocky  strat.i 
were  seen  during  a  march  of  l.'i  miles.  .\l)out  12 
o'clock,  W(^  came  upon  a  cave  formed  by  the  lime- 
.stonc  and  sulphur  deposit  of  a  small  stream  that 
burst  from  a  hill,  hard  by.  The  water  had,  by  con- 
stanjt  deposit  ions,  formed  an  elevated  channel  some 
five  rods  down  the  face  of  the  hillside  ;  at  (he  ter- 
mination of  which,  it  spread  itself  over  a  circid.ar 
sirfaee  of  1,50  or  2UI)  feet  in  circumference.  In 
the  centre  of  this,  was  an  orifice,  down  which  tlie 
water  trickled  into  the  cave  below.  \a  little  of 
the  cave  could  be  .seen  from  the  ground  alwve,  my. 
self  and  two  others  attempted  to  explore  it.  Wc 
found  the  roof  hung  with  bcaiitifidly  chrystalizcd 
sulphur,  and  the  bottom  strown  with  largo  quanti- 
ties  of  the  same  material  in  a  pulverized  state. — 
The  odor  was  so  offensive,  however,  that  wc  were 
glad  to  retreat  before  w-  had  formed  a  very  perfect 
es(ima(e of  its  extent  r.ad  contents.  It  was  about 
six  rods  long,  eight  feet  wide,  and  four  feet  high. 
Near  it  were  a  number  of  warn;  springs.  On  the 
bluff,  a  few  rods  .above  it,  was  a  small  tract  of  fused 
rocks.  In  all  the  circle  of  vi.fion,  however,  there 
were  no  elevations  that  indicate  any  powerful  vol- 
canic .action  in  former  times  ;  nor  any  from  which 
these  rocks  could  have  Mimbled  or  been  thrown. 
The  warm  springs,  however,  in  the  vicinity  may, 
perhaps,  indicate  their  origin. 

The  l^ace  of  the  country  passed  to-day,  was  dry 
and  barren.  A  single  quaking  asp  tree  here  and 
there,  on  the  sterile  bottom  lauds,  and  small  strips 
of  cotton-wood,  whose  tops  jiejred  from  the  deep 
gorges  just  aliove  the  level  of  the  wonuwood  plainu, 
and  a  few  withered  patches  of  the  wild  grasses 
among  the  patched  bluffs,  present  its  whole  as- 
pect. 

The  SUP  had  nearly  set  before  we  arrived  .at  the 
d(  sired  place  of  eneainpment,  the  junction  of  the 
(wo  principal  forks  of  Little  Bear  River.  When 
within  half  a  'uile  of  it,  one  of  the  trappers  who  ha  J 
joined  us  suddenly  starti ,'.  his  horse  into  a  ijuick 
gallop  in  advance  of  the  n  si  of  tli.r  party.  We 
were  surprised  by  this  sudden  movement,  and  has. 
tened  after  bini.  As  we  rose  a  sharp  knoll,  our 
surjirise  was  changed  to  pleasure,  on  seeing  him 
in  friendly  converse  with  a  white  face,  a  fellow, 
trapper,  (me  of  the  "  white  men"  of  the  mountains. 
He  was  a  French  Canadian,  fourteen  days  from 
Brown's  Hole.  We  were  soon  across  the  river, 
and  in  bis  camp  among  the  cotton. wood.  Here 
we  found  thre<'  others  to  w<'lcome  us  and  give  us 
information  ofthc  movements  of  the  Indian».— 


They  had  been  attacked  by  a  Sioux  war  party,  a 
few  days  before,  on  Little  Snake  River,  but  bad  en. 
caped  with  no  oilier  Iobb  than  that  of  a  hat  and  fa. 
vorite  dog.  Their  opinion  wbb,  that  we  should 
have  the  plrasuru  of  niprting  them  on  their  way  to 
Brown's  Hole.  This  pro»|)cct  was  extremely  grat- 
ifying to  our  noble  old  Kentucky  guide.  "  D — n 
their  eyes,"  said  he,  "  I'll  try  to  pick  up  one  of  the 
rasciUf.  Rcd)nan  was  aa  fino  a  fellow  as  ever 
came  to  the  mountains,  and  they  sliot  liiin  with  his 
own  rifle.  He  was  a  fool  to  U'X  them  tiavc  it,  he 
ought  to  have  shot  one  of  them,  d — n  'em,  un<l  then 
died,  if  he  must." 

Our  elk  meat  was  dimiiuslmg  fast,  under  the 
kind  administration  of  our  own  and  our  friend's 
appetit«B.  And  the  certain  prospect  that  we  should 
obtain  no  more  for  8  days,  was  a  source  of  no  in- 
considerable imeasiness  to  us.  And  yet  we  gave 
Ward,  Burns,  tlic  squaw,  and  the  four  French 
trappers,  being  destitute  of  food,  as  freely  as  they 
would  have  given  to  us  imder  similar  circumstan- 
ces, the  best  piece  and  as  much  as  tliey  would  eat 
for  supper  and  breakfast.  These  solitary  French- 
men were  apparently  very  happy.  Neither  hunger 
nor  thirst  annoys  tliem,  so  long  as  they  have 
•trcngtlj  to  travel  and  trap  and  sing.  Their  camps 
are  always  merry,  and  they  cheer  themselves  along 
the  weary  march  in  the  wilderness  with  the  wild 
border  songs  of  "  Old  Canada."'  The  American 
trappers  present  a  different  phase  of  character. — 
Habitual  watchfulness  destroys  ever'  frivolity  of 
mind  and  action.  They  seldom  sr  Je  ;  the  ex- 
ptcssion  of  their  countenances  is  watchful,  solcnm 
and  determined.  They  ride  and  walk,  like  men 
whose  breasts  have  so  long  been  cxpoued  to  the 
bullet  and  arrow,  that  fear  finds  within  them  no 
resting  place.  If  a  horse  is  descried  iji  the  dis. 
tance,  they  put  spurs  to  their  animals,  and  arc  at 
his  side  at  once,  as  the  result  may  be,  for  death  or 
life.  No  delay,  no  second  thought,  no  cringing  in 
their  stirrups  ;  but  erect,  firm,  and  with  a  strong 
arm,  they  seize  and  overcome  every  danger  "  or 
perish,"  say  tliey,  "  as  white  men  should,"  fight, 
ing  promptly  and  bravely. 

5tli.  This  moming'we  were  to  part  with  Burns 
and  Ward,  and  the  French  trappers.  The  latter 
pursued  their  way  to  the  "  Old  Park,"  as  they 
called  the  valley  of  Grand  River,  in  iiursuit  of 
beaver;  the  former  \%cnt  into  the  bights  in  the 
nouthwest,  for  the  same  object,  and  the  additional 
one  of  waiting  there,  the  departure  of  the  Sioux 
and  Blackfeet.  These  Americans  had  interested 
us  in  tllemselves  by  their  frankness  and  kindness  ; 
and  before  leaving  them,  it  was  pleasant  to  know 
that  we  could  testify  our  regard  for  them,  by  in- 
orea/ring  their  scanty  stock  of  ammunition.  But 
for  evory  little  kindness  of  this  descriiition,  they 
■ought  to  remunerate  us  ten  fold  by  giving  us 
moccasins,  dressed  deer  and  elk  skins,  &.c.  Every 
tiling,  even  their  hunting  shirts  upon  their  backs, 
were  at  our  service  ; — lilways  kindly  remarking 
when  they  made  an  offer  of  such  tilings,  tliat  "the 
country  was  filled  with  skins,  and  they  could  get  a 
eupply  when  they  should  need  them."  About  10 
o'clock,  wo  bade  these  fearless  and  generous  fel- 
lows a  farewell,  as  hearty  and  honest  as  any  that 
wa«  ever  uttered  j  wishing  them  a  long  and  happy 
life  in  their  mountain  home,  and  they  us  a  plea- 
•ant  and  prosperous  journey,  and  took  up  our 
marcli  again,  down  little  Bear  River  for  Brown's 


Hole.  It  was  six  or  eight "  c^inps"  or  day's  travel 
ahead  of  us  ;  the  way  Infested  with  hostile  Indians 
— destitute  of  game  and  grass ;  a  horrid  journey  ! 
We  might  oscai>c  the  Sioux  ;  we  might  kill  one 
of  our  horses  and  so  escape  death  by  starvation  ! 
But  these  few  chances  of  saving  our  lives  worn 
enough.  Dangers  of  these  kinds  were  not  so  ap- 
palling to  us  then,  as  they  would  liave  lieen  when 
leaving  the  frontier.  AVe  had  been  (iO  odd  days 
among  the  fresh  trails  of  hostile  tribes,  in  hourly 
expectation  of  licaring  the  war  whoop  raised 
around  us  ;  and  certain,  that  if  attacked  by  a  war. 
party  of  the  ordinary  number,  we  should  be  dcs. 
troycd.  We  had  however  crept  upon  every  bight 
which  we  had  crossed,  with  so  much  caution,  and 
examined  the  plains  below  with  ho  much  care ;  and 
when  danger  apjieared  near,  wound  our  way 
among  the  timber  and  bights  till  we  had  passed 
it,  with  so  mucli  success,  that  our  sens);  of  danger 
was  blmitcil  to  that  degree,  and  our  confidence  in 
our  ability  to  avoid  it  ho  great,  that  I  verily  be- 
lieve we  thought  as  little  of  Indians  as  we  did  of 
the  li/ards  along  our  track. 

We  still  clung  to  the  stream.  It  was  generally 
about  50  yards  wide,  a  rapid  current  6  inches  deep, 
rushing  over  a  bed  of  loose  rocks  and  gravel,  and 
falling  at  the  rate  of  about  'JOG  feet  to  the  mile. — 
During  the  day  a  grisly  bear  and  three  cubs  and 
an  elk  shov.ed  theniselves.  One  of  the  men  gave 
chase  to  the  hears  with  the  intention  of  killing  one 
of  them  for  food.  But  they  eluded  his  pur- 
suit by  running  uilo  brusli  through  which  a  horso 
coulu  not  penetrate  with  sufficient  speed  to  over. 
take  them.  The  man  in  pursuit  however,  found  a 
charming  prize  among  the  brush — a  mule — an  ex- 
cellent pack  mule,that  would  doubtless  be  worth  to 
him,  at  Brown's  Hole,  $100.  It  was  feeding 
qu  etly,  and  so  tame  as  to  jiennit  liLm  to  approach 
wiil;ln  ten  yards,  without  even  raising  its  head 
over  the  liazle  bushes  that  partly  concealed  it. — 
A  double  prize  it  was,  and  so  accidental ;  obtained 
at  so  little  expense ;  ton  minutes  time  only — ten 
dollars  a  minute  !  1  But  alas  for  the  ^100":  Ho 
was  preparing  to  grasp  it,  and  tlio  muJc  most  sub. 
dcnJy — most  won(lerfully — most  cruelly  metamor- 
phosed itself  into  an  elk  1 — fat  as  marrow  itself, 
and  Hullicient  in  weight  to  have  fed  our  company 
for  12  days — and  fled  away  before  our  "  maid  and 
and  her  milk  jiail"  companion  could  shake  his 
astonished  locks,  and  send  a  little  lead  after  it  by 
way  of  entreaty  to  supply  iih  Htarviiig  wretches 
with  a  morsel  of  meat.  After  this  incident  liad 
imparted  its  comfort  to  oiu'  disappointed  appetites 
we  passtd  on,  over,  around,  in  and  among  deep 
ravines,  and  parched,  sterile  and  flinty  plains,  lor 
the  remainder  of  our  ten  miles'  march,  and  en- 
camped on  the  bunk  of  the  river.  The  last  of  our 
meat  was  licre  cooked  and  eaten.  A  sad  prospect. 
No  game  ahead,  no  provisions  in  iiossession  I  Wn 
caught  3  or  4  small  trout  from  the  river  for  break, 
fast,  and  slept.  I  was  much  debilitated  by  want 
of  food  and  the  fatigues  of  the  joiuncy.  I  had 
appropriated  my  saddle  horse  to  bear  the  packs 
that  had  been  borne  by  Kelley's  before  its  death  ; 
and  had,  consequently,  been  on  foot  ever  since  that 
event,  save  when  >y  guide  could  relieve  ine  with 
thcuscoflu3  sadulc  beast.  But  as  our  Spanish 
servant,  the  owner  and  myself,  had  only  his  horwi'n 
services  to  bear  us  along,  the  iiortion  to  each 
wai  f  tr  from  satisfying  to  our  exceeding  wcari. 


in  the  Rocky  Mounlains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  ^. 


sr 


MM.  Dlair  and  Wood  alm>,  Imd  liad  only  one 
hoMe  from  El  Pcubla.  Wo  were,  therefore  in  an 
ill  condition  to  endure  a  journey  of  7  days — over  a 
thirety  country,  under  a  burning  dim — and  with- 
out food. 

Gth.  18  milcB  to-day  over  the  barren  intervales 
of  the  river.  The  wild  wormwood  and  prickly 
pear  were  nlmont  the  only  evidences  of  veijetative 
iwwcrB  which  the  soil  presented.  A  rugged  deeo- 
latio*  of  loam  and  sand  blufl's,  barren  vales  of  red 
earth,  and  an  occasional  solitary  boulder  of  granite. 
No  mountains  even,  to  relieve  the  dreary  mo. 
notony  of  the  sickening  sight.  About  1'2  o'clock 
it  was  pleasant  to  sec  a  small  band  of  antelope 
pjiow  thcmBclves  on  the  brink  of  a  bluff.  \Vc 
halted,  and  attempted  to  approach  them  ;  but  they 
had  been  liujited  a  few  days  before  by  tlie  I'rcnch 
trappers  whom  we  had  met,  and  by  no  means 
relished  our  companionship.  Away  they  ran  like 
the  wind.  Our  liopes  of  finding  game  were  at  an 
end  ;  the  French  trajiperB  had  seen  on  all  their 
way  out,  no  other  game  than  tliis  band  of  antelope 
Our  faithful  grey  hound  could  Ix-  eaten  as  a  Inst 
recourse,  and  wc  traveled  on.  0\\r  excellent 
guide  insinfed  upon  walking  nearly  all  the  way 
that  I  miglit  ride.  Tliis  was  inestimably  kind  in 
him.  But  the  act  flowed  from  his  own  goodness. 
For,  during  our  long  jowmry  togethcr,lic  had  nc\er 
failed  to  take  every  opportunity  to  make  me  com- 
fortable.  We  arranged  our  camj)  to-niglit  with 
imuKual  care,  The  Siou.x  xvere  among  the  hills 
on  the  right,  and  every  preparation  was  therefore 
made  to  receive  an  attack  icom  them.  But  like 
many  otiicr  expectations  of  the  kind,  this  vanished 
as  the  beautiful  mountain  mom  dawned  upon  the 
silent  desert. 

7th.  To-day  wc  traveled  across  a  great  south- 
ward  l)end  in  the  river  ; — face  of  the  country  a 
desert — neither  tree  nor  shrub,  nor  grass,  nor  wa- 
tcr  in  sight.  During  the  afternoon  wc  fell  in 
with  an  old  grisly  bear  and  two  culw.  It  was  a 
dangerous  business,  but  starvation  knows  no  fear. 
Kelly  and  Smith,  havmg  horses  that  could  run, 
determined  to  give  chase  and  shoot  one  cub, 
while  the  grey  hound  should  have  the  lionor  of  a 
battle  with  the  other.  Under  this  arrangement 
tlie  chase  commenced.  The  old  bear,  unfaithful 
to  her  young,  ran  alieari  of  them  in  her  fright, 
and  showed  no  other  atToction  for  thcni  llian  to 
stop  occasionally,  raise  herself  on  her  hind  feet, 
and  utter  a  most  i)iteouH  screani.  Thi  horses  soon 
ran  down  one  cub,  and  the  grey  hound  the  other, 
so  that  in  half  an  hour  wc  were  oti  thn  route 
again  with  the  certaiji  prospect  of  a  supper  when 
wc  should  encamp.  Had  wc  foimd  water  and 
wood  where  wo  killed  our  meat  wc  should  have 
believed  it  impossible  to  have  proceeded  further 
without  food.  But  as  necessity  ncldoin  deals  in 
mercy,  she  compelled  us  in  this  case,  to  travel  till 
dark  before  wc  found  wood  enough  to  cook  our 
food,  and  water  enough  to  quench  our  parching 
thirst.  At  last  turning  from  our  track  and  fol- 
lowing down  a  de*p  ravine  that  ran  toward  the 
river,  wo  came  up<m  a  filthy,  oozing  sulphurous 
puddle  which  our  horses,  though  they  had  had  no 
water  the  entire  day.  refused  to  drink.  There  was 
no  alternative  however  between  drinking  tliis  and 
tliirsting  still,  and  wo  submitted  to  the  l>>8scr  of  two 
evils.  We  drank  it ;  and  tlio  aid  of  dry  worm- 
wood for  fuel,  boi.'..  i  our  meat  in  it-    These  cubs 


were  each  of  almut  12  pounds  weight.  The  liv- 
ers,  lieiU'tB,  heads,  and  the  fore  quarters  of  one  of 
them,  made  us  a  filthy  supper.  It  however  served 
the  purpose  of  better  food  as  it  prevented  starva. 
tion.     Wc  had  traveled  18  miles. 

8th.  The  morning  being  clear  and  excessively 
warm,  we  thought  it  pnidcnt  to  ne<'k  the  river 
again,  that  we  might  obtain  water  for  ourselves 
and  animals.  They  had  had  no  grass  for  the  last 
24  hours ;  and  the  prospect  of  finding  some  for 
the  poor  animals  upon  the  intervales,  w.ts  an  ad- 
ditional inducement  to  adopt  this  course.  We 
accordingly  wound  down  the  ravine  two  or  three 
miles,  struck  the  river  at  a  point  where  its 
banks  were  producti'i-e,  and  unpacked  to  feed 
them,  and  treat  ourselves  to  a  breakfast  of  cub 
meat.  Boiled  or  roasted,  it  was  miserable  food. 
To  eat  it  however,  or  not  to  cat  at  all,  wns  tlie  al. 
temative.  Furthermore,  in  a  region  wlierc  liz- 
ards grow  poor,  and  wolves  te4m  against  sand 
banks  to  howl,  cub  soup,  without  salt,  pepper,  iic, 
must  be  acknowleged  to  be  quite  in  stvle. 

Having  iM'Coine  somewhat  comfortable  by  feast- 
ing thus,  we  traveh'd  on  dowii  this  river  of  de. 
sertH  xJO  miles,  and  encamped  again  on  its  banks. 
At  this  encampment  we  ate  the  last  of  oiv  meat ; 
and  broke  the  Ixmcs  with  our  hatchet  for  the  oily 
marr'HV  in  them.  The  prospect  of  Kuft'ering  from 
hunger  before  wc  could  arrive  at  Brown's  Hole, 
iH'canie  every  hour  more  and  more  <-ertain.  The 
country  l)etween  us  and  lliat  point  was  known  to 
be  St)  sterile,  that  not  even  a  grisly  licar  was  to  be 
hopc'd  for  in  it.  It  was  a  (lesert  of  black  flint, 
sand  and  marl,  rendered  barren  by  perpetual 
drought. 

9th.  Traveled  23  miles  along  the  river — nothing 
to  cat,  not  even  a  thistle  stalk.  At  night  wc  tried 
to  take  some  f.:;li  :  the  stream  proved  as  ungener- 
ous as  the  soil  on  its  banks. 

10th.  .Made  15  miles  to-day  ;  country  covered 
with  wild  wormwood  ;  al  intervals  a  little  bimch 
grass — dry  and  dead ;  face  of  the  country  for- 
merly a  plain,  now  waslied  into  hills.  Our  dog 
was  frantic  with  Inmger ;  and  although  he  had 
treated  us  to  a  cub,  and  servid  us  with  all  the  fi- 
delity of  his  race,  wc  determined. in  full  council 
to-night,  if  our  hooks  took  no  fisli,  to  breakfast 
on  his  faithful  heart  in  tlic  morning.  A  horrid 
night  we  passed  ;  IS  hours  without  a  morsel  of 
f(X)d  !  Our  camp  was  8  niilef  alx)ve  the  jmiction 
of  Little  Bear  and  Little  Snake  Rivers. 

lltli.  This  morning  wc  tried  our  utmost  skill 
at  fishing.  Tatieiice  often  cried  '  hold,'  but  the 
npiH-arance  of  our  [joor  dog  would  admonish  us 
to  continue  our  etTorts  to  obtain  a  breakfast  from 
the  stream.  Thus  we  fished  and  fasted  till  eight 
o'clock.  A  small  fisli  or  two  were  caught — three 
or  four  ounces  of  food  for  7  starving  men  1  Our 
guide  <lrclared  the  noble  dog  must  die  !  He  was 
accordingly  shot,  his  hair  burnt  oft',  and  his  fore 
qua  ters  Ujiled  and  eaten  1 1  Some  of  the  men 
declared  that  dogs  made  excellent  mutton  ;  but 
im  tliis  |K)hit,  there  existed  among  us  what  politi- 
cians term  an  lionest  difference  of  opinion.  To 
me,  it  tasted  like  the  Jleah  of  a  dog,  a  sinffed 
tliig ;  and  ajjpetite  keen  though  it  was,  and  edged 
by  a  fast  of  filty  hours,  could  not  but  be  sensibly 
alive  to  the  fa  lat,  whether  cooked  or  barking, 
a  dog  is  still  a  do  i,  i  very  where.  Alter  our  repast 
was  finished,  w   saddled  up  and  rode  over  the 


58 


Travels  in  the  Cheat  Western  Prairies, 


pliiinn  in  a  northerly  direction  for  Brown's  Hole.  | 
Wc  had  been  trnvclin;;  tlie  hist  five  dajs,  in  ii  wen- 1 
trrly  coiirw. :  and  as  the  river  eontiniird  in  that  ■ 
direction,  we  h-tt  it  toseo  it  no  more,  I  would  liuin-  , 
biy  hiipe,  till  tln^  dews  of  Heaven  shall  cause  its  ; 
deserts  lo  blossom  and  ri|H>ii  into  something;  more  ■ 
nutritive  than  wild  wormwoixl  and  tfravel.  | 

Wo  crossi'd  Little  Snake  Uiver  about  I II  o'clock.  | 
This    stream  is  similar  in  size    to  that  we  had  ' 


considerable  distance  inn  westerly  course — tcrmi. 
nates  in  its  own  lake.  On  the  banks  of  this  river 
there  is  said  to  be  some  vejjetation,  as  ijrasses, 
trees  and  edible  roots.  Here  live  the  "  Piutes  " 
and  "  Land  I'itehes,"  the  most  degraded  nnd 
least  iiilellfctual  Indians  known  to  the  trappers. 
Thev  wear  no  elothinij;  of  any  description — build 
no  sliclters.  They  eat  roots,  lizards  and  snaUs. 
Their  (lersons  arc  morr  disjiusling  thiui  those  of 


just  left.  The  water  was  clear  and  warm,  the  i\  the  Hottentots.  Their  heads  are  white  with  tlm 
ehaiuiel  rocky  and  lM)rdered  by  barren  blutVs. —  1:  i;erms  of  cr.iwliug  fdth  I  They  provide  notliinjj 
No  trees  grew  upon  its  banks  where  wc  struck  it ; ';  lor  future  wants.  And  when  the  lizard  and  snail 
but  I  was  informed  that  higher  np,  it  was  skirted  |i  riiid  wild  roots  are  buried  in  the  snows  of  winter, 
with  pretty  groves  of  cotton  wood.  Hut  as  the  ,  they  are  said  to  retire  to  the  vicinity  of  timber, 
JSiou.x  war  party  which  had  attacked  the  I  dig  holes  in  the  form  of  ovens  in  the  steep  sides 
French  trappers  in  this  neighlxirhood,  were  proba.  i  of  the  sand  hills,  and,  having  heated  them  to  a 
biynotfar  from  our  trail,  perhaps  on  it,   and  near  '  certain  degree,  dcposite  themselves  in  them,  and 


us,  we  spent  little  time  in  examining  either  groves 
or  deserts.  For  we  were  vain  cuotigli  to  su|)pose 
that  the  mere  incident  of  being  scalped  here  would 
not  be  as  interesting,  to  ourselves  at  least,  as  would 
be  our  speedy  arrival  at  t'raig  and  Thomson's  post 
— where  wc  might  cat  christian  food  and  rest  from 
the  fatigues  of  our  journey.  For  these,  nnd  sever, 
al  other  palpable  reasons,  wc  drove  on  spccdilv  and 
silently,  with  every  eye  watchful,  every  gini  well 
primed,  every  animal  close  to  his  fellows,  till  ten 
o'clock  at  night.  We  then  halted  near  a  place 
where  wc  had  been  totd  by  the  French  trappers, 
we  could  find  a  spring  of  water.  The  day  harl 
been  excessively  wann,  and  oiir  thirst  was  well 
nigh  insuHernble.  Hence  the  long  search  for  the 
cooling  spring  to  slake  its  burnings.  It  was  in 
vain.  Near  midnight  therefore  it  was  abandoned 
by  all,  and  wc  wrap|ted  ourselves  in  onr  blankets, ; 
hungry,  thirsty,  and  wenry,  and  sunk  to  rest  u|M)n 
the  sand.  Another  dreadful  night !  Thirst,  bum- 
ing  thirst  1  The  glands  cease  to  moisten  the 
mouth,  the  throat  becomes  dry  and  feverish,  the 
lungs  cease  to  he  satisfied  with  the  air  they  inhale, 
the  heart  is  sick  and  faint ;  and  the  nerves  prcter- 
naturally  active,  do  violence  to  every  vital  organ. ' 
It  is  an  incipient  throe  of  death.  \ 

'Jlth.  We  arose  at  break  of  day,  nnd   pursued' 
our  journey  over  the  gray,  barren  wastes.     This ' 
legion  is  doomed  to  perjietual  sterility.     In  many 
portions  of  it  there  appears  to  bo  a  line  soil.     But 
the  trappers  say  that  very  little  rain  or  snow  falls 
upon  it ;  hence  its  unproductiveness.     And  thus 
it  is  said  to  lie  with  the  whole  eountrv  lying  to  the 
di.staiice  of  hundreds  of  miles  on  each  side  of  the 
whole  course  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West.     Vast 
plateaux   of  desolation,    yielding   only  llic   wild 
wormwood  and  prickly  pear.      .So  barren,  st)  hot, 
so  destitute  is  it   of  water,  that  can  be  obtained 
and  drunk,  that  the   niouutain   sheep   and   hare 
even,  animals  which  drink   less  than   any  others  i 
that  inhabit  these  regions,  do  not  venture  there. ' 
TraveU'rs  along  that  stream   are  said  to  be  com- 1 


sleep  and  fast  till  the  weather  permits  them  to  go 

abroad  again  for  food.     Persons  who  have  visited 

!  their  haunts  after  a  severe  winter,  have  found  the 

ground  around  these  family  ovens  strown  with 

the  uubiiried  Imdies  of  the  dead,  and  others  crawl- 

ing  among   them,  who  had    various  degrees   of 

strength,  from  a  bare  sufticieni'y  to  gasp  in  death, 

,  to  those  that  crawled  upon  their  hands  and  feet, 

:  eating  grass  like  cattle.     It  is  said  that  they  have 

no  we.i|)onBof  defence  except  the  club,  and  that  in 

the  use  of  that  they  are  very  unskilful.     These 

poor  creatures  are  hunted  in  the  spring  of  the 

year,  when  weak  and   helpless,  by  a  certain  class 

of  men,  and  when  taken,  are  fattened,  carried  to 

I  .Santa  Fe  and  sold  as  slaves  during  their  minority. 

"  A  likely  girl "  in  her  teens   brings  oftentimes 

■SSfH)  or  8  ion.     The  males  are  valued  less. 

At  alKiiit  II  o'clock,  we  came  lo  a  stream  of 
good  water  and  halted  to  slake  our  thirst,  and  cook 
the  remainder  of  our  <log  mutton.  Our  animals' 
sufl'crings  had  nearly  equalled  our  own.  And 
while  wc  ate  and  rested  under  the  shade  of  a  tree, 
,  it  added  much  to  our  eiijoyment  to  see  the  fain- 
'  islicd  beasts  regale  Ihcnisclves  njxm  n  plat  of  short 
wiry  grass  beside  the  stream.  Some  marks  of 
dragging  lodge  |)oliii  along  the  now  well  defined 
trail,  imhcatcd  to  us  that  a  (Kirtion  of  the  Sho- 
shoiiic  or  Snake  trils'  had  lately  left  Urown's 
Hole.  From  this  circumstance  wc  liegaii  to  fear 
what  afterwards  proved  true,  that  our  hopes  of 
finding  the  .Snakes  at  that  post  a;id  of  getting 
meat  from  them  would  prove  fallacious.  Our 
filthy  meal  being  finished,  we  gathered  up  our  lit- 
tle caravan  and  moved  forward  at  a  round  pace 
for  tlu-ee  hours,  when  tlii^  bliift's  o|)ened  before  us 
the  lieautiful  plain  of  Brown's  Hole.  As  wo  en- 
tered it  we  crossed  two  cool  streams  that  tumbled 
down  from  the  stratified  clill's  near  at  hand  on  the 
right ;  and  a  few  rods  beyond,  the  whole  area 
became  visible.  The  Fort,  as  it  is  called,  jicered 
up  in  the  centre,  upon  the  winding  bank  of  the 
Sheetskadee.     The  dark  inonntains  roso  around 


pellcd  to  carry  it  long  distances  upon  animals,  !  it  sublimely,  and  the  green  fields  swept  .away  into 
and  draw  it  where  it  is  jiossible  so  to  do,  with  a  ;  the  deep  precipitous  gorges  more  beautifully  than 
rope   and   skin   bucket   from  the   th;ism   of  the  ji  I  can  describe. 

stream.  And  yet  tli  animals  frequently  die  of  ]  How  glad  is  mnn  to  sec  hia  home  again  after  a 
thirst  and  hunger  ;  and  men  often  save  their  lives  P  weary  absence  !  F.vcry  ste]i  becomes  quicker  ua 
hy  eating  the  carcasses  of  the  dead,  and  by  il  he  approaches  its  sacred  [mrtals  ;  and  kind  smiles 
drinking  the  blood  which  thev  from  time  to  time  |l  greet  him;  and  leaping  hearts  beat  uiion  his,  and 
draw  from  the  veins  of  the  living.  Between  this  ||  warm  lips  press  his  own.  Tt  is  the  holy  sacrament 
river  and  the  (Jreat  Salt  Lake,  there  is  a  stream  ]!  of  friendship.  Yet  there  is  another  class  of  tlicst! 
called  Severe  River,  which  rises  in  the  high  iila-  il  emotions  that  appears  to  be  not  less  lioly.  They 
touiix  to  the  S.  E.  of  the  lake,  and  running  some  ||  arise  wlten,  after  liaving  been  long  cut  off  from 


in  Ihe  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  Sfc. 


59 


every  iiabit  and  synipalliy  of  civilized  life,  lone 
wiindcring  amoiij;  the  deep  and  silent  tiinplcB  of 
(he  r-tcrnal  mountains,  lonj^  undliom'ly  exposed  to 
llio  Bculping  liiiife  of  siivagis  and  the  ajfonies  of 
starvation,  one  beholds  llio  dwrllinj;  of  eivilized 
men — kindred  of  the  (dd  Patriot  Idood,  rearing 
their  hospitable  roofs  ainoiit;  tliose  hijfhts,  invitin;; 
the  houseless,  wayworn  wanderer  forest";  to  relax 
tlie  tension  of  his  enerfjies,  elose  his  long  watehini; 
eyes,  and  repose  the  heart  awhile  auionjj  (jeni'r. 
cms  spirits  of  liis  own  race.  Is  not  the  hand  that 
jirasps  your's  then,  an  honest  hand  ?  And  does  it 
not  distil  by  its  saered  warinlh  and  hearty  eni- 
hraee,  some  of  the  dearest  emotions  of  wliieh  tlio 
soul  is  capable  ;  friendship  unallo\  ed,  warm,  holy 
and  heavenly  ?  Tims  it  seemed  to  me,  at  all 
events,  as  w('  rode  into  the  hollow  scpiare  and  re- 
eeivcd  from  St.  Clair,  the  person  in  charjrc,  the 
hearty  welcome  of  an  old  hunter  to  "  Fort  David 
Crockett."  A  room  was  appropriated  innnedi- 
atcly  for  our  reception,  our  horses  were  piven  to 
the  care  of  his  hoise  jruard,  iuid  every  otl.er  ar- 
rangenirnt  within  his  means,  was  made,  to  make 
us  feel,  that  wiihin  that  little  nest  of  fertility, 
amid  the  barrenness  of  the  jjreat  .Stony  IJanjie; 
far  from  the  institutions  of  law  and  religion  ;  .ar 
from  the  sweet  ties  of  Ihe  family  relations,  and  all 
those  nameless  endearing  iiillueiiees  that  shed 
their  rich  fraijrance  over  human  nature  in  its  cul. 
tivated  abiding  places; — that  there  even  eould  he 
(fiven  us  the  fruits  of  the  sincercst  friendship. 
.Such  kindness,  can  be  appreciated  fully  by  those 
only,  who  have  enjoyed  it  in  such  places  ;  who 
have  seen  it  manifested  in  its  own  way;  by  those 
only,  who  have  starved  and  thirsted  in  these  de. 
Berts  and  been  welcomed,  and  made  thriee  wel- 
come, after  months  of  weary  wandering,  to  "  Fort 
Jlavid  Crockett." 

After  partaking  of  t'le  hospitality  of  ]\Ir.  .St. 
Clair,  I  strolled  out  to  cvamine  more  minutely  Ibis 
wonderful  little  valley.  It  is  situated  in  or  about 
latitude  M  degrees  north  ;  100  miles  wmtli  of  Wind 
Uiver  moimtaiiiH,  on  the  Sheelskadee  (Prairie 
Cock)  River.  lis  elevation  is  something  more 
than  8,001)  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  ap. 
peared  to  be  about  six  miles  in  diameter  ;  shut  in, 
in  all  directions,  by  dark  frowning  mountains, 
rising  1,.')00  feet  above  Ihe  jiliiin.  The  Slieetska- 
dee,  or  Cireen  Uiver  runs  tlirongli  it,  sweeping  in  a 
beautiful  curve  from  Ihe  north-west  to  the  soulli- 
wost  part  of  it,  where  it  breaks  its  way  through  the 
encircling  mouiilaiiis,  between  elift's  1 ,000  feet  in 
higlit,  broken  and  hanging  as  if  poised  on  Ihe  air. 
The  area  of  the  plain  is  thickly  set  with  Ihe  rich 
mountain  grasses,  and  dotted  willi  little  eopscs  of 
cotton  wood  and  willow  trees.  The  soil  is  allu- 
vial and  ea])al)le  of  producing  abmidantly  all  kinds 
of  small  grains,  vegetable.  &.e.  that  an'  raised  in 
the  northern  .States.  Its  eliinule  is  very  riinarka- 
ble.  Although  in  all  Ihe  country  within  100  miles 
of  it,  the  winter  nionlhs  bring  snows  and  the  .se- 
VI  re  cold  that  we  should  expect  in  such  alatiludo, 
and  at  such  an  elevation  above  the  level  of  the 
wa,  yet  hi  this  little  iifiok,  the  grass  grows  all  the 
winter.  .So  that,  wliili;  the  storm  rages  on  the 
mountains  in  siglit,  and  the  drilling  snows  mingle 
in  the  blasts  of  December,  Ihe  old  hunters  here, 
heed  it  not.  Their  horses  arc  cropping  the  green 
grass  on  the  banks  of  the  Sheelskadee,  while  they, 
tlicinsclves,  are  roasting  the  fat  loins  of  tlio  inouii- 


I'  tain  slieep,  and  laughing  at  the  merry  tale  and 

i  song. 

r      The  Fort   is  a  hollow  square  of  one  story  log 

1  cabins,  with  roofs  and  lloors  of  mud,  constructed 

'  in  Hie  same  manner  as  those  of  Fort  William. 

i  .Around  thest- W(^  found  the  conical  skin  lodges  of 

Ihe  S(pMWsof(he  while  trappers  who  were  away 

on  their  "  fall  bunt,"  and  also  the  lodges  of  a  few 

I  .'>in:ike  Indians,  who  had  preeceded  their  tribe  to 

this,  their  winter  haunt.   Here  also  were  the  lodges 

of  Mr.  Robinson,  a  trader,  who  usually  stations 

hiinsell  here  to  tratlie  with  Ihe  Indians  and  white 

trappers.     Mis  skin  lodge  was  his  warehouse  ;  and 

butliilo  robes  spread  U|W)n  the  ground,  his  counter, 

on  which  he  displayed  his  butcher  knives,  hatehelB, 

j  powder,  lead,  fish-hooks  and   whiskey.     In  ex- 

j  ehiinge  for  these  articles,  he  receives  beaver  skinii 

j  from  trappi'rs,  money  from  travelers,  and  horses 

I  from  Ihe  Indians.     Thus,  as  one  would  lielievc, 

il  y\r.  Robinson   drives  a  very  snug  little  business. 

j  .\nd  indeed  when  all  Ihe  "  iiideprndent  trappers" 

j  are  driven  by  aiiproaehing  winter  into  this  delight- 

'  111!  retreat;  ami  the   whole  Snake  village,  2  or 

3,000  strong,  impelled  by  the  same  necessity,  pitch 

I  tliiir  lodgef.  around  Ihe   Fort,  and  the  dances  and 

merry  makinirs  of  a  long  winter  are  thoroughly 

coiimienerd,  there  is  no  want  of  customers. 

Tliese  winters  in  Urown's  Hole  are  somewhat 

:  like  winters  among  the  mountains  of  New-Eiig- 

]  land,  in  the  efl'eets  they  produce  on  the  rise  and 

I  progress  of  the  art  of  all  arts — the  art  of  love. 

For  as  among  the  good  old  hills  of  my  native 

elinie,  (piiltings,  and  singiiig.schools,  and  iwening 

dunces,  when  the  stars  arc  shining  brightly  on  the 

snow  crust,  do  sollen  the  heart  of  the  mountain 

j  lad  and  lassie,   and  cau.se  Ihe  sigh  and  blush  to 

j  triumph  overall  the  counsels  of  maiden  aunts  and 

j.  fortune  tellers  ;  so  here  in  this  beautiful  valley  and 

I;  in  the  skin  lodge  villai;.   of  the  .Snakes,  there  arc 

\.  bright  evenings,  be.uniiig  stare  and  mellow  moons, 

and   social  circles  for  singing  the   wild  ditties  of 

'  their  tribe,  and  for  sewing  with  the  sinews  of  the 

deer,   their  leggins,  moccasins  and  butt'alo  robes, 

I  and  for  being  bewitched  with  the  tender  jiassion. 

i  The  dance,  too,  inlivens  the  village.     The  musi- 

eian  chants  the  wild  song  and  marks  the  lime  by 

regular  healings  with    a   stick  upon  a  sounding 

;  lK)ard.     And  light  heels,  and  sturdy  forms,  and 

bii.xom  forms  respond  to  his  call.     To  these  and 

!  oilier  gallierings,  the  young  go,  to  see  who  are  the 

;  fairest  and  best  and  most  loved  of  the  throng.  Our 

j  friend   Ci.pid  goes  there  too.     Yes,  Cu|)id  at  an 

j  Indiiin    dance  1    And  there  measuring  how  and 

i:  arrow  with  thee  who  invented  them,  he  often  lays 

at  his  fell,  I  am  told,  the  proudest  hawk's  feather 

thtit  adorns  thiMirow  of  Chief  or  Chiefess.     For, 

on  the  moniiug  after  the  dance  it  not  unircquently 

;  happens  that  he  of  the  Ixard  is  compelled  by  force 

I  of  certain  une;isy  sensations  about  the  heart,  to 

;  iip|)ly  to  some  beardless  one  for  the  balm  of  sweet 

j  smiles  for  his  relief.   He  does  not  wait  lor  the  calm 

hour  of  a  .Sunday  night.     Nor  docs  he  delay  put- 

;  ting  the  qui  stioii  by  |H)etleal  allusions  to  the  violet 

ii  and  lirmamenl.     No  !  calm  hours  and  the  [Mctry 

I'  of  nature   have  no  charms  tor  him.     He  wants 

j  none  of  these.    Our  fiiend  Cupid  has  east  an  arrow 

I;  into  his  heart,  bearded  with  the  stings  of  irrcsisti. 

bic  emotion;   and  he  seeks  that  mischievous  fair 

one,    her  alone,  who  selected  the  arrow  and  the 

victim  J  her  ulono  who  was  a  "  purticeps  criaiinis" 


60 


7\-avels  '.n  the  Oreal  Wettern  Prairitt, 


in  Ihn  loss  of  that  (jront  rrntrnl  orpnn  of  his  life 
c:\llcd  in  tlic  niiniilB  of  CliriHtian  rouMtrirB,  "  the 
hrnrt."  "  No  I  liis  I'ourw  i«  vanlly  inorr  pliilo. 
Kophical  nnd  Hinglo  minded  (I  nicnn  no  otrcncr  to 
my  coiintryinpn,  nonn  to  you,  yc  Dritons  over  tlic 
wntcm,)  tlmn  tlie  (jingrr.brcad  Huenr-onndy  court, 
ships  of  ('hriittinn  people,  lie  firHt  pnys  hin  nd. 
droswH  lo  Ilia  band  of  liorsoB ;  boIccIs  the  nioM 
kcautifid  and  vuluablt;  of  tliPiii  all,  and  (hen  i;orH 
with  liiH  rhoBcn  liorBc  to  the  lodge  of  liin  eliuHcii 
Kirl'u  father  or  niotlier,  or  if  Imth  tliene  be  dead, 
to  the  lodije  of  her  eldent  nister,  ties  the  animal  to 
the  tent  pole,  and  goes  away.  After  his  depitrl. 
urc  the  inniateH  of  the  lodge  isBiie  from  it,  and  in 
due  form  examine  the  hnrw  ;  and  if  it  niijiefirB  to 
be.  worth  as  nineh  ns  the  pirl  whom  the  owner 
weks,  an  interview  iB  had,  tlin  liorsi!  taken  by 
the  parents  or  Bister  as  the  ease  may  be,  and  the 
lover  takes  the  girl.  A  fair  businetis  transaetion, 
you  ])ereeive,  my  rendcra — "  u  (|uid  pro  quo" — a 
eompenflnlion  in  kind.  The  girl  reeeived  in  ex- 
change for  Ihe  horse  becomes  the  absolute  per- 
wmal  pro|)crty  of  the  <namored  jockey,  subject  lo 
be  resold  whenewr  Ihe  state  of  the  market  and 
liis  own  affection  will  allow.  But  if  those,  whose 
right  it  is  to  judge  in  the  matter,  arc  of  o|)inion 
that  the  girl  is  worth  more  than  the  horse,  another 
\»  brouglxt ;  and  if  these  are  not  enough,  lie  of 
the  heard  nniy  bring  another  or  get  Cupid  to  shoot 
liiB  heart  in  another  direction.  'I'here  are  many 
benefits  in  this  mode  ofobtaining  that  description  of 
legal  chatties  called  a  wife,  over  the  mode  usually 
adopted  iunnng  us.  Ab  for  example ;  Uy  lliis 
mode  tllere  is  a  price  given  for  a  valuable  article. 
Now  to  my  apprehension,  this  is  an  improvement 
uiK)n  our  plan.  For  it  removes  entirely  from  ccr- 
tain  old  daddies,  the  necessity  of  disiK)Bing  of  their 
daughters  by  gift,  to  certain  worthless,  portionless 
young  men,  who  are  merely  virtuous,  talented,  hon- 
est  and  indnstrioUB.  An  evil  of  no  sniiill  magin. 
tude,  as  may  \h'  learned  by  inquiry  in  the  jjrojier 
quarter.  Hut  the  Indian  system  of  matrimoMy 
extirpates  it.  Wealth  measures  oti" affection  and 
pro|>erty  by  the  peck,  yard  or  dollar's  worth,  as 
circumstances  require;  and  no  young  lady  of  real 
gcruiinc  property,  res|)ectal>ilily  and  standing,  and 
family,  will  think  of  jilacing  her  atli^clions  upon 
a  talented,  virtuous  and  industrious,  promlaing 
and  pros|)erous  coxcomb  of  fKiverty ;  nor,  vice 
versa,  will  a  young  man  of  these  vulgar  qualities. 
have  the  unfathomable  barefaccdncss  to  projiose 
himself  to  a  young  lady  of  real  genuine  properly 
rcBpcctf.bility,  projierty  form,  pro])crly  face,  pro. 
perty  virtue,  property  modesty,  and  property  in- 
telligence. No,  blees  the  day  !  such  impudence 
will  cease  to  interfere  with  the  legitimate  preten- 
tions of  those  who  are  able — while  they  declare 
their  passion  mighty,  unalterable  and  pur<', — to 
place  in  the  hands  from  which  tlicy  receive  the 
dear  object  of  their  property  love,  the  last  (|uoted 
prices  of  the  family  stock.  But  I  [)ass  to  the  con- 
Bideration  of  iinotlier  view  of  this  matter  that  I 
deem,  if  possible,  of  still  greater  imjmrtanee.  As, 
if  in  disposing  of  yomig  ladies  in  marriage,  a  valua- 
tion in  money  shoidd  he  made  of  their  pro])crtv 
beauty,  property  modesty,  property  intelligence, 
&.C.,  and  rcquirc;d  to  be  paid  before  marriage,,  the 
false  opinion  that  honesty,  probity,  intelligence, 
integrity,  virtue  and  respectability  can  exist  with- 
out  a  property  basis,  would  gradually  fade  '\yia.y 


before  the  influence  of  our  rich  daddies'  dnugh- 
ters,  Oh  the  age  that  would  then  bIcBS  our  earth '. 
The  piety  of  the  church  would  fan  itself  in  the 
property  Jtew.  The  forum  of  jurisprinlencc  woidd 
then  echo  to  the  lofty  straiim  of  property  eloquence. 
The  pravcB  of  Acndemus  would  brenthe  the  wis- 
dom of  property  philosophy.  The  easel  of  the 
artist  woidd  cast  \\\n\\  the  caiwnss  the  inspirntions 
of  pro|ierty  genius.  And  nuisic.  and  sculpture, 
and  poetry,  liorn  in  gam  ts,  would  give  place  to 
another  race  of  these  arts— a  prr)))erty  race,  that 
could  be  kept  in  oiU''s  apartments  without  compel- 
ling one  to  blush  for  their  origin.  We  should  llieii 
have  a  property  fitncsB  of  things,  that  would  place 
our  property  selves  in  .t  state  of  exalted  property 
beatitude.  It  is  hoped  that  the  I/Cgislators  of  the 
world  will  iK'Stow  u|«m  this  matter  their  most 
serious  attention,  and  from  lime  to  time  pass 
such  laws  as  will  aid  mankind  in  attaining  thin 
splendid  and  brilliant  exultation  of  our  nature, 
when  the  precious  metals  shall  be  n  univerflal  mea- 
sure of  value. 

This  is  diverging.  But  after  my  reader  is  in- 
formed that  the  only  distinct  aim  I  projKjsed  to 
myself  in  writing  my  journal,  was  to  keep  the  day 
of  the  month  correctly,  and  in  other  res|)ect» 
"  keep  a  blotter,"  the  transition  from  this  Blrain  of 
true  philos<iphy,  to  a  notice  of  the  white  men  and 
their  scpuiws,  will  be  thought  easy  and  natural. 

If  then  a  w  bite  man  is  disimsed  to  take  imlo 
himself  a  squaw  among  the  i^nakes,  he  nmsl  con. 
form  to  the  laws  and  customs  of  the  trilic,  that 
have  been  or<lained  and  established  for  the  regula- 
tion of  all  such  matlcrB.  .'Vnd,  whether  the  color 
in  any  individual  case  be  of  black  or  white,  doeit 
not  seem  to  be  a  (|ue«tion  ever  raisctl  to  take  it  out 
of  the  rules.  The  only  diflerence  is,  that  the  pro. 
perty,  beauty,  \c.  of  Ihe  whiles  frequently  gives 
(hem  the  preference  on  'change,  and  enables  them 
to  obtain  the  Ixst  squaws  of  the  nation.  These 
connections  lx(wccn the  white  trappers ^oid  sepiaws 
I  nin  told,  are  (he  cause  of  so  m;;:.,  of  tiic  former 
remaining  during  life  in  these  valleys  of  blood. — 
They  seem  to  love  (hem  as  ardendy  as  they  would 
females  of  (heir  own  color. 

A  trader  is  living  there  with  a  young  F.utaw 
squaw,  for  whose  charms  he  has  forsaken  friends, 
wealth  and  ease,  and  eivilizalion,  for  an  Indian 
lodge  among  all  (lie  dangers  and  wan(s  of  a  wilder- 
ness. This  gendcman  is  said  (o  have  a  standing 
offer  of  iJiTOd  for  his  dear  one,  whenever,  in  the 
course  of  a  limited  time,  he  will  sell  her  graces. 
But  it  is  believed  that  his  heart  has  so  much  to  do 
with  his  estimation  other  value,  that  no  eonsidera. 
tion  eoulil  induce  him  vohmtarily  to  deprive  liiiii. 
self  other  society. 

The  almvc  anecdotes,  iVc.  were  related  \r  me 
dm-ing  the  first  evening  I  •■■p'-it  at  Fori  JXuid 
CrockcK.  It  was  a  bright  ethcrial  iMglit.  The 
Fort  stood  in  (he  shade  of  (he  wild  and  dark  cliffs, 
while  the  light  of  the  moon  shone  on  the  wef'ern 
peaks,  and  east  a  dcipcr  <larknes8  into  tlu^  inacces. 
sible  gorges  on  the  face  of  the  mountains.  The 
Shcclskadee  flowed  silently  am' .ig  (he  alders — the 
fires  in  the  Indian  lodges  wpic  smoiddering  ;  sleep 
had  gathered  every  .miniate  thing  in  its  embrace. 
It  was  a  night  of  awful  solitude — the  grimdeur  of 
an  innnensity  of  silence  I  I  enjoyed  the  lovely 
scene  till  near  midnight  in  company  with  Mr.  8t. 
Clair ;  and  when  ut  last  its  exciteiucnts  and  tlie 


in  the  Roeky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Ttnitery,  i(e. 


61 


tlirilliii|r  plonBurc  of  boinff  rcliovcd  from  tlio  prod.  ] 
ppcl  ol'ildilh  Irnm  liiiii({<"r  ullowcd  me  to  Hlunilirr, 
lliiit  (jeiitlriimii  condurlrd  iiir  to  Iiin  own  rfM)m  iind 
bed,  und  IkkIc  mo  nccupy  Ik>|Ii  wlidi!  I  Hhuulit  r<'. 
iiiulii  with  liiiM.  lie  cxprtwfiod  rcirrrt  tliiit  lie  lind 
w)  liltio  proviHioiiH  in  llic  F(irt ; — ii  Kinnll  .jimnlity 
of  old  jerked  meal ;  ii  little  ten  iirid  tiii(;ur.  "Hut," 
N  lid  he,  "  Hhiiro  it  with  mc  as  lori^r  uh  it  IuhIh  ;  I 
'lave  huMt(!r«  nut ;  they  will  he  here  in  ten  or  twelve 
(layH  ;  yon  have  iK'eu  utarviiig  ;  eat  while  there  in 
any  Ihiiij;  lelt  -and  when  all  is  ),'one  we'll  have  a 
moiiiitaiii  nheep,  or  a  dot;  to  keep  olV  Htarvntion  till 
the  liiinlerH  eome  in."  .My  eoiiipanionH  and  (juide 
Were  Ichh  lortunate.  We  purchaRed  all  tlie  meat 
that  either  money  or  (joodHeoiild  iiuhiee  the  Indinns 
to  sell.  It  nmoiintod  to  one  day'n  Hiipgdy  for  the 
eompany.  And  »r  there  was  Kiip]H)sed  to  he  no 
l^aine  within  a.  eirenit  of  UK)  miles,  it  heeanio 
matter  of  serioiw  ie.ipnry  whether  we  nhoidd  seek 
il  in  the  direetion  of  I'ort  llall,  or  on  the  head  w». 
ters  of  Liltif  Snake  Kiver,  100  miles  otl'  our  pro- 
])ir  naite  toOreijon.  In  the  latter  place  there  were 
plenty  of  llni',  lat  hutl'alo  ;  hut  on  the  way  to 
till!  other  |Mjint  llieri'  was  nothinj;  but  antelope, 
dillieult  to  kill,  and  |V)or.  A  collateral  eircmn- 
Ftanee  turned  the  scale  of  our  delilHratioiifl.  'I'hat 
eireuuiRlance  was  dog  meal.  We  could  get  a 
supply  of  lhe«!  delectable  animalH  from  the  Indians; 
they  would  k<'ep  life  in  ni  till  we  could  reach  Tort 
llall;  and  by  aid  thereof  we  could  immediately 
proceed  on  our  journey,  cross  the  IJlue  Mountains 
before  the  snow  Bhonid  render  thcni  impassable, 
and  reach  Vancouver  on  tlu;  lower  Columbia  dur. 
in({  the  autumn.  On  the  contrary,  if  we  soujrht 
meat  on  the  waters  of  Little  ^Snake  Kiver,  it  would 
be  BO  late  before  wc  should  be  prepared  to  rcBumc 
our  journey,  that  we  could  not  pass  those  inoun- 
lains  until  May  or  June  of  the  following  spring. — 
The  (k)gB,  therefore,  were  purchased  ;  and  pre. 
paratioiiB  were  made;  for  our  departure  to  I'ort 
JIall,  as  W)on  as  ourselves  and  imr  animals  were 
Burtieiently  recruited  for  the  undertakuig.  Mean- 
wliile  my  companions  ate  upon  our  stock  of  bark, 
ing  mutton.  And  thus  we  spent  7  days — dehght- 
ful  days.  l'"or  nllhough  our  fan;  was  humble  and 
Bcant}-,  yet  the  tlesh  began  to  creep  upon  our 
skeletons,  our  minds  to  resume  their  usual  vivacity, 
and  our  hearts  to  v.'arm  again  with  the  ordinary 
emotions  of  human  existence. 

'I'he  trials  of  a  journey  in  the  Wffltem  wilder, 
neus  can  never  be  detailed  in  words.  To  be  un- 
derstood,  they  nmst  Iw  endured.  Their  etrcels 
nimn  the  physicil  and  mental  system  are  erpially 
prostrating.  The  desolation  of  one  kind  und 
another  which  meets  the  eye  every  wliere  ;  the 
sense  of  vaslness  associated  with  dearth  and  bar. 
renness,  and  of  sublimity  connected  with  ■..■tcrnal, 
killing  frosts ;  and  of  lonclincBS  coupled  with  a 
thousand  natural  causes  of  one's  destruction  ; 
perpetual  journeyings  over  endless  declivities — 
among  tempests — throtigh  freezing  torrents ;  one 
half  the  time  on  foot,  with  nothing  but  mocca. 
sins  to  protect  the  feet  from  the  (linty  gravel  and 
the  thorns  of  the  prickly  pear  along  the  unl)caten 
way ;  and  the  starvings  und  thirstings  wilt  the 
muscles,  send  preternatural  activity  into  the 
nervous  system,  and  through  the  whole  animal 
and  mental  economy  a  feebleness  and  irritability 
altogether  indescribable.  But  at  Fort  David 
Crockett  tlicrc  wero  rest,  and  food,  and  safety ; 


and  old  Fatlior  Time,  an  li«  mowed  away  the 
passing  moments  and  gathered  them  into  the 
great  garner  of  the  Past,  cast  up<m  the  Futun-  a 
fc  w  blosBoms  of  hojK',  and  sweetened  the  hours 
now  and  then  willi  a  bit  of  information  alioul 
this  (Mirtion  of  his  ancient  dnininion,  I  heard 
from  various  persons,  more  or  less  acipiaintcd 
with  the  Cokirado  of  the  West,  a  confirmalion  of 
the  account  of  that  river  given  in  the  jounials  of 
previous  days  ;  und  also  that  there  resides  at  the 
lower  end  ol  its  grcut  kenyon  a  band  of  the  Club 
Indians — very  many  of  whom  are  seven  feet  in 
bight,  and  well  pro|K)rtioned  ;  that  these  Indians 
raise  large  quantities  of  bln<'k  beans  U|M)n  the 
sandy  intervals  on  the  stream  ;  that  the  oval-leaf 
prickly. pear  grows  there  from  filteen  to  twenty 
feet  in  bight;  that  these  Indians  make  molasses 
from  its  fruit ;  that  their  principal  wea|Kin  of  war- 
fare is  th(;  club,  which  they  wield  with  ama/.ing 
dexterity  and  lorci> ;  that  they  inhabit  a  wide  ex- 
tent of  country  north-west  and  south-east  of  the 
lower  part  of  this  river  ;  that  they  have  never 
lx.cn  subdued  by  the  Spiuiinrds,  and  are  inimieil 
to  all  while  people.  Subseipient  inquiry  in  Cali- 
fornia satisfied  me  that  this  river  is  navigable  only 
'M\  or  10  miles  from  its  mouth,  und  that  ine  In- 
dians who  live  iiiHjn  its  barren  banks  near  thu 
(iulf  are  such  as  1  have  described. 

'I'he  Snakes,  or  Shoshonies,  arc  a  wandering 
tribe  of  Indians  who  inhabit  that  part  of  the 
Hocky  Mountains  which  lies  on  the  Grand  and 
<.;reeii  River  branches  of  the  Colorado  of  tiie 
West,  the  valley  of  tJrcat  Hear  Uiver,  the  habit- 
able shores  of  the  Great  Salt  Luke,  a  considerable 
portion  of  I'ounlry  on  Snake  River  almve  and  be. 
low  Fort  llall,  and  ii  tract  extending  two  or  three 
hundred  miles  to  the  west  of  that  post.  Those 
who  reside  in'the  place  last  named,  are  said  tc 
subsist  principally  on  roots  ;  they  howev;'r  kill  a 
few  deer,  and  clothe  themselves  with  their  skins. 
The  band  living  on  Snake  River  subBist  on  the 
fish  ol  the  stream,  buffalo,  deer  and  other  game. 
Those  residing  on  the  branches  of  the  Colorado 
live  on  roots,  buffalo,  elk,  deci,  the  mountain- 
sheep,  und  antelope.  The  Snakes  own  many 
horses.  These,  with  their  thousands  of  dogg, 
constitute  all  the  domestic  animals  among  them. 
They  have  conical  skin-lodges,  a  few  caiiip- 
kettles,  butcher-knives  und  gmis.  Many  of 
them,  however,  still  use  the  lx)w  and  arrow.  In 
dress,  they  follow  the  universal  Indiaii  costume — 
moccasins,  leggingH,  und  the  hunting.shirt. 
Nothing  but  the  hair  elvers  the  head  ;  and  this, 
indeed,  would  seem  ButFicient,  if  certain  state, 
ments  made  in  rel.ition  to  it  be  true  ;  as  '.hat  it 
frequently  grows  four  and  five  feet  in  lengtli,  and 
in  on(!  case  eleven  feet.  In  these  instiuices,  it  ia 
braided  and  wound  aroimd  the  head  in  the  form 
of  a  Turkish  turban.  If  only  two  or  three  feet  in 
length,  it  is  braided  on  the  female  head  in  two 
queues,  which  hang  down  the  back :  on  the 
male  it  is  only  combed  behind  the  cars,  und  lays 
disheveled  around  the  shoulders.  The  female 
dress  lUffers  from  that  of  the  male  in  no  other  re- 
spect than  this :  the  shirt  or  chemise  of  tho  former 
extends  down  to  the  feet.  Beaver,  otter,  bear  and 
buffulo  skins,  and  horses  are  exchanged  by  them 
with  the  ArrapuhocB,  and  the  American  and  Brit. 
ish  traders,  for  some  few  articles  of  wearing  ap- 
parel ;  Bticli  as  woolen  blankets  and  hats.    But  as 


69 


Travtlt  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


thrir  iitock  of  dkinH  in  nlwnvR  vory  I  niitnl,  tliry 
fiiul  il  nr('(8K;iry  I"  1iiih1i;iii(1  it  wilh  ii  ili'li  care  to 
ohiuiii  Ihrrrwilli  ii  (iiipply  (if  tobacco,  uniiH  ami 
iiMiiiiiiniliiiii. 

I'niiii  llir  llrKt  nrf|iiaiiiliin(.'0  of  llir  wIiiIcb  wil'i 
tlii'Mi,  IIhw  pcoiilo  liiivc  liciii  rrmailcililr  liii  ilirir 

UVd'Hioll   to  Wlir,   liiwl    lllOHC    <-lll('llil'H    Rl    C''"''"'' V 

pr'iiclircd  liy  llicir  riicf.  tf  |i('iiiiill((l  to  live  In 
jicai't'  aiiiori|r  their  iiioiiiitMiiiN.  and  allowid  to  limit 
llir  Imllalo — tliat  wamliriii^j  patrimony  of  all  (lie 
IriliOH — will  ir  luTcKHily  r('(|iiirtH,  tlicy  inaUi'  war 
n|Hin  noiii',  ami  Inni  none  limi^rrv  away  from  tlirir 
limiililc  alioilrH.  lint  IIkkc  pcarcalili'  dis|H>silioii!< 
in  the  wildiriHsH,  wlirrc  m<  n  arc  li  It  to  the  pro. 
tcction  ol  tlicir  impiilHcs  ami  |ilivNical  ciicriricf. 
have  yicl<lcd  tin  ni  litllc  proliclion.  Tlic  Hlaclt. 
feci,  Crows,  Sion.v  and  laitaws  have  allciiialcly 
I'oiillht  thini  for  the  hettir  riLdit  to  the  (Mil  Park, 
and  |Mirlioiis  ol  their  Tcrrilory,  wilh  varied  sue. 
CCKH  ;  ami,  at  the  prewnt  lime,  do  those  Irihcs 
yearly  hi  iid  predatory  parliet-  iiilo  their  horderH  to 
rob  them  of  their  liorNS.  I ti it  as  the  passi  sllironi;h 
which  they  (liter  the  Snake  eoimtrv  are  liceomiiii; 
more  and  more  dcHlilnte  of  eiinie  on  which  to  mih. 
hIbI,  their  visilH  arc  Icch  freipieni,  and  their  mmiher 
IcHH  formidahle.  !^o  thai,  for  Kcveral  years,  they 
liavc  hecn  ill  a  Kreal  miasnrc  reli(  ved  In  mi  tin  He 
aniioyaniM  H. 

From  the  time  tlicy  met  r.ewis  ami  Clark  on  the 
head. waters  of  the  .Missouri  to  the  present  day,  the 
Snakes  linvc  opened  their  lodjres  to  whites,' with 
the  most  friendly  h  elintrs.  And  many  are  the 
citizens  of  the  States,  and  the  siihjcels  df  Hritain, 
who  li.ive  soii(.'ht  their  villairi  s.  and  hy  their  lios- 
pitalily  hcen  saved  from  death  anion;.' those  awful 
solitudes.     \  truest  anioii!,'  lliem   is  a  sacred   de- 


I  the  lipBof  n  navaijp — (<rii(lB  to  our  rarB  tlio  start. 

[  linu  rchiike — '■  .Make  not,  vend  not,  jjivi^  not  to 

I  lis  the  nlriiiiu'  )riilrr.     Il  prostrates  your  superior 

i  knowlciliic — your  eiilari;eil   capacities  for  liappi. 

'  iiesH — your  eiillivatcd  iindcrstandin(,'H.  It  breaks 
\iMir  strong'  laws;  il  rols  down  your  stroiuj 
houses  ;    il  bnrii  s  yon  in  the  tilthicst  ditch  of  Hin. 

;  »Jend  it  not  to  IIS  ;    we  would  rather  die  by  the 

:  arrows  of  the  lllaekfcel." 

I  'i'he  ( 'rows  are  a  wandering'  tribe  that  is  usual- 
ly loiind  in  the  upper  plains  around  llie  head-wa- 
tcTB  of  the  north  fork  of  (Jrcat  I'lallc,  .Snake,  and 
^'ellowatoiic  rivers.  'I'lii  ir  nunibcr  is  estimated  to 
be  about  .'),lllll).  '''hey  are  represented  as  the  most 
arrant  rascals  aim.  i  '  ilie  mountains.  The  traders 
Hay  of  tlieiii  that  "  tlicy  have  never  been  known  In 
keep  a  promise  or  do  an  honorable  act."     iNo  while 

manor  Indian  trusts  them.  .Murdenind  robbeiy 
are  their  principal  employniciils.  .Much  of  their 
comilry  is  well  watered,  timbered,  and  capable  of 
yieldinir  an  abundant  reward  to  llii'  huKbandniaii. 
The  Hlack:eet  Indians  reside  on  the  Marias  ami 
other  braliehes  of  the  .Missouri  above  the  (ireat 
l''allH.  In  1>JH  they  u'l  nbercd  about  •J..'il)l)  lod^'es 
or  familes.  Diirini;  that  year,  llicy  stole  a  blaii 
ke'.  iron'  the  American  h'lir  Company's  steamboat 
on  the  \'ellowsmiie,  which  had  belonircd  Ion  man 
who  hail  did  ol  Hi  sniall.po.\  on  tlii^  passage 
lip  Ihe  .Mis.toiiri.  The  iiifecteil  article  beinK  car- 
ried to  their  encai.ijrii  n  upon  the  "hit  hand  liak 
of  the  .Missouri.''  sjircad  the  dreadliil  infection 
anionj,'  the  whole  tribe.  They  were  am.i/.ed  at 
the  appearance  of  the  disease.  The  red  bloleli, 
the  bile,  cont'cslion  of  the  lnni,'H,  liver,  and  brain, 
were  all  new  to  lliiir  mcdiein.mcn  ;  and  the  rot- 
ten corpse   fallim;  in  pieces  while   they    buried  it. 


|>OBil('  of  the  (Ileal  .Spirit.  His  |nnperty,  when!  struck  horror  inlii  every  heart.  In  their  phicnzy 
once  arrived  within  their  Ciunp,  is  iimler  the  pro.  i'  and  ignorance,  Ihey  increased  the  number  »(  llieir 
lection  ol'  tin  ir  honor  and  religions  principle,  sweat  ovens  upon  the  banks  of  the  strea:o,  and 
And  should  want,  cupidity,  or  any  other  motive, !  whether  the  burning  lever  or  the  want  ol  nervous 
t(;mpt  any  individual  to  disrc.'anf  Ihesi 


laws  ol 
llORpitalily,  the  property  wliii  h  may  have  In  in 
stolen,  or  its  e(pnvaleiil.  is  returned,  and  llie 
ofTendcr  punished.  The  Snakes  are  a  very  iiilel- 
li(;cnt  race.  This  appears  in  the  eomrorts  of  their 
homes,  their  well-conslnicled  lodjres,  Ihe  elcn^anee 
and  useful  form  of  their  wardrobe,  their  horse. 
gear.  iJtc.  lint  more  especially  do(S  il  exhibit 
itself  in  their  views  of  Sdisual  excesses  and  other 
inimoralilies.  These  are  inhibited  by  immemo. 
rial  usages  of  the  tribe.  j\or  (lo(s  their  code  ol 
customs  ojieratc  upon  those  wroiit^  doincB  only 
whic  11  originate  amoiiu'  a  savajre  people.  A\'liat- 
evrr  indecency  is  otl'cred  llieni  by  their  intereourse 
with  the  whites,  they  avoid.  Civilized  vice  is  quite 
as  ofl'eiisivc  as  that  which  (rrows  up  in  their  owr 
untrained  natures.  The  noii.usc  ol  inlo.xieating 
li(|lior  is  an  example  of  this  kind.  They  abjured 
it  from  the  commence  inint  of  its  inlroduclion 
among  them.  And  they  fx'wc  llic  best  of  reasons 
for  this  custom  : — "  It  unmans  us  for  the  hunt, 
and  for  dcfcndinjr  omsclyes  against  our  enemies  : 
it  causes  umi.ilural  dissensions  among  ourselves  : 
it  makes  the  Ciiicf  less  than  his  Indian  ;  and  by 
its  use,  imbecility  and  ruin  would  conic  upon  the 
Slioshonie  tribe."  Whatever  ditlerence  of  opinion 
may  exist  ,iinong  civilized  men  on  this  matter, 
these  Indians  certainly  reason  well  lor  tlieni- 
selveB,  and,  I  am  inclined  to  think,  for  all  others. 
A  voice  from  llie  depths  of  the  mounlains~-from 


aclion  prevailed  ;  whrlher  frantic  with  pain,  or 
loltcriii!^  in  death,  they  were  placed  In  them, 
sweated  profusely  and  plunged  into  the  snowy  wa- 
ters of  the  river.  The  mortality  wliii  li  followed 
this  treatment  w.is  a  paralh  I  of  the  plague  in  Lon- 
don. They  endeavored  lor  a  time  lo  bury  the 
dead,  but  these  were  soon  more  mimerons  than 
the  living.  The  evil. minded  niediciii-men  of  all 
aues  had  eoine  in  a  Isxly  from  the  world  of  splr. 
Its,  li.id  entered  into  them,  and  were  working  the 
annihilation  of  the  Dlaekioot  race.  The  tireat 
.•Spirit  also  had  placed  the  Hoods  of  his  displeasure 
bcUvccn  liimscll  and  llieiii  ;  He  had  cast  a  mist 
over  the  eyes  of  their  conjiirors,  that  they  might 
not  know  the  remedial  incautalion.  Tin  ir  hunts 
vvcre  ended  ;  their  bows  were  broken;  the  lire  in 
the  Great  Pipe  was  extinguished  lorcver  ;  their 
graves  called  for  them  ;  and  the  call  was  now 
answered  by  a  thousand  dyinL'  groans.  Mad  with 
superstition  and  fear,  brother  for.sook  sister  ;  father 
his  son  ;  and  mother  her  sucking  child  ;  and  Hcd 
lo  the  elevated  vales  among  the  western  liights, 
where  the  iiil!uciiees  of  the  climate,  operating 
upon  the  already  wcll.spcut  energies  of  the  dis. 
I  ease,  restored  the  remainder  of  the  tribe  again  to 
I  health.  Of  the  2,M\)  families  existing  at  the  tlnio 
j  the  pestilence  coinnienced,  one  or  more  members 
[  of  bOO  only  survived  its  ravages.  And  even  to 
I  tliis  hour  do  the  Ijoncs  of  7,000  or  8,000  Black- 
I  feci,  lie,  unburied  among  tlie  decaying  lodges  of 


j'«  llic  liorky  Mounlaini,  the  Oregon  Territory,  i\c. 


(Jn 


tlicir  diiiMrtcd  villu(j(',  on  tliclmtikHof  llin  Yellow, 
ntori)'.  Hut  IIiIh  iiijllctidii  liaK  in  no  wlur  liiiinnn- 
izrd  their  IiIihkI  thirdly  n.iliirc.  Ah  rvrr  before, 
they  w«i{e  exleriiiiimliii;{  war  uimim  the  truderN 
iiiKl  trupper  1,  iiiil  the  Oregon  liichiinH. 

The  Arriii)ahr)e«  riHidc  Hoiilli  oT  the  Sn:ikc». — 
They  wander  In  the  winter  waKon  over  the  eoun- 
try  aUiiit  th<  head  ol'  tht  (ireat  Kenyon  of  the 
Colorado  of  the  Wist,  and  to  a  eoiiHiderahle  diH- 
tance  down  that  river  ;  and  in  sunnner  hnnt  the 
hnfl'alo  ni  the  New  Park,  or  "  Itnll  Pen,"  in  the 
"  (  Hd  I'ark"  on  (Jraixl  Uiver,  and  in  "  Itayoii  Sa- 
lade,"  on  the  Hontli  fork  of  tin;  I'latte.  'I'heir 
nnniher  ix  not  well  aNci  rtained.  Some  extiniate 
it  lit  3,00(1,  otIierH  more,  and  others  Htill  lewi. — 
They  are  Haid  to  he  a  hiave — learleBH,  thrifty, 
iligenioiiH,  and  |ioK|>it;diie  |ii(i|>le.  They  owiihir(;e 
pnMiherH  of  liorHeH,  nnilcs,  iIol'S,  anil  hIii'|'|i.  Tlie 
do(;s  they  fatten  undent,  lliiiie  the  name  Ar. 
rapahiKt) — dojr  ral(.r».  They  Miainifaeture  the 
wof)l  of  their  Hheep  into  hianki  Ih  of  a  very  Buperi- 
or  ipiulity.  I  Huw  many  ol  till  in  ;  |hikni  hhciI  one  ; 
nnd  believe  Ihrni  to  In  made  with  winietliiii);  in 
the  form  of  a  darniin;. needle.  They  appeared  to 
he  wroiip;hl,  in  the  hrst  plaee,  like  a  tisliinfj-nel  ; 
nnd  on  this,  aR  a  loimdalion,  ilarni  d  so  denHcly 
that  the  rain  will  not  pinetratr  them.  They  are 
imnally  Ktiipi  d  or  eheeked   with  yellow  and  red. 

Tliere  is  in  lliih  tribe  a  very  eurioiis  law  of  nal. 
uralizution  ;  it  is  based  upon  pro|)erly.  .\ny  one, 
whether  red  or  while,  may  avail  liimsi  If  of  it. 
One  horde,  wliieh  ean  run  ■  ■'  .  t'lllieii  iit  sjiced  tu 
overtake  a  bnllalo  eow,  and  another  horse  or  mule, 
eapable  of  hearing;  a  paik  of  ^dU  pounds,  must 
be  |)osK<ssed  by   the  appliealit. 

'I'liew  beiny  delivered  to  the  pi-iiiei|)al  clilif  of 
the  tribe,  and  bis  intentions  bi  in}r  iiiaili'  known, 
I  e  is  driland  ii  eiliz.en  of  the  Arrapaboe  tribe, 
and  entitled  to  a  wife  and  other  bi^jb  jirivileges 
thereunto  uppertaininjr.  Thus  reeojriiiy.ed,  he  en- 
ters Ujion  a  lib:  ol  savajre  indepelidiiiee.  His 
wife  takes  eare  of  his  horses,  niaiiiifaetnreH  his 
saddles  and  bridles,  and  leash  ro|MK  and  whips, 
his  moeeasins,  lejf)riiij;s,  and  lmntin(,'-sliirts,  from 
leather  and  olhir  materials  prijiared  by  her  own 
hands  ;  beats  with  a  woodi  n  adz  ebisbutlalorolK'H, 
till  they  are  W)lt  and  pleasant  for  bin  couch  ;  tans 
jiides  lor  bis  tent  eovi  linjf,  and  drajjs  from  the  dis- 
tant hills  the  clean  white.pine  poliH  to  support  it; 
cooks  his  daily  food  and  places  it  be!ore  him. — 
And  shoul..  sickness  overtake  him,  and  death  rap 
at  the  door  of  his  lodi;e,  his  sipiaw  walebes  kind- 
ly the  lust  yearniiiffsot  the  ill  partini;  spirit.  His 
sole  duty,  as  her  lord  in  lili  ,  and  as  a  citizen  of 
the  .\rrapahiie  tribe,  is  to  ride  the  horse  which 
she.  saddles  and  brinfrs  to  Ins  lent,  kill  the  game 
which  she  dresses  and  cures  ;  sit  and  slumber  on 
the  couch  which  she  spreads  ;  and  light  the  ene. 
mics  of  the  tribe.  Their  languajre  is  said  to  be 
esKentially  the  same  as  that  spoken  by  the  .'^nakes 
und  Cumaneh(R. 

'I'his,  and  other  t.ihcB  in  die  mountains,  and  in 
tlie  upper  plains,  have  a  custom,  the  same  in  its 
objects  as  was  the  ceremony  of  the  "toga  virdis" 
among  the  Koinans.  AVben  ripened  into  nuin- 
hood,  every  young  man  of  the  tribes  is  expected 
to  do  some  act  of  bravery  that  will  give  promise 
of  his  disposition  and  ability  to  defend  the  rights 
of  lus  tribe  and  lainiiy.  Nor  can  this  expectation 
bo  disregarded.  So,  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  those 


of  the  age  alluded  to,  iiMoriatc  thcmitelveK  tO  or 

W  in  n  band,  and  devote  IbemselviH  to  Ibe  ilulieH 
of  man's  estate  in  (he  following  manm  r  :  They 
take  leave  of  their  friends,  and  depart  to  some  se. 
eret  plaei' near  the  woodlanilH  ;  collect  jhiIcs '.ill  or 
.311  feet  in  length,  and  raise  ihcni  in  the  form  of  a 
cone;  and  cover  the  structure  so  thickly  with 
leaves  and  Isnigbs  as  to  secure  the  inli  rior  from 
the  gaze  of  peisiinH  outside.  They  tin  ii  hang  a 
fresh  Imllido  head  inside, — near  the  top  of  the 
lodge  where  the  poles  meet ;  and  In  low  this, 
around  the  sides,  sinpi ml  eamp-kettlcs,  scalps, 
and  blanki'ls,  and  the  skin  of  a  white  biiir.do,  as 
od'erings  to  the  (Jreat  Spirit.  Alter  the  lodge  is 
thus  arranged,  they  enter  it  withinuch  solemnity, 
nnd  commence  the  ceremonies  which  are  to  con- 
secrate themselves  to  war,  and  the  destruction  of 
their  own  enemies,  and  those  of  Ihetribe.  Tim 
first  act,  is  to  seal  tbcmKclvi  s  in  a  circle  around  a 
fire  built  in  the  centre  of  the  lodge,  and  ''make 
medicin ;"  that  is, — invoke  thi  presence  and 
aid  of  protecting  syirils,  by  smoking  the  (ireat 
Mystic  I'i|)e.  One  of  the/r  nnmlier  tills  it  with 
tobacco  and  herbs,  places  upon  Ibe  Isnvl  a  bright 
coal  from  the  lire  within  the  lodge,  dra«s  the 
smoke  into  bis  lungs,  and  blows  it  hence  through 
his  nostrils,  He  then  si  izis  the  stem  with  bulb 
hands,  and  leaning  forward,  touches  the  ground 
Ix'tween  his  feet  with  the  lower  |)art  of  the  bowl, 
and  smokes  again  as  before.  The  feel,  und  arms, 
and  breast,  are  successively  touched  in  ;i  similar 
way  ;  and  alter  each  touching,  the  sacred  smoke 
is  inhaled  as  before.  'I'be  pipe  is  then  passed  to 
the  one  on  his  right,  who  sniokmushis  fellow  had 
done.  And  thus  the  (ireat  Pipe  goes  round,  and 
the  smoke  rises  and  mingles  with  Ibe  voliycotler. 
ings  to  the  (ireat  .Spirit  that  air  suspended  i'bove 
their  heads.  Immediately  alter  this  smoking,  is 
believed  to  be  a  favored  ume  forolTi  ring  jiriiyir  to 
the  (ireat  Spirit.  They  jiray  for  courage,  miiiI 
victory  over  their  foes  in  the  camjiaign  they  are 
aU)Ul  to  undertake  ;  and  that  tliev  may  In  pro. 
teeteil  I'loni  the  spirits  of  evil.miniled  medicin 
men.  They  then  make  a  sok  nin  and  irrevocable 
vow,  that  if  these  medicin  men  do  not  make  tin  in 
sick- — do  not  enter  into  tlieii  bosoms  and  ilislroy 
their  strength  and  courage,  they  will  never  again 
see  their  relatives  and  Inbe,  unless  Ihcy  do  so  in 
garments  stained  with  the  blood  of  their  eiiemifs. 
Having  paRsed  through  lliesc  eeiemonies,  they 
ris<:  and  dance  to  the  music  of  war  cbanis,  till 
they  are  exhausted  and  swoon.  In  this  stale  of 
insi  nsibility,  they  imagine  that  Ibe  spirits  of  the 
brave  dead  visit  them  and  teach  tb<  m  their  duly, 
and  inform  them  of  the  events'  that  will  trans|iiir 
during  the  campaign.  Thrie  days  and  nights 
are  passed  in  performing  these  eeiemonies ;  dur- 
ing which  time,  they  neither  eat  nor  drink,  nor 
leave  the  lodge.  .Vt  early  dawn  of  the  fourth  day 
they  select  u  leader  from  their  number,  appoint  n 
distant  plaee  of  meeting  ;  and  emerging  lioiii  the 
lodge,  each  walks  away  from  it  alinc  to  tbejilacc 
of  rendezvous.  Having  arrived  ti.cre,  they  de. 
terinine  whose  horses  are  to  he  stolen,  whose  scalps 
taken  ;  and  commence  their  march.  They  al- 
ways go  out  on  fool,  wholly  dejicndent  upon  their 
own  energirs  for  food  and  every  other  necessary. 
Among  other  things,  it  is  considered  a  great  dis. 
grace  to  be  long  without  Jiiiut  and  the  mcunii  of 
riding. 


<■ 


64 


Travels  in  Oie  Great  Western  Prairiet, 


It  somctiiMes  liapjjPnB  that  tlii-sc  parties  are  un- 
able to  satisfy  tho  conditions  of  their  consecra- 
tion durinfr  th-;  first  season  ;  and  therefore  are 
coni|)clled  to  resort  to  some  infjenioiis  aiid  satis- 
fttc'ory  evasion  of  tlic  obUgations  of  tlicir  vow,  or 
to  po  into  winter  quarters  till  another  opening 
spriiij;  allows  them  to  prosecute  tlieir  designs. — 
Tiie  trappers  relate  a  ease  of  this  kind,  wiiieh  led 
to  !i  i-urious  incident.  A  war  party  of  HIackfect 
had  spent  the  se;iflon  in  Siekiiip;  for  tlieir  enemies 
witliout  HuceesH.  The  Htoriiis  of  approaehiiif;  win- 
ter had  hegiui  to  howl  around,  and  a  '.i-ish  to  re. 
turn  to  the  lofj  fires  and  IjulValo  meat,  and  liilari- 
ti""-,  uiid  frididships  of  the  eamp  of  the  tribe  in  the 
high  vales  of  the  Upper  ^lissouri,  had  become  ar- 
dent, wlien  a  lorlorn,  solitary  trapper,  who  had 
long  resided  among  them,  entered  their  camp. — 
Affectionate  and  sincere  greetings  passed  at  the 
moment  of  meeting.  The  trapper,  as  is  the  ens- 
torn,  was  invited  to  cat  ;  and  all  appeared  friend, 
ly  and  glad.  Hut  soon  the  Indians  became  re- 
Bcrv  .1,  and  whispered  ominously  among  Ihem- 
sclves.  At  length  came  to  the  ear  of  the  trapper 
liigh  word"  of  debate  in  regard  to  his  life.  They 
all  agreed  that  his  white  skin  indubitably  indi- 
cated  t\at  lie  ..elonged  to  tlie  "  (ireat  Tribe  of 
iheir  .atural  enemies,  and  that  wilh  the  blood 
ef  !•  white  upon  thoir  garments,  they  would 'have 
fuI.MIed  the  terms  of  their  vow,  and  could  return 
(o  their  fi lends  .-ind  tribe.  Rut  a  i)art  of  them  se- 
riously questioned  whether  the  sacred  names  of 
f-:^;'daiid  i)rotlicr,  which  they  had  for  years  ap- 
plied 'o  lum,  lei'J  not  so  changed  his  natural  rela- 
tionship <o  ihem,  that  the  tJreat  Spirit,  to  whom 
they  had  made  their  vow,  had  sent  him  among 
them  in  the  character  wliieh  they  themselves  had 
given  him — as  a  friend  and  brother.  If  so,  they 
reasoned  that  the  sacrifice  of  his  life  would  only 
anger  Him,  and  by  no  means  reheve  them  from 
the  obligations  of  their  vow.  Another  party 
reasoned  that  the  (jrcat  Spirit  had  sent  this  vie. 
till!  amorg  them  to  test  their  fidchty  to  Him. — 
\lv  had  indeed  been  their  friend  ;  they  had  called  | 
him  brother;  but  he  was  hIho  tin  u  natural  ene- i 
my  ;  and  that  the  (Jreat  One  to  whom  they  had  ! 
made  their  vow,  would  not  release  them  at  all 
from  its  obligations,  if  tliey  allowed  this  facti- 
tious relation  of  Iriendslup  to  interfere  with  obe- 
dience to  Himsflf.  The  other  party  rejoined, 
that  although  the  trapix.'r  was  their  natural  ene- 
my, he  was  not  one  within  the  meaning  of  their 
vov  that  the  takiiv  "f  his  life  woidd  he  an 
rvas,.  11  of  its  saeicd  obligations — a  blot  upon  their 
ootirage — and  an  outrage  upon  the  laws  of  friend- 
ship ;  that  they  could  find  other  victims,  but  that 
their  friend  could  not  find  another  life.  The 
other  party  rebutted,  that  the  trapper  was  con- 
fessedly their  natural  enemy  ;  that  the  conditiims 
of  their  vow  required  the  blood  of  their  natural 
enemy  ;  and  that  the  (ireat  Spirit  had  sufficient- 
ly shown  His  views  of  the  relativa  obligations  of 
friendship  and  obedience  to  Himself  in  s  nding 
the  trapper  to  their  camp.  The  trapper's  friends 
perceiving  that  the  obstinacy  of  their  opponents 
was  unlikely  to  yield  to  reason,  proposed  as  a  com- 
proinisc,  that,  since,  if  they  should  adjudge  the 
trapper  their  enemy  within  the  reqturcments  of 
their  vow,  his  blood  only  would  be  needed  to  stain 
their  garments,  lliey  woidd  agree  to  take  from  liini 
DO  much  M  might  be  neccwttry  for  that  purpote ; 


and  that  in  consideration  of  being  a  brother,  he 
should  retain  enough  to  keep  his  heart  aliv(\ — 
As  their  return  to  their  trilte  would  be  secured  by 
this  measure,  little  objection  was  raised  to  if. — 
The  flint  lancet  was  applied  to  the  veins  of  the 
white  man  ;  their  garments  were  died  wilh  his 
blood ;  they  departed  for  their  nation's  villagt!, 
and  the  poor  trapper  for  the  beaver  among  the 
hills. 

My  worthy  old  guide,  Kelly,  Iiad  often  seen 
these  mediein  lodges.  He  informed  me  that  many 
of  his  votive  offerings  U'fort^  mentioned  are  pi'r- 
niitted  to  decay  with  the  lodge'  in  which  they  are 
hung  ;  that  the  penalty  to  any  mortal  who  should 
dare  appropriate  them  to  his  use  was  death.  A 
certain  white  man,  however,  who  had  been  roblxid 
of  his  blanket  at  the  sotting  in  of  winter,  came 
upt)n  one  of  these  sacred  lodges  erected  by  the 
young  Arrapahoes,  which  contained,  among  other 
things,  a  blanket  that  seemed  well  cidculated  to 
shield  him  from  the  cold.  He  spread  it  over  liis 
shivering  frame,  and  very  unadvisciUy  went  into 
the  Ariapahoe  village.  The  Indians  knew  the 
sacred  dei)ositc,  held  a  council,  called  the  culprit 
before  them,  and  demanded  why  he  had  stolen 
from  the  Cireat  Spirit  .'  In  exculpation,  he  stated 
that  he  had  been  robbed  ;  that  the  Great  Spirit 
saw  him  naked  in  the  wintry  wind  ;  pitied  him  ; 
showed  him  the  aaered  lodge,  and  bade  him  take 
the  blanket.  "  That  seems  to  l)e  well,"  said  the 
principal  chief,  to  his  fellow. counsellors,  "  the 
(ireat  .Spirit  has  an  luidouhtcd  right  to  give  away 
his  own  projierty  ;"  and  the  trader  was  released. 

Among  the  several  personages  whom  i  chanced 
to  meet  at  Urown's  Hole,  was  an  old  Snake  In- 
dian,  who  saw  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  on  the 
head  waters  of  the  Missouri  in  1805.  He  is  the 
individual  of  his  tribe,  who  first  saw  the  explorers' 
cavalcade.  He  appears  to  have  Ijecn  galloping 
from  place  to  place  in  the  oltice  of  sentinel  to  the 
ShoBonic  <'anii),  when  he  suddenly  found  liimself 
in  the  very  presence  of  the  whites.  Astonishment 
iixci\  him  to  the  spot.  Men  with  faces  pale  as 
ashes,  had  never  been  seen  by  himself  or  nation. 
"  The  head  rose  high  and  round,  the  top  flat ;  it 
jutted  over  the  eyes  in  a  thin  rim  ;  their  skin  was 
loose  and  flowing,  and  of  various  colors."  His 
fears  at  length  overcoming  his  curiosity,  he  fled  in 
the  direction  of  the  Indian  encampment.  Hut 
being  stM'ii  by  the  whites,  they  pursued  and  brought 
him  to  their  camp ;  exhibited  to  liim  the  effects  of 
their  fire-anns — loaded  him  with  presents,  and  let 
him  go.  Having  arrived  among  his  own  people, 
he  told  them  he  had  seen  men  with  faces  pale  i* 
ashes,  who  were  makers  of  thunder,  lightning, 
&c.  This  informajion  astounded  the  whole  tribe. 
They  had  lived  many  years,  and  their  ancestors 
had  lived  many  more,  and  there  were  many  le- 
gends which  spoke  of  many  wonderful  things; 
but  a  talc  like  this  they  never  had  heard.  A 
council  was  therefore  assembled  to  consider  the 
matter.  The  man  of  strange  words  was  Blun- 
moned  U^fore  it ;  and  he  rehearsed,  in  substance, 
what  he  had  before  told  to  others ;  hut  was  not 
believed.  "  All  men  were  red,  and  tlierefore  he 
could  not  have  seen  men  as  pale  as  ashes."  "Tho 
(ireat  Spirit  made  the  thunder  and  the  lightning  ; 
he  therefore  could  not  has  seen  men  of  any  color 
that  eo\dd  produce  it.  He  had  secnlnolhing ;  ''• 
had  lied  to  his  chief,  and  should  die."    At  tliia 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Tirritory,  ifc. 


65 


stago  of  the  procccdiniTB,  the  culprit  produced  some '  fleas ;  tliat  tlic  Cohiinhia  river  was  unlit  for  nau. 
of  the  presents  whicli  he  had  received  from  (lie  (ration— fit  oidy  for  an  Indian  fisli-pond.  Such  a 
pule  men.  Thcsi-  beinfj  quite  as  new  to  thcin  us  j  dcseriiHion  of  Orcfron— tlie  part  of  the  American 
pale  faces  were,  it  wasdeterinincd  "tliiit  he  should  I  domain  repre'^ented  by  traders,  trappers,  and 
have  the  privilege  of  IcP-ding  his  jiidKCS  to  the  |  travellers,  u^-  most  delightful,  beautiful,  and  pro- 
place  where  he  declared  he  had  seen  these  strange  :  ductive— was  astonishing,  unlooked  for,  and  dis- 
people j  and  if  such  were  found  there,  he  should '|  eouraging.  And  did  I  not  recollect  that  Mr. 
be  exculpated ;  if  not,  these  liieseiits  were  to  be  '  Hichardson  had  reasons  for  desiring  to  increase 
considered  as  conclusive  evidence  against  liiiii,  that  'i  the  strength  of  his  party  through  the  dangerous 
he  dealt  with  evil  spirits,  and  that  he  was  worthy  jl  plains  towards  the  States,  I  should,  after  having 
of  death  by  the  arrows  of  his  kinlolks."  The  i)ale  I  seen  f)regon,  be  at  a  loss  to  divine  the  purpose  of 
men— the  thuiider.inakers— w(  re  loiii.;l,  and  were  ij  sueli  a  representation  of  it. 
witnesses  of  the  ixw.r  fellow's  story.  He  was  re.  ■\  If^tli.  Mr.  RichardsfMi's  ae.scriptions  of  Oregon 
leased  ;  and  has  ever  since  been  niueli  honored  and  ;'.  had  the  effect  to  draw  off  two  of  my  eonipam(,ns. 
loved  by  his  tribe,  and  every  white  man  in  the 
mountains.  He  is  now  about  81)  years  old,  and 
poor.  But  as  he  is  always  about  Fort  David 
Crockett,  he  is  never  permitted  to  want. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

An  Arrival  from  Knrl  Hall — An  Account  from  Oregon— Re* 
lurn  of  two  of  my  Co.npanions  loilie  Siauv— \  Slarlling: 
(Jonrliiion— An  Indian  tiuide— A  Karcwfll — How  a 
Ilorsp  .Stofiies  Geolojfs'— .A  Camp— Dotf  Matinn  super- 
ercedett — A  Scene— Slipelsli  nipt — Kule^ — Dp&ulation — 
IMidnigtit  Srenp  in  \\\i\  IMouiitaini— In('ian  .lim  and  tin* 
Buffalo — Hunfjry  .^^I'tmaclis — A  t'^at  Sli'H— Pine  Eyesighl 
— An  Old  'I'rappfr  i*icked  Up — Bwauiilul  Dhshti— "Ho-, 
H»s"— Mecli  llie  Bear  Killpr— A  ^-  d  1  Vile — /imniprnian 
WriiiuKs   «l.   as   lliey   rnluencnd    a   Sia-'viiijf    Horsp — 

*'U fi[ti ugh"  — Sleanihoal    .Sprinif — Natural     St)da 

Fountains — \piKhlKirii!}^  Land^Cflpp— A  Hard  Drivp— 
Valley  of  (Jh-ism — Nature's  Vaie— a  Heavy  March— 
Passing  the  Mountains — Maligniiy — A  (ItiarnimK  Gorgw 
—  Entrance  iitto  Oregon—  rii,f  South  Brancti  of  the  Co- 
lumbia—l''ori  Halt  and  iis  Ho.pitnlities. 

17th.  An  event  of  Great  interest  oeenrred  this 
day.  Ft  was  the  arrival  of  Paul  Uiehardson  and 
three  of  his  companions  from  I'oit  lliill.  Tlilsold 
Yankee  wooilsnian  had  been  upon  one  of  liis  fa.' 
Vf)rite  suminer  trips  IVoin  St.  l/ouis  to  the  borders 
of  Oregon.  He  had  acted  as  guide  and  hunter  to 
a  party  of  missionarirs  to  the  Oregon  Indians. — 
Several  other  pi^rsons  from  the  \v<'stc'rn  .'States  had 
aeeonipanicd  them  ;  One  with  the  lofty  intention 
of  eouiini.'ring  Caliloriiia  ;  and  otliirs  with  the  in- 
tention of  trading.  iMrining,  &(!.,  on  the  lower 
Cohnnbia  ;  anil  olhrrs  to  (-x])lore  the  Roeky 
.Mountains,  anil  the  wiiiidirs  oi-Xattire  along  the 
shores  of  the  Paeifie.  The  events  of  their  tour 
were  freely  ilisensscd.  They  hat' storms  of  hail 
and  Innnaii  wrath.  The  eoni|ueri)r  of  California 
had  been  disposed  to  iiet  the  general  before  he  had 
received  his  epaulettes  ;  had  provei',  to  be  so  trou- 
blisome  that  he  uas  expelled  froi.i  camp  a  siiort 
distance  from  the  frontier;  ae.il  obliged  to  ride, 
sleep,  and  eat,  at  a  eoinfortiiile  dislanec  from  his 
companions,  during  ;lv-  lemainder  uf  the  jonrnev. 
The  missionaries,  too,  Messrs.  .Monger  and  Grit'- 
fith,  and  their  ladies,  had  had  eauses  of  irritability. 
.So  thitt,  between  all  the  eonflieting  feelings  and 
opinions  of  the  parly,  their  little  camp,  it  was 
said,  was  frei|Liently  lidl  of  trouble.  Oregon  also 
came  under  diseiission.  Mr  Rieliardson  had 
traveled  over  the  territory;  knew  it  wi'U ;  it  was 
not  as  prodiietive  as  New  Knglanil ;  15  bushels 
of  wheat  to  the  iicre  was  an  extraiprdinary  crop  ; 
corn  and  potatoes  did  ii  it  yield  thi;  seed  planted  ; 
rain  fell  ineessaiitlv  live  months  of  the  year;  the 
remainiler  was  ui,  ksseil  even  with  diw  ;  that  the 
Indians  and  white:  residing  there,  had  the  fever 
and  ague,  or  bilious  fever,    the  year  about;  that 


They  had  no  evidence  to  oppose  to  his  account ; 
he  had  resided  two  years  in  the  Territory,  and  on 
the  knowledge  acquired  by  that  meann,  had  repre- 
■-ented  it  to  be  in  no  sense  a  desirable  place  of 
abode.  They  tlierel'ore  forsook  the  chase  after  a 
desert,  and  joined  him  for  the  green  glades  of  tlio 
valley  States.  On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  they 
left  me.  It  was  the  most  disheartening  event 
which  had  befi'Uen  me  on  the  journey.  Oakley 
and  V.'ood  had  stood  by  me  in  the  trials  and  storms 
of  the  plains — had  evinced  a  firmness  of  ptir|x)sc 
equal  to  every  emergency  that  had  occurred — 
were  men  on  whom  reliance  could  be  placed — hu- 
mane  men — always  ready  to  do  their  duty  prompt- 
ly and  cheerfully.  It  was  painful,  therefore,  to 
l)art  with  them  at  a  lime  when  their  services  were 
most  needed.  .Mone  in  the  heart  of  the  Rocky 
.Mountains — a  traveler  through  the  range  of  the 
Blackfoot  jwar-parties— in  bad  health — no  men 
save  poor  old  Ulair,  and  the  worse  than  useless 
\  agabond  Smith,  alias  Carroll,  to  aid  me  in  resist- 
ing these  savages.  I  felt  alone.  I  was  indeed  kind- 
vl  otTi  red  quarters  for  the  winter  at  Brown's  Hole. 
But  if  I  accepted  them,  I  should  find  it  impostblc 
to  return  to  the  States  the  next  year.  I  deter, 
mined  therefore  to  reach  the  Columbia  river  that 
season,  iie  the  risk  and  manner  what  it  might. — . 
-Veeorclinglv  I  engaged  a  .Snake  Indian,  whom  the 
whites  called  ''.Iiiii,"ti)  pilot  me  to  Fort  Hall — 
march  to  eo'n'H'nce  on  the  morning  of  the  19tl', 
— distance  iiOO  miles — compensation  .^)0  loads  of 
ammunition,  and  three  bimehes  of  beads. 

There  is  in  this  valley,  and  in  some  other  parts 
of  'he  mountains,  a  friiit  called  bullberry.  It  is 
the  most  delightful  acid  in  the  vegetable  king- 
dom ;  of  the  size  of  the  common  red  currant, 
with  larger  seeds  than  arc  found  in  that  fruit ; 
color  deej)  red ;  grows  npon  bushes  8  or  10  feet 
high,  which  in  general  appearance  resemble  a 
young  beech  tree.  Of  these  berries  I  obtauicd  a 
small  quiuitily,  had  a  dog  butchered,  took  a  j  oimd 
or  two  of  dried  buffalo  meat  which  Mr.  St.  Clair 
kindly  gave  me,  purchased  a  horse  of  Mr.  R  jbin- 
son  for  the  use  of  Blair,  and  on  the  moniing  of 
the  lillh  of  Augu.st  left  the  hospitalities  of  V'ort 
David  Crockett  for  the  dreary  wastes  and  starv'ncf 
plains  between  it  and  I'ort  Hall.  Blair,  Smu  ; 
and  my  guide  Jim,  eonstitnted  my  whole  force. 
.\uinerous  war  parlies  of  Blaekfeet  and  Sioux 
were  hovering  over  my  trail.  If  discovered  by 
them,  death  w.as  certain  ;  if  not,  and  starvation 
did  not  assail  us,  we  might  reach  the  waters  of 
\  Snake  River.  At  all  events  the  trial  was  to  Im; 
\  le  de  ;  and  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.  we  wcrc  winding 


what  little  of  himan  life  was  lelt  by  these  causes    our  way  up  the  Shcet.-ikadec. 
of  destruction,  wkh  consumed  by  im'.squitocs  and  '\     Of  the  regrets  ut  leaving  this  beautiful  little  val- 
r 


Travels  in  the  Cheat  Western  Prairies, 


ey,  tlinre  was  no  one  that  I  remember  morn  vividly 
than  that  of  parting  with  niy  old  (fuide.  Killy  was 
a  man  of  many  r.xcollcnt  qualities,     llewas  brave 
'vithout  ostentation,  kind  without  makinp;  vou  feel 
uij  obligation ;  and  preferred  on  all  occaHions  the 
liappinepsofotherB  to  his  own  ease  or  safety-  The 
river  during  the  twelve  miles  travel  of  the  day,  ap- 
])care(l  to  be  alx)iit  101)  yards  wide,  a  rapid  eur. 
rent  two  feet  deep,  water  limpid.    The  mountains 
on  either  side  ros(^  half  a  mile  from  the.  river  in 
dark  stratified  masses,  1,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  stream,     (hi  their  sides  were  a  few  shrub  cc. 
dars.  Tho  lower  hills  were  eovcred  with  the  hated  | 
wild  wormw(X)d  and   priekly  pear.     The  banks 
were  of  white  clay,  alternated  with  the  loose  light 
colored  sandy  soil  of  the  mountain  districts.     The  • 
rocks  were  quartz,  red  sand  stone  and  lime  stone  ! 
Our  camp  was  pitched  at  night  on  the  high  bank  '. 
of  the  stream  among  the  bushes  ;  and  a  supper  of; 
stewed  dgg  me.'jt  prepared  us  for  sleep.  I 

20th.  At  7  o'clock   in    the   morning  we  had 
breakfasted  and  were  on  our  way.     AVc  traveled 
three  miles  up  the  east  bank  of  the  river  and  came  ■ 
to  a  mountain  through  which  it  broke  its  way  with 
n  noise  that  indicated  the  fall  to  be  great,  and  the 
channel  to  be  a  deep  rugged  chasm.     Xear  the  : 
place  where  it  leaves  the  chasm,  wo  turned  to  the 
right  and  followed  up  a  rough,  ueep  gorge,  the  (lis. 
lance  of  tivo  miles,  and  emerged  into  a  plain.    This 
gorge  had  been  formed  by  the  action  of  u  tributary  , 
of  Green  IJivcr  upon  the  soft  red  sand  stone  tha't 
formed  the  i)rcei|)ice8  around.     It  winds  in  the 
distance  of  live  miha  to  every  point  of  compass.  ; 
Along  nnich  of  its  course  alsothe  elifli*  hang  over  ,, 
the  stream  in  such  manner  as  to  render  it  impossi- j, 
ble  to  travel  the  water  side.     Hence  tho  necessitv, 
in  ascending  tho  gorge  of  clambering  over  in'i- 
H'enso  precipices,  along  brinks  of  yawning  rav- 
e-ns,  on  paths  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  in  width, 
with  not  a  bush  to  cling  to  in  the  event  of  n  false  ■' 
step.     And  yet  our  Indian  horses  were  so  well  usdl 
to  passL.i  of  the  kind,  that  Ihey  traveled  llie  m  with- 
out (ear  or  accident  till  the  worst  were  behind  us. 

How  delusive  the  past  as  a  test  of  the  future  ? 
I  was  felicitating  myself  upon  our  good  fortun(!  as  : 
the  caravan  wound   its  way  slowly  over  a  sharp 
elifV  before  me,   when   the  shout   from  the  men 
in  advance,  "  well  done  I'uibla,"'  hi'.stcncd  mc  to 
the  top  of  the  ridge,     My  Pmbla  murwhadlifl  the 
track.     Instead  of  fillowing  a  wide,  wcll-beaten 
way  down  the  monntnin.  she  in  her  wisdom  had 
chosen  to  thread  the  shelf  of  a  chlf,  which,  wide  \ 
at  the  place  where  it  H]irnng  from  tin'  pathway,  i 
gradually  became  narrower  till  it  was  lost  in  the! 
|)erpcndieular  face  of  the  .Mountain.     She  was  un-  : 
der  a  high  bulky  back  at  the  time,  and  before  she 
had  qiute  explored  the  nethermost  inch  of  the  in- i 
teresting  stratum  she  hpi  rjied  dis|)oscd  to  trace  to  its 
lowest  dip,  the  centre  of  gravity  was   suddeidv 
thrown  without  liie  base  :  and  over  she  reeled,  anil 
Tcil  ten  or  twelve  leet  among  broken  rocks,  and 
rolled  and  tumbled  (illO  feet  more  of  short  periten- 
dicular  descents  and  inclined  plains  into  Ihe  "(ream 
below.  On  descending  and  axaminingher.  1  found 
her  horribly  mangled — the  blood  rinuiing  from  the 
nostrils,  cars  and  oilier  parts  of  the  iHidy.     As  it  , 
was  apj)arent  she  would  sijin  die.  I  stripped  her  of  i; 
'-'r  packs  and  gear,  drove  her  to  a  jjlat  of  grass  * 
where  she  could  IiikI  food,  should  kIio  need  il,  and  i 
left  Jier  to  ber  fate.  i 


':     This  accident  being  disposed  of  we  emerged  from 
this  gorge,  traveled  over  barren  gravelly  plains  dot. 
'  ted  with  pyramidal  hillsof  the  same  material,  whose, 
sides  were  belted  with  strata  of  coarso  gray  sand 
stone.    About  ■!  o'clock  P.  M.,  Jim  halted  beside  a 
:  little  brook,  and  pointing  ahead  said  "  wat,  ugh, 
u — gh;"  by  which  I  understood  thatthe  next  water 
on  our  way  was  too  far  distant  to  be  reached  that 
:  night ;  and  we  encami)ed.  The  scenery  to  the  west 
I  was  very  beautiful.  An  hundred  rods  from  our  camp 
in  that  direction  rost;  an  apparently  perfect  pyra- 
I  mid  of  regular  stratified  black  rocks,  alwut  601)  feet 
in  bight,  with  a  basilar  diameter  of  about  800  feel, 
and   partially   covered  with    bushes.     Beyond  it 
some   ■")()0  yards,  crept  away  a  circling  ridge  of 
;  the  same  kind  of  rocks,  leaving  a  beautiful  lawn 
;  between.  And  still  beyond,  GO  miles  to  tho  south- 
west, through  a  break  in  the  hills  that  lay  in  clus. 
.  tcrs  over  the  intervenuig  country,  a  [Kjrtion  of  the 
I  Anahuac  Kangc  was  seen,  B\i'eeping  away  in  the 
direction  of  the  (ireat  Salt  Lake. 

Jim  had  turned  his  horse  looso  as  soon  as  he  saw 
we  were  di.^posed  to  encamp  according  to  hi.s 
■  wishes,  and  was  away  with  his  rifle  to  the  hills. 
In  an  instant  he  was  on  their  higlits,  creeping 
stealthily  among  the  bushes  and  rocks,  and  tho 
crack  of  his  rifle  and  the  tumbling  of  somo  kind 
of  game  over  th(^  elift's  immediately  succeeded. 
More  nimble  and  sure  of  step  than  the  mountain 
goat,  ho  sprang  down  again  from  clill"  to  clifl' 
reached  the  plain,  and  the  next  moment  was  in 
camp  crying  "  hos,  ugh,  yes."  I  seiTt  my  horse 
and  b.'-ought  in  his  gauK — a  noble  buck  antelope 
of  about  forty  ])ounds  weight.  In  consequence 
of  this  windfall  our  dog  meat  was  thrown  among 
the  willows  for  the  behoof  of  the  wolves.  My 
guide,  poor  fellow  had  eaten  nothing  since  wo  left 
the  Fort.  His  tribe  have  a  superstition  of  somo 
kind  which  forbids  them  the  use  of  such  meat. 
A  "  dog  eater''  is  a  term  of  reproach  among  them. 
If  one  of  their  number  incurs  the  displeasure  of 
another,  he  is  called  "Arrapahoe,"  the  name  of 
the  tribe  I)l■eviou^ly  described,  who  fatten  these 
a  ninials  for  some  great  annual  feast.  Jim's 
creed,  however,  raised  no  objections  to  the  ilesh 
of  his  antelope.  He  ate  enormously — washed 
himself  neatly — combe<l  his  long  dark  hair — 
pulled  out  his  beard  with  right  thumb  and  left 
fore  finger  nails,  and  "turned  in." 

2i«t.  Twenty  miles  to-day.  The  ride  of  the 
forenoon  wasover  plains  and  hills  of  coarse  gravel, 
destiliu.  of  grass,  timber,  or  brush,  the  every 
wheii.:  present  wild  wonnwo<id  excepted.  That 
of  the  alternoon  was  among  broken  liills,  alter- 
nately of  gravel  and  brov.n  sand,  ben:  and  there 
dotted  with  a  tuft  of  bunch  grass.  From  some 
few  of  the  hills  protruded  strata  of  beautiful  slate. 
The  Imltom  lands  of  the  river  even,  were  as  bar. 
Ten  as  Sahara.  The  only  living  things  seen,  were 
the  small  prairie  wolf  and  flocks  of  magpie.  This 
bird  inhaiiits  the  moat  dreary  portions  of  the 
mountains,  and  seems  to  delight  in  making  tho 
parched  and  sil<nt  deserts  more  lonely  by  its 
oruinons  eroiik  of  welcome  to  its  desolate  habita. 
tion.  Tlie  raven,  indeed,  was  alioiil  us  throwing 
liis  funereal  wing  u|)on  the  light  of  the  setting 
sun.  In  fine,  lo.day,  as  often  belbre,  I  tbuntl 
nothing  in  nature  from  which  to  derive  a  singlo 
pulse  of  pleasure,  save  the  vnstncss  of  dosolate 
wastes,  the  tombs  of  tho  waslungs  of  I  lie  Flood  I 


in  the  RocTcy  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  9^c. 


6t 


Near  night,  howrvfr,  wc  were  gratified  to  fiud  a 
few  dfcrppid  old  cotton-wood  trees  on  the  bank  of 
the  Shertskadco  among  which  to  encamp.  Onr 
horncF  having  liad  Htlle  food  for  the  last  48  hours, 
devoured  with  eager  appetite  Iho  dry  grass  along 
the  banks.  Since  leaving  Brown's  Hole,  our  course 
had  been  nearly  due  north. 

M<1.  'I'raveied  u))  (Jrcen  River  about  three 
miles,  crossed  it  three  times  an<l  took  to  the  hills 
on  its  western  side.  The  course  of  the  river  as 
fur  as  seen  in  this  vail,  y,  is  nearly  wiiilli  ;  the  hot- 
torn  and  banks  generally  of  gravel  ;  the  face  of 
the  country  a  dry,  hiirren,  imdidating  plain.  Our 
course,  after  leaving  the  river,  was  northwest  by 
north.  Alwut  2  o'clock  we  struck  Ham's  Fork, 
a  tributary  of  (ireen  River,  anil  encamped  near 
the  water  side.  This  stream  probably  |)ours  down 
immenso  Imdies  of  water  wlien  the  snow  niella 
upon  the  neiglil)orin(r  highlands  ;  for  its  channel, 
at  the  place  where  we  struck  it,  was  half  a  mile 
in  width  and  iiOO  feet  deep.  Very  little  water  is 
said  to  run  in  it  in  July,  August  and  Sej)teniber. 
The  current  was  three  or  four  inches  in  depth, 
a  rod  wide  and  sluggish.  Tliree  bules  appeared 
in  the  northeast,  about  \'i  o'clock,  15  miles  dis. 
tant.  One  of  them  resembled  a  vast  churi'li,  sur. 
mounted  by  a  perp(  iKhciiliir  sliafl  of  rock,  jiroba- 
bly  3U0  feet  in  bight.  The  swelling  base  ri'sein. 
bled  in  color  the  sands  of  this  region.  The  rock 
shaft  was  dark,  i)robably  Imsalt.  Wy  the  side  of 
this,  springing  immediately  from  the  ])l:iin,  rose 
anolbcr  shaft  of  rock,  about  KIO  feet  high,  of 
regular  outline  and  aliout  lo  fiet  in  diameter. — 
Seven  or  eight  miles  to  the  north  rose  another  bute, 
a  perpendicular  shaft  bW  or  fiO  feet  in  bight,  rest- 
ing uiHJii  a  base  of  hills  which  rise  alK)ut  .300  feet 
above  the  jilain.  lieyond  tluse  biites  to  the  east, 
the  country  sccincd  to  lie  an  open  plain.  To  the 
south  of  Ihi'in  extends  a  range  of  dark  mountains 
reaching  far  into  the  dimly-disceruCTl  neighbor- 
hood of  lAiiig's  I'eak.  The  whole  circle  of  vis- 
ion presented  no  other  nn-iins  of  life  for  man  or 
beast  than  a  few  siiuill  ]ialeb(sof  dry  grass,  and 
the  water  of  the  stream.  .'\I;my  of  the  sandy  blull's 
wire  covered  with  the  prickly  pear  and  wild"  worm- 
wood. Generally,  liowivcr,  nothing  green,  noth- 
ing but  the  burnt  unproduclive  waste  ajipeared, 
which  no  art  of  man  can  reclaim.  Vet  far  in  the 
north,  the  snowy  peaks  of  ^\'ind  Hivcr  .Moun- 
tains, and  to  the  southwest  a  porlion  of  the  Ami- 
huae.  ridge,  indicated  that  it  might  be  possible  lo 
tiiid  along  the  borders  of  tbis  great  grave  of  veg. 
elation,  green  vales  ami  purling  brooks  lo  allevi- 
ate the  desolation  of  the  scene. 

Wc  traveled  I'l  miles  to-day  and  enenmpod 
npim  the  bank  of  the  stream  ;  cooked  supper 
and  wrapping  ourselves  in  our  bl:mk<ls,  with 
saddles  lor  pillows,  and  cuit,'iiu''d  by  the 
starry  firmament,  slept  sweetly  among  tbi^  over- 
hanging  willows.  i\ear  midnight  the  light  of 
the  moon  arousid  me.  It  was  a  lovdv  iiighl. 
The  stars  se<ined  smaller  than  tiny  do  in 
less  elevated  situations,  but  not  less  iHiiulifid. 
For,  although  ihey  are  not  so  brilliant,  they  burn 
Hieadijy,  brightly  on  the  hours  of  night  in  thi>se 
magnillcent  w;istes.  I(  was  miilnighl.  The 
wolves  are  correct  time-kee|s-rs.  I  bad  scarcely 
viewed  the  delightful  scene  iiroimd  me,  when 
tbes<'  sleepless  sentinelH  of  the  deserts  raised  their 
midnight  liow  .    It  rung  along  the  chambers  of 


'  the  mountains,  was  at  intervals  taken  up  by  ken- 
nel after  kennel,  till,  in  the  deep  and  distant  vales 
it  yielded  again  to  the  all-pervadins;  silence  of 
night.  This  is  one  of  the  habits  that  instinct  has 
taught  their  race.  As  soon  as  the  first  light  of 
morning  apjiears  in  the  east,  they  raise  a  rcveilli' 
■  howl  in  the  prairies  of  the  Western  States,  which, 
keeping  company  with  the  hours,  swells  along  the 
vast  plains  from  Te.\as  to  the  sources  of  the  IMis. 
sis.-,ippi,  and  from  Missouri  to  the  depths  of  tlic 
lioeky  Mountain.:.  All  day  they  lurk  in  silence. 
.\t  imdnight  anetl  'r  howl  awakens  the  sleeping 
wilderness—  more  horrible  anil  prolonged  ;  and  ii 
is  remarkable  with  what  exactness  tliey  hit  the 
hour. 

23d.  We  were  u|)  this  morning  before  the  light ; 
and  while  the  sun  rose  in  the  (irnat  Gap,  mounted 
our  jadc'l  horses  for  the  d.ays'  ride.  As  we  moved 
onwa-  ijion  the  elevated  blntT"s  which  l)order  the 
rive.,  the  light  of  the  morning  showed  the  biites 
clearly  on  the  eastcm  horizon.  Jim  paid  little 
regard  to  the  course  of  the  stream  to-day ;  but 
struck  a  bee  live  for  sonii^  object,  unseen  by  ii«, 
across  the  hills — at  times  among  wild  wormwood, 
at  others  among  sliaqi,  flinty  stones,  bo  tliickly 
laid  over  the  ground  that  none  but  an  Indian 
horse  would  travel  over  them.  We  occasionally 
approacbi'd  the  stream,  and  were  gratified  with  the 
appearance  of  a  few  solitary  old  cotton-wood 
trees  on  its  banks.  A  |ioor,  stinted  shrub  willow, 
too,  made  great  efliat  here  and  there  lo  prolong 
existence,  but  with  little  success.  Even  in  one 
little  no(jk  the  wild  rose,  currant  and  bulllicrry 
bushes  had  the  ctVronlcry  to  bear  leaves.  About 
•1  o'clock,  P.  .M.,  small  patches  of  dry  grass  wore 
seen  in  the  ravines.  On  one  of  these  were  five 
buft'alo  ;  but  they  proved  to  us  mcro  delightful 
to  the  sight  than  to  anv  other  sense  ;  since  I  was 
unable  to  induce  mv  guide  to  halt  a' id  hunt  them. 
Tbis  apparentiv  unpardonable  slul  bormiess  was 
afterward  explained.  lie  had  tli  >  only  animal 
which  could. run  fast  enough  to  ipproach  thein 
— he  al'ine  cfiuld  ride  him — and  I  aviiig  lost  bis 
right  tbmnb,  pretested  that  he  coul  I  not  discharge 
his  |)iece  from  a  iMinmig  horse,  hut  liaving  no 
inle;-|neter  with  us  t"  render  his  furious  protesta- 
tions intelligible,  I  atl'-ibuted  bis  unwillingness  to 
lay  in  a  supply  of  good  meat  hereto  mere  mali- 
cious indiflerence.  .\'  5  o'clock  we  came  upon 
a  pl.it  of  excellent  gra'S  around  a  clump  of  yellow 
pines.  Near  tbis,  v-cary  and  hungry,  wo  made 
onr  camp  lor  the  night  ;  ale  the  half  of  Ilia 
meat  in  our  jiossesH.on — a  mere  mite — and  gorged 
ourselves  with  wild  'urrants,  which  grew  plentiful- 
ly among  the  pines,  u  itil  the  darkness  bade  us  cease. 
Course  as  ycsteribn  ;  the  hutes  out  of  sight  dur- 
ing the  aften>'  ,11.  We  siijilKised  we  had  trav- 
eled 20  mil'  s  ;  wpiither  exceedingly  warm. 

21lli.  Uodeon  a  fast  Irol  tillalioiit  ."!  o'clock,  I*. 
>r.  sialic  almut  2.')  miles.  Our  route  lay  over 
sar  dy  and  gravelly  swells,  and  the  bottom  lands 
of  Ham's  Fork;  the  latter,  like  the  former,  were 
well  nigh  destitute  of  vegetation.  \\'hen  alxmt 
to  encamp  we  had  the  excellent  fortune  to  espy 
an  antelope  on  a  blull'hard  by.  He  fell  before  the 
well-levcleil  rillc  of  our  one-thumbeil  guide.  .\ 
fat  one  he  was  loo ;  just  such  an  one  an  the  ini- 
aginalioufl  of  our  hungry  slomacln  hail,  all  the 
day,  licen  figuring  to  themselves  would  aff'ord  a 
plcusttnl  variety  in  the  matter  of  starvation.    The 


68 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


circle  of  vision,  tlie  last  day  "r  two,  had  biTii 
very  niuch  rir('u:iis('rlbed  by  llio  liirrfasini;  sizo 
o,  the  umliiUitiiii;  liluIVs,  anioiiir  which  our  way 
usually  ran.  And  from  thtir  tops,  whenever  we 
chanced  to  (JO  over  them,  neither  (he  Mind  Kiv- 
er  Mountains  nor  tlie  Anahuae  Kaiifre  were  visi- 
ble. In  all  direelioMS,  lo  the  limit  of  siirht,  rolled 
away  the  dead,  lealUess.  thirdly  swells.  Wolves 
and  ravens  live  anionir  iluin  ;  lint  whenc'  they 
dcr'vc  subsistence  is  a  diHieuK  |ir(jblem  even  for 
themselves  to  solve.  Tlieir  houlinifs  and  iToak- 
ings  evidently  came  from  famished  mouths. 

!25th.  Fifleen  miles  to-day  alon;;  tlie  river; 
course  as  on  the  2ltli,  X.  W.  by  W..  .imonu  the 
bluffs  that  border  the  stream.  ( >r  if  that  were  tor- 
tous,  we  traveled  from  bend  lo  bend  over  Ibe  table 
lands  on  either  side.  In  the  valley  of  the  stre;.m 
small  groves  of  yoimir  and  tlirilty  eotton-wood 
trees,  currant  bushes,  and  Ibe  hIaeU  alder,  irave  us 
hopes  of  soon  seeini;;  Ibe  grasses  and  tlouers,  and 
the  cool  springs  of  Ihe  highlands,  between  us  and 
the  Great  Beaver  River.  The  day,  iiowevi  r,  was 
sultry  ;  scarcely  a  breath  of  wind  moved  ;  the  dust 
that  rose  from  our  track  lay  on  the  air  as  the 
smoke  of  a  village  does  on  a  still  May  morning. — 
So  that  these  occasion.d  apiiearanees  of  vegetable 
life  imparted  less  pleainire  than  they  would  have 
done  if  we  had  been  able  to  see  them  through  ano- 
ther medimn  than  the  dripping  mud,  manufactured 
from  dust  and  ])ers]iiralion.  Xear  mid-day.  we 
crossed  Ibe  river  Irom  its  northern  to  its  southern 
side,  and  were  emergiuir  from  the  bushes  whieb 
entangled  our  egress,  when  Jim,  uttering  a  shrill 
whoop,  pointing  to  a  solitary  horseman  urLnni;  bis 
horse  up  tlu'  bluff  an  half  mile  belowus.  Meekon- 
inghimtons,  we  dismounted  to  allow  our  ja<led 
animals  to  feed  until  be  should  arrive.  In  the 
style  of  a  true  mountaineer,  he  dashed  ii])  'o  us  on 
a  rapi<l  galloj),  greeted  us  with  as  lie;n'ty  .;  fX  ake  of 
the  hand  as  be  could  have  bestowed  iijmn  i  bro- 
ther, and  asked  our  names  and  destinition  ;  said 
his  name  was  "  Madison  (Jordon,  an  iiide[)eiident 
drappcr,  that  he  was  bound  lo  UroWn's  lie  le  for 
his  Hijuaw  and  '  possililrs.'  and  was  glad  to  sc  ns," 
in  less  time  than  is  usually  <niployed  in  saying  half 
as  much;  and  accepting  an  invitation  to  encamp 
with  us.  he  continued  to  express  bis  pleasure  at 
seeing  us  till  our  attention  was  diverted  from  him 
by  a  halt  for  the  nii;ht. 

These  remnants  of  the  gical  lrappiii!r  parties 
of  Ihe  American  Fur  Company,  eommoidv  inaki' 
Hrown's  Hole  their  winter  <juarters.  Indeed  I  be- 
lieve the  owners  of  that  post  to  be  old  Irappirs  of 
the  Company,  who,  having  lost  all  Ibeir  relish  lor 
former  habits  of  life,  bv  a  loni;  'esidencc'  in  ihc 
mountains,  have  eslabhshed  themselves  there  in 
order  to  bring  around  them,  not  only  the  means 
of  subsistence  according  to  their  tastes,  but  their 
merry  old  eoinpauions  with  their  tales,  jests,  and 
songs,  and  honest  ami  brave  hearts.  (Jordon.like 
all  other  trappers  whom  1  saw  in  the  mountains, 
was  convinced  that  tbere  were  so  few  beaver,  so 
little  meat,  and  so  many  dangers  ami  iig  lliein, 
that  '•  a  white  man  bad'no  business  there."  He 
therefore  w.is  going  for  bis  s(|Uawand  "  possibb'S," 
pri'paratoi'v  to  dc  siaiidinix  llie  Cnhimbia  lo  open  a 
iarm  in  the  valley  ol  Ih.  Willamette.  He  said 
that  was  also  the  mtenlion  of  nearly  all  his  IVIlow 
trappers.  They  pio|)<jsed  to  take  with  them  their 
Indian  wives  and  chiklrcn,  settle  in  one  nciglibor- 


liood  and  cultivate  the  earlli  or  hunt,  as  inclination 
or  neeessilv  might  suggest,  and  thus  |)ass  the  even- 
ing  of  their  days  among  the  wild  pleasures  of  that 
delightful  wilderness. 

ytilh.  Course  northwest;  distance  :JI)  miles; 
some  times  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  again 
over  the  swells  to  avoid  its  windings.  The' eouii- 
Iry  tbrongh  which  we  passed  to-daj-,  was  in  some 
respects  more  interesting  Ib.aii  any  we  had  seen 
siuc<'  leaving  liiinvn's  Hole.  Instead  of  plateaux, 
baked  and  lliuly,  or  hills  of  loose  nn))roduetive 
lf>am  and  sand,  shorn  by  perpetual  drongbl  of 
tlower.  shrub  and  tree,  a  journey  of  'JO  miles  over 
whieh  would  hardly  cross  grass  enough  to  feed  a 
do/.di  horses  a  single  day,  Ihe  slopes  of  alhousand 
spherical  bills,  as  green  as  Ihe  fields  of  the  Slates 
in  .May,  sent  I'orth  the  sweet  fragrance  of  teeming 
ve(retation;  littli'  stn'ams  ran  away  among  tin' 
black,  white  iiiid  oninge  pebbles;  and  the  dande- 
lion, anemone,  and  other  flowers  rejoiced  in  the 
spring  day  breezes  which  cre|)t  over  them.  It  was 
.May  indeed  here.  The  snow  had  1  ilily  disap. 
peared,  and  Ibe  r.iins  had  still  later  been  falling  as 
tlu'v  do  in  April  in  other  places.  The  insects  were 
pipini;  Ihe  note  of  an  opening  year.  It  wastlic 
dividing  rid^fi'  between  !!''•  tributaries  of  the  ."^beet- 
skadee  and  llnat  Hear  Rive.  ;  and  yet  not  a  ridge. 
When  viewed  from  its  hii^best  points,  it  .appeared 
an  elevated  |)lateau  of  slightly  conical  swells,  so 
raised  above  the  vast  deserts  on  Ihe  east  of  it,  as  to 

I  attract  moisture  trom  the  clouds.     The  soil  of  Ibis 

'  region  is  however  poor,  not  sullleient  to  bear  tim- 
ber. The  grasses  (rrow  rankly  over  most  of  its  sur- 
face ;  and  those  jiarts  which  are  barren,  are  cover- 
ed with  red  or  white  sand,  thai  contrasts  beauti- 
hillv  with  the  matted  green  ofother  ])ortious.     In 

I  a  word  it  was  one  (jf  those  places  among  the  moun- 
tains, where  all  i.^  pure.     There  Ibe  air  is  dense — 

'the  water  cold — the  vegetation  fresh;  there  Ihi: 
snow  lies  nine  months  of  the  year,  and   when  it 

'evenluallv   flees  before   the  warm  suns  of  ,lune 

■  and  .lulv,  the  earth  is  clothed  with  vegetation  al- 
inost  in    a  dav.     Alioul   sunset  we    deseendi'd   a 

'  sharp  declivity  of  broken  rocks,  and  encamped  on 
a  small  steam  running   north.     My   indefatigabb' 

j.lim  Shosbonie   killed  an  antelope  tor  our  suppers. 

;  An  unexpected  favor  this.  l'"or,  from  tlie  repre- 
sentatious  given  me  of  this  part  of  my  route,  1  ex- 

'  pei'ted  to  commence  here,  a  long  consuming  fist, 
which  would  not  he  broken  till  I  reached  Fort  Hall 

j  or  my  grave. 

t!7lli.  Our  last  niglifs  encampment  proved  to 
have  been  on  a  branch  of  Ihe  Great  Bear  River — 
the  principal,  if  not  the  only  feeder  of  the  Great 
Salt  Lake.  AVe  started  down  alomj'  its  verdant 
li'ile  valley  about  7  o'clock  'ii  the  loining.  and 
reaehid  Ihe  main  river  al)ou*  2  .tl.  It  was  211 
vards  wide — water  two  feet  (  "  and  transparent, 
enrrmt  four  miles  ])er  hour,  '  m  of  brown  sand 
and  gravel.  .V  Iter  feeding  our;':  als  we  descended 
the  river  till  1  o'ckick.  and  ha'  on  its  banks  for 
the  nii;lit.  We  had  traveleil  ..()  niibs.  'I'lie 
mountains  which  beinmed  ill  the  valli  y  weii' 
generally  of  a  conical  form,  prill  itive,  and  oflen 
verdant.  Their  height  varied  from  ;")I10  to  2,")ll(l 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  stream.  The  Imtloin 
lands  were  from  one  lo  three  miles  wide,  of  a  loose, 
dry,  gravelly  soil,  covered  with  withered  bunch 
grass.  By  the  waler-side  grew  various  kinds  of 
trees,  as  quakingasp,  black  biieh    and  willows; 


in  the  Rocky  Mounlains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  c^r. 


69 


;ilao  shrubs  oi'  various  kinds,  as  llio  black  alder,  I 
small  willow,  wild  wormwood,  liliirk  (Mirraiit  and 
service  biTi-y.     In  the  ravines   of  the  inoMiituins 
gloves  of  trees  sometijues   a|i]ieared   peering   up 
luxuriantly  aiuougthe  blaek  projef'liui;  elill's. 

i28tli.  An  early  risinir,  a  luirried  meal,  and  a 
rapid  sadillinf;  and  paekin<r  of  horses,  started  us 
I'roui  eamp  at  (i  o'i'loc'k.  While  };ir(lin|r  our  sad- 
die  animals — the  last  act  iloue  in  breakiuir  up 
eamp  in  mountain  life — Jim's  eajrle  eye  diseerned 
in  the  distanee  down  the  river,  '•  bos,  hos."  Indian 
like,  for  We  had  bet^ome  sueh  in  our  habits,  we  put 
new  eapsoii  our  rifles,  inoinited  ipiieklv,  and  eir. 
<  led  out  behind  a  barricade  of  brush-wood  in  order 
to  ascertain  the  number,  color  and  purpose  of  such 
unoen^nionionsintrndt^rs  ii|K)n  the  territories  of  onr 
solitude,  .lim  ])eercd  Ihrou^rh  the  leaves  with  the 
utmost  intensity  of  an  Indian's  vision.  It  was  the 
[dace  for  war-parlies  of  Crows,  Sioux  and  Black- 
Ic'-t  ;  and  Ibis  early  a[i|iearanee  of  individuals  ' 
a])proaebin;r  our  camp,  was  a  circumstance  that 
scented  stroti^dy  of  bows  and  arrows.  Hut  sus- 
pense became  certainty,  a  pleasant  certainty,  as  . 
.lini  reined  his  horse  from  concealment  and  <;al. 
loped  away  to  the  slranjrer,  now  within  rille  shot 
of  us. 

A  si  ron|r  and  warm  shake  of  the  band  and  vari- 
ous conlortionsof  the  face  and  uncouth  ifcslnresof 
reco;rnition  between  IIkui,  eompleti'd  their  inter- 
view, anil  the  swarthy  old  trapper  apjiroaebed  my- 
self and  na'ii.  fie  was  no  less  a  personayje  than  the 
bear  killir.  Meek,  who  li(p;nres  in  the  St.  Ijouis 
.Museum,  with  Ihepawsof  iin  innuense  ^rrislev  hear 
upon  his  shoulders  in  front,  the  liny:ersand  thumb  of 
bis  left  hand  bitten  otV,  while  with  bis  ri^dit  hand 
he  holds  the  hunti'r's  knife,  plun;;cd  deeply  in  the 
.■uiimal's  juijul.il  vein.  He  accosted  me  with 
"  (iood  niornintf,  how  are  ye  7  stran^jer  in  the 
mountains,  (h  :'"  And  before  I  eould  make  a 
inonosyllibie  reply  he  continued  "  Have  you  any 
meat  .'  ( 'nine,  I've  got  the  shoulder  oi'  a  <;oat, 
(anteloi)i'.)  let  ns  go  back  to  your  eamp  and  cook 
and  cat,  and  talk  awhile."  \Ve  were  biuiiessed 
for  the  day's  ride,  and  felt  unwilling  to  lose  the 
cool  hours  of  the  morning  ;  and  much  more  so,  to 
eonsumo  l]\r  generous  man's  last  |)omid  of  meat. 
'I'hanking  him  therefore  for  bis  honest  kindniss, 
we  Silislied  him  witii  our  refusal  by  the  assurance 
that  we  had  meat,  and  had  already"  breakfasted. — 
<>n  hearing  that  we  wer.'  traveling  to  the  Colum- 
bia river,  be  informed  us  that  we  might  probably 
go  down  with  the  Xe/ierees  Indians,  who.  be 
slated,  were  encamped  at  the  lime  on  Salmon  river, 
one  day's  journey  from  Fort  Hall.  He  was  on  his 
way  to  Rrowai's  Hole  for  his  sipiaw  and  "possi- 
bles," with  IIk'  design  of  joining  their  camp. — 
These  Indimis  would  leave  their  hunting  grounds 
for  Iheir  liomis  about   ten  days  from    that  date.— 

This  was  is  another  renm  int  of  the  American 
I'ur  Company's  trapping  parties.  Ileeame  to  the 
mountains  inanv  years  ago — and  has  so  long  asso- 
eiiited  with  Indians,  Ih.at  bis  manners  nnieh  re. 
sembb'  theirs.  The  same  wild,  unsettled,  watch- 
ful expression  of  the  eyes  ;  the  same  unnatural 
gesticulation  in  eojivirs  ition,  the  same  unwil- 
lingness to  use  words  wlion  a  sign,  a  contortion  of 
the  face  lu- body  or  movmnent  of  the  hand  will 
manifest  tbonc;;.:;  in  standipig,  walking,  riding — 
in  all  but  eo;nplexion  be  was  an  Inchan.  Uidding 
us  good  morning  and  wheeling  away  to  tiic  day'n 


ride,  ho  said,  "  Keep  your  eye   Bliining  for   the 
'  Blackfoet.     They  are  about  the  'Beer   Springs;' 
;  and  slay,   my  while  lioi.sc  tired,  one  camp  down 
the  river;  was   obliged  to  'ciirlic'   my  pack    and 
leave  him  :  use  bim  if  you  can,  and  take  him  on 
to  the  Fort;  and  look  here,  I  have  told  you  I  am 
,  .Meek,  the  bear  killer,  and  so  I  am.     Bui  I  think 
the  Iwys  at  the  museum  in   St.  Iiouis  might  have 
done  me  up   as   it  really    was.     The    beast  only 
'jumped  on  my  back  ami  stri|)ped  oil' my  blanket ; 
scratched  sijme,  hut  diiln't  pull  my  sbouldcr  blade 
1  ofl".     Well,  after  be  had  robbed  mo  of  my  blanket, 
,  I  shoved  my  rille   against   bim   and  blew  out  his 
heart.  Thai's  all — no  fingers  bitten  off,  no  knillng  ; 
I  merely  drove  a  little  lead  into  his  palpitator."— 
So  saying  he  spurred  his  weary  animal  to  a  trot, 
and  was  soon  I'.idden  among  the  uiuicrbrnsh  of  the 
intia-vales.     Aleek   was  evidently  very  poor.    He 
bad  scarcely    elotbing  enough    to  cover  his  body. 
',  .\nd  while  talking  with  us  the  frosty  winds  which 
'  sucked  up  the  vally.  madehimshiver  likean aspen 
leaf.     He  reverted  to  his  destitute  situation,   and 
.i  complained  of  the  injustice  of  his  former  employ- 
ers ;  the  little    remuneration  he  bad   received  for 
till!  toils  and  dangers  he  had  endured  on  their  ac- 
,  count,  &.C. ;  a  compliint  which  I  bad  heard  from 
every  trapper  whom  I  had  met  on  my  journey. — 
The  valley  opened  wider  as  we  pursiu'd   our  way 
along  its  northern   side;  the   soil,    the  water  and 
vegetation  much  the  same  inquantitj'  and  (piality 
.  as  those  which  we  had  passed  on  the  dTth.     The 
''  mountains  on  cillier  hand   spread  into  rocky  pre- 
eiliitous  ridges,  piled  confusedly  one  above  another 
in  dark  threatening  masses.     .Vmong  them  hung, 
in   beautiful  wildness   from   the   crevices   of  the 
cliUs,  numerous  shrub  cedars.     The  mountain  flax 
was  very  abundant,  and  ripe.     The  root  resem- 
bled that  of  perennial  plants — the  llbrea  that  of 
the  annual  hluebowl  of  the  States,  the  flower  the 
same,  the  seed   vessels   the  same  ;  but  the  seed« 
themselves  were  much  smaller,  and  of  a  very  dark 
brown  color.     This  valley  is  the  grain  fiidd  and 
'  root  garden  of  the  Shoshonie   Indians ;  for  there 
grow  in  it  a  niunber  of  kinds  of  edible  roots,  whieb 
Ibey  dig  in  August,  and  dry  for  winter  use.  There 
is  also  here  a  kind  of  grass  bearing  a  seed  of  half 
the  size  of  the  eonnnon  rye,  and  similar  in  form. 
This  they  also  gather  and  pareli  and  store  away 

I  in  leather  sacks,  for  the  season  of  want.  These 
Indians  had  been  gathering  in   Iheir  roots,  &.C.  a 

'  few  days  ])revioiis  to  our  arrival.  I  was  informed, 
however,  thai  the  crop  was  barely  snllicient  to 
subsist  them  while  harvesting  it.  But  in  order 
to  prevent  iheir  ( neniies  from  finding  whatevi  r 
might  have  escaped  their  own  search,  they  had 
burned  over  large  sections  of  the  most  productive 
part.  This  day's  ride  was  estimated  at  30  miles. 
(.)iir  camp  at  nighl  w  as  in  a  dense  copse  of  black 
alders  by  the  water.slde.  -Vte  our  last  meat 
for  supper.  No  prospect  of  getting  more  until  we 
should  arrive  at  Fort  Hall,  four  days  ride. 

20lli.  Fp  with  the  .Sim  and  on  mareh.  .\flcr 
an  hour's  ride  we  came  upon  Meek's  while  horse. 
He  came  to  ns  on  as  fast  a  gallop,  and  wilb  as 
noisy  a"  neighing,  as  if  /.immerman  had  never 
dipt  bis  (piill  in  solitude,  and   wrote  the  laws  for 

;  destroying  nature  lor  nature's  good.  .lini  now 
put  spur  to  bis  noble  animal  with  the  regularity  of 

.\  the  march  of  the   tread.nhll.      .\ud  by  w.ay   of 

II  aijology  for  Ilia  liaste  pointed  to  the  ground,  and 


70 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


laying  his  liead  on  nnf  ehoulder  and  Bnoring,  mid 
"u — gh,  ugh;"  wliich  being  intcrprete<I?  mo.int 
that  our  next  snoring  plac^  was  a  very,  very  loisg 


Ulissomi,  would  of  theniRolvfs  intprr*t  all  who aie 
witnrssing  thf  irrfoistible  movements  of  civiliza- 
tion upon  the  Amrrican  rontinent.     Put  thisfpot 


day's  journey  away.  And  our  acquainted  with  I  has  otherobjects  of  interent :  Itsticolopy  and  its 
Indian  firmness,  would  have  rr;.d  in  his  coimte.  I  Mineralogy,  and  I  might  well  say  the  Chemistry 
nance  while  making  this  eonuuunieation,  a  detci.   j  nf  it,  for thire  arc  labcriloricfl  and  gases  hero  in 


mination  to  reach  it  before  night-fall,  whatever 
might  be  the  consequences.     And  so  wc  did.    At 
Bunset  our  camp  kettle  was  bubbling  over  the  bones  ; 
of  a  pelican  at   the   "  Steamboat   spring."     The  | 
part  of  tlio  valley  seen  to-day  was  generally  covered  ■ 
with  a  stout  coat  of  bunch  grass.    This  and  other  ! 
indications  led  me  to  suppose  it  fiTtile.     And  yet  I 
it  appeared  questionable  if  it  world  yielil  the  or-  [ 
dinary  fruits  of  agriculture  without  being  irriga-  ' 
ted.     I  noticed  however  during  tlic  day's  ride  a  : 
number  of  points  at  which  the  waters  of  the  river 
might  be  conducted  over  very  large  tracts  of  ex.  ; 
cellent  soil.     The  scarcity  of  fencing  limber  ap-  ; 
|)eured  an 'obstacle,  certainly,  but  other  than  this 
tliare  seemed  to  me  no  considerable  eauso  of  doubt 
that  the  valley  of  tlic  Great  Bear  River  will,  in  the 
course  of  time,  become  one  oi  the  most  prosperous 
abodes  of  cultivated  life.     Its  situation,  so  remote 
from  either  ocean,  only  mcrcases  our  expectation 
of  such  an  event,  when  it  is  recollected  that  the 
most  practicable  wagon  route  Ix'twcen  the  .States 
and  Oregon  Territory  and  the  Californias,  runs 
through  It.  ' 

The  north  end  of  the  the  Grt.it  Salt  Lake  is  30 
miles  from  our  present  oncampment,  and  the  luouu- 
tains  on  the  Iwrdcrs  of  the  valley  are  more  abrupt 
and  craggy,  the  water  of  the  stream  more  abund- 
ant, and  the  soil  more  productive,  than  in  the  part 
already  described.  A  number  of  creeks  also  entering 
the  main  stream  from  the  a  East,  open  up  among 


the  greatest  profusion  will  hcrcaflcr  occupy  the  at- 
tention of  the  lovers  of  these  sciences.  Tlio  So- 
da Springs,  called  by  the  fur  traders  Ueer  Springs, 
are  the  most  remarkable  objects  of  the  kind  within 
my  knowledge.  They  are  situated  on  thc'north- 
w(,'flt  side  of  the  river,  a  few  rods  below  a  grove  of 
shrub  cedars,  am.  altoul  iiOO  yards  from  the  shore. 
There  are  six  j^roups  of  them;  or  in  other  wordn, 
there  are  si-x  small  hollows  sunken  almut  2  feet  be. 
low  the  ground  around,  of  circidar  form  7  or  8 
feet  in  diameter,  in  which  there  .area  number  of 
foun'aina  sending  up  large  quantities  of  gas  and 
water,  and  emitting  a  noise  resembling  the  Iwiling 
of  ij.uneuse  cauldrons.  Tlu^se  (kjoIs  arc  usually 
clear,  with  a  gravelly  bottom.  In  some  of  them 
however,  grow  Iwgsor  hassocks  of  coarse  grass, 
amor  g  which  areiuany  little  wells,  where  the  wa- 
ter bubbled  so  merrily  that  I  was  teniptcdlto  drink 
at  one  of  them.  But  as  I  ])roc(feded  to  do  so,  tlu^ 
ButVociiing  properties  of  the  gas  instantly  drove 
me  from  my  purj^ise.  After  this  rebuffhowever,  1 
nuule  .mother  attempt  at  a  more  (.pen  fountain,  and 
('••anic  with  little  ditViculty.  The  waters  appeared 
to  bo  more  highly  impregnated  with  soda  and  acid 
than  those  of  .Surotoga ;  were  extremely  pleasant 
to  the  taste,  and  fumed  from  thestomaeh  like  the 
soda  water  of  tlie  shops.  Someof  them  threw  oft' at 
least  1  gallons  of  gas  a  second.  And  although  they 
cast  \\\i  large  masses  of  water  continually,  for  which 
there  appeared  no  outlet,  yet  at  diflcrcnt  times  of 


tlie  black  hights  a  numlx-r  of  lesser  and  channing  !  observation  I  could  perceive  no  iiu-reaseor  dinumi- 


vales;  and  around  the  union  of  the  river  with  tho 
Lake  there  arc  excellent  water,  soil  and  limber,  un- 
der skies  of  perpetual  spring.  (.)f  the  Lake  itself 
I  heard  much  from  diflcrcnt  individuals  who  had 
visited  diflcrcnt  portions  of  its  coast.  The  sub. 
stance  of  their  stat«ments,  in  which  they  all  agree, 
is  that  itis  about  200  miles  long,  81)  or  100  wide  ; 
the  water  exceedingly  heavy  ;  and  so  salt,  say  they 
in  their  simple  way,  that  pieces  of  wood  dipped  in 
it  and  dried  in  the  huu  are  thickly  frosted  with  pure 
white  salt;  that  its  coasts  are  generally  com|)osed 
of  swells  of  s.and  and  barren  brown  loam,  on  whic'li 
sufllcient  moisture  does  not  fall  to  susi  ain  any  other 
vegetation  than  tho  wild  wormwood  and  jirickly 
pear ;  that  all  attempts  to  go  around  it  in  canoes 
have,  after  a  day  or  two  of  trial,  been  abandoned 
for  tho  want  of  fresh  water;  that  the  (ireat  Bear 
River  is  the  (july  considerable  slreani  putting  into 
it ;  that  high  land  is  seen  near  the  centre  of  it ; — 
but  whether  this  be  an  island  or  a  long  peninsula 
there  was  a  difl'erence  of  opinion  among  my  infor- 
mants. The  valleys  of  the  (Jreat  Bear  River  and 
its  Iributariee,  as  well  as  the  northern  portion  of  the 
Lake,  arc  Bup[)oscd  to  be  within  the  territory  of  the 
States. 

The  immediate  neighborhood  of  our  encamp- 
ment is  one  of  the  UKist  remarkable  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  The  facts  that  the  trail  to  Oregon  and 
("California  will  forever  of  necessity,  pass  within 
300  yards  of  the  place  where  our  camp  fire  is 
hurmng  ;  that  near  this  spot  nmst  be  ercctcrl  a  rest- 
ing  place  for  the  long  lines  of  caravans  between 
thoWborsof  the  Pacific  aud  tha  waters  of  the 


lion  of  the  quantity  visil)le.     Thereare  fivcor  nix 
other  springs  in  the  bank  of  the  river  just  below, 
I  wliosi'  waters  resemble  those  I  have  described.  One 
'  of  them  discharges  alx>ut  111  gallons  a  minute. 
I      One  fourth  of  a  mile  down  stream  from  the  So- 
I  da  Spring,  is  what    is    called    "  The  Steamboat 
1  spring."'     The  orifice  from  which   it  casts  its  wa- 
]  ler  is  in  the  face  of  a  perpendicular   rock  on  the 
i  brink  of  the  stream,  which  seems   to  have  l)een 
tri-uod  by  the  depositions  of  the  fountain.     It  is 
8  mches  in  diameter.     .Six  feet  from  this,  and  on 
the  horieuntal  plane  of  tho  rock,  is  another  orifice 
in  the  cavern  below     Onajiproaching  the  spring, 
a  deej)    gurgling,  hissing  sound  is  heard  under- 
I  ground.     It  apiKam  to  he  |)roduced  by  the  gener- 
1  at  ing  of  gas  in  a  cavernous  receiver.     This,  when 
'  the  chamlier  is  filled,  bursts  through  another  cav- 
j  ern  filled  with  water,  which  it  thrusts  frcithing  and 
j  foaming  into  the  stream.     In  passing  the  suiallcr 
I  orifice,  the  pent  gas  escapes  with  very  much  Ibr- 
i  sanu'  sound  as  steam  makes  in  the   escape-pipe  of 
I  a  steamboat.     Hence  the   name.     The  periods  of 
I  discharge  an-  very  irregular.     At  times,  they  oc- 
'  cur  once  in  two.  at  others,  once  in  three,  four  or 
five  minutes.     The  force  of  its  action  also,  is  sub- 
ject to  great  variation.     Those  who   have  visited 
jj  it  often,  say  that  its  noise  has  been  heard  to  echo 
far  among  the  hills.     When  I  visited  it  I  could 
not  hear  it  at  the  dislaiice  of  200    yards.     Then' 
is  also  said  to  be  a  difl'erence  at  diflcrcnt  times  in 
the  truiperature  of  the   water.     When  I  examm- 
ed  it,  it  was  a  little  al)ove  blood  heat.  Others  have 
Been  it  nuicii  higher. 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregm  Territory,  etc. 


71 


The  most  rsmarkablo  phenomenon  connected 
with  those  nprings,  remains  vet  to  bo  noticed. — 
Tlic  whole  river,  from  the  ifitoambont  spring  to 
the  Soda  npringB,  a  distance  of  more  than  a  fourth 
of  a  mile,  is  a  sheet  of  Hprings,  thousiinds  in 
number,  which  burst  ing  throujrh  two  foot  of  su- 
perincumbent running  water,  throw  thoir  foaming 
jets,  some  six  inclies,  and  whuoIoks,  above  the  sur- 
face. The  water  is  mueli  the  same  in  its  con- 
Htitucnt  qualities,  as  that  of  the  Soda  Hpritigs. 

There  arc  in  the  iimuediato  vicinity  of  the 
Steamboat  spring,  and  on  t)ie  opposite  side  of  the 
river  nunierouH  rockH  with  orifices  in  their  centres, 
and  other  evidences  of  having  been  formed  by  in- 
tennittant  springs  that  jiavc  long  ago  ceased  to 
act. 

The  scenery  around  these  wonderful  fountains, 
is  very  wild.  To  the  east  northeast,  opens  uji  the 
upper  valley  of  Cirerit  Bear  River,  walled  in  on 
either  side  by  dark  primitive  mountains,  beetling 
over  the  vale,  and  towering  on  the  sky.  To  the 
south  southwoet  sweeps  away  the  lower  valley. — 
On  either  side  of  it,  rise  lofty  niountainsof  naked 
rocks,  whose  wild  sublimity  contrasts  strikingly 
with  the  sweet  beauty  of  the  stream  and  vale 
below. 

And  although  statemcnt.'i  in  regard  to  what 
shall  transpire  in  the  future,  arc  always  a  work 
more  befittmg  a  seer  than  a  joumabst,  yet  1  can. 
not  forbear  expressing  the  belief  that  the  hcalthi. 
ness  and  beauty  of  tlicir  locality — the  magnifi- 
cence of  the  scenery  on  the  best  routes  to  them 
from  the  States  ami  from  the  Pacific,  the  mani- 
fest suporioritv  of  these  waters  over  any  others, 
will  cause  •'  The  Soda  Springs"  to  he  thronged 
with  the  gay  and  fashionable  of  Imth  sides  of  the 
continent. 

30th.  Our  sleep  had  been  interrupted  at  mid- 
night  by  the  blazing  fires  of  an  Indian  encamp- 
ment on  a  neighboring  hill.  Andonce  awakened 
by  such  a  cause,  the  tracks  of  a  war  party,  prob- 
al)ly  of  Blackfeet,  which  we  had  crossed  during 
the  day,  were  sufficient  to  put  us  on  duty  the  re. 
mainder  of  the  night-  At  early  dawn,  we  sad. 
died  and  moved  in  silence  a  few  Inmdrcd  yards 
down  the  river  turned  to  the  right  around  the 
Bute  in  the  roar  of  the  Steamboat  spring,  entered 
the  "  Valley  of  chasms,"  and  soon  brought  the 
moiuitaiuH  on  its  northern  border  between  us  and 
our  suspicious  nrighlx)r8. 

This  valley  derives  its  name  from  the  numerous 
cracks  or  chasms  in  the  vulcanic  rocks  on  which 
it  refits.  They  arc  so  wide  and  deep  that  the  na- 
tives, for  many  miles  at  the  lower  part  of  it,  have 
been  obliged  to  run  their  trail  over  the  lower 
swells  of  the  hills  on  its  norlhwoRteni  side.  I'p 
tills  trail  Jim  rode  on  a  brisk  trot,  beckoning  us 
in  an  ominous  manner  tn  follow,  mid  keep  in  a 
body  near  him.  The  "  cut  rook"  and  scoriir  lay 
evsry  where,  and  crippled  the  [loor  anitiiala  at  al- 
most every  step.  Onward  he  led  us,  with  all  the 
speed  which  the  severest  inllietions  of  spur  and 
whip  could  produce,  till  the  shutting  in  of  night 
depoiifcd  us  among  the  willows  on  the  stream  of 
the  valley  40  miles  from  our  last  night's  encamp- 
ment. The  rapidity  of  our  traveling  to-day,  al- 
lowed me  little  time  to  examine  this  singular  val. 
ley.  I  noticed  merely  that  it  was,  like  the  inter. 
vales  of  Bear  liivcr,  covered  with  bunch  grass 
which  the  thirsty  «uns  of  eummcr  had  dried  to  i 


hay.  A  curious  gas  spring  also  attracted  my  at- 
tention  al)out  !)  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Its  bub- 
bling and  its  beautiful  reservoir  appeared  to  arouse 
the  admiration  even  of  my  dogged  guide  Jim : 
he  halted  to  look  at  it.  V'rs,  It  was  even  so. — 
Jim,  for  the  first  time  since  I  had  had  the  honor 
of  his  acquaintance,  absolutely  slojiped  to  look  at 
and  admire  a  portion  of  the  earth.  It  was  u  fine 
specimen  of  Nature's  masonry.  Tin;  basin  was 
alx)ut  six  feet  in  diameter;  the  bottom  a  circular 
horizontal  plane ;  around  the  edge  rose  a  rim  or 
flanclie,  eight  inches  in  hight ;  all  one  solid  rock. 
In  the  centre  of  the  liottom,  arose  the  gas  and 
water:  the  latter  was  six  inches  deep,  limpid,  and 
slightly  acid.  This  fountain  was  situated  a  few 
rods  to  the  right  of  the  trail. 

31st.  We  took  to  our  saddles,  and  in  throe 
hours  reached  the  fool  of  the  mountains  which 
divid«  the  "  Valley  of  chasms"  troin  Snake 
River.  There  is  a  wide  depression  through  the 
hights  hereof  so  gentle  a  declination,  tJiat  loaded 
wagons  can  pass  from  one  valley  to  the  other 
without  difficulty.  I'p  this  we  turned.  It  was 
covered  with  green  grass  and  shrubs  and  trees ; 
among  wliieh  a  little  brook  was  whispering  to  the 
solitude.  The  small  birds,  too,  were  chirping 
among  the  bright  flowers  and  bending  Ixjuglis; 
and  on  either  hand,  as  if  to  guard  so  much  lovo- 
linoes  from  the  winds  of  surrounding  desolation, 
the  black  crags  rose  and  frowned  1,500  feet  in 
air.  But  himgcrl  !  Every  bud  was  fed  ;  every 
bird  had  its  nourishment ;  the  lizards  oven  weru 
not  starving.  AVo  wore.  AVhen  alxmt  half  way 
up  the  gorge,  one  of  Smith's  horses  tired  and  re- 
fused to  go  farther.  The  lellow's  wound,  received 
in  the  plains,  had  healed;  and  with  strength  from 
time  to  time,  his  petty  tyranny  towards  his  animals 
increased  till  being  entirely  recovered,  hesoomedto 
h^ve  resumed  a  degree  of  malignity  toward  them 
whenever  they  did  not  obance  to  comprehend  his 
wishes  or  were  unable  to  comply  witli  them,  that 
would  be  incredible  if  described.  In  this  case, 
he  cut  a  strong  gad  ;  and  following  the  slow  steps 
of  the  worn-out  animal,  struck  her  lengthwise 
over  the  almost  denuded  ribs  as  frequently  and  a? 
long  as  he  had  strength  to  do  it ;  and  then  would 
rest  and  strike  again  with  renewed  vengeance, 
until  his  boast  dropped  her  heed  and  received  his 
blows  without  a  movement.  Remonstrance,  and 
the  astouishod  gazing  of  my  savage  guide,  only 
increased  his  severity.  And  thus  he  continued  to 
beat  the  poor  animal,  till,  being  convinced  against 
bis  will,  that  he  even  coiild  not  make  a  dying 
horse  heed  his  command,  he  bestowed  upon  her  a 
farewell  kick  and  curse  and  left  her. 

.\l)Out  four  o'clock  wc  stoorl  on  the  high  ground 
which  divides  the  waters  of  the  little  biiKik  which 
wc  had  followed  up,  from  a  small  head  stroaiii 
of  I'orlnouf.  'J'lie  valiuy  of  the  groat  southern 
branch  of  tlie  Coluinl)ia,  was  spread  out  before  us. 
•Slaking  our  thirst  at  a  cool  spring,  we  traveled 
five  miles  down  the  mountain,  and  encamped  in 
sight  of  tlie  Trois  Hutos.  When  we  halted,  I 
was  too  much  exhausted  with  hunger  and  fatigue 
to  unsaddle  my  horse.  We  bad  been  on  short 
allowance  most  of  the  time  since  leaving  Fort 
David  Crocket.  The  day  on  which  we  arrived 
at  the  Soda  .Springs,  I  ate  the  eighth  |)art  of  a 
pelican  ;  the  two  last  jiast  days,  nothing.  But  1 
sutlergd  le«i»  iivm  tltc  gimwings  ul  hunger  than  I 


72 


Travels  in  the  Great  Weslern  Prairies, 


had  on  the  previous  iiiRht.  A  deadly  stuiwr  per- 
viidcd  the  gastrin  and  nin-ous  systeniH ;  a  slug- 
gish iielion  of  till;  heart,  a  dimness  ol'  vision  and 
l)ainful  prostration  of  every  energy  of  lifi:  were 
creeping  upon  me.  Alter  a  little  rest,  however,  I 
crept  to  the  bushes,  and  altera  long  search,  found 
two  red  rose-buds  !  These  I  gladly  ate,  and  wrnt 
to  my  conch  to  dream  of  feasts. 

The  Isl  of  September  wan  a  tine  day.  The 
tiun  was  bright  and  unclouded,  as  he  came  in  his 
strength  over  the  eastern  mountains,  and  awak- 
ened us  from  our  shnnbers  among  the  alders  on 
the  bank  of  Portneuf.  [lunger,  indeed,  was  still 
gnawing  at  our  vitals,  lint  sleep  had  banished 
weariness,  and  added  something  to  the  small  stock 
of  on-  remaining  strength  ;  iuid  the  recollection 
of  past  perils — peril. i  of  Hoods,  of  tempests,  of  In- 
dian foes — deatli  threatened  at  every  step  during 
a  joumey  of  three  months  in  the  plains  and 
mountains — the  inspiring  view  of  the  vale  of  the 
great  southern  branch  of  the  Columbia,  so  long 
;)romised  us  in  hope  along  our  wcarv  way — the 
fact  that  we  were  in  Oregon,  unmoored  the  mind 
from  its  an-victies,  and  shed  over  us  a  gladness 
that  can  only  be  compreheuded  by  those  who, 
having  sulTered  as  we  bad,  have  viewed  as  wo 
did,  from  some  bright  bight,  their  sulTerings  ended, 
in  the  rich,  ripe  possession  of  the  objects  so  ar- 
dently sought.  We  were  in  Oregon.  Fort  Hall 
lay  in  the  plain  before  us.  Its  hosi)italities  would 
be  enjoyed  ere  sunset.  Our  wardrobes  were  over- 
hauled, onr  razors  jint  on  duty,  our  sun-burnt 
frames  bathed  in  the  Portneuf;  and  equipped  in 
our  best,  our  hearts  beat  joyfully  back  the  r.qnti 
clattering  of  our  horses'  hoofs  on  the  pavements 
of  the  inoimtains,  as  we  rushed  to  the  jdains.  An 
hour  among  the  sands  and  wild  wormwood — an 
hour  among  the  oozing  si)rings,  and  green  grass 
around  them — an  hour  along  the  banks  of  iSap- 
tin  River — and  we  jiassed  a  line  of  timber  spring- 
ing at  right  angles  into  the  plain :  and  belbrc  us 
rose  the  white  battlements  of  Fort  Hall  !  Aa 
we  emerged  from  this  wood,  Jim  intimated  that 
W'C  should  discharge  our  rifles  ;  and  as  we  did  so, 
a  single  armed  horseman  issued  from  the  gate  of 
the  Fort,  approached  us  warilv,  and  skulking 
among  the  copses,  scanned  us  in  the  most  inquisi- 
tive manner.  Having  satisfied  himself  at  last 
that  our  skins  were  originally  intended  to  be 
white,  he  came  alongside  ;  and  learning  that  we 
were  from  the  States  ;  tliat  we  bad  no  hostile  in- 
tentions  :  that  we  knew  Mr.  Walker  to  be  in  the 
Fort,  and  would  be  glad  to  have  our  compliments 
conveyed  to  him,  he  returned  ;  and  IVIr.  Walker 
immediately  appeared.  A  friendly  salutation  was 
followed  by  an  invitation  to  enter  the  Fort;  and 
a  "  welcome  to  Fort  Hall,"  was  given  in  a  man- 
ner so  khid  and  obliging,  that  iiothiiig  seemed 
wanting  to  make  ns  feel  that  we  were  at  home.  A 
generous  flagon  of  Old  Jamaica,  wheaten  bread, 
and  butter  newly  ehurned,  and  bull'alo  tongues 
fresh  from  the  neighboring  mountains,  made  their 
appearance  as  soon  as  wc  had  rid  ourselves  of  the 
e(|uipage  and  dust  of  jomncying,  and  allayed  the 
dreadful  sense  of  starvation. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

TliH  Rocl»y  Mountains  and  llit-ir  .Spurs— (Seograpliy  of  ilie 
Miiuntiilii  Ucifion  — Wyelli— PippaiaiKiHS  Mailc  —  Tlir 
(tuUci— Tlif  Bi-nvrrCaiclii-rs  Briili  — Trni«  B  Ics— Adrli. 
linn  liom  a  Minaalery— Orihouf— A  Mfrry  Mnuntam 
Trapprr— Kiwt  Dignf tk— EcKinuons  Sprinj;*— Volcanic 
HpariliM  and  <;im»in-.— Carho— An  olil  Clilei— A  BinfT— 
Boi~ai»  Uivcr— Incidrnt  of  Trade— The  Bonalis— Tlir 
Dpail  Wai!— Furl  Boisais,  lis  f^almon,  Bultcrand  Urarly 
Cliepr— Mnn«  Paydlf— Curinsliy—  Depariurc— I'a-slnij 
Ihi-  BluH  Mnaalains— Tlie  Uranilenr  of  Tlicni— Tliclr 
ForPMs,  Fiiiwprs  and  Torrenu— Decent  ot  tlje  Mountains 
—Plain,  n  (Uirisllan  Cranr— Aniv.il  at  Dr.  Wlilirnan'4 
Mi!.iii  m—  Wailawalla  —  Pcoplr—  Firm—  Mill—  Lriirnini; 
TIioukIii— UrIiKion— Mr.  KrniiiinKir— Blair— Nez  Prrces 
— K:icine;— lijilian  Ilorie  Training— !<al>batli  and  itujnys 
in  llie  Wilderness. 

It  will  not  be  uninteresting  while  pausing  here, 
and  making  jireparations  to  descend  Snake,  Lew- 
is,  or  Sa()tin  river,  to  lead  my  readers  back  over 
that  portion  cif  my  journey  wdiich  lay  among  the 
mountains.  I  do  not  design  to  retrace  my  steps 
here,  however,  in  order  again  to  attempt  a  des- 
cription of  siifl'erings  which  can  never  be  dea- 
eribed.  They  arc  pasi  ;  and  let  their  remem- 
brance die.  But  a  sneeint  account  of  the  region 
lying  west  of  the  -Vnaliuac  ridge,  and  between 
latitudes  3!)  and  -12  degrees  north — its  mountains, 
its|)lalns,  its  rivers,  See,  will,  I  persuade  myself, 
be  new,  and  not  without  interest  to  the  reader. 

James's  Peak,  Pike's  Peak,  and  Ixmg's  Peak, 
may  be  called  the  outposts  of  a  lofty  range  of 
rocky  mountains,  which,  for  convenience  in  des. 
cription,  I  have  called  Long's  Range,  c.xteniling 
nearly  due  north  from  the  Arkansas,  in  latitude 
30  degrees,  to  the  Great  (iap  in  latitude  42  de- 
grees  north. 

This  range  is  uncomieeted  with  any  other. — 
It  is  separated  from  the  Wind  River  Alountains 
by  the  (jreat  Gap  or  Great  Southern  Pass,  and 
from  the  (Jreat  Anahuae  Range  by  the  U])|)er  val- 
leys  of  llie  Arkansas,  those  of  the  South  Fork  of 
the  Platte,  and  those  of  Green  and  Grand  Rivers. 
Two  spurs  spring  oft'  from  it  to  the  west :  the  one 
from  James's  Peak,  the  other  from  Long's  Peak. 
.  These  spurs,  as  they  proceeil  westward,  dip  low- 
I  er  and  lower  till  they  terminate — the  hist  in  the 
rough  cliH's  around  the  upper  waters  of  the  Ar- 
kansas, and  the  latter  in  spherical  sand-hills  around 
the  lower  waters  of  Grand  River.  The  Anahu- 
ae Mountains  were  seen  from  about  latitude  39 
degrees  to  42  degrees  north.  This  range  lies 
about  200  miles  west  of  Long's  Range,  and  be 
tween  latitude  30  and  40  degrees,  has  a 
general  course  of  north  northwest.  It  appeared 
an  unbroken  ridge  of  ice  and  snow,  rising  in  some 
points,  I  think,  more  than  10,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  From  latitude  41  degrees  it 
tends  to  the  northwest  by  west,  past  the  north- 
eastern  shore  of  the  Great  Salt  I,ak<'  to  the  north- 
ern I'ud  of  it  ;  and  thence  westwardly  to  a 
point  south  of  Portneuf,  where  it  unites  with  the 
range  of  the  Snowy  Mountains. 

The  Snowy  Mountains  are  a  transverse  range 
or  spur  of  the  llocky  Mountains,  whieh  rim  from 
the  Wind  River  Mountains  latitude  42  degrees 
i  north,  in  nearly  a  right  line  to  Cape  Mendocino, 
I  latitude  40  degrees,  in  Upper  California.  Many 
I  portions  of  this  range,  east  as  well  as  west  of  Fort 
I  Hall,  arc  very  lofty,  and  covered  with  perpetual 
1  snow.  About  100  miles  from  the  coast  of  the 
j  Pacific  it  intersects  that  range  of  snowy  peaks 
I  called  the  President's  Range,  vvliich  comes  down 


in  the  Rocky  Mounlaint,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc. 


73 


Irom  ruRPt'd  sonn'l,  nnd  trrniinaIcK  in  (lie  arid ' 
pliiind  nbout  tlio  moiilli  of  tlio  ( ^olor.vdo  of  thi^ 
WfhI. 

The  Wind  Rivor  MountninH  iirr  n  spur  which 
Bhools  from  tho  ({real  iiorllKTu  I'hairi,  roniinonly 
called  the  RiM'l\y  i\Ioiinlain!<,  in  laliliidc  lU  do- 
l^reeH  and  odd  niiniilcH  north;  and  rinniiu!;  in  a 
wnilheaHterly  threction  inlo  the  (iroal  Prairie  Wil. 
dcrnoHs,  forniH  the  nnrllicrn  wall  of  lUi:  (Jrcat  (iop 
or  (iroat  Soiilliern  Pans. 

On  tlic  norlliern  Hide  id'  the  Win<l  River  Peaks, 
lire  the  BonrcPH  of  .lefleraon,  Madison,  and  (ialla- 
tin  Rivers'  on  the  Honlhcaslern  nide  riwH  the 
Sweetwater,  the  nortliweatennnoHl  branch  of  the 
North  Fork  of  tlie'ireat  Platte  ;  on  the  southern 
Hide  the  Slicctskade<',  or  (Jrecn  River,  tlic  north, 
em  hruneh  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West ;  on  the 
northwcalerii  side  and  north  of  the  Snowy  Moun- 
tainn,  aprinj;  the  Saptin,  Snake,  or  LewiH  River, 
the  (jrcat  southern  hraneh  of  the  Columbia. 

On  the  western  side  of  Long's  Ranfrc,  rises  the 
Grand  River,  the  prineijial  branch  of  the  Colora. 
do  of  the  West.  It  furniphes  lour  times  tlic  quan- 
tity of  water  that  Green  River  does.  Further 
south,  in  the  vicinity  of  James's  Peak,  and  on 
the  west  side  of  this  range,  rises  the  South  Fork 
of  the  Great  Platte. 

Close  under  tlic  eastern  bi\se  of  the  Anahnac ' 
or  Great  iMain  Range,  and  ncjirly  in  latitude  39i  i 
degrees  nortli,  arc  the  sources  of  tlic  Arkansas.        | 

The  immense  parallelogram  lying  within  these ; 
ranges  of  mountains,  may  be  dcscribeil  by  saj'ing! 
that  it  is  a  desert  of  arid  plains  and  minor  moun- 1 
tains.  And  if  this  general  appellation  be  cpiali- 1 
fied  by  the  accounts  given  (m  previous  pages  of: 
Uoyou  Salado — Old  Park,  &c.,  very  small  por- 
lions  of  the  whole  area — the  dcscrii)tion  will  bo 
complete. 

Fort  Hidl  was  built  by  Captain  Wyetli,  of  Hob. 
ton,  in  1H32,  for  the  purposes  of  trade  with  the 
Indians  in  its  vicinity.  lie  had  taken  goods  into 
the  lower  part  of  the  Territory,  to  exchange  for 
salmon.  Hut  competition  soon  drove  him  from 
his  fiBheries  to  this  remote  siKit,  where  he  hoped 
to  be  perinitted  to  purchase  furs  of  the  ludiana 
witlioiit  being  molested  by  tlie  Hudson  Ray  Com- 
pany, wliosc  nearest  post  was  seven  hundred 
miles  away. 

In  this  lie  was  disapixiinted.  In  pursuance 
of  the  avowed  doctrine  of  thai  comjiiuiy,  that  no 
others  have  a  right  to  trade  in  I'urs  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  while  the  use  of  capital  and 
their  incomparable  skill  and  perseverance  can  i)re- 
vent  it,  they  established  a  fort  near  him,  preceded 
him,  followed  him,  surrounded  him  every  where, 
and  cut  the  throat  of  his  pros|)crily  with  such 
kindness  and  [lolileiiess,  tliat  VVyelh  was  induced 
to  sell  his  wlioh:  interest,  existent  .and  prospeciive, 
in  Oregon,  to  his  generous  but  too  indefatigable, 
bkilful,  and  powerful  antagonists. 

From  what  1  saw  and  lieard  of  Wyeth's  man- 
agement in  Oregon,  I  was  impressed  with  the 
belief  that  he  was,  beyond  eoniparisoii,  the  most 
talented  business-man  from  tlu!  States  that  ever 
established  himself  in  llie  Territory. 

The  busine.''»  of  this  post  consists  in  exchang- 
ing blankets,  ammunition,  guns,  tobacco,  &c., 
with  the  neighlioriiig  Indians,  for  the  skins  of 
the  licaver  and  land  otter ;  and  in  furnisliijn; 
wiiilc  men  with  traps,  liorgcs,  Buddies,  bridles, 
n 


provisions,  &.c.,  to  enable  them  to  hunt  these  ani. 
inals  for  the  Iwnefit  and  sole  use  <d  the  owners — 
the  Hudson  Itay  Company.  In  such  cases,  th« 
horses  arc  loaned  witiiout  price  ;  the  otiier  arti- 
cles of  the  "oiillit"  sold  on  credit  till  the  termina- 
tion cd'  the  liiinl.  And  the  only  seeurity  which 
the  company  requires  (or  the  return  of  their  ani- 
mals, is  l\u:  pledge  of  honor  to  that  cH'ect,  and 
that  the  furs  taken  shall  be  appropriati'd  at  a  stip- 
ulated price  to  the  payment  of  arrearages. 

Goods  are  sold  at  this  establishment  .'iO  per 
cent,  lower  than  at  (lie  American  posts.  NVhilo 
trap|M'rs  arc  paid  a  higher  jiriee  for  their  furs  than 
is  paid  the  Iiiilians  ;  are  charged  less  for  the  goods 
which  lliey  receive  in  exchangi' ;  and  arc  treated 
in  every  respect  by  this  shrewd  company  witli 
such  uniform  justice,  that  the  American  trappers 
even  are  fast  leaving  the  service  of  their  country- 
men, for  the  larger  profits  and  better  treatment  of 
British  ciiii>lijyinent.  There  is  also  a  company  of 
men  connected  with  this  Fort,  under  the  com- 
mand of  an  American  mountaineer,  who,  follow- 
ing various  tribes  in  their  migratory  cxpeihtions 
in  the  adjacent  American  and  Mexican  domain, 
collect  whatever  furs  may  chance  to  be  among 
them. 

Ity  these  means,  and  various  others  subsidiary 
to  them,  the  gentlemen  in  charge  of  this  trading 
establishment,  collected,  in  the  summer  of  183t>, 
more  tiian  thirty  packs  of  the  best  beaver  of  the 
mountains. 

We  spent  the  2d  and  .3d  most  agreeably  with 
Mr.  Walker,  in  his  hospitable  adobie  castle — ex- 
changed with  him  our  wearied  horses  for  fresh 
ones  ;  and  obtained  dried  butKalo  meat,  sugar,  co- 
coa, tea,  and  corn  meal,  a  guide,  and  every  other 
necessary  within  that  gentleman's  power  to  fur- 
nish for  our  journey  to  Wallawalla.  And  at  10 
o'clock,  A.  ^I.,  of  the  Itli  of  September,  wc  bade 
adieu  to  our  very  obliging  countryman,  and  took 
to  our  saddles  un  the  trail  down  the  desert  banks 
of  the  Saptin.  As  we  left  the  Fort,  we  passed 
over  the  ground  of  an  allray,  which  originated  in 
love  anil  terminated  in  death,  ^es,  love  on  the. 
western  di  cdivity  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  I  and 
love  of  a  white  man  for  a  murky  Indian  dainc  ! 
It  appeari^d,  trom  the  relation  1  had  of  it,  that  a. 
certain  white  trapjur  had  taken  to  himself  a  cer- 
tain bronze  damsel  of  the  wilderness  to  be  liis 
slave-wilV,  with  all  tlic^  solemn  ceremonies  of  pur- 
chase and  payment  for  the  same  in  sundry  horses, 
dogs,  aiiil  loads  of  aminuiiilion,  as  required  by 
the  custom  in  such  alVaiis  governing;  and  that 
by  his  business  of  trajiping  for  beaver,  ite.,  ho 
was,  soon  after  the  b.iniiK  were  proclaimed,  sepa. 
rated  fro  ii  his  belovi'd  one,  for  the  term  of  three 
months  and  upwards,  much  ag.imst  his  tender  in- 
eliiiatiiiii  and  interest,  as  the  lollowing  showeth  : 
For  during  the  term  of  his  said  ab.scncc,  another 
white  man,  with  intent  to  iiijure,  iVc,  spoke  cer- 
tain leiulcr  words  unto  the  said  trapjicr's  slave- 
wife,  whiih  had  the  elleet  to  alienate  from  him 
the  piiridiased  ;iiid  riglilfully  possessed  atrecUions 
of  his  slave-spouse,  in  t'avor  of  lier  seducer.  In 
this  said  condition  did  the  beaver-catcher  find  his 
bride  when  he  came  in  from  the  hunt.  He  loaded 
his  rifle,  and  killed  the  robber  of  his  heart.  Thr 
grave  of  the  victim  is  there,  a  warning  to  all  who 
would  trillr  with  the  vested  rights  of  an  Ainericau 
trapper  in  the  love  of  an  Indian  beauty. 


n 


Travels  in  the  Oreat  Wcslern  Prairies, 


W«  made  rV)ut  Ion  milcii,  and  Imltcd  for  the 
night.  Our  guido  disolaycd  himsrif  ii  fivo  fent 
nine  inch  ^Inut  Walluwnllii.  JIc  had  hrcn  in  the 
ecrvico  of  the  IIikIboh  Uuy  Company  many  years, 
and  win,  conneqiiently,  nHHiduoiw  nnd  dutiful. — 
Yen.  consequrnlly  bo.  For  nritlier  liidiiui  nor 
white  man  is  long  in  their  tcrviep  without  Iciirn. 
ing  hiB  phicc,  luul  heconiuig  active  nnd  fuithlulin 
doing  liiH  (hit)'.  Ab  Boon  us  wo  entered  camp, 
our  pack-horscs  were  Btripjied  of  their  Imrdcns, 
mid  turned  loose  to  teed;  wood  was  gathered, and 
«  fire  blazing  lUiiler  the  kettles,  and  "  all  out 
door»"  uumedialuly rendered  hh  comfortable  tons, 
ai  skies  ipatigled  with  stars,  and  earth  strewn 
with  snowy  sand  could  he  made.  WalUiwalla 
was  a  jolly  oddity  of  a  mortal.  'J'lio  frontal  re. 
jfion  of  his  head  had  been  pressed  in  infancy  most 
mrigtneralically  into  tho  form  of  tho  (ierinan  idi. 
ots  ;  hia  »y*B  w*r*  forctd  out  upon  the  corners  of 
lh»  htad;  nii  nose  bugged  the  liico  closely  like  a 
Ijuiich  of  atreciioiiato  leeches  ;  hai."  black  as  a  ra. 
vcn,  and  fl(/ ■  •  over  ii  pair  of  herculean  slioid- 
ders;  and  fc  but  who  can  describe  that  which 
has  not  its  like  under  the  skies.  .Such  was  ( 'ar- 
l)o,  our  I'tdiiiuriu  over  tlie  burnt  plains  of  Snake 
River. 

The  abort  rido  of  tho  day,  had  shown  us  tho 
■western  limit  of  tho  |)artial  fertility  alK)Ut  I'Virt 
Hall.  The  earth  iiad  begiui  to  be  nd,  burnt,  and 
barren;  grass  sparse  and  dry  ;  the  shrubs  and  cot- 
ton woods  stinted  and  shrivelled. 

The  ])laiii  of  the  'I'rois  Uutes  is  situated  between 
the  Snowy  niomitain  range  on  the  soulh,  and  an. 
other  ridge  which,  diverging  from  it  al)ovu  the 
«ourccB  of  8aptin  llivcr,  follows  that  stream  down 
to  tho  Uluo  Mountains  near  Wallawalla.  'Ibis 
plain,  by  experiment,  is  found  to  be  8,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  In  the  vicinity  of 
the  post,  there  is  an  abundance  of  gra.^s  for  tho 
eubsistiiicc  of  many  thousands  of  animals.  The 
soil  in  various  parts  of  it,  idso,  appears  well 
adapted  to  tho  eultivatioTi  "i  the  small  grains  and 
esculent  roots.  Hut  the  tact  that  frosts  occur  a|. 
most  every  month  of  the  year,  shows  the  extent 
to  which  the  arable  sections  can  be  ren<lcred 
available  for  such  purjwscs. 

The  Trois  Butcs  riso  on  tlie  plain  1.')  or  20 
miles  cast  of  tho  Fort.  They  are  pyramidal 
peaks,  probably  of  volcanic  origin,  of  i.',IIOO  feet 
in  bight  alwve  tlic  plain — and  l'j,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Around  their  dark  bases 
grow  evergreen  trees;  from  their  sides  burst  small 
brooks,  rendering  verdant  strips  of  the  jdain  which 
radiate  beautifully  in  all  directions  from  them ; 
and  over  all,  during  most  of  the  year,  bang  their 
crests  of  glittering  snows  I  East  of  the  Butes 
vegetation  continually  decreases  till  it  ceases  in 
tbc  black  crags  which  embosom  the  head  streams 
of  the  river. 

On  the  0th  traveled  30  miles  down  the  western 
bank  of  the  river ;  soil  sandy  and  volcanic,  l)ear 
ing  wdd  wormwood — in  fact  a  desert ;  crossed  a 
number  of  small  streams  putting  into  the  Sajitin; 
on  these  a  little  bimcb  of  grass  and  a  few  alders 
and  willows  tried  to  grow,  ^\'hile  biuting  sit 
noon,  we  were  agreeably  Burj)rised  with  un  addi. 
tion  to  our  company,  of  n  young  .Swiss  trajiper, 
eight  years  in  the  mountains ;  he  Iciuned  the  silver 
smith  business  when  in  youth  ;  afterward  entered 
a  monastery  and  studied  Latin  &.c.  for  the  order 


of  Priests;  ran  away  from  the  monastery,  entered 
I  the  French  army,  deserted,  eauu  to  Ametira; 
j  sickened,  was  visited  by  n  Roman  priest  who  had 
I  been  a  classmate  with  him  at  the  monastery;  and 
having  had  a  more  niunerouH  fanuly  than  was  re. 
quired  by  the  canons  of  bis  order,  had  tied  to 
j  America  where  his  orisons  would  not  be  disturbed 
by  tlic  cries  of  infants.  On  Ins  entering  our 
I  trapper's  cbamlxT  they  mutuilly  recognized  each 
other ;  nnd  horror  immediately  seized  the  pious 
jiriest  at  the  rccollrelion  of  the  lrnp|ier's  sinful- 
ness: aim  particularly  the  sin  of  lorsaking  thr 
holy  places  of  the  niotlur  church  ;  of  taking  car- 
nal weajKins  in  hands  that  had  been  einiiloyed  in 
making  crosses  in  the  sacred  jirecinets  of  tbc 
cloister,  'i'lie  trapper  bad  contracted  the  danger, 
ous  habit  of  thinking  for  himself,  and  replied  to 
the  godly  man  in  a  sharp  and  retaliatory  manner; 
and  among  other  things  drew  a  very  ungracious 
comimrison  between  escaping  from  prayers  nnd 
chants,  and  fleeing  from  an  unlawful  lainily. — 
This  reference  to  former  delin(|uencies  in  a  eoun. 
try  to  which  he  had  tied  to  escape  the  remem- 
brance of  them,  aroused  the  holy  indignation  of 
the  jiricst  to  such  an  extent,  that  he  iimnediately 
consigned  the  witness  of  his  fault  to  worms,  and 
nnd  his  sjiul  to  an  apprenticeship  at  tire  eating  in 
purgatory.  Hut  our  liapper  had  become  a  here, 
tic  1  la  the  blindness  of  iiis  heart  he  had  forgot- 
ten that  the  iwwcr  to  save  and  destroy  the  soul  of 
man,  had  been  committed  to  an  order  of  men 
chosen  and  set  apart  as  the  repositories  of  that 
portion  of  OmnijHiteiice ;  and  that  whatever  er- 
rors  of  conduct  may  occur  in  the  life  of  tliese 
men,  the  elHciency  of  the  anatheniutizing  and 
saving  (!onimisBion  is  not  thereby  annulled  ;  and 
be  rose  from  his  bed  and  burled  at  the  jiriest  sun- 
dry counter  anathemas  in  the  form  of  chairs  and 
shovel  and  longs ;  and  he  of  the  consecrated 
gown  left  him  without  the  benefits  of  his  [mtent 
absolution.  I  could  perceive  in  him  no  rctuniing 
belief  in  the  (Jmnipotenl  key  of  the  "  Itoman 
Citbolic  n|)ostolical  mother  church."  Instead  of 
Siiying  bis  prayers  and  counting  the  beads  of  bis 
rosary,  be  talked  of  the  stirring  scenes  of  a  trap- 
per's hfe,  and  recounted  the  wild  adventures  of 
the  moimtains.  Instead  of  the  sublime  'J'e  Deuni, 
he  sang  the  thrilhng  martial  airs  of  his  native 
land.  Instead  of  the  crosier,  he  bore  the  faithful 
rifle.  Instead  of  the  robes  of  sacred  oflice,  be 
wore  the  fringed  deer  skin  frock  of  the  children 
of  the  wilderness.  He  was  a  trapper — a  merry 
mountain  trapper. 

Gtli.  Twenty-five  miles  to-day ;  face  of  the 
country,  black,  hard  and  barren  swells ;  encamped 
on  a  small  tributary  of  the  Snptin ,  very  little 
grass  for  the  animals  ;  found  here  a  family  of  the 
Root  Digger  Indians  ;  the  man  half  clad,  child- 
ren naked,  all  filthy  ;  dirt  lay  in  nodules  on  the 
woman's  face  and  ears,  .she  was  clad  in  a 
wrapper  of  mountain  sheep  skin. 

7th.  Twenty  miles.  About  mid  day  heard  a 
loud  roaring  of  waters ;  descended  the  cliaBm  of 
the  ri\(r  and  discovered  two  enormous  springs 
bursting  from  the  basaltic  clifls  of  the  opposite 
shoie.  Their  roaring  was  heard  three  miles.  The 
lower  one  discharged  water  enough  to  turn  the; 
machinery  of  20  ordinary  manufactories.  I'lic 
water  I'oamed  and  rushed  down  inclined  plains  of 
rocks  the  distance  of  SOO  feet.    The  ooiuitry,  an 


in  lite  Ttoilnj  Mountains,  the  Oreqon  Territory,  etc. 


75 


uii(liiliitln({.  bnrrfii,  volciinic  plnin  ;  ncur  tin:  rivrr 
cut  into  IiIuIIh;  lava  ivrry  wliiTi" ;  wild  woriii- 
wiHiil  HiHJ  iinntlirr  Hliriililwo  feet  in  hitflil  hiiiriii},' 
a  yrlloiv  liloHHom,  tlic  only  wihmI  hcoii  ;  niduiipcd 
on  n  mn;ill  Btrcani  iilxiul  lliron  iiiilrii  from  llir 
rivcT,  I'oiiikI  here  Ww.  only  (;''•'*'"  olwcrvt'd  dur. 
inp  llif  (lay. 

Will.  Still  on  llic  wiHlcrn  Imiik  ti(  tlio  Knptin  ; 
river  oMi-roiirth  of  a  niilo  wide;  wairr  cxtrcincly 
cloar;  current  fivu  nulcH  the  hour;  dcptli  of  wa- 
ter ahoul.  four  ficl.  On  tliiMiiHtirn  nidi',  the  Koil 
a[>()(arfd  a  dark  miiihh  of  iinhcddid  fused  rock, 
Ntri'tchinK  in  brnkeii  iiiidulatiunH  to  llic^  diutunt 
higldnntlN.  In  that  dircelion  )lt)  iiiileii,  lay  n 
run^eiif  nioniitainH  like  an  irrejruhir  line  of  dark- 
ncHH  on  the  horizon.  ICvery  thin;;  tonehed  hy 
our  horK(~M  feet  elaimed  a  voleuiio  for  itn  hirtli- 
plaee.     Thirty  niiU's  to-day. 

!)tli.  l*'aee  of  the  eountry  the  same  aH  that 
passed  over  on  the  t^th — soareely  fjrass  enoujih  to 
feed  our  aninialH,  and  that  dried  to  liay.  The 
mountams  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  gradually 
neuring  il.  No  tinilier  since  we  left  the  iinine. 
iliale  vicinity  of  Fort  Hall.  \Vc  eorjkeil  our  food 
with  the  willow  hushes  which  the  Indians  liad 
killed  and  rendered  dry  for  such  purposes.  All 
the  rocks  more  or  less  fused  ;  many  lar(fr  tractH  of 
lava;  u  inimher  of  clear  little  hrisiks  lnd)lilin); 
over  llic  cinders  of  this  }{reat  hearll-  of  Xalun^'s 
tire.     Made  10  miles. 

I  lltli.  l''illecn  miles  over  "  cut  rock"  and  worm. 
W' "id  deserts  ;  and  at  mid-day  dcscciulcd  about 
GOO  Icet  in  the  chasm  of  the  Saptin,  and  traveled 
alonf  the  brink  of  the  river  u  short  distance, 
crossed  at  a  place  called  "  The  Islands,"  to  the 
eastern  shore. 

The  river  has  been  dipj)in);  deeper  in  tlic  plain 
the  last   tlirce  days.     A    bird's  eye  view  of  it  for 
sixty  miles  almvc  the  Islands  would  present  a  tor- 
tuous chasm,  walle<l  liv  ba.salt,  trap,  &c.,audsui>l'. 
aloiiR  the   centre  ol  the  valley,   from    100  to  b  ji;  ] 
feel  deep,  a  black  ehasm,  destitute  of  timber  and  | 
other  evidcucesol  fertility,  from  acpiarter  to  half  a 
mile  in  width.    In  the  ernlrc  ol   the  bottom  rushes  ' 
the  Saptin  ;  over  rocks  and  (jra  vel  a  clear,  pure,  ' 
htroufj  stream,  with  a  current  of  five  miles  to  the  ' 
hour:  water  three  and  iour  feet  in  dcjilli.     Trav-  i| 
eled  seven  or  eiffht  miles  from  the  lord  .-md  fell  in  L 
with  ciifht  or  tcnspriuffsol  limpid  water, l)id)blin;; ', 
thronKh  the  llmty   crust  of  ihe   plain.     'I'lie   sun 
was  pourinj^r  upon  ii.s   liis    fiercest    rays,  and  our, 
thirst  was  excessive.      A  haltinj;,  dismonntiii^'and  i 
riisliini;  to  the  water,  the  application  of  onry^iant's  r 
lips  to  the  li(|ui<l — a  paralysis olhisthirstproduccil  ' 
by  Ihe  boiling;  hot  sensation  whiidi  it  im|)arted  to  |! 
liis  swearing-  iij)i)anitus.  prepitrc<l  \is  to  resume  our  ' 
ride.     Hot  spring's,  lH)ilinir  jiot — no  apparent  min- 1 
oral  properties.  I 

I I  til.  Traveled  to-day  .').')  miles  over  an  irri'^n-  i 
lar,  rou;;li,  imscemly  desert  ;  volcanic  stones ! 
strewn  every  where  on  a  black,  impenetralile, , 
baked  surface  ;  soil  too  poor  lo  hear  the  worm-  | 
wood — trail  t(H>  far  iMsl  lo  see  the  river.  At  10  i 
o'clock  met  a  jietly  eliief  of  the  .Snake  Hoot  Mifj- 
jrers  and  his  son  on  horsehaek,  from  Jtoisais  river.  I 
He  was  dressed  in  a  hlankct  coat.  <lccr  skin  pants,  | 
and  moccasins  (raruished  with  cutplass  heads  and 
Btrips  of  red  llaimel ;  the  boy  entirely  naked. —  I 
Carbo  having  learned  from  him  the  situation  of  i 
his  tribe,  a.  few  bits  of  Indian  scandal,   that  wc  | 


could  reacli  Doisais  river  the  noxt  day,  llml  wc 
could  prohably  obtain  fiisli  liors<-8  there,  hid  copper, 
colored  highnesH  was  Icit  to  pursue  his  way  to  Fort 
Hall  to  (ret  his  (rims  repaired,  and  we  continued 
oumlo  the  lower  Coluinhin,  togct  outof  thimfravo 
of  dcHol  ition.  I  had  not  Rccn  an  acre  of  land  since 
leaving  l-'ort  Hall  capable  of  producing  the  grains 
or  vegelnblcB.  Kncaniped  on  a  small  brook  run- 
ning westwardly  towards  the  Sa|)lin. 

l^th.  On  route  at  (I  o'clock  of  the  morning  ; 
liorscH  weary  and  cripplini'  pitifully  on  the  "cut 
rock;"  face  of  the  eomitryaliBolute  sterility  ;  our 
trail  near  the  mountains,  aliout  !JIIO  iiiiles  east  of 
the  Saptin.  At  '.)  o'clock  caiiK^  lo  the  bhifl'over- 
liMiking  lloisais  river.  Here  the  valley  is  sunken 
six  or  seven  hundred  feet;  the  wh<ile  of  it  below, 
to  Ihe  limit  of  sight,  appears  to  have  suhsidcd 
nearly  to  a  level  with  the  waters  of  the  Saptin. — 
Lines  of  timber  ran  along  lla^  lloisais,  the  plutk  of 
green  grass  and  slirubH  doited  its  banks.  Tlic 
mountains,  whence  the  river  came,  rose  in  dark 
stratified  ridges.  Where  the  stream  escaped  from 
them  there  was  an  immenst!  chasm,  with  perpcii 
dicular  sides,  which  seemed  to  open  into  llii'ir 
most  distant  bases.  Horrid  crags  Ix-etlcd  over  iln 
dismal  depths.  I^ifty,  rocky  ridges  extended  far 
into  the  north.  In  the  west  and  northwest  towered 
the  nine  .Mountains.  We  descended  the  bluff, 
followed  down  the  lioisais  three  or  four  miles,  and 
crossed  the  river  into  an  encampment  of  Snako 
fishermen.  They  were  emjiloyed  in  laying  in  their 
winter  store  of  salmon.  .Many  liorw's  were  feed- 
ing on  the  plain.  We  turned  "urs  loose  ulso  for  a 
bit(  I  the  fresh  grass,  while  we  liought  finh,  &.C., 
and  made  other  arrangements  lo  improve  digestion 
and  our  speed  in  travelling.  Ami  our  businens 
was  transacted  as  follows :  For  ono  large  fish- 
hook wc  bought  one  salmon  ;  for  one  paper  of  vcr- 
million,  six  biiinhesof  spawn;  for  one  butclicr 
knife,  one  leatlu  rii  fish  rope.  Curbo  cxclianged 
horses  ;  <lis])oscd  of  one  worth  five  shilhngs  for  one 
worth  three,  iiiid  gave  a  blanket  and  ten  loads  of 
ammuiiilion  as  l«)ot.  He  was  vastly  pleased  with 
his  bargain,  ami  endeavored  to  show  himself  so,  by 
trying  to  grin  like  a  white  man  ;  but  he  was  not 
skilled  in  the  science  of  manufacturing  laughter, 
iind  made  a  deplorable  failure  of  it.  One  of  my 
own  horses,  whose  feet  were  worn  and  tender,  was 
(xchaiiged  with  like    profit  to  the  shrewd  jockies. 

These  Indians  arc  more  filthy  than  the  Hotten- 
tots. They  eat  the  vermin  from  each  other's 
heads  I  Uotli  sexes  were  nearly  naked.  Their 
shelters  were  made  with  rush  mats  wrapped  aromid 
cones  of  poles. 

Having  finished  our  trading,  wc  traveled  aliout 
ten  miles  <Iowm  the  stream  and  cncamiicd  upon  its 
hank.  The  plains  were  well  covered  with  grass; 
many  (lortions  seemed  susceptible  of  cultivation. 
The  bed  of  the  river  presented  the  usual  charac- 
teristics of  a  mountain  torrent  ;  broad,  shallow, 
with  extensive  bars  of  coar.se  gravel  crossing  the 
channel  in  all  directions.  The  water  limpid;  and 
its  quantity  might  be  expressed  by  saying  that  tho 
average  depth  was  six  inclus — width  ten  yards — 
rale  of  current  three  miles  an  hour.  In  the  month 
of  June,  however,  it  is  said  to  hring  from  its  ma- 
ternal mountains  iiiimense  Hoods. 

I3tli.  A  hreakliist  of  iKiilcd  spawn,  and  on 
trail  at  sunrise ;  traveled  rajiidly  down  the  grassy 
intervales  of  Boisais ;  passed  many  email  groves 


76 


TraveU  in  the  Oreal  Western  Prairici, 


of  liiiilMT.     Many    Inriiund  cinpldyrd  in  drying  I'  Swinn  Irupiicr  wan  llic  vrry  ninn  U>  (frapplo  tho 


nalninn,  nearly  iinkrd,  iijid  dirty,  and  niiwralilr, 
ran  iiflcr  iik  (nr  tnliaccd,  and  to  Iradc  linrKrf.  All 
IndlaiiK  have  a  mania  liir  lini'tcr.  They  will  Irndc 
liir  i;>Mid  nr  ill  lo  tlirniKclvrn,  at  rvi  ly  opportunity. 
Ilriclhry  licHtl  iiH  on  cvrry  Hide.  And  il'al  any 
nioijK  lit  «•<•  lM|;an  to  I'rliritatcoiirHclviHon  liavinn 
at  list,  cKcapcd  lioni  tliiir  atnioying  prtllioiiB  lor 
'- xlnnokc"  and  "  Ihih,"  tiic  next  iiiMincnl  (he  air; 
woiilil  rcHonntI  vvilli  wliipH  and  lioofH,  and 
"tiliinokp,"  "  Hliiiiok<',"  "  lioH,"  I'roni  linlladozcn 


dilriiuna.  Ilr  lirilird  tlinr  |roo<'  ^id  niid  th«ir 
Fair  rnndiict  to  the  I'nrt.  Vwr  or  six  of  llicm 
ipiirkly  scir.cd  liorBrfi,  and,  nioimlimj  wit'.ont 
daddlc  or  hriillr,  lr<l  tlir  way.  Wliih  tlicHi- 
lhini,'H  were  htinj;  done,  horrid  wniln  ca'iio  lioni 
their  hiitx  ainoni;  t'"'  hnnlirH.  .\nd  t!iow!  who 
were  with  uh  reH|Hiiidotl  lo  tlieni.  The  only 
word  iiltiri  d  was  one  whieli  wmnded  like  '  yap.' 
ThiH  they  »poke  at  firiit  in  n  low,  plaintive  key, 
and   hIowIv  ;    and  tlien,  on   a   higher  note  and 


new  appllcanln  more  lrniililenoine  than  their  pre.  rapidly,  as  if  under  Blron(;er  eniotionH  id  (jrief ; 
dcccHKorH.  No  .l(  w  with  old  elothen  ami  a  piiieli.  '  and  tlien  fill  away  n|»ain  to  the  low  plaint  of 
beck  wali-h  lo  Hell,  ever  pressed  eiiHlonierH  with  |  deHponding  donow.  I  notieed,  iih  we  rodii  aloiij;, 
more  iiBHidiiity  than  did  tlieBc  savn(;.'S.  Ilul  when  that  the  tiiilh  of  many  of  tlieir  liorBcH  were  Bliorii 
we  had  traveled  nliout  Ml)  mile«  from  our  niirhl  of  the  hair  in  the  nioNl  mieouth  manner.  'I'lin 
ramp  lliey  all  middeidy  disappeared ;  and  neither  ;  nianen  aim  were  nuKeralily  haj;(Tled,  Tlio  mm 
hut  nor  ShoHlionie  were  Men  more.  Tlieydarennt  wlio  rode  them  \.ept,  and  at  intervalH  waded.  I 
pasH  the  houndary  lielwren  theniBelveH  and  the  ]  was  afterward  informed  Ihat  their  tribe  wan  mourn, 
nonaks.  'I  iiig  the  death  of  wime  of  their  mniiber  who  had 

Soon  after  bein^;  relieved  from  tliene  pests,  our  i  lately  died  ;  and  that  it  is  ii  custom  with  them 
i;iii(U',t'arlKi,  inlitnatfd  that  it  would  be  aee<ird.  ,  and  other  weBlern  tribes,  on  the  death  of  friends, 
in(r  to  tlieruleBof  eti(pietlcin  thaleountry  for  him  .  in  war  or  by  disease,  for  all  the  siirvivini;  rela. 
to  leave   us,  unae(|uamlcd   though   we  were  with     lives  to  shear  the  manes  and  lailH  of  their  liorseH 


llieri;;ht  trail  amoint  the  10,111111  that  ernsised  the 
eoiintry  in  every  diieelion,  and  pi<ieeed  to  Furt 
lloisais  to  make  the  important  aimnuneoment  tliat 
lour  white  fiu'cs  were  apjirnaehinff  the  (Kint.  I 
remonstrated.  IJul  remonslrancc  was  mere  air  in 
eomparison  with  the  importanee  of  doinjr  his  ihity 


to  the  skin — kill  all  the  animals  of  tlif  deceased — 
pile  all  his  pirsonal  property  around  his  burial, 
place,  and  mourn,  in  the  manner  I  have  deserilH'd, 
for  wvcrnl  days.  Tlieir  camp  was  eiphi  miles 
south  of  Tort  Itoisais.  We  rode  the  distance  in 
ihree-iiuarters  of  an  hour.     Other  flonak  horse. 


n  the  most  apjiroved  style ;  and  away  he  shot  like    men  joined  us  along  the  way.     I'ach  one,  as  ho 

ovr.r;,|„l4  iiB^  uttered  the  wail  ;  and  then  one  and 

iMKiiier  took  it  uji  and  bore  it  idoug  the  scattered 
line  of  the  cavalcade.  It  was  not  very  dark — 
but  it  was  iiijfht — and  all  its  air  was  tilled  with 
these  expressions  of  savajje  (jricf.     Tears  flowed, 


ail  arrow  from  the  Imjws  of  his  trilx',  over  hillock 
anil  through  the  streams  and  ctijises  till  lost  from 
view.  Itwasalsmtl  o'clock.  The  trails  were 
BonumeidiiH  that  we  found  it  uscle.is  to  continue 
on  any  of  them.     Tor   if  we  selected   any  single 


one,  that  one  branched  into  many  every  half  mile.  1  and  sobs  arrested,  oftentimes,  the  wail  half  s|Hpkeii. 
.S)  that  \\v  deemed  it  bi  kI  to  '  take  our  cuuise'  aH  The  sympathy  of  the  poor  creatnics  for  each  other 
the  mariner  would  say,  and  disregard  them  alto-  1.  apjiearcd  very  sinccrf,  and  afliirded  stronir  induc.e- 
gcllier.  In  followiiij;;  thisdelermination  we  crossed  ';  nieiitH  to  doubt  the  correctniBS  of  the  usually  re- 
the  Itoisais  ajjain  and  again  ;  lloundcrcd  in  ipiag.  ceiveil  opinion  that  the  American  Indians  |xjsscss 
mires  and  dodged  along  among  whip|)ing  iKiughs  little  of  the  social  atU'Clions.  Tiiey  ccrtaiidy 
and  imdcibnish  ;  and,  when  unimpeded  by  Biieh  |  maiiil'esled  enough  on  this  oecasiou  to  render  the 
oliBtacles,  pelted  the  dusty  jdaiii  with  as  sturdy  a  hour  I  passed  with  them  more  op|)rcssively  pain, 
trot  as  ever  echoed  there,   till  llu'  sun  went  down     I'ul  than  I  hope  ever  again  lo  experience. 


and  his  twilight  had  left  the  sky.  No  Kort  yet  1 
Nor  had  we  yet  seen  the  Saptin.  We  halted,  held 
a  eoimeil,  determined  to  "  hold  our  course''  west, 
ward;  listened,  heard  nothing  but  the  nmttering 
lioisais,  and  traveled  on.  in  half  an  hour  came  to 
us  a  frightful,  mournful  yell,  which  brought  us  to 
an  instantaneous  halt.  W'c  were  within  fifty 
yardsof  the  llou.ik  Indians — .mil  were  discovered  1 
This  is  a  tierce,  warlike  and  athletic  tribe,  in. 
habiting  the  banks  of  that  part  of  Saptin  or  .Snake 
Hiver  which  lies  between  the  mouth  of  lioisais  or 
iteed's  Kivcraiid  the  Dluc  .Monntaius.  They  make 
war  upon  the  Ulackletl  and  Crows  ;  and  lor  that  '■ 
purpose  (dten  cross  the  Aliiuiilaius  thidngli  a  gap 
between  the  track  of  Livvis  and  Clarke  and  the 
'  Great  (iap.'  I!y  these  wars  their  number  has 
been  much  reduced.  They  are  said  to  sjicak  n 
language  peculiar  lo  themselves;  and  are  re 
gnrded  by  the  whites  as  a  ticacherons  and  dan- 
gerous race.  We  had  aipproaehcd  sf)  near  ilicir  ' 
"'amp  that  whatever  might  be  their  disposition 
towiird  us  it   was  impossible  to  retreat.      IJark- 


.Mr.  I'ayette,  the  person  in  charge  nt  lioisais, 
received  us  with  every  mark  of  kindness  ;  gave, 
our  horses  lo  the  care  of  his  servants,  and  intro- 
duced us  immediately  to  the  chairs,  tabic  and 
edibles  of  his  apartments.  He  is  a  French  Cana- 
dian ;  has  been  in  the  service  of  the  II.  li.  Com- 
pany more  than  ".'0  years,  and  holds  the  rank  of 
Clerk  ;  is  a  merry,  fat  old  gentleman  of  .'iti,  who, 
allliongh  in  the  wilderness  all  the  best  years  of  his 
life,  has  retained  that  manner  of  benevolence  in 
trilles,  in  his  mode  of  address,  of  seating  yon  and 
serving  you  at  table,  of  directing  your  attention 
continually  to  some  little  matter  of  interest,  of 
making  you  .«peak  the  French  language  '  prrfiiit. 
iitnit'  whether  you  arc  able  to  do  so  or  not,  n> 
strikingly  agreeable  in  that  mercurial  ])Cople. 
The  1  1th  and  loth  were  sj)ent  very  jdeasantly 
with  this  gentleman.  During  that  lime  he 
I'caKlcd  us  with  excellent  bread,  and  butter  made 
from  an  American  cow,  obtained  from  some  of 
the  Missionaries  ;  with  baked,  boiled,  fried  and 
broiled  salmon — .mil,  at  my  request,  with  some 


ness  concealed  the  surrounding  country — hid  the  |  of  his  adventures  in  the  wilileiness. 

river    and    the    trails.      We   could   not   escape  ;j      Fort  lioisais  was  CBlablished  in  1833,  as  the 

without  their  permission  and  aid.     Our  yoiwg  I,  post  wliciice  to  oppoBc  Wyeth's  oj)ciatioiiB  at 


in  the  Rock})  Mountains,  the  Ortgon  Territory,  <fjr. 


7V 


Fort  Ilnll.     Troin  it,  tlxi  Iludnon  Hiiy  ('ompniiy 

Mi'iil  lliiir  Iriiiliii)/  |)Brti(  <  over  llir  I'oiiiiliy  muIIi, 
ill  advniii'f  iiml  rmv  :iliii  aiDiiuil  cvi  ry  iiinvtinriil 
III  U'yclli.  And  liy  iihiii,'  lil)fr:illy  tin  liiiicl  hud 
liy  iimiiiiilly  for  llml  iiiirix^',  liny  iimlcrnold  liir 
Amrriciiii  lill  lie  wan  lorr  ■(!  Iimiii  iIip  coiinlry. 
Oil  ihn  part  oniir  II.  II,  Co  ii|i:iiiy,  I  wr  nolliin;; 
hlraii)r('  or  iiniiianly  in  lliiB  (■(■.. iiirt,  if  looked  nt 
MH  a  liiiHiiii'KN  trniiHarliiiii.  I'ropli'  jiaviiii;  (((iiul 
ri^lilH  ill  Iniili',  UhHiiiiic  iirriKharily  llii'  rclalivc 
IHwilioiiH  wliirli  llirir  Nkill  anil  riijiilHl  cnii  coiii- 
inaiid.  TliiH  iH  till'  |ioHili(iii  ol  Aiiiirii'iiiiM  and 
llritoiiH  ill  Orr^oii.  liy  ii  piiKilhiiiiiii'iiiN  jinliuy 
nil  Ilii:  iiai't  ol  llic  AniiriiMii  (iiivirniiii'nl,  ur 
liavc  (,ivrn  Mrilisli  huli|rclH  an  ('(|iial  riylil  willi 
oiir  own  cili/.iiiH  lo  Irii'ic  in  all  llial  ,  art  of.  the 
I'lililio  Dnniain  lyniu  \vi  hi  of  llir  ItorUy  Moun- 
tains. In  till'  cxiniHC  of  till'  rii;litH  iIiiih  grunted, 
the  il.  II.  I'ompaiiy  i  niploy  tlirir  iiicoinparablt' 
in^rrnuity  and  iiiiiimiih:  wrallli  in  driviii<;  every 
Anierieaii  liader  Iroiii  tlic  roanlx  of  tlie  Nortii 
I'aeiiie.  .Vnd  who  in  lo  he  lilained  for  lliiH  ? 
The  (Joveniinriit  of  the  I'liited  Slal<H,  that  lian, 
tliroiiirli  want  of  windoin  or  riniiiieHK  or  jiistiee, 
permitted  thi'Ke  iin|Hirtaiit  ii);hlH  of  ilH  eilizeiiH  to 
he  inoiiopoli/.ed  hy  liirei<{n  eapit.di:<i.<  for  tlie  l.-ml 

111)   V'^lfH' 

'I'IiIh  l''ort  Htund't  on  the  caHtcrn  hunk  of  the 
Saptin,  eight  inilPH  nortli  of  the  inoiith  of  Hoinuis 
or  lieeil'B  Kivor.     It  eon  'xts  of  a  paralleloirrani 
almul  lull  leet  Hquuie,  Kiirroiuded  hy  a  ntoekude  !| 
of  jioltH  alxmt  l.'i  feel  in  hi({lil.     It  waH  filtered  [! 
on   the   west    nide.      A''roHH  the  a'ea  north  and  !j 
Honth    ruiiH  tlic   ]>riii('ipal   hnildini;.      It   iu  con-  |j 
Ktructed  of  1oj;h,   and   eontaiim  u   la.'ge   dining- 
room,  a  hieepiiiu  iipartincnt   and   kitehcn.      On 
the  north  Hide  of  tlie  area,  in  front  of  this,  is  the 
■tore  ;    on   the  Houth  Hide,  tlie  dweliiiifjH  of  !he 
scrvantH  ;    hack  of  the  main  hiiilchnif,  ai>  oiit-(lo<ir  i 
oven  ;  and  in  the  north-east  corner  of  the  stockade  ] 
iH  tlie  haation.     ThiH  was  Fort  lloiBain  in   IS.'W. 
Monfi.  Payette  was  ercctini;  a  neat  adohic  wall 
nronnd  it.     He  expected  soon  to  1m' able  to  tear 
away   tlio   old    stockade,   and,   hcfore   this,   liaa 
donhtless  done  so. 

Amoiiji  the  curiosities  of  nis  estahlishinent 
were  the  fore  wheels,  axletree  and  thills  of  a  one- 
horse  wapm,  said  to  have  been  run  hy  the  Amcri- 
nun  MisBionuriea  from  tJie  .Stale  of  Connecticut 
through  tlic  mountains  thus  far  toward  the  mouth 
of  the  Coluinhia.  It  was  lilt  here  under  the  be. 
lief  tliat  it  could  not  be  taken  through  the  Blue 
Mountains.  But  fortunately  for  the  iie.xt  that 
hIiuU  attcmiit  to  cross  the  continent,  a  safe  and 
easy  jiasBage  has  lately  lH>en  discovered  hy  wliich 
vehicles  of  tliu  kind  may  be  drawn  through  to 
Wallawalla. 

At  10  o'clock  on  the  Ititli  wc  found  ourselves 
Hufticicntly  rested  to  recommence  our  journey. 
Our  jiaeks  nnd  ourselves  were  sent  across  the 
Saptin  in  a  canoe  ;  and  our  liorws  Iiavinu  swam 
it,  nnd  having  been  packed  and  saddled  firmly 
for  a  rapid  march,  and  a  '  lion  Jour'  having  been 
returned  by  Mons.  Payette,  with  the  additional 
kind  wish  of  a  '  io»  voyage'  to  us,  over  the 
mountains,  wc  left  the  old  gentleman  to  hin  soli- 
tary dominion.  He  usually  collects,  during  a 
twelvemonth,  twelve  or  fifteen  packs  of  beaver, 
and  employs  himself  in  the  salmon  Bens<m  in 
curing  large  quantities  of  that  fish  for  the  supply  I 


of  other  |)oi,t».  Our  course  was  down  the  west 
hank  of  the  river.  'I'he  soil  whs  saiul  iird  clay 
mi.ved  ill  marlv  eipi.il  projuirlionf'.  Il"  cciiii|hi. 
hilinii  IH  siirh  as  lo  rcnilir  it  liiiillMl  ;  but  the  iib- 
sence  of  dews  nnd  rains  lorbicls  the  e.x|Hetalioii 
that  il  will  ever  be  so.  Vegrtalion,  biiiicb-grasH 
and  V'ild  worniwisid.  'I'ravelid  l.'i  miles  and 
eneaniped  near  a  small  hiile,  at  the  lisit  ol  winch 
ran  a  little  tributary  of  tlir  Saptin.  i'roin  thi' 
Hoiuh  bank  of  this  siream  near  our  cani|i  burst  a 
great  nnniber  of  hot  springs— wa'er  inipn  !,'iiati"l 
with  sulphur — tenipcraliire  at  tlii'  iMiibng  (loiiil. 

17th.  Soil  as  on  the  tracii  of  ibe  llilh,  save 
that  the  hills  U'caiin'  higliir  and  mo  r  gravelly. — 
In  the  forenoon  eroKsed  a  brook  piiinig  inlo  the 
Saptin.  .\t  mid-rlay  toiiehed  the  Saptin  and  left 
il  again  for  the  hills.  .Miil-afleriinon  slrncK  an- 
other small  stream  and  followed  up  its  valUy  till 
night.     I'lstimateiloiir  day's  |o«rn(v  at   JtO  miles. 

IKlh.  The  hills  higher  and  more  rocky-  Those 
in  the  dislaneelo  th(!  west  and  north wei'i  partially 
covered  with  pines  and  cedaiH.  Those  iiimiedi- 
ately  around  our  track  thickly  clothed  with  dry 
hunch  grass.  Some  of  them  bad  hci'ii  burned 
over  by  the,  Indians.  Many  heaiiliful  little  valleys 
wiTc  seen  among  the  highlands.  Black  birch, 
rcse  and  willow  shrubs,  and  ipiaking-asp  Irees  on 
the  banks  of  the  little  briKiks.  I'liicaini""!  'iiider 
tlie  elill's  of  a  liiite.  The  moon  «as  in  the  llrst 
quarter.  Its  cold  beams  barnioiii/.ed  well  with 
the  cliilling  win<lH  of  the  mountains.  The  al- 
mospliere  ,ill  the  Jlay  sinokv,  as  in  Indian  summer- 
time in  the  highlaiids  of"Ne„-  Knglaiid.  Ksti- 
inated  distance  travelled,  '2^y  miles. 

lOlh.  Forenoon  over  gently  rising  conical  hillH 
clothed  with  hunch  grass;  soil  in  the  valleyH 
sand  and  clay.  t'(K)ked  dinner  at  L'Arbor  seul, 
a  lonely  pine  in  an  extinsive  plain.  Kncamped 
at  night  on  a  strei/in  coming  from  tlie  Blue  Moiiii- 
tains  in  the  north  west.  Distance  to-day  .'tD 
miles. 

20th.  Track  up  the  valley  in  which  we  en- 
camjicd  the  preceding  night,  over  gently  undula 
ling  hills  ;  high  broken  mountains  on  either  siih'. 
Alsmt  lii  o'clock  came  to  a  very  steep  dtsrent,  a 
mile  in  length.  The  up|>cr  part  of  it  was  so  pre. 
eipitouH  th.it  the  animals  with  packs  were  obliged 
to  make  a  zigzag  track  of  a  mile,  lo  descend  the 
half  that  ilislance.  The  lower  i)art  was  less  pre 
cipitous,  hut  covered  with  loose  vohanie.  rocks.- 
.\mong  these  the  horses  plunged  and  liruistd 
theinsclves  badly  ;  hut  fortunately  none  were  se 
riously  injured.  Some  rich  soil  in  the  valleys ; 
heavy  groves  of  yellow  pine,  spruce  and  hemlock; 
(piaking-asp  on  thostieami  and  in  the  raviries. — 
From  high  swells  over  wliich  ran  the  trail,  we 
sa'v  an  extensive  valley,  deei)ly  sunken  among 
the  lofty  mountains  in  the  north  east.  il  aji- 
pearcd  to  lie  thickly  coated  with  grass ;  some 
iwrtions  dry,  others  green.  The  meadow  lark 
made  its  appearance  to-day.  Toward  night  wo 
came  again  into  the  valley  which  we  had  entered 
at  mid.day,  and  encamiied  under  a  majestic  yeU 
low  pine.  Freezing  breezes  swept  down  fiom 
the  woody  mountain  around  us,  and  made  our 
fire,  blazing  high  under  the  dark  groaning  boughs, 
xtremely  agreeable.     Traveled  25  miles. 

21st.  A  day  of  severe  traveling.  In  the  fore- 
noon the  trail  ran  over  a  scries  of  mountains 
swelling  one  above  another  in  long   and  gentle 


re 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


ascontH,  covered  with  nolilc  forests  of  yellow  pine,  l! 
fir  niul    linnlock.     Aiihiujt  tlifHc    wcri'   finiuciil  ■; 
glndfn  of  rifli    pa!<tiirc    land;   irrass    yrcrii — ami  i 
nuirr '■oils  hiooks  of  ]>iii('  water  lrai)in!T  from   tlie 
clifl's,  or  iiuininiriniT  amnni.;  the  sliruhhef.     'I'hi 
Bnow.hall,   the   wax    plant,  the  yellow  and  hiaek 
currant — a  speeies  ol  wliortlcberrv — the    nerviee  , 
beny — ehokc  eherry — the  elder — the  slirnh  maple  f 
— and  all  the  heantiful  lloweni  that  (feni  a  nioini-  li 
tain  landscape  duriiw^r  \[n  Bliort  KUuimerH,  elolhcd 
the  ground.     At  l^J  n'elnek  we  entered  a  deep  ra- 
vine, at  thelx)tlr)in  ol   which  ran  a  Imjok  of  sweet 
clear  water,  and   dined  on   its  haidi.     A   dish  of 
rich   cocoa,  mush    .■ind  sii'_rar,    and   dried    hntValo 
tongue,  on  the  fresh  grass  iiv  a  cool  rivulet  on  tli<' 
wild  mountains  of  Oregon  1      Nature  slrelehed  her 
bare  and  mighty   arms  around  us  1     'I'he  moun- 
tains  hid  the  lower  sky  and  walled  out  the  lower, 
world  I      We  looked   upon  the   licautilul   bights  of  i 
the   nine   Mountains  and  ale  jiniong    its  spring  ; 
blossoms,  its  singing  iiim  s  and   lujly  baltlcmenls. 
10,000  feet  almve  the  seas.     In  the   alternocjii  wv 
continued  to  ascend  ;  vast  rolls  litfed  thenisclvi  s 
over  one  anoth.^r   in   a  northerly   direction  hiL'her 
and  higher,   till  in  the  distance  their  tops  niing- , 
led  with  the  blue  of  the  sky.  ' 

Wo  followed  this  grassy  ridge  till  near  •!  o'clock, 
when  wc  commenced  descending.  .V  mile  over 
slowly  dcclinhig  hills  and  the  descent  became 
frightful.  It  appeared  to  stand  1.')'  to  the  plane 
of  the  horizon.  The  horses  when  they  turned  at 
the  angles  of  the  zigzag  trail,  often  I'ound  the 
greatest  dilhculty  to  keep  <in  tlieir  feet.  Two 
miles  of  such  descent,  of  hi. icing  with  miirht  and 
main,  deposited  us  in  a  ravine  of  gn  at  depth,  and 
hung  far  and  near  with  e'ifls  and  abrupt  earthy 
bord(rB,  partially  covered  with  pines.  At  the 
l)ott  jm  a  brook  miming  in  a  northerly  direction, 
str  igglcd  and  roared  an)ong  the  fallen  rocks.  Wc 
Hide  our  way  with  nuieli  ditiiculty  down  '•» 
banks  a  short  distanee,  crossed  it  and  proceeding 
in  a  northwesterly  direction  to  another  s  ream 
flowing  eastward,  encanijied  among  the  pines. —  : 
These  valleys  were  tided  with  cold  wiiuls  whieli 
rushed  through  them  in  irregular  gusts,  (hilling  , 
every  thing  tliey  touched,  liut  we  set  tire  lo  large 
piies  of  dry  pine  logs  in  camp,  spread  our  couches, 
and  Wfiyworn  as  men  ever  were,  ensconced  our- 
selves in  them  for  npose.  ( 'arlx)  did  not  retire  ; 
but  went  whistling  almiit  among  the  horses — un- 
tied liis  wallet  ol  provisions  a".'  ate  a  second 
limp — punched  the  tires  and  looked  at  the  eastiTn 
sky  with  evident  interest.  The  vales  below  had 
been  set  on  lire  liy  Indians;  and  I  more  than 
half  supposed  that  he  expee'cd  to  see  some  of  his 
tribe  at  our  (p\arlers.  Hut  my  .upposition  was 
untrue. 

As  soon  as  the  moon  peeped  over  the  east- 
ern hights  he  roused  me  to  hear  in  broken 
French  that  our  horses  had  nothing  to  eat  in  the 
place  where  they  were;  and  that  we  being  rested 
must  climb  the  umuntain  to  llnd  fooil  tor  them. — 
No  proposition,  and  the  facts  brought  to  urge  .s 
adoption,  could  have  been  more  unfortunately  ri'a- 
sonable  and  true — at  that  particular  time.  .My 
first  impulse  was  :<>  order  him  to  his  eouci  ;  but 
a  hungry  whiiiney  l.om  mv  roan  pony  br-wsing 
near  me,  awakened  me  fullv  to  the  j)ro[ /iely  of 
the  measure  proposed.  1  tlierei6resuniin(,iicdiny 
weary  limbs  mid   feet,  bruised   and   idc  nud,  lo 


their  best  cfTorts,  and  at   12  o'clock  of  the  night 
we  were  on  niareii. 

Awhile  we  led  our  animals  through  the  langlcil 
wood,  and  then  along  a  steep  gravelly  sideol  the 
(diasni.  where  thi'  loolliohi  slid  .at  every  step; 
then  awhile  among  rolling  stones  so  thickly 
strewn  upon  tin;  ground,  that  the  liorses  touched 
it  only  when  their  weight  drove  their  I'cet  down 
between  them  ;  and  again  awhile  we  seemed  to 
haiiLf  on  the  (litis,  and  ])ause  between  advancing 
and  lollowing  the  laws  of  grtivilation  to  the  bed 
of  the  torrent  thai  battled  its  way  in  the  cav- 
erns far  below  ;  and  tlu  n  '.n  the  desperati(jn  of  a 
last  etVorl,  climbed  the  bank  loa  ph'-e  of  safely. 
.\t  lenirth  we  arrived  at  a  large  indentation  in  the 
lace  ot  the  mountain,  up  the  encircling  rim  of 
which  the  trail  for  half  a*  mile  was  of  compara- 
livelv  easv  ascent.  At  llie  end  of  this  distance, 
anotiier  dillieidty  was  superadded  to  all  we  had 
yet  experieneed.  The  sleeps  were  covered  to  the 
depth  of  several  feet  with  "  cut  rock" — dark  shi- 
ning cubes  Ironi  (me  lo  three  inches  in  (hameier. 
with  sharp  corners  and  edges.  It  was  well  nigh 
impossible  to  force  our  horses  on  them.  The  most 
obedient  one,  however,  was  at  length  led  and 
scourged  upon  them;  and  by  re|pealing  the  same 
inflictions,  ihe  remainder  were  linally  induced  lo 
follow.  All  walked  e.xeept  Smith.  lli-i  iiorse 
was  "  a  d — d  brute,  and  was  made  to  eairy  him 
or  die.''  The  poor  animals  would  slip,  and  ^^ather, 
and  cri|)ple  ;  and  when  unable  kmger  to  i^'idurc 
the  cutting  smni'  under  liieir  feet,  would  suddenly 
drop  on  tlieir  liiiees ;  but  the  pain  caused  by  that 
position  would  soon  lorce  them  to  rise  again,  and 
struiTcrlr  u|)  the  ascent.  An  half  hour  of  mch 
traveling  passed  us  over  this  stony  surface  to  the 
smooth  gras.-'.  swells,  the  surfa(-e  of  whie'i  was 
earthy  and  [ileasanl  to  the  lacerated  feet  jf  our 
horses.  The  green  grass  grew  thickly  all  around  : 
the  moon  iioiired  her  bright  beams  through  the 
frosty  air  on  the  slumbering  bight."! ;  in  the  deep 
pinc'clad  vales,  burned  dimly  the  Indian  fires  ; 
from  mountain  to  mountain  sounded  the  deep 
bass  of  a  thous.and  cascades. 

We  encamped  in  a  grove  of  pines  that  crowned 
Ihe  mountain  at  .'1  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
»  i!d.  We  saddled  early,  and  aseen(hng  for  two 
hours  a  line  of  gentle  gra.ssy  elevations,  came  to 
the  besinniii'l  of  the  northwestern  declivities  of 
llie  Blue  .Mountains.  Thi^  trail  ran  down  the  ra- 
vines of  small  lirooks  llowin;.'  nortliwcst,  and  oc- 
easionallv  over  high  swells  which  stretched  down 
the  plaiii,  that  lii^s  about  the  south  western 
branches  of  the  Wallawalla  Uivcr,  and  halted  to 
dine.  In  the  atteriKMin  we  struck  otl'  iiorthwest- 
lerlv  over  the  rolling  plain.     The  soil   in   the    de- 

,  pressions  was  a  light  and  loose  compound  of  sand 
and  clay,  and  sparsely  covered  with  bunch  grass. 
The  swells  were  of  gravel,  and  generally  barren  ; 
trees  on  the  brooks  only,  and  these  few,  small, 
and  of  little  value.  AImiuI  3  o'clock  we  came 
into  the  camp  of  a  middle-aged  Skyusc  Indian, 
who  was  on  iiis  onward  march  Iroiii  the  bufi'alo 
hu'.l  in  the  niounlain  vallies  east  and  norlheust 
of  Fort  Hall.  He  was  a  sjiare  man  of  live  feet 
eight  inelies.  dressed  in  a  green  camlet  frock 
coat,  a  black  vest,  striped  colloii  shirt,  leather 
pants,  moccasins,  and  a  white  felt  hat.  They 
had  two  children,  toys,  neatly  <dad  in  deerskin. 

,.  His  camp  eiiuipage  was  very  conifortablc — four 


in  the  Pocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  SfV. 


79 


or  five  cnin,).kctt!ri  with  tin  rnvprfl,  a  number  of 
puils  with  covers,  a  leathern  tent,  and  an  assort- 
ment of  fine  hutr.ilo  robes.  He  had  had  a  very 
successful  hunt.  Of  tlio  17  lior.'^i-s  in  his  cara- 
van, six  were  loaded  with  the  best  flesh  of  the 
buflfalo  cow,  cured  in  the  best  manner  ;  two  othcrn 
bore  his  tent,  utensils,  clDthini;,  robes,  &e. ;  four 
others  were  ridden  by  liiinself  and  family ;  the 
five  remainins;  were  used  to  relieve  those  that, 
from  ti-ie  to  time,  mifrht  tire.  These  were 
splendi  ^  ..iinials,  as  larjfe  us  the  l.cst  horses  of 
the  State.-.,  well  knit,  deej)  and  wide  at  the  shoul- 
ders, a  broad  loin,  and  very  iimali  lower  limbs 
nri'd  lect ;  of  extreme  activity  and  capacity  for 
endurance. 

Learninc:  '''''t  this  Indian  was  going  to  Dr. 
Whitman's  mission  establishment,  where  a  con- 
niderable  number  of  his  tribe  had  iiitehcd  their 
tents  for  the  approachiugr  winter,  I  deterniiued  to 
leave  the  cavalcade  and  aceompan)-  him  there. 
My  fjuide  Carbo,  therefore,  haviuL''  explained  my 
intentions  to  my  new  acquaintance,  departed 
with  the  remainder  of  his  charijc  for  Fort  Walla- 
walla,  t-'rickie,  I'in  English  "  poor  crane, "i  was 
a  very  kind  man.  (nnncdiately  after  the  depar- 
ture of  Carbo  and  company,  he  turned  my  worn- 
out  animals  loose,  and  loaded  my  packs  upon  his 
own,  gave  me  a  splendid  saddle-horse  to  ride,  and 
intimated  by  signilieant  gestures  that  we  would 
go  a  short  distance  that  afternoon,  in  order  to  ar- 
rive at  the  mission  early  the  next  day.  I  gave 
my  assent,  and  ww  were  soon  on  the  way.  Our 
course  was  northeasterly  over  sharp  swells,  among 
which  ran  many  (dear  .and  beautit'ul  brooks;  soil 
gravel,  loam,  sand,  and  clay,  and  well  covered 
with  dry  bunch  gr;i8s,  incapable  of  producing  the 
grains  without  irrigation.  The  swells  and  streams 
run  northwesterly  from  the  Blue  .Mountains.  Our 
course  was  diagonally  across  them.  Having 
made  about  10  miles  at  sunset,  we  encamped  for 
the  night.  I  noticed,  during  tlw  drive,  a  degree 
of  forbearance  towards  the  animals  whenever  they 
erred,  and  of  ufleetion  and  benevolence  towards 
each  other,  in  this  family  of  savag(M  which  I  had 
never  before  ob.scrved  iii  that  race.  When  we 
lialted  for  the  night  the  two  boys  were  Ix'hind. 
They  had  been  frolicking  with  tlieir  horw  »  -mil 
as  the  darkness  came  on,  Icjsl  the  trail.  It  t»ts  a 
half-hour  before  they  maili  lb.  ir  appeariJlee,  .<nd 
during  this  time,  the  worthy  p>if<*itn  exlubit-.l  the 
most  atV(<:tionate  solicitude  lor  thim  One  o/ 
them  was  but  thre(^  years  old,  and  waf  lashed  to 
the  horse  he  rode  ;  the  otii.  '  only  seven  years  of 
age.  Young  pilots  m  '•■  «ildern(*s  .it  night  1 
Hut  the  elder,  true  to  ti-  .lifacity  of  Ins  race, 
had  taken  his  course,  and  .-itruf  k  the  brook  on 
which  we  had  encainjied,  wi\h^  three  htmdred 
yards  of  us.  The  pride  of  ttw  [larcnts  at  this 
feat,  and  tlieir  ardent  atta(dim(iil  to  tin  r  cliil- 
dren,  were  perceptible  iji  the  pli'usurc  witii  which 
they  recLived  tiiem  at  their  eVMung  lire,  and 
heard  the  relation  of  their  childish  adventure. 

The  wiather  vas  so  pleasant  that  no  tent  was 
pitched.  The  willows  were  bent,  and  buiialo 
robes  spread  over  them,  rnderneath  were  laid 
other  robes,  on  which  my  Indian  host  seated  IniD- 
aelf  with  his  wife  and  children  on  one  side,  and 
myself  on  the  other.  A  (ire  burned  brightly  in 
front.  Water  was  brought,  and  the  evening  ab- 
lutions having  lx;eu  pcrforincd,  the  wiie  presciilcd  , 


a  dish  of  meat  to  her  husband,  and  -.no  to  myself. 
There  w.is  a  pause.  The  wo  nan  seated  li(\roelf 
between  her  children.  The  Indian  then  oowed 
his  head  and  prayed  to  (Jod  1  A  wandering  M. 
vage  in  Oregon  calling  upon  Jehovah  in  the  name 
of  .lesus  (^hrist !  .\fter  the  pruyer,  he  gave  meat 
to  his  children,  .and  pasfcd  the  dish  to  his  wife. 

While  eating,  the  frequent  repetition  of  vhc 
words  .Jehovah  and  .lesus  Christ,  in  tha  moit  ro- 
verential  manner,  led  me  to  suppose  they  worn 
conversing  on  religi(  us  topics;  and  thus  they 
passed  an  hour.  .Meanwhile,  the  exeeeduig  wea- 
riness  of  a  long  day"s  travel  admonished  me  to 
seek  rest. 

I  had  slumljcred,  I  know  not  how  long,  when 
a  strain  of  music  awoke  me,  I  w.as  about  rising 
to  ascertain  whether  the   sweet  notes   of  Tall** '» 

;  Chant  came  to  these  solitudes  from  earth  or  *ky, 

:  when  a  full  reeoilection   of   my    situation,  \nd  of 

■  the  religious  h;d)ils  of  inv  host,  easily  sieved  thn 
rising  inquiry,  and  induci'd  me  to  observe  iii»t»vn| 
of  disturbing.     Thi'  Indian  family   was  ouit^:^! 

'  in  its  evening  devotions.  They  were  kh^w^^N*  a 
hymn    in    the   Ncz    I'erces   langua^'.      U  vmg 

;  iinislud  it,  they  all  knelt  and  Iwnveii  their  faces 
upon  the  burt'alo  rol)es,  and  Cricku*  prayed  long 
and    fervently.       .Vfterwards   llwy   King  another 

i  hunn  and  retired.  This  wa*  XK«  first  b- -ithing 
of  religious  feeUngs  that  I  Ivvl  .seen  sine*  leaving 
the  .*>tates.     A  pleasant  evidence  that  the  Oregon 

;  wildcrne.ss  was  beginniiis;  to  bear  the  rose  of  (iiia- 
ron  on  its  thousand  hilln,  and  that  on  the  barren 
soil  of  th(^  .SkyuHi-    heart   was  licginniiig   to  bud 

;  and  blossom  and  ripen  the  golden   fruits  of  faith 

,  ill  .lehovah,  and  hope  in  an  after  stale. 

'  'XUl.  We  were  on  our  way  belbrc  the  sun  rose. 
The  dawn  on  an  Oregon  skv,  the  rich  dIuo  em- 
bankment  of  niountamsover  whi<'h  the  great  day. 

'  star  rais<>d  his  glowing  rim,  the  blandnesi  of  th» 
air,  the  velv  ambling  of  the  carav.in  towani  the 
nciglilK>ring  abode  of  my  countryman,  imparted 
to  my  i'liiid  and  Ividy  a  most  agreealilo  exhilara- 

I  U'm.     I  rickio  and  his  wife  and  children  als<,>,  ap- 

'  pf«>n>«;  to  enjoy  llio  atmosphere  and  seenery  of 
t'  I  -lative  valley  ;  and  we  went  on  together  mer. 
r;i,  over  till  swelling  plains  and  murmuring 
streams  till  .iiiout  eight  o'clock,  when  Criekio 
spurred  his  horse  in  advance  of  the  cavalcade, 
and  motioned  me  to  follow  him. 

Wo  rode  very  rapidly  ibr  alwul  three  hours 
over  a  country  gently  undulating,  well  set  with 
bunch  grass,  and  intersected  with  small  streams 
flowiiii'.  northwest  The  dust  had  risen  in  dark 
<louds  during  our  ride,  and  rendered  it  necessary 
to  bathe  belbre  presenting  ourselves  at  the  niii. 
sioii.  We  therelbre  halted  on  the  b.ank  of  a  little 
brook  overhung  with  \\  illows,  and  proceeded  to 
make  our  toilet.  Crickie's  paraphernalia  w.is  am- 
pie  for  the  pur|X)sc,  and  showed  that  among  his 

'  other  excellencies,  eleaiiliuess  held  a  prominent 
place.  A  small  mirror,  pocket-comb,  soap  and  a 
towel,  were  immediately  produced;  and  the  dust 

;  was  taken  from  his  jiersoii  and  wardrob*  with  a. 
nicely  Uiat  wuidd  have  satisticd  an  e.xqmsitu  on 
pavements. 

A  ride  of  five  nnlcs  afterward  brought  us  i;i 

i  sight  of  the  groves  around  the  inissiou.  The 
plains  far  and  near  were  dry  and  brown.  Evsry 
ionii  of  vegetation  was  dead  save  the  forest  trees, 
whose   roots  drank  deeply  of  the  waters  of  tha 


8CI 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


-    li^W  •i^,!U.-J-. 


iitrcnni.  Wo  ciosM'd  llic  rivor,  paf^sfd  the  Tndiiin 
(lU'iiinpniiTit  linrd  l)y,tind  wcri'  at  tlic  giilc  of  tlio 
mission  firlds  ill  prrseiircol  Dr.  Wliitiniiii.  Ilr 
w;iB  s|)r;ikiii!,f  Skj-nso  at  tlir  lop  ol'  liis  voicr  to 
fioitic  l.izy  Indians  who  were  drivinj;  llicir  rattle 
from  liii  tjardin  ;  and  ^rivinn  orders  In  nlliors  lo 
yoke  Ihriroxcn,  jjcl  tlii'  axis,  and  fjo  inio  the  I'or- 
rsl  liir  Iho  lower  sleeperH  of  llie  new  niissioii  lionse. 
iMr.  Hall,  printer  at  llie  Saiidwieii  Islands,  s<Min 
appeared  in  workini;  rlress.  willi  an  axe  on  his 
pjionlder;  next  eame  Mr.  Monirer,  pidlinsr  the 
pine  shavings  from  his  li.rrplarie,  .Ml  sicmed  de. 
Hiron»to  ask  me  liow  long  a  halloon  hne  had  hrcn 
rimning  helween  the  Slates  and  the  l"acilip  hy 
which  single  individuals  crossed  the  eonliiienl. — 
Tlicoxen,  however,  were  yoked,  and  icXch  glislen. 
ini5  in  the  smi.  ancl  there  was  no  lime  to  spend,  if 
thev  would  relnrn  from  their  lalwir  helore nightfall. 
So  Ihat  the  wherjcc  and  wherefore  of  my  Midden 
a|)pear!mre  among  Ihem,  were  left  for  an  atter 
explanalion.  TIk^  doctor  inlro<liiee<l  me  to  his 
rxei'lleni  la<ly,  and  departed  lohis  lulK)r. 

The  ufteriiixm  was  sjient  in  listless  rest 
from  the  toils  of  my  jonniey.  ,\1  sunset,  how. 
ever,  1  slrolled  out  anil  .ook  a  liird'n-eye  view  of 
the  plantation  and  plain  of  the  \\'allawalla.  The 
old  mission-lionse  stands  on  the  northeasl  bank  of 
tjie  liver,  alnjut  four  rods  from  the  water-side,  at 
the  northeast  corner  of  an  eiKdosnre  eoulaiiiing 
nl«)iit  ~oU  acres ;  ;2I)(I  of  which  arc  under  good 
rultivalion.  The  soil  is  a  thin  stratum  of  clay, 
mixed  with  sand  and  a  small  proporlajn  of  vege. 
tahle  mould,  icsting  on  a  base  of  coarse  gravel. — 
Through  this  gravel,  water  from  the  Wnllawalla 
filtrates,  and  hy  eapillarv  allraelion  is  raised  lo 
the  roots  of  vegetation  in  Ihe  inenmhenl  earth- —  j 
The  products  are  wheat,  Indian  cMirn,  onions,  tur-  I 
nijis,  rula  haga,  water,  musk  and  nutmeg  melons, 
Hquaslus,  asparagus,  tomatoes,  ciicmiihcrs,  ])eas, 
\-e.  in  the  garden — all  of  good  (pialily,  and  uhun- 
(Unit  crops. 

The  Wallawalla  is  a  pr.'tty  stream.  Its  rliaii. 
nrl  is  )>aved  with  gravel  and  sand,  and  al«ail 
three  rods  in  width  ;  water  two  feet  deep  ninning 
live  or  six  miles  the  hour,  and  is  limpid  and  cool 
Ihrongh  the  year.  A  hundred  vards  helow  the 
house,  it  makes  a  heautiful  hend  to  llic  southwest 
for  a  short  distance,  and  then  resumes  its  general 
direction  of  northwest  hy  norlli,  along  Ihe  lM)riler 
of  Ihe  |)laiilation.  ( >n  the  o|iposite  hank  is  a  line 
of  tiinher  am"  underwood,  interlaced  with  llow'.r. 
iiig  hramhles.  Other  small  groves  occur  alMive 
anil  hclow  along  the  hanks.  The  jdain  almut 
the  waters  of  this  river  is  alionl  30  milpK  fii|inre. 
A  great  jiart  of  this  siirfaer  is  more  or  less  cov- 
ered v.'itli  hunch  grass.  The  hranehes  of  the 
river  arc  dislriliulcd  over  it  in  such  manner  that 
most  of  it  ran  he  grazed.  I'lil  from  what  came 
under  my  own  ohservalion,  and  tiie  inforinaliou 
received  from  res])eetahle  American  citizens,  who 
had  examined  it  more  minnUly  than  I  had  time 
III  do,  I  sup|Misc  there  to  hi^  scarcely  !i,(IOII  acres 
of  this  vast  e.vlent  of  surface,  wliieh  can  ever  he 
made  available  for  the  purposes  of  eiiltivalioii. — 
The  absence  of  rains  and  dews  in  the  season  of 
crops,  and  the  ini|)ossil)ility  of  irrigating  inueli  ol 
t  on  account  of  the  hight  of  Ihe  jjeneral  surface 
above  the  streams,  will  uUiird  suflicifnt  reasons  fur 
entertaining  this  opinion. 

The  doctor  returned  near  night  with  his  tim- 


her — one  elm  and  a  number  of  <iiiaking-asp  slicks  ; 
and  appeared  gralillid  that  lie  had  been  alile  to 
find  Ihe  rer|uisile  number  of  sulVieienl  size  to  sup- 
port his  floor.  Tea  came  on,  anil  passed  away  in 
earnest  conversation  ahoiil  native  land  and  friends 
left  lliert — of  Ihe  |)leasiire  lliey  derived  from  their 
present  oecupatinu — and  Ihe  trials  thai  hefel  them 
while'  eonuueneiug  Ihe  mission  and  afterward.— 
Among  Ihe  latter,  was  inenlioned  Ihc  drowning 
of  their  chilli  in  the  Wallawalla  Ihe  year  before — 
a  liille  girl  two  years  old.  She  fell  into  llie  river 
al  Ihe  place  where  they  took  water  for  family  use. 
The  inolher  was  in  Ihe  house,  the  fallier  a  short 
distance  away  on  the  preiin.st  s.  The  alarm  was 
conveyed  to  iheiii  almost  insl.inlly,  and  they  and 
ollicrs  nishi'd  lo  Ihe  slreani,  and  sought  for  il  'ir 
child  with  franlie  eageriiessi.  Hut  the  strcig 
heavy  enrrenl  had  carried  it  down  and  lodged  it 
in  a  clump  of  hush,  s  under  the  hank  on  which 
they  stood.  They  passed  the  spot  where  it  lay, 
hut  found  it  tmi  late.  Thus  tin  «e  devoted  ))eople 
were  herefl,  in  Ihe  most  afilieling  manner,  of  their 
only  child — left  alone  in  the  wilderness. 

'I'he  mori.iij  r  if  Ihe  'Mlh  ojiened  in  the  loveliest 
hues  of  the  >'  >  .      Siill  none  of  Ihe  bcaiily  of  the 
harvest  field — none  of  the  fragrance  of  the  ripened 
fruits  of  antiimn   were  there.     The  wild  horses 
were    frolicking  on   the  plains;    but    the    plains 
smoked  with  dust  and  dearlli.     The  green  woods 
iuk'  the  streams  sent  up  their  liarinonies  with  the 
breeze;  but  it  was  like  a  dirge  over  the  remains 
of   the   deparlcd   glories  of  the   year.     And  yet 
when  the  sinoking  vegetables,  the  hissing  steak, 
bread   white   as   snow,   and   the    ncwly.cliurncd 
golden  butter  graced  the   breakfast  table,  and  the 
happy  coimlenanccs  of  counlrymen  and  country- 
women  Klione  around,  I  could  with  dill'ieully  1  c- 
licve  myself  in  a  eoimtry  so  far  dislant  from,  and 
so  unlike  iiiv  native  land,  in  all  its  features.     Bnt 
during   brcakfi^l.   this  iileasant  illusion  was  dis. 
jiellcd  by  one  of  the  causes  wliii'h   induced   it. — 
Our   steak   was  of   horse-tlesh  1     On  such  meat 
this  |Kior  family  subsist  most  of  the  time.     They 
I  (k)  not  complain.     It  enables  them  lo  exist  to  ilo 
the   Indian   good;  and  thus  satisfies  them.     Bnt 
can  it  satisfy  those  who  give  money  for  the  sup. 
i  jiort  of  inissioiiaricH,  that  the  allowance  made  by 
!  their  iigenis  for  the  support  of  those  who  abandon 
'  l>arents  and  freedom  ami  home,  and  surrender  not 
only  till  niselves  lo  Ihe  mercy  <d  the  s.ivagcs,  but 
t''cir  olVspriiig  also,  should  be  so   meagre,  ns  to 
eo.iipel  them  lo  cat  horscficsh  !     This   necessify 
:  existed  in  iH.'J'.lat  Ihe  mission  on  the  Wallawalla, 
;  and  I  doubt  not  exists  in  lb!.'?. 

The  breakfast  being  oyer,  the   doelor  invited 

.  me   to  a   slroU  over  liis  iiremises.     The  trarden 

,  was  first  examined  ;  ils  location,  on  the  curving 

I  bank  of  the  Wallawalla  ;  Ihe  aiiple  trees,  growing 

thriflily  on  ils  weslern  bordir ;    the  hcaulifnl  to. 

mato  and  other  vegetables,  hiirdeniiig  Ihe  groundH. 

Xext    to    the   fields.     The  doctor's  views  of  Ihe 

;  soil,  and  its  mode  of  receiving  moislure  from  Ihe 

I  river,  weri^  such  as  1  have  previously  expressed. 
"  For,"  said  he  "  in  those  places  where  you  per- 
ceivo  the  stratum  of  jfravel  to  be  raised  so  a.i  to 

|:  intcrru|(t  the  cajiillary  attraction  of  the  sujierin- 
^  cumbenl  carlh,  the  crop  failed."  Then  to  the 
■  new  house.  The  .ulobic  walls  had  been  erected 
:l  a  year.     It  was  about  ID  feel  by  iiU,  um\  o.ie  and 

II  a.  hall  btories  liigh.    Tho  intciior  area  consisted 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc. 


81 


of  two  parlorn  of  the  ordinary  kIzc,  Hcparatcd  by  || 
•in  ailnhii'  |iortioii.     The  oiilir  door  opniiil  into  , 
one  of  tlinn;  and  from  this  n  door  in  the  parti- 
tion Ird    to  tlip  other.     Aliovc  wcrt'   to  hi' tilrrpiiip  ' 
aparlnicMtH.     To  llic  main  hiiildini;  wm  atlaclit'd 
another    (if  cfpial   liijflit  designed   for  a   kiti'lien, 
with  I'liamhcrs  alMiVf  for  ht'rvanls.      Mr.   Moiijjer 
and  a  Sandwi<  li   Islander  were  hiyin;;  the  il(H)rs,  j 
nmkiuir  the  doorn,   i.S;r.     The  hnnher  iis( d  was  a  { 
very  >-iiperior  ipiahty  of  yi'llow  pine  phmk,  which  j 
Dr.  \\'hilman    liad  cnt  with  a  whip  wiw  among; 
tht  lihie   Monnt.iins,  I.")   miles   distant.     Ni-\t  to 
the  "  e.ira'  "     \  fine  yoke  of  o.\in,  iwo  eowis  an  : 
.'Vnicriean    mil,  and  the   heginnini;  of  a  sloid;  of  j; 
lioys  were  ti.ereahont.      And  last  to  the  urist.mill  j' 
on  liio  other  side  of  the  river.     It   consisted  of  a  j; 
spherical  wroni^'ht  iron  hnrr  four  or  live  inches  in  | 
diameter,  surronnded  hy  a  connterlmrred  surf  ice  \\ 
of  the   same  material.     The  si>herieal    hnrr  was  |! 
permant  ntly  attached  to  the  shaft  ol  a  horizontal 
water-wheel.     The    snr-  /undin;;    hiirrcd  surfac( 
was  (irmly  fastened  to  innhers,  ni  Buch  a  position  : 
tliut  when  the  waler-whc<l  was  put  in  motion,  the 
oijoralion    of  the  mill   was  snuilar  to  that   of  a  , 
coflicnnll.     It  was  a  crazy  thin;!;,  hnl  for  it  the  : 
doctor  was  ^rralelul.     It  would,  with  the  help  of  i 
himself  and  :vi  Indian,  grind  enough  in  a  da^'  to 
feed  his   larnily  a  week,  and  tlia>.  was  hetter  than  to 
heat  it  \Mth  a  pestle  and  mortar.     It  ajjpeared  to 
me  (pule  remarkahle   that  the  doctor  could    liav<' 
niade  so  many  improvements  since  tlie  year  1S,'M. ' 
Hut  the  industry  which  crowded  everv  hour  of  the  ' 
day,  his    untiring  energy  of  character,  and   the  I 
very  ellicient  aid  of  his  wife  iu  relieving  him  in  a  \ 
great  degree  from  the  laljors  of  the  school,  are,  '• 
jierhaps,  circumstancen  wliich  will  render  possi. 
liility  probahlc,  that  in  five  years  one  .nun  without 
funds  for  such  purposes,  without  other  aid  in  that ' 
business  than  tliat  of  a  fellow  missionary  at  short ; 
intervals,  should  fence,  plougli,  build,  plant  an  : 
orchard,  and  do  all    the  other  laliorious  acts  of; 
o|)ening  a  plantation  on  tlic  faic  of  that   distant  i 
wildernexs;  learn  an  Indion  hmguage,  and  do  the 
duties,  meanwhile,  of  a  i)byfi(!ian  to  the  associate 
stations  on  the  Clear  Water  and  Spokan. 

In  the  afternoon,  Dr.  \V.  ai'.d  his  lady  assembled 
the  Indians  for  inslruction  iu  reading.     Forty  or 
fifty  cinldreu  between  the  ages  of  7  and  Ibi,  and 
Fcveral  older  people  ijat.hcr  on  the  sliady  side  of; 
the  new  mission-house  at  the  ringmg  ol  a  hand,  ij 
bell,  and  seated  themselves  in  an  orderly  manner  | 
on  ranges  of  wooi'en  henelKs.     The  doctor  thcnf 
wrote  monoHyllnblcK,  words,  and  instructive  sen- 1 
tcnces  iu    the  Nez  Ferees  language,   on  a  large 
hlaeklmard  suspended  on  the  wall,  and  iiroeeeded 
first     to     teach    the    nature    and  jxiwer  of  llu! 
lettcfH  in  representing  tiic  simple  sounds  of  the  '!; 
hingiiagc,   and  then    the   eonslruelion   of  words 
niul  their  uses  in  forming  sentences  expressive  of! 
thought.      The   .sentences    written    during   these 
ojierations  w<rc  at  last  read,  syllable  by  Hyllabic,  ■ 
and  word  after  woril,  and  e.vjilaiiied  until  the  sen- . 
timents  eontaiiied  in  them   were  comprehcndod. : 
And  it  was  delightful  to  notice  the  undisguised, 
avidity  with  which  these  people  would  devour  a  I' 
new  idea. 

It    seemed    t<i    produce    ii    thrill    of    deliglit 
that  kindled  up    the    eoimtenanee    and    anima- ! 
ted   the    whole    frame.       A  hymn    in    the    Nez  I; 
PeiecB  Iniiguaijc,  learned  by  role  frym^llicu:  teuch- ,, 


ers,  was  then  sung,  and  the  o.xerciBes  closed  with 
prayer  by  Dr.  \V.  iutlie  Baine  tongue. 

:i,')lh.  I  was  awakened  at  early  dawn  by  the 
inerr3'  sounds  of  clapping  boards,  the  hammer, 
the  a.vc  and  the  plane;  t  le  sweet  melodies  of  the 
parent  of  virtue,  at  this  cradle  M'  civilization. 
When  I  rose  every  thing  wasiii  inoiion.  Dr.  VV.'s 
little  herd  was  lowing  in  Ihi^  riv.r;  the  wild  horses 
were  neighing  at  the  morniiig  breeze ;  the  birds 
were  <'aroliiig  in  the  groves.  I  sanl  every  thing 
was  alive.  iNav,  'lOt  so.  The  .'^kyuse  village 
Was  ui  the  deepest  sliimher,  save  a  few  solitary  in- 
dividuals who  were  stalking  with  slow  and  stately 
tread  up  a  neigblKirlng  bute,  to  descry  the  retreat 
of  their  animals.  Their  conical  skin  lodges  dot- 
led  the  valli  y  above  the  mission,  and  imparted  lo 
the  morning  landscape  a  peculiar  wildness.  .As 
the  Sim  rose,  the  imuales  began  to  emerge  from 
them.  It  was  a  chilly  hour  ;  and  their  biitlido 
lolies  were  drawn  over  tlu'ir  shoulders,  with  the 
hair  side  ne.\t  the  Ixidy.  The  snow  white  llesli 
side  was  fringed  with  the  dark  fur  thai  crept  in 
sight  around  the  edges,  and  their  own  l"lig  black 
glistening  tresses  li'll  over  it  far  down  the  .laek 
The  chililren  were  out  in  all  the  biiovancy  of 
young  life,  shouting  to  the  ]iraneing  steed,  or  bet. 
ting  gravel  .stones  that  th"  arrows  ui>on  their  little 
bows  woulil  be  the  (irsl  to  clip  the  sturdv  thisllo 
head  upon  which  they  were  waging  niiniic  war. 
Tlie  women  were  Inisy  at  their  tires,  weaving 
mats  from  the  flag ;  or  sewing  mocctisins,  leg. 
giugs  or  hunting  shirts.  Criekie  was  giving  meat 
to  liis  friends,  who  the  past  winter  had  fed  him 
and  taken  care  of  him  ivhile  lying  sick. 

'I'liis  is  the  imperial  tribe  of  Oregon.  They 
formerly  claimed  a  prescriptive  right  to  exercise 
jurisdiction  over  the  country  down  the  ( 'olumbia 
to  its  mouth ;  and  up  the  North  and  Senith  Forks 
to  their  sources.  In  the  reign  of  the  late  high 
Chief,  the  brother  of  him  who  now  holds  that  sta- 
tion, this  claim  was  acceded  to  by  all  the  trilM;s 
within  those  districts.  But  that  taleiitedand  brave 
man  left  at  his  death  hut  one  son,  wlio,  after  re. 
eeiving  a  thorough  education  at  the  Selkirk  set. 
tlenu  nt,  on  Red  River  of  Lake  \\'iime])e<g,  also 
died — and  with  him  the  imjicrial  dignity  of  the 
Skyiisc  tribe.  The  person  in  charge  at  Fort 
WuUawalla,  indeed  (kessed  the  present  incum- 
bent in  better  style  than  his  fellows;  proclaimed 
him  high  chief,  and  by  tri'ating  him  with  the 
forinalii  usually  tendered  to  his  deceased  brother, 
has  obtained  for  liim  tlie  name,  but  not  the  re. 
siH-ct  and  influence  belonging  to  the  otlicc.  lie 
is  a  man  of  considerable  mental  power,  but  has 
none  of  the  fire  and  energy  attri'.iuled  to  his  pre- 
decessor. The  Wallawallas  and  Tpjicr  I'henooks 
,ire  the  only  trilies  that  continue  to  recognize  the 
Skyiise  supremacy. 

The  Skyiise  are  also  a.  tribe  of  merchants.  Be- 
fore the  establishment  of  Forts  Hall  and  lioisais, 
they  were  in  the  habit  of  rendezvousing  at  "  Lu 
(irande  Hounde,"  an  extensive  valley  in  the  Rhic 
.Mountains,  with  the  Shoshonie*  and  other  Indians 
from  the  valley  of  the  Saptin,  and  exchanging 
with  them  their  horses  for  furs,  butValo  robes,  skin 
tents,  iSi,c.  Rut  since  the  building  of  these  jiosts, 
that  portion  of  their  trade  is  nearly  destroyed.  In 
the  winter  season,  a  band  of  tliein  usually  dcs. 
eends  to  the  Dalles,  barters  with  the  Cliinnoks  for 
salmon,  uiut  holds  cuuiicils  over  that  inciin  and 


82 


Teavels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


miserable  build  to  ascertain  their  misdemcanorB, 
and  |iunish  tliciu  tliorrfor  by  wliippiiiir.  TIio  Wal- 
lawallae,  liowevcr,  arc  tlicir  most  iiimicrniis  and 
profitable  customnrs.  They  nia)-  well  be  termed 
the  tisliermeii  of  the  Skyiise  eamp.  Tliey  liv{:on 
lx)tli  baaUo  of  the  Columbia,  from  llie  Ubie  Moim- 
tains  to  the  Dalles,  and  eni|)lcv  'lieniselves  prin- 
cipally in  takinfj  Halmon.  I'or  tlu  <e,  tlieir  betters, 
who  consider  tishini;-  a  menial  bnsii  'sh,  give  them 
hoixee.  Tliey  own  larjre  nnnibersof  these  animals. 
A  fikj'use  is  thouifht  to  be  poor  who  has  but  Id  or 
'■iO  of  them.  They  jrenendly  have  many  more. 
One  fat,  hearty  old  fellow,  owns  somellnni(  over 
S},000  ;  i\''  '.ild  e.veept  so  many  as  he  needs  Ionise 
or  sale. 

To  these  reports  of  the  Indians,  Doctor  Whit- 
man  ^'ave  little  credence;  so  at  variance  were 
Konif  of  the  facts  related,  with  what  he  presumed 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  woidd  jiermit  to  be 
done  by  any  one  m  their  employment,  or  under 
their  patronajjc — tin;  abuse  of  American  citizens, 
and  the  inifientlemanly  interference  with  their 
charactiTS  and  callinfr. 

On  the  niorninjr  of  the  27th,  the  arrival  of 
;\Ir.  Ermelinsrer,  the  senior  clerk  at  l-'ort  Mall 
from  I'ort  Wallawalla,  created  (juite  a  sen- 
sation.  IJis  uniform  kindness  to  the  missionary 
has  endeared  him  to  them.  .Mv  eonii)anion,  Uk  r, 
accompanied  him.  The  poor  old  man  had  becon.  - 
lonely  and  discouraged,  and  as  I  had  encouiaged 
him  to  e.xj)ect  any  assistance  from  me  which  his 
circumstances  mifrlil  demand,  it  afVorded  me  the 
greatest  pleasure  to  make  his  merits  known  to  the 
missionaries,  who  needed  an  artisan  to  construct 
a  mill  at  the  station  on  the  Clear  Water.  Dr. 
Whitman  contracted  with  him  for  his  services, 
and  Blair  was  happy.  1  sincerely  hope  he  may 
forever  be  so. 

I  attended  the  Indian  sciiool  to-day.  Mrs. 
Whitman  is  an  indefaligabh;  instructress.  The 
clnldren  read  in  monosyllables  from  a  primer 
lately  published  at  the  ('lear  ^\'ater  station. 
After  reading,  they  repealed  a  number  of  hymns 
in  the  Nez  I'erces,  composed  by  Mr.  Smith,  of 
the  Spokan  sUition.  'J'hese  were  afterward  sung. 
They  learn  nmsic  readily.  At  nightfall  1  visited 
the  Indian  lodges  in  company  with  Dr.  Whit- 
man.  In  one  of  them  we  saw  a  young  woman 
who  imagined  that  the  spirit  of  a  Mi'dicin  man, 
or  conjuror,  had  entered  into  her  system,  and  \\  as 
wasting  her  life.  She  w;ih  resorting  to  the  native 
reu.'  "_  '"•' «ueh  evils — singing  wdd  incantations 
and  wt  ping  loudly.  'I'lis  tribe,  lik.-  all  others 
west  of  tlie  mountains,  believe  in  wilchcr.it  under 
various  forms — practice  i;le\glil.of-luind,tire-ear.ng, 
«tc.  They  mscrt  rough  slicks  into  their  throats 
and  draw  them  up  and  do\,n  till  the  i)lood  Hows 
freely,  to  make  them  long-winded  <in  march. 
They  flatten  the  head,  and  |)erforate  the  se|(tum 
or  uarlition  of  the  nose.  In  this  orifice  they  wear 
various  ornaments.  The  more  common  one  tliat 
I  noticed  was  a  wolf's  tooth. 

The  .Skyuse  have  two  distinct  languages  :  the 
one  used  in  ordinary  intercourse,  the  other  on  ex- 
traordinary occasions ;  as  in  war.councils,  &,c. 
Both  are  said  to  be  copious  and  expri'ssive.  They 
also  speak  the  Ne/.  I'ercea  and  Wallawalla. 

On  the  28th,  , Mr.  Krmitinger  started  for  Fort 
Hall,  and  Blair  for  the  t  le.ir  Water.  Early  in  the 
ilay  the  Indians  brought  in  large  numbers  of  their 


There  is  every  variety  of  color  amon;^  them,  from 
the  shining  coal-black  to  the  milk-wliite.     Some 


horses  to  try  their  speed.  These  are  a  fine  rac?  of 
animals ;  as  large  and  of  better  form  and  more 
ctivily  than  most  of  the  horses  in  the  States. 
■iety  of  col 
ack  to  th( 
of  them  are  jiied  very  singularly  ;  as  a  rof.n  body 
with  bay  ears,  and  white  mane  and  tail.  Some 
are  spotted  with  white  on  a  roan,  or  bay,  or 
sorrel  ground,  with  tail  and  ears  tipped  with 
black.  They  are  belter  trained  to  the  saddle 
than  those  of  civilized  countries.  When  an  In- 
dian wishes  an  increase  of  his  serving  animals, 
he  mounts  a  fleet  horse,  and,  lassoo  in  hand, 
rushes  into  liis  band  of  wdd  animals,  throws  it 
upon  the  neck  of  a  chosen  one,  and  chokes  liim 
down  ;  and  while  in  a  state  of  insensibility,  ties 
the  hind  and  fore  fee  I  lirrnly  ti/gether.  When 
consciousness  returns,  the  animal  struggles,  vio- 
lently  and  in  vain,  to  get  Um.sc.  Ilis  fear  is  then 
attacked  by  throwing  bear-skins,  wolf-skins  and 
blankets  at  his  head,  till  he  becomes  quiet.  He 
is  then  loosened  from  the  cord,  and  rears  and 
plunges  furiously  at  the  end  of  a  long  rope,  and 
receives  another  introduction  to  bear-skins,  &,c. 
After  this,  he  is  approached  and  handled  ;  or,  if 
still  too  timid,  he  is  again  beset  with  blankets 
and  bear.skins  as  before,  until  he  is  docile.  Then 
come  the  saddling  and  riding.  During  this  train, 
ing  they  uniformly  treat  him  tenderiy  when  near, 
and  rudely  when  he  pulls  at  the  end  of  the  halter. 
And  thus  they  make  of  their  wild  steeds  the 
most  fearless  and  pleasant  riding-animals  I  ever 
mounted. 

The  course  pursued  by  Mr.  Whitman,  and 
other  Presbyterian  .Missionaries,  to  improve  the 
Indians,  is  to  teach  them  the  Nez  I'erces  Ian- 
guage,  according  to  fixed  grammatical  rules,  for 
the  purjKisc  of  opening  to  them  the  Arts  and  Re- 
ligion  of  civilized  xNations  through  the  medium 
of  lx)oks.  They  also  teach  them  jiractical  Agri. 
culture  and  the  useful  Arts,  for  the  purjiose  of 
civilizing  their  physical  condition.  By  these 
means,  they  hope  to  make  them  a  better  and 
hapjiier  people.  Perhaps  it  would  be  an  easier 
way  to  the  same  result,  if  li.ey  would  teach  them 
the"  English  language,  and  thus  epcn  to  them  at 
once  the  treasures  which  ctntiirles  of  toil  by  a 
superior  race  have  dug  from  the  mines  of  Intelli- 
gence and  Truth. 

This  was  the  evening  before  the  Sabbath,  and 
Dr.  Whitman,  as  his  custom  was,  invited  one  of 
the  most  intelligent  Indians  to  his  .Study,  trans- 
lated to  him  the  text  of  Scripture  from  which  he 
intended  to  leach  the  tribe  on  the  morrow,  ex- 
plained to  him  its  doctrines,  and  reiiiiircd  of  him 
to  explain  m  turn.  This  was  repeated  again  and 
again,  until  the  Indian  obtained  a  clear  under- 
standing of  its  doctrines. 

The  '2!)th  was  the  Sabbath,  and  I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  noticing  its  observance  by  the  Skyuse.  I 
rose  liefore  the  i>un.  The  stars  were  waxing  dim 
on  the  morning  sky — the  most  charming  dawn  I 
ever  witnessed.  Every  possible  circumstance  of 
Bubbmity  conspired  to  make  it  so.  There  was 
the  pure  atmosphere  ;  not  a  wisp  of  cloud  on  all 
its  transparent  depths.  The  lij^ht  [wured  over  the 
Blue  Mountains  like  a  cataract  of  gold  ;  first  on 
the  upper  sky,  and  deepening  lis  course  through 
the  lower  air,  it  gilded  the  plain  with  a  flood 
of  brightncBS,  mellow,  beautiful  brightness  ;    the 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  S)V. 


83 


i-harms  of  inornino;  lifjlit,  on  llio  lirown,  Ixjund- 
loss  w)litii<l('s  of  Oi('t;oii.  Tlii'  liriczt!  scarcoly 
nistlcil  till)  leaves  of  tlio  (lyiiifT  llourrs ;  the 
flriiinniinij  nl  Ihr  wninlpcckcr  on  tlir  distant  tree, 
noiiridi-'d  a  iiiiinliil  diH(i>rd  ;  so  ^raiid,  so  iiwiiil, 
and  yrl.  so  swnt,  wen'  tlii;  imiittcird  symplionits 
of  the  suliliiiii'  fjiiirl  of  tlic  \\  ildiiiu'ss. 

At  111  o'clock  the  Skyusc  asscmlilcd  for  worsliip 
in  the  o|)cn  iiir.  Tlic  cxcrcisiH  ucrc  accordin;;  to 
the  I'rcsliytciian  foiiji ;  llic  invocation,  the  liynm, 
till-  |)raycr,  llicliyinn,  (licsiTMii>n,a  jiraycr,  ahyiiin, 
and  till"  hicssinif ;  all  in  the  .Nc/.  I'crcis  loni;tic. 
'I'Ir'  jirinripal  pccnliarity  alxmt  tliu  services  was 
the  mode  of  delivering;  the  discourse.  When  Dr. 
Whitman  arose  and  aiinoiiiiccd  the  text,  the.  In- 
ilian  who  had  tmn  instnicled  on  the  ])rev'oiis 
iiii;lit,  rose  and  repealed  it  ;  and  as  the  address 
proceeded,  repeated  it  also  hy  sentence  or  ]iura. 
■.'lapli  till  it  was  linishcd.  'I'liis  is  the  cusloiii  of 
the  Skyiise  in  all  their  pnhlic  s|jeakin;;.  And  the 
henellt  rcsiiUin',f  I'roni  it  in  this  ease,  apparently 
was,  the  [rivini;-  the  doetrmcs  which  the  Doctor 
desire.l  to  incnicatc,  a  clearer  expression  in  the 
jiropcr  idiom  of  the  lan!;na;;e.  IJuriiifj  the  re- 
cess, the  children  were  asseiiililed  in  Salihalh 
School.  In  the  afternoon,  the  service  was  simi- 
lar to  that  of  the  moniini;.  Kvery  tliinrr  was 
conducted  with  much  solemnity.  After  wor- 
Blii|),  the  Indians  (rathcrcd  in  their  lod(res,  and 
conversed  tosr,,.ilicr  (toncerninj;  what  they  had 
heard.  If  donht  arose  as  to  a;,y  jioint,  il  wan 
solved  hy  the  instructed  ImUaii.  Thus  p.isse<l 
the  Salihath  amoni;  the  Skyiise.  The  day  itself 
was  one  ol'  suhlimity  ;  that  day  on  which  the  re- 
ligious allections  of  the  race  go  up  to  their  source, 
the  iiieom|iichensiljle  origin  of  the  world. 

t)n  the  •-'IMli  1  hired  (rickie  to  take  me  to  the 
Dalles  ;  and,  .Mrs.  Whitman  having  tilled  my  <iacks 
with  hread,  corn-meal  anil  other  cdihles,  I  lashed 
my  packs  once  more  for  the  lower  (.'ohimhia. 

ClIAPTKH  VIII. 

r«fliiig  W'Mi  Frlf mill— Wall  iwnlla  Vallny— Fort  Wallmalla 
—.Mr,  Ptthihrui.— TiipCsluinhlii— Counlrv  clown  lisbankt 

—  What  was  Sfun  <il  Riirli  Kartb— Wood,  Fire  ind  WaliT— 
Daiazcr,  4ic.  Irnni  the  Ilnifjlib— Fdllini;  M  lunlain— iMorr.- 
in^  Jlyiiin  to  Hod — W. a iu*s  Causeway— A  View ot the  Fro- 
ZHii  Subliirt- — Soniewliat  ttf  Oiikip  ami  oilier  Mnitrrs — 
'Tuin  Tuni  Uriel'  an  I  appurU'iliince^— Dalle'* — Methodist 
Kpis  opal  Mi^sion  -Mr.  and  Mrs  Perkins— .Mr.  Lee- Mis- 
i.iim  rieiiiifBi— (lifiyptian  ryiaiiiids- Indian — 11  iw  Filly 
Iiidian^can'FitrlilOnr  Busloii— The  llrsuUiif  a  War— Uc- 
=CPiit  ol  the  Colmntiia  in  a  Canoe — A  Nif^lil  on  tin*  River 
— The  Poelry  of  uic  WllderneMi- The  Cascod''^- Pt.stiii;e 

—  Dr.  .Mcl.auiji.ln— Indian  Tomhs— Death— -V  I{«ce— The 
Uiver  and  lis  Banks— Ni^'hl  Airaiii— M'lUnH  Wasliinuiim 
and  JelVersou— Arrival— Fort  Vaucouver— British  Ho.'pi* 
lilily. 

SiHIi.  ',cft  the  kind  peopleof  the  mission,  at  ID 
o'clock,  li  r  I'ort  Wallawalla.  'I'lavi  led  13  miles; 
face  of  the  country  dry,  harrcn,  swelling  plains; 
not  an  acre  capahle  of  cultivation  :  soino  hunch 
grasp,  and  a  generous  supply  of  wild  wonnwo<id. 
I'lncampcd  on  the,  northern  hraneli  of  the  Walla- 
walla  Uivcr. 

t^ctoher  I.  .\t  10  o'clock,  to-day,  I  was  kind- 
ly  received  hy  .Mr.  Painhrun  at  Fort  Wallawalla. 
This  gentleman  is  a  half-pay  ulhcer  in  the  British 
army.  His  rank  in  the  Hudson  Hay  Company  is 
that  of  "  clerk  in  charge"  of  this  post.  He  is  of 
[•'rencli  extraction,  a  native  of  Canada.  I  hreak- 
fasted  with  him  and  his  family.  His  wife,  a  half- 
hreed  of  the  country,  has  a  immhor  of  heauliful 
children.     The   hreukfast   being  over,  Mr.  I'ain. 


I  hriin  invited  me  to  view  the   preinisco.     The  fort 
I  is  a  plank    stockade,   with  a  numher  of  hnildings 
i  within,  appropri.itcd  to  the  several  uses  of  a  store, 
j  hlacksmilh-shop,   dwellings,    &c.       It  has  a  has. 
:  tion  in    the  norlheast  corner,  inounlcd  with  can- 
I  noil.     The  eoimlry  around    .about  has  sometimes 
j  been  represented  as  fruitl'iil  and   beautiful.      I  am 
I  obliged  to  deny  so    foul  an   imputation    upon   tho 
I  fair  fame  of  dame  Naturi'.     It  is  an   ugly  desert  ; 
designed  to  be  such  ;   made   such,  and  is   such. — 
.\boiit  seven  miles  up  the    Wallawalla  River  arc 
two   or  three  acres  of  givjiind    feneed  with  brush, 
j  cajiable  of  bearing  an  inferior   species  of  Yankee 
pumpkin;  and  another   s|«)l,  somewhere,  of  the 
fourlli  of  an  acre,  capable  of  producing  any  thing 
I  that    grows  in  the  richest   kind    of  unmoistened 
;  simd.      I!ut   aside  fmiii  these  distiiigiiL«hed  e.xeep. 
;  tioiis,  the  vicinity  of  Fort   Wallawalla  is  a  desert. 
'J'liere  is,  indeed,    some   beauty  and  sulilimil y    in 
sight,  but  no  fertility.  The  wild  Coluinbia  sweeps 
aloi:g  under  its  northern  wall.     In    the   east,  roll 
,  up  to  heaven  dark  lofty  ridges  of  mountains  ;  in 
the  norlliwesi,  arc  the  ruins  of   extinct   and  terri- 
ble volcanic  action  ;  in    the    west,  a  half  mile,  is 
'  the  entrance  of  the  river  into  the   vast  chasm  of 
its  lower  course,  abutted  on  either  side  by  splen- 
didly castellated   rocks — a   magnificent  gateway 
for  its  floods. 
I      Hut  this  is  all.     DesPrt   describes  it  as  well  as 
'  il  docs  the  wastes  of  .\rabia.     I  tarried  only  two 
hours  with  the  hospitable  Mr.  I'anibrun.     But  as 
if  determined  that  1  should  remeinbcrthat  I  would 
I  have  been  a  welcome  guest  a  much  longer  titne, 
1  ho   put  Sfime  tea  and  sugar  and  bread   into  my 
!  packs,  and  kindly  expressed  regrets  that  our  mil- 
tual    achniralion   of    Napoleon    should   be    thus 
[  crowded   into  the  eliit-eliat  of  hours   instead   of 
weeks.     A  fine  eompanioiialile  fellow  ;  I  hope  he 
J  will  command  Fort  Wallawalla  as  long  as  Brit- 
ons occupy  it,  and  live  a  hundred  years  afterward. 
Traveled  down  the  south  bank  ol  the  Columbia 
,  along   the   watcr.side  ;  the  river  half  a  mile    in 
'.  width. with  a  deep  strong  current ;  water  very  clear. 
■\  \  short    distance  from    its   brink,  on  both  sides, 
rose  the  cml'.ankments  of  the  cliasm  it  has  worn 
'  for   itself,  m  the  lajisc  of  ;iges — a  noble  gorge, 
worthy  of  its  mighty  waters.     The  northern  one 
might   properly  be  termed  a   mountain  running 
continuou-.lv  alont;  the  water's  edge,  700  or  80(1 
'  feet  in  hijvt,  iihii  U,  shining,  and  sliriibiess.     The 
southern  o'k-    consisted  of  earthy  bluft's.  a'terimt- 
iiig  with   ^lifl's   fn.iu  100  to  100   feet  above   the 
stream,  tiirretcd  with  basaltic  shafts,  some  twen. 
ly   others    100   feel  alxive   the  subjacent  hills. — 
Passe, I  a  few  horst-s  traveling  industriously  from 
one  'visp  of  dry  bunch  grass  to  another.     Kvery 
thing    unnatural,    dry,    brown,    and    detolate. — 
C'limlM'd  the  bights  liear  sunset,  and  had  an  ex- 
tens,  ve  view  of  the  country  south  of  the  river.     It 
'  was  a  treclciis,  brown  expanse  of  (iearth,  vast  roll- 
:  ing  swells  of  sand  and  clay  too  dry  to  iH'arworm- 
wood.     No  inountaijis  seen  in  thai  direction.  On 
the  north  they  rose   precipitously   from  the  river, 
and   hid    from   view   the   country  beyond.      The 
Wallawalla  Indians  brought  un   drift-wood   and 
fresh  salmon,  lor   which  they  desired  "  shmoke," 
tobai'co. 

'i.  Continued  to  descend  the  river.  Karlyinthe 
day,  basalt  disappeared  from  the  blutls  ;  and  the 
country  north  and  isouth  opened  to  view  live  or 


84 


Travels  in  the  Cheat  Western  Prairies, 


ax  niilca  from  llii:  stream.  It  was  partially  cov- 
rrcd  with  dry  Imnrh  graiss;  (jrnups  of  Indian 
horsos  ocrasionally  appeared.  Hut  I  was  ini. 
pressed  witli  tlie  belief  thai  the  jonriieyinKH  from 
one  qiiic'  of  jrraRs  to  another,  and  from  these  to 
water,  were  sullieient  to  enfeeule  the  eoiislitutioM 
of  the  befit  horse  in  Chrislendoni.  The  wihl 
wornnvood,  of  "  blessed  memory,"  greeted  my 
eyes  and  nose,  wlicrever  its  Herayseould  find  sand 
to  nourish  them. 

During  the  day  1  w.is  jrratilied  with  tlu^  Hii;lit 
of  five  or  six  trees,  and  these  a  larife  species  of 
willow,  themselves  Hjnall  anil  Ih)W(uI  witliai;e; 
stones  and  rocks  more  or  less  fused.  .\  stroni; 
westerly  wind  hutl'tled  nie  ;  and  nnieli  of  the 
time  tilled  the  air  with  driltini;  sand.  W  f  en- 
eamped  at  the  water  side  about  thnc  o'cloeU.  I 
had  thus  a  tine  opportunity  of  aseendini;  the 
liights  to  view  the  sonthern  plain.  'I'he  slopas 
were  well  covered  with  i;rass,  and  s(,eiued  easy  of 
atieent ;  but  on  trial  proved  e.\trcmil3' lalNirious. 
1  however  climbed  slowly  and  patiently  the  long 
sweeps,  for  two  hours,  and  gaineil  nothing.  Nay, 
1  could  see  the  uohle  river,  like  a  l'>ng  line  of 
liipiid  fire  blazing  with  the  light  of  the  western 
Hun;  and  the  rusli  wigwams  of  the  Wnllawallas, 
dotting  the  sands  of  the  op]K)sile  shore  ;  and  the 
barren  bUiH's  and  rocks  beyond  them  )iiled  away 
into  space.  15ut  to  the  se.itli  my  vision  was 
hemmed  in  by  the  constantly  rising  swells.  No 
extensive  view  could  be  obtained  from  any  of  the 
bights.  The  sun  was  fast  sinking,  and  the  bills 
rose  as  I  advanced.  I  was  so  weary  that  I  ef)uld 
go  little  further.  But  taking  a.  careful  view  of 
the  peaks  which  would  guide  me  back  to  my 
camj),  I  determined  to  travel  on  till  it  should  be. 
come  too  dark  to  see  what  might  open  before  inc. 
I  eUmbcd  slowly  and  tediously  thi!  seemingly  end- 
less  Bwells,  lifluig  themselves  over  and  Injyond 
each  other  in  beautiful,  hut  to  my  wearied  limbs 
and  longing  eyes  in  most  vexatious  contimiity, 
till  the  sun  dipped  his  lower  rim  Ijcneath  the  hori- 
zon. A  volcano  hurst  the  hills,  thought  I ;  and 
on  I  trudged  with  the  Uttle  strength  tliat  a  large 
(piantity  of  vexation  gave  nic.  Fires  blister  your 
beautiful  brows,  1  half  ottered,  as  I  dragued  my- 
iu'lf  up  the  eiw»«  ning  ejumenee,  an<l  saw  the  pla- 
teau duclimng  in  im-gular  undulations  far  into 
the  southwest — a  stordc  waste,  clothed  in  the  glo. 
rics  of  the  last  niys  of  a  splendid  sunset.  The 
crests  of  the  distant  swells  were  fringed  with 
hunch  grass  ;  not  a  shrub  or  a  tn  e  on  all  the 
field  of  vision;  and  evidently  no  water  ncirer 
than  the  (^ilnmbia.  Those  cattle  which  arc,  in 
the  opinion  r)f  certain  travelers,  to  depasture  these 
plains  in  future  lime,  nuist  he  of  sound  wind  and 
limb  to  gather  food  and  water  the  sinie  day.  I 
found  myself  so  wearied  on  attaining  this  goal  of 
my  wishes,  that,  notwithstanding  the  laleiuss  of 
the  hour.  I  was  literally  compelled  to  seek  some 
rest  tvUirc  atlem])ting  to  descend.  I  therefore 
HCiitod  myself,  and  in  the  lu.\ury  of  re[H)se  per- 
iintud  darkness  to  commence  creeping  over  the 
landscape,  before  I  coidd  rouse  myself  to  the  ef. 
fort  of  moving.  And  w  hen  I  did  start,  my  style 
ol  locomotion  was  extremely  varied,  and  withal 
Rometinies  not  the  most  pleasa  U  to  everv  portion 
of  the  mortal  coil.  My  teel  w*  f.  i"  iintaqucnt- 
ly  twi.-e  or  thriee  the  length  of  tt«  d  measure  in 
advance  of  my  body.    But  the  rv-adcr  must  not 


suppose  that  this  eircmnstanee  diminished  my 
speed.  No,  I  continued  to  slide  down  the 
hills,  using  as  vehicles  the  small  ;;b:irp  stones  be. 
ueatli  me,  until  an  opportunity  olVered  to  put  my 
nether  e\lrriuili("s  uuiler  me  aguLii.  Once  I  bad 
nearly  plunged  headlong  from  a  iirecipicc  somi^ 
.'ill  led  high,  and  saved  )nyscll'  by  catching  a 
wormwood  bush  standing  within  three  feet  of  the 
brink,  rinally,  without  any  serious  mishap,  I 
arrived  in  camp,  so  completely  e.vbaiisteil,  that, 
without  tasting  food,  I  threw  myself  on  my  couch 
for  the  night. 

.'Id.  Thei^arlby  hlufi's  continued  to  bind  the 
chasm  of  the  riv'rr  till  mid  day,  when  biittri'SHes 
of  basalt  took  their  place.  A  little  bunch  grass 
grew  among  the  wild  wormwood.  Turki^ys, 
grouse,  and  :i  spedies  of  large  hare  frequently 
appeared  ;  many  ducks  in  the  stream.  For  three 
hours  before  sniisct  the  trail  was  rugged  and  pre- 
cipitous, often  overhanging  the  rivi'r,  and  so  nar 
row  that  a  mis-step  of  four  inches  would  have 
plunged  horse  and  rider  humlreds  k(  feet  into  the 
Iwiling  IliMid.  lint  as  Skyuse  horses  never  make 
such  (lisagreeable  mistakes,  we  rode  the  steeps  in 
safely.  Fncaniped  in  a  small  grove  id'  willows 
The  "river  along  the  day's  march  was  hemmed  in 
by  lofty  and  rugged"  mountains.  The  roek» 
showed  indubitable  evideneesol  ii  volcanic  origin. 
.\s  the  sun  went  down,  the  Wallawalla  village 
on  the  opposite  shore  san;:  a  hymn  in  their  own 
language,  to  a  tune  which  I  have  often  heard 
sung  in  Catholic,  churches,  before  the  image  of 
the  Virgin.  The  country  in  the  soulli,  as  seen 
from  the  bights,  was  broken  and  barren  ;  view 
limited  in  all  directions,  by  the  unevenness  of  the 
surface. 

•Itli.  -Vwakcncd  this  morning  by  ihe  fall  of  an 
hundred  tons  of  rock  from  the  face  of  the  moun- 
tain near  us.  The  earth  trembled  as  if  the  slum- 
bering  volcanoes  were  wrestling  in  its  bowels. 
We  were  brought  to  our  feet,  and  oiieued  and 
rubbed  our  eyes  with  every  mark  of  despatch. 
My  "  jioor  crane  "  and  his  hopeful  .son  condts- 
ceniled  to  appear  shocked  ;  an  event  in  an  In- 
dian's life  that  occurs  as  seldom  as  his  birth.  I 
had  stationed  myself  near  the  fallen  rocks  as  the 
sun's  first  rays  awoke  the  morning  hymn  of  the 
Indian  viir.ifi.  [I  was  a  sHiet  Wild  tune  that 
they  sung  to  (iod  among  the  dark  mountains  ol 
the  Columbia.  And  sweeter,  ])erhaps.  in  such  a 
])lace,  where  every  motion  of  the  heart  is  a  moni- 
tion that  one  is  alone,  and  every  thought  brings 
with  it  the  remembrance  that  the  social  affections 
are  separated  from  the  objects  of  their  fondness, 
and  where  every  moral  sensibility  is  chilled  by  a 
sense  of  desolation  and  danger,  calling  into  exer- 
cise the  resisting  and  extenninating  propensities, 
and  where  the  holy  memories  of  home  find  uo  re- 
."jionBC  but  in  some  loved  star  in  the  unchanging 
heavens.  In  such  a  i)laco  how  far  sweeter  than 
anything  beside  is  the  evidence  of  the  religious 
principle — the  first  teaching  of  a  mother's  lovo, 
rising  over  Ihe  wastes  of  nature  from  the  altar  of 
a  pure  heait^tbe  incen.se  of  love  going  up  to  the 
heaveidy  presence.  At  S  o'clock  wo  were  on 
route ;  at  9  o'clock  approached  the  bend  in  the 
river,  where  it  changes  from  a  southwest  to  a 
northwest  course.  .\t  this  place  the  clitT's  which 
overhang  the  southern  bank  presented  a  fine  eol- 
lection  of  basaltic  coluiuns.    Along  the  margin  of 


in  the  jRock'j  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Terrilory,  tfc. 


85 


the  rivfr  Iny  hillockB  of  Hroria",  piled  loprlhor  in 
iivrry  iinapiniiblc  form  of  confusion.  Among 
♦  hrivi  grew  connidrrnlilp  qnanlitiff  of  bnnch  grass,  I 
on  which  a  hand  of  Wallawalla  liorscs  w<r('  feed.  ' 
iiig.  Siind-hillH  on  the  opposite  shori;  ron-  KKIO 
feet  in  the  air.  Ifasall  occurred  at  iiilervals,  in  a 
more  or  li'tw  perfect  ntate  of  fonualioii,  till  the 
hour  of  noon,  wlien  Uic  trail  led  to  the  liahc  of  a 
ficricH  of  cohinniM  extending  Ihree-fourlliH  of  a  mile 
down  Ihf!  haitU.  These  were  more  perfectly 
formed  than  any  previously  seen.  They  swelled 
from  a  large  curve  of  the  mouiitaia  side,  like  the 
IwBlioilH  of  ancient  castles;  and  oik^  Beries  of  lofty 
columns  lowered  alK)ve  another,  till  the  last  was 
surmounted  hy  a  crowning  tower,  a  little  alK)vc 
the  level  of  the  plain  Ix'yon J.  And  their  penta- 
gonal lorin,  longiiiidinul  sections,  dark  shining 
Iracture,  and  iinmciiKe  mas-ses  strown  along  my 
way.  hetokened  me  if  not  in  the  very  im'sencc  of 
the  (Jianl's  t 'ausewny,  yet  on  a  B|HJt  where  the 
Hame  mighty  energies  had  exerted  themselves 
which  huildcd  that  rare,  heaulihil  wonder  of  the 
Kmerald  Isle.  The  river  very  tortuous,  and  shut 
Ml  hy  high  dykcH  of  hasall  and  sand  hills  the-  re- 
inaiiKlcr  of  the  day  ;  saw  three  small  rapids  in  the 
('oluinl)ia;  encamped  at  sunset;  l(X)  weary  to 
climl)  the  hiplils. 

r>lh.  Aros(^  at  hrcnk  of  day,  and  ordering  my 
guide  to  make  arrangements  for  starting  as  soon 
n»  I  should  rctuni,  I  ascended  the  iieighljoring 
lieights.  (irassy  undulating  plains  in  all  <lirec- 
tions  south  of  the  river.  Far  in  the  norllu'ast 
towered  the  frozen  i)eak  of  Mount  Washington,  a 
perfect  pyramid,  clothed  with  eternal  snow.s.  The 
view  in  the  north  was  heiimicd  in  hy  luoimtainH 
which  rose  higher  than  the  jilac.e  of  ohscrvation. 
On  descending,  my  guide  I'rikic  complained  of 
ill-heallli ;  and  assigned  that  circumstance  as  a 
rciison  why  he  shoidd  not  jiroeeed  with  nie  to  the 
Dalles.  I  was  much  vexed  with  him  at  the  lime, 
for  this  unseasonable  (Userlion,  and  hilicvcd  that 
the  real  inducement  to  his  course  was  the  danger 
to  he  ap|)rehcnded  from  the  Indians  at  the  Sliutes. 
Hut  I  uas  sorry  to  learn  from  Dr.  Whitman  af- 
terwards that  the  [Kior  fellow  was  actually  sick, 
and  that  he  sullen  il  imn'h  at  the  sand  hank  en- 
lamjnnent,  where  1  left  him.  After  paying  C'ri. 
kie  fur  Ins  l.nllihil  services  thus  far  along,  and 
giviii;;  him  lour  days'  provision  for  him.self  and 
Imy,  a  VV;dlawalla  Indian  who  had  encamped 
with  us  the  previous  m;_rhl,  'ook  charge  of  t'rikie's 
horses,  hearing  niyscll  and  jiacks,  and  led  the 
way  down  the  river.  The  "  \»n>r  crane  '"  was  an 
honest,  honoralile  man  ;  and  I  can  never  think  of 
all  his  kind  acts  to  me.  Ironi  the  time  I  met  him 
in  the  plains  heyond  the  Wallawalla  mission,  till 
I  left  liiiii  sick  on  the  hank  of  thi' Cohimhi.i.  with- 
out wishing  an  Mppdrtnmlv  to  tcsiifv  my  sense  of 
iii-i  moral  woiili  and  goodness  of  heart  in  some 
way  which  shall  yield  linn  a  suhslantial  rewar<l 
for  all  he  sulVered  in  my  service.  'l"wo  hour.';" 
ride  hrought  t'l  inv  ears  the  music  of  the  "turn 
Inmorler;"'  the  iTiilian-l'higlish  lor  the  "  thun- 
dering waters"  of  the  Shiites.  These  arc  the 
only  perpendicular  lalls  uf  the  »  oUmiliia,  in  its 
course  from  the  jimctiun  of  its  great  northern  and 
southern  hianelies.  to  the  ocean.  And  th<y  do 
indeed  thunder.  A  stratum  ol  hlack  rock  lorm- 
ing  till'  l)ed  of  the  river  aliove,  hy  preservuig  its 
horizoiitut  poititioii,  rincH  at   tlus  place  above  the 


n.atural  surface  of  the  slream,  and  forms  an  nb. 
rupt  precipice,  hanging  60  lift  in  bight  over 
the  bed  l)rlow.  The  river,  when  I  passed 
w««  unfortim.itcly  at  its  lowest  stage — still  the 
.Sliules  were  terribly  granil.  The  main  body  id" 
the  «Mler  swept  around  near  its  southern  bank, 
and  being  there  compressed  into  a  narrow  rough 
channi  1,  ehafid  its  angry  way  to  the  brink, 
where,  bending  a  massive  curve,  as  if  licHilalilig 
to  risk  the  leaji,  it  plunged  into  a  narmw  cavern 
tiO  feet  deep,  with  a  force  and  volume  which 
made  the  earth  tremble.  The  noise  was  prodi- 
gious, ileafcihng,  and  echoed  in  awful  tumult 
among  the  barren  mountains.  Further  towards 
the  other  .shore,  smaller  jets  were  rushing  from 
the  iinprisoni'd  rocks  which  elnslercd  near  the 
brow  of  the  elift",  into  other  caverns;  and  close 
under  the  north  hank,  and  farther  down  the 
stream,  thundered  another,  nearly  equal  in  gran- 
deur to  the  one  first  described. 

On  the  jiorlions  of  the  rocky  stratum  left  by 
the  ehathig  waters,  in  we.  ring  out  nnmcrouH 
channels  below  the  present  situation  of  thcShulcH, 
were  the  llag  huts  of  100  Wallawalla  fishermen. 
They  were  taking  salmon  with  nvm)\t  nets  and 
lione  iiointed  spears.  These  people  were  filthy 
and  naked.  Some  eat  by  fires  swallowing  roaiitcd 
salmon  ;  otin  rs  greasing;  themselves  witli  the  oil 
of  that  fish  ;  others  were  dressing  and  drying 
them  I  others  stood  down  on  the  projections  in  the 
chasms,  sweeping  their  nets  in  the  foaming  wa- 
ters ;  others,  mothers,  w  ere  devouring  the  vermin 
from  the  heads  of  their  children  ;  imtaiight,  un- 
elevated,  least  intelligent,  least  improvable  liiunan 
nature  1  It  was  not  deemed  safe  to  remain  long 
among  these  savages,  wlio  had  begun  to  examine 
my  packs  with  more  interest  than  strictly  honest 
intentions  towards  them  seeincd  to  require,  and  I 
took  to  the  trail  again  on  a  fast  trot.  Some  of 
them  endeavored  to  follow  on  loot,  demanding  a 
tribute  of  '■  Kinoke"  for  the  ]irivilege  of  jiassing 
their  dominions.  Ihit  having  none  at  hand  1 
PJishcd  on,  without  regarding  their  suit,  over  sand 
iiills,  beds  of  volcanic  stones,  and  hanging  de 
clivities,  till  rounding  a  basaltic  buttress,  1  came 
in  view  of  the  little  plain  on  the  senlh  western 
shore  of  the  Dalle?  The  "  Dalles,"  a  French 
term  for  "  llat  stones,"  is  applied  to  a  |)ortion  of 
the  river  here,  where,  hy  a  process  similar  to  that 
going  on  at  ^Niagara,  the  w.'tcrs  have  cut  chan- 
nels through  an  immense  slrjtnm  of  blaek  rock, 
over  which  they  used  to  iVdl  as  at  the  iShutes. — 
At  low  stages  these  arc  of  sufiicii  iit  capacity  to 
pa.'s  all  the  waters.  Hut  the  annual  ll<Mjds  over- 
How  the  •'  llat  stones,"  and  produce  a  lashing  an<l 
leaping,  and  whirling  of  waters,  too  grand  fortlie 
imagiudtion  to  conceive.  These  "  Dalh  s"  arc 
covcrcil  with  the  huts  of  the  (lieiiookH.  a  small 
band  ol  a  tribe  of  the  same  name,  which  iiiliab. 
its  the  b.inkii  of  Columbia  from  this  place  to  its 
moulh.  Tlii'v  llatten  their  heads  and  perforate 
the  .-.cptiim  ol  the  nose,  as  do  the  Wallawallas, 
Sky  use  and  iScz  Prrees. 

'I'he  depression  of  the  southern  embatlkment 
i>{  the  chasm  of  the  river  at  the  Dalles,  extends 
iS  mill  s  alonjr  the  stream,  and  from  a  h'if  mile 
to  a  mile  in  width.  It  is  broken  by  ledges  burst- 
ing through  the  surface,  and  in  parts  loaded  with 
iniincnBc  lioulders  of  detached  rocks.  Along  llie 
iiQrth.wcHteni  border   ore  groves  ot'  snmll  wliile 


Travels  in  the  Great  Wesitrn  Prairies, 


oaks;  and  on  llioliii;liIanilH'inllnt  (lircctlnn  aro  for. 
CBlH  of  pine,  Hpnic'caiuloIlK  ii'vrri;rriM'n«,  dotliiii;; 
thn  wIioIp  ciiiiiilry  wi-Blwnrd  lo  tin'  Piiowy  |piiiksof 
the  I'n  piHrnt'B  Hnniri-.  In  the  soiitliwrsi,  sproUrd 
willi  rlustrrs  nf  liiiricli  fjrassi,  is  an  open  rollin^r 
plain,  wliii.'li  slivli'liis  hcyoiid  lliu  rracli  of  vi«i()n. 
In  llic  north  rise  sha  .  iimnntains,  liiinlv  (dad 
witli  I'vcrfjrct'n  tri'OH  .  n'oiiijh  an  oprjnni;  anioni,' 
till'  peaks  (if  which,  apjM'arcd  the  Hliininj;  apex  of 
Fount  AdaniK.  In  thi-  northcasi  swccjis  away  in 
brown  barrcnncs!",  naked  ehlli<  and  siindy  wastes. 
I  had  taken  a  l)ird's-eye  view  of  thi'  l>alle»  and 
the  region  round  alioul,  when  my  IniMan  eried 
out  "  Lee  liouse."  And  there  it  was,  a  mission 
liouBc  of  the  American  1'.  K.  Methodist  Clmrch. 
jn  charge  of  Messrs.  Lee  and  I'erkins. 

I  spent  a  week  al  the  Dalles  mission,  ealiui; 
salmon  and  prowini;  f.it  ;  an  event  tliat  hud  not 
lately  occurred  in  the  ri'pul)lie  of  the  mcndiers  of 
my  mortal  eoidederaey. 

Tlic  liuiUlinirs  of  the  mission,  .'ire  a  (Uvelliiifj- 
houHC,  a  house  for  worshi]/  and  for  seiiool  purposes, 
and  a  wcushop,  &.e.  The  first  is  a  lof;  strneturt; 
31)  hy  UO  feet,  one  and  a  half  stories  hij,'h.  shimrle 
roof,  and  lloors  made  id  ]ilank  cut  with  a  whip 
Haw  from  th('  jiiues  of  the  hills.  'I'he  lower  storv 
is  divi(Utd  into  two  rooms — the  one  a  ilininjj.room, 
tliP  other  the  family  apartment  of  >Ir.  Perkins  and 
lady.  These  are  lined  overhca<l  and  al  the  sides 
witli  heautifnl  rush  mats  mannfaetnred  liy  the  In. 
diaiis.  The  upper  slory  is  partitiimed  into  six  dor. 
mitorirs,  and  a  school. room  for  Indian  children  ; 
all  neatly  lined  with  jnats.  Un<lerneatli  is  -.m  ex. 
cellent  cellar.  The  huildinjj  desifjued  for  a  house 
of  worship,  was  beinij  huilt  when  I  arrived.  Its 
architecture  is  a  cmiosity.  The  frame  is  made  in 
the  usual  form,  save  that  instead  of  four  main 
posts  at  the  corners,  and  others  at  considerahle 
distiuices,  for  the  support  of  lateral  [;irders,  there 
were  eleven  on  each  side,  and  six  on  each  end,  hi', 
bide  the  corner  posts — all  eipial  in  size  and  leuijth. 
Uetwcen  these  hdlels  of  wood  were  driven  trans. 
ver6ely,on  which  as  lalhiuf,',  mortar  made  of  clay 
sand  and  straw  was  laid  to  a  level  with  llicir  ex. 
teriorand  interior  faces.  There  is  so  little  fallini,' 
wealher  here,  that  this  mode  of  building  was  con- 
sidered sulViciently  substantial. 

Messrs.  Lee  and  I'erkins  were  formerly  connee. 
ted  with  the  mission  on  the  Willamette.  Kijrli. 
teen  months  before  I  had  the  hap])iness  of  enjov- 
injT  their  hospitality,  they  came  to  Miis  spot  with 
axes  on  their  siioulders,  felled  trees,  plou!;heil, 
fenced,  and  planted  20  acres  of  land  wilh  their 
own  hands,  and  creeled  these  habitations  of  civi- 
ligation  and  ehrisliauily  on  the  bo.som  of  the  howl, 
ini;  wilderness.  'J'hcir  iiremiscs  are  situated  on 
olrvated  ground,  al)out  a  mile  southwest  from  the 
river.  Innnc'dnlcly  back  is  u  ^rrove  of  suiall 
v.'hitc  oaks  and  yellow  pines:  a  liltle  north,  is  a 
sweet  spring  bnrstuijr  from  a  ledireof  rocks  whirh 
supplies  water  for  house  use,  and  moistens  aliont 
an  acre  of  rich  soil.  About  a  mile  to  the  south, 
are  two  or  three  hundred  ;icres  of  tine  land,  with 
grove.^  of  oaks  around,  and  an  ab\inilan  ,  snjiply 
of  excellent  water.  Here  it  was  the  intention  of 
the  mission  to  open  a  farm  under  the  care  of  a 
layman  from  the  .States.  A  mile  and  a  Inilf  lo  the 
north,  is  a  tract  of  about  two  hundred  aces.  su.s. 
ceptibic  of  beiuji  ))lculifully  irrigated  by  a  number 
of  large  btreaiiia  that  pour  down  upon  it  licnn  the 


western  mountains.  Here,  too,  (hoy  inieinled  lo 
locate  laymen  to  open  farms,  ami  exirael  from  the 
idle  earth  the  means  of  feeding  themselvc*,  the 
Indians,  and  the  way-worn  while  m:m  from  tlie 
bunit  soliludes  of  the  mouulains.  .No  location, 
not  even  the  sacred  precincis  of  St.  licinard,  on 
the  snows  of  the  Alps,  could  be  heller  chosen  for 
the  operations  of  a  holy  beuevoleuec.  'I'he  In- 
dians from  many  ipiarlers  Hock  lo  the  Dalles  and 
Ihe  .Shnlcs  m  thi'  spring,  and  aidumn,  and  winter 
to  purchase  salmon;  the  conuncrcial  movements 
liclwccn  Ihe  Stales  and  the  I'acilic,  will  passthrir 
door  ;  and  therein  allcr  days,  the  slurilv  emigrants 
from  the  Slates  will  slop,  as  did  the  pilgrims  on 
riyiiionlh  rock,  lo  give  grateful  praise  to  lliin 
who  stood  forlli  in  Iheiraid,  not  indeed  while  strng. 
glingon  the  foamy  billow,  but  on  the  burning 
plain  and  Ihe  icy  elil!',  and  in  the  deadly  turmoil 
of  Indian  bailies  on  the  way,  and  seek  food  and 
rest  for  their  emaciated  frames,  before  entering  the 

1  woody  glens  and  llowering  evergliules  of  I/iwer 
Oregon. 

-V  saw.mill,  a  grist-mill,  and  other  maehiiiery 
necessary  to  eiirry  out  a  liberid  plan  of  operations, 
arc  in  eonlemjilalioii.  'i'he  fruit  of  Ihe  o;ik,  it  is 
supposed,  will  su|(porl  1,(111(1  hogs  from  ihe  middle 
of  August  to  the  midillc  of  April,  The  products 
of  Ihe  arable  V'"'     will  siiHice  lo  make  llial  num. 

'  her  into  marlieiaoie  jiork.  And  as  the  grass  and 
other   vegetation    grow   there  during  the  winter 

I  months,  twenty-live  or  Ihirly  sipiare  miles  of  pas- 
turage around  about,  will  enable  them  lo  raise,  at 
a  trilling  expense,  immense  numbers  of  sheep, 
horses  and  cattle.  I''ive  acres  of  ground  culti- 
vated  in  If^^til,  produced  'J.')  bushels  of  the  small 
grains,  7,">  bushels  of  potatoes,  and  considerable 
ipiautilies  of  other  vegelables.  This  was  an  ex. 
perimeiit  only  eu  soil  not  irrigated.  (Miillemen 
siip|iose  it  capable  of  producing  double  that 
amount,  if  irrigated.  The  .season,  too,  was  unu. 
sually  dry. 

Around  about  Ihe  mission  are  clusters  of  friable 

I  sandstone  rocks  of  remarkable,  form.  Their 
bight  varies  from  10  to  30  feel;  their  basilar  di. 
amcters  from  3  lo  10  feel  ;  their  shajic  generally 
resembles  that  of  Ihe  obelisk.  These,  I.")  or  UO 
in  number,  slandiiig  among  the  oaks  and  pines, 
often  in  cluslers,  and  sometimes  solitary,  give  u 
slrange  interest  of  antiipiily  to  the  sjiot.  .\nd 
this  illu>icm  is  increased  by  a  rock  of  anolhcr 
form,  an  immense  boulder  resting  upon  a  short, 
sk'iider  pedestal,  and  strikingly  resembling  the 
Lgyptian  .'ipliyiix.  The  Indian  tradition  in  re. 
gard  to  Ihem  is,  that  they  were  formerly  men, 
who,  fer  some  sin  against  the  (ileal  Spirit,  were 
changed  lo  sloiic 

!  ^  At  the  Dalles  is  the  upper  village  of  the  ("he- 
nooks.  .Vt  the  .Sliiites,  live  miles  .iImivc,  is  the 
lower  village   of  the   W'allawallas.      Accordingly 

I  one  of  the  missionaries,  Mr.  Lee,  learns  the  Che- 
nook  language,  and  Ihe  other.  .Air.  I'erkins,  the 
Wallawalla.     And  llicir  custom  is  lo  repair,  ou 

'  .'^abbath  days,  each  to  his  own   people,  and  teach 

i  them  the  Cliristian  religion.     Tlie  I'lienooks  Hat. 

(ten  their  heads  more,  and  arc  more  stupid  than 

i  any  other  tribe  on  the  Columbia,     There  was  one 

:  among  the  Dalles  bami,  who,  it  was  said,  resisted 
so  iibstinalcly  the  kind  elliirts  of  bis  parents  lo 
crush  his   skull  iiilo  the    aristocratic  shape,  that 

I  they  abandoned  liuu  lo  the  cuic  of  iiulure  in  this 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Terrilor;/,  ^. 


67 


regard;  and  miirli  to  tlin  Hcnndnl  of  IiIh  fnniilj*, 
hiH  liriid  (jrcw  in  tlio  imliiral  loriii.  1  Haw  liini 
every  (lay  while  I  l-.irrii'd  llicrc.  Ho  wnn  t\'\. 
dt'iitly  Ihc  most  intcUignit  nno  of  the  hand.  His 
name  iB  UobIou  ;  ho  eallcd,  hctauw.  Ilii  lorm  of 
his  head  rcwmhlrH  that  of  AmcricaiiH,  ivImjmi  ihr 
JndiunH  eull  •'  llontoti,"  in  order  lo  diHtin(fiiisli 
tlicm  from  "  Kinjj  (irorjje'a  nun," — the  HikIh  n 
Hay  C'oini)any  (jcnlleiniri.  HoHlon,  nllhoii(;li  of 
nic'un  origin,  hun,  on  aiconnt  of  liin  8U|i(.rior  cn- 
fTjiy  and  inttlli^jcncc,  hucume  the  war  chief  of 
th('|UulU'H. 

On  the  inorninf;  of  the  Mill,  F  overhauled  my 
hajffrafro  preparalory  to  deHcendinjj  the  river.  In 
doinjf  Ko,  I  waB  miieli  vexed  to  lind  that  the  In- 
dians ha<l,  in  some  manner,  drawn  my  sa<ldle  to 
the  window  of  the  work-shop  in  which  it  was 
depoHiled,  and  stripped  it  of  Btirrn|is,  Blirru|). 
Htraps,  surcin(;le,  (rirths,  and  crnpper.  'I'lii  y  had 
also  stolen  my  bridle.  'I'he  loss  of  these  arlieles 
in  a  region  where th(^  like  eoidd  iiol.  he  piinhuHed 
— articles  .so  necessary  lo  me  in  earryin;;  out  my 
<leBip;nH  of  travel  inn  over  the  lower  eonntry, 
roused  in  niethe  hitterent  determination  to  reijaln 
I  hem  at  all  ha/.anlH.  And  without  relleetinj;  for 
a  moment  nj>on  thedisjiarilv  of  mnnhershetwecn 
my  Mingle  yelf  and  10  or  iM)  ahle.hodied  Indians, 
1  armed  myself  eom])lelely,  and  marched  my 
solitary  hattalion  lo  the  camp  of  the  principal 
chief,  and  entered  il.  lie  was  away.  I  ex- 
plained lo  some  persona  there  by  Hijfns  and  a  few 
words,  the  ohjcet  of  my  search,  and  inarched  my 
army  to  an  elevalcd  position  and  halted.  I  had 
been  atationed  but  a  short  lime,  when  the  Indians 
began  to  collect  in  their  chiefs  lodge,  and  whis. 
per  earnestly.  Ten  minutes  tiassed  thus,  and  In- 
dians were  constantly  arriving  and  euleriint.  I 
was  Hupported  in  the  rear  by  a  lusty  oak,  and  so 
far  as  I  remendier,  was  ready  lo  exclaim  with 
Ihc  renowned  antagonist  of  Roderick  Ohn, 

"  Come  oaa,  come  all,"  Si.(  ; 
but  never  having  been  a  hero  before  or  since,  I 
uni  not  (piite  certain  that  I  thought  any  such 
tiling.  i\ly  wrath,  however,  was  extreme.  To 
be  robbed  for  the  first  time  by  Indians,  and  that 
by  Buch  cowardly  wretches  as  these  Chcnooks 
were — the  tiltliiest  scales  of  linman  nature  ;  and 
robbed  too  of  my  moans  of  <xploring  (Jrcgon, 
when  on  the  very  threshold  of  the  most  charniing 
part  of  it,  was  an  ignominy  and  an  inconven. 
icnce  wortli  a  battle  lo  remove.  .Inst  at  the  mo- 
ment of  this  lofty  conclusion,  3H  or  10  Indians 
rushed  around  me ;  eight  or  ten  loaded  muskets 
were  leveled  at  my  chest,  within  ten  feet  of  me, 
and  the  old  chief  stood  within  live  feet  with  a 
duelling  pistol  loaded,  cocked,  and  pf)inled  at  my 
heart.  While  this  niovcmcnl  was  being  made,  1 
brought  my  ride  lo  bear  up"n  the  old  cliiei's  vital 
organs.  Thus  both  armies  stood  for  the  space  of 
five  minutes,  without  the  movement  of  tongue  or 
muscle.  Then  one  of  the  brave,*  intimated  that 
it  was  "not  good"  for  mc  to  be  out  with  arms; 
and  that  I  must  immediately  accommodate  my- 
self within  doors.  Hut  to  this  proposition  the 
bravery  of  my  army  woiMd  not  sidimil.  1  accor- 
dingly informed  liiiii  io  that  ed'ect.  Whereupon 
the  opposing  army  n  <  nt  into  a  furious  rage.  At 
this  juncture  of  alVairs,  Mr.  Lee  came  iiji,  and 
acted  as  inlcrpreter.  He  inquired  into  the  difli- 
culty,  and  was  told  that  the  "  whole   Clienook 


tribe  was  threatened  with  invamon,  and  nil  the 
horrors  of  a  gi  ueral  war,  ind  on  what  account 
Ihcy  knew  not.''  Tlie  commander  rif  my  army 
reported  that  they  had  ri'libcd  him,  and  deserved 
such  treatment ;  ami  Ih.il  he  had  taken  arms  to 
annihilate  the  tribe,  uiiIcbs  they  restored  to  him 
what  they  had  stolen.  I  was  then  told  that 
"  it  was  not  good  for  me  to  appear  in  arms,  that 
il  was  good  lor  me  lo  go  into  the  linuse."  To 
this,  iiiy  army  with  one  voice  replii d,  "  nay, 
never,  nevir  leave  the  gromul  or  111,'  Chcnooks 
alive,  tribe  or  cliii  f,  if  llie  stolen  properly  be  not 
restored;"  and  wheeling  my  baltiliop,  drove  liiil 
cine  Hank  and  then  the  ollnr  of  the  opposing 
liosts,  Till  viirds  into  the  deplli"  of  the  forests. — 
During  this  movemenl,  worthy  of  the  best  days 
of  .Spartan  valor,  the  old  chief  stood  amazed  to 
sec  his  followers  with  guns  loaded  and  cocked, 
lice  before  such  infrrioi  numbers,  .\fler  cll'ect- 
ing  the  eom|ilcte  route  of  llu!  opposing  infantry, 
the  army  under  my  command  took  up  the  old 
position  without  the  loss  of  a  single  man.  But 
the  old  chief  was  still  there  iis  dogged  and  sullen 
as  Indian  ever  was.  (.>n  approaching  him,  he 
presented  his  pistol  again  near  my  ehcBt,  where- 
upon  my  rilli'  was  instanlly  in  a  jiosilion  to  r<'a<'li 
his.  And  thus  the  renowned  leaders  of  Ihcfc 
mighty  Hosts  stood  for  the  space  of  an  hour,  with- 
out bioodshed.  Perhaps  tiie,  likc>  of  that  chief 
was  never  seen  ;  such  unbh'nching  coolness — ex- 
cepting always  the  heat  which  was  thrown  olt'  in 
a  healllifid  and  profuse  pers])iration — and  such 
perfect  undaimlediu  ss,  e.vf'cpt  an  imi)li'aBant 
knocking  of  the  knees  together,  produced  proba- 
Illy  by  the  anticipaled  blasts  of  IJeecmber.  Hut 
wiiile  these  exhibitions  of  valor  were  being  en- 
acted,  one  stirrup  was  thrown  at  my  feet,  and 
then  the  other,  and  then  the  straps,  the  crupjicr, 
&c.  \c.,  until  all  the  most  valuable  articles  lost, 
were  piled  before  me.  The  compicst  was  com. 
picte,  and  will  doubtless  shed  inunortal  lustre 
upon  the  gallant  band,  who,  in  the  heart  of  the 
wilderness,  dared  to  assert  and  maintain,  against 
the  encroachmenls  of  a  nunierous  and  weil-dia. 
cipiined  foe,  the  "elite"  of  the  C'licnixik  army,  the 
rights  and  high  jirerogative  of  brave  freemen  and 
soldiers.  The  nimiber  of  killed  and  wounded  of  the 
enemy  had  not  been  ascertained,  when  the  troops 
under  my  coimnand  departed  for  the  lower  country. 

In  the  evening  which  succeeded  this  day  of 
carnag<',  the  old  chief  assembled  his  surviving  fol- 
lowers,  and  made  war  speeches  untd  midnight. — 
His  wrath  was  inimeasurable.  On  the  following 
morning,  Ihc  Indians  in  thecmploy  of  theniisBion 
left  their  work. 

Almut  Id  o'clock  one  of  tlic  tribe  ap|x:arcd  with 
a  pack-horse  lo  convey  Mr.  Lee's  and  my  own 
packs  to  the  water  side.  The  old  chief  also  ap- 
jicared,  and  bade  him  desist.  He  stood  armed  be- 
fore the  house  an  hour,  'making  many  threats 
against  the  Hostons,  individually  and  collectively  ; 
and  finally  retired.  As  soon  as  he  had  entered 
his  lodge,  the  horse  of  his  disobedient  subject  was 
loaded,  and  rushed  to  the  river.  An  efi'ort  was 
made  lojgct  oarsmen  for  our  canoe,  but  the  old 
hero  of  a  legion  oi  devils  told  them  "  the  high  Hos- 
ton  woidd  kill  them  all,  and  that  they  must  not 
go  with  liiiii."  Mr.  Lee,  however,  did  not  dcs- 
(lair.  We  followed  the  baggajre  towards  the  river. 
W  hen  within  a  quarter  of  a  inilc  of  it,  two  Ainc- 


88 


Traveli  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


ftbanSi  nioiiibriH  nf  Ricliiinlwin'R  p.irty,  Mr.  Ijti 
and  nn  liidiin  or  two,  llinl  tlir  olil  I'liirl'  lind  not 
Micrrrdcd  in  iViiililr'niiiir,  |(H)k  iIk^  raiiop  from  llic' 
IiiihIick,  iiiid  iMirr  il  liillir  ri\tT  on  lluir  HlioiildcrM. 
'I'll!  iiilivrs  wcrr  Htiiljorird  licyoiid  rillcdliol  ii|iom 
Ilic  rocliB  on  rillirr  nldc  ol'  tin'  wi'v.  Iiowk  loid  nr- 
niw'H,  iind  ;riii>s  lit  liaiid.  Iildiilii  llonloii  UaH  in 
••ojMiniind.  Ili^  Htooil  on  (he  lollirHl  rock  (iriiid. 
inu  his  Itclh,  iind  (;rowlin}f  lilir  a  lilood-lioinid, 
"  Kodtoiis  iiL'li ; "  iiiiil  H|iriM!;iiii;  ii|pon  liiH  Ihiw, 
ilrovi'  luH  iirroHH  into  Ilic  (rrmmd  willi  dctiioniuc 
inadnrHs.  1  Hlopjird,  iiiut  dri'W  my  rillc  Ici  my 
liiri',  wlicroiijHiii  llicrc  uMK  a  grand  rrlrrat  licliind 
Ihc  rockn.  Aly  army  marched  nlowly  and  niajcH- ' 
tioally  oii,aH  hccamc  thi'  ilijrnilvol  vcl<'rim  viclorH. 
The  women  and  children  tlr<l  I'roni  the  wiffwanm 
hy  thi'  way  1  and  the  lenr  of  the  annihilation  of 
(he  whole  Irihe  only  alialod  when  my  wrath  wan, 
to  liieir  nnderKlandmif,  appeased  liy  the  inlerfe- 
reiiec  of  Mr.  Iac.  'I'lniH  Ihetrilic  was  waved  from 
my  venjrrancc — llu'  whole  iimnher,  llfty  or  »ixty 
HlonI  HavapcH,  were  waved!  An  instanei!  of  ele- 
niency.  a  parallel  to  which  will  Hcarcely  he  found 
in  the  hislory  of  past  ai^cR. 

Iteini;  convinced  at  last,  that  my  inlenlionH  to. 
ward  them  had  liecomc  more  paeiCic,  six  oarsmen, 
u  Iniwsman.  and  iitcerhman  were  readily  en};a(rc(l 
hy  Mr.  Lie,  andhc  Bhov<(l  oil'  from  that  memora- 
hie  haltle.gromid  on  a  voyajro  to  the  Willamette. 
'J'hia  hand  of  Indians  have  In  en  notorious  thievcH 
ever  since  Ihry  have  liceii  known  to  the  whiles. 
Their  meanne.ss  has  heen  eqnally  well  known. — 
Dislilule  of  every  manly  and  moral  virtue,  they 
and  llieir  fathers  havt^  linni;  around  the  Dalles, 
«'ntcn  Salmon,  anil  rotted  in  idleness  and  vice  ; 
active  only  in  mischi(  f,  and  honest  only  in  their 
eronehin};  cowardice  towards  those  lluy  suppose 
alile  to  punish  their  villainy.  There  is  some  very  ; 
curious  philosophy  amou'^  them  :  as  for  example,' 
they  helicve  human  existence  to  he  indestruetlhle 
hy  the  laws  of  nature  ;  and  never  diseased,  uidess 
made  s<i  hy  th(^  Medicin  men  or  conjurers,  who 
are  helicved  to  entir  into  the  system  in  an  unseen 
inanntr,  and  pull  at  tlu^  vitals.  They  also  hold 
that  one  i\le(liein  man  can  cast  out  another. —  \ 
Aceordiuffly  when  one  of  them  is  called  to  a 
])alient,  and  does  not  suc-eecil  in  reslorintj  him  to 
lieallh,  he  is  hi  lieved  to  he  accessory  to  his  death, 
and  is  punished  as  such  hy  the  relatives  of  the ' 
deceased.  ! 

Their  mode  of  treating  patientR  is  to  tliriiBt  tlicni 
into  a  sweat  oven,  and  Ihence  reiking  with  per.' 
spiralicm  into  the  cohl  .streams.  After  this,  they 
are  sirelcheil  out  al  len;^lh  on  the  jrronnd,  wrapped 
very  warndy,  and  kneailed  and  rolled  and  rnlilied 
\\' it h  great  sevirily.  'I'he  al)dom<  11  is  violently 
pressed  down  to  the  spine,  and  llie  forehead 
jiressed  with  the  mighl  of  the  operalor  ;  Ihc  arms 
and  limbs  pinched  and  rulihrd,  rollcii  iiud  hruised. 
iMeaowhile  the  conjuror  is  ntlering  most  beastly 
noises.  As  might  be  sujiposed,  palienis  hdioriiig 
nnder  the  febrile  diseases  are  sihiii  destroyed.  1]\ 
order,  lio.vever,  to  keep  nji  their  inlluence  among 
the  pcop!.\  the  conjurors  of  a  trilx'.  male  and  le. 
male,  have  eabalaslio  dances.  After  the  darkness 
of  night  sets  in,  they  gather  together  in  a  wigwam, 
build  a  large  lire  in  the  centre,  spread  the  lltxir  with 
elk  skins,  set  up  on  end  a  wide  cedar  board,  und 
suspend  near  il  a  stick  of  wood  in  a.  horizontal 
jwsition.     An   individual   sciics  the   end  of  the 


■I  Stic 


k,  nwingR  tlie  other  end  njrainiit  tlic  i-rdnr 
Uiard,  mill  thus  hc,it«  noisy  tiinr  to  a  hiill  moro 
noisy  chant.  The  dance  is  comrneneed  Bometinirs 
by  a  man  alone,  and  often  by  n  man  and  woman. 
.•\riil  various  and  sir.inge  are  Ihe  bodily  eonlor- 
lions  of  Ihe  perfoniurs.  They  jump  up  and  down, 
and  swing  Iheir  arms  with  more  and  more  vio. 
lenec  as  the  noise  of  Ihe  singing  and  Ibumpillg 
aecoinpamment  iiK'reases,  and  yelp,  and  froth  at 
Ihe  mouth,  till  the  musician  winds  up  with  tlio 
woril  "  iiali  " — !i  long  strong  gutleral  gruni  ;  or 
until  some  oni^  of  Ihe  dancers  falls  apparently 
dead.  When  the  laller  is  the  case,  oni- of  the 
number  walks  around  Ihc  prostrate  individual, 
and  calls  his  or  her  name  lou<lly  nt  each  ear,  at 
IIk'  nose,  lingers,  and  iocs.  After  this  eerfinony, 
the  Bujiposed  dead  shudders  greatly,  and  comeKlo 
lile.  And  thus  they  continue  to  sing,  and  thump, 
and  dance,  and  die,  and  come  to  life  Ihrongh  Ihc 
night.  They  aii'  said  to  he  very  expert  at  sleight 
of  hand. 

The  Chenooks,  likiuill  oilier  Indians,  believe  in 
exisli'iice  ali(  r  dialh  ;  but  Iheir  viiws  of  Ihc  con- 
ditions of  that  exislenee,  1  lonld  not  learii.  The 
conjurors  teach  Iheni  that  lliey  themselves  shall 
be  able  to  visit  their  tribe  alter  Ihe  iKidy  shall 
have  decayed;  and  when  approaching  Ihc  end  of 
their  days,  inform  the  people  in  what  shape  they 
will  manifest  tliemse^lve.  Some  elioosi>  a  horse, 
others  a  deer,  others  an  elk,  Slc,  und  when  they 
die,  the  image  of  their  transmigrated  state  in 
erected  over  their  remains. 

The  reader  ia  desired  to  consider  Mr.  Lee  and 
myself  gliding,  arrow.like,  down  the  deep  clear 
t'olumbia,  at  two  o'clock  in  the  aflernoon  of 
Ihe  loth,  and  to  interest  hiniKelf  in  the  liold 
mountain  embankments  dollied  with  the  deep, 
living  green  of  lofty  pine  and  lir  forests,  while  i 
revert  to  the  kind  hospitalities  i>(  the  Dalles  mis. 
sion.  Yet  how  entirely  impossible  it  is,  to  relali^ 
all  that  one  enjoys  ii.  every  muscle  of  the  body, 
every  nerve  and  sense,  and  every  aU'eetion  of  the 
spirit  when  he  tlccs  from  the  liarilBliii)s  and  loneli- 
ness of  deserts  to  the  comforts  of  a  bed,  a  chair, 
and  a  table,  and  lh<'  holy  sympathy  of  hearlK 
moulded  and  controlcd  by  the  higher  senliments. 
I  had  taken  leave  of  Mr.  ami  Mrs.  Perkins,  wilh 
Ihe  feelings  that  one  experiences  in  eivili/ed  lands, 
when  leaving  long  tried  and  congenial  friends. — 
TIk!  good  man  urged  me  to  return  and  explore 
with  him,  during  the  rainy  season  in  Ihe  lower 
country,  some  extensive  and  bi  autiful  praini'>, 
which  the  Indians  say  lie  sixty  or  seventy  uilcM 
in  Ihe  north,  on  l\w  east  side  of  the  Presi.-I  iit'i) 
range  ;  and  .Mrs.  I',  kindly  projiosed  to  web  Uiie 
my  retnrii  for  that  object  wilh  a  splendid  stu  )! 
buckskin,  to  he  used  in  my  journeyings. 

Hut  1  must  leave  my  friemls,  to  inlrodiiee  the 
reader  to  the  "  Island  of  the  lonibs."  .Mr.  Lee 
ixiintcd  to  it,  as  the  tops  id"  the  cedar  Uiard  houses 
of  Ihe  dead  peered  over  the  hillocks  of  sand  and 
rock  among  w/iicli  they  stood.  We  moored  our 
canoe  on  the  western  side,  and  climbed  up  a  pre- 
cipice of  black  shining  rocks  iiUO  feel  ;  and  wind- 
ing among  drifts  of  sand  the  distance  of  100  yards, 
came  to  the  tombs.  They  consisted  of  boxes  10 
or  1:^  feet  square  on  the  ground,  W  or  10  high, 
made  of  cedar  boards  fastened  to  a  rough  frame, 
in  an  upright  jiosition  at  the  sides,  and  hori/on- 
tally  over   the   top.     <Jii  thein  iuid  about  lliein 


in  the  Rocky  M»unluins,  the  Oregon  Territory,  ^v. 


wow  th«  cooking  (itrniiilH  nnd  otiipr  pemonnl 
properly  of  tlic  (Icccii^rd.  Williiii  wcrr  llio  diiid 
bodies,  \vr:if)pod  in  nimiy  tliirkiii«H<«  ol'  dcrr  nnd 
flk  nkinn,  tiijlilly  InHlud  willi  Iciillicr  llinncB  nnd 
liiid  in  n  |iilr  with  their  hciidn  to  thr  r;isl.  I'n. 
dcrncnth  Ihi-  undrniyrrl  lindirs  were  niiiny  bonis 
from  which  the  flidh  ami  wrappings  Iwid  IHllon  :  in 
Home  iiiKtiinrrH  ii  iiMinhcrof  w;i!{oii  loads.  Tlircr 
or  four  ol'  the  tondis  had  };oni'  to  rninH;  and  the 
BkidlH  iind  other  hones  lay  strewn  on  the  i;ronnd. 
The  sknlls  were  all  tliitteni/d.  I  picked  up  one 
with  the  intention  of  hrinjfirii;  it  to  the  Slales. 
Dnt  lis  Mr.  Ii,  a.ssured  tne  that  the  hii;h  venera. 
tion  of  the  livin;;  for  the  deail  would  make  the 
nllenipl  very  dan({iron»,  I  rchiolanlly  returned  it 
to  its  reytinj;  place. 

\V>  i;li(l<'d  merrily  down  the  river  till  snimet, 
ojiil  landi'il  on  the  northern  shore  to  snp.  The 
river  hail  varied  from  one  to  one  and  a  half  miles 
in  width,  with  rather  a  Blui{(,'isli  current;  w.iter 
clear,  ei«)l,  and  very  deep.  Various  kinds  of 
ducks,  ilivrrB,  &.C.  were  U|«)n  its  beautiful  surface, 
'i'he  hair  hiuI  was  alinndanl.  The  moimtainH 
rose  nbrnptly  on  either  side  from  .'iOO  to  li.OIIII  feet, 
in  sweepinjj  hiijlits,  clail  with  evirj;recn  trees. 
ISomi?  few  small  oaks  (;rew  in  the  nooks  by  the 
waterside.  .Vmonjr  these  were  Indian  wijfWiuns, 
constructed  of  boards  split  from  the  rod  cedar  on 
the  mountains.  I  entered  soiiie  of  them.  They 
were  filthy  in  the  extreme;  lleas  und  other  vit. 
inin  snlBciently  nbimdaril.  In  one  of  them  was 
n  sick  man.  A  withered  old  female  was  kneading 
and  |)inchinif  the  devil  out  of  him.  He  was 
laborin({  under  a  bilious  fever.  But  as  a  "  Medi- 
cin  uuui  "  was  i)idlui;^  at  his  gall,  it  was  neces. 
miry  to  expel  him ;  and  the  old  Im^  pressed  his 
head,  bruised  his  abdomen,  Sir.  with  the  fury  and 
groauiiip;  of  a  bedlamite. 

Xot  an  acre  of  arable  land  a))pcarcd  along  tlic 
shores.  The  Indians  subsist  on  fish,  and  acorns 
of  the  white  oak.  The  former  they  eat  fresh 
durinij  the  summer;  but  their  winter  stores  they  drv 
and  preserve  in  the  followin;;  manner  :  The  spme  of 
the  fish  heinij  taken  out,  and  thefiesh  beinjj slashed 
into  checks  with  a  knife,  so  as  to  exiMJse  as  much 
surface  as  possible,  is  laid  on  the  rocks  to  dry. 
After  becoming  thoroiiirhly  li.ard,  it  is  bruised  to 
imwder,  mixed  with  the  oil  of  the  leaf  fat  of  the 
fish,  and  packed  away  in  (lag  sacks.  Although 
no  salt  is  used  in  this  preparation,  it  remains  good 
till  May  of  the  (bllowing  yi'ar.  The  acorns,  as 
soon  as  they  fall  from  trees,  arc  buried  in  sand 
constantly  saturated  with  water,  where  they  re- 
main till  siiriiir.  I'y  this  soaking  their  hitter 
flavor  is  said  to  be  destroyed. 

After  supper  Mr.  Lee  ordered  a  launch,  and 
llie  Indian  [laddles  were  again  dipping  in  the 
bright  waters.  The  stars  were  out  on  the  clear 
mght,  twinkling  as  of  old,  when  the  lofty  peaks 
around  were  heaved  from  the  depths  of  the  vol- 
cano. They  now  liKiked  down  on  a  less  grand, 
indeed,  but  more  lovely  scene.  The  fires  of  the 
natives  blazed  among  the  woody  glens,  the  light 
canoe  skimmed  the  waters  near  the  shore,  the 
winds  groaned  over  the  inountam  lops,  the  cas- 
cades sang  [from  clifV  to  elill',  the  loon  shouted 
and  dove  beneath  the  shining  wave ;  it  was  ;<. 
wild,  almost  unearthly  scene,  in  the  dee|)  gorge  of 
the  Columbia.  The  rising  of  the  moon  changed 
its  features.  The  profoundcst  silence  reigned,  save 
u 


the  daith  of  pnddlci  timt  echoed  faintly  from  the 
shored;  our  canoe  uprang  lighllv  over  the  npplini; 
waters,  the  Indian  fires  Bmonl'tcrcd  nmong  tho 
waving  pine^  ;  the  stars  became  dim,  and  tho 
depths  of  till  blue  sky  glowed  une  vast  nebida  nf 
mellow  light.  Hut  the  eastern  mountains  hid 
awhile  the  orb  from  sight.  The  south  western 
bights  shone  with  its  pale  beams,  nnd  cant  into 
till'  deeply  sunken  river  a  bewitching  dancing  of 
light  and  shade,  imeipialed  by  the  pencil  nf  the 
wilili  si  imagiiiatioii.  'i'he  grandeur  too  of  grove, 
and  elill',  and  mountain,  and  the  miglilvColumbia 
wrapped  in  the  drapery  of  a  golden  miilnii'hll  I 
wns  wholly  loBt.  It  was  the  new  and  rapidly  open, 
ing  piiiorama  of  the  siilihnie  wililernesH.  And 
the  scene  chiuigeil  again  when  the  moon  wan 
high  in  heaven.  The  cocks  crew  in  the  Indian 
villages;  the  birds  twittered  on  the  Imiighs  ;  thn 
wild  lowls  sercTiiiril,  as  her  light  gilded  the  chasm 
of  the  river,  and  revealed  Ihi'  high  rock  IslaiiilH 
with  their  rugged  crags  and  mouldering  tombs. 
The  winds  from  .Mount  Adams  were  loaded  with 
frosts,  and  the  poetry  of  the  night  was  fist  waning 
into  an  ague,  when  .Mr.  1,.  ordered  the  steersman 
to  moor.  A  crackling  pine  fire  was  soon  blazing, 
and  having  warmed  our  Hhivering  frames,  wo 
spread  our  blankets  and  slept  sweetly  till  the 
dawn. 

Ivirly*>n  the  morning  of  the  Ifitli,  our  Indians 
were  pulling  al  the  paddies.  The  sky  was  overcast, 
and  a  dash  of  rain  occasionally  fell, — thn  first  I 
had  witnes.sed  since  leaving  Hayou  Salade.  And 
although  the  air  was  chilly,  and  the  heavenii 
gloomy,  yet  when  the  large  idear  drojifl  ji  iltered 
on  my  hat,  and  fell  in  glad  I'onfiision  around  our 
little  hark,  a  thrill  of  pleasure  shot  through  my 
heart.  Dangers,  wastes,  thirst,  starvation,  eter- 
nal ilearth  on  the  etirth,  and  dowless  heavens, 
were  matters  only  of  painful  recollection.  Thn 
present  was  the  reality  of  the  past  engrafted  on 
the  hopes  of  the  future;  the  showery  skies,  the 
lofty  green  moimt.iins,  the  tumbling  cataracts, 
the  mighty  forests,  the  sweet  savor  of  teeming 
groves — among  the  like  of  which  I  had  breathed 
in  infancy— hung  over  the  threshold  of  the  lower 
Columbia — the  goal  of  my  wayfaring.  Hearken 
to  that  roar  of  waters  I  see  the  h.iBtening  of  tho 
flood  I  hear  the  sharp  ri|)pling  by  yonder  rock  1 
The  whole  river  sinks  from  view  In  ndvanc«  of 
lis!  The  I)0W,-iman  dips  his  paditle  deeply  and 
i]uicklv — the  frail  canoe  shoots  to  the  northern 
shorn  between  a  string  of  islands  and  the  main 
land — glides  quickly  down  a  narrow  channel ; 
passes  a  village  of  cedar  board  wigsvams  on  a 
l)caulii"ul  little  plain  to  the  right ;  it  rounds  the 
lower  ii.land  ;  behold  the  Cascades  1  An  immense 
trough  of  boulders  of  rocks,  down  which  rushes 
the  "  Great  River  of  the  West  1  "  The  baggage 
is  ashore ;  tho  Indians  are  conveying  the  canoo 
over  the  jwrtage, — and  wlulc  this  is  being  done 
the  reader  will  have  time  to  cxplori;  the  lower 
falls  of  the  ( 'olumbia,  and  their  vicinage. 

The  trail  of  the  Portage  rims  near  the  torrent, 
along  the  rocky  slope  on  its  northern  bank,  and 
terninates  among  large  loose  rocks,  blanched  by 
the  floods  of  ages,  at  tlie  foot  of  the  trough  of  the 
main  rapid.  It  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  io'if. 
At  its  lower  end  voyagers  reiimliark  when  th^ 
river  is  at  a  low  stage,  and  run  the  lower  rapids. 
But  when   it  is  swollen  by   the   amiual  freeljets, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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oliic 


Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


.%'. 


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€■■ 


90 


TraveU  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


Ihcy  boar  Ihcir  Iwate  a  mile  ami  n  )mlf  fiirtlicr 
down,  whtTc  tlic  waleT  in  deep  and  Irss  tuinultii- 
OU8.  In  wulkiiij;  down  this  path,  I  had  a  near 
virw  of  (ho  whole  Irnfrth  of  the  main  rjipids.  Ah 
I  have  intimated,  the  In'd  of  the  river  here  is  a 
vast  inclined  trough  of  white  rocks,  sixty  or  eighty 
feet  deep,  about  -lOO  yards  wide  at  the  top,  and 
diminibliing  to  about  half  that  width  at  the  Imt- 
tom.  The  length  of  this  trough  is  about  a  mile. 
In  that  distance  the  water  falls  about  130  feet ; 
in  the  rapids,  above  and  U'low  it,  alwut  iJO  feel — 
making  the  whoh^  descent  al)OUt  1,10  feet.  The 
quantity  of  water  which  passes  here  is  incalcula- 
ble. Hut  an  approximate  idea  of  it  may  be  ob. 
taincd  from  the  fact  that  while  the  velocity  is  so 
great  that  the  eye  with  diflieulty  follows  objects 
floating  on  the  surface — yet  such  is  its  volume  at 
the  lowest  stage  of  the  river,  that  it  rises  and 
bends  like  a  sea  of  molten  glass  over  a  channel 
of  immense  rocks,  without  breaking  its  surface, 
except  near  the  shores  ;  so  deep  luid  vast  is  the 
mighty  flood!  In  the  ,lune  freshets,  when  the 
melted  snows  from  tlie  western  declivities  of  700 
miles  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  those  on  the 
eastern  sides  of  the  President's  Range,  come  down, 
the  Cascades  nuist  present  a  spectacle  of  sublimity 
equalled  only  by  Niagani.  This  Is  tlie  passage 
of  the  river  through  the  IVcsidrnt's  Range,  and 
the  mountains  near  it  on  cither  side  are  worthy 
of  their  dislinLTuished  name.  At  a  short  distance 
from  the  wailhcrn  shore  thev  rise  in  long  ridgy 
slopes,  covered  with  pines  and  olher  terebinthine 
trees  of  extraordinary  size,  over  the  tops  of  which 
rise  bold  black  crags,  wliich,  elevating  themselves 
in  great  grandeur  one  beyond  another,  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  to  the  southward,  cluster  around  the 
icy  bas<^  of  Mount  Washington.  On  the  other 
side  of  the  cascades  is  a  similar  scene.  Inunense 
and  gloomy  forests,  tangled  with  fallen  timber 
and  imix'netrablc  underbrush,  cover  mountains, 
which  in  the  Stales,  would  excite  the  profoundcs'. 
admiration  for  tlieir  majesty  and  beauty,  but 
which  dwindle  into  insigniticance  as  they  arc 
viewed  in  presence  of  the  shining  glaciers  and 
massive  grandeur  of  Mount  Adams,  hanging  over 
them. 

The  river  alwve  the  cascades  runs  north  west, 
wardly ;  but  approaching  the  descent  it  turns 
westward — and,  aOer  entering  the  trough  south 
westwardly  ;  and  having  pas.scd  this,  it  resumes  its 
course  to  the  north  west.  Hy  this  bend,  it  leaves 
between  its  shore  and  the  northern  mountains,  a 
somewhat  broken  plain,  a  mile  in  width,  and  about 
four  miles  in  length.  At  the  up|)er  end  of  the 
rapids  this  plain  is  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  river  : 
so  that  an  inconsiderable  rrcshel  sets  the  water  up 
a  natural  e.lianncl  halfway  across  the  bend.  This 
circumstimec,  and  the  absence  of  any  serious  ob. 
structions  in  the  form  of  hills,  iVe.  led  me  to  sup. 
pose  that  n  canal  might  be  cut  around  the  cas. 
cades  at  a  trifling  expense,  which  would  not  only 
oi)cn  steamboat  navigation  to  the  Dalles,  but  fur. 
nish  at  thisinteresting  spot,  an  incalculable  amount 
of  water  pov.-cr. 

The  canoe  iiad  been  deposited  among  the  rocks 
at  the  lower  end  of  the  trough,  our  cocoa  and  lioil. 
ed  salmon,  bread,  i:utter,  |)otatoc8,  etcetera,  had 
lieen  located  in  their  proi)er  de[M)8ilories,  and  wc 
were  taking  a  parting  gaze  at  the  rushing  flood, 
when  the  sound  of  footsteps  and  an  order  given 


in  French  to  de])osite  n  bale  of  goods  at  the 
water  side,  drew  our  attention  to  a  heart 3*  old  gen- 
tleman  of  fifty  or  lifly.five,  whom  Mr.  I<eo  im. 
mediately  recognized  as  Dr.  McLaughlin.  He 
was  about  five  feet  eleven  inches  in  bight,  and 
stoutly  built,  weigliing  about  '200  pounds,  with 
large  green  blueish  eyes,  a  ruddy  complexion,  and 
hair  of  snowy  whiteness.  lie  was  on  his  return 
from  London  with  depatches  from  the  II.  B.  Com- 
pany's Hoard  in  England,  and  wilh  letters  from 
friends  at  home  to  the  hundreds  of  Hritons  in  its 
employ  in  the  northwestern  wilderness.  He  was 
in  higli  spirits.  Kvcry  crag  in  sight  was  familiar 
to  him — liad  witnessed  the  energy  and  zeal  of 
thirty  years  successful  enterprise — had  seen  him 
in  the  strength  of  ripened  manhood — and  now  be. 
held  liis  undiminished  energies  crowi\ed  with  the 
frosted  locks  of  age.  We  spent  ten  minutes  with 
the  doctor,  and  received  a  kind  invitation  to  the 
hospitalities  of  his  |X)st ;  gav<'  om'  cimrM',  freighted 
with  our  baggage,  in  charge  of  the  In<lians,  to 
take  down  the  lower  rapids;  and  ascended  the 
blurt"  to  the  trail  that  leads  to  the  tidewater  below 
them.  Wc  climbed  two  hundred  feet  among  small 
spruce,  pine,  lir,  and  hemlock  trees,  to  the  table 
land.  The  track  was  strewn  with  fragments  of 
petrified  frees,  from  three  inches  to  two  feet  in 
dianirter.  and  rocks,  (quartz  and  granitc.ex  loco,) 
mingled  wilh  olliere.  more  or  less  fused.  Soon  af- 
ter striking  the  path  on  the  plain,  we  came  to  a 
beautiful  little  lake,  lying  near  the  brink  of  the 
hill.  It  was  clear  and  dirp.  And  around  its 
western,  norlhern,  and  caslcrn  shores,  droo|icd  the 
boughs  of  a  thick  hedge  of  small  evergreen  trees, 
which  dip])ed  and  rose  charmingly  in  its  waters. 
All  around  stood  the  lofly  pines,  sighing  and  groan, 
ing  in  the  wind.  Nothing  could  be  seen  but  the 
little  lake  and  the  girding  forest ;  a  gem  of  perfect 
beauty,  reflecting  the  deep  shades  ol  the  unbroken 
wilderness.  A  little  stream  creeping  away  from  it 
down  the  blurt",  babbled  back  the  roar  of  the  Cas. 
cades. 

The  trail  led  us  among  deep  ravines,  clad  with 
heavy  frosts,  the  soil  of  which  was  n  coarse  gravel, 
thinly  covered  wilh  a  vegetable  mould.  A  mile 
from  the  lake,  wc  came  upon  a  plain  level  again.  In 
this  place  was  a  collection  of  Inilian  tondjs,  simi. 
lar  to  those  upon  Ihc  "  Island  of  tombs."  There 
were  six  or  eight  in  number,  and  contained  a  great 
quantity  of  bones.  On  the  boards  around  the  sides 
were  painted  the  figures  of  death,  horses,  i.ojjs, 
&c.  The  great  destroyer  bears  the  same  grm: 
aspect  to  the  savage  mind  that  he  does  to  ours. — 
A  skull  and  the  fleshless  Iwnes  of  a  skeleton  piled 
around,  were  his  sjMtdM)!  upon  these  rude  resting 
places  of  the  departed.  One  of  them,  which  our 
Indian  said  crMitained  the  remains  of  a  celebrated 
"  Medicin  man,"  Imre  the  figure  of  a  horse  rudely 
carved  from  the  red  cedar  tree.  This  was  the 
form  in  which  his  piisllinninuii  visits  were  lo  1m; 
made  to  his  tribe.  Small  brass  kettles,  wooden 
pails,  and  baskets  of  curiaus  workmanship,  were 
piled  on  the  roof. 

Thence  onward  half  a  mile  over  a  stony  soil, 
sometimes  open,  and  .\i{ain  covered  wilh  forests, 
brought  us  to  our  canoe  by  the  rocky  shore  at  the 
fool  of  the  rapids.  Air.  Lee  here  |)omted  nic  lo'a 
strong  eddjnng  current  on  the  southern  shore,  in 
which  Mr.  Cyrus  Shepard  and  Mrs.  Doctor  White 
and  child,  of  thu  Methodist  Mission  on  the  Willa- 


1 


m( 

to 

sw 

sii 

ha 

an 

dii 

an 

tai 


in  th''  Rochj  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc. 


91 


• 


incite,  were  capsized  the  year  before,  in  an  attempt 
to  run  the  lower  rapids.  Mr.  Khepard  could  not 
swim — had  sunk  the  second  time,  and  rose  by  tlie 
side  of  the  upturned  canoe,  when  he  seized  the 
hand  of  Ma .  White,  wlio  was  on  th(!  opposite  side, 
and  thus  suBtaiiied  himself  and  her,  initil  some  (n- 
dians  came  to  their  relief.  t)ii  reachinjj  tin;  shore, 
and  turning  up  the  canoe,  liio  child  was  found  en- 
tangled among  the  eross-bars,  dead ! 

Tlie  current  was  strong  where  we  reimtcrcd 
our  canoe,  and  bore  us  along  at  a  lively  rate. — 
The  weather,  too,  was  very  agreeable  ;  the  sky 
transp.irent,  and  glowing  with  a  mild  October 
sun.  The  scenery  about  us  was  truly  grand.  A 
few  detached  wisps  of  mist  clung  to  the  dark 
ercgs  of  the  mountains  on  the  southern  shore, 
and  numerous  cascades  shot  out  from  the  peaks, 
nnd  tumbling  from  one  sheh  to  another,  at  length 
plunged  hundreds  of  leet  among  confused  hcajis 
of  rocks  in  the  vale.  The  crags  themselves  were 
extremely  picturesque;  they  beetled  out  so  Ixjldly, 
a  thousand  feet  above  the  forests  on  the  sides  of 
the  mountain,  and  appeared  to  hang  so  easily  and 
gracefully  on  the  air.  .Some  of  them  were  basal- 
tic. One  I  thought  very  remarkable.  'I'he 
mountain  on  which  it  stood  was  alx>ut  1,200  feet 
high.  On  its  ^idc  there  was  a  deep  rt)cky  ravine. 
In  this,  about  300  feet  from  the  plain,  arose  a 
column  30  or  40  feet  in  diameter,  nnd,  I  judged, 
more  than  aOO  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  cap 
resembling  the  pediment  of  an  ancient  church. — 
Far  up  'ts  sides  grew  a  number  of  sltfub  eedar.^, 
which  {had  taken  root  in  the  crevices,  nnd,  as 
they  grew,  sunk  down  horizontally,  and  formed  : 
an  irregular  fringe  of  green  around  it.  A  short 
distance  further  down  was  seen  a  beautiful  eas.  i 
cade.  The  stream  appeared  to  rise  near  the  very  i 
apex  of  the  mountain,  and  having  run  a  number  , 
of  rods  in  a  dark  gorge  between  two  peaks,  it  i 
suddenly  shot  from  the  brink  of  a  clifl'  into  the 
copse  of  evergreen  trees  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain. The  liight  of  the  pe.pendicular  fall,  ap-  | 
jicared  to  bo  alxiut  GOO  feet.  Some  of  tlu;  water 
was  dispersed  in  spray  liefore  reacluug  the 
ground;  but  a  large  quantity  of  it  tell  on  the 
plain,  and  sent  among  the  bights  a  noisy  and 
thrilling  echo.  On  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
the  mouiitains  were  less  precipitous,  and  covered 
with  a  dense  forest  of  ])ines,  cedars,  firs,  &c.  ! 

The  bottom  lands  of  the  river  were  alternately 
prairies  and  woodlands.  The  former,  clad  with 
a  heavy  growtii  of  t'c  wild  grasses,  dry  and 
brown  ;  tlie  latter,  w  h  pine,  lir,  cotton. wood, 
black  ash,  and  vario  ..,  kinds  of  shrubs.  The  ; 
river  varied  in  width  from  one  to  two  miles, 
generally  deep  and  still,  but  occasionally  crossed 
by  sand-bars.  Ten  or  twelve  miles  Ih'Iow  the 
cascades  we  came  upon  one,  that,  stretching  two 
or  three  miles  down  the  river,  turned  the  current  ; 
to  the  southern  shore.  The  wind  blew  freshly, 
and  the  waves  ran  high  in  that  quarter ;  so  it 
was  deemed  expedient  to  lighten  the  canoe.  To  ■ 
this  end  Mr.  Ix.'e,  the  two  Americans  and  my-  j 
self,  landed  on  the  northern  shore  for  a  walk, 
while  the  Indians  should  paddle  around  to  the 
lower  point  of  the  bar.  W'a  traveled  along  the 
Ireach.  It  was  generally  hard  and  gravelly. — 
Among  the  pebbles,  I  noticed  several  splendid 
specimens  of  the  agate.  The  soil  of  the  Hats  was 
u  vegetable  mould,  ciglitccn  inclics  or  two  fuct  in  j 


depth,  resting  on  a  stratum  of  sand  and  gravel, 
and  evidently  overflown  by  the,  annual  floods  of 
,Iune.  The  Hats  varied  from  a  few  rods  to  a  mile 
in  width.  While  enjoying  this  walk,  the  two 
Americans  started  up  a  deer,  followed  it  into  the 
woods,  and,  loth  to  return  unsuccessful,  pursued 
it  till  long  after  our  canoe  was  moored  IhUow  the 
bar.  So  that  Mr.  Id'C  nnd  myself  had  abundant 
time  to  amuse  ourselves  with  all  r.ianner  of  home, 
ly  wishes  toward  our  persevering  companions  till 
near  sunset,  when  the  three  barges  of  Doctor  Mc 
Laughlin,  under  their  Indian  blanket  sails  and 
saplin  masts,  swept  gallantly  by  us,  and  added 
the  last  dreg  to  our  vexation.  Mr.  licc  was 
calm  ;  I  was  furious.  What,  for  a  paltry  deer, 
lose  a  view  ol  the  Columbia  hence  to  the  Fort  I 
But  I  remember  with  satisfaction  that  no  one  was 
materially  injured  by  my  wrath,  nnd  that  my  tni- 
aut  countrymen  were  sufficiently  gratified  with 
their  success  to  euiible  them  to  bear  with  much 
resignation  three  emphatic  scowls,  as  they  made 
their  appearanct!  at  the  canoe. 

The  dusk  of  night  was  now  creeping  into  tlic 
valleys,  and  we  had  twenty  miles  to  make.  The 
tide  from  the  Pacific  was  setting  up,  and  the 
wind  hid  left  us  ;  but  oiu'  Indians  suggested  tliat 
the  force  of  their  paddles,  stimulated  by  a  small 
pres(?nt  of  "  shnioke"  (tobacco,)  would  still  carry 
us  in  by  1 1  o'clock.  We  therefore  gave  our  pro- 
mises to  pay  the  re(|uircd  (juantum  of  the  herb, 
ensconced  ourselves  in  blankets,  and  dojed  to  the 
wUd  music  of  the  paddles,  till  a  shower  of  iiail 
aroused  us.  It  was  about  10  o'clock.  An  an- 
gry cloud  hung  over  us  ;  and  the  rain  and  hail 
fell  fast ;  the  wind  from  Mounts  \Vashington  and 
Jeflerson  chilled  every  fibre  of  our  systems  ;  the 
wooded  liills,  on  Imth  sides  of  the  river,  were 
wrapped  in  cold  brown  clouds ;  the  owl  nnd  wolf 
were  answering  each  other  on  the  bights  ;  enough 
of  light  lay  on  the  stream  to  show  dimly  the  isl. 
ands  that  divided  its  waters  ;  and  the  fires  of  the 
wigwams  disclosed  the  naked  groups  of  savages 
around  them.  It  was  a  scene  that  the  imagina- 
tion loves.  The  canoe,  thirty  feet  in  length,  the 
like  of  which  had  cut  those  waters  centuries  be- 
fore ;  the  Indians,  kneeling  two  and  two,  and 
rising  on  their  |)ad(lles  ;  their  devoted  missionary 
surveying  them  and  the  villages  on  the  shores, 
and  rejoicing  in  the  anticipation,  that  soon  the 
songs  of  the  redeemed  savage  would  break  from 
the  dark  vales  of  Oregon  ;  that  those  wastes  of 
mind  would  soon  teem  with  a  harvest  of  happi- 
ness and  truth,  cast  a  breathing  unutterable 
charm  over  the  deep  hues  of  that  green  wilder- 
ness, dimly  seen  on  that  stormy  night,  which 
will  give  me  pleasure  to  dwell  upon  while  I  live. 
"On  the  bar,"  cried  Mr.  Lee  ;  nnd  while  our  In- 
dians leaped  into  the  water,  and  dragged  the  ca- 
noe to  the  channel,  he  |>ointed  to  the  dim  light  of 
the  Hudson  Hay  Company's  saw  and  grist  mill, 
two  miles  above  on  the  northern  shore.  We  were 
three  miles  from  Vancouver.  The  Indians  knew 
the  bar,  and  were  delighted  to  find  themselves  so 
near  the  termination  of  their  toil.  They  soon 
found  the  channel,  nnd  leaping  alward,  j)lied  their 
their  paddles  with  renewed  energy.  And  if  any 
one  faltered,  the  steersman  rebuked  liim  with  his 
own  hopes  of  "  shinoke"  and  "  schejotecut,"  (the 
Fort)  which  never  failed  to  bring  tlie  deUnqucnt 
to  duty.    Twenty  minutes  ol'  vigorous  rowing 


Travels  in  the  Or  eat  Western  Prairies, 


moored  ui  at  the  Inndini;.  A  few  hundred  ynrds 
below  floated  a  ship  and  a  Blfwp,  scaicoly  "ocn 
through  the  fog.  Or.  Mie  shore  rose  a  levee  or 
breastwork,  along  which  the  dusky  savapres  were 
gliding  with  stealthy  and  silent  tread.  In  the 
distance  were  heard  voices  in  English  Bpeakind'of 
home.  We  landed,  ascended  llie  levee,  centered  a 
lane  between  cidti  /ated  fields,  walked  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  where,  undor  a  long  line  of  pickets,  we 
entered  Fort  Vancouver — the  goal  of  my  wander, 
ings,  the  destination  of  my  weary  footsteps ! 

Mr.  James  Douglass,  the  gentleman  who  had 
been  in  charge  of  the  |iost  during  the  absence  of 
Dr.  McLiughlin,  conducted  us  to  a  irioni  warmed 
by  a  well-fed  stove;  insisted  that  I  hIiuuUI  ex. 
change  my  wet  gamienls  for  dry  ones,  and  prof, 
fered  every  other  net  that  the  kindest  hoHpilulily 
could  suggest  to  relieve  nic  of  the  diHcomforts  re. 
suiting  from  four  months'  journeying  in  the  wil- 
derneiM. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Depsrlure  from  Vanrouver— Wippnloo  IstnnH— The  Wit. 
lninMliiRi'pr— lis  Moutl.— Tlie  Miiunlainj— Palls— River 
abovelheKallj— *rriv*l  atllie  l<i«erMi"til<'mi'Bl— A  Kt'n- 
tacliinn— Mr.  Johuson  nntt  his  ('uliiii— Tboniat  McKay 
•dd  hi«  Mil —Dor.lor  Baili-y  anil  Wile  anil  >lonii'— The 
NelKlitwruie  Parmer*— The  MeUioilist  Eplsci  jiil  Missl'in 
anil  Miiii»narle«— Their  Moile«  i-f  Operalion-The  Win- 
item  of  (heir  Course— Their  IniprovenienU,  he— Ite'iirn 
lo  Vancouver- Mr.  Young— Mr.  Lee's  Misfonunf — De 
•ceniofUieWillanimr— Indians— Arrival  at  Vancouver— 
Oreeon— lis  Mnunlaiiis,  llivers  ami  Soil,  anil  Climate— 
Hhlpiuent  for  the  Sandwich  iKlanils—Life  at  Vancouver— 
Deiceit  of  the  ColDnihia- A'lo  in— On  the  Pacific  Sea— 
The  Liut  VIewof  Oreeen— AcciiunI  oi*  Oregon,  hy  Lieut. 
Wilkes,  Commander  uf  the  lale  Kxploriiig  E<prdilion. 

On  the  moniinij  of  Uic  21st,  I  left  tlic  Fort  and 
dropped  down  me  Columliia,  five  miles,  lo  Wap. 
)>atoo  Island.  This  large  tract  of  low  land  is 
boimded  on  the  south-west,  south  and  south-east, 
by  the  mouths  of  the  Willamette,  and  on  the 
north  by  the  C'olumbia.  Tin'  side  eontiguous  to 
the  latter  river  is  alxiut  fillien  miles  in  length ; 
the  side  bounded  by  the  eastern  mnuth  of  the  Wil- 
lamette about  seven  milen,  and  that  boinuled  liy 
the  western  mouth  of  the  same  river  about  twelve 
miles.  It  derives  its  name  from  an  edible  root 
Railed  WappaUm,  which  it  produces  in  abundance. 
It  is  generally  low,  and,  in  the  central  parts,  broken 
with  small  ponds  and  marshes,  in  which  the  w:iter 
rises  and  falls  with  the  river.  Nearly  the  whole 
surface  is  overflown  by  the  .Tune  freshets.  It  is 
covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  eotton-wood,  elm. 
white-oak,  black-ash,  abler,  and  a  large  species  of 
laurel,  and  other  shrubs.  The  Hudson  May  Com. 
pany,  some  years  ago,  ])lace(l  a  few  hogs  u|K)n  it, 
whicli  have  sulwisted  entirely  uix)n  nx)ts,  acorns, 
&c.,  and  increased  to  many  hundreds. 

I  found  the  Willamette  deep  enough  for  ordi. 
nary  steamboats,  the  distance  of  Hi)  miles  from 
its  western  mouth.  One  mile  below  the  falls  are 
rapids,  on  which  the  w.atci  was  too  shallow  lo 
float  our  canoe.  The  tide  rises  at  this  place 
about  14  inches.  The  western  shore  of  the  river, 
from  the  point  where  its  mou'hs  diverge  to  this 
place,  consists  of  lofty  mountains  rising  iiimie- 
diatcly  from  the  waier.side.  and  covered  with 
pines.  On  the  eastern  side,  l)eautifid  swells  and 
plains  extend  from  the  Columbia  to  witliin  five 
or  six  miles  of  the  rapids.  They  are  generally 
covered  with  pine,  white.oak,  black-ash,  and 
other  kinds  of  timber.  From  the  point  last 
named  to  the  rapids,  wooded  moimtains  crowd 


I  ilown  to  the  verge  of  the  stream.  Just  below  the 
;  rapids  a  very  considerable  stream  comes  in  from 
the  east.  It  is  said  to  rise  in  a  champaign 
countrj',  which  commences  two  or  three  miles 
(nun  the  Willamette,  and  extends  eastward  20 
or  30  miles  lo  the  lower  hills  of  the  President's 
range.  This  stream  breaks  through  the  inoun. 
tain  tmniiltuously,  and  enters  the  Willamctli 
with  BO  strong  a  current,  as  to  endanger  boats 
attempting  to  pass  it.  Here  were  a  number  of 
Indian  huts,  the  inmates  of  which  were  busied  in 
taking  and  vuring  salmon.  Between  the  rapids 
and  the  falls,  the  country  adjacent  lo  the  river,  is 
similar  to  that  just  deseril)ed  ;  mountains  clothed 
with  im|)enetrable  forests.  The  river,  thus  far, 
appeared  to  have  an  average  width  fif  400  yards ; 
water  limpid.  As  we  approached  the  falls,  the 
eastern  shore  presented  a  solid  wall  of  basalt,  30 
feet  in  ]KTpendicular  hight.  On  the  top  of  this 
wall  was  nearly  an  acre  of  level  area,  on  which 
the  Hudson  Bay  ('ompany  have  built  a  log-honse. 
This  plain  is  three  or  four  feet  below  the  level  of 
the  water  above  the  falls,  and  protected  from  Iho 
floods  by  the  intervi  ntion  of  a  deep  chasm,  which 
separates  it  from  the  rocks  over  which  the  water 
pours.  This  is  the  best  site  in  the  country  for  ex- 
tensive flouring  and  lumber-mills.  The  valley  of 
the  Willamette  is  the  only  jmrtion  of  Oregon  from 
which  grain  can  ever,  lo  any  extent,  lieeome  an 
article  of  eximrt  ;  and  this  splendid  waterfall  can 
be  apiiroaelied  at  all  seasons,  from  above  and  be. 
low.  by  sliMips,  schooners,  &c.  The  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  aware  of  its  importance,  have  com- 
ineneed  a  race-way,  and  drawn  timber  on  the 
gmund,  with  the  apparent  intention  of  erecting 
such  works.  On  the  op{)osite  side  is  an  acre  or 
two  of  broken  ground,  which  might  be  similarly 
occupied. 

The  falls  are  formed  by  a  line  of  dark  rock, 
which  stretches  diagonally  across  the  stream. 
The  river  was  low  when  I  passed  it,  and  all  the 
water  was  dischargixl  at  three  jets.  Two  f  these 
were  near  the  western  shore.  The  other  was  near 
the  eastern  shore,  and  fell  into  the  chasm  which 
divides  the  rocky  plain  before  named,  from  the 
clifl's  of  tlie  falls.  At  the  mouth  of  this  chasm 
my  Indians  unloaded  their  canoe,  dragged  it  up 
tlie  crags,  and  having  l)orne  it  on  their  shoulders 
eight  or  ten  mds,  launched  it  U|xiii  a  narrow  neck 
of  Water  by  the  shore  ;  reloaded,  and  rowed  to  the 
I  deep  water  above.  The  scene,  however,  was  too 
interesting  to  leave  so  soon,  and  I  tarried  a  while 
.  to  view  it.  The  cataract  roared  loudly  among  the 
,  caverns,  and  sent  a  thousand  foaiuing  cdd'.'S  into 
;  the  stream  below.  (Countless  numlicrs  of  lalmon 
were  leaping  and  Adling  U])on  the  fretted  waters ; 
savages  alnioKt  naked  were  around  me,  untrained 
by  the  soothing  influences  of  true  knowledge,  and 
the  lin|Hs  of  a  |>urer  world  ;  as  rude  as  the  rocks 
on  which  they  trod  ;  as  bestial  as  the  licar  that 
giowleil  in  the  thicket.  On  cither  hand  was  the 
primeval  wilderness,  with  its  decaying  and  per- 
;ietually.reiiewing  energies !  Nothing  could  be 
more  inteiiKly  interesting.  I  li;id  but  a  moment 
in  these  jileasiint  yet  painful  reflections,  wheir  my 
Indians,  becoming  impatient,  called  me  to  pursiio 
my  voyage. 

A  mile  above  the  falls  a  large  creek  comes  in 
from  the  west.  It  is  said  to  rise  among  tlic 
mountains  near  tlic  Columbia,  and  to  run  soath 


in  the  Jtochj  Moun(ain$,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc. 


93 


nnd  south.cast  anel  MBtwardly  tlirou|rIi  a  Rcries  of 
fine  prairim,  intrmprrsrd  with  timlior.  AIkjvi;  tlio 
fallM,  the  mountains  riro  iiiinirdiatcly  from  thu 
•A-atpr's  cdjfp,  clothed  with  noblr  forests  of  pine, 
&e.  ;  hilt  at  the  distanec  of  15  miles  almve,  their 
green  ridges  give  plaeo  to  jjraBsy  and  wooded 
swells  on  the  west,  and  tinil)cred  and  prairie;  plains 
on  the  eastern  side.  This  section  of  tlie  river  np. 
pearcd  navijrahle  for  any  craft  that  could  float  in 
the  stream  below  the  iulls. 

It  was  (lark  when  I  arrived  at  the  level  country ; 
and  emerifiiiw  guddnnly  in  sight  of  a  fire  on  tJie 
western  hanlt,  my  Inciians  cried  "  Doston  !  Bos. 
ton  !  "    and  turned  the  canoe  ashore  to  pive  ine 
an  opportiiiiily  of  speakine  W''''  <^  fellow  country, 
man.     He  was  sitting  in  the  drizzlinj;  rain,  hy  a 
large  lojr.fire — a  stalwart  six  fofit  Kentucky  trap, 
per.      After  long  8or\Mee  in  the  American   Fur 
Companies,  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  he  had 
conic  down  to  the  Willnniette,  accompanied  by 
an  Indian  woman  and  his  child,  selected  a  place 
to  build  his  home,  made  an  '  improvement,'  sold 
it,  nnd  was  now  commencing  another.     He  en. 
ttred  my  cnnoe,  and  steered  across  the  river  to  a 
Mr.  .lohnnon's.     "  I'm  sorry  I  can't  keep  you," 
said  he,  "  but  I  reckon  you  '11  sleep  better  under 
shingles,  than  this  stormy  sk}'.     Johnson  will  be 
glad  to  see  you.     lie  's  got  a  good  slumtee,  and 
something  for  j-ou  to  eat."     ^Ve  soon  crossed  the 
sirenm,  and  entered  the  cabin  of  Mr.  Johnson. 
It  was  a  lie->vn  log  structure,  alxml  30  feet  square, 
with  a  mud  chimney,  hearth  and  llrc-place.    Tlio 
furniture   consisted  of  one  chair,  a  number  of 
wooden  benches,  a  nidi;  liudstead  covered   witli  i 
flag  mats,  and  several  slieet.iron  kettles,  earthen  j 
plates,  knives  and  forks,  tin  pint  cups,  an  Jndian  I 
wife,  and  a  brace  of  brown  boys.      I-jiassed  the  ! 
night  pleasantly  with  Mr.  .lohnson  ;   and  in  the  ; 
morning  rose  early  to  go  to  the  Methodist  Episco. 
pal  Mission,  13  miles  alxive.     Hut  the  old  hunter  j 
detained  me  to  breakfast ;  and  afterward  insisted 
that  I  should  view  his  premises,  while  his  Imy 
should  gather  the  horses  to  convey  me  on  my 
way.      And  a  sight  of  fenced  fields,  many  acres  j 
of  wheat  and  oat-stubble,  jiotato-tleldH,  and  gar- 
den, vegetablea  of  all  descriptions,  and  a  barn  well 
Rloreil  with  the  gathered  harvest  compensated  me  j 
for  the  dt'lay.      Adjoining   Mr.  Johnson's   farm 
were  four  others,  on  all  of  wliich  lli-rc  wi'rc  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  acres  under  ei,   ivation,  and  i 
substantial  log-houses  and  barns.     One  of  these  ! 
belonged    to   Thomas    McKay,    son   of  McKay  | 
who  figured  with  Mr.  Astor  in  the  doings  of  the 
Pacific  Fur  Company. 

After  surveying  these  niarkb  of  civilization,  I 
found  a  I)r.    Hailey  waiting    with  his  horses  to 
convey  nic  to  his  home.  We  accordingly  mounted, 
hade  adieu  to  the  old  trapper  of  Hudson  Bay  and 
other  parts  of  the  frozen  north,  and  went  to  view 
McKay's  mill.     A  grist-mill    in  Oregon !     We 
found   him  working   at   lun  dam.     Near  by  lay 
French  burrntonei,  and  soino  [Hjrtionsof  Bubstan-  j 
tial  and  well-fash i.oned  iron  work.     The  frame  of  j 
the  mill-hoiise  was  raised  and  shingled  ;  nnil  an 
excellent  structure  it  was.     The  whole  expense  cf  i 
the  fstablishmi-nt,  when  coinpleled,  is  expected  i 
to  be  #7,(100  r)r  .^8,000.     McKay's  mother  is  a  ! 
('rce  or   (Jhipeway    Indian  ;    and    McKay   is  a  ' 
Blrnnge  comjKumH  of  the  two  races.     The  con.  j 
tour  of  his  frame  and  iealurc*,  is  Scutch ;  his 


manners  and  intellections  strongly  tinctured  with 
the  Indian.  He  has  been  in  the  service  of  the 
Fur  Companies  all  his  life,  save  some  six  orieven 
years  past  ;  and  by  his  daring  enterprise,  and 
courage  in  battle,  has  rendered  niinsclf  the  terror 
of  the  Oregon  Indians. 

'  Leaving  McKay's  mill,  wc  traveled  along  a 
circuitous  track  through  a  heavy  forest  of  fir  and 
pine,  and  emerged  into  a  Ix!autifu1  little  prairie,  at 
the  side  of  which  stood  the  doctor's  neat  hewn 
log  cabin,  sending  its  cheerful  smoke  among  the 
lofty  iiine  tops  in  its  rear.  We  soon  sat  by  a 
blazing  fire,  and  the  storm  that  had  pelted  us  all 
'  the  way,  lost  its  unpleasantness  in  the  delightful 
i  society  of  my  worthy  host  and  his  amiable  wife. 
I  passed  the  night  with  them.  The  doutor  is  a 
S(^otchman,  his  wife  a  Yankee.  The  former  had 
'  seen  many  adventures  in  C'alifomia  and  Oregon 
I  — had  his  face  very  much  slashed  in  a  contest 
with  the  Shasty  Indians  near  the  southern  border 
of  Oregon.  The  latter  had  come  from  the  States, 
a  member  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  mission, 
and  had  consented  to  share  the  bliss  and  ills  of  life 
with  the  adventurous  Gael ;  and  a  happy  little  fam- 
ily  they  were.  Tlic  next  day  Mrs.  Bailey  kindly 
undertook  to  make  me  a  blanket  coat  by  the  time 
I  should  return,  and  the  worthy  doctor  and  myself 
started  for  the  mission.  About  a  milo  on  our 
waj',  we  called  at  a  farm  occupied  by  an  Aineri. 
can,  who  acted  as  blacksmith  and  gunsmith  for 
the  settlement.  He  appeared  to  have  a  good  set  of 
tools  for  his  mechanical  business,  and  plenty  of 
custom.  He  had  also  a  considerable  tract  of 
land  under  fence,  a  comfortable  house  and  out- 
buildings.  A  mile  or  two  farther  on,  we  came 
u|)on  the  cabin  of  a  Yankee  tinker:  an  odd  fel. 
low,  he ;  glad  to  see  a  fellow  countryman,  ready 
to  serve  him  in  any  way,  and  to  discuss  tlie  mat- 
ter of  a  canal  across  the  isthmus  of  Darien,  the 
northern  lights,  English  monopolies,  Symmes's 
Hole,  Tom  Paine,  anl  wooden  nutmegs.  Far. 
tlier  on,  we  came  to  the  catholic  chapel,  a  low 
wooden  bi'ilding,  35  or  40  feet  in  length ;  and  the 
parson  >.",  a  comfortable  log  cabin.  Beyond 
these,  scattCiOi'i  over  five  miles  of  country,  were 
15  or  20  farm  ,  occupied  by  .\merican8,  and  re. 
tired  servants  f  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. — 
Twelve  cr  tliii.-cn  miles  from  the  doctor's,  wc 
came  in  r;iglit  of  the  mission  premises.  They 
consisted  of  three  log  cabins,  a  blacksmith  shop, 
and  outbuildings,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Willa- 
mette, with  large  and  well  cultivated  farms  roiuid 
about ;  and  a  farm,  on  which  were  a  large  frame 
house,  hospitid,  bam,  i&c,  half  a  mile  to  the  east- 
ward. Wc  alighted  at  the  last-named  es'.ablish- 
luent,  anil  were  kindly  received  by  Dr.Whi.c  1 
lady.  This  gentleman  is  the  physician  of  the 
n..sRion,  and  is  thoroughly  devoted  to  the  amclio. 
ration  of  the  physical  condition  of  the  natives. — 
For  this  object,  a  large  hospital  was  being  erected 
near  his  dwelling,  lor  the  reception  of  patients. 
I  pasKcd  the  night  with  the  doctor  and  his  family, 
and  the  following  day  visited|thc  other  mission 
families.  Every  one  appeared  happy  in  his  be. 
nevolcnt  work — Mr.  Daniel  Leslie,  in  preaching 
and  superintending  general  matters ;  Mr.  Cyrus 
Slicpard  in  teaching  letters  to  about  thirty  half, 
breed  and  Indian  children ;  Mr.  J.  C.  Whitccomb 
in  teaehing  them  to  cultivate  the  earth ;  and  Mr. 
Alunsou  Beers  in  blacksniitliiiig  for  the  inisBion 


94 


7\-avels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


and  the  Indiniis,  and  instructing  a  few  yount;  men 
in  his  art.  I  spent  four  or  live  days  with  thrsp 
people,  and  had  a  tino  opportunity  lo  Icurn  their 
cliaracterH,  tlie  ohjcctR  they  liad  in  view,  and  (lie 
means  tliey  tooit  to  aceomphHli  thrin.  Tliey  he. 
long  lo  that  zealous  class  of  Protei^tanlH  called 
Methodist  Episcopalians.  Tlieir  religious  feel. 
ings  are  warm,  an<l  accompanied  with  a  strong 
faith  and  great  activity.  In  energy  and  fervent 
zeal  they  reminded  mc  of  the  I'lynioulli  pil- 
grims.  So  triK  in  heart,  and  so  deeply  interested 
were  they  with  the  principles  and  emotions  which 
they  are  endeavoring  to  incidente  upon  those 
around  them.  Their  hospitality  and  fricrulBliip 
were  of  the  purest  and  most  disnitercstcd  che.rac. 
ter.  I  shall  have  reason  to  remember  long  and 
gratefully  the  kind  and  generous  maimer  in  which 
they  supplied  iny  wants. 

Their  object  in  s<'ttliiig  in  Oregon,  \  iinderst(K)d 
lo  be  twofold  :  the  one  and  principal,  lo  eivili/e 
and  christianize  the  Indians;  the  oilier  and  not 
less  important,  the  establishment  of  religions  and 
literary  institutions  for  the  benefit  of  white  enii. 
grants.  Their  plan  of  operation  on  th(^  Indians, 
is  to  learn  their  various  languages,  forthe|)ur|ioses 
of  itinerant  preaching,  and  of  teaching  the  young 
the  English  language.  The  scholars  are  also  in. 
structcd  in  agriculture,  the  regulations  of  a  well, 
managed  household,  reading,  writinir,  arillmietic 
and  geography.  The  principles  and  duties  of  the 
Christian  religion,  form  a  very  considerable  part  of 
the  systsm.  They  have  succeeded  very  satisfae. 
torily  in  the  several  parts  of  their  undertaking. — 
The  preachers  of  the  mission  have  traversed  the 
wilderness,  and  by  their  untiring  devotion  to  their 
work,  wrought  many  changes  in  the  moral  con- 
dition  of  thee  proverbially  deba"''d  savages ; 
while  with  their  schools  they  have  afTorded  them 
ample  means  for  intellectual  improvement.  They 
have  a  number  of  hundred  acres  of  land  under 
the  plough,  and  cultivated  ehietly  by  the  native 
pupils,  'iliey  have  more  than  100  head  of  horneil 
cBttlc,  30  or  40  horses,  and  many  swine.  They 
have  granaries  filled  with  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and 
peas,  and  cellars  well  stored  with  vegetables. 

A  site  had  already  been  selected  on  the  oppo. 
site  side  of  the  river  for  an  academical  building, 
a  court  of  justice  had  been  organized  by  the  jio- 
pular  voice;  a  military  corps  was  about  to  be 
formed  for  the  protecjion  ol  settlers,  and  other 
measures  were  in  progress,  at  once  showing  that 
the  American,  with  his  characteristic  energy  and 
cntcrpris',  and  the  philanthropist,  with  liis  holy 
aspirations  for  the  betterment  of  the  human  con. 
dition,  had  crossed  the  snowy  barrier  of  the  moun. 
tain,  to  mingle  with  the  iliisliing  waves  of  the 
Pacific  seas  Uic  sweet  music  of  a  busy  and  vir. 
tuous  civilization. 

During  my  tarry  here,  several  American  eiti. 
zcns  unconnected  with  the  mission,  called  on  me 
to  talk  of  their  fatlierland,  and  inquire  as  to  the 
probability  that  its  laws  would  be  extended  over 
them.  1  he  constantly  re|)catcd  inquiries  were, 
"  AVhy  are  we  left  without  protection  in  this  part 
of  our  country's  <lomain  ?  Why  are  foreigners 
|K3rmittcd  to  domineer  over  American  citizens, 
drive  their  traders  from  the  country,  and  make 
us  as  dependent  on  them  for  the  clothes  wc  wear 
as  pre  their  own  apprenticed  slaves  ?"  I  could 
return  no  answer  to  theso  questions,  exculpatory 


of  this  nutiiinal  delinqueney,  and,  therefore,  ad. 
vist'd  them  to  emlwdy  their  grievances  in  a  peti. 
tion,  and  forward  it  to  fongrese.  They  had  a 
meeting  for  that  purpoH<',  and  afterwards  |)ut 
into  my  hand,  a  (Htition  signed  by  67  "  citi- 
zens  of  the  United  States,  and  jiersons  desirous 
of  l)eeomi">g  such,"  the  substance  of  which  was 
a  description  of  the  country — their  unprotected 
situation — and,  in  conclusion,  a  prayer  that  the 
Federal  Government  wouhl  extend  over  them  tho 
protection  and  institutions  of  the  Republic.  Five 
or  six  of  the  Willamette  settlers,  for  some  rea- 
son,  had  not  an  op|>ortunity  to  sign  this  paper. 
The  ('iitliolie  priest  refused  to  do  it. 

Tliise  people  have  put  fifty  or  sixty  fme  fanns 
under  cultivation  in  the  Willamette  valley, 
amidst  the  most  discouraging  circumstances. 
They  havi'  erected  for  themselves  comfortable 
dwellings  and  outbuilding'*,  and  have  herds  of 
excellent  cattle,  which  they  have,  from  time  to 
time,  driven  up  from  California,  at  great  expense 
of  property  and  even  life.  And  the  reader  will 
find  it  ditlieull  to  learn  any  sufticient  reasons  for 
their  being  left  by  the  Covemment  without  the  in- 
stitutions of  civilized  Foeiety.  Their  condition  is 
truly  deplorable.  They  are  liable  to  lie  arrested 
for  debt  or  crime,  and  conveyed  to  the  jails  of 
Canada !  Arrested  on  American  territory  by 
British  ofliccrs,  tried  by  Hrilisb  tribunals,  impri- 
soned in  British  iirisons,  and  hung  or  shot  by  Bri- 
tisli  I'xecutioners  I  They  cannot  trade  witii  the 
Indians.  For,  in  that  case,  the  business  of  Bri- 
tish subjects  is  interfered  with,  who,  by  way  of 
retaliation,  will  withhold  the  supplies  of  clothing, 
household  goods,  &e.,  which  the  settlers  have  no 
other  means  of  obtaining.  Nor  is  this  all.  The 
civil  condition  of  the  territory  being  such  as  vir- 
tually to  prohibit  the  emigr.ition,  to  any  extent, 
of  useful  and  desirable  citizens,  they  have  nothing 
to  anticipate  from  any  considerable  increase  of  their 
numbers,  nor  any  amelioration  of  their  state  to 
look  for,  from  the  accession  "f  female  society. 
In  tho  dcs))eration  incident  to  their  lonely  lot, 
they  take  wives  from  the  Indian  tribes  around 
them.  What  will  Uuhe  ultimate  consequence  of 
this  unpardonable  negligence  on  the  part  of  the 
tiovcrnmrnt  upon  the  future  destinies  of  Oregon 
cannot  be  clearly  predicted.  But  it  is  manifest 
that  it  must  be  disastrous  in  the  highest  degree, 
both  as  lo  its  claims  to  tl;c  sovereignty  of  that 
territory,  e.iid  the  moral  condition  of  its  inha- 
bitants. 

A  Mr.  W.  II.  Wilson,  su|)crintcndent  of  a 
branch  mission  on  Puget's  sound,  chanced  to  he 
at  the  Willamette  station,  whose  iwlite  attentions 
it  aflords  me  pleasure  to  acknowledge.  He  ac- 
companie<l  me  on  a  numlxir  of  excursions  in  the 
valley,  and  to  tho  hights,  for  the  purpose  of 
showing  me  the  country.  I  was  als<j  in<lebted  to 
him  for  much  information  relative  to  llie  ('owelitz 
and  its  valley,  and  the  region  about  the  sound, 
which  will  be  found  on  a  succeeding  page. 

My  original  intention  had  been  lo  pass  the  win- 
ter in  exploring  Oregon,  and  to  have  returned  to 
tiie  States  the  following  summer,  with  the  Amer. 
ican  Fur  traders.  But  having  learned  from  va. 
rious  creditabl(!  sources,  that  little  dependence 
could  lie  placed  upon  meeting  them  at  their  usual 
place  of  rendezvous  on  Green  riv^r,  and  that  tho 
prospect  of  getting  hack  to  the  .States  by  tlial 


in  the  RocTcy  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  etc. 


95 


route  would,  counoqunntly,  l)e  exceedingly  doubt- 
ful, I  felt  e-on»traincd  lo  ubundou  the  uttcmpt. 
My  next  wish  was  to  have  pouc  by  land  to  Cali. 
fornin,  and  thence  hoine  throujrh  the  northern 
States  of  Mexico.  In  order,  however,  to  accom- 
plish this  with  safety,  a  force  of  twenty-five  men 
was  indispensable ;  and  as  that  nunibi>r  could 
not  be  raised,  I  was  compelled  to  |rivc  up  all 
hopes  of  returning  by  (hat  route.  The  last  and 
only  practicable  means  then  of  seeking  home  du- 
ring the  next  twelve!  months,  was  to  go  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  and  ship  tlienoe  for  New  York 
or  California,  as  o|)|x)rtimity  might  oU'er.  One  of 
the  company's  vessels  was  then  lying  at  Vancovrr, 
receiving  a  cargo  of  lumber  for  the  Island  mar- 
ket, and  I  determined  to  take  passage  in  her. 
Under  these  circumstances,  it  behoved  me  to 
hasten  my  return  to  the  C'olumbia.  Accordingly, 
on  the  20th  I  left  the  mission,  virfitcd  Dr.  Bailey 
and  lady,  and  went  to  Mr.  Johnson's  to  take  a 
canoe  flown  the  river.  On  reaching  this  place,  I 
found  Mr.  Lee,  who  had  been  to  the  mission  es- 
tablishment on  the  Willamette  for  the  fall  sup- 
plies of  wheat,  pork,  lard,  butter,  &c.,  for  his 
station  at  the  "  IJallcs."  lie  had  left  th'!  mission 
two  days  before  my  departure,  and  giving  his  ca. 
noc,  laden  with  these  valuables,  in  charge  of  his 
Indians,  proceeded  down  to  (he  highlands  by 
land.  He  had  arrived  at  Mr.  Johnson's,  when  a 
message  reached  him  to  tlie  effi-ct  that  his  canoe 
had  been  upset,  and  its  entire  contents  d'scharged 
into  the  stream.  He  immediately  repaired  to  the 
scene  of  this  disaster,  where  I  found  him  busied 
in  attempting  to  save  some  part  of  his  cargo.  All 
the  wheat,  and  a  part  of  the  other  supplies,  toge. 
ther  with  his  gun  and  other  paraphernalia,  were 
lost.  I  made  arrangements  to  go  down  with  him 
when  he  should  be  ready,  and  left  him  to  call 
upon  a  Captain  Young,  an  American  ex-tradcr, 
who  was  settled  near.  This  gentleman  liad  for- 
merly explored  California  and  Oregon  in  quest  of 
beaver — had  been  plundered  by  the  Mexican  au- 
thorities of  $18,000  or  f 20,000  worth  of  fur; 
and,  wearied  at  last  with  his  ill-luck,  settled  nine 
or  ten  ycors  ago  on  a  small  tributary  of  the  Willa- 
mette  coming  in  from  the  west.  Here  he  has 
erected  a  saw  and  grist  mill,  and  opened  a  farm. 
He  has  been  a  number  of  times  to  California  for 
cattle,  and  now  owns  about  one  hundred  head,  a 
fine  band  of  horses,  swine,  &c.  He  related  to 
mo  many  inciilents  of  his  hardships,  among 
which  the  most  surprising  was,  that  lor  a  num. 
ber  of  years,  the  Hudson  Bay  C'ompany  refused 
to  sell  him  a  shred  of  clothing.  And  as  there  were 
no  other  traders  in  the  country,  ho  was  compelled, 
during  their  pleasure,  to  wear  skins.  A  false  re- 
port that  he  had  been  gtiilty  of  some  dishonorable 
aet  in  CaUfomia  was  the  alleged  cause  for  this 
treatment.  But,  pcrhops,  a  better  reason  woidd 
be,  that  Mr.  Young  occasionally  purchased  lea- 
ver skins  in  the  American  territory.  I  spent  the 
night  of  the  12th  with  the  excellent  old  captain, 
and  in  the  afternoon  of  the  13th,  in  company 
with  my  friend  Mr.  Lee,  descended  the  Willa- 
niettc  as  far  as  the  Falls.  Here  wc  passed  the 
night,  more  to  the  apparent  satisfaction  of  three 
pecks  of  (leas  than  of  ourselves.  These  creature 
comforts  abound  in  Oregon.  But  it  was  not  these 
alone  that  made  our  lodging  at  the  Falls  u  rosy 
circumstance  for  memory's  wastes.    The  melli- 


fluent odor  of  salmon  oflal  regaling  our  nasal  sen- 
sibilities, and  till!  squalling  of  a  copper-colored 
baby,  uttered  in  all  the  sweetesl  intonations  of 
such  instruments,  falling  with  the  livehest  iiotcH 
n\mn  the  ear,  made  me  dream  of  war  to  the  knife, 
till  the  sun  called  us  to  our  day's  travel. 

Five  miles  bt!low  the  Falls,  Mr.  I^ee  and  my- 
self left  the  canoe,  and  struck  across  abfiut  four- 
teen miles  to  an  Indian  village  on  the  bank  of  the 
Columbia  opiiosito  Vancouver.  It  was  a  collec- 
tion of  nuid  and  straw  huts,  surrounded  and 
filled  with  so  much  filth  of  a  certain  description, 
as  to  l)e  smelt  two  hunilred  yords.  We  hired  one 
of  tlies*  cits  to  take  us  across  the  river,  and  at 
sunset  of  the  15th,  were  comfortably  seated  by 
thestovi!  in  "  Bachelor's  HalP'of  Fort  Vancouver. 

The  rainy  season  had  now  thoroughly  set  in. — 
Traveling  any  considerable  distance  in  open  l)oats, 
or  among  the  tangled  underbrush  on  fixit,  or  on 
horseback,  was  quite  impracticable.  1  therefore 
determined  to  avail  myself  of  whatever  other 
irirans  of  information  were  in  my  reach.  And  as 
the  gentleman  in  charge  of  the  various  trading. 
i  |)08ts  in  the  Territory,  had  arrived  at  Vancouver 
to  meet  the  express  from  London.  I  could  not  have 
had,  lor  this  objcst,  a  more  fovorable  opportunity. 
The  information  obtained  from  these  gciulemen, 
and  from  other  residents  in  the  country,  I  have 
relied  on  as  correct,  and  combined  it  with  my  own 
observations  in  the  following  general  account  of 
Oregon ; 

Oregon  Territory  is  Iwunded  on  the  north  by 
the  parallel  of  ;)4  (leg.  '10  min.  north  latitude  ;  on 
the  cast  by  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  on  the  south 
by  the  parallel  of  42  deg.  north  latitude ;  and  on 
the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Mountains  of  Oregon.  DifTcrent  sections  of 
the  great  chain  of  highlands  which  stretches  from 
the  straits  of  Magellan  to  the  Arctic  sea,  have  re- 
ceived difTerent  names — as  the  Andes,  the  Cordil- 
leras,  the  Anahuac,  the  Rocky  and  the  Chipe- 
wayan  Mountains.  The  last  mentioned  appella- 
tion has  been  applied  to  that  jwrtion  of  it  which 
lies  between  the  58  deg.  of  north  latitude  and  the 
Arctic  .Sea.  The  Hudson  Bay  Company,  in  com- 
picting  the  survey  of  the  Arctic  coast,  have  ascer- 
tained that  these  mountains  preserve  a  strongly 
defined  outline  entirely  to  the  sea,  and  hang  in 
towering  cliffs  over  it ;  and  by  other  surveys  have 
discovered  that  they  gradually  increase  in  bight 
from  the  sea  southward.  The  section  to  which 
the  term  Rocky  Momitains  has  lieen  applied,  ex- 
tends from  latitude  58  deg.  to  the  Great  Cap,  or 
southern  pass,  in  latitude  '12  deg.  north.  Their 
altitude  is  greater  than  that  of  any  other  range  on 
the  northern  i)art  of  the  continent.  .Mr.  Thomp- 
son, the  astronomer  of  the  Hudson  B.Co.,  rejiorts 
that  he  found  |ieaks  Ijctwecn  latitudes  53  and  5G 
nortli,  more  than  20,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  That  jiortion  lying  east  of  Oregon,  an  1 
dividing  it  from  tbctjreat  Prairie  Wilderness,  v  1 
be  particularly  noticed.  Its  southern  point  i  m 
the  Wind  River  cluster,  latitude  42  deg.  north, 
and  about  700  mil.^s  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
Its  northern  iioint  is  in  latitude  54  deg.  40  min., 
about  70  miles  north  of  Mount  Browne,  and  about 
400  miles  from  the  same  sea.  Its  general  direc- 
tion between  these  points  is  from  N.  N.  W.  to  S. 
S.  E. 

This  range  is  generally  covered  with  perjictua  1 


96 


Travels  in  the  Great  Wettem  Prairies, 


mowi ;  and  for  this  and  atlier  cauMti  i*  (r<^ncr\11y 
impaisablc  for  man  or  bonBt.  There  arc,  however, 
Bcvcral  gaps  thrnii|(h  which  the  Indiansand  othero 
crosB  to  the  great  Prairie  Wildcme™.  The  nortliem- 
most  in  bctwern  ttio  peaks  Browne  and  Hooker. 
Thin  Ib  used  by  tlic  fur  trade™  in  their  journeys  from 
the  Cohimbia  to  Canada.  Anotlier  hes  U^twccn 
the  head  waters  of  tlie  Flathead  and  the  Marias 
rivem.  Another  runti  from  Lewis  and  Clarko'g  ri- 
ver  to  t)ie  southern  lieud  waters  of  the  Missouri. 
Anotlier  lies  up  Henry's  fork  of  the  Suptin,  in  a 
northeasterly  course  to  tiic  Dig.hom  branch  of  the 
Yellow-stone.  And  still  another,  and  most  im- 
portant of  all,  is  situated  between  Wind  river  cliis. 
ter  and  lying's  mountains. 

There  arc  several  spurs  or  lateral  branches  pro. 
trudinfr  from  the  main  chain,  which  arc  worthy  of 
notice.  The  northernmost  of  these  puts  off  north 
of  Fraser's  river,  and  embraces  the  sources  of  that 
stream.  It  \h  a  broad  collection  of  hights,  8pars<-ly 
covered  with  pines.  Sonic  of  its  tojis  arc  covered 
with  Know  nine  months  of  the  year.  A  spur  from 
I  hese  passes  far  down  between  Fraser's  imd  Colum- 
bi»  rivers.  'I'his  is  a  line  of  rather  low  elevations, 
thickly  clothed  with  pines,  cedar,  &c.  The  high- 
est portions  of  tliem  lie  near  the  Columbia.  Ano. 
ther  spur  puts  out  on  the  south  of  Mount  Hooker, 
and  lies  in  the  bend  of  the  Columbia,  above  the 
two  lakes.  These  are  lofty  and  bare  of  vegetation. 
Another  lies  between  the  Flatliow  and  Flathead 
rivers;  another  between  the  Flathead  and  ijpokan 
rivers ;  another  U'tween  the  Coos-cooskic  and 
Wu^.icakoos  rivers.  These  spurs,  which  lie  be. 
twccn  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia  and  the 
last  mentioned  river,  have  usually  been  cons-dered 
in  connection  with  a  range  running  off  S.  W. 
from  the  lower  part  of  the  Saptin,  and  called  the 
Blue  Mountains.  But  there  are  two  sufficient 
reasons  why  this  is  error.  The  first  is,  that  these 
spurs  are  separate  and  distinct  from  each  other, 
and  ore  all  manifestly  merely  spurs  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  closely  connected  with  them. — 
And  the  second  is,  that  no  one  of  them  is  united 
in  any  one  point  with  the  Blue  Mountains.  They 
cannot  tlicrefore  be  considered  "  part  of  the  Blue 
Mountain  chain,  and  should  not  be  known  by  the 
same  name.  The  mountains  wliicli  lie  between 
the  Wapicakoos  river  and  the  upjicr  waters  of  the 
Saptin,  will  be  described  by  saying  that  they  arc  a 
vast  cluster  of  dark  naked  bights,  descending  from 
the  average  elevation  of  15,(100  feet — the  altitude 
of  the  great  western  ridge — to  aliout  8,000  feet — 
the  elevation  of  the  eastern  wall  of  the  valley  of 
the  Saptin.  The  only  qualifying  fact  that  should 
be  attached  to  this  description  is,  that  there  are  a 
few  small  hollows  among  these  mountains,  called 
"  holes ;"  wliicli,  in  general  appearance,  resemble 
Brown's  hole,  mentioned  in  a  previous  chapter. — 
But  unlike  the  latter,  they  arc  too  cold  to  allow  of 
cultivation. 

The  last  spur  that  deserves  notice  in  this  place 
is  that  which  is  called  the  "  Snowy  Mountains." 
It  has  already  been  described  in  this  work ;  and 
it  can  only  be  necessary  here  to  repeat  that  it 
branches  off  frcm  the  Wind  River  peak  in  lati- 
tude 41  degrees  north,  and  runs  in  un  irregular 
broken  line  to  Cajie  Mendocino,  in  Upper  Call- 
fomia. 

The  Blue  Mountains  are  a  range  of  hights 
which  commence  at  the  Saptin,  about  20  miles 


above  its  junction  with  the  Columbia,  near  the 
•Jfith  liegrec  of  north  latitude,  and  run  south- 
westerly aliout  200  miles,  and  terminate  in  a  bar. 
ren,  rolling  plain.  They  are  separated  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains  by  the  valley  of  the  Saptin, 
and  arc  unconnected  with  any  other  range. — 
Some  of  their  lofticHt  peaks  are  more  than  10,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sen.  Many  beautiful 
valleys,  many  hills  covered  with  bunch  grass, 
and  very  many  exteniivfl  swells  covered  with 
heavy  yellow  pine  forests,  are  found  among  them. 

The  President's  raago  is  in  every  reRjiect  the 
most  interesting  in  Oregon.  It  is  a  part  of  a 
chain  of  highlands,  which  commences  at  Mount 
St.  Elias,  and  gently  diverging  from  the  coast, 
terminates  in  the  aridf  hills  about  the  head  of  the 
(iulf  of  California.  It  is  a  line  of  extinct  volca- 
noes, where  the  fires,  the  evidences  of  whose  in. 
tense  power  are  seen  over  the  whole  surfuco  of 
Oregon,  found  their  principal  vents.  It  has  12 
lofty  peaks;  two  of  which.  Mount  St.  Elias  and 
Mount  Fuirweathor,  lie  near  latitude  55  degrees 
north  ;  and  ten  of  which  lie  south  of  latitude  49 
degrees  north.  Five  of  these  latter  have  received 
names  from  British  navigators  and  traders. 

The  other  five  have  received  from  an  Amcri. 
can  traveler,  Mr.  Kelley,  the  names  of  deceased 
Presidents  of  the  Republic.  Mr.  Kelly,  I  be- 
lieve, was  the  first  individual  who  suggested  a 
name  for  the  whole  range.  For  convenience 
in  description  I  have  adopted  it.  And  altliougli 
it  is  a  matter  in  which  no  one  can  find  reasons 
for  being  very  much  interested,  yet  if  there  is  any 
propriety  in  adopting  Mr.  Kclley's  name  for  the 
whole  chain,  there  might  sccni  to  be  as  much  in 
following  his  suggestion,  that  all  the  principal 
peaks  should  bear  the  names  of  those  distinguished 
men,  whom  the  suffrages  of  the  people  that  own 
Oregon  have  from  time  to  time  called  to  admin- 
ister their  national  government.  I  have  adopted 
this  course.  Mount  Tyler  is  situated  near  lati- 
tude 49  degrees  north,  and  about  20  miles  from 
the  eastern  shore  of  those  waters  between  Vaii- 
couvcr'e  Island  and  the  continent.  It  is  clad 
with  perpetual  snow.  Mount  Harrison  is  situ- 
atcd  a  little  more  than  a  degree  south  of  Mount 
Tyler,  and  about  30  miles  east  by  north  of  Pii- 
get's  Sound.  It  ia  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 
Mount  Van  Buren  stands  on  the  Isthmus  l>e- 
tween  Piiget's  Sound  and  the  Pacific.  It  is  a 
lofty,  wintry  jieak,  seen  in  clear  weather  80  miles 
at  sea.  Mount  Adams  lies  under  the  parallel  of 
45  degrees,  aliout  25  miles  north  of  the  cascades 
of  the  Columbia.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  peaks 
of  the  chain,  clad  with  eternal  snows,  5,000  feet 
down  its  sides.  Mount  Washington  lies  a  little 
north  of  the  44tli  degree  north,  and  about  twenty 
miles  south  of  the  Cascades.  It  is  a  perfect  cone, 
and  is  said  to  rise  17,000  or  18,000  feet  above  tlic 
level  of  the  sea.  Two-thirds  of  its  hight  is  cov- 
ered with  perpetual  snows.  Mount  Jefferson  is 
an  immense  peak  under  latitude  41 J  degrees 
north.  It  received  its  name  from  Lewis  and 
Clark.  Mount  Madison  is  the  Mount  McLaugh- 
lin of  the  British  fur.traders.  Mount  Monroe  in 
in  latitude  43  degrees  20  minutes  north,  and 
Mount  John  Quincy  Adams  is  in  42  degrees  lU 
minutes;  both  covered  with  perpetual  snow. — 
Mount  Jackson  is  in  latitude  41  degrees  10  min. 
utes.    It  is  the  largest  and  loftiest  pinnacle  of  the 


in  the  Rotky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  Sfc. 


97 


Preiidcnt's  range.  This  chain  of  mount&ins  runs 
parallel  with  tho  Rocky  Mountains— between  300 
and  -100  miles  from  them.  Itn  average  lilNtiinor 
from  the  coart  of  the  Paeifie,  nouth  of  hititiulr  II) 
degrees,  is  about  100  milcH.  The  Kpaces  bftw  ron 
the  pcakN  arc  oceupied  by  elevated  liightu.eovercd 
with  an  enorinouH  (rrowtb  of  the  several  HpeciiH 
of  pines  and  tirs,  uiid  the  red  cedar  ;  many  of 
which  rise  300  feet  without  a  limb  ;  nml  are  "five, 
nix,  seven,  eight,  and  even  nine  fathonin  in  eir- 
eumference  at  the  ground. 

On  the  south  siue  of  the  Colnmbia,  at  the  ('as. 
endcH,  a  range  of  low  muuntains  puts  otF  from  the 
President's  range,  and  running  down  parallel  to 
the  river,  terminates  in  u  point  of  land  on  whieh 
Astoria  was  built.  Its  average  bight  is  aUiiit 
1500  feet  aliove  the  river.  Ni'ar  the  Cascadi's 
they  rise  much  higher :  and  in  some  instances 
are  beautifully  castellated.  They  are  generally 
covered  with  dense  pine  and  (ir  forests.  From 
the  north  side  of  the  Cascades,  a  similar  range 
runs  down  to  the  sea,  and  terminates  in  ('aix?  Dis- 
apiw>intment.  This  range  also  is  covered  with 
forests.  Another  range  runs  on  the  brink  of  llic 
i-onst,  from  Cajx;  Mendocino  in  Upper  California 
to  the  Straits  do  Fuca,  These  are  generally  bare 
of  trees.;  irierc  maBws  of  dark  8tratifie<l  rocks, 
piled  many  hundred  feet  in  light.  They  rise  im- 
mediately  from  the  borders  of  the  sea,  and  pre. 
serve  nearly  a  right  line  course,  during  their  en. 
tire  length.  The  lower  portion  of  their  eastern 
sides  arc  clothed  with  heavy  pine;  and  spruce,  lir 
and  cedar  forests. 

I  have  de8cril)ed  on  j)revioUK  ))age8  the  great 
southern  brnneh  of  the  Cobnnliia,  called  .Saptin 
by  the  natives  who  live  on  its  banks,  and  the  val. 
ley  of  volcanic  deserts  tlirough  which  it  riuis,  as 
well  as  the  Cobunbia  and  its  cavernous  vale,  from 
itfl  junction  with  the  Saptin  to  Fort  N'ancouver, 
!)0  miles  from  lliu  sea.  I  shall,  therefore,  in  the 
following  notice  of  the  rivers  of  Oregon,  speak 
only  of  those  |)artK  of  this  and  other  streams,  and 
their  valleys  alsjut  them,  which  remain  undes. 
•ribed. 

That  jKjrtion  of  the  ('olund)ia,  which  lies  alx)ve 
itsjmjction  with  the  Sa|)thi,  latitude  l(i  degrees  i 
B  minutes  north,  is  navigable  for  batteaux  to  the 
lK)at  encampment  at  the  base  of  the  Uoi-kj-  .Moun- 
tains,  alx)Ut  the  53d  degree  of  north  latitude,  a 
distune  by  the  course  of  the  stream,  of  alx)ut 
.1110  miles.  The  ciurent  is  strong,  and  inlcrru))t- 
ed  by  five  considerable  and  several  lesser  rai)i(lH, 
at  which  there  are  short  |)ortages.  The  country  ' 
on  both  sides  of  the  river,  from  its  junction  with 
Uie  Saptin  to  the  mouth  of  the  S|)okan,  is  a  dreary 
waste.  The  soil  is  a  light  yellowish  eom|s)sition 
of  sand  and  clay,  generally  destitute  of  vegelu. 
tion.  Li  u  few  nooks,  irrigated  by  mountain 
streams,  there  are  fovnid  small  patches  of  the 
short  grass  of  the  plains  uitcrsiicrsed  with  another 
species  which  grows  in  tufts  or  bunches  four  or 
five  feet  in  hight.  A  few  shrubs,  us  the  small 
willow,  the  sumac,  and  furze,  upi)ear  in  distant  and 
solitary  groups.  There  arc  no  trees  ;  generally 
noUiing  green  ;  a  mere  brown  drifting  desert ;  as 
fur  as  uic  Oakunagan  Uiver,  208  miles,  a  plain, 
whose  monotonous  desolation  is  relieved  only  by 
the  noble  liver  running  through  it,  and  an  occa. 
sional  cliiV  of  volcunic  rQcksl)ur8tiiig  tlirough  its 
arid  Burfacei  1 


'I      The   river  Oakanagaii  is  a  large,   fine  stream, 
!  originating  in  a  lake  of  the  same  name  situate  in 
1  the  mountains,  alwul  100  miles  north  of  its  mouth. 
The  soil  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  stream  is  gen- 
erally worthless.     Near  its   union,  however,  with 
the  Columbia,  there  arc  a  number  of  small  jdains 
tolerably  well  clothed  with  the  wild  grasses ;  and 
near  its  lake  are  found    hills   covered   with  small 
timlx'r.     On  the  point  oflaiul  between  this  stream 
'  and  the  Columbia,  the  Pacific   Fur  Company,  in 
^1811,   established  a  trading-post.     This,  in  1814, 
passed  by  purchase  into  the  bands  of  the  \.  W. 
Fur  Co.  of  Canada,  and  in    1819,  by  the  union  of 
[  that  body  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  united  company  under 
the  name  of  the   Hudson  Bay   Company.     It  is 
still  occupied  by  them  under  its  old  name  of  Fori 
Oakauagan. 

From  this  i>ost,  latitude  18  deg.  fi  min.,  and 
'  longitude  117  deg.  west,  along  the  Columbia  to 
the  Spokan,  the  country  is  as  devoid  of  wood  an 
'.  that  l)c!ow.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  bold  and 
rocky,  the  stream  is  contracted  within  narrow 
limits,  and  the  current  strung  ami  ve.vei!  wilh  dan- 
gerous e(blies. 

The  .*^])okun   Kiver   rises  among  the  spurs  of 
'  the  Rocky  Mountains  east  southeast  of  the  mouth 
'  of  the  Oakauagan,  and,  after  a  course  of  alwut 
[  50  miles,  I'ornisthe  Pointed  Heart  Lake  95  miles 
ill  lenglb,  and  10  or  li!  in  width;  and  running 
thence  in   a   noiihwesterly   direction    about    120 
;  miles,   emptiesi    into   the  "Columbiti.     /Miout    fiO 
j  miles  from  its  iismth,  the  I'licifie  Fur  Company 
j  erected   a    trading-post,   which    they   called    the 
'  "  SjKikaii   House."     Tlicir  successors  arc  under. 
,  stofid  to  have  abandoned  it.     .Vliovc  the  Pointed 
Heart    Lake,  the  banks  of  this  river  are  usually 
high  and  Ixjld   miiuiitains,   and  sparsely  covered 
with  pines  and  cedars  of  a  fine  si/c.     Around  the 
lake    there    are.  some  grass  lands,    many  edible 
rrxits,    and  wild   fruits.     On   all    the    remaining 
courst  of  Ibe  sireani,  there  arc  found  at  intervals, 
|iroduelive  s|)Ols  c.qiable  of   yielding    moderate 
,  crops  of  the  grains  and  vegetables.     'I'here  is  con- 
siderable pine  and  cedar  timlier  on  tb(;  neighbor- 
ing hills ;  and  near  the  ( 'oluinbia  arc  large  forests 
growing  on  sandy  plains.     In  a  word,  the  Spokau 
valley  can  be  extensively  used  as  a  grazing  dis- 
trict; but  ils  agricultural  capabilities  arc  limited. 
Mr.  Spauldiiig.  an  American  missionar}',  made  a 
journey  across  this   valley   to    Fort    Colville,  in 
.Alarch  of  1837;  in  relation  to  which,  he  writes 
to    ^Ir.    Ia'vI    ChainlMTlain    of    the     Sandwich 
Islands,    us    follows :      "  The    third    day    from 
home  we  came    to    snow,    and    on    the  fourth 
came  to  what  I  call  quicksands — j  ains  mixed 
with  pine  trees  and   rocks.     Tin;  l)ody  of  snow 
ujion  the  plains,  was  intcrsjicrsed  with  baresiKits 
under  the  standing  pines.     For  these,  our  ]K)or 
animals  would  plunge  whenever  they  came  near, 
after  wallowing  in  tlie  snow  and  mud  until  the 
last  nerve  seemed  about  exhausted,  naturally  ex. 
[lecting  a  rcstinjj-placc  for  their  struggling  limbs; 
but  they  were  no   less   disappointed  and   discour. 
aged,  doubtless,  than  I  was  astonished  to  sec  the 
noble  animals  go  down  by  the  side  of  a  rock  or 
pine  tree,  till  their  bodies  struck  the  surface." — 
The  same  gentleman,  ui  speaking  of  this  valley 
and  the  country  generally,  lying  north  of  the  Co- 
lunibiu,  and  claiincd  by  tho  United  States  and 


08 


Travels  in  the  Oreat  Western  Praine$, 


Great  Britain,  lays ;  "  It  is  |)ro1>a))ly  not  worth  I 
hair  the  nionry  and  time  that  will  be  spent  in  talk- 
inpf  about  il." 

The  country  from  the  Spokan  to  Kettle  Falls,  ij 
ia  broken  intu  hillRund  niountuins  thinly  covered  ; 
with     wood,    and    picturesi|UP    in    oiipearance; 
among  which  there  is  supposed  to  Ix;  no  urable  ! 
land.     A  little  below  Kettle  Fulls,  in  latitude  4ti  [ 
dcg.  37  mill,  is  u  trading.post  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  called  Fort  Colville.     Mr.  Spaulding  |' 
thut  describeii  it  :     "  Fort  Colville  is  SdU  miles  >: 
west  of  north  from  this,  (his  stution  on  the  Clear  i 
AVater,)   three  duy's  below   Flatland  River,  one  ' 
day  above  .'^poii-iii,  UK)  miles  aliovc  Oakanugan,  ' 
and  3. Ill  miles  above  Fort  W.illawalla.     It  stands  ' 
on  a  small  pi  lin  of  2,1100  or  3,000  acres,  said  to  be  !i 
the  only  tillable  land  on  the  Columbia,   above  i 
Vancouver.   There  are  one  or  two  barns,  a  black.  | 
smith  shop,  a  good  flouring  mill,  several  houses 
for  laborers,  and  nood  buildings  for  the  gentlemen  ' 
in  charge.  .Mr.  .McDonald  raises  this  year  (1837,) 
about  3,500  bushels  of  different  grains — such  as  j| 
wheal,  peas,  barley,  oats,  corn,  buckwheat,  &c., 
and  us  many  potatoes  ;  has  8J  head  of  cattle,  and  ; 
100  hoys.     This  post  furnishes  supplies  of  provis.  i, 
ion*  fur  a  great  many  forts  north,   south,  and  r 
west.     The  country  on  both  sides  of  the  stream  |i 
from  Kettle  Fulls  to  within  four  miles  of  the  lower  i 
Lake,    is  covered  with    dense    forests    of  pine,  jj 
•prucc,  and  small  birch.     The  northwestern  shore 
is  rather  low,  but  the  southern  high  and  rocky. —  i 
In  this  distance,  there  are  several  tracts  of  rich  ! 
bottom  land,  covered  with  u  kind  of  creeping  red  , 
clover,   and  the  while    species   coinmon  to   the 
states.     The  lower  lake  of  the  Columbia,  is  about  ; 
35  miles  in  length  and  four  or  five  in  breadth. —  i 
Its  shores  are  bold,  and  clad  with  a  heavy  growth  i 
of  pine,  spruce,  &.p.     From  these  waters  the  voy.  h 
ager  obtains  the  first  view  of  the  snowy  bights  in  ] 
the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountaiiifl.  \\ 

The  Flalhcad  River  enters  into  the  Columbia  a  | 
short  distance  nl)ovp  Fort  Colville.     It  is  as  long  1 
and  discharges  nearly  as  imieh  water  as  that  pari  j 
of  Columbia  aliove  their  junction.     It  rises  near  i; 
the  sources  of  the  .Missouri  and  Saseatchawinc. —  1; 
The  ridges  which  separate  them   arc  said  to  be  |l 
easy  to  pass.     Il  falls  into  the  Columbia  over  a  r 
confused  heap  of  iimiieiiBe  rockw,  just  above  the  .. 
place  where  the   latter  stream    forms  the   Kettle  ;, 
Falls  in  its  jiassage  through  a  sjiur  of  the  Rocky  ' 
Mountains.     About   100  miles   from  its  mouth,  i; 
the  Flathead  River  forms  a  lake  31!  miles  long  and 
seven  or  eight  wide.     It  is  called  Lake  Kullers. 
pelm.     A  rich  and  Ix-auliful  country  spreads  off 
from  it  in  all  directions  to  the  bases  oi'  lolty  iiioun-  ', 
tains   covered   with   iierpetual    snows.     Forty  or 
fifty   miles  aliove    this  lake,    ia    the   "  Flalliead  !; 
House" — a  trading  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com.  ij 
pany.  '  j, 

McGilhvray's  or  Flat  Bow  River,  rises  in  the  li 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  running  a  tortuous  west.  ; 
eriy  course  alxjiit  300  miles,  among  the  snowy  : 
hights  and  some  exieiisive  and  Komcwhat  ])roduc-  ^ 
live  vallies,  enters  the  Columbia  four  miles  IxOow 
the  Iiower  Lake.  Its  banks  are  generally  moun. 
tainous,  and  in  some  places  covered  with  pine  for-  ; 
ests.  On  this  stream,  also,  the  indefatigable  Brit.  !: 
ish  fur  traders  have  a  jiost,  "  Fort  Kootania"-— sit.  ji 
uated  about  130  miles  from  its  mouth.  Between  !' 
the  lower  and  upper  lakes  of  the  Columbia,  are  jj 


"  The  Straits,"  a  narrow,  compreiwcd  passage  of 
the  river  among  jutting  rocks.  It  is  four  or  fivo 
miles  in  length,  and  has  a  current  swift,  whirling, 
and  difficult  to  stem.  The  upper  hike  is  of  Ichs 
dimensions  than  the  lower  ;  but,  if  |)ouible,  sur. 
rounded  by  more  broken  and  romantic  scenery — 
forests  overhung  by  lofty  tiers  of  wintry  moun- 
tains, from  which  rush  a  thousand  torrents,  fed 
by  the  melting  snows. 

Two  mile*  above  this  lake,  the  Columbia  runs 
through  n  narrow,  rocky  channel.  This  place  is 
called  the  Ixiwer  Dalles.  The  shores  arc  strewn 
with  immense  quantities  of  fallen  timber,  among 
which  still  stand  heavy  and  impenetrable  forests. 
Thirty. five  miles  above  is  the  Upper  Dalles  ;  the 
waters  are  crowded  into  u  compreised  channel, 
among  hanging  and  slippery  rocks,  foaming  and 
whirling  fearfully.  A  few  miles  above  this  place, 
is  the  head  of  navigation — "  The  Boat  encamp, 
ment,"  where  the  traders  leave  their  batteaux,  m 
their  overland  journevi  to  Canada.  The  coun- 
try from  the  ujiper  lake  to  this  place,  is  a  collec- 
tion of  mountains,  thickly  covered  with  pine  and 
spruce  and  fir  trees  of  very  large  size.  Here 
commences  the  "  Rocky  Mountam  portage"  to 
the  navigable  waters  on  the  other  side.  Its  truck 
runs  leading  up  a  wide  and  cheerless  valley ;  on 
the  north  of  which,  tiers  of  mountains  rise  to  a 
great  hight,  thickly  studded  with  immense  pines 
and  cedars  j  while  on  the  south,  are  seen  towering 
cliffs  partially  covered  with  mosses  and  stinted 
pines,  over  which  tumble,  from  the  ices  above,  nu- 
merous niid  noisy  cascades.  Two  daya'  travel  up 
this  desolate  valley,  brings  the  traveler  to  "  La 
Grande  Cote,"  the  jirincipal  ridge.  This  they 
climb  in  live  hours.  Around  the  base  of  this 
ridge,  the  trees — pines,  &.C.,  are  of  enormous  size. 
But  in  ascending,  they  decreas<"  in  size,  till  on  the 
summit  they  beeome  little  else  than  shrubs. 

On  the  table  land  of  this  hight,  are  found  two 
lakes  a  few  hundred  yards  apart ;  the  waters  of 
one  of  which,  flows  ilown  the  valley  ju.st  describ- 
ed to  the  Columbia,  and  thence  to  the  North  I'a- 
eifie  ;  while  those  of  the  other,  forming  the  Rocky 
Mountain  River,  run  thence  into  the  Athabasca, 
and  thence  through  Peace  River,  the  (ireat  Slave 
Lake,  and  McKenzie's  River  into  the  Northern 
Arctic  t)cean.  The  scenery  around  these  lakes 
is  highly  interesting.  In  the  north,  rises  .Mount 
Browne  1U,000  feet,  and  in  the  south,  Mount 
Hooker,  15,700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. — 
In  the  west,  descends  a  vast  tract  of  secondary 
mountains,  bare  and  rocky,  and  noisy  with 
tumbling  avalanches.  In  the  vales  arc  groves  of 
the  winter  loving  pine.  In  the  east  roll  away 
undulations  of  barren  hights  beyond  the  range  of 
sight.  It  seems  to  be  the  very  citadel  of  desola- 
tion ;  where  the  god  of  the  north  wind,  elaborates 
his  icy  streams  and  frosts  and  blasts  in  every  sea- 
son  oi'  the  year. 

Frazcr's  river  rises  between  latitudes  55  degrees 
and  5()  degrees  north,  and  after  a  course  of  about 
150  miles  nearly  due  south,  falls  into  the  straits  dc 
Fuca,  under  latitude  49  degrees  north.  It  is  so 
much  obstructed  by  rapids  and  falls,  as  to  be  of 
little  value  for  puriKjses  of  navigation.  The  face 
of  the  country  about  its  mouth,  and  for  50  miles 
above,  is  mountainous  and  covered  with  dense 
forests  of  white  pine,  eeilar  and  other  ever-green 
trees.    The  soil  ia  an  indifferent  vegetable  depu 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  tfc. 


mte  G  or  7  inrliM  in  drplli,  rMlin.;  on  n  utrnliirn 
of  dinil  <ir  rcMfHc  ijrixvi'l.  TIh^  wIi'>Ip  rctniuTiinij 
jiortlnn  of  the  Viill^y  in  unld  to  hr  cut  xvilli  low 
monnliiins  rimnin.j  iiorlliwrstwiirdly  iinii  wmili- 
cimlwiirclly  ;  tiinoiiir  wliicli  nrc  iininrtiHi'  triiolH  of 
marshcR  unil  lakrH,  rormnl  by  (-old  torri'ntii  lioiii 
the  litglitH  tluit  rncirrlii  (liciii.  'I'lu'  Hdil  not  Uiuh 
ocrii|>ir(l,  In  liKi  poor  lor  BUi;roanful  cidtlviition. — 
Mr.  .Miu'gillivruy.  Ilin  pu-rnon  in  cliurijp  nl  I'ort 
Alcx-indiiii,  in  i&i"!,  hhvn  :  "  All  tlie  vo^clidili'ri 
wo  plimted,  iiotwilliHtnnJinfr  llio  ntinost  cure  itiid 
precaution,  nearly  fiiiltd  ;  nnd  the  UbI  prop  of  po. 
tiilom  did  not  violil  oui>-lunrtli  of  llic  Kcrd  plant- 
fd."  'I'lie  linilior  of  IIiIh  tvi/mii  coiiHiHts  of  all  Ilic 
variclicR  of  llic  tir,  tlio  Hprure,  pini',  poplar,  wil- 
low, cedar,  cyprnB,  hirdi,  and  ulilcr. 

The  oliniile  in  very  pccidiar.  'I'lir spring  opcrm 
aljoiit  the  middle  of  .\pril.  l''roni  iIiIh  time  tlic 
Wi'allier  Ib  delii,'litfiil  till  tlie  end  C)f  .May.  In 
.Itmo  till'  Hontli  wind  blown,  and  brin^fl  ineiHBant 
nins.  Ill  July  and  .Xu^iist  lli"  licit  is  almost  in- 
Hupp')rtable.  In  .Sept(!niber,  tlie  whole  valley  is  en- 
velopcd  in  fogs  HO  dense,  that  olijeels  lll!l  y  irdj  dis- 
tant cannot  be  seen  till  10  o'clock  in  the  day.  In 
October  the  It'aves  I'lianj;!' their  color  and  hejrm 
to  fall.  In  November,  the  lakes,  and  portioiis  of 
the  rivers  are  frozen.  The  winter  months  briiiij 
snow.  It  is  seldom  severely  cold.  The  mercury 
in  Fuhrenlicil's  scale  sinks  a  few  days  only,  as  low 
ti»  10  or  I'J  degrees  lielow  zero. 

Til, it  part  of  Oregon  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Shmillamen  River,  and  on  the  east  by  Oakanairan 
nnd  ('ohinibia  Uivers,  south  by  the  Columliia, 
and  west  by  the  President's  Uaiiire,  is  a  broken 
plain,  partially  covered  with  the  Klmrt  and  biinrli 
({rassfs ;  but  so  destitute  of  water,  that  a  small 
portion  only  of  it.  can  ever  he  depastur<'d.  Tlu^ 
e  'em  and  middle  |)orlioiis  of  it,  are  destitute  of 
timber  ; — a  mere  siinhurnt  waste.  The  northern 
part  has  a  few  wooded  hills  and  slnams,  and  prai. 
rie  valleys.  Anion;;  the  lower  hills  of  the  I'resi- 
dent's  Ranije,  too,  there  are  considerable  pine  and 
I'lr  forests;  and  rather  extensive  prairies,  watered 
by  small  mountain  streams.  liut  nine.tcntlis  of 
the  whole  surface  of  this  part  of  Orejjon,  is  a 
worlhleBS  desert. 

The  trad  Iniunded  north  by  the  Cidumbia,  east 
by  the  Ulue  .Mountains,  south  by  the  iJd  parallel 
of  north  latitude,  and  west  by  tlie  I'resident's 
Uan;jp,  is  a  plain  of  vast  rolls  or  swells,  of  a  lif;ht. 
yellowish,  sandy  clay,  partially  covered  with  the 
short  and  bunch  (jrasses.  mixed  with  tlii'  prickly 
pear  and  wild  wormwood.  Hut  water  is  so  very 
scarce,  that  it  can  never  be  frenerally  fed  ;  unless 
indeed,  as  some  travelers  in  their  praises  of  this 
region  seem  to  Buppo3<',  the  animals  that  usually 
live  by  eating  and  drinking,  slionld  be  able  to  (lis, 
pense  with  the  latter,  in  a  idimate  where  nine 
months  in  the  year,  not  a  particle  of  riiii  or  dew 
falls,  to  moisten  a  soil  as  dry  and  loose  as  a  heap 
of  ashes.  l)i\  the  banks  of  the  liiilion,  John 
Days,  Uinatalla  and  Wallawalla  Kivers — wliieh 
have  an  average  length  of  3i)  miles — there  are. 
without  doubt,  extensive  tracts  of  grass  in  the 
neighlxirhood  of  water.  Hut  it  is  also  true  that 
not  more  than  a  filth  part  of  the  surface  within 
25  miles  of  these  streams,  bears  grass  or  any 
other  vegetation.  The  |)ortion  also  which  borders 
the  Columbia,  produces  some  grass.  Unt  of  a 
Btrip  (i  mileii  in  width,  and  extending  from  the 


Dallps  to  IliP  month  of  the  .'<nptiu,  not  an 
Imndredlh  part  bears  the  grasses  ;  and  thn  aideH 
sides  of  the  eliasm  of  the  rivrr  are  so  prpripitoUB, 
that  not  a  fiftieth  part  of  Ibis  can  be  fed  by  nni- 
mals  which  drink  at  that  stream.  In  proceeding 
Kouthward  on  the  head  waters  of  thn  small 
streams.  John  Days  and  I'matalla,  the  face  of  the 
plain  rises  grailiially  into  vast  irregular  swelli, 
(lestiliile  of  timber  and  water.  On  the  lilua 
.MoiilittiiiB  are  a  few  pine  and  spruce  tr(H.'s  of  an 
inferior  growth.  On  tlif  right,  tower  the  whitu 
peaks  ami  thickly  wnided  hills  of  the  I'resiilent'ii 
Uail^e.  Thp  space  southeast  of  the  llhio  .Moim- 
t  tins  is  a  barren  thirNty  waste,  of  light,  sandy  and 
idayey  soil — strongly  uupregnated  with  nitre.  A 
lew  small  Btreims  run  among  tin-  sand  hills.  Uul 
they  arc  W)  strongly  impregnated  with  various 
kinds  of  salts.  IIS  to  be  unfit  for  use.  These  brooks 
empty  into  the  lakes,  the  waters  of  whi(di  are  Bait- 
er than  the  ocean.  NcMr  latitude  13  degrees  north, 
the  Klamet  Uiver  risCB  and  runs  westerly  through 
the  I'residcnt'n  Kiiiige.  On  these  waters  arc  a 
few  productive  valleys.  Hut  westwardly  from 
them  to  the  .Sajitin  the  country  Ib  dry  and  worth- 
less. 

The  part  of  ( (regon  lying  between  the  ,Slrait« 
de  l''uea  on  the  north,  the  I'residenls'  Ranjfo 
on  till!  east,  the  Columbia  on  the  south,  and  the 
ocean  on  the  west,  is  thickly  covered  with  pines, 
cedars  and  lirs  of  extraordinary  size  ;  and  iH'neath 
these,  with  a  growth  of  hriisli  and  brambles  that 
defy  the  most  vigorous  foot  to  penetrate  them. 
There  are  indeed  along  the'  hnnkt  of  the  Cnluin. 
bia,  strips  of  prairie  v,>rying  from  a  few  rods  to  3 
miles  in  width,  and  oftin  several  miles  in  length  ; 
and  even  .imicbt  the  forests  are  found  a  few  open 
s|)accs.  The  banks  of  the  Cowclitz,  too,  are  de- 
imded'  of  timber  for  -1(1  miles;  and  around  the 
■Straits  de  Fucaand  I'ugets  Sound,  are  large  tracts 
of  open  country.  Hut  the  wliole  tract  lying  with- 
in tlie  lioimdaries  just  defined,  is  of  little  valuii 
exee|)t  for  its  timber.  The  forests  are  so  heavy 
and  so  matted  with  branibles,  as  to  require  the 
;  arm  of  a  Hercules  to  clear  a  farm  of  100  acres  in 
an  ordinary  lifetime;  and  the  mass  of  timber  in 
so  great  tint  an  atteinjit  to  subdue  it  by  girdling 
would  result  in  the  production  of  another  forest 
before  the  ground  could  be  disencumbered  of 
what  was  thus  killed.  The  small  prairies  among 
the  woods  are  covered  with  wild  grasses,  and  arc 
useful  iiB  pastures.  The  soil  of  these,  like  that 
of  the  timbered  portions,  is  a  vegetable  mould,  8 
or  10  inches  in  thickness,  resting  on  a  stratum  ot 
hard  blue  clay  and  gravel.  The  valley  of  the 
Cowclitz  is  i>oof — the  soil,  thin,  loose,  and  much 
washed,  can  he  used  as  pasture  gromid.s  for  30 
I  miles  up  the  stream.  At  aliout  that  distance 
some  tracts  of  fine  land  occur.  The  prairies  on 
the  banks  of  the  Columbia  would  1)3  valuable 
land  for  agricultural  purposes,  if  they  were  not 
""iierally  overflown  by  the  freshets  in  June — tiie 
,  .  ■  >  !i  of  all  the  year  when  crops  are  most  injur, 
ed  by  such  an  occurrence.  -Vnd  it  is  impusBible 
to  dyke  out  the  w.itcr  ;  for  the  soil  rests  U|xin  an 
iinnieiise  bed  of  gravel  and  quicksand,  throujrh 
I  which  it  will  Icaeh  in  spite  of  siieh  obstructions. 
'  The  tract  of  the  territory  lying  between  the 
.  ('olumbia  on  the  north,  the  I'residentB'  range  on 
I  the  east,  the  parallel  of  -12  deg.  of  north  latitude 
|l  on  the  uouth,  and  the  ocean  on  the  west,  is  the 


100 


Travels  in  the  Qrtal  Weilern  Prmrio, 


iiUMt  beautiful  and  vuluubln  portion  nt'  llioOr(!|;on 
Territory-  A  k'""'  idea  "I  III"  form  of  jtN  nurfuce 
may  Im'  dirivctl  from  a  vii'W  of  \\n  moiinliiiiiH 
nn(l  riv(TH  hh  laid  dn'.vii  on  tlii'  map.  On  llir 
Noiilli  tower  tlir  liiglilH  of  the  Snowy  MoimtainH; 
on  till-  wi'Ht  the  naked  pealtH  of  the  eoant  ran(fr; 
on  tlie  north  tiie  green  peiikn  of  the  river  ranms 
and  on  tlio  east  the  lofty  Nliiiiini;  coiich  of  the 
PreHidentii'  range, — around  »•!•  iw^  frozen  hum* 
ehiKler  ii  vaHt  oolleetion  of  minor  moniitainH, 
elad  with  the  miirhtiest  pini^  an<l  ecMJar  forcHlH  on 
the  faee  of  the  ciirth  I  'I'hr  prineipal  riveni  are 
the  Klamct  and  the  I'mpqna  in  the  Hoiith  wcnI, 
and  tlie  Williimette  in  the  north. 

Tlie  I'lnpqiia  enleiH  Ihew  a  in  lalitn(«'  13  di'|r. 
.10  min.  .\.  Il  iN  Ihree.foiirthK  of  a  mile  in  width 
at  itH  month  ;  water  L>J  fathomn  on  its  liir ;  the 
tide  !^ts  np  .'III  milrn  from  the  Kea  ;  itn  ImidcH  at 
rteep  and  covered  with  pinew  and  eodarc,  <.Ve. 
Aliove  tide-  water  thi!  Htrram  is  broken  by  rapids 
and  fallM.  Il  ban  a  westerly  oourse  of  about  HID 
miles.  The  face  of  X\\r  eonnlry  aliout  it  in  wnie. 
what  broken  ;  in  wiine  pariK  covered  with  heavy 
|)ine  anil  rtdar  limber,  in  ullic  rtt  with  (jrnsd  only  ; 
Haid  to  l«!  a  fine  v^'.ley  for  cidlivatinn  and  poHliir. 
age.  The  piiiewon  thin  river  ifro'v  to  an  enorntfais 
size  :  U.'iO  feet  in  hi|r|il — and  Ironi  LI  lo  more  than 
.SO  feet  in  c'reiimferenoe  ;  !lie  c.jncH  or  need  vch. 
Htls  uro  in  the  fonn  of  an  e(r(j,  and  often  tinuH 
more  than  a  foot  in  length  ;  the  Bcedn  are  as  large 
as  the  castor  bean.  Farther  mntli  in  another  stream, 
wliieh  joins  the  ocean  !J3  milen  from  the  outlet  of 
the  l'm|H|ua.  .\t  its  moulh  are  niimy  biiyf  ;  and 
the  surrounding  conn  try  is  Iihm  broken  iliaii  the 
valley  of  the  I'Mipqua. 

Farther  south  Ktill,  is  another  Hlream  called  the 
Klamct.  It  rises,  as  is  said,  in  tla^  plain  cast  of 
Mount  ^(adison,  and  rnmiing  a  westerly  eonrHe 
of  150  miles,  enters  the  ocean  Id  or  .'id  miles 
south  of  the  I'mpqua.  The  |iinc  and  cedar  disa|i. 
l)ear  upon  this  stream;  and  instead  of  llietn  are 
foimd  a  myrtaceous  tree  of  small  size,  whieli 
when  shaken  by  the  least  bi-eeze.  ditfiises  a  deli, 
eious  fragrance  through  the  groves.  'I'lie  face  of 
the  volley  is  g'  itly  undulating,  and  in  every  re- 
spect  desirable  for  eullivation  and  grazing. 

The  Willumetto  rises  in  the  I'residcnis"  range.  • 
near   the   sources  of  the    Klamet.     Its   general 
course   is  mirth  northwest.     Its  length  is  some. 
thing  more  than  :2dd  miles.     It  falls  into  the  Co. ' 
lumbia  by  two  mouths ;  the  one  8.'>  and  the  ollu  r 
70  miles  from  the  8<'ii.     The  arable  |K)rlion  of  the  ; 
vedleyof  this  river  is  alxiut  l.")0  miles  long,  by  (il) 
in   width.     It  is   bounded   on  tin"   west  liy  low  \ 
wooded  hills  of  the  coast  range;  on  the  south  by 
tlic   highlands  around    the   ti])per   Wiiters  of  the 
Umpqua  ;  on   the  east  by  the  I'rcsidents'  range ;  : 
and  on  the  north  by  the  mountains  that  run  ak)ng 
the  Bouthern  bank  of  the  Columbia.     Its  general 
appearance  as  seen   from  the  hights,  is  that  of  a 
rolling,  open  plain,  intersected  in  every  directien  I 
by   ridges  of  low  nio\mtains,   and  long   lines  of 
evergreen  timlx>r;  and  dotted  here  and  there  with 
a  grove  of  white  oaks.    The  soil  is  a  rich  vcgeta-  : 
blc  mould,  two  or  three  feet  deep,  resting  on  a  j 
stratum   of  coarse    gravel  or  clay.     The    prairie 
portions  of  it  are  capable  of  prodncitig,  «'ith  good 
cultivation,  from  20  to  30  bushels  of  wheal  to  the 
acre;  and  other  small  grains  in  pro|>ortion.    Corti 
cannot  be  raised  witiiout  irrigation.    The  vcgeta-  i; 


blcN  common  to  inch  latitudcn  yield  abundantly, 
and  of  the  IxRl  quality.  The  uplands  have  nn 
inferior  soil,  and  are  covered  with  such  nn  rnor. 
iitiins  growth  of  |iiiiih,  cedars  and  lirs,  that  the 
expense  of  clearing  Would  be  greatly  lieytaid 
their  value.  Those  tracts  of  ihe  second  iMittom 
lands,  wbirh  are  covered  willi  liiiilsM',  might  lu- 
worth  subduing,  but  lorn  specieHof  fern  growing 
nn  theiit,  wliich  is  no  dillienlt  to  kill  as  to  rctider 
thcnt  iiearlv  worthless  for  agricultural  pur|ioscM. 

The  elimale  of  ihc  country  iM'tween  the  I'resi. 
denls'  range  and  the  sea,  is  very  tcni|>ernte.  From 
till'  middle  of  \\m\  lo  the  niidiUe  of  October,  the 
Westerly  wiiiils  prevail,  and  Ihe  weather  is  warm 
iiiid  dry.  .Searei  ly  a  drop  of  rain  falls.  Uiiring 
Ihc  reinainiler  ol  the  year  the  southerly  winds 
blow  continually,  atid  bring  rains;  snmeiimes  in 
bowers,  and  at  others  in  terrible  storms,  that 
continue  lo  pour  down  incessantly  for  n  ntnnber 
of  weeks. 

There  is  scarcely  any  freezing  weather  in  this 
section  ol  Oregon.  Twice  williin  the  las!  fnrlv 
years  the  Columbia  has  been  frozcit  over;  bnl  lltet 
was  eliielly  caused  by  the  iieeiimnlation  of  ice 
from  Ihe  upper  country.  The  grasses  grow  iliir- 
ing  the  winter  months,  and  wither  to  hay  in  the 
stiniiner  lime. 

The  mineral  resources  <d'  Oregon  have  not 
been  inviHtigated.  tireat  ipiantities  of  biltiininons 
coal  have  however  been  discovered  on  I'ligel's 
Sound,  and  on  the  Willuntette.  Salt  springs  also 
abound;  and  other  fountains  highly  impregnated 
with  snlpliiir,  soda,  iron.  &  c.  are  numerous. 

There  are  tiiaiiy  wild  fruits  in  the  territory  that 
woiilil  be  verv  ilesirable  for  cultivation  in  Ihe  gar. 
dens  III  Ihe  Slates.  Among  these  are  a  very  large 
and  delicious  strawberry — the  servier  berry — a 
kind  of  whortli'lterry — and  a  cranberry  growing 
on  bushes  I  or  .1  feet  in  bight.  The  crab  apple, 
choke  cherrv,  and  thontls'rry  arc  common.  Of 
the  wilil  animals,  ibcre  are  the  white  tailed,  black 
tailed,  jiiniping  and  moose  deer;  the  elk;  red 
and  black  and  grey  wolf;  the  black,  brown,  and 
grisley  bear;  tlie  moitnlain  sheep;  black,  white, 
red  and  tui.ved  foxes  ;  beaver,  lynxes,  martin,  ol. 
lers,  minks,  iiitisUrals,  wolvertnes,  marmot,  er- 
mines. wiHidrals,  and  Hie  small  ciirleil  tailed  short 
eared  dog,  coniiiioii  among  Ihc  Chip|H;ways. 

t)f  the  feathered  tribe,  there  an^  Ihe  goose,  lite 
brant,  several  kinds  of  cranes,  the  swan,  many 
varieties  of  the  duck,  hawks  of  several  kinds, 
plovers,  white  eagles,  ravens,  crows,  vultures, 
thrush,  gills,  wood|)eckers,  pheasants,  jielicuns, 
partridges,  grouse,  snowbirds,  &c. 

In  Ihe  rivers  and  lakes  arc  a  very  superior  quality 
of  salmon,  brook  and  salmon  trout,  sardines,  stur- 
geon, rock  cod,  the  hair  seal,  &e. ;  and  in  the  bays 
and  inlets  along  the  coast,  are  the  sea  otter  and  an 
inferior  kind  of  oyster. 

The  trade  of  (Irejron  is  limited  entirely  to  the 
operations  of  the  Kritish  Hudson  Bay  Coitipany. 
\  eoni^ise  aecounl  of  this  association  is  therefore 
deemed  opposite  in  this  place. 

A  charter  was  granted  by  Charles  S?d  in  K70, 
to  certain  Hritisli  subieets  associated  under  the 
name  of  "  The  Hudson's  Bay  ( 'ompany,"  in  virtue 
of  which  they  were  allowed  thecvclnstve  privilege 
of  establishing  trading  factorie.,  i  he  Hudson's 
Bay  and  its  tributary  rivers.  '  n".  'ler  Ihe  grant, 
the  comjiany  took  jwincssioii  ot  liic  '.crritory,  and 


in  ihe  Hoeloj  Monnlmnt,  the  Oref(on  Trrrilor;/,  fti; 


]01 


•nioyci)  iu  Irailc  williniit  ii|i|x)Hitioii  till  I'iH'  ; 
wlicn  wnii  oruBiir/.i(l  11  |H)\vtrfiil  riviil  uiirlor  llic 
title  ol'  llic  "  Niirtli  AiiutIi'iiii  Kiir  ( '(iiii|i:iiiy  iit 
Cnniiilii."  'riiin  coinimiiy  wns  cliirfly  ii)Iii|ioh<'(I 
of  t'liiiuiliiiii-lHini  Niili|i'<'tH — iiicii  whoHc  nittivc 
i'iirr|{y  iiii'l  tli»r(iu|r|i  iii'<|imiritiiii('i'  willi  the  lii- 
(liiin  clmractcr,  |H<('uliiirly  (|Uiilllir<l  tluiii  I'nr  (lie 
iliiiiircrH iiMil  lmr<lHlilpH  ol  a  I'nr  liiiiKr'H  lil'c  in  llii' 
frozen  ri(;ioiiH  ol' llriliHli  Aiiierieu.  Actcoidiinjly 
we  WHiii  (iiid  tlie  NorlliweMlcrM  oiilreiicliiiijj  in  en- 
terpri/.e  iind  i  inniereiiil  iiniKirliinee  tlieir  if  km  hc. 
tivt'  neinlilK(r:.i.l  Ilndnon'M  ll.iy  ;  anil  llujeiilDUHitH 
niilnriilly  uriHins;  iMlwrcn  |iarti(»H<i  nilu  iteri,  Icnil. 
ill){  to  the  inoHt  baibiiroiiH  l)attl(H,  lui'l  llienarkiiifi 
unil  liiimini;  each  ollur'M  jotsIh.  'V\i\H  nlale  of 
tliinfTH  in  IH^I,  urrrKteil  tlic  attention  nl'  {'arlitu 
nirnt.  anil  an  net  waHpaHHiil  ennHoliilatiiii;  llie  two 
coiii|ianii-H  into  one,  uiuler  the  title  of  " 'I'lie  lliiil- 
koh'h  Itay  Company." 

'I'liiM  aBHoeiiition  in  now,  nniler  the  operation  of 
their  rliarler,  in  Hole  poMHtKhion  of  all  lliat  Iraet  c' 
roiintry  Uinnded  north  by  the  northern  Arrtie 
Oeoan  ;  eaxthythe  Duvin' StraltK  and  the  Atlantie 
Dreiin;  n'lntli  and  NontliwrMlwardly  liy  the  north. 
cm  bonndary  of  the  Canudax  and  a  line  liiawn 
thron)rh  ijm  centre  of  Lake  ,Sn|)erior ;  thence 
northweiitwardly  to  the  Lake  of  the  Wood ; 
thence  west  on  the  'lOth  piirallel  of  north  latitude 
to  thn  Kocky  MountuiiiH,  and  alonj;  those  nionn- 
tuinH  to  th(!  51lh  |iurallel ;  thence  wiMtwarilly 
on  that  line  to  a  |)oint  9  iimrinu  loa(rueH  from  tiie 
racifiR  Ocean  ;  and  on  the  west  by  a  line  eoin- 
incncing  at  the  laMt  inentionril  point,  and  running 
northwardly  parallel  to  the  I'acifie  eoaiit  till  it  in- 
tcrncct8  the  HIhI  parallel  of  lofii;ilnilc  west  from 
Grecnwieh,  Lng.,  and  thenec  due  north  to  the 
Arctic  Sea. 

They  have  also  leased  for :.'()  yenrK,  conunencinjf 
in  Marcli,  1810,  all  of  Ru.-<Hiaii  Atneriea  except  the 
pout  of  .Sitka  ;  me  li  imc  renewable  at  the  pleasure 
of  thelLlt.  C.  They  are  also  in  possession  of 
Orc({on  under  treaty  stipulation  between  Britain 
and  the  United  States.  Tlius  tliis  [wwerfid  com- 
pany occupy  and  control  luore  than  one-ninlh  of 
the  soil  of  tlic  jtIoIx'.  Its  stockholders  are  Itritish 
capitalists,  resident  in  Ureal  Britain.  From  these 
are  elected  a  lx}ard  of  nianapers,  who  hold  their 
nieetinns  and  transact  their  business  at  "Tlie 
Hudson's  Bay  House"  in  I/milon.  This  hoard  buy 
i;iK)d(i  and  ship  them  to  their  territory,  si  II  liie  furs 
for  which  they  are  exchunfjed,  and  do  all  other  busi. 
nesM  connected  with  the  company's  transactions, 
cxcejit  the  execution  of  their  own  orders,  the 
actual  businessofcolleetinjf  furs,  in  their  territory. 
This  duty  ia  entrusted  lo  a  class  of  men  who  are 
called  partners,  but  who  in  fad  receive  certain 
portions  of  the  ammal  net  profits  of  the  com- 
pany's business,  as  a  compensation  for  their  ser- 
vices. 

These  gentlemen  are  divided  by  their  employers 
into  dirt'erent  grades.  The  first  of  these  is  the 
Govcrnor.tjcneral  of  all  the  company's  po.sts  in 
North  America.  He  resiiles  at  York  Factory,  on 
the  westHhorcof  Hudson's  Hay.  The  second  class 
arc  chief  factors;  Ihe  third,  chief  traders;  the 
fourth,  traders.  lielow  these  is  another  class,  called 
clerks.  Tliesc  are  usually  younger  niembors  »{ 
re§peetable  Scottish  families.  They  are  not  ili. 
reetly  intcrcBted  in  the  com|>any's  profits,  but  re. 
eeive   an  annual  salary   of  JtlOO,    fiMid,   ."sui table  | 


clothing,  and  a  iKiily  servant,  during  an  npprrn- 
liccHliip  of  seven  years.  At  the  expiration  of  thi* 
term  tJiey  are  eligilile  to  the  traderships,  factor- 
•hips,  iVe.  that  may  bi:  vacateii  by  death  or 
retirement  from  (he  service.  While  waiting  for 
ailvanceineiit  they  are  allowed  troiii  X'HI)  to  i.'l:2l) 
per  annum.  The  Herva<itscm|)loyed  ulmul  their 
jMists  iinil  in  their  jonnieyingH  are  half-breed  Iro- 
ipHiis  and  Canadian  rrenchmen.  'I'licw!  they 
enlist  lor  live  years,  at  wages  varying  from  ijfM 
to  l{j|H|)  per  annum. 

An  aimual  Council  comimsed  of  the  tiovernor. 
(ieneral,  chief  factors  and  chief  traders,  is  held 
at  York  Factory.  Ilefore  this  ls)dy  arc  brought 
til"  r  I  ris  of  the  trade  of  each  district ;  pro|)osi. 
tioiis  I  I,  I'cw  I  iiterprisi's,  iiiiil  modilieations  of  old 
o!ics;  '.  :tll  these  iitid  other  matters  deemed  iin- 
porluut,  Is'ing  acted  u|K)n,  the  pnieeedings  liad 
thcj  'U  .inil  the  reports  from  the  several  distriits 
i.r  t'orwaiiled  to  the  U^>.iid  of  Directors  in  Imn- 
I  il'iM,  and  suliiecled  to  its  tiiiid  order. 

Thisilriwd  company  never  allow  their  terri- 
tory to  beovirtrappeil.  l\  the  annual  reliuii  froi.i 
any  .veil  ,ia|ipeil  liistrict  be  less  in  any  year  than 
foiiiieil\,  they  order  a  less  nunilKT  still  to  l«; 
taken,  until  tlie  beaver  and  other  fur  bearing  ani- 
niiils  have  time  Ut  increase.  'I'lic  income  of  the 
company  is  thus  rendered  iinirorm,  and  their  bum- 
liess  peijietiuil. 

The  nature  and  annual  value  "f  tlic  Hudson 
Hay  Company's  biibini'ss  in  the  territory  wllich 
they  occujiy,  may  be  learned  from  the  mllowijig 
table,  e.vlraeteil  Iroin  Hliss'  work  on  the  trade  and 
ndiistry  of  JJritish  .\iiicrica,  in  IflU  : 


Skins. 

Nil. 

•HCll    X,. 

J    H 

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Some  ide.i  may  be  lnriiied  of  the  net  profit  of 
this  business,  from  the  fails  that  Ihi'  shares  of  tlic 
company's  slock,  which  originally  cost  i'lOO,  arc 
ut  1110  per  cent  premium,  and  that  Ihe  dividends 
range  from  ten  per  cent  u|iward,  and  this  too 
while  lliey  are  creating  out  of  the  net  proceeds  an 
iiiimense  reserve  fund,  to  be  exi^nd'-'d  in  keeping 
other  pers<inB  out  of  tlie  trade. 

In  180,>  the  .Missouri  Fur  Company  estab- 
lislird  a  trading.posi  on  the  heud-waters  of  the 
Saptiii.  In  IfOG  the  Noitli-West  Fur  Company 
of  Canada  established  one  on  Fru/.er's  Lake,  near 
the  iiortliern  line  of  Oregon.  In  March,  1811, 
the  .Vmeriean  Pacific^  Fur  Company  built  Fort 
Astoria,  near  the  moulli  of  the  Columbia.  In 
July  of  the  siiiiic  year,  a  partner  of  the  North- 
West  Fur  Company  of  Canada  descended  the 
great  uortliern  branch  of  the  Columbia  lo  Astoria. 
'I'his  was  the  first  appearance  of  the  British  fur 
trader:!  in  the  valleys  drained  by  this  river. 

On  th,  llltli  of  October,  !8i;i — while  war  was 
raging   iHtween   England   and   the   States — the 


102 


Jh-aveh  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


Pacific  Fur  Company  sold  all  itB  Minhlislmicnts  ] 
in  Oregon  to  fho  Norlli.AVcBt  Fur  Company  of 
Canada.  On  the  1  st  of  Deopniber  followinir,  the 
British  sloop-of-war  Raccoon,  Captain  Black  com- 
mantlins^,  ontsrcd  the  Coluinhia — took  formal  pos. 
session  of  Astoria — and  changed  its  nnnic  to  Fort 
George.  On  the  1  st  of  Ortol)f  r,  1 H 1 8,  Fort  ( icorne 
was  Burrendercd  by  the  Hritisli  (Jovemmcnl  to  the 
Ctovemnient  of  the  States,  according  to  a  stipu- 
lation in  the  Treaty  of  Cilicnt.  Hy  the  name 
Treaty,  British  suhjects  were  granted  the  same 
rights  of  trude  and  scltlcnient  in  Oregon  as  lie- 
longed  to  the  citizens  of  the  IJepnblic,  for  the 
term  of  JO  yearn;  luider  the  condition — that  as 
both  nations  claimed  Oregon — tlic  occupancy  thus 
authorized  should  in  no  form  alli'ct  tlieipieslion  as 
to  the  title  to  the  country.  This  stipulation  was, 
by  treaty  of  london,  August  6,  1827,  indefinitely 
extended  ;  under  the  condition  that  it  should  cease 
to  be  in  force  12  months  from  the  date  of  a  notice 
of  cither  of  the  contracting  powers  to  the  other, 
to  annul  and  abrogate  it ;  jirovidcd  such  notice 
ehould  not  be  given  till  after  the  SOth  of  October, 
1S28.  And  this  is  the  maimer  in  which  the  Brit- 
ish Hudson's  Bay  Company,  after  its  union  with 
the  North- West  Fur  Company  of  Canada,  came  j 
into  Oregon.  "  ' 

They  have  now  in  the  territory  the  following 
trading.posts  : — Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Columbia,  91)  miles  from  the  ocean, 
in  latitude  454°,  longitude  122°  ,31)' ;  Fort  George, 
(formerly  Astoria.)  near  the  month  of  the  same 
river  ;  Fort  Nasqually,  on  Puget's  Sound,  latitude 
47°  ;  Fort  Langly,  at  the  cutlet  of  Frascr's  River, 
latitude  4D°  2j' ;  F"ort  McLaughlin,  on  the  Mill- 
bank  Soimd,  latitude  .')2°  ;  Fort  Simpson,  on 
Dundas  Island,  latitude  ,")ii°.  Frazcr's  Fort, 
Fort  James,  McLcod's  Fort.  Fort  Chilcolin,  and 
Fort  Alexandria,  on  Frazer's  river  and  its  branch. 
M  between  the  o\A  and  .51i  parallels  of  latitude  ; 
Thompson's  Fort,  on  Thomp?on's  river,  a  tribu- 
rr's  river,  putting  into  it  in  latitude 
1  minutes;  Kootania  Fort,  on  Flat- 
Flathead  Fort,  on  Fluthead  river ; 
and  Boisais,  on  the  .Saptin  ;  Forti 
on  the  Columbia,  above 


50'  and  od 
bow  river ; 
Forts  Hall 
Colvillo  and  Oakana?ai 


its  junction  with  the  Sajitm  ;  Fort  Xez  I'erces  or 
Wallawalla,  a  few  miles  below  the  junction  ;  Fort 
JIcKav,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Umpipia  river,  lati- 
tude 43°  30',  and  longitude  12 1*^  west. 

They  also  have  two  migratory  trading  and 
trapping  establishments  of  .'iO  or  GO  men  each. — 
The  one  traps  and  trades  in  Upper  California  ;  the 
other  in  the  country  lying  west,  smith,  and  east 
of  Fort  Hall.  They  al.w  have  a  steam-vessel, 
heavily  armed,  which  runs  along  the  coast,  and 
among  its  bays  and  inlets,  for  the  twofold  pur- 
pose of  trading  with  the  natives  in  places  where 
they  hsfve  no  jwst,  and  of  outbidding  and  oulsell. 
ing  any  .\mcriean  vessel  that  attempts  to  trade 
in  those  seas.  They  likewise  have  five  sailing 
vessels,  mcasurini;  from  100  to  500  tons  burthen, 
and  armed  with  camion,  nmskets,  cutlasses,  <Si.o. 
These  are  employed  a  part  of  the  year  in  'various 
kinds  of  trade  aliout  the  coast  and  the  inlands  of 
the  North  Pacific,  and  the  remainder  of  the  time 
in  bringing  goods  from  london,  and  hearing  back 
the  furs  for  which  they  arc  exchanged. 
:  One  of  these  ships  arrives  at  Fort  Vancouver 
ill  the  spring  of  each  year,  laden  wit'i  coarse  wool- 


ens, cloths,  baizes,  and  blankets ;  hardware  an<! 
cutlery;  cotton  cloths,  calicoes,  and  cotton  hand- 
kerchiefs ;  ten,  sugar,  cofl'ee,  and  cocoa  ;  rice,  to- 
bacco, soap,  bends,  gun?,  powder,  lend,  rum,  wine, 
brandy,  gin,  and  playing  cards  ;  boots,  shoes,  and 
ready-made  clothing,  iVe. ;  also,  every  descrip- 
tion of  sea  stores,  canvas,  cordage,  paints,  oils, 
chains  and  chain  cables,  anchors,  &c.  Having 
discharged  these  "  supplies,"  it  takes  a  cargo  of 
lumber  to  the  .Simdwicli  Islands,  or  of  Hour  and 
goods  to  the  Russians  at  .Sitka  or  Kaniskatka ; 
returns  in  .\ugust  ;  receives  the  furs  collected  at 
Fort  Vanc«uvcr,  and  sails  again  for  England. 

The  value  of  jiellrics  annually  collected  in  Ore- 
gon, bv  the  Hudson  Hay  Company,  is  about 
,«iI40.0"l)0  in  the  I/mdon  or  New-York  market. 
The  prime  cost  of  the  goods  exchanged  for  thcni 
is  about  i§20,l)fl0.  To  this  must  be  added  the 
per  centagc  f)f  the  ollicers  as  governors,  factors, 
&c.  the  wages  and  food  of  almut  400  men,  the 
expense  of  shipping  to  bring  supplies  of  goods 
and  take  bac^k  tiic  returns  of  furs,  and  two  years' 
interest  on  the  inv<'Bltncnts.  The  Company  made 
arrangements  in  183!)  with  the  Russians  at  Sitka 
and  at  oilier  jxirts,  about  the  sea  of  Kamskatka, 
to  Buppl)-  them  with  flour  and  goods  at  fixed  prices. 
And  as  they  are  opening  largo  farms  on  the  Cow- 
elitz,  the  Unipqua,  and  in  other  parts  of  the  Terri- 
tory, for  the  production  of  wheat  for  that  market ; 
anil  as  they  can  aftbrd  to  sell  goods  purchased  in 
England  under  a  contract  of  .50  years'  standing, 
20  or  30  per  cent,  cheaper  than  American  mer- 
chants can,  there  seems  a  certainty  that  the  Hud. 
son's  Bay  Company  will  engross  the  entire  trade 
of  the  ^''orth  Pacific,  as  it  has  that  of  Oregon. 

.Soon  after  the  union  of  the  Northwest  and 
Hudson's  Hay  Companies,  the  British  Parliament 
passed  an  act  extending  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Canadian  courts  over  the  territories  occupied  by 
these  fur  traders,  whether  it  were  "  owned"  or 
"claimed  by  (^rcat  Britain."  Fnder  this  act, 
certain  gentlemen  of  the  fur  company  were  ap- 
pointed justices  of  'he  peace,  and  empowered  to 
entertain  prosecutions  for  minor  ofFences,  arrest 
and  send  to  Canada  criminals  of  a  higher  order, 
and  try,  render  judgement,  and  grant  execution 
in  civil  suits  where  the  amount  in  issue  should 
not  exceed  je200  ;  and  in  ease  of  non-payment, 
to  imprison  the  debtor  at  their  own  forts,  rr  in  the 
jails  of  Canada. 

.-Vnd  thus  is  shown  that  the  trade,  and  the  civil 
and  criminal  jurisdiction  in  Oregon  are  held  by 
British  subjecls  ;  that  .American  citizins  arc  de- 
prived of  their  own  conmiercial  rights  ;  that  they 
arc  liable  to  be  arreslcd  on  their  own  territory  by 
officers  of  British  courts,  tried  in  the  American 
domain  by  British  judges,  and  imprisoned  or  hung 
according  to  the  laws  of  the  P/iitish  empire,  for 
acts  done  within  the  territorial  limits  of  the  Re- 
public. 

It  has  frcfiucntly  been    asked    if  Oregon  will 
hereafter  nssunie  great  importance  as  a  thorough- 
fare between    the   States  and   China  ?    The  an- 
I  Bwer  is  us  follows  : 

<      The    Straits   de  Fuca    and   unns    of  the  sea 

,  to  the    eastward  of   il     furnish  the    only   good 

harbors    on     the    Oregon    coast  >       Those     in 

\  Puget's   Hound   oll'cr  ivery  requisite   facility  for 

the  most  extensive   commerce.      Ships  beat  out 

and  into  the  straits  with  any  winds  of  the  coast, 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  t^r. 


103 


and  find  in  (lummrr  and  winter  fine  anchorage  at 
short  intervals  on  both  shores ;  and  among  tlic  is- 
lands of  the  Sound,  a  safe  harbor  from  the  prc- 
vailinijt  storms.  From  Pugct's  Sound  eastward, 
there  is  a  jjoBslble  route  for  a  rail  road  to  the  nav- 
igable waters  of  the  Missouri ;  flanked  with  an 
abundanrc  of  fuel  and  other  necessary  materials. 
Its  lengtli  would  be  about  600  miles.  Whetlicrit 
would  answer  the  desired  end,  would  depend  very 
much  upon  the  navigation  of  the  Missouri.  As 
however  the  principal  weight  and  bulk  of  cargoes 
in  the  Chinese  trade  would  belong  to  the  home, 
ward  voyage,  and  us  the  lumber  us(-d  in  construct- 
iiig  proper  boats  on  the  upper  Missouri  would  sell 
in  Saint  I/)uis  for  something  like  the  cost  of  con- 
struction, it  may  |M'rhaps  be  presumed  that  the 
trade  between  China  and  the  States  could  be  con- 
ducted through  such  an  overland  communication. 
The  first  day  of  the  winter  months  came  with 
bright  skies  over  the  l)cautiful  valleys  of  Oregon. 
Mounts  Washington  and  Jeflcrson  reared  their 
vast  pyramids  of  ice  and  snow  among  the  fresh 
green  forests  of  the  lower  hills,  and  overl(x)ked 
the  Willamette,  the  lower  Columbia  and  the  dis- 
tan»  sea.  The  herds  of  California  cattle  were 
lo\»..ig  on  the  meadows,  and  the  flocks  of  sheep 
from  the  Downs  of  England  were  scampermg  and 
bleating  around  their  shepherds  on  the  plain  ;  and 
the  plane  of  llie  carpenter,  the  adze  of  the  cooper, 
the  hammer  of  the  tinman,  and  the  anvil  of  the 
blacksmith  within  the  pickets,  were  all  awake 
when  I  arose  to  breakfast  for  the  last  time  at  Fort 
Vancouver.  The  beauty  of  the  day  and  the  busy 
hum  of  life  around  me,  accorded  well  with  the 
feelings  of  joy  with  which  I  made  preparations  to 
return  to  my  family  and  home.  And  yet  when  I 
met  at  the  table  Dr.  McLaughlin,  Mr.  Douglass, 
and  othere  with  whom  I  had  passed  many  pleas- 
ant hours,  and  from  whom  I  had  received  many 
kindnesses,  a  sense  of  sorrow  mingled  strongly 
with  the  delight  which  the  occasion  naturally  m- 
spired.  I  was  to  leave  Vancouver  for  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  and  see  Ihcm  no  more.  And  I 
confess  that  it  has  seldom  been  my  lot  to  have 
felt  BO  deeply  pained  al  parting  witli  those  whom 
I  had  known  so  little  time.  But  it  became  me  to 
hasten  my  departure  ;  for  the  ship  had  dropped 
down  to  tlie  mouth  of  the  river,  and  awaited  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  Simpson,  one  of  the  company's 
clerks,  Jlr  'ohnson,  an  American  froiTi  St.  Louis, 
and  myself.  And  while  we  were  making  the  low- 
er  mouth  of  the  Willamette,  the  reader  will  per. 
haps  be  amused  with  the  sketch  of  life  at  Fort 
Vancouver. 

Fort  Vancouver  is,  as  hai  been  already  in- 
timated, the  depot  at  which  are  brought  the  furs 
collected  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from 
which  they  are  shipped  to  England ;  and  also  the 
place  at  which  all  the  goods  for  the  trade  are  land- 
ed  ;  and  from  which  they  are  distributed  to  the 
Tarious  posts  of  that  tenitory  by  vessfls,  battcaux 
or  pack  animals,  as  the  various  routes  permit. — 
It  was  established  by  Governor  Simjjson  in 
1824,  as  the  great  centre  of  all  commerriul  opera- 
tions in  Oregon  ;  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  plain 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  Columbia,  90  miles  fiom 
the  sea,  in  latitude  45^°  north,  and  in  longitude 
122°  wtst;  standi  400  yards  from  the  waterside. 
The  noble  river  before  it  is  1070  yards  wide,  and 
from  5  to  7   fathonis  in  depth ;  tha  whole  surj 


rounding  country  is  covered  with  forests  of  pine, 
cedar  and  fir.  Sic,  interspersed  here  and  there 
with  small  open  spots  ;  all  overlooked  by  the  vast 
snowy  pyramids  of  the  President's  Uange,  35 
miles  in  the  east. 

The  fort  itself  is  an  oblong  S(|Mnre  2.50  yards  in 
length,  by  150  in  breadth,  enclosed  by  pickets  20 
feet  in  hight.  The  area  within  is  "divided  into 
two  courts,  around  which  arc  arranired  35  wooden 
buildings,  used  as  officers'  dwellings,  lodging 
apartments  for  clerks,  storehouses  lor  i'urs,  goods 
and  grains ;  and  as  workshops  for  carpenters, 
blacksmiths,  crMpcrs,  tinners,  wheelwrights,  &c. 
t)ne  building  near  the  rear  gate  is  occ\ipied  as  a 
school  house ;  and  a  lirick  structure  us  a  i>owder 
magazine.  The  wooden  buiUlings  arc  constnict. 
ed  in  the  following  manner.  Posts  are  raised  at 
convenient  intervals,  with  grooves  in  the  facing 
sides.  In  these  grooves  jjlank  are  inserted  hon. 
zontally ;  and  the  walls  are  complete.  Rafters 
raised  upon  plptis  in  the  usual  way,  and  covered 
with  boards,  form  the  roofs. 

Si.T  hundred  yards  lielow  the  fort,  and  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  is  a  village  of  53  wooden  hou. 
ses,  generally  constructed  like  those  within  tlie 
pickets.  In  these  live  the  company's  servants. — 
Among  them  is  a  hospital,  in  which  those  of  them 
who  Iwcome  disoasod  arc  humanely  treated. — 
Back  and  a  little  east  of  the  fort,  is  a  barn  con. 
taining  a  mammoth  threshing  machine  ;  and  near 
this  arc  a  number  of  long  sheds,  used  Tor  storing 
grain  in  the  sheaf.  And  behold  the  Vancouver 
farm,  stretching  up  and  down  the  river — 3,000 
acres,  fenced  into  beautiful  fields — sprinkled  with 
dairy  houses,  and  herdsmen  nnd  shepherds'  eottau 
jTcsI  A  busy  place  is  this.  The  farmer  on  horse, 
back  at  break  of  day,  summons  100  half-breeds 
and  Iroquois  Indians  from  their  cabins  to  the 
fields.  Twenty  or  thirty  ploughs  tear  open  the 
the  generous  soil;  the  sowers  follow  with  their 
seed — and  ])res8ing  on  them  come  a  dozen  har. 
rows  to  cover  it.  And  thus  thirty  or  forty  acres 
are  planted  in  a  day,  till  the  immense  farm  is  un- 
der crop.  The  season  passes  on — teeming  with 
daily  industry,  until  the  harvest  waves  on  all 
these  fields.  And  then  sickle  and  hoe  glisten  in 
ti'cless  activity  to  gather  in  the  rich  reward  of 
Ills  toil ; — the  food  of  700  people  at  this  post,  and 
of  thousands  more  at  the  posts  on  the  deserts  in 
the  east  and  north.  The  saw  mill,  too,  is  a  scene 
of  constant  toil.  Thirty  or  forty  Sandwich  Is. 
landers  are  felling  llie  pines  and  dragging  them 
to  the  mill ;  sets  of  hands  are  plyi;.;;  two  gangs  of 
saws  by  night  and  day.  Three  thousand  feet  of 
lumber  per  day — 000,000  feet  per  annum ;  con. 
stantly  being  shipped  to  foreign  porta. 

The  grist  mill  is  not  idle.  It  must  furnish 
bread  stuff  for  the  posts,  and  the  Russian  market 
in  the  northwest.  And  its  deep  music  is  heard 
daily  and  nijlilly  half  the  year. 

But  we  will  enter  the  fort.  The  blicksmith  is 
repairing  ploughshircs,  harrow  tcrth,  chains,  and 
mill  irons  ;  the  tinman  is  makinj  cups  for  the  In. 
dians,  and  camp  kettles.  Sir. ;  the  wlieelright  is 
making  wagons,  and  the  wood  parts  of  ploughs 
and  harrows;  the  carpenlcr  is  repairing  housea 
nnd  budding  new  ones  ;  the  cooper  is  making  bur. 
rels  for  pickling  salmon  and  packing  furs ;  the 
clerks  are  posting  books,  and  j)reparing  the  an. 
nual  returns  to  tlie  board  in  London ;  the  sales- 


104 


Travels  in  the  Cheat  Wettem  Prairies, 


men  arc  rereiving  beaver  and  dcalinff  ont  goods, 
But  hear  t)ic  voIoph  of  those  children  fVum  the 
Bchool  house  I  Tlicy  are  llie  half-lirecd  offspring 
of  the  gentlemen  and  servants  of  the  cDnipany, 
educated  at  tlie  company's  e.tpense,  preparatory 
to  being  apprenticed  tr  trades  in  Canada,  They 
Jcam  the  Englisli  la.iguage,  writing,  aritlinietic, 
and  gcograjthy.  The  gardener,  too,  is  singing 
out  his  honest  .satisfaction,  as  he  Burvej-s  from  the 
northern  gate  ten  acres  of  apple  trees  laden  with 
fruit — his  bowers  of  gra|)e  vines — his  beds  of  vo- 
gctables  and  (lowers.  The  bell  rings  for  dinner  ; 
we  will  see  tlii'  "  Hall  "  and  its  convivialities. 

The  dining  hall  is  a  spacious  room  on  the  sr. 
cond  floor,  ceiled  with  pine  above  and  at  the  sides. 
Jn  the  south  west  comer  of  it  is  a  large  close 
stove,  sending  out  sufficient  caloric  to  make  it 
comfortable. 

At  the  end  of  a  table  20  feet  in  leri^lii  stands 
Governor  McLaughlin — directing  guests  and  <feu- 
tlemcn  IVoni   neighboring  posts   to   Iheir  places; 
and  chief-traders,  traders,  tlic  physician,  clerks, 
lUid  the  farmer,  slide  respectftdly  to  their  places, 
at  distant^es  froiri  the  (.iovenior  corresjionding   to 
the  dignity  of  their  rank  in  the  service.     Th.-,nks 
are  given  to  tiod,  and  idl  are  seated.     Roast  beef 
and  pork,  boiled  nuitton,  baked  salmon,  boiled 
liani  ;  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  cabba/je  and  |)ota. 
toes,  and  wheaten  bread,  are  tastefully  distributed 
over  the  tuble  among   a    diimer  set  of   elegant 
'Queen's   ware,  burnished  wisli  glittering  glasses 
and  decanters  of  various   colored    Itali.in   wmes. 
Course  after  course  goes  rouiul,  and  the  (iovemor 
fdls  to  his  guests  and  friends ;  and  eaeli  gentleman 
in    turn  vies   with   liim   in  dill'using   around  tli<' 
boaril  a  most  generous  allowance  of  viands,  wines, 
and  warm  fellow  feeling.     The   cloth  and  wines  'I 
are  removed   together,  cigars  are  lighted,  and  a  i 
BtroUing  smoke  about  the  i)remises,    enlivened  iiy  jl 
ii  courteous  discussion  of  some  mooted    point  of  I 
natural  history  or  politics,  closes   the  cen'^uionics '■ 
of  the  dinner  hour  at  Fort  Vancouver.  j| 

These  are  some  of  the  incidents  of  life  at  Van-  !; 
couver.  But  we  moor  on  the  lower  i«)inl  of  Wap-  I 
patoo  Island,  to  regale  ourselves  with  food  and  '' 
fire.  'I'liis  istlic  highest  point  of  it,  ami  is  said  j, 
never  lobe  overllnwn.  A  bold  rocky  shore,  iiiid  ;' 
the  water  deep  enough  to  float  the  largest  vessels,  i, 
indicate  it  a  site  for  the  commercial  mart  of  the  ' 
island.  Hut  the  southern  shore  of  the  river,  a  '' 
half  mile  Ixlow,  is.  i)asladoubt,  the  most  impor- 
tant point  for  a  town  site  on  the  Colunibiu.  It  ii 
lies  at  the  lower  mouth  of  the  Willamette — the  ' 
natural  outlet  of  the  iM'st  agricultural  district  ofj 
Oregon.  It  is  a  hillside  of  gentle  acclivity,  eo-  ■ 
vcred  with  pine  forests.  There  is  a  gorge  in  the '' 
mountains  through  which  a  mad  from  it  to  the  : 
prairies  on  the  south  can  easily  lii'  constructed.  !; 
At  this  place  the  H.  H.  Coni|)auy  have  erected  a  !' 
liouse,  anil  occupy  it   with   one  of  their  servants. 

Having  euteu  our  cold  lunch,  we  left  Wappiilon 
Island  to  the  dominion  of  its  wild  hogs,  and  took  i 
again  to   our  Isiat.     It   was  a  dri/.ziy,  cheerless 
day.     The  clouds  ran    fast   from  the  sontliwesl,  ; 
and  obscured  the  sun.     The  wind  fell  in  irregidar  ; 
gusts  u|)on  the  water,  and  made  it  thtfieult  keep-  ! 
mg  our Ixiat  afloat.     But    we  liad  a   sturdy  old'; 
Sandwich  Islander  at  one  oar,  and  some   four  or 
five  able-bodied   Indians   at  others,  and   despite  i. 
winds  and  waves,  idept  that  uight  a   dozen  miles  jj 


below  tlie  Cowelitz.  Thus  far  below  Vancouver, 
the  Columbia  was  generally  more  than  1,000  yards 
wide,  girded  on  either  side  by  mountains  rising, 
very  generally,  from  the  water  side,  .2,000  or 
.■{,000  feet  in  height,  and  covered  with  dense  fo. 
rests  of  pine  and  fir.  These  mo<intauis  are  used 
by  the  ("henooks  as  burial  places.  During  the 
epidemic  fever  of  1832,  which  ahnist  swept  this 
portion  of  the  Columbia  valley  of  its  inliabitants, 
vast  mnnbers  of  the  dead  were  placed  among 
them.  They  were  usually  «Taj)ped  in  okins, 
placed  in  canoes,  and  hung  "to  the  lioughs  of  trees 
ti  or  8  fcvi  from  the  ground.  Thousands  of  these 
were  seen. 

They  hung  in  groups  near  the  water  side.  One 
of  them  had  a  canoe  inverted  over  the  one  con- 
taining  the  dead,  and  laphcd  tightly  to  it.  Wo 
were  often  driven  ck)sc  to  the  shore  by  the  heavy 
wind,  and  alwaj's  noticed  that  these  sepulchral 
canoes  were  perforated  at  the  bottom.  I  was  in- 
fomied  that  this  is  always  done  for  the  twofold 
purpose  of  letting  out  the  water  whieli  the  rains 
may  dejjositc  in  them,  aiul  of  preventing  their 
ever  being  used  again  by  the  living. 

The  .3d  was  a  blustering  day.  The  southerly 
winds  drove  in  a  heavy  tide  from  the  Pacific,  and 
lashed  tlie  C'olumbia  into  'oam  ;  but  by  keeping 
under  the  windward  shore,  we  made  steady  pro. 
gress  till  sunset,  when  the  incre.ised  expanse  of 
the  river  indicated  that  w^e  were  about  15  miles 
from  the  sea.  The  wind  <Ucd  away,  and  wo 
pushed  on  rapidly ;  but  the  darkness  was  so  great 
that  we  lost  our  coiu^e,  and  grounded  upon  a 
saiuli.ar  three  miles  to  the  north  of  Tongue  Point. 
.Vfler  considerable  trouble,  we  succeeded  in  get. 
ting  off.  steered  to  the  northern  shore,  and  hi  half 
an  hour  were  again  in  deep  water.  But  "  the 
shi]j — the  ship,"  was  on  every  tongue.  Was  it 
above  or  below  Tongue  Point !  If  the  latter,  wo 
could  not  reach  it  tliat  night,  for  the  wind  fresh- 
ened again  every  instant,  and  tlu'  waves  grew  an- 
gry and  fearful,  and  dashed  into  the  l)oat  at  every 
swe(-p  of  the  paddles.  \Vc  were  l)egiuning  to 
calculate  our  pros])ectH  of  another  hour's  breathing 
when  the  shadowy  outline  of  the  ship  was 
brought  between  us  and  the  open  horizon  of  the 
mouth  of  till'  river,  a  half  mile  below  us.  The 
oars  struck  fast  and  jrowerfully  now,  and  the 
frad  boat  shot  over  the  whitened  waves  for  a  few 
niinules,  and  lay  dancing  and  surging  under  the 
lee  of  the  noble  •'  Vancouver."  A  rope  was  has- 
tily thrown  us,  and  we  stood  upon  her  beautiM 
fleck,  manifestly  bareU'  saved  from  a  watery 
grave.  For  now  the  sounding  waves  broke  aw- 
fidlv  all  around  us.  Captain  Duncan  received  us 
very  kiiully.  and  introduced  us  unmcdiately  to 
the  cordial  hospitalities  ef  his  cabin.  The  next 
morniiiLr  we  drop|K'd  down  to  Astoria,  and  an- 
chiired  1<I0  vards  from  the  shore.  The  eaptrin 
an<l  passengers  landed  aliont  10  o'clock ;  and  as  1 
felt  peculiar  interesi  in  the  spot,  immortalized  no 
less  hy  the  genius  of  Irving  than  the  enterprise  of 
.lohii  Jacob  Astor,  I  spent  iriy  time  very  indus- 
triously in  exploring  it. 

The  site  of  this  place  is  thrive  quarters  of  a  mile 
alH)ve  the  [sjint  of  land  between  the  Columbia 
and  Clatsop  Bay.  It  is  a  hillside,  tbmierly  co. 
vered  with  a  very  heavy  forest.  The  space  that 
has  been  cleared  may  amount  to  four  acres,  It  is 
rendered  too  wet  for  cultivation  by  numberlecs 


in  (he  Rocky  Mountain*,  the  Oregon  Territory,  8(c. 


105 


springB  bursting  from  the  Hurfiicc.  Tlio  back 
;rrouii(l  iH  Btill  K  forest  rining  over  lofty  hills ;  in 
the  foreground  is  the  f  !olumbin,  and  the  broken 
|)inc  hills  of  the  op|X)sitc  shore.  The  Pacific  opens 
in  the  west. 

Astoria  bus  passed  away  ;  nothing  is  left  of  its 
buildings  but  an  old  batten  cedar  door  ;  nothing 
remaining  of  its  bastions  and  pickets,  but  a  half 
dozen  of  the  latter,  tottering  among  the  under, 
brush.  While  scrambling  over  the  grounds,  we 
c!ame  upon  the  trunk  of  an  immense  tree,  long 
since  prostrated,  which  mcasurccl  between  six  and 
seven  fathoms  in  circumference.  No  infonnation 
could  bo  obtained  us  to  the  length  of  time  it  had 
been  decaying. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  are  in  possession, 
and  call  the  jK)st  Fort  Gimrgc.  They  have  erect- 
ed  three  log  buildings,  and  occupy  them  with  a 
clerk,  who  acts  as  a  telegraph  keeper  of  events  at 
the  moulh  of  the  river.  If  a  vessel  arrives,  or  is 
seen  laying  off  and  on,  information  of  the  fact  is 
sent  to  Vancouver,  witli  all  the  rapidity  that  can 
\k  extracted  from  ari.is  '.nd  jjaddles. 

This  individual  also  carries  on  a  limited  trade 
with  Die  f'henook  u  id  Clatsop  Indians.  Ard 
such  is  his  influenre  over  them,  that  he  boi-rs 
among  the  company's  gentlemen  the  very  distu). 
guishcd  title  of  "  King  of  the  Clienooks."  He  is 
a  fine,  lusty,  companionable  fellow,  and  I  am  dis. 
posed  to  believe,  wears  the  crown  with  quite  as 
little  injury  to  his  subjects  as  to  himself. 

In  the  afternoon  we  bade  adieu  to  Astoria,  and 
dro))ped  down  toward  Cape  Disapiwintmenl. — 
The  channel  of  the  river  runs  from  the  fort  in  a 
northwestern  direction  to  the  point  of  the  Capo, 
and  thence  close  under  it  in  a  southwesterly 
coiu'sc  the  distance  of  foiu'  niilrs,  where  it  crosses 
the  bar.  The  wind  was  quite  bafllmg  while  we 
were  crossing  to  the  nortliern  side  ;  and  we  con- 
spiiuently  began  to  anticipate  a  long  residence  in 
Baker's  Hay.  But  as  we  near(>d  the  Cape,  a  de. 
lightful  breeze  sprang  up  in  the  east,  filled  every 
sail,  and  rushed  the  stately  ship  through  the  heavy 
seas  and  swells  most  merrily.  The  lead  is  dip. 
ping,  and  the  sailors  are  chanting  each  measure 
as  they  take  it  ;  we  approach  the  bar ;  the  sound- 
ings  decrease  ;  every  sliout  grows  more  and  more 
awful  I  the  keel  of  the  Vancouver  is  within  fif- 
teen  inches  of  the  bur  1  Kvery  breath  is  suspend- 
ed.  and  every  eye  fixed  on  the  leads,  as  tliey  are 
(|uickly  thrown  again  1  They  sink  ;  and  the 
I'hant  for  five  fathoms  enables  us  to  breathe  freely. 
We  have  passed  the  bar;  and  Captain  Piuiean 
grasps  his  passengers  by  the  band  warmly,  and 
congratulates  them  at  having  escaped  Ix'ing  lost 
in  those  wild  waters,  where  many  a  noble  ship 
niul  briwe heart  have  simk  together  and  forever. 

Ott'the  mouth  of  the  Colninbia — on  the  deep, 
long  swells  of  the  Pacific  seas.  The  rolling  siir- 
geH  Ijooni  along  the  moimtaiuons  slinres  I  Up  the 
vale  100  mileslhe  white  jiyramid  of  .Mount  Wa.sli. 
iugton  towers  alxive  tlic  clouds,  and  the  green  lor- 
eslB  of  )  lower  Oregon  I  That  scene  I  shall  never 
forget.  It  was  t<K)  wild,  too  unearthly  to  be  des- 
cribed. It  was  seen  at  sunset  :  and  a  night  >f 
horrid  tem|>est  shut  in  upon  tliik,  the  author's  last 
view  of  Orsjon. 


I      The  following  abstract  of  Commander  Wilkes' 
I  Report  on  Oregon  cantc  to  iiand  while  tliis  work 
j  was  in  press,  and  the  author  takes  great  pleasure 
■  in  appending  it  to  his  work.     Mr.  Wilkes'  statis. 
\  tics  of  the  Territory,    it  will  be  seen,  agree  in  all 
jj  essential  particulars  with  those  given  on  previous 
pages.  There  is  one  point  only  of  any  importance 
that  needs  to  I..;  named,  in  regard  to  which  truth 
requires  a  protest ;  and  that  is  contained  in   the 
commander's  concluding  remarks.  It  will  he.  seen 
on  reference  to  ihcm,  that  the  agricultural  capa- 
bilities of  Oregon  arc  placed  'ibove  those  of  any 
part  of  the  world  beyond  th  j  tropics.     This  is  a 
most  surprising  conclusion  ;  at  war  with  his  own 
aceoimt  of  the  several  sections  whicli  he  visited, 
and  denied  by  every  intelligent  man  living  in  the 
territory.  What  I  Oregon,  in  this  respect,  equal  to 
<  'alifornia,  or  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi !     This 
can  never  be  until  Oregon  be  blessed  with  a  vast 
increase  of  productive  soil,  and  ('alifornia  and  our 
own  imeciualled  Valley  be  greatly  chaiiged. 

lixlrncts  from  Ihi:  Report  of  Lieu  enant  Witkfs 
lu  the  Secretury  nf  the  Nary,  ■>/  the  rxami. 
uiiliun,  by  the  Exploring  Expedition,  nf  the 
Oregon  Territory. 

The  Territory  embraced  under  the  name  of  Or. 
egon,  extends  from  latitude  43°  north  to  that  of 
54°  40'  north,  and  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Its  natural  bcmndaries,  were  they  attended  to, 
would  confine  it  within  the  above  gcogra]>hical 
Ixnmdaries. 

On  the  cast  it  has  the  range  of  Rocky  Moun- 
tains  along  its  whole  extent  ;  on  the  south  thost; 
of  the  Klamet  range,  running  on  the  parallel  of 
42°,  aiul  dividing  it  from  California;  on  the  west 
the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  and  on  the  north  the  western 
trend  of  the  Rocky  .Mountains,  and  the  chain  of 
lakes  near  and  along  the  parallels  of  54'-'  and  55° 
north,  dividing  it  from  the  British  territory.  It 
is  remarkahli' that,  within  these  limits,  all  the  riv- 
ers that  llow  through  the  Territory  take  their 
rise. 

The  Territory  is  divided  into  three  natural 
belts  or  sections,  viz: 

1st.  That  between  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Cas- 
cade Mountains,  ( President's  range)  or  Western 
section  ; 

:.'d.  'J'hat  between  the  Cascade  mountains  au<l 
Bine  moimtain  range,  or  middle  section  ; 

.'td.  That  between  the  Blue  and  Roekj'  Moun. 
tain  <-liains,  or  eastern  section. 

And  (his  division  will  equally  apply  to  the  soil, 
climate,  aiul  productions. 

'J'lie  nionnlain  ranges  run,  for  the  most  pari,  in 
parallel  lines  with  the  coast,  and.  risinn  in  many 
plaei's  al«)ve  the  snow  line,  (here  found  to  be 
11,500  feel,)  would  naturally  produce  a  ditrerenec 
of  lemperalnri"  between  them,  and  also  affect 
llieir  productions. 

Our  snrvi ys  and  exjilorations  w<'re  l  jnfincd, 
for  the  most  part,  to  the  two  lirst,  claiming  more 
interest  from  being  less  known,  and  more  in  ae. 
cordance  with  my  instructions. 

Moi'XTAixs. — 'riieC'aseade  range,  or  that  neir 


m 


Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies, 


rat  the  coast,  ninn  from  the  southern  boundary, 
on  a  parallel  with  the  sea  coast,  the  whole  length 
of  the  Territory,  north  and  South,  risinfj,  in  many 
places,  in  hiijh  peaks,  from  12,000  lo  11,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sen,  in  regular  cones. — 
Their  distance  from  the  coast  lino  is  from  100  to 
150  miles,  and  they  almost  interrupt  the  eomniu- 
nication  ImbIwccu  the  srctions,  except  where  the 
two  great  rivers,  the  Columbia  and  Frazer's  force 
u  passage  through  them. 

Tlicrc  arc  a  few  mountain  jiasscs,  but  they  arc 
ditRcult,  and  only  to  be  attempted  late  in  the 
spring  and  summer. 

A  small  range  (the  C'liiset)  lies  to  the  north, 
ward  of  the  Columbia,  between  the  coast  and  the 
waters  of  Pugct'a  Sound,  and  along  the  strait  of 
.luan  de  '•"uca.  This  has  several  high  peaks, 
which  rise  alx)ve  the  snow  line,  hut,  from  their 
proximity  to  the  sea,  tliey  arc  not  ut  all  times 
covercii. 

Their  general  direction  is  north  and  south,  but 
there  are  many  spurs  or  ofTsets  that  cause  this 
])ortion  to  be  very  rugged. 

The  Blue  mountains  arc  irregular  in  their 
course,  and  occasionally  interrupted,  but  generally 
trend  from  north  by  cast  to  northeast,  and  from 
south  to  southwest. 

In  some  parts  thev  may  be  traced  as  spurs  or 
offsets  of  the  Rocky  ^fountains.  Near  the  south- 
ern boundary  they  unite  with  the  Klamet  range, 
which  runs  cast  and  weat  from  the  Kocky  Moun- 
tains. 

The  Rocky  Mo\m tains  arc  too  well  known  to 
need  description.     The  different  passes  will,  how- 
ever, claim   attention   hereafter.     North  of  48° 
the  ranges  are  nearly  parallel,  and  have  the  rivers  , 
(lowing  between  them. 

Islands. — Attached  to  the  Territory  arc  groupi 
of  Islands,  Iwirdering  its  northern  coast.  Among 
these  are  the  large  islands  of  Vancouver  and 
\Vashinj,'on  or  (^uecn  Charlotte ;  the  former  bo- 
inor  2ti0  miles  in  length  and  .'iO  in  width,  contain- 
ing about  15,000  square  miles,  and  the  latter  1.50 
miles  in  length  and  30  in  liroadth,  containing 
•1,000  s(iuarc  miles. 

Though  somewhat  broken  in  surface,  their  soil 
IB  said  to  be  well  adapted  to  agriculture. 

They  have  mnny  good  hurbora,  and  have  long 
been  the  resort  of  those  nigac:ed  in  the  fur  trade ; 
they  enjoy  a  mild  and  8:ihil)ri<)us  climate,  and 
have  an  abundance  of  fine  f'sh  frequent  ng  their 
waters,  which  arc  taken  in  I:  rgc  quantities  by  the 
natives.  Coal  of  good  qu;  lity  is  found,  sppci- 
mcnu  of  whieh  I  obtained.  The  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  have  mideatrialof  it,  but,  owing  to 
its  having  been  taken  from  near  the  surface,  it 
was  not  very  highly  spoken  of.  Veins  of  luine. 
rals  are  also  said  to  exist  by  those  aequauited 
with  these  islands. 

They  Imth  appear  to  be  more  densely  inhabited 
than  other  portions  of  the  Territory.  Tlie  na. 
lives  are  considered  a  treacherous  race,  particu- 
larly  those  in  llie  vicinity  of  .lohnson's  straits,  and 
arc  to  be  closely  watched  when  deaUng  with 
Ihom. 

At  the  southeast  end  of  Vancouver's  there  is  a 
small  archipelago  of  islands,  through  whicli  the 
canal  de  Arro  runs.  Tlicy  arc  for  the  most  part 
uninhabited,  well  wooded,  and  coin|)<>se<l  of  gran- 
ite and  pudding  cton«,  which  appear  to  bo  the  i 


prevailing  rock  to  the  northward  of  a  line  east 
from  the  strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca.  They  arc  gen. 
erallj'  destitute  of  fresh  water,  iiave  but  few  an. 
chorages,  and  strong  currents  render  navigation 
among  them  difficult. 

The  islands  nearer  the  main  land,  called  on 
the  maps  Pitt's  Banks,  or  the  Prince  Royal  isl- 
ands,  are  ol  the  ramc  cliaracter,  and  arc  only  oc- 
casionally  resorted  to  by  the  Indians,  for  the  pur- 
pose  of  fishing. 

The  coast  of  thcmainland,  north  of  the  paral- 
lel of  JD^,  is  broken  up  by  numerous  inlets  called 
canals,  having  perpendicular  sides,  and  very  deep 
water  in  them,  affording  no  harljors,  and  but  few 
commercial  inducements  to  frequent  them. 

The  land  is  equally  cut  up  by  spurs  from  the 
Cascade  range,  whicli  here  intersects  the  country 
in  all  directions,  and  prevents  its  adaptation  for 
agriculture. 

Its  value  is  principally  in  its  timber,  and  it  is 
believed  that  few  if  any  countries  can  compare 
with  it  in  this  respect. 

There  is  no  part  on  this  coast  where  a  settle- 
ment could  be  formed  between  Frazer's  river,  or 
'W  north,  and  the  northern  boundary  of  54°  40' 
north,  that  would  be  able  to  supply  its  own  wants. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  posts  within 
this  section  of  the  country — Fort  McLaughlin,  in 
Millbank  sound,  in  latitude  52°  10'  north,  and 
Fort  Simpson,  in  latitude  54°  30'  north,  witliin 
Dundas  island,  and  at  the  entrance  of  Chatham 
sound  ;  but  they  are  only  posts  for  the  fur  trade  of 
the  coast,  and  arc  suppUed  twice  a  year  with  pro- 
visions, &c. 

It  is  believed  that  the  company  have  yet  no  es- 
tablishment on  any  of  the  islands ;  but  I  under- 
stood it  was  in  contemplation  to  make  one  on 
Vancouver's  island,  in  the  vicinity  of  Nootka 
Sound,  or  tiiat  of  Clyoquot. 

Owing  to  the  dense  fogs,  the  coast  is  extreme- 
ly dangerous ;  and  they  render  it  at  all  times  dif. 
ficult  to  approach  and  navigate  along.  The  inte- 
rior of  th;s  portion  of  the  Territory  is  traversed 
by  the  three  ranges  of  mountains,  with  the  scve- 
ral  rivers  which  take  their  rise  in  them,  and  is 
probably  unequalled  for  its  ruggedness,  and,  from 
all  accounts,  incapable  of  any  thing  like  cultiva. 
tion. 

The  Columbia  in  its  trend  to  the  westward, 
along  the  parullel  of  48°,  cuts  off  the  central  or 
Blue  mountain  range,  which  is  not  again  met 
witli  until  on  the  parallel  of  45°.  From  45°  they 
trend  away  to  the  southward  and  westward,  until 
they  fall  into  the  Klamet  range.  This  latter  por- 
tion is  but  partially  wooded. 

Rivers. — The  Columbia  claims  the  first  notice. 
Its  northern  branch  takes  its  rise  in  the  Rocky 
mountains  in  latitude  50°  north,  longitude  116° 
west ;  from  thence  it  pursues  a  northern  route  to 
near  McCiillivary's  Puss,  in  the  Rocky  mountains. 
At  the  l)oat  encampment  the  river  is  3,600  feet 
aliove  the  level  of  the  sea,  (here  it  receives  two 
small  tributaries,  the  Canoe  river  and  that  from 
the  Committee's  Punch  Bowl  ;)  from  thence  it 
tunii  south,  having  some  obstructions  to  its  safa 
navigation,  aud  receiving  many  tributaries  in  its 
course  to  C'olviile,  among  which  are  the  Koota- 
nie,  or  Flat  Bow,  and  the  Flat  Head  or  Clarke  riv- 
er from  the  eatt,  and  that  of  Colvillc  from  the 
west. 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  SfV. 


107 


This  preat  river  is  bounded  tliim  fnr  on  its 
coirsc  by  n  ranijc  of  high  moiintainn,  well-wood- 
0(1,  and  in  places  rxpandu  into  a  linr  of  lakes  be. 
fore  it  rcacheH  Colville,  where  it  id ',',0  lit  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sen,  having  a  fall  of  ^.lO  feet  in 
i.'30  miles.  To  the  Foiitb  of  thin  it  trends  to  the 
westward,  reeeivinfj  the  Spoknn  river  from  the 
(•ast,  which  is  not  naviffable,  and  takes  its  rise  in 
the  t.ake  of  (.'u;ur  d'Alene.  Thence  it  pursues  a 
wCHterly  course  for  about  GO  miles,  reccivinsf  scv- 
tral  smaller  streams,  and  at  its  bend  to  the  wiutli 
it  is  joined  by  the  Okanatran,  a  river  that  has  its 
source  in  a  luie  of  lakes,  affordinc;  canoe  jnd  boat 
navigation  for  n  considerable  extent  to  the  north- 
ward. 

The  Columbia  thence  paHscs  to  the  southward 
until  it  reaches  Wallawalla,  in  the  latitude  of  •1,'')=' 
a  distance  of  IGfi  miles,  receiving;  the  Piscous, 
Y'Akania,  and  Point  de  Uoise,  or  Entyatecwini, 
from  the  west,  which  take  their  rise  in  the  (':ih. 
cade  rani^e,  and  also  its  great  southeastern  branch, 
the  Sapliii  or  Lewis,  which  has  its  source  in  tlie 
Rocky  mountains,  ne.ir  our  southern  Iwiundary, 
and  brinjjs  a  large  quantity  of  water  to  increase 
the  volume  of  the  main  stream.  The  Ijcwis  in 
not  navigable,  even  for  canoes,  except  in  reaches. 
The  rapids  am  extensive  and  of  frequent  occur, 
rcncc.  It  generally  passes  between  the  Hoeky 
mountain  spurs  and  the  Blue  mountains.  It  re. 
ccives  the  Koos-koos.ke,  Salmon,  and  several  oth- 
er rivers,  from  the  east  and  west — ttie  former  from 
the  Rocky  mountains,  the  latter  from  the  IJhie 
mountains — and,  were  it  navigable,  would  much 
faeilitato  the  intercourse  with  this  part  of  the 
eountry.  Its  length  to  its  junction  with  the  Co- 
lumhia  is  ,590  n.iles, 

'I'he  Columbia  at  Wallawalla  is  l.aSG  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  about  3,500  fwt  wide  ; 
It  now  takes  its  last  turn  to  the  westward,  reeeiv. 
ing  the  Umatilla,  yuiKncl's,  John  Day's,  and  de 
Chute  rivers  from  the  south,  and  Cathlatate's 
from  the  north,  pursuing  its  rapid  course  of  SI) 
miles,  previous  to  passing  through  the  range  of 
Cascade  mountains,  in  a  series  of  falls  and  rapids 
that  obstruct  its  flow,  and  form  insurmountable 
b.irriers  to  the  ])a8sage  of  boats  by  water  during 
the  floods.  These  difliculties,  however,  arc  over, 
come  by  portages. 

From  thence  there  is  si  ill- water  nnvipntion  for 
forty  niiles,  when  its  course  is  again  obstructed 
by  rapids. 

Thence  to  the  ocean,  100  milrs,  it  is  navigable 
for  vessels  of  \'J  feet  draught  of  water  at  the  low. 
est  state  of  the  river,  though  obstructed  by  many 
sand-bars. 

In  this  |)art  it  roTives  the  Willamette  from 
the  south,  and  the  ( 'owelitz  from  Ihc  north.  The 
foniier  is  navigable  tor  small  vessels  OfT  miles,  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Klackanms,  three  milca  below 
its  falls;  the  latter  cannot  Im"  called  navigable  ex- 
cept for  a  small  part  of  the  year,  during  the 
floods,  and  then  oidy  for  canoes  and  barges. 

The  width  of  the  Columbia,  within  00  miles 
of  its  mouth,  is  much  increased,  and  it  joiim  the 
ocean  iHtwecn  Cape  Diyuppoinlmerit  and  Point 
Adams,  forming  a  sand-spit  from  each  bv  dr|Kis- 
it,  and  causing  a  dangerous  bar,  which  greatly 
impedes  its  navigation  and  entrance. 

Frazer's  river  next  claims  attention.  It  takes 
its  rise  in  the  Uocky  mountains,  near  the  source 


of  Canoe  river,  taking  n  northwesterly  course  of 
MO  miles;  it  then  turns  to  the  southw.ard,  reeeiv. 
ing  the  waters  of  Stuart's  river,  which  rises  in  a 
chain  of  lakes  near  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
Territory. 

It  then  pursues  a  southerly  course,  receiving 
the  waters  of  the  Chilcotin.  Pinkslitsa,  and  seve- 
red smaller  streams,  .""rom  the  west,  and  those  of 
Thompson's  river,  (iuisnell's,  and  other  streams, 
from  I  hi'  cast,  (these  take  their  rise  in  lakes,  and 
are  navigable  in  canoes,  by  making  portages;) 
and  under  the  parallel  of  -1!)°  it  breaks  through 
the  ('aseadc  range  in  a  succession  of  falls  and 
rapids,  and,  after  a  westerly  course  of  70  miles, 
it  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  in  the  lati. 
tude  of  11)^  07'  north.  This  latter  |)ortion  is  nav- 
igable  for  vessels  that  can  pass  its  bar  drawing 
10  feet  water;  its  whole  length  being  .350  miles. 

The  Chikeelis  is  next  in  im|)ortance.  It  has 
three  sources  among  the  range  of  hills  that  inter- 
;-ect  the  coimtry  north  of  the  Columbia  river. — 
.Mter  a  very  tortuous  course,  and  receiving  some 
small  streams  issuing  from  the  lakes  in  the  high 
ground  near  the  head- waters  of  Hood's  canal  and 
Pugefs  .Sound,  it  disemlwgucs  in  Grey's  harlxjr; 
it  is  not  navigable  except  for  canoes  ;  its  current 
i.i  rapid,  and  the  stream  much  obstructed. 

To  the  south  of  the  Columbia  there  are  many 
small  streams,  but  three  of  which  deserve  the 
name  of  rivers:  the  Umpqua,  Too-too-tut-na,  or 
Kogues'  river,  and  the  Klamet,  which  latter  emp. 
ties  into  the  ocean  south  of  the  parallel  of  40  de- 
grees.  None  of  these  fonn  Imrlmrs  capable  of  re- 
ceiving  a   vessel  of  more  than  eight  feet  draught 

'  of  water,  and  tlie  bars  for  most  part  of  Ihc  ysar 
are  impassable  from  the  surf  that  sets  in  on  the 
coast.  The  character  ol  the  great  rivers  is  pecu- 
liar — rapid  and  sunken  much  below  the  level  of 
the  eountry,    with  perpendicular  banks;  indeed 

-  they  are,  as  it  were,  in  trenches,  it  Ix-ing  extreme, 
ly  (lifHcult  to  get  at  the  water  in  many  places, 
owing  to  the  steep  basaltic  walls  ;  and  during  the 
rise  they  are  in  many  places  confined  by  dal'cs, 
which  hack  the  water  some  distance,  submerging 

j  i^lanJs  and  tractn  iif  low  prairie,  giving  the  ap- 
pearance of  extensive  lakes. 

ii      Lakks.— 'I'here  arc  in  the  various  sections   of 

I.  the  eountry  many  likes.     The  Dkanagan,  Stu- 

:  art's,  QuisneU'H,  and  Kamloop's  are  the  largest 
in  the  nnrthem  section. 

The  Flat  How.Cieur  d'Alfine,  and  Kulluspelm, 
in  the  middle  section,  and  those  forming  the  liead. 
waters  of  the  large  rivers  in  the  eastern  section. 

The  eoimlry  is  well  watered,  and  there  are  but 
few  places  where  an  abundance  of  water,  either 
from  rivers,  spriiigs,  or  riviUets,  cannot  bo  ob. 
tained. 

The  snialler  lakes  add  much  to  the  picturesque 
beauty  of  the  couulry.  They  are  generally  at  the 
headwaters  of  the  smaller  streams.  The  map 
will  point  out  more  particularly  their  extent  Emd 

•  locality. 

IIauuors. — .\ll  the  harlxirs  formed  by  the  riy. 
ers  on  the  sea  coast  are  obstructed  with  cxtensivo 
s:in<l  bars,  which  make  them  difficult  to  enter. 
The  rivers  bring  down  large  quantities  of  sand, 
which  is  deposited  on  meetinjj  with  the   ocean, 

,  ciiusmg  a  gradual  increase  of  the  im|)ediment» 
already  exist  Ing  at  their  mouths.     None  of '.hem 

I.  can  be  deemed  safe  jwrts  to  enter.     The  sntrancs 


108 


Travels  in  tin  Great  Western  Prairies, 


to  the  Columliia  is  impraclicalilc  two.thircis  of  the 
j'oar,  and  the  difticutty  of  leaving  in  rqually  groat. 

The  nortli  sands  arc  rai)idly  incrruKing,  and  ex- 
tending further  to  the  noutliward.  In  tlie  memory 
of  sovcral  of  thoBC  wlio  have  been  longest  in  the 
country,  C'apc  Disappointment  haK  l>een  enoroaeli. 
I'd  upon  some  himdrcd  feet  bytlic  sea,  and,  during 
my  short  oxpcrienec,  nearly  half  an  acre;  of  the 
mnhllc  sanilH  was  washed  away  in  a  few  days, 
'I'liese  Bands  are  known  to  cliange  every  season. 

The  exploration  made  of  the  (.'lalsop  or  South 
channel,  it  i«<  hclieve<l,  will  give  more  safety  to 
vessels  ca])ahle  of  entering  the  river.  'I'he  depth 
of  water  on  the  bar  seems  not  to  have  ebanged, 
though  the  passage  has  become  somewhat  narrow. 

(irey's  liarlxir  will  admit  of  vessels  of  light 
draught  of  water,  (10  feet,)  but  there  is  but  little 
room  in  it  on  account  of  the  extensive  mud  and 
sand  fliits.  A  survey  was  made  of  it,  to  whicli  I 
refer  for  particulars, 

'I'his,  however,  is  not  the  ease  with  the  liarlwjis 
formed  within  the  straits  of  Juan  dc  Fuca,  of 
which  there  are  many ;  and  no  part  of  the  world 
affords  finer  iidand  sounds  or  a  greater  numlxT  of 
harbors  than  can  be  found  here,  capable  of  rcceiv- 
ing  the  largest  class  of  vessels,  and  without  a 
danger  in  them  that  is  not  visible.  From  the  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tides,  (18  feet,)  all  facilities  are 
atlbrdcd  for  the  erection  of  works  for  a  great 
maritime  nation.  For  further  information,  our 
extensive  surveys  of  these  waters  are  referred  to. 

("UM.VTK. — That  of  the  western  section  is  mild 
tliroughout  the  year — neither  experiencing  the 
cold  of  winter  nor  the  heat  of  summer.  Hy  my 
experiments,  the  mean  temperature  was  found  to 
lie  M°  of  Falirenhcit.  . 

'J'he  prevailing  winds  in  the  sununer  arc  from 
the  northward  and  westward,  and  in  the  winter 
from  the  southward  and  westward  and  southeast, 
which  arc  tempestuous.  The  winter  is  supposed  ■ 
to  last  from  Decend)er  to  February  :  rains  usually 
begin  to  fall  in  November  and  lust  till  March,  but 
they  are  not  heavy  though  frequent. 

Snow  sometimes  falls,  but  it  seldom  lies  over 
three  days.  The  frosts  are  early,  occurring  in  the 
latter  part  of  August ;  this,  howevitr,  is  to  be  ac. 
counted  for  by  the  proximity  of  the  mountains. 
A  mountain  or  easterly  wind  invariably  causes  a 
great  fall  in  the  temperature  ;  these  winds  arc  not 
frequent.  During  the  sununer  of  our  ojicrations, 
I  found  but  l/ircc  dcijs  noted  of  easterly  winds. 

The  nights  are  cold,  and  afl'eet  the  vegetation 
so  far  that  Indian  corn  will  not  ripen.  Fruit  trees 
blossom  early  in  April  at  Nisqually  and  Vancou- 
ver  ;  and  at  the  former  place  on  the  Itith  of  May 
l)ea8Were  a  foot  high,  strawberries  in  full  blossom, 
and  salad  had  already  gone  to  seed. 

The  mean  bight  of  the  buronictrr  during  our 
stay  at  Nistpially  was  ItD.OKi  iuelies,  and  of  the 
thermometer  ()G°  .'iH.  Fahrenheit.  The  llierniouie. 
ler  at  1  A.  M.  on  the  -1th  of  .Inly  was  at  ,'ilP 
Fahrenheit,  and  on  the  same  day  at  ::J  1'.  M,  'JU'^ 
Fahrenheit,  The  lowest  decree  was  'M°  at  1  A, 
M.  May  -Jrid,  and  at  ,5  P.  M.  of  n.e  same  day  the 
temperature  was  7d°  of  Fahrenlieit. 

From  June  to  .Septend)er.  at  Vancouver,  the 
mean  hight  of  the  barometer  was  'M.'A'i  inches, 
and  of  the  thermometer  00"'  3;t  of  Fainenheit. 
OiUof  lOfi  days  7t>  were  fair,  1!)  cloudy,  and  II 
rainy.     The  rains  are  ligld  ;  this  is  evident  from 


the  hills  not  hMng  wttshed,  and  having  a  sward 
to  their  tops,  althnu^li  of  grriil  itrrliirity. 

The  second  or  nnddle  section  is  subject  to 
droughts.  During  the  summer  the  atmosphere  is 
much  drier  and  warmer,  and  the  winter  much 
colder  than  in  the  western  section.  Its  extremes 
of  heat  and  cold  are  more  frequent  and  greater, 
the  mercury  at  times  falling  as  low  as  minus  H° 
of  Fahrenlieit  in  the  winter,  and  rising  lo  \tf[P 
in  the  shade  in  summer;  the  daily  diU'errnee  of 
temperature  is  akiut  111°  Fahrenlieit.  It  has, 
however,  been  found  J'xtremely  salubrious,  [los- 
sessing  a  pure  and  healthy  air. 

The  stations  of  the  missionaries  and  |ioHts  of 
the  Hudson  Day  Company  have  afforded  me  the 
menus  of  obtaining  information  relative  lo  the 
climate.  Although  full  data  liavc  not  been  kept, 
vet  these  observations  allbrd  a  tolerably  good 
knowledge  of  tlic  weather, 

III  summer  the  utinosphi're  is  cooled  by  the 
.strong  westerly  breezes,  which  replaced  the  va- 
cuum produced  by  the  heated  prairie  grouuds.  So 
dews  fall  in  this  section. 

The  climate  of  the  third  or  eastern  section  is 
extremelv  variable.  The  temperature  during  the 
day,  diftering  from  M'^  to  (iO'^,  renders  it  unfit 
for  agriculture,  and  there  are  but  few  places  in  its 
northern  part  where  the  climate  would  not  ertcetu- 
ally  put  a  stop  toils  ever  becoiinng settled. 

In  each  day,  from  the  best  accounts,  one  has 
all  the  changes  incident  to  spring,  siunmer,  au- 
tumn, and  winter.  Theio  are  places  where  small 
farms  might  be  located,  but  they  arc  few  in  num- 
ber. 

Soil. — That  of  the  first  or  western  section  va- 
ries in  the  northern  jiarts  from  a  light  brown  loam 
to  a  thill  vegetable  earth,  with  gravel  and  sand  as 
a  .sub-soil ;  in  the  middle  ])arts  from  a  rich  heavy 
ioaiii  and  unctuous  clay  to  a  deeji  heavy  black 
loam  on  a  trap  roek;  and  in  the  southern  the  soil 
is  generally  good,  varying  from  a  black  vegetabh- 
loam  to  decomposed  basalt,  with  stiH"  clay,  and 
portions  of  loose  gravel  soil.  The  hills  are  gene- 
rally basalt,  and  stone,  and  slater 

Between  the  Fin]>qua  and  the  iKiundary  the 
rocks  are  primitive,  consisting  of  falcon  slate, 
hornblende,  and  granite,  which  produce  a  gritty 
and  jHior  soil ;  there  are,  however,  some  places  of 
rich  pruirie  covered  with  oaks. 

The  soil  of  the  leconil  or  nnddle  .section  is  for 
file  most  part  a  light  sandy  loam,  in  llie  valleys 
rich  alluvial,  and  the  hills  are  generally  barren. 

Tlie  third  o  stern  section  is  a  rocky,  broken, 
and  barren  country.  Stupendous  mountain  spurs 
traverse  it  in  all  directions,  affording  httle  level 
ground;  snow  lies  on  the  moimlains  nearly  if  not 
quite  the  year  Ihrougli. 

.Vcjiiuii.TiiiK,  PuomCTioNs,  fuc. — The  first 
section,  for  tlie  most  part,  is  a  vvell-tiinbered  coun- 
try ;  it  is  inlcrscctcd  with  the  sjmrs  or  offsi'ts  from 
the  Cascade  mountains,  which  render  its  surface 
much  broken :  these  arc  covered  with  a  dense 
forest.  It  is  well  watered,  and  communieation 
between  the  northern,  southern,  and  middle  parts 
is  dilhcult,  on  aeconnt  of  the  various  rivers,  spurs 
of  mountains,  &c. 

'I'he  timber  consists  of  pines,  firs,  spruce,  oaks, 
(red  and  white,)  ash,  arbutus,  arlior  vitie,  cedar, 
|)oplar,  maple,  willow,  cherry,  and  tew,  Willi  a 
close  undcrgrowlh  ol'hrizel,  rubus,  roses,  &c,  The 


in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory,  ifc. 


J09 


richest  and  best  soil  is  found  on  the  second  or  mid- 
dle! prniric,  and  is  brHt  ndaplnl  for  nfrriciilturc, 
Uic  high  and  low  bring  cxcoIImiI  for  pasture  land. 

Tlio  line  of  woods  runs  on  the  cast  side,  and 
near  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  "-aniro.  Tlio  climate 
and  soil  are  admirably  ada|)tc<l  for  all  kinds  of 
grain,  wlieat,  rye,  oals,  barley,  peas,  &e.  Indian 
com  doert  not  thrive  in  any  part  of  this  territory 
where  it  has  l«^en  tried.  .Many  fruits  appear  to 
wiceeed  well,  particularly  the  apple  and  ])ear. — 
Viigctubles  grow  exceedingly  well,  and  yield  most 
abundantly. 

'I'he  surface  of  iIk'  middle  section  is  about  one 
thousand  I'eet  jibove  the  level  of  the  first  or  west- 
em  section,  and  is  generally  a  rolling  prairie  coun- 
try. 'I'liat  part  lying  to  the  north  of  the  paralUl 
of  18°  is  very  much  broken  with  mountain  chains 
and  rivers,  eontequently  barren  and  very  nigged. 
From  the  great  and  fref|iR'iit  changes  in  its  tem- 
perature, it  is  totally  unfit  for  agricultiuc,  but  is 
well  supplied  with  game  of  all  the  kinds  that  ore 
found  in  the  country. 

The  mountain  chains  on  the  parallel  of  ■IH°  are 
rnt  ofV"  by  the  Columbia  as  before  stated,  leaving 
lUt  extensive  rolliiior  country  in  the  centre  of  the 
'JVrritory,  which  is  well  adapted  for  grazing. 

'I'he  southern  part  of  this  section  is  destitute  of 
limber  or  wood,  unless  the  worm  wood  (artimesia) 
may  be  w)  called.  To  the  northward  of  the  par. 
ollel  of  49'^  it  is  covered  with  forests.  Wheat  and 
other  grains  grow  well  in  the  bottoms,  where  they 
can  be  irrigated.  The  soil  in  such  places  is  rich, 
and  capable  of  producing  ali.'.osl  any  thing. 

The  missionaries  have  succeeded  ill  raising  g<K)d 
crops.  Stock  succeeds  here  even  better  tiian  in 
the  lower  country.  Notwilhslaiiding  the  severe 
cold,  the  cattle  are  not  housid,  nor  is  provender 
laid  in  for  tlicm,  the  country  being  suificirntly 
supplied  with  fodder  in  the  natural  hay  that  I's 
abundant  every  where  on  the  ]>rairie,  which  is 
preferred  by  the  cattle  to  the  fresh  gras.i  at  the 
imttnins. 

No  attempts  at  agriculture  have  l)ecn  made  in 
the  third  section,  except  at  Fort  .''all.  The  small 
grains  thrive  tolerably  well,  togeli.  <■  with  vegeta- 
bles, and  a.  sullicient  (piantity  has  been  obtained 
to  supply  the  wants  of  the  [K)st. 

'I'he  ground  is  well  adapted  for  grazing  in  the 
prairies,  and,  despite  its  changeable  climate,  stock 
is  found  to  thrive  well  and  endure  the  severity  of 
the  winter  without  protection. 

This  section  is  exceeding  dry  and  arid,  iiMus 
seldom  falling,  and  but  little  snow.  The  country 
is  partially  timbered,  and  the  soil  much  iiii|)ieg- 
nated  with  salts.  The  missionary  station  on  the 
Koos  koos.ke.  near  the;  western  line  of  this  sec- 
tion, is  thought  by  the  missionaries  to  he  a  irrl 
rlimute. 

The  soil  along  the  river  lioltoms  is  generally 
alluvial,  and  woidd  yield  good  crops,  were  it  not 
for  the  overflowing  of  the  rivers,  which  check  and 
kdl  the  grain.  Somr  of  the  tuiest  portions  of  the 
land  are  thus  unfitted  for  cultivation  ;  they  are 
generally  covered  with  water  before  the  banks  are 
overflown  in  consequence  of  the  quick  sands  that 
exist  in  them,  and  through  which  the  water  per- 
colates. 

Tiio  rivers  of  this  Territory  alFord  no  fertilizing 
properties  to  the  soil,  but,  on  the  contrary,  are  des- 
titute of  uU  substunccs.    The  temperature  of  the 


Columbia  in  the  latter  part  of  May  wa«  42°,  and 
in  September  (J8°. 

The  rise  of  the  streams  flowing  from  the  Cos. 
cade  mountains  takes  place  twice  a  year,  in  Feb. 
riiary  and  November,  from  the  rains ;  that  of  the 
Columbia  in  May  and  June,  from  the  melting  of 
the  snows.  Sometimes  the  rise  of  the  latter  is 
very  sudden,  if  heavy  rains  occur  at  tlial  period  ; 
hut  usually  it  is  gradual,  and  reaches  its  greatest 
bight  from  the  (ith  to  the  l.'ith  of  June.  Its  per- 
pcndicular  rise  is  from  18  to  'M  feet  at  Vancouver, 
where  a  line  ol  embankment  has  been  thrown  up 
to  proloc-t  the  lower  prairie  ;  but  it  has  been  gene- 
rally  ttoodcd,  and  the  crops  in  most  cases  destroyed. 
It  is  the  intention  to  abandon  its  cultivation,  and 
devfile  it  to  pasturage. 

'i'he  greatest  rise  in  the  Willamette  lakes  place 
III  February  ;  and  1  was  informed  that  it  rose 
sonielimes  lit)  to  'lit  feet,  and  quite  suddenly,  but 
soon  subsides.  It  occasionally  cauw's  nmcli 
damage. 

Both  the  Willamette  and  Cowclit/  are  much 
swollen  by  tla?  backing  of  (heir  waters  during  the 
hight  of  the  Columbia,  and  all  their  lower  grounds 
submerged,  'i'his  puts  an  cfTectual  bar  to  their 
prairies  Uing  used  for  iuiy  thing  but  pasturage, 
which  is  tine  throughout  the  year,  excepting  in  the 
si-awm  of  the  floods,  when  the  cattle  are  driven  to 
the  high  grounds. 

My  knowledge  of  the  agrieiillnre  of  this  Ter- 
ritory, it  will  be  well  to  mention,  is  derived  from 
visits  made  to  the  various  settlements,  except  Fort 
Langley  and  Fort  Mall. 

The  Indians  on  the  dill'erent  islands  in  Puget's 
Sound  and  Admiralty  inlel^ciiltivate  |Xjtatoes  prui- 
cipally,  which  are  extremely  tine  and  raised  in 
great  abimdaiice,  and  now  constitute  a  large  (sir- 
tion  of  their  food. 

At  Nisqually  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  had  fine 
crops  of  wheat,  oats,  peas,  fwtatoes,  &,o.  |Tln! 
wheat,  it  was  supposed,  would  yield  fifteen  bushels 
to  the  acre.  The  farm  has  been  two  years  under 
cultivation,  and  is  principally  intended  for  u  graz- 
ing and  dairy  farm.  'I'hey  have  now  sevtntv 
miUdi  cows,  and  iiiakc  butter,  &,c.,  to  supply  their 
contract  with  the  Russians. 

The  Cowelitz  farm  is  also  in  the  western  section, 
the  produce  of  wheat  is  good — about  twenty 
bushels  to  the  acre.  The  ground,  however,  lias 
just  been  brought  under  cultivation.  The  com- 
pany have  here  (JOI)  acres,  which  arc  situated  on 
the  Cowelilz  river,  about  thirty  miles  from  the 
Columbia,  and  on  the  former  are  about  erecting  u 
saw  and  grist  mill.  The  farm  is  finely  situated, 
and  the  harvest  of  1811  produced  7,000  bushels 
of  wheat. 

Several  ('anadiaiis  arc  also  established  here, 
who  told  me  that  they  succeeded  well  with  but  lit. 
tie  work.  They  have  erected  buildings,  live  com. 
fortably,  and  work  small  farms  of  50  acres, 

I  was  told  that  the  stock  on  these  farms  thd  not 
thrive  as  well  as  elsewhere.  There  arc  no  low 
prairie  groimds  on  the  river,  in  this  vicinity,  and 
it  is  too  far  for  them  to  resort  to  the  Kamas  plains, 
a  tine  grazing  coimlry,  but  a  few  njilcs  distant. 
The  wolves  make  sad  depredations  with  the  in- 
crease of  their  flock,  f  not  well  watched. 

The  hilly  |iortion  of  the  country,  although  its 
soil  in  many  places  is  very  good,  is  yet  so  heavily 
timbered  as  to  make  it,  in  tlic  present  state  '  f  liic 


no 


Travels  in  Oh  Great  Western  Prairies, 


country,  vnliiclcsi ;  this  is  also  tlio  casr  witli  many 
fine  portions  of  level  f^round.  Tlu're  are,  how. 
ever,  large  tracts  of  fiiw  prairie,  siiilublc  for  cul. 
tivation,  and  ready  for  the  plough. 

The  Willamrtle  valley  is  Kiipposed  to  ho  the 
finest  portion  of  the  country,  Ihoiifjh  I  am  of  opin- 
ion  that  many  parts  of  the  snulliern  |)ortion  of  the 
Territory  will  be  fonnd  far  superior  to  it.  'I'he 
largest  settlement  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
valley,  some  15  miles  almve  I  lie  falls.  About  61) 
families  are  settled  there,  tlm  industrious  of  whom 
appear  to  he  thrivinnf.  They  are  composed  of 
American  missionaries,  trappers,  and  Canadians, 
who  were  formerly  servants  of  tlie  Hudson's  Hay 
Company.  All  of  Ihein  appeared  (o  he  doini;  well ; 
but  I  was  on  the  whole  disaiipointcd,  fromllie  re- 
ports that  had  been  made  to  inc,  not  to  (ind  the 
settlement  in  a  slate  of  greater  forwardness,  eon- 
siilerinp;  the  a<lvantan;c»  the  missionaries  have  h;id. 

In  comparison  with  our  own  eountrv,  1  would 
Buy  that  the  labor  necessary  in  this  'I'eiritory  to 
acquire  wealth  or  subsislence  is  in  the  prnportiou 
of  one  to  three  ;  or,  in  other  words,  a  man  nuist 
work  throufrh  the  year  three  limes  as  luueh  in  the 
United  .States,  to  pain  the  lihe  compctenev.  'I'he 
care  of  stock,  which  occupies  so  mn<h  time  with 
us,  requires  no  attention  there,  and  on  tbe  increase 
only  a  man  mifjht  lind  support. 

The  wheat  of  this  valley  yields  S.'i  to  40  bush- 
1.1s  for  one  sown,  or  '£)  to  .'I'j  bushels  to  the  acre; 
its  quality  is  superior  to  that  ;rrown  in  the  United 
Slates,  and  its  weifjht  nearly  four  prouiuls  to  the 
bushel  heavier.  The  above  is  the  yield  of  new 
land;  but  it  is  believed  it  will  ixreally  exceed  Ibis 
after  tbe  third  crop,  when  the  land  has  been  brok. 
in  up  and  well  tilled. 

After  passiiii;  mto  tbe  middle  section,  tlie  eli- 
mate  underfjocs  a  decided  e,han;rt. ;  in  phice  of  tbe 
cool  and  moist  atmosphere,  one  that  is  dry  and 
arid  is  entered,  and  the  crops  suli'er  from  drought. 

The  only  wood  or  bushseen.  is  the  worm-wood, 
rartimcsia,)  and  this  only  in  places.  .VII  eidli- 
vation  has  to  be  more  or  less  carried  on  by  irriga. 
tion. 

'I'he  country  bordering  the  Columbia,  alxjve  the 
Dalles,  to  the  north  and  soiUh  of  the  river,  is  the 
poorest  in  the  Territory,  and  has  no  iloubt  led 
many  to  look  upon  the  middle  section  as  perfectly 
useless  to  man.  Twenty  or  thirty  miles  on  either 
side  of  the  river  are  so  ;  but  hiyoiid  that  a  fine 
prrazing  country  exists,  and  in  very  many  places 
there  are  portions  of  it  that  mi^ht  be  advantage- 
ously farmed.  On  the  banks  of  the  W'allawalla. 
a  small  stream  emptying  into  the  Columbia,  about 
25  miles  from  the  company's  [lost,  a  missionary  is 
established,  who  raises  very  (itie  wheat  on  tbe  low 
bottoms,  by  using  its  waters  for  the  purpose  of  ir. 
rigation.  This  is  also  the  ca.se  at  the  mission  sta- 
tion at  Lapwai,  on  the  Loos-koos-ke,  where  fine 
crops  are  raised ;  grains,  vegetables  and  some 
fruits  thrive  remarkably  well.  In  the  northern 
part  of  this  section,  at  t'himekaine,  there  is  ano- 
ther missionary  station.  Near  the  Spokan,  and 
ut  Colville,  the  country  is  well  adapted  for  agri. 
culture,  and  it  is  successfully  carried  on. 

Colvdle  supjilies  all  the  northern  posts,  and  the 
missionaries  in  its  vicinity  are  doing  well.  The 
northern  part  of  this  .section  will  be  able  to  supply 
the  whole  southern  part  with  wood.  At  Colville 
the  chongos  of  temperature  are  great  during  the 


I  34  hours,  but  are  not  injurious  to  the  small  grain. 
I  The  cultivation  of  fruit  has  been  succcsHful. 

!  FisiiEnirs. — It  will  be  almost  impossible  to 
give  an  idea  of  the  extensive  fisherins  in  the  rivers 
and  on  the  coast.  They  all  almund  in  salmon  of 
the  finest  flavor,  which  run  twice  a  year,  begin, 
ning  m  May  and  October,  and  appear  inexhausti- 
ble;  the  whole  popidalinn  live  upon  them.  The 
Columbia  produces  the  largest,  and  probably  af- 
fords the  greatest  ninnbers.  There  are  some  few 
of  the  branehcs  of  the  Columbia  that  the  spring 
fish  do  not  enter,  but  they  are  pleiilifuUy  supplied 
in  the  fall. 

Till'  great  fishery  of  the  ( 'oluiubia  is  at  'he  Dal. 
les;  but  all  the  rivi-rs are  well  sujiplicd.  The  last 
one  on  the  norlhern  branch  of  llu'  Columbia  is 
near  Colville,  at  the  Kettle  falls  ;  but  salmon  are 
found  almve  this  in  the  river  and  its  tnbutarics. 

In  Urazer's  river  the  sahnon  ari^  said  to  be  very 
numerous,  but  not  large ;  they  are  unable  to  get 
above  the  falls  some  HO  miles  from  the  sea. 

In  the  rivei's  and  sounds  are  found  several  kinds 
of  salmon,  salmon  trout,  sturgeon,  cod,  carp  sole, 
fiounders,  ray.  perch,  herring,  lamprey  icis,  and  a 
kind  of  smelt,  called  '•  shiiiw,"  in  great  abun- 
,  dance;  also  large  quantities  of  shell  fish,  viz; 
crabs,  clams,  oysters,  rnu.seles,  \-.c.,  wbieli  arc  all 
used  by  the  natives,  and  constitute  tbe  greater 
proportion  of  their  food. 

AVhales  in  numbers  .irc  found  along  the  coast, 
and  are  frequenlly  captured  by  the  Indians  in 
and  at  the  mouth  of  the  straits  o,  .Imn  de  l''uca. 

(i.\ME. — Abundance  of  game  exists,  such  as 
elk,  deer,  antelo|)e,  bears,  wolves,  foxes,  nniskrals, 
martins,  beavers,  a  few  grizzly  bears  and  silHeurs, 
which  are  eaten  by  the  Canadians.  In  the  mid. 
die  section,  or  that  designated  as  the  rolling  prai- 
rie, no  (rame  is  found.  In  the  eastern  section  the 
bulFalo  is  met  with.  The  fu  r-bearing  animals  are 
decreasing  in  nundvrs  yearly,  particidarly  soulh 
of  tbo  parallel  of  -IH^  ;  mdeed  it  is  very  doubtful 
i  whether  they  are  sufficiently  numerous  to  repay 
I   the  expense  of  hunting  them. 

The  Hudson's  Hay  Company  have  almost  the  ex- 
;   elusive  nionn|)oly  of  this  business.     They    have 
,   decreased,  owing  to  being  bunted  without  regard 
1   to  season.     This  is  not,  however,  the   case  to  tbe 
'   north  ;  there  the  company  have  been  left  to  exer- 
cise their  own  rule,  and  prevent  the  indiscrinii- 
nate  slaughter  of  either   old  or  young,  out  of  the 
proper  season. 

In  the  spring  and   fall,  the  rivers  are   literally 

covered  with  geese,  ducks,  and  other  water  fowl. 

In  the  eastern  section,  the  butt'alo  abound,  and 

are  bunled  by  the  (Oregon  Indians,  as  well  as  th(^ 

Black  Feet.     Wolves  are  troublesome  to  the  set. 

tiers,  but  they  are  not  so  rmniiTous  as  formerl}'. — 

From  the  advant.iges  this  country  po-ssesses,  it 

bids  fair  to  have  an  extensive  commerce  on  .ad- 

,   vanfageous  terms  with  most  portsof  the  Pacific. 

It  is  well   calculated   to  produce  the  following, 

which,  in  a  few  years  after  its  settlement,  would 

become  its  staples,  viz  :  furs,  salted  l)eef  and  jxirk, 

;   fish,  grain,  flour,  wool,  bides,  tallow,  lumber  and 

]  ])erhap8  coal.  A  rea<ly  market  for  all  these  is  now 

to  be  found  in  the  Pacific ;  and  in  return  for  them 

sugars,  cofl'ec,  and  other  tropical  productions,  may 

lie  had  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — advantages  that 

jl  few  new  countries  iwBseas,  viz  :  the  facility  of  a 


in  ihe  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Oregon  Territory, 


111 


market,  and  one  that  in  time  must  become  of  im- 
mense extent. 

Manufacturing  power. — This  coimtry,  it  is 
beUeved,  affords  as  many  sites  for  UMtcr  power  a* 
any  other,  and  in  many  phccs  within  reach  of 
navigable  waters.  The  timber  of  the  w-stern 
section,  to  the  south  of  '19°,  is  not  so  good  as  that 
of  the  north.  This  is  imputed  to  tlie  ehmnte 
being  milder  and  more  cnan  jeablc.  A  great  dif- 
ference is  found  between  tlic  norlii  and  south 
sides  of  the  trees,  Ihe  one  being  of  ii  liard  and 
close  grain,  while  the  other  is  open  and  sponwy. 

To  the  norlhof  thepirallel  of  19^, on  Frizcr's 
river,  an  abundnncc  of  fine  timber,  for  spars  of 
any  dimensions,  is  easily  obtained. 

There  will  always  be  a  demand  for  the  timl)er 
of  this  country  at  high  prices  througliout  the  Pa- 
cific.  The  oak  is  well  adapted  for  ship  timber,  and 
abundance  of  ash,  cedar,  cypress,  and  arljor  vita), 
maybe  had  for  fuel,  fencinj.  Sec.  ;  and,  although 
the  southern  part  of  the  midille  section  is  desli- 
tute  of  timber,  it  may  be  supplied  from  tlio  eastern 
or  northern  sections  by  water  carriage. 

Intercommunication  would  at  lirst  apjiear  to 
be  diflicult  between  the  dilFerent  parts  of  the 
country,  but  I  take  a  different  view  of  It. 

Stock  of  all  kinds  thrive  exceedingly  well,  and 
they  will  in  consequence  always  abound  In 
the  Territory.  The  soil  affords  every  advan- 
tage for  making  good  roads,  and.  In  process  of 
time,  transportation  must  become  comparatively 
cheap. 

Settlements. — Tliey  consist  principally  of  those 
belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and 
where  the  missionaries  have  establiseed  themselves. 
They  are  as  follows  :  In  the  western  section.  Fort 
Simpson,  Fort  Mcl/iughlin,  Fort  Ijaugley,  Nis- 
quatly,  Cowelitz,  Fort  George,  Vancouver,  and 
Umpqua  ;  Fort  iSt.  James,  darbine,  Alexandria, 
('hilcothin,  Kamloop's,  (on  Thompson's  river ;) 
Okanagan,  ColvlUc,  and  Wallawalla,  in  the  mid- 
dle; and  in  the  eastern,  Kootanieand  Fort  Hall. 
Fort  Boise  has  lieen  abandoned,  as  has  also  Kuima, 
a  missionary  settlement  on  the  Koos-kooske. 

These  arc  all  small  settlements,  surrounded  by 
pahsades,  wstli  bastions  at  their  comers,  enclosing 
the  houses  and  stores  of  the  company,  sufficient 
to  protect  them  against  the  Indians,  but  In  no 
way  to  be  considered  as  forts.  A  few  Indians 
reside  near  them,  who  arc  dependent  for  their  food 
and  employment  on  them. 

These  forts,  being  situated  for  the  most  part 
near  the  great  fisheries,  are  frequented  by  the  In- 
dians, wlio  bring  their  furs  to  trade  for  blankets, 
&c.,  at  the  same  time  they  come  to  lay  in  their 
yearly  supply  of  salmon. 

Vancouver  is  the  principal  depot  from  wuion 
all  supplies  arc  furnished,  and  to  which  returns 
arc  made. 

At  Vancouver,  tlie  village  Is  separated  from  the 
fort  and  nearer  the  river.  In  addition  to  its  being 
the  depot  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  there  Is 
now  attached  to  It  the  largest  farm  of  the  Puget 
Sound  Company,  the  stockholders  of  which  arc 
generally  the  officers  and  servants  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.  They  have  now  farms  In  suc- 
cessful operation  at  Vancouver,  Cowelitz,  Nisquul. 
ly,  Colviile,  Fort  Langley,  and  the  Fualitino  plains. 
about  10  miles  from  Vancouver,  all  of  which  arc 
well  stocked,  and  supply  the  Russian  post  at  >Sit. 


ka,  under  contract,  with  a  variety  of  articles 
raised  on  them.  They  have  introduced  largo 
herds  and  flocks  Into  the  Territory  from  Califor- 
nia,  and  during  our  stay  there  several  thousand 
head  were  im;'ortcd.  They  arc  thus  doing  incal- 
culable  good  to  tht  Territory,  and  rendering  it 
more  valuable  for  fuiure  settlers.  At  the  same 
tiific,  this  exerts  an  ii'flucnce  in  domcsticathig 
the  Fndions,  not  only  b  ■  changing  their  habits, 
but  food,  and  attaclnng  them  to  a  locality. 

TliQ  Indians  of  the  Tei  ritory  arc  not  a  wander- 
ing race,  as  soiiic  have  asserted,  but  change  for 
food  only,  and  each  fiuecriisive  season  will  ngeer- 

'  ally  find  tliein  in  their  old  haunts,  seeking  it. 
The  sctllemcnts  eslabllHlied  by  the  missionaries 

.  are  at  the  Will anielle  falls  and  valley,  NIsqually 

'  and  Clatsop,  in  the  western  section,  and  at  the 
Dalles,  Wallawalla,  J.npwtii,  ami  Chimekaine,  on 
the  Spokan,  in  the'middlc. 

I  Those  of  the  middle  section  are  succeeding 
well ;  and  although  little  progress  has  been  made 
in  the  conversion  of  the  I  adians  to  Christianity, 
yet  they  have  done  much  good  in  reforming  some 
of  the  vices  and  teaching  B«inie  of  the  useful  arts, 
particularlj-  that  of  ngrlcultiire,  and  the  construc- 
tion of  houses,  which  has  h^d  the  effect  in  ainea. 

!  sure  to  attach  them  to  the  soil.  The  men  now 
rear  and  tend  their  cuttle,  pb.nt  their  potatoes  and 
corn,  which  latter  they  excha.ige  for  buffalo  meat 
with  those  who  hui  .  The  squaws  attend  to  their 
household,  and  employ  themselves  In  knitting  and 
weaving,  which  they  have  been  taught.  They 
raise  on  their  small  patches  corn,  potatoes,  melons, 
&,e..  Irrigating  the  land  for  that  purpose.  There 
are  many  villages  of  Indians  still  existing,  though 
greatly  reduced  In  numbers  from  former  estimates. 
Populatiiin. — It  Is  extremely  difficult  to  ascer- 
tain, with  accuracy,  the  amount  of  ;">pulation  in 
the  Territory.  The  Indians  change  to  their  dif- 
ferent abodes  as  the  fishing  seasons  come  round, 
which  circumstance.  If  not  attended  to,  would 
produce  very  erroneous  results. 

The  following  is  believed  to  be  very  nearly  the 

I  truth  ;  if  any  thing,  it  is  overrated  : 

j  Vancouveror  Wasliington  island 5,000 

I  From  the   parallel  of  50"  to  51°  north... .    2.000 

I  Penn's  Cove,  Wliidby's  island,  main  land 

j      (Shatchet  trilxO G50 

Hood's   canal,  (Suquaniish    and   Toando 

i      tribe) 

I  At  and  about  Okancgan 

Aliout  Colviile,  SjKikan,  &c 

[Willamette  falls  and  valley 

j  Pillar  rock.   Oak   point,  and  (^olumbla 

j      river 

I  Port  Discovery 150  i 

i  Fort  Townsend 70  >  Chalams 

New     Dungeness...200  ) 

I  >Vallawalla,    including    the    Nczperces, 

Snakes,  &c 1,100 

;  Klllamouks,  north  of  Umpqua 400 

Cape  Flattery  and  Queen  Hythe  to  Point 

(iranvillc,  (Classet  tribe) 1250 

Black    Feet  tribes  that   make    Incursions 

west  of  the  Kocky  .Mountains 1,000 

:  Birch  bay 300 

!  Frazcr's  river  (Neamitch  tribe) 500 

Chennoks 209 

'Clatstops 220 

i  At  the  Cascadci 150 


500 
300 
•150 
275 

301) 

420 


lid 


f*rave\t  in  the  Great  Western  Prairiet, 


AttheDallei 250 

Y'Akama  river 100 

UeChuto  rivor 185 

UinpqiiaH 400 

Rogcr'H  rivpr 500 

KlamctH 300 

Shastys 500 

KallupugnH GOO 

Nisqimlly aOO 

CliikcliH  ni.il  riigct'a  Sound 700 

Cowclitz.  or  KlukutackH 350 

Port  Orchard 150 

The  whole  Territory  may  bo  cslinmlrd  an  eon- 
taining  20,000.  Of  whites,  CamuliniiH  and  hull'. 
breedH,  tlicrr  are  l)ctwrpn  700  and  800,  of  whom 
about  150  are  Americans ;  tlie  rest  arc  fcltlors, 
and  the  officers  and  servants  of  the  eompuny. — 
The  Indians  are  rapidly  decreasing  in  all  parts  ut 
the  country  ;  the  causes  an;  supposed  to  be  their 
rude  treatment  of  diseases,  and  the  dissipated 
lives  they  load. 

The  white  American  ijopulation,  ns  far  as  I 
Itave  been  able  to  judge  of  them,  are  orderly,  and 
generally  industrious;  although  tlicy  are,  with 
the  eice])tion  of  the  missionaries,  men  who  have 
led,  for  the  most  past,  dissolute  lives. 

The  absence  of  spirits,  as  long  as  it  contiir  ;oh, 
will  probably  secure  them  from  excesses.  Very 
much  to  tlu'ir  credit,  they  have  abandoned  the 
use  of  spirituous  liquors,  by  consent  of  the  whole 
community. 

I  cannot  but  view  this  Territory  as  peculiarly 
liable  to  the  vice  of  drunkenness.  The  ease  with 
which  the  wants  of  man  arc  obtained,  the  little 
labor  required,  and  cons<;<iuent  opportunities  for 
idleness,  will  render  it  so.  The  settlers  of  the 
AVillamctte  vidley  have,  with  a  praiseworthy 
spirit,  engaged  to  prevent  the  estaldishment  of 
distilleries,  and  there  are,  as  yet,  no  places  where 
spirits  can  be  Ixiught  (to  my  knowledge)  in  the 
'I'erritory. 

It  is  highly  creditable  to  the  Hudson's  Uny  ('om. 
pany,  that  on  a  vessel  arriving  on  the  coast  with 
some  spirits  on  lioard,  in  order  to  prevent  its  intro- 
duction,  they  have  purchased  the  whole  cargo, 
while,  at  the  same  time,  their  storehouses  were 
filled  with  rum.  They  have,  with  praiseworthy 
zeal,  interdicted  its  bemg  an  article  of  trade,  be- 
ing  well  satisfied  that  it  is  contrary  to  their  in. 
terest,  and  demoralizing  in  its  effects  on  all  the 
tribes  and  people  with  whom  they  have  to  deal, 
rendering  tliem  difficult  to  manage,  quarrelsome 
among  themselves,  and  preventing  their  success 
in  hmiting.  Endeavors  have  likewise  been  made, 
by  the  ofliccrs  of  the  company,  to  induce  the 
Kussians,  on  their  side,  to  adopt  this  example,  and 
do  away  with  it  as  an  article  of  trade,  but  liitli- 
erto  without  success. 


It  no  doubt  has  been  one  of  the  causes  eflecl. 
ing  the  decrease  of  the  native  tribes,  as  it  was 
formerly  almost  the  only  article  of  trade. 

In  the  event  of  this  IVrrilory  lieing  taken  |)o». 
session  of,  the  necessity  of  eircumscribing  the 
\iBe  and  sale  of  spirits  laimot  be  too  strongly  in. 
sisted  upon  by  legal  enaclmeiil,  Ixith  to  preserve 
order  and  avoid  expenw;. 

As  far  as  the  Indians  have  come  under  my  no. 
tice,  they  are  un  inoffensive  race,  except  those  in 
the  northern  parts.  The  deoredations  commilled 
on  the  whites  may  l)c  traced  to  injuries  received, 
or  arise  from  superstitious  motives. 

MiSHioNAliiEs. — Little  has  yet  been  elleeted  by 
them  in  christianizing  the  natives.  They  are 
principally  engaged  in  the  cultivation  of  the  mis. 
sion  far.ns,  and  in  the  care  of  their  own  stock, 
in  order  to  obtain  Hocks  and  herds  for  themselves, 
most  of  them  having  selected  lands.  As  far  as 
my  jHTSonal  observation  went,  in  the  part  of  the 
coimtry  where  the  missionaries  reside,  there  are 
very  few  Indians  to  engage  their  attetitiou  ;  and 
they  seemed  more  oceujiied  with  the  settlement 
of  the  country  ami  in  agricultural  pursuits  than 
missionary  luiH)rs. 

When  there,  I  made  ])arlieular  inquiries  wheth- 
er laws  were  necessary  for  their  prtdcetion,  and  I 
feel  fully  satistied  that  they  recpiire  iioiu!  at  i)resenl, 
besides  the  moral  code  it  is  their  duty  toiiU'uleate. 

The  C'atholio  iiortion  of  the  settlement,  who 
fonn  a  largo  majority,  arc  kept  under  good  con- 
trol by  their  priest,  who  is  disposed  to  act  in  mii. 
son  with  the  other  missionaries  in  the  pro])er  pun- 
ishment of  all  bad  conduct. 

I  cannot  close  this  report  without  doing  justice 
to  the  officers  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  scr. 
vice  for  their  kind  and  gentlemanly  treatment  to 
us  while  in  tlic  Territory,  and  Ix^aring  testimony 
that,  during  all  my  intercourse,  and  in  their  deal, 
ings  with  others,  they  seemed  to  be  guided  by  but 
one  nilc  of  conduct  Iiigldy  creditable  to  them,  not 
only  as  businessmen,  but  gentlemen. 

They  afforded  us  every  assistance  that  was  in 
their  [siwer  lioth  in  supplies  and  in  means  to  nc 
complish  our  duties ;  there  are  many  persons  in 
the  country  whn  bear  testimony  to  the  aid  and 
kindness  rendered  them  in  their  outset ;  and  of 
their  hospitality  it  is  needless  to  speak,  for  it  has 
become  proverbial. 

To  conclude,  few  |iortions  of  the  globe,  in  my 
opinion,  arc;  to  be  found  so  rich  in  soil,  so  diver. 
sified  in  surface,  or  so  capable  of  being  rendered 
the  happy  abode  of  an  industrious  ami  civilized 
eomnK.nity.  For  beauty  of  scenery  and  salu. 
brity  of  climate,  it  is  :ot  suri)as»ed.  It  is  pccu. 
liarly  adapted  for  an  agricultural  and  pastoral 
people,  and  no  portion  of  the  world  beyond  the 
tropics  can  be  found  that  will  yield  so  readily 
with  moderate  labor,  to  the  icanti  of  mini. 


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